As soon as we landed, a trade was set on foot for hogs and potatoes,

which the people of the island gave us in exchange for nails and pieces

of iron, formed into something like chisels. We met with no obstruction

in watering; on the contrary, the natives assisted our men in rolling

the casks to and from the pool; and readily performed whatever we

required. Every thing thus going on to my satisfaction, and considering

my presence on the spot as unnecessary, I left the command to Mr.

Williamson, who had landed with me, and made an excursion into the

country, up the valley, accompanied by Mr. Anderson and Mr. Webber; the

former of whom was as well qualified to describe with the pen, as the

latter was to represent with his pencil, every thing we might meet with

worthy of observation. A numerous train of natives followed us; and one

of them, whom I had distinguished for his activity in keeping the rest

in order, I made choice of as our guide. This man, from time to time,

proclaimed our approach; and every one whom we met fell prostrate upon

the ground, and remained in that position till we had passed. This, as I

afterward understood, is the mode of paying their respect to their own

great chiefs. As we ranged down the coast from the east, in the ships,

we had observed at every village one or more elevated white objects,

like pyramids or rather obelisks; and one of these, which I guessed to

be at least fifty feet high, was very conspicuous from the ship’s

anchoring station, and seemed to be at no great distance up this valley.

To have a nearer inspection of it, was the principal object of my walk.

Our guide perfectly understood that we wished to be conducted to it. But

it happened to be so placed that we could not get at it, being separated

from us by the pool of water. However, there being another of the same

kind within our reach, about half a mile off, upon our side of the

valley, we set out to visit that. The moment we got to it, we saw that

it stood in a burying-ground, or _morai_; the resemblance of which, in

many respects, to those we were so well acquainted with at other islands

in this ocean, and particularly Otaheite, could not but strike us; and

we also soon found that the several parts that compose it, were called

by the same names. It was an oblong space, of considerable extent,

surrounded by a wall of stone, about four feet high. The space inclosed

was loosely paved with smaller stones; and at one end of it stood what I

call the pyramid, but, in the language of the island, is named

_henananoo_; which appeared evidently to be an exact model of the larger

one, observed by us from the ships. It was about four feet square at the

base, and about twenty feet high. The four sides were composed of small

poles interwoven with twigs and branches, thus forming an indifferent

wicker-work, hollow or open within, from bottom to top. It seemed to be

rather in a ruinous state; but there were sufficient remaining marks to

show that it had originally been covered with a thin, light, grey cloth;

which these people, it should seem, consecrate to religious purposes; as

we could see a good deal of it hanging in different parts of the

_morai_; and some of it had been forced upon me when I first landed. On

each side of the pyramid were long pieces of wicker-work, called

_hereanee_, in the same ruinous condition; with two slender poles,

inclining to each other, at one corner, where some plantains were laid

upon a board, fixed at the height of five or six feet. This they called

_herairemy_; and informed us that the fruit was an offering to their

god, which makes it agree exactly with the _whatta_ of Otaheite. Before

the _henananoo_ were a few pieces of wood, carved into something like

human figures, which, with a stone near two feet high, covered with

pieces of cloth called _hoho_, and consecrated to _Tongarooa_, who is

the god of these people, still more and more reminded us of what we used

to meet with in the _morais_ of the islands we had lately left.[23]

Adjoining to these, on the outside of the _morai_, was a small shed, no

bigger than a dog-kennel, which they called _hareepahoo_; and before it

was a grave, where, as we were told, the remains of a woman lay.

On the farther side of the area of the _morai_, stood a house or shed

about forty feet long, ten broad in the middle, each end being narrower,

and about ten feet high. This, which though much longer, was lower than

their common dwelling-places, we were informed, was called _hemanaa_.

The entrance into it was at the middle of the side, which was in the

_morai_. On the farther side of this house, opposite the entrance, stood

two wooden images cut out of one piece, with pedestals, in all about

three feet high; neither very indifferently designed nor executed. These

were said to be _Eatooa no Veheina_, or representations of goddesses. On

the head of one of them was a carved helmet, not unlike those worn by

the ancient warriors; and on that of the other, a cylindrical cap,

resembling the head-dress at Otaheite, called _tomou_; and both of them

had pieces of cloth tied about the loins, and hanging a considerable way

down. At the side of each was also a piece of carved wood with bits of

the cloth hung on them in the same manner; and between or before the

pedestals lay a quantity of fern in a heap. It was obvious that this had

been deposited there piece by piece, and at different times; for there

was of it, in all states, from what was quite decayed to what was still

fresh and green.

In the middle of the house, and before the two images, was an oblong

space, inclosed by a low edging of stone, and covered with shreds of the

cloth so often mentioned. This, on enquiry, we found was the grave of

seven chiefs, whose names were enumerated, and the place was called

_Heneene_. We had met already with so many striking instances of

resemblance between the burying-place we were now visiting and those of

islands we had lately come from in the South Pacific, that we had little

doubt in our minds that the resemblance existed also in the ceremonies

practised here, and particularly in the horrid one of offering human

sacrifices. Our suspicions were too soon confirmed, by direct evidence.

For, on coming out of the house, just on one side of the entrance, we

saw a small square place, and another still less near it; and on asking

what these were? our guide immediately informed us, that in the one was

buried a man who had been sacrificed; a _Taata_ (_Tanata_ or _Tangata_,

in this country) _taboo_ (_tafoo_, as here pronounced); and in the other

a hog, which had also been made an offering to the divinity. At a little

distance from these, near the middle of the _morai_, were three more of

these square inclosed places, with two pieces of carved wood at each,

and upon them a heap of fern. These, we were told, were the graves of

three chiefs; and before them was an oblong inclosed space, to which our

conductor also gave the name of _Tangata-taboo_; telling us, so

explicitly, that we could not mistake his meaning, that three human

sacrifices had been buried there; that is, one at the funeral of each

chief. It was with most sincere concern, that I could trace on such

undoubted evidence, the prevalence of these bloody rites throughout this

immense ocean, amongst people disjoined by such a distance, and even

ignorant of each other’s existence, though so strongly marked as

originally of the same nation. It was no small addition to this concern

to reflect that every appearance led us to believe that the barbarous

practice was very general here. The island seemed to abound with such

places of sacrifice as this which we were now visiting, and which

appeared to be one of the most inconsiderable of them; being far less

conspicuous than several others which we had seen as we sailed along the

coast, and particularly than that on the opposite side of the water in

this valley; the white _henananoo_, or pyramid, of which we were now

almost sure, derived its colour only from pieces of the consecrated

cloth laid over it. In several parts within the inclosure of this

burying-ground, were planted trees of the _cordia sebestina_, some of

the _morinda citrifolia_, and several plants of the _etee_, or _jejee_

of Tongataboo, with the leaves of which the _hemanaa_ was thatched; and

as I observed that this plant was not made use of in thatching their

dwelling-houses, probably it is reserved entirely for religious

purposes.

Our road to and from the _morai_, which I have described, lay through

the plantations. The greatest part of the ground was quite flat, with

ditches full of water intersecting different parts, and roads that

seemed artificially raised to some height. The interspaces were, in

general, planted with _taro_, which grows here with great strength, as

the fields are sunk below the common level, so as to contain the water

necessary to nourish the roots. This water probably comes from the same

source, which supplies the large pool from which we filled our casks. On

the drier spaces were several spots where the cloth-mulberry was planted

in regular rows; also growing vigorously, and kept very clean. The

cocoa-trees were not in so thriving a state, and were all low; but the

plantain-trees made a better appearance, though they were not large. In

general the trees round this village, and which were seen at many of

those which we passed before we anchored, are the _cordia sebestina_;

but of a more diminutive size than the product of the southern isles.

The greatest part of the village stands near the beach, and consists of

above sixty houses there; but, perhaps, about forty more stand scattered

about, farther up the country, toward the burying-place.

After we had examined very carefully every thing that was to be seen

about the _morai_, and Mr. Webber had taken drawings of it, and of the

adjoining country, we returned by a different route. I found a great

crowd assembled at the beach; and a brisk trade for pigs, fowls, and

roots going on there, with the greatest good order; though I did not

observe any particular person who took the lead amongst the rest of his

countrymen. At noon, I went on board to dinner, and then sent Mr. King

to command the party on shore. He was to have gone upon that service in

the morning, but was then detained in the ship to make lunar

observations. In the afternoon I landed again, accompanied by Captain

Clerke, with a view to make another excursion up the country. But before

this could be put in execution, the day was too far spent, so that I

laid aside my intention for the present, and it so happened that I had

not another opportunity. At sun-set, I brought every body on board,

having procured in the course of the day, nine tons of water; and, by

exchanges, chiefly for nails and pieces of iron, about seventy or eighty

pigs, a few fowls, a quantity of potatoes, and a few plantains and

_taro_ roots. These people merited our best commendations in this

commercial intercourse, never once attempting to cheat us, either ashore

or alongside the ships. Some of them, indeed, as already mentioned, at

first betrayed a thievish disposition, or rather, they thought that they

had a right to every thing they could lay their hands upon; but they

soon laid aside a conduct which, we convinced them, they could not

persevere in with impunity.

Amongst the articles which they brought to barter this day, we could not

help taking notice of a particular sort of cloak and cap, which, even in

countries where dress is more particularly attended to, might be

reckoned elegant. The first are nearly of the size and shape of the

short cloaks worn by the women of England, and by the men in Spain,

reaching to the middle of the back, and tied loosely before. The ground

of them is a net-work upon which the most beautiful red and yellow

feathers are so closely fixed that the surface might be compared to the

thickest and richest velvet, which they resemble, both as to the feel

and the glossy appearance. The manner of varying the mixture is very

different; some having triangular spaces of red and yellow, alternately;

others, a kind of crescent; and some that were entirely red, had a broad

yellow border, which made them appear, at some distance, exactly like a

scarlet cloak edged with gold lace. The brilliant colours of the

feathers, in those that happened to be new, added not a little to their

fine appearance; and we found that they were in high estimation with

their owners; for they would not at first part with one of them for any

thing that we offered, asking no less a price than a musket. However,

some were afterward purchased for very large nails. Such of them as were

of the best sort were scarce; and it should seem that they are only used

on the occasion of some particular ceremony or diversion; for the people

who had them always made some gesticulations which we had seen used

before by those who sung.

The cap is made almost exactly like a helmet, with the middle part, or

crest, sometimes of a hand’s breadth; and it sits very close upon the

head, having notches to admit the ears. It is a frame of twigs and

osiers, covered with a net-work, into which are wrought feathers, in the

same manner as upon the cloaks, though rather closer and less

diversified, the greater part being red, with some black, yellow, or

green stripes on the sides, following the curve direction of the crest.

These, probably, complete the dress, with the cloaks, for the natives

sometimes appeared in both together.

We were at a loss to guess from whence they could get such a quantity of

these beautiful feathers; but were soon informed as to one sort; for

they afterward brought great numbers of skins of small red birds for

sale, which were often tied up in bunches of twenty or more, or had a

small wooden skewer run through their nostrils. At the first, those that

were bought consisted only of the skin from behind the wings forward;

but we afterward got many with the hind part, including the tail and

feet. The first, however, struck us at once with the origin of the fable

formerly adopted, of the birds of paradise wanting legs, and

sufficiently explained that circumstance. Probably the people of the

islands east of the Moluccas, from whence the skins of the birds of

paradise are brought, cut off their feet for the very reason assigned by

the people of Atooi for the like practice, which was, that they hereby

can preserve them with greater ease, without losing any part which they

reckon valuable. The red-bird of our island was judged by Mr. Anderson

to be a species of _merops_, about the size of a sparrow, of a beautiful

scarlet colour, with a black tail and wings, and an arched bill twice

the length of the head, which, with the feet, was also of a reddish

colour. The contents of the heads were taken out, as in the birds of

paradise; but it did not appear that they used any other method to

preserve them than by simple drying, for the skins, though moist, had

neither a taste nor smell that could give room to suspect the use of

anti-putrescent substances.[24]

In the night and all the morning of the 22d, it rained almost

continually. The wind was at S. E., S. S. E., and S., which brought in a

short chopping sea; and as there were breakers little more than two

cables’ length from the stern of our ship, her situation was none of the

safest. The surf broke so high against the shore that we could not land

in our boats; but the day was not wholly lost; for the natives ventured

in their canoes to bring off to the ships hogs and roots, which they

bartered as before. One of our visitors on this occasion, who offered

some fish-hooks to sale, was observed to have a very small parcel to the

string of one of them, which he separated with great care, and reserved

for himself, when he parted with the hook. Being asked what it was? He

pointed to his belly and spoke something of its being dead, at the same

time saying it was bad, as if he did not wish to answer any more

questions about it. On seeing him so anxious to conceal the contents of

this parcel, he was requested to open it, which he did with great

reluctance, and some difficulty, as it was wrapped up in many folds of

cloth. We found that it contained a thin bit of flesh about two inches

long, which, to appearance, had been dried, but was now wet with salt

water. It struck us that it might be human flesh, and that these people

might, perhaps, eat their enemies, as we knew that this was the practice

of some of the natives of the South Sea islands. The question being put

to the person who produced it, he answered, that the flesh was part of a

man. Another of his countrymen, who stood by him, was then asked whether

it was their custom to eat those killed in battle? and he immediately

answered in the affirmative.

There were some intervals of fair weather in the afternoon; and the wind

then inclined to the east and north-east; but, in the evening, it veered

back again to the south south-east, and the rain also returned, and

continued all night. Very luckily, it was not attended with much wind.

We had, however, prepared for the worst, by dropping the small bower

anchor; and striking our top-gallant-yards.

At seven o’clock the next morning, a breeze of wind springing up at

north-east, I took up the anchors with a view of removing the ship

farther out. The moment that the last anchor was up, the wind veered to

the east, which made it necessary to set all the sail we could, in order

to clear the shore: so that, before we had tolerable sea-room, we were

driven some distance to leeward. We made a stretch off, with a view to

regain the road; but having very little wind, and a strong current

against us, I found that this was not to be effected, I therefore

dispatched Messrs. King and Williamson ashore, with three boats, for

water, and to trade for refreshments. At the same time I sent an order

to Captain Clerke to put to sea after me, if he should see that I could

not recover the road. Being in hopes of finding one, or perhaps a

harbour, at the west end of the island, I was the less anxious about

getting back to my former station. But as I had sent the boats thither,

we kept to windward as much as possible; notwithstanding which, at noon,

we were three leagues to leeward. As we drew near the west end of the

island, we found the coast to round gradually to the north-east, without

forming a creek, or cove, to shelter a vessel from the force of the

swell, which rolled in from the north, and broke upon the shore in a

prodigious surf; so that all hopes of finding a harbour here vanished.

Several canoes came off in the morning, and followed us as we stood out

to sea, bartering their roots and other articles. Being very averse to

believe these people to be cannibals, notwithstanding the suspicious

circumstance which had happened the day before, we took occasion now to

make some more inquiries about this. A small wooden instrument, beset

with shark’s teeth, had been purchased; and from its resemblance to the

saw or knife used by the New Zealanders, to dissect the bodies of their

enemies, it was suspected to have the same use here. One of the natives

being asked about this, immediately gave the name of the instrument, and

told us that it was used to cut out the fleshy part of the belly, when

any person was killed. This explained and confirmed the circumstance

above-mentioned, of the person pointing to his belly. The man, however,

from whom we had this information, being asked, if his countrymen eat

the part thus cut out? denied it strongly; but, upon the question being

repeated, shewed some degree of fear, and swam to his canoe. Just before

he reached it, he made signs, as he had done before, expressive of the

use of the instrument. And an old man, who sat foremost in the canoe,

being then asked, whether they eat the flesh? answered in the

affirmative, and laughed, seemingly at the simplicity of such a

question. He affirmed the fact, on being asked again; and also said it

was excellent food, or, as he expressed it, “savoury eating.”

At seven o’clock in the evening, the boats returned with the two tons of

water, a few hogs, a quantity of plantains, and some roots. Mr. King

informed me, that a great number of the inhabitants were at the watering

or landing-place. He supposed that they had come from all parts of the

island. They had brought with them a great many fine fat hogs to barter;

but my people had not commodities with them equal to the purchase. This,

however, was no great loss; for we had already got as many on board as

we could well manage for immediate use; and, wanting the materials, we

could not have salted them. Mr. King also told me, that a great deal of

rain had fallen ashore, whereas, out at sea, we had only a few showers;

and that the surf had run so high, that it was with great difficulty our

men landed, and got back into the boats.

We had light airs and calms, by turns, with showers of rain, all night;

and at day-break, in the morning of the 24th, we found, that the

currents had carried the ship to the north-west and north; so that the

west end of the island, upon which we had been, called Atooi by the

natives, bore east, one league distant; another island, called Oreehoua,

west by south; and the high land of a third island, called Oneeheow,

from south-west by west, to west south-west. Soon after, a breeze sprung

up at north; and, as I expected that this would bring the Discovery to

sea, I steered for Oneeheow, in order to take a nearer view of it, and

to anchor there, if I should find a convenient place. I continued to

steer for it, till past eleven o’clock, at which time we were about two

leagues from it. But not seeing the Discovery, and being doubtful

whether they could see us, I was fearful lest some ill consequence might

attend our separating so far, I therefore gave up the design of visiting

Oneeheow for the present, and stood back to Atooi, with an intent to

anchor again in the road, to complete our water. At two o’clock in the

afternoon, the northerly wind died away, and was succeeded by variable

light airs and calms, that continued till eleven at night, with which we

stretched to the south-east, till day-break in the morning of the 25th,

when we tacked and stood in for Atooi road, which bore about north from

us; and, soon after, we were joined by the Discovery.

We fetched in with the land about two leagues to leeward of the road,

which, though so near, we never could recover; for what we gained at one

time, we lost at another; so that, by the morning of the 29th, the

currents had carried us westward, within three leagues of Oneeheow.

Being tired with plying so unsuccessfully, I gave up all thoughts of

getting back to Atooi, and came to the resolution of trying, whether we

could not procure what we wanted at the other island, which was within

our reach. With this view, I sent the Master in a boat to sound the

coast; to look out for a landing-place; and, if he should find one, to

examine if fresh water could be conveniently got in its neighbourhood.

To give him time to execute his commission, we followed, under an easy

sail, with the ships. As soon as we were abreast, or to the westward of

the south point of Oneeheow, we found thirty, twenty-five, and twenty

fathoms water, over a bottom of coral sand, a mile from the shore.

At ten o’clock the Master returned, and reported that he had landed in

one place, but could find no fresh water; and that there was anchorage

all along the coast. Seeing a village a little farther to leeward; and

some of the islanders, who had come off to the ships, informing us, that

fresh water might be got there, I ran down, and came to an anchor before

it, in twenty-six fathoms water, about three quarters of a mile from the

shore. The south-east point of the island bore S., 65° E., three miles

distant; the other extreme of the island bore north by east, about two

or three miles distant; a peaked hill, inland, N. E., a quarter E.; and

another island, called Tahoora, which was discovered the preceding

evening, bore S., 61° W., distant seven leagues.

Six or seven canoes had come off to us, before we anchored, bringing

some small pigs and potatoes, and a good many yams and mats. The people

in them resembled those of Atooi; and seemed to be equally well

acquainted with the use of iron, which they asked for also by the names

of _hamaite_ and _toe_; parting readily with all their commodities for

pieces of this precious metal. Several more canoes soon reached the

ships, after they had anchored; but the natives in these seemed to have

no other object, than to pay us a formal visit. Many of them came

readily on board, crouching down upon the deck, and not quitting that

humble posture till they were desired to get up. They had brought

several females with them, who remained alongside in the canoes,

behaving with far less modesty than their countrywomen of Atooi; and, at

times, all joining in a song, not remarkable for its melody, though

performed in very exact concert, by beating time upon their breasts with

their hands. The men who had come on board did not stay long; and before

they departed, some of them requested our permission to lay down, on the

deck, locks of their hair.

These visitors furnished us with an opportunity of agitating again, this

day, the curious inquiry whether they were cannibals; and the subject

did not take its rise from any question of ours, but from a circumstance

that seemed to remove all ambiguity. One of the islanders, who wanted to

get in at the gun-room port, was refused; and, at the same time, asked,

whether, if he should come in, we would kill and eat him? accompanying

this question with signs so expressive that there could be no doubt

about his meaning. This gave a proper opening to retort the question as

to this practice; and a person behind the other, in the canoe, who paid

great attention to what was passing, immediately answered, that if we

were killed on shore, they would certainly eat us. He spoke with so

little emotion, that it appeared plainly to be his meaning, that they

would not destroy us for that purpose; but that their eating us would be

the consequence of our being at enmity with them. I have availed myself

of Mr. Anderson’s collections for the decision of this matter; and am

sorry to say, that I cannot see the least reason to hesitate in

pronouncing it to be certain, that the horrid banquet of human flesh is

as much relished here, amidst plenty, as it is in New Zealand.

In the afternoon I sent lieutenant Gore, with three armed boats, to look

for the most convenient landing-place; and, when on shore, to search for

fresh water. In the evening he returned, having landed at the village

above mentioned, and acquainted me, that he had been conducted to a well

half a mile up the country; but, by his account, the quantity of water

it contained was too inconsiderable for our purpose, and the road

leading to it exceedingly bad.

On the 30th I sent Mr. Gore ashore again, with a guard of marines, and a

party to trade with the natives for refreshments. I intended to have

followed soon after, and went from the ship with that design. But the

surf had increased so much, by this time, that I was fearful, if I got

ashore, I should not be able to get off again. This really happened to

our people who had landed with Mr. Gore, the communication between them

and the ships, by our own boats, being soon stopped. In the evening they

made a signal for the boats, which were sent accordingly; and, not long

after, they returned with a few yams and some salt. A tolerable quantity

of both had been procured in the course of the day; but the surf was so

great, that the greatest part of both these articles had been lost in

conveying them to the boats. The officer and twenty men, deterred by the

danger of coming off, were left ashore all night; and by this

unfortunate circumstance, the very thing happened, which, as I have

already mentioned, I wished so heartily to prevent, and vainly imagined

I had effectually guarded against. The violence of the surf, which our

own boats could not act against, did not hinder the natives from coming

off to the ships in their canoes. They brought refreshments with them,

which were purchased in exchange for nails, and pieces of iron hoops;

and I distributed a good many pieces of ribbon, and some buttons, as

bracelets, amongst the women in the canoes. One of the men had the

figure of a lizard punctured upon his breast, and upon those of others

were the figures of men badly imitated. These visitors informed us, that

there was no chief, or _Hairee_, of this island; but that it was subject

to Teneooneoo, a chief of Atooi; which island, they said, was not

governed by a single chief, but that there were many to whom they paid

the honour of _moe_, or prostration; and among others, they named

Otaeaio and Terarotoa. Amongst other things which these people now

brought off; was a small drum, almost like those of Otaheite.

About ten or eleven o’clock at night, the wind veered to the south, and

the sky seemed to forbode a storm. With such appearances, thinking that

we were rather too near the shore, I ordered the anchors to be taken up,

and having carried the ships into forty-two fathoms, came to again in

that safer station. The precaution, however, proved to be unnecessary;

for the wind, soon after, veered to N. N. E., from which quarter it blew

a fresh gale, with squalls, attended with very heavy showers of rain.

This weather continued all the next day; and the sea ran so high that we

had no manner of communication with our party on shore; and even the

natives themselves durst not venture out to the ships in their canoes.

In the evening I sent the master in a boat up to the south-east head, or

point of the island, to try if he could land under it. He returned with

a favourable report; but it was too late, now, to send for our party

till the next morning; and thus they had another night to improve their

intercourse with the natives.

Encouraged by the master’s report, I sent a boat to the south-east

point, as soon as day-light returned, with an order to Mr. Gore, that if

he could not embark his people from the spot where they now were, to

march them up to the point. As the boat could not get to the beach, one

of the crew swam ashore, and carried the order. On the return of the

boat, I went myself with the pinnace and launch up to the point, to

bring the party on board; taking with me a ram-goat and two ewes, a boar

and sow pig of the English breed; and the seeds of melons, pumpkins, and

onions; being very desirous of benefiting these poor people, by

furnishing them with some additional articles of food. I landed with the

greatest ease, under the west side of the point, and found my party

already there, with some of the natives in company. To one of them, whom

Mr. Gore had observed assuming some command over the rest, I gave the

goats, pigs, and seeds. I should have left these well intended presents

at Atooi, had we not been so unexpectedly driven from it.

While the people were engaged in filling four water-casks, from a small

stream occasioned by the late rain, I walked a little way up the

country, attended by the man above-mentioned, and followed by two others

carrying the two pigs. As soon as we got upon a rising ground, I stopped

to look round me; and observed a woman, on the other side of the valley,

where I landed, calling to her countryman who attended me. Upon this,

the chief began to mutter something which I supposed was a prayer; and

the two men, who carried the pigs, continued to walk round me all the

time, making, at least, a dozen circuits before the other had finished

his oraison. This ceremony being performed, we proceeded; and,

presently, met people coming from all parts, who, on being called to by

the attendants, threw themselves prostrate on their faces, till I was

out of sight. The ground, through which I passed, was in a state of

nature, very stony, and the soil seemed poor. It was, however, covered

with shrubs and plants, some of which perfumed the air; with a more

delicious fragrancy, than I had met at any other of the islands visited

by us in this ocean. Our people, who had been obliged to remain so long

on shore, gave me the same account of those parts of the island which

they had traversed. They met with several salt ponds, some of which had

a little water remaining, but others had none; and the salt that was

left in them was so thin, that no great quantity could have been

procured. There was no appearance of any running stream; and though they

found some small wells, in which the fresh water was tolerably good, it

seemed scarce. The habitations of the natives were thinly scattered

about; and, it was supposed, that there could not be more than five

hundred people upon the island, as the greatest part were seen at the

marketing-place of our party, and few found about the houses by those

who walked up the country. They had an opportunity of observing the

method of living amongst the natives, and it appeared to be decent and

cleanly. They did not, however, see any instance of the men and women

eating together; and the latter seemed generally associated in companies

by themselves. It was found, that they burnt here the oily nuts of the

_doee dooe_ for lights in the night, as at Otaheite; and that they baked

their hogs in ovens; but, contrary to the practice of the Society and

Friendly Islands, split their carcases through their whole length. They

met with a positive proof of the existence of the _taboo_ (or as they

pronounce it, the _tafoo_), for one woman fed another who was under that

interdiction. They also observed some other mysterious ceremonies; one

of which was performed by a woman, who took a small pig, and threw it

into the surf, till it was drowned, and then tied up a bundle of wood,

which she also disposed of in the same manner. The same woman, at

another time, beat with a stick upon a man’s shoulders, who sat down for

that purpose. A particular veneration seemed to be paid here to owls,

which they have very tame; and it was observed to be a pretty general

practice amongst them, to pull out one of their [25]teeth; for which old

custom, when asked the reason, the only answer that could be got was,

that it was _teeha_, which was also the reason assigned for another of

their practices, the giving a lock of their hair.

After the water-casks had been filled and conveyed into the boat, and we

had purchased from the natives a few roots, a little salt, and some

salted fish, I returned on board with all the people, intending to visit

the island the next day. But about seven o’clock in the evening the

anchor of the Resolution started, and she drove off the bank. As we had

a whole cable out, it was some time before the anchor was at the bows;

and then we had the launch to hoist up alongside, before we could make

sail. By this unlucky accident, we found ourselves, at day-break next

morning, three leagues to the leeward of our last station; and

foreseeing that it would require more time to recover it than I chose to

spend, I made the signal for the Discovery to weigh and join us. This

was done about noon; and we immediately stood away to the northward, in

prosecution of our voyage. Thus, after spending more time about these

islands, than was necessary to have answered all our purposes, we were

obliged to leave them before we had completed our water, and got from

them such a quantity of refreshments as their inhabitants were both able

and willing to have supplied us with. But, as it was, our ship procured

from them provisions, sufficient for three weeks at least; and Captain

Clerke, more fortunate than us, got of their vegetable productions, a

supply that lasted his people upward of two months. The observations I

was enabled to make, combined with those of Mr. Anderson, who was a very

useful assistant on all such occasions, will furnish materials for the

next chapter.

CHAP. XII.

THE SITUATION OF THE ISLANDS NOW DISCOVERED.—THEIR NAMES.—CALLED THE

SANDWICH ISLANDS.—ATOOI DESCRIBED.—THE SOIL.—CLIMATE.—VEGETABLE

PRODUCTIONS.—BIRDS.—FISH.—DOMESTIC ANIMALS.—PERSONS OF THE

INHABITANTS.—THEIR DISPOSITION.—DRESS.—ORNAMENTS.—HABITATIONS.—FOOD.—

COOKERY.—AMUSEMENTS.—MANUFACTURES.—WORKING-TOOLS—KNOWLEDGE OF IRON

ACCOUNTED FOR.—CANOES.—AGRICULTURE.—ACCOUNT OF ONE OF THEIR CHIEFS.—

WEAPONS.—CUSTOMS AGREEING WITH THOSE OF TONGATABOO, AND OTAHEITE.—

THEIR LANGUAGE THE SAME.—EXTENT OF THIS NATION THROUGHOUT THE PACIFIC

OCEAN.—REFLECTIONS ON THE USEFUL SITUATION OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

It is worthy of observation, that the islands in the Pacific Ocean,

which our late voyages have added to the geography of the globe, have

been generally found lying in groups or clusters; the single

intermediate islands, as yet discovered, being few in proportion to the

others; though, probably, there are many more of them still unknown,

which serve as steps between the several clusters. Of what number this

newly-discovered Archipelago consists, must be left for future

investigation. We saw five of them, whose names, as given to us by the

natives, are Woahoo, Atooi, Oneeheow, Oreehoua, and Tahoora. The last is

a small elevated island, lying four or five leagues from the south-east

point of Oneeheow, in the direction of south, 69° W. We were told, that

it abounds with birds, which are its only inhabitants. We also got some

information of the existence of a low, uninhabited island, in the

neighbourhood, whose name is Tammata pappa. Besides these six, which we

can distinguish by their names, it appeared, that the inhabitants of

those with whom we had intercourse, were acquainted with some other

islands both to the eastward and westward. I named the whole group the

Sandwich Islands, in honour of the Earl of Sandwich. Those that I saw,

are situated between the latitude of 21° 30ʹ, and 22° 15ʹ N., and

between the longitude of 199° 20ʹ, and 201° 30ʹ East.

Of Woahoo, the most easterly of these islands seen by us, which lies in

the latitude of 21° 36ʹ, we could get no other intelligence, but that it

is high land, and is inhabited.

We had opportunities of knowing some particulars about Oneeheow, which

have been mentioned already. It lies several leagues to the westward of

our anchoring place at Atooi; and is not above fifteen leagues in

circuit. Its chief vegetable produce is yams; if we may judge from what

was brought to us by the natives. They have salt, which they call

_patai_; and is produced in salt ponds. With it they cure both fish and

pork; and some salt fish, which we got from them, kept very well, and

were found to be very good. This island is mostly low land, except the

part facing Atooi, which rises directly from the sea to a good height;

as does also the south-east point of it, which terminates in a round

hill. It was on the west side of this point where our ships anchored.

Of Oreehoua we know nothing more than that it is a small elevated

island, lying close to the north side of Oneeheow.

Atooi, which is the largest, being the principal scene of our

operations, I shall now proceed to lay before my readers what

information I was able to collect about it, either from actual

observation, while on shore, or from conversation with its inhabitants,

who were perpetually on board the ships while we lay at anchor; and who,

in general, could be tolerably well understood, by those of us who had

acquired an acquaintance with the dialects of the South Pacific islands.

It is, however, to be regretted, that we should have been obliged, so

soon, to leave a place which, as far as our opportunities of knowing

reached, seemed to be highly worthy of a more accurate examination.

Atooi, from what we saw of it, is, at least, ten leagues in length from

east to west; from whence its circuit may nearly be guessed, though it

appears to be much broader at the east than at the west point, if we may

judge from the double range of hills which appeared there. The road, or

anchoring-place, which we occupied, is on the south-west side of the

island, about six miles from the west end, before a village which has

the name of Wymoa. As far as we sounded, we found that the bank has a

fine grey sand at the bottom, and is free from rocks; except a little to

the eastward of the village, where there spits out a shoal, on which are

some rocks and breakers; but they are not far from shore. This road

would be entirely sheltered from the trade wind, if the height of the

land, over which it blows, did not alter its direction, and make it

follow that of the coast; so that it blows at north-east, on one side of

the island, and at east south-east, or south-east, on the other, falling

obliquely upon the shore. Thus the road, though situated on the lee-side

of the island, is a little exposed to the trade-wind; but

notwithstanding this defect, is far from being a bad station, and much

superior to those which necessity obliges ships daily to use, in regions

where the winds are both more variable and more boisterous; as at

Teneriffe, Madeira, the Azores, and elsewhere. The landing too is more

easy than at most of those places; and, unless in very bad weather,

always practicable. The water to be got in the neighbourhood is

excellent, and easy to be conveyed to the boats. But no wood can be cut

at any distance, convenient enough to bring it from, unless the natives

could be prevailed upon to part with the few _etooa_ trees (for so they

call the _cordia sebastina_), that grow about their villages, or a sort

called _dooe dooe_, that grow farther up the country.

[Illustration: _Inland View in Atooi._]

The land, as to its general appearance, does not, in the least, resemble

any of the islands we have hitherto visited within the tropic, on the

south side of the _equator_; if we except its hills near the centre,

which are high, but slope gently to the sea, or lower lands. Though it

be destitute of the delightful borders of Otaheite, and of the luxuriant

plains of Tongataboo, covered with trees, which at once afford a

friendly shelter from the scorching sun, and an enchanting prospect to

the eye, and food for the natives, which may be truly said to drop from

the trees into their mouths, without the laborious task of rearing;

though, I say, Atooi be destitute of these advantages, its possessing a

greater quantity of gently-rising land, renders it, in some measure,

superior to the above favourite islands, as being more capable of

improvement.

The height of the land within, the quantity of clouds which we saw,

during the whole time we staid, hanging over it, and frequently on the

other parts, seems to put it beyond all doubt, that there is a

sufficient supply of water; and that there are some running streams

which we did not see, especially in the deep valleys, at the entrance of

which the villages commonly stand. From the wooded part to the sea, the

ground is covered with an excellent sort of grass, about two feet high,

which grows sometimes in tufts, and, though not very thick at the place

where we were, seemed capable of being converted into plentiful crops of

fine hay. But not even a shrub grows naturally on this extensive space.

In the break, or narrow valley, through which we had our road to the

_morai_, the soil is of a brownish black colour, somewhat loose; but as

we advanced upon the high ground, it changed to a reddish brown, more

stiff and clayey, though, at this time, brittle from its dryness. It is

most probably the same all over the cultivated parts; for what adhered

to most of the potatoes bought by us, which, no doubt, came from very

different spots, was of this sort. Its quality, however, may be better

understood from its products than from its appearance. For the vale, or

moist ground, produces _taro_, of a much larger size than any we had

ever seen; and the higher ground furnishes sweet potatoes, that often

weigh ten, and sometimes twelve or fourteen pounds; very few being under

two or three.

The temperature of the climate may be easily guessed from the situation

of the island. Were we to judge of it from our experience, it might be

said to be very variable; for, according to the generally received

opinion, it was now the season of the year, when the weather is supposed

to be most settled, the sun being at its greatest annual distance. The

heat was, at this time, very moderate; and few of those inconveniences

which many tropical countries are subject to, either from heat or

moisture, seem to be experienced here, as the habitations of the natives

are quite close; and they salt both fish and pork, which keep well,

contrary to what has usually been observed to be the case, when this

operation is attempted in hot countries. Neither did we find any dews of

consequence, which may, in some measure, be accounted for, by the lower

part of the country being destitute of trees.

The rock that forms the sides of the valley, and which seems to be the

same with that seen by us at different parts of the coast, is a greyish

black, ponderous stone; but honey-combed, with some very minute shining

particles, and some spots of a rusty colour interspersed. The last gives

it often a reddish cast, when at a distance. It is of an immense depth,

but seems divided into _strata_, though nothing is interposed. For the

large pieces always broke off to a determinate thickness, without

appearing to have adhered to those below them. Other stones are probably

much more various than in the southern islands. For, during our short

stay, besides the _lapis lydius_, which seems common all over the South

Sea, we found a species of cream-coloured whetstone, sometimes

variegated with blacker or whiter veins, as marble; or in pieces, as

_brecciæ_; and common writing slate, as well as a coarser sort; but we

saw none of them in their natural state; and the natives brought some

pieces of a coarse whitish pumice-stone. We got also a brown sort of

_hæmatites_, which, from being strongly attracted by the magnet,

discovered the quantity of metal that it contained, and seems to belong

to the second species of Cronstedt, though Linnæus has placed it amongst

his _intractabilia_. But its variety could not be discovered; for what

we saw of it, as well as the slates and whetstones, was cut

artificially.

Besides the vegetable articles bought by us as refreshments, amongst

which were, at least, five or six varieties of plantains, the island

produces bread-fruit, though it seems to be scarce, as we saw only one

tree, which was large, and had some fruit upon it. There are also a few

cocoa-palms; yams, as we were told, for we saw none; the _kappe_ of the

Friendly Islands, or Virginian _arum_; the _etooa_ tree, and

sweet-smelling _gardenia_, or _cape jasmine_. We saw several trees of

the _dooe dooe_, so useful at Otaheite, as bearing the oily nuts, which

are stuck upon a kind of skewer, and burnt as candles. Our people saw

them used, in the same manner, at Oneeheow. We were not on shore at

Atooi but in the day-time, and then we saw the natives wearing these

nuts, hung on strings, round the neck. There is a species of _sida_, or

Indian mallow, somewhat altered by the climate, from what we saw at

Christmas Island; the _morinda citrifolia_, which is called _none_; a

species of _convolvulus_; the _ava_, or intoxicating pepper; and great

numbers of gourds. These last grow to a very large size, and are of a

vast variety of shapes, which probably is effected by art. Upon the dry

sand, about the village, grew a plant that we had never seen in these

seas, of the size of a common thistle, and prickly, like that; but

bearing a fine flower, almost resembling a white poppy. This, with

another small one, were the only uncommon plants, which our short

excursion gave us an opportunity of observing.

The scarlet birds, already described, which were brought for sale, were

never met with alive; but we saw a single small one, about the size of a

canary-bird, of a deep crimson colour; a large owl; two large brown

hawks, or kites; and a wild duck. The natives mentioned the names of

several other birds; amongst which we knew the _atoo_, or blueish heron;

and the _torata_, a sort of whimbrel, which are known by the same names

at Otaheite; and it is probable that there are a great many sorts,

judging by the quantity of fine yellow, green, and very small,

velvet-like, black feathers used upon the cloaks, and other ornaments,

worn by the inhabitants.

Fish, and other marine productions were, to appearance, not various; as,

besides the small mackerel, we only saw common mullets; a sort of a dead

white, or chalky colour; a small, brownish rock-fish, spotted with blue;

a turtle, which was penned up in a pond; and three or four sorts of fish

salted. The few shell-fish that we saw were chiefly converted into

ornaments, though they neither had beauty nor novelty to recommend them.

The hogs, dogs, and fowls, which were the only tame or domestic animals

that we found here, were all of the same kind that we met with at the

South Pacific islands. There were also small lizards; and some rats,

resembling those seen at every island at which we had as yet touched.

The inhabitants are of a middling stature, firmly made, with some

exceptions, neither remarkable for a beautiful shape, nor for striking

features, which rather express an openness and good-nature, than a keen,

intelligent disposition. Their visage, especially amongst the women, is

sometimes round; but others have it long; nor can we say that they are

distinguished, as a nation, by any general cast of countenance. Their

colour is nearly of a nut-brown, and it may be difficult to make a

nearer comparison, if we take in all the different hues of that colour;

but some individuals are darker. The women have been already mentioned,

as being little more delicate than the men in their formation; and I may

say that, with a very few exceptions, they have little claim to those

peculiarities that distinguish the sex in other countries. There is,

indeed, a more remarkable equality in the size, colour, and figure of

both sexes, than in most places I have visited. However, upon the whole,

they are far from being ugly, and appear to have few natural deformities

of any kind. Their skin is not very soft, nor shining; perhaps for want

of oiling, which is practised at the southern islands; but their eyes

and teeth are, in general, very tolerable. The hair, for the greatest

part, is straight, though, in some, frizzling; and though its natural

colour be commonly black, it is stained, as at the Friendly and other

islands. We saw but few instances of corpulence; and these oftener among

the women than the men; but it was chiefly amongst the latter that

personal defects were observed, though, if any of them can claim a share

of beauty, it was most conspicuous amongst the young men.

They are vigorous, active, and most expert swimmers; leaving their

canoes upon the most trifling occasion; diving under them, and swimming

to others though at a great distance. It was very common to see women,

with infants at the breast, when the surf was so high that they could

not land in the canoes, leap overboard, and without endangering their

little ones, swim to the shore, through a sea that looked dreadful.

They seem to be blest with a frank, cheerful disposition; and were I to

draw any comparisons, I should say, that they are equally free from the

fickle levity which distinguishes the natives of Otaheite, and the

sedate cast observable amongst many of those of Tongataboo. They seem to

live very sociably in their intercourse with one another; and, except

the propensity to thieving, which seems innate in most of the people we

have visited in this ocean, they were exceedingly friendly to us. And it

does their sensibility no little credit, without flattering ourselves,

that when they saw the various articles of our European manufacture,

they could not help expressing their surprise, by a mixture of joy and

concern, that seemed to apply the case, as a lesson of humility, to

themselves; and, on all occasions, they appeared deeply impressed with a

consciousness of their own inferiority; a behaviour which equally

exempts their national character from the preposterous pride of the more

polished Japanese, and of the ruder Greenlander. It was a pleasure to

observe with how much affection the women managed their infants, and how

readily the men lent their assistance to such a tender office; thus

sufficiently distinguishing themselves from those savages who esteem a

wife and child as things rather necessary than desirable, or worthy of

their notice.

From the numbers which we saw collected at every village, as we sailed

past, it may be supposed that the inhabitants of this island are pretty

numerous. Any computation that we make can be only conjectural. But that

some notion may be formed, which shall not greatly err on either side, I

should suppose that, including the straggling houses, there might be,

upon the whole island, sixty such villages, as that before which we

anchored; and that, allowing five persons to each house, there would be,

in every village, five hundred; or thirty thousand upon the island. This

number is, certainly, not exaggerated; for we had sometimes three

thousand persons, at least, upon the beach; when it could not be

supposed that above a tenth part of the inhabitants were present.

The common dress, both of the women and of the men, has been already

described. The first have often much larger pieces of cloth wrapped

round them, reaching from just below the breasts to the hams, or lower;

and several were seen with pieces thrown loosely about the shoulders,

which covered the greatest part of the body; but the children, when very

young, are quite naked. They wear nothing upon the head; but the hair,

in both sexes, is cut in different forms; and the general fashion,

especially among the women, is to have it long before and short behind.

The men often had it cut, or shaved, on each side, in such a manner that

the remaining part, in some measure, resembles the crest of their caps

or helmets, formerly described. Both sexes, however, seem very careless

about their hair, and have nothing like combs to dress it with.

Instances of wearing it, in a singular manner, were sometimes met with

among the men, who twist it into a number of separate parcels, like the

tails of a wig, each about the thickness of a finger; though the

greatest part of these, which are so long that they reach far down the

back, we observed, were artificially fixed upon the head, over their own

hair.[26]

It is remarkable that, contrary to the general practice of the islands

we had hitherto discovered in the Pacific Ocean, the people of the

Sandwich Islands have not their ears perforated, nor have they the least

idea of wearing ornaments in them. Both sexes, nevertheless, adorn

themselves with necklaces made of bunches of small black cord, like our

hat-string, often above a hundred-fold, exactly like those of Wateeoo;

only that instead of the two little balls, on the middle before, they

fix a small bit of wood, stone, or shell, about two inches long, with a

broad hook, turning forward at its lower part, well polished. They have,

likewise, necklaces of many strings of very small shells, or of the

dried flowers of the Indian mallow. And, sometimes, a small human image

of bone, about three inches long, neatly polished, is hung round the

neck. The women also wear bracelets of a single shell, pieces of black

wood, with bits of ivory interspersed, and well polished, fixed by a

string drawn very close through them; or others of hogs’ teeth, laid

parallel to each other, with the concave part outward, and the points

cut off, fastened together as the former; some of which, made only of

large boars’ tusks, are very elegant. The men, sometimes, wear plumes of

the tropic bird’s feathers, stuck in their heads; or those of cocks,

fastened round neat polished sticks, two feet long, commonly decorated,

at the lower part, with _oora_; and, for the same purpose, the skin of a

white dog’s tail is sewed over a stick, with its tuft at the end. They

also frequently wear on the head a kind of ornament, of a finger’s

thickness, or more, covered with red and yellow feathers, curiously

varied, and tied behind; and on the arm, above the elbow, a kind of

broad shell-work, grounded upon net-work.

The men are frequently punctured, though not in any particular part, as

the Otaheiteans, and those of Tongataboo. Sometimes there are a few

marks upon their hands, or arms, and near the groin; but frequently we

could observe none at all; though a few individuals had more of this

sort of ornament than we had usually seen at other places, and

ingeniously executed in a great variety of lines and figures, on the

arms and forepart of the body; on which latter some of them had the

figure of the _taame_, or breast-plate, of Otaheite, though we did not

meet with the thing itself amongst them. Contrary to the custom of the

Society and Friendly Islands, they do not slit or cut off part of the

_prepuce_; but have it universally drawn over the _glans_, and tied with

a string, as practised by some of the natives of New Zealand.

Though they seem to have adopted the mode of living in villages, there

is no appearance of defence, or fortification, near any of them; and the

houses are scattered about, without any order, either with respect to

their distances from each other, or their position in any particular

direction. Neither is there any proportion as to their size; some being

large and commodious, from forty to fifty feet long, and twenty or

thirty broad, while others of them are mere hovels. Their figure is not

unlike oblong corn, or hay-stacks; or, perhaps, a better idea may be

conceived of them, if we suppose the roof of a barn placed on the

ground, in such a manner, as to form a high, acute ridge, with two very

low sides, hardly discernible at a distance. The gable, at each end

corresponding to the sides, makes these habitations perfectly close all

round; and they are well thatched with long grass, which is laid on

slender poles, disposed with some regularity. The entrance is made

indifferently, in the end or side, and is an oblong hole, so low, that

one must rather creep than walk in; and is often shut up by a board of

planks, fastened together, which serves as a door, but having no hinges,

must be removed occasionally. No light enters the house, but by this

opening; and though such close habitations may afford a comfortable

retreat in bad weather, they seem but ill-adapted to the warmth of the

climate. They are, however, kept remarkably clean; and their floors are

covered with a large quantity of dried grass, over which they spread

mats to sit and sleep upon. At one end stands a kind of bench, about

three feet high, on which their household utensils are placed. The

catalogue is not long. It consists of gourd-shells, which they convert

into vessels that serve as bottles to hold water, and as baskets to

contain their victuals, and other things, with covers of the same; and

of a few wooden bowls and trenchers, of different sizes. Judging from

what we saw growing, and from what was brought to market, there can be

no doubt that the greatest part of their vegetable food consists of

sweet potatoes, _taro_, and plantains; and that bread-fruit and yams are

rather to be esteemed rarities. Of animal food, they can be in no want;

as they have abundance of hogs, which run, without restraint, about the

houses; and if they eat dogs, which is not improbable, their stock of

these seem to be very considerable. The great number of fishing-hooks

found among them, showed, that they derive no inconsiderable supply of

animal food from the sea. But it should seem, from their practice of

salting fish, that the openness of their coast often interrupts the

business of catching them; as it may be naturally supposed, that no set

of people would ever think of preserving quantities of food

artificially, if they could depend upon a daily, regular supply of it,

in its fresh state. This sort of reasoning, however, will not account

for their custom of salting their pork, as well as their fish, which are

preserved in gourd-shells. The salt, of which they use a great quantity

for this purpose, is of a red colour, not very coarse, and seems to be

much the same with what our stragglers found at Christmas Island. It has

its colour, doubtless, from a mixture of the mud, at the bottom of the

part where it is formed, for some of it that had adhered in lumps, was

of a sufficient whiteness and purity.

They bake their vegetable food with heated stones, as at the Southern

Islands; and, from the vast quantity which we saw dressed at one time,

we suspected that the whole village, or, at least, a considerable number

of people, joined in the use of a common oven. We did not see them dress

any animal food at this island; but Mr. Gore’s party, as already

mentioned, had an opportunity of satisfying themselves, that it was

dressed in Oneeheow in the same sort of ovens; which leaves no doubt of

this being also the practice in Atooi; especially as we met with no

utensil there, that could be applied to the purpose of stewing or

boiling. The only artificial dish we met with, was a _taro_ pudding;

which, though a disagreeable mess from its sourness, was greedily

devoured by the natives. They eat off a kind of wooden plates, or

trenchers; and the women, as far as we could judge from one instance, if

restrained from feeding at the same dish with the men, as at Otaheite,

are at least permitted to eat in the same place near them.

Their amusements seem pretty various; for, during our stay, several were

discovered. The dances, at which they use the feathered cloaks and caps,

were not seen; but from the motions which they made with their hands, on

other occasions, when they sung, we could form some judgment that they

are, in some degree at least, similar to those we had met with at the

southern Islands, though not executed so skilfully. Neither had they

amongst them either flutes or reeds; and the only two musical

instruments which we observed, were of an exceeding rude kind. One of

them does not produce a melody exceeding that of a child’s rattle. It

consists of what may be called a conic cap inverted, but scarcely

hollowed at the base above a foot high, made of a coarse sedge-like

plant; the upper part of which, and the edges, are ornamented with

beautiful red feathers; and to the point, or lower part, is fixed a

gourd-shell, larger than the fist. Into this is put something to rattle;

which is done by holding the instrument by the small part, and shaking,

or rather moving it, from place to place briskly, either to different

sides, or backward and forward, just before the face, striking the

breast with the other hand at the same time. The other musical

instrument, (if either of them deserve that name) was a hollow vessel of

wood, like a platter, combined with the use of two sticks, on which one

of our gentlemen saw a man performing. He held one of the sticks, about

two feet long, as we do a fiddle, with one hand, and struck it with the

other, which was smaller, and resembled a drum-stick, in a quicker or

slower measure; at the same time beating with his foot upon the hollow

vessel, that lay inverted upon the ground, and thus producing a tune

that was by no means disagreeable. This music was accompanied by the

vocal performance of some women, whose song had a pleasing and tender

effect.

We observed great numbers of small polished rods, about four or five

feet long, somewhat thicker than the rammer of a musket, with a tuft of

long white dog’s hair fixed on the small end. These are, probably, used

in their diversions. We saw a person take one of them in his hand, and

holding it up, give a smart stroke, till he brought it into an

horizontal position, striking with the foot, on the same side, upon the

ground, and with his other hand beating his breast at the same time.

They play at bowls, with pieces of the whetstone mentioned before, of

about a pound weight, shaped somewhat like a small cheese, but rounded

at the sides and edges, which are very nicely polished; and they have

other bowls of the same sort, made of a heavy reddish brown clay, neatly

glazed over with a composition of the same colour, or of a coarse, dark

grey slate. They also use, in the manner that we throw quoits, small,

flat, rounded pieces of the writing slate, of the diameter of the bowls,

but scarcely a quarter of an inch thick, also well polished. From these

circumstances one would be induced to think that their games are rather

trials of skill than of strength.

In every thing manufactured by these people, there appears to be an

uncommon degree of neatness and ingenuity. Their cloth, which is the

principal manufacture, is made from the _morus papyrifera_; and,

doubtless, in the same manner as at Otaheite and Tongataboo; for we

bought some of the grooved sticks, with which it is beaten. Its texture,

however, though thicker, is rather inferior to that of the cloth of

either of the other places; but in colouring, or staining it, the people

of Atooi display a superiority of taste, by the endless variation of

figures which they execute. One would suppose, on seeing a number of

their pieces, that they had borrowed their patterns from some mercer’s

shop, in which the most elegant productions of China and Europe are

collected; besides some original patterns of their own. Their colours,

indeed, except the red, are not very bright; but the regularity of the

figures and stripes is truly surprising; for, as far as we knew, they

have nothing like stamps or prints, to make the impressions. In what

manner they produce their colours, we had not opportunities of learning;

but besides the party-coloured sorts, they have some pieces of plain

white cloth, and others of a single colour, particularly dark brown and

light blue. In general, the pieces which they brought to us, were about

two feet broad, and four or five feet long, being the form and quantity

that they use for their common dress, or _maro_; and even these we

sometimes found were composed of pieces sewed together; an art which we

did not find to the southward, but is strongly, though not very neatly

performed here. There is also a particular sort that is thin, much

resembling oil-cloth; and which is actually either oiled or soaked in

some kind of varnish, and seems to resist the action of water pretty

well.

They fabricate a great many white mats, which are strong, with many red

stripes, rhombuses, and other figures interwoven on one side; and often

pretty large. These, probably, make a part of their dress occasionally;

for they put them on their backs when they offered them for sale. But

they make others coarser, plain and strong, which they spread over their

floors to sleep upon.

They stain their gourd-shells prettily with undulated lines, triangles,

and other figures of a black colour; instances of which we saw practised

at New Zealand. And they seem to possess the art of varnishing; for some

of these stained gourd-shells are covered with a kind of lacker; and, on

other occasions, they use a strong size, or gluey substance, to fasten

their things together. Their wooden dishes and bowls, out of which they

drink their ava, are of the _etooa_-tree, or _cordia_, as neat, as if

made in our turning-lathe, and perhaps better polished. And amongst

their articles of handicraft, may be reckoned small square fans of mat

or wicker-work, with handles tapering from them of the same or of wood,

which are neatly wrought with small cords of hair, and fibres of the

cocoa-nut core intermixed. The great variety of fishing-hooks are

ingeniously made, some of bone, others of wood pointed with bone, and

many of pearl shell. Of the last, some are like a sort that we saw at

Tongataboo, and others simply curved, as the common sort at Otaheite, as

well as the wooden ones. The bones are mostly small and composed of two

pieces; and all the different sorts have a barb, either on the inside

like ours, or on the outside opposite the same part; but others have

both, the outer one being farthest from the point. Of this last sort,

one was procured nine inches long, of a single piece of bone, which,

doubtless, belonged to some large fish. The elegant form and polish of

this could not, certainly, be outdone by any European artist, even if he

should add all his knowledge in design, to the number and convenience of

his tools. They polish their stones by constant friction, with

pumice-stone in water; and such of their working instruments or tools as

I saw, resembled those of the southern islands. Their hatchets, or

rather adzes, were exactly of the same pattern, and either made of the

same sort of blackish stone, or of a clay-coloured one. They have also

little instruments made of a single shark’s tooth, some of which are

fixed to the fore-part of a dog’s jaw-bone, and others to a thin wooden

handle of the same shape, and at the other end there is a bit of string

fastened through a small perforation. These serve as knives

occasionally, and are, perhaps, used in carving.

The only iron tools, or rather bits of iron, seen amongst them, and

which they had before our arrival, were a piece of iron hoop about two

inches long, fitted into a wooden handle[27], and another edge tool,

which our people guessed to be made of the point of a broad-sword. Their

having the actual possession of these, and their so generally knowing

the use of this metal, inclined some on board to think, that we had not

been the first European visitors of these islands. But, it seems to me,

that the very great surprise expressed by them on seeing our ships, and

their total ignorance of the use of fire-arms, cannot be reconciled with

such a notion. There are many ways by which such people may get pieces

of iron, or acquire the knowledge of the existence of such a metal,

without ever having had an immediate connection with nations that use

it. It can hardly be doubted that it was unknown to all the inhabitants

of this sea, before Magellan led the way into it; for no discoverer,

immediately after his voyage, ever found any of this metal in their

possession; though, in the course of our late voyages it has been

observed, that the use of it was known at several islands, to which no

former European ships had ever, as far as we know, found their way. At

all the places where Mendana touched in his two voyages, it must have

been seen and left, and this would extend the knowledge of it, no doubt,

to all the various islands with which those whom he had visited had any

immediate intercourse. It might even be carried farther; and where

specimens of this article could not be procured, descriptions might, in

some measure, serve to make it known when afterward seen. The next

voyage to the southward of the line in which any intercourse was had

with the natives of this ocean, was that of Quiros, who landed at

Sagittaria, the Island of Handsome People, and at Tierra del Espiritu

Santo; at all which places, and at those with whom they had any

communication, it must of consequence have been made known. To him

succeeded, in this navigation, Le Maire and Schouten, whose connections

with the natives commenced much farther to the eastward, and ended at

Cocos and Horn Islands. It was not surprising that, when I visited

Tongataboo in 1773, I should find a bit of iron there, as we knew that

Tasman had visited it before me; but let us suppose, that he had never

discovered the Friendly Islands, our finding iron amongst them would

have occasioned much speculation; though we have mentioned before[28],

the method by which they had gained a renewal of their knowledge of this

metal, which confirms my hypothesis. For Neeootaboo taboo, or Boscawen’s

Island, where Captain Wallis’s ships left it, and from whence Paulaho

received it, lies some degrees to the N. W. of Tongataboo. It is well

known that Roggewein lost one of his ships on the Pernicious Islands,

which, from their situation, are probably not unknown to, though not

frequently visited by, the inhabitants of Otaheite and the Society

Islands. It is equally certain, that these last people had a knowledge

of iron, and purchased it with the greatest avidity when Captain Wallis

discovered Otaheite; and this knowledge could only have been acquired

through the mediation of those neighbouring Islands where it had been

originally left. Indeed, they acknowledge that this was actually the

case, and they have told us since, that they held it in such estimation

before Captain Wallis’s arrival, that a chief of Otaheite who had got

two nails into his possession, received no small emolument by letting

out the use of these to his neighbours for the purpose of boring holes,

when their own methods failed or were thought too tedious.[29] The men

of the Society Islands whom we found at Wateeoo had been driven thither

long after the knowledge and use of iron had been introduced amongst

their countrymen; and though, probably they had no specimen of it with

them, they would naturally and with ease communicate at that island

their knowledge of this valuable material by description. From the

people of Wateeoo again, those of Hervey’s Island might derive that

desire to possess some of it, of which we had proofs during our short

intercourse with them.

The consideration of these facts sufficiently explains how the knowledge

of iron has been conveyed throughout this ocean to islands which never

have had an immediate intercourse with Europeans; and it may easily be

conceived, that wherever the history of it only has been reported, or a

very small quantity of it has been left, the greater eagerness will be

shown by the natives to get copious supplies of it. The application of

these particulars to the instance now under consideration is obvious.

The people of Atooi and Oneeheow, without having ever been visited by

Europeans before us, might have received it from intermediate islands,

lying between them and the Ladrones, which have been frequented by the

Spaniards almost ever since the date of Magellan’s voyage. Or, if the

distant western situation of the Ladrones should render this solution

less probable, is there not the extensive continent of America to

windward, where the Spaniards have been settled for more than two

hundred years, during which long period of time shipwrecks must have

frequently happened on its coasts? It cannot be thought at all

extraordinary, that part of such wrecks containing iron should, by the

easterly trade-wind, be from time to time cast upon islands scattered

about this vast ocean. The distance of Atooi from America, is no

argument against this supposition. But even if it were, it would not

destroy it. This ocean is traversed every year by Spanish ships; and it

is obvious, that, besides the accident of losing a mast and its

appendages, casks with iron hoops, and many other things containing

iron, maybe thrown or may fall overboard during so long a passage, and

thus find their way to land. But these are not mere conjectures and

possibilities, for one of my people actually did see some wood in one of

the houses at Wymoa, which he judged to be fir. It was worm-eaten, and

the natives gave him to understand, that it had been driven ashore by

the waves of the sea; and we had their own express testimony, that they

had got the inconsiderable specimens of iron found amongst them from

some place to the eastward.

From this digression (if it can be called so), I return to the

observations made during our stay at Atooi, and some account must now be

given of their canoes. These, in general, are about twenty-four feet

long, and have the bottom for the most part formed of a single piece or

log of wood, hollowed out to the thickness of an inch or an inch and an

half, and brought to a point at each end. The sides consist of three

boards, each about an inch thick, and neatly fitted and lashed to the

bottom part. The extremities, both at head and stern, are a little

raised, and both are made sharp, somewhat like a wedge, but they flatten

more abruptly, so that the two side-boards join each other side by side

for more than a foot. But Mr. Webber’s drawing will explain their

construction more accurately than my description in words. As they are

not more than fifteen or eighteen inches broad, those that go single

(for they sometimes join them as at the other islands), have

out-riggers, which are shaped and fitted with more judgment than any I

had before seen. They are rowed by paddles, such as we had generally met

with; and some of them have a light triangular sail, like those of the

Friendly Islands, extended to a mast and boom. The ropes used for their

boats, and the smaller cords for their fishing-tackle, are strong and

well made.

What we saw of their agriculture, furnished sufficient proofs that they

are not novices in that art. The vale ground has already been mentioned

as one continued plantation of _taro_, and a few other things, which

have all the appearance of being well attended to. The potatoe fields

and spots of sugar-cane or plantains on the higher grounds, are planted

with the same regularity, and always in some determinate figure,

generally as a square or oblong; but neither these nor the others are

inclosed with any kind of fence, unless we reckon the ditches in the low

grounds such, which, it is more probable, are intended to convey water

to the _taro_. The greater quantity and goodness of these articles may

also, perhaps, be as much attributed to skilful culture, as to natural

fertility of soil, which seems better adapted to them than to

bread-fruit and cocoa-nut trees; the few which we saw of those latter

not being in a thriving state, which will sufficiently account for the

preference given to the culture of the other article, though more labour

be required to produce them. But notwithstanding this skill in

agriculture, the general appearance of the island showed that it was

capable of much more extensive improvement, and of maintaining at least

three times the number of the inhabitants that are at present upon it;

for the far greater part of it that now lies quite waste, seemed to be

as good a soil as those parts of it that are in cultivation. We must

therefore conclude, that these people, from some cause which we were not

long enough amongst them to be able to trace, do not increase in that

proportion, which would make it necessary to avail themselves of the

extent of their island, toward raising a greater quantity of its

vegetable production for their subsistence.

Though I did not see a chief of any note, there were, however, several,

as the natives informed us, who reside upon Atooi, and to whom they

prostrate themselves as a mark of submission, which seems equivalent to

the _moe_, _moea_, paid to the chiefs of the Friendly Islands, and is

called here _hamoea_ or _moe_. Whether they were at first afraid to show

themselves, or happened to be absent, I cannot say; but after I had left

the island, one of these great men made his appearance, and paid a visit

to Captain Clerke on board the Discovery. He came off in a double canoe,

and, like the king of the Friendly Islands, paid no regard to the small

canoes that happened to lie in his way, but ran against or over them,

without endeavouring in the least to avoid them. And it was not possible

for these poor people to avoid him, for they could not manage their

canoes, it being a necessary mark of their submission, that they should

lie down till he had passed. His attendants helped him into the ship,

and placed him on the gang-way. Their care of him did not cease then,

for they stood round him holding each other by the hands; nor would they

suffer any one to come near him but Captain Clerke himself. He was a

young man, clothed from head to foot, and accompanied by a young woman

supposed to be his wife. His name was said to be Tamahano. Captain

Clerke made him some suitable presents, and received from him in return,

a large bowl supported by two figures of men, the carving of which, both

as to the design and execution, showed some degree of skill. This bowl,

as our people were told, used to be filled with the _kava_, or _ava_ (as

it is called at Otaheite), which liquor they prepare and drink here, as

at the other islands in this ocean. Captain Clerke could not prevail

upon this great man to go below, nor to move from the place where his

attendants had first fixed him. After staying some time in his ship, he

was carried again into his canoe, and returned to the island, receiving

the same honours from all the natives, as when he came on board. The

next day several messages were sent to Captain Clerke, inviting him to

return the visit ashore, and acquainting him that the chief had prepared

a large present on that occasion. But being anxious to get to sea and

join the Resolution, the Captain did not think it advisable to accept of

the invitation.

The very short and imperfect intercourse which we had with the natives,

put it out of our power to form any accurate judgment of the mode of

government established amongst them; but from the general resemblance of

customs, and particularly from what we observed of the honours paid to

their chiefs, it seems reasonable to believe that it is of the same

nature with that which prevails throughout all the islands we had

hitherto visited, and probably their wars amongst themselves are equally

frequent. This, indeed, might be inferred from the number of weapons

which we found them possessed of, and from the excellent order these

were kept in. But we had direct proof of the fact from their own

confession; and, as we understood, these wars are between the different

districts of their own island, as well as between it and their

neighbours at Oneeheow and Orrehoua. We need scarcely assign any other

cause besides this, to account for the appearance, already mentioned, of

their population bearing no proportion to the extent of their ground

capable of cultivation.

Besides their spears or lances, made of a fine chesnut-coloured wood,

beautifully polished, some of which are barbed at one end, and flattened

to a point at the other, they have a sort of weapon which we had never

seen before, and not mentioned by any navigator, as used by the natives

of the South Sea. It is somewhat like a dagger, in general about a foot

and a half long, sharpened at one or both ends, and secured to the hand

by a string. Its use is to stab at close fight, and it seems well

adapted to the purpose. Some of these may be called double daggers,

having a handle in the middle, with which they are better enabled to

strike different ways. They have also bows and arrows; but, both from

their apparent scarcity and their slender make, it may almost be

presumed that they never use them in battle. The knife or saw formerly

mentioned, with which they dissect the dead bodies, may also be ranked

amongst their weapons, as they both strike and cut with it when closely

engaged. It is a small flat wooden instrument of an oblong shape, about

a foot long, rounded at the corners with a handle, almost like one sort

of the _patoos_ of New Zealand; but its edges are entirely surrounded

with sharks’ teeth strongly fixed to it and pointing outward, having

commonly a hole in the handle through which passes a long string which

is wrapped several times round the wrist. We also suspected that they

use slings on some occasions, for we got some pieces of the _hæmatites_,

or blood-stone, artificially made of an oval shape, divided

longitudinally, with a narrow groove in the middle of the convex part.

To this the person who had one of them applied a cord of no great

thickness, but would not part with it, though he had no objection to

part with the stone, which must prove fatal when thrown with any force,

as it weighed a pound. We likewise saw some oval pieces of whetstone

well polished, but somewhat pointed toward each end, nearly resembling

in shape some stones which we had seen at New Caledonia in 1774, and

used there in their slings.

What we could learn of their religious institutions, and the manner of

disposing of their dead, which may properly be considered as closely

connected, has been already mentioned. And as nothing more strongly

points out the affinity between the manners of these people and of the

Friendly and Society Islands, I must just mention some other

circumstances to place this in a strong point of view, and, at the same

time, to show how a few of the infinite modifications of which a few

leading principles are capable may distinguish any particular nation.

The people of Tongataboo inter their dead in a very decent manner, and

they also inter their human sacrifices; but they do not offer or expose

any other animal or even vegetable to their gods, as far as we know.

Those of Otaheite do not inter their dead, but expose them to waste by

time and putrefaction, though the bones are afterwards buried; and, as

this is the case, it is very remarkable that they should inter the

entire bodies of their human sacrifices. They also offer other animals

and vegetables to their gods, but are by no means attentive to the state

of the sacred places, where those solemn rites are performed, most of

their _morais_ being in a ruinous condition, and bearing evident marks

of neglect. The people of Atooi, again, inter both their common dead and

human sacrifices, as at Tongataboo; but they resemble those of Otaheite

in the slovenly state of their religious places, and in offering

vegetables and animals to their gods.

The _taboo_ also prevails in Atooi in its full extent, and seemingly

with much more rigour than even at Tongataboo. For the people here

always asked, with great eagerness and signs of fear to offend, whether

any particular thing which they desired to see, or we were unwilling to

show, was _taboo_, or, as they pronounced the word, _tafoo_? The _maia_,

_raa_, or forbidden articles at the Society Islands, though doubtless

the same thing, did not seem to be so strictly observed by them, except

with respect to the dead, about whom we thought them more superstitious

than any of the others were. But these are circumstance with which we

are not as yet sufficiently acquainted, to be decisive about; and I

shall only just observe, to show the similitude in other matters

connected with religion, that the priests, or _tahounas_, here, are as

numerous as at the other islands, if we may judge from our being able,

during our stay, to distinguish several saying their _poore_, or prayer.

But whatever resemblance we might discover, in the general manners of

the people of Atooi to those of Otaheite, these of course were less

striking than the coincidence of language. Indeed, the languages of both

places may be said to be almost word for word the same. It is true, that

we sometimes remarked particular words to be pronounced exactly as we

had found at New Zealand and the Friendly Islands; but though all the

four dialects are indisputably the same, these people in general have

neither the strong guttural pronunciation of the former, nor a less

degree of it, which also distinguishes the latter; and they have not

only adopted the soft mode of the Otaheiteans in avoiding harsh sounds,

but the whole idiom of their language, using not only the same affixes

and suffixes to their words, but the same measure and cadence in their

songs, though in a manner somewhat less agreeable. There seems, indeed,

at first hearing, some disagreement to the ear of a stranger, but it

ought to be considered, that the people of Otaheite, from their frequent

connections with the English, had learnt, in some measure, to adapt

themselves to our scanty knowledge of their language, by using not only

the most common, but even corrupted, expressions in conversation with

us; whereas, when they conversed among themselves and used the several

parts necessary to propriety of speech, they were scarcely at all

understood by those amongst us, who had made the greatest proficiency in

their vocabulary. A catalogue of words was collected at Atooi by Mr.

Anderson, who lost no opportunity of making our voyage useful to those

who amuse themselves in tracing the migrations of the various tribes or

families that have peopled the globe, by the most convincing of all

arguments, that drawn from affinity of language.

How shall we account for this nation’s having spread itself in so many

detached islands, so widely disjoined from each other, in every quarter

of the Pacific Ocean! We find it from New Zealand in the south, as far

as the Sandwich Islands to the north! And in another direction, from

Easter Island to the Hebrides! That is, over an extent of sixty degrees

of latitude or twelve hundred leagues north and south! And eighty-three

degrees of longitude, or sixteen hundred and sixty leagues east and

west! How much farther in either direction its colonies reach is not

known; but what we know already, in consequence of this and our former

voyage, warrants our pronouncing it to be, though perhaps not the most

numerous, certainly, by far, the most extensive nation upon earth.[30]

Had the Sandwich Islands been discovered at an early period by the

Spaniards, there is little doubt that they would have taken advantage of

so excellent a situation, and have made use of Atooi or some other of

the islands as a refreshing place, in the ships that sail annually from

Acapulco for Manilla. They lie almost midway between the first place and

Guam, one of the Ladrones, which is at present their only port in

traversing this vast ocean; and it would not have been a week’s sail out

of their common route, to have touched at them, which could have been

done without running the least hazard of losing the passage, as they are

sufficiently within the verge of the easterly trade-wind. An

acquaintance with the Sandwich Islands would have been equally

favourable to our Buccaneers, who used sometimes to pass from the coast

of America to the Ladrones, with a stock of food and water scarcely

sufficient to preserve life. Here they might always have found plenty,

and have been within a month’s sure sail of the very part of California,

which the Manilla ship is obliged to make, or else have returned to the

coast of America, thoroughly refitted, after an absence of two months.

How happy would Lord Anson have been, and what hardships would he have

avoided, if he had known that there was a group of islands, half way

between America and Tinian, where all his wants could have been

effectually supplied, and in describing which, the elegant historian of

that voyage would have presented his reader with a more agreeable

picture than I have been able to draw in this chapter?

CHAP. XIII.

OBSERVATIONS MADE AT THE SANDWICH ISLANDS, ON THE LONGITUDE, VARIATION

OF THE COMPASS, AND TIDES.—PROSECUTION OF THE VOYAGE.—REMARKS ON THE

MILDNESS OF THE WEATHER, AS FAR AS THE LATITUDE 44° NORTH.—PAUCITY OF

SEA BIRDS, IN THE NORTHERN HEMISPHERE.—SMALL SEA ANIMALS DESCRIBED.—

ARRIVAL ON THE COAST OF AMERICA.—APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY.—

UNFAVOURABLE WINDS, AND BOISTEROUS WEATHER.—REMARKS ON MARTIN DE

AGUILLAR’S RIVER, AND JUAN DE FUCA’S PRETENDED STRAIT.—AN INLET

DISCOVERED, WHERE THE SHIPS ANCHOR.—BEHAVIOUR OF THE NATIVES.

After the Discovery had joined us, we stood away to the northward, close

hauled, with a gentle gale from the E.; and nothing occurring in this

situation worthy of a place in my narrative, the reader will permit me

to insert here the nautical observations which I had opportunities of

making relative to the islands we had left; and which we had been

fortunate enough to add to the geography of this part of the Pacific

Ocean.

The longitude of the Sandwich Islands was determined by seventy-two sets

of lunar observations; some of which were made while we were at anchor

in the road of Wymoa, others before we arrived and after we left it, and

reduced to it by the watch or time-keeper. By the mean result of these

observations, the longitude of the road is

200° 13ʹ 0ʺ E.

Time-keeper { Greenwich rate, 202 0 0

{ Ulietea rate, 200 21 0

The latitude of the road, by the }

mean of two meridian observations } 21 56 15 N.

of the sun }

The observations for the variation of the compass did not agree very

well among themselves. It is true, they were not all made exactly in the

same spot. The different situations, however, could make very little

difference. But the whole will be best seen by casting an eye on the

following table.

East Mean

Time. Latitude. Longitude. Compass. Variation. Variation.

Jan. { Gregory’s 10° 10ʹ 10ʺ }

18th. A. M. 21° 12ʹ 200° 41ʹ { Knight’s 9 20 5 } 9° 51ʹ 38ʺ

{ Martin’s 10 4 40 }

19th. P. M. 21 51 200 20 { Knight’s 10 2 10 } 10 37 20

{ Gregory’s 11 12 30 }

{ Gregory’s 9 1 20 }

28th. A. M. 21 22 199 56 { Knight’s 9 1 25 } 9 26 57

{ Martin’s 10 18 5 }

{ Gregory’s 11 21 15 }

28th. P. M. 21 36 199 50 { Knight’s 10 40 0 } 11 12 50

{ Martin’s 11 37 50 }

Means of } 21 29 200 12 } - - 10 17 11

the above} }

On Jan. 18th. 21 12 200 41 the north end of

the needle dipped 42° 1ʹ 7ʺ.

The tides at the Sandwich Islands are so inconsiderable, that with the

great surf which broke against the shore, it was hardly possible to tell

at any time whether we had high or low water, or whether it ebbed or

flowed. On the south side of Atooi, we generally found a current setting

to the westward or north-westward; but when we were at anchor off

Oneeheow, the current set nearly N. W. and S. E., six hours one way, and

six the other, and so strong as to make the ships tend, though the wind

blew fresh. This was certainly a regular tide, and as far as I could

judge, the flood came from the N. W.

I now return to the progress of our voyage. On the 7th, being in the

latitude of 29° N., and in the longitude of 200° E., the wind veered to

S. E. This enabled us to steer N. E. and E.; which course we continued

till the 12th, when the wind had veered round by the south and west, to

north-east and east north-east. I then tacked, and stood to the

northward, our latitude being 30° N. and our longitude 206° 15ʹ E.

Notwithstanding our advanced latitude, and its being the winter season,

we had only begun, for a few days past, to feel a sensation of cold in

the mornings and evenings. This is a sign of the equal and lasting

influence of the sun’s heat, at all seasons, to 30° on each side the

line. The disproportion is known to become very great after that. This

must be attributed, almost entirely, to the direction of the rays of the

sun, independent of the bare distance, which is, by no means, equal to

the effect.

On the 19th, being now in the latitude of 37° N., and in the longitude

of 206° E., the wind veered to south-east; and I was enabled again to

steer to the east, inclining to the north. We had, on the 25th, reached

the latitude of 42° 30ʹ, and the longitude of 219°; and then we began to

meet with the rock-weed, mentioned by the writer of Lord Anson’s voyage,

under the name of sea-leek, which the Manilla ships generally fall in

with. Now and then a piece of wood also appeared. But if we had not

known that the continent of North America was not far distant, we might,

from the few signs of the vicinity of land hitherto met with, have

concluded, that there was none within some thousand leagues of us. We

had hardly seen a bird, or any other oceanic animal, since we left

Sandwich Islands.

On the 1st of March, our latitude being now 44° 49ʹ N., and our

longitude 228° E., we had one calm day. This was succeeded by a wind

from the north, with which I stood to the east close hauled, in order to

make the land. According to the charts, it ought not to have been far

from us. It was remarkable that we should still be attended with such

moderate and mild weather, so far to the northward, and so near the

coast of an extensive continent, at this time of the year. The present

season either must be uncommon for its mildness, or we can assign no

reason why Sir Francis Drake should have met with such severe cold,

about this latitude, in the month of June.[31] Viscaino, indeed, who was

near the same place in the depth of winter, says little of the cold, and

speaks of a ridge of snowy mountains, somewhere on the coast, as a thing

rather remarkable.[32] Our seeing so few birds, in comparison of what we

met with in the same latitudes to the south of the line, is another

singular circumstance which must either proceed from a scarcity of the

different sorts, or from a deficiency of places to rest upon. From hence

we may conclude, that beyond 40° in the southern hemisphere, the species

are much more numerous and the isles where they inhabit also more

plentifully scattered about, than any where between the coast of

California and Japan, in or near that latitude.

During a calm, on the morning of the 2d, some parts of the sea seemed

covered with a kind of slime, and some small sea animals were swimming

about. The most conspicuous of which were of gelatinous, or _medusa_

kind, almost globular; and another sort smaller, that had a white or

shining appearance, and were very numerous. Some of these last were

taken up, and put into a glass cup, with some salt water, in which they

appeared like small scales, or bits of silver, when at rest, in a prone

situation. When they began to swim about, which they did with equal

ease, upon their back, sides, or belly, they emitted the brightest

colours of the most precious gems, according to their position with

respect to the light. Sometimes they appeared quite pellucid, at other

times assuming various tints of blue, from a pale sapphirine to a deep

violet colour, which were frequently mixed with a ruby, or opaline

redness; and glowed with a strength sufficient to illuminate the vessel

and water. These colours appeared most vivid when the glass was held to

a strong light; and mostly vanished on the subsiding of the animals to

the bottom, when they had a brownish cast. But, with candle light, the

colour was, chiefly, a beautiful pale green, tinged with a burnished

gloss; and, in the dark, it had a faint appearance of glowing fire. They

proved to be a new species of _oniscus_, and, from their properties,

were, by Mr. Anderson (to whom we owe this account of them), called

_oniscus fulgens_; being probably an animal which has a share in

producing some sorts of that lucid appearance, often observed near ships

at sea, in the night. On the same day two large birds settled on the

water, near the ship. One of these was the _procellaria maxima_ (the

_quebrantahuessos_), and the other, which was little more than half the

size, seemed to be of the _albatross_ kind. The upper part of the wings,

and tip of the tail, were black, with the rest white; the bill

yellowish; upon the whole, not unlike the sea-gull, though larger.

On the 6th, at noon, being in the latitude of 44° 10ʹ N., and the

longitude of 234-1/2° E., we saw two sails and several whales; and at

day-break, the next morning, the long-looked-for coast of New Albion[33]

was seen, extending from north-east to south-east, distant ten or twelve

leagues. At noon our latitude was 44° 33ʹ N., and our longitude 235° 20ʹ

E.; and the land extended from north-east half north, to south-east by

south, about eight leagues distant. In this situation we had

seventy-three fathoms’ water, over a muddy bottom, and about a league

farther off found ninety fathoms. The land appeared to be of a moderate

height, diversified with hills and valleys, and, almost every where,

covered with wood. There was, however, no very striking object on any

part of it, except one hill, whose elevated summit was flat. This bore

east from us, at noon. At the northern extreme the land formed a point,

which I called _Cape Foulweather_, from the very bad weather that we

soon after met with. I judge it to lie in the latitude of 44° 55ʹ N.,

and in the longitude of 235° 54ʹ E.

We had variable light airs and calms till eight o’clock in the evening,

when a breeze sprung up at south-west. With it I stood to the

north-west, under an easy sail, waiting for day-light to range along the

coast. But at four, next morning, the wind shifted to north-west, and

blew in squalls, with rain. Our course was north-east, till near ten

o’clock, when, finding that I could make no progress on this tack, and

seeing nothing like a harbour, I tacked, and stood off south-west. At

this time, Cape Foulweather bore north-east by north, about eight

leagues distant. Toward noon the wind veered more to the westward, and

the weather became fair and clear, so that we were enabled to make lunar

observations. Having reduced all those that we had made since the 19th

of last month to the present ones, by the time-keeper, amounting, in the

whole, to seventy-two sets, their mean result determined the longitude

to be 235° 15ʹ 26ʺ E., which was 14° 11ʹ less than what the time-keeper

gave. This longitude is made use of for settling that of the coast, and

I have not a doubt of its being within a very few miles of the truth.

Our difficulties now began to increase. In the evening the wind came to

the north-west, blowing in squalls with hail and sleet; and the weather

being thick and hazy, I stood out to sea till near noon the next day,

when I tacked and stood in again for the land, which made its appearance

at two in the afternoon, bearing east north-east. The wind and weather

continued the same; but, in the evening, the former veered more to the

west, and the latter grew worse, which made it necessary to tack and

stand off till four the next morning, when I ventured to stand in again.

At four in the afternoon we saw the land, which, at six, extended from

north-east half east, to south-east by south, about eight leagues

distant. In this situation we tacked and sounded; but a line of a

hundred and sixty fathoms did not reach the ground. I stood off till

midnight, then stood in again; and at half past six, we were within

three leagues of the land, which extended from north by east, half east,

to south, half east; each extreme about seven leagues distant. Seeing no

signs of a harbour, and the weather being still unsettled, I tacked and

stretched off south-west, having then fifty-five fathoms water over a

muddy bottom.

That part of the land, which we were so near when we tacked, is of a

moderate height, though, in some places, it rises higher within. It was

diversified with a great many rising grounds and small hills; many of

which were entirely covered with tall straight trees; and others, which

were lower, and grew in spots like coppices; but the interspaces and

sides of many of the rising grounds, were clear. The whole, though it

might make an agreeable summer prospect, had now an uncomfortable

appearance, as the bare grounds toward the coast were all covered with

snow, which seemed to be of a considerable depth between the little

hills and rising grounds; and, in several places toward the sea, might

easily have been mistaken, at a distance, for white cliffs. The snow on

the rising grounds was thinner spread; and farther inland, there was no

appearance of any; from whence we might, perhaps, conclude that what we

saw toward the sea had fallen during the night, which was colder than

any we had experienced since our arrival on the coast; and we had

sometimes a kind of sleet. The coast seemed every where almost straight,

without any opening or inlet; and it appeared to terminate in a kind of

white sandy beach; though some on board thought that appearance was

owing to the snow. Each extreme of the land that was now before us,

seemed to shoot out into a point. The northern one was the same which we

had first seen on the 7th; and on that account I called it _Cape

Perpetua_. It lies in the latitude of 44° 6ʹ N., and in the longitude of

235° 52ʹ E. The southern extreme before us, I named _Cape Gregory_.[34]

Its latitude is 43° 30ʹ, and its longitude 235° 57ʹ E. It is a

remarkable point; the land of it rising almost directly from the sea to

a tolerable height, while that on each side of it is low.

I continued standing off till one in the afternoon. Then I tacked, and

stood in, hoping to have the wind off from the land in the night. But in

this I was mistaken; for at five o’clock it began to veer to the west

and south west; which obliged me, once more, to stand out to sea. At

this time, Cape Perpetua bore north-east by north; and the farthest land

we could see to the south of Cape Gregory, bore south by east, perhaps

ten or twelve leagues distant. If I am right in this estimation, its

latitude will be 43° 10ʹ, and its longitude 235° 55ʹ east, which is

nearly the situation of Cape Blanco, discovered or seen by Martin

d’Agular, on the 19th of January, 1603. It is worth observing, that, in

the very latitude where we now were, geographers have been pleased to

place a large entrance or strait, the discovery of which they take upon

them to ascribe to the same navigator; whereas nothing more is mentioned

in the account of his voyage, than his having seen, in this situation, a

large river, which he would have entered, but was prevented by the

currents.[35]

The wind, as I have observed, had veered to the south-west in the

evening; but it was very unsettled, and blew in squalls with snow

showers. In one of these, at midnight, it shifted at once to west

north-west, and soon increased to a very hard gale, with heavy squalls,

attended with sleet or snow. There was no choice now; and we were

obliged to stretch to the southward, in order to get clear of the coast.

This was done under courses, and two close-reefed topsails; being rather

more sail than the ships could safely bear; but it was necessary to

carry it to avoid the more pressing danger of being forced on shore.

This gale continued till eight o’clock in the morning of the 13th; when

it abated, and I stood in again for the land. We had been forced a

considerable way backward; for at the time of our tacking, we were in

the latitude of 42° 45ʹ, and in the longitude of 233° 30ʹ.

The wind continued at west, and north-west; storms, moderate weather,

and calms, succeeding each other by turns, till the morning of the 21st;

when, after a few hours’ calm, a breeze sprung up at south-west. This

bringing with it fair weather, I steered north-easterly, in order to

fall in with the land, beyond that part of it where we had already so

unprofitably been tossed about for the last fortnight. In the evening,

the wind veered to the westward; and at eight o’clock, the next morning,

we saw the land, extending from north-east to east, nine leagues

distant. At this time we were in the latitude of 47° 5ʹ north, and in

the longitude of 235° 10ʹ east.

I continued to stand to the north with a fine breeze at west, and west

north-west, till near seven o’clock in the evening, when I tacked to

wait for day-light. At this time we were in forty-eight fathoms’ water,

and about four leagues from the land, which extended from north to south

east half east, and a small round hill, which had the appearance of

being an island, bore north three quarters east, distant six or seven

leagues, as I guessed; it appears to be of a tolerable height, and was

but just to be seen from the deck. Between this island or rock, and the

northern extreme of the land, there appeared to be a small opening,

which flattered us with the hopes of finding an harbour. These hopes

lessened as we drew nearer; and, at last, we had some reason to think,

that the opening was closed by low land. On this account I called the

point of land to the north of it _Cape Flattery_. It lies in the

latitude of 48° 15ʹ north, and in the longitude of 235° 3ʹ east. There

is a round hill of a moderate height over it; and all the land upon this

part of the coast is of a moderate and pretty equal height, well covered

with wood, and had a very pleasant and fertile appearance. It is in this

very latitude where we now were, that geographers have placed the

pretended strait of Juan de Fuca. We saw nothing like it; nor is there

the least probability that ever any such thing existed.[36]

I stood off to the southward till night, when I tacked, and steered to

the north-west, with a gentle breeze at south-west, intending to stand

in for the land as soon as day-light should appear. But, by that time,

we were reduced to two courses and close-reefed topsails, having a very

hard gale, with rain, right on shore; so that, instead of running in for

the land, I was glad to get an offing, or to keep that which we had

already got. The south west wind, was, however, but of short

continuance; for in the evening, it veered again to the west. Thus we

had perpetually strong west and north west winds to encounter. Sometimes

in an evening, the wind would become moderate, and veer to the

southward; but this was always a sure prelude to a storm, which blew the

hardest at south south-east, and was attended with rain and sleet. It

seldom lasted above four or six hours, before it was succeeded by

another gale from the north-west, which generally brought with it fair

weather. It was by the means of these southerly blasts, that we were

enabled to get to the north-west at all.

At length, at nine o’clock in the morning of the 29th, as we were

standing to the north-east, we again saw the land, which, at noon,

extended from north-west by west, to east south-east, the nearest part

about six leagues distant. Our latitude was now 49° 29ʹ north, and our

longitude 232° 29ʹ east. The appearance of the country differed much

from that of the parts which we had before seen, being full of high

mountains, whose summits were covered with snow; but the valleys between

them, and the grounds on the sea coast, high as well as low, were

covered to a considerable breadth with high straight trees, that formed

a beautiful prospect, as of one vast forest. The south-east extreme of

the land formed a low point, off which are many breakers, occasioned by

sunken rocks. On this account it was called _Point Breakers_. It lies in

the latitude of 49° 15ʹ north, and in the longitude of 233° 20ʹ east;

and the other extreme, in about the latitude of 50°, and the longitude

of 232°. I named this last _Woody Point_. It projects pretty much out to

the south-west, and is high land. Between these two points, the shore

forms a large bay, which I called _Hope Bay_; hoping, from the

appearance of the land, to find in it a good harbour. The event proved,

that we were not mistaken.

As we drew nearer the coast, we perceived the appearance of two inlets;

one in the north-west, and the other in the north-east corner of the

bay. As I could not fetch the former, I bore up to the latter, and

passed some breakers, or sunken rocks, that lay a league or more from

the shore. We had nineteen and twenty fathoms’ water half a league

without them; but as soon as we had passed them, the depth increased to

thirty, forty, and fifty fathoms, with a sandy bottom; and farther in we

found no ground with the greatest length of line. Notwithstanding

appearances, we were not yet sure that there were any inlets; but as we

were in a deep bay, I resolved to anchor, with a view to endeavour to

get some water, of which, by this time, we were in great want. At

length, as we advanced, the existence of the inlet was no longer

doubtful. At five o’clock we reached the west point of it, where we were

becalmed for some time. While in this situation, I ordered all the boats

to be hoisted out to tow the ships in. But this was hardly done, before

a fresh breeze sprung up again at north-west, with which we were enabled

to stretch up into an arm of the inlet, that was observed by us to run

in to the north-east. There we were again becalmed, and obliged to

anchor in eighty-five fathoms’ water, and so near the shore as to reach

it with a hawser. The wind failed the Discovery before she got within

the arm, where she anchored, and found only seventy fathoms.

We no sooner drew near the inlet, than we found the coast to be

inhabited; and at the place where we were first becalmed, three canoes

came off to the ship. In one of these were two men, in another six, and

in the third ten. Having come pretty near us, a person in one of the two

last stood up, and made a long harangue, inviting us to land, as we

guessed by his gestures. At the same time, he kept strewing handfuls of

feathers towards us[37]; and some of his companions threw handfuls of

red dust or powder in the same manner. The person who played the orator,

wore the skin of some animal, and held in each hand something which

rattled as he kept shaking it. After tiring himself with his repeated

exhortations, of which we did not understand a word, he was quiet; and

then others took it, by turns, to say something, though they acted their

part neither so long, nor with so much vehemence as the other. We

observed that two or three had their hair quite strewed over with small

white feathers, and others had large ones stuck into different parts of

the head. After the tumultuous noise had ceased, they lay at a little

distance from the ship, and conversed with each other in a very easy

manner; nor did they seem to show the least surprise or distrust. Some

of them, now and then got up, and said something after the manner of

their first harangues; and one sung a very agreeable air, with a degree

of softness and melody which we could not have expected; the word

_haela_, being often repeated as the burden of the song. The breeze

which soon after sprung up, bringing us nearer to the shore, the canoes

began to come off in greater numbers; and we had, at one time,

thirty-two of them near the ship, carrying from three to seven or eight

persons each, both men and women. Several of these stood up in their

canoes haranguing, and making gestures after the manner of our first

visitors. One canoe was remarkable for a singular head, which had a

bird’s eye and bill, of an enormous size, painted on it; and a person

who was in it, who seemed to be a chief, was no less remarkable for his

uncommon appearance; having many feathers hanging from his head, and

being painted in an extraordinary manner.[38] He held in his hand a

carved bird of wood, as large as a pigeon, with which he rattled as the

person first-mentioned had done; and was no less vociferous in his

harangue, which was attended with some expressive gestures.

Though our visitors behaved very peaceably, and could not be suspected

of any hostile intention, we could not prevail upon any of them to come

on board. They showed great readiness, however, to part with any thing

they had, and took from us whatever we offered them in exchange; but

were more desirous of iron, than of any other of our articles of

commerce; appearing to be perfectly acquainted with the use of that

metal. Many of the canoes followed us to our anchoring-place; and a

group of about ten or a dozen of them remained along-side the Resolution

most part of the night.

These circumstances gave us a reasonable ground of hope, that we should

find this a comfortable station to supply all our wants, and to make us

forget the hardships and delays experienced during a constant succession

of adverse winds, and boisterous weather, almost ever since our arrival

upon the coast of America.