LAS MANZANAS.
Catching a Thief. -- Miss Foyel. -- Start for Las Manzanas. --
First View of the Apple Groves. -- Omens of War. -- Inacayal's
Tolderia. -- Crossing the Rio Limay. -- Mr. Cox's Shipwreck. --
Lenketrou's Raid. -- A Night of Alarm. -- Bravery of my
Cousins. -- The Great Cheoeque. -- A Mounted Parlemento. --
Apples and Piñones. -- Graviel's Madness. -- Las Manzanas. --
Cheoeque's Palace. -- The Revels. -- Feuds between the Chiefs.
-- The Picunches and the Passes to Valdivia. -- Trading and
Politics. -- Resolutions of Peace. -- A Grand Banquet. -- Power
of Cheoeque. -- Araucanian Customs. -- Farewell Presents. --
Invitation to Return. -- Orkeke's Generosity. -- Return to
Geylum. -- Outbreak of an Epidemic. -- My Pretty Page. --
Departure from Geylum.
The day after our arrival at Geylum, Manzaneros or Araucanians arrived
from the north with cider of their own manufacture stored in sheepskins,
apples, and piñones, to trade; and a scene of debauchery ensued, as
usual. At night an attempt, nearly successful, was made to rob our
toldo: one of the women, however, was awake, and heard the thief
endeavouring to get into the back of the sleeping places where some
newly-finished mantles were stored; she gave the alarm to two of the
men, and they endeavoured to catch the would-be intruder, who, hearing
the alarm raised, started off at speed, not without receiving a cut from
a knife which marked him deeply on his shoulder; and, what was worse,
being recognised as he ran off.
Foyel invited me to drink at his expense, but I merely stayed in his
toldo long enough for the observance of etiquette; then retired to keep
Hinchel, who would not drink, company by his fireside. Whilst chatting
together he related how, many years ago, this place had been the scene
of a great battle between the Tehuelches and Manzaneros, in which he,
though only a boy, was struck down by a bola perdida and wounded with
a lance whilst on the ground; the battle resulting in a victory to the
Tehuelches.
The day following the drink, meat being scarce, I dined in Foyel's toldo
off a little cornmeal and a dessert of apples and piñones, of which
the honours were done by his daughter, a pretty girl of eighteen,
with long black silky hair, which it was the special duty of her
handmaid--a captive Tehuelche girl--to dress daily. This young lady
never condescended to any menial labour, though she occasionally busied
her delicate fingers with the needle; her dowry of about eighty mares
and the influence of her father made her of course a most desirable
match; but she, up to the time of my departure, had exercised the
privilege of an heiress and refused all offers. This evening she was
in great trouble, having lost a new mantle and some other valuables,
stolen no doubt by the Tehuelches. I promised to set inquiries on foot
through Casimiro, which resulted in the stolen property being given up,
and the thief proved to be the same individual who had endeavoured to
rob our toldo.
Shortly after this two messengers were despatched to Cheoeque, who
returned on March 25 with intelligence that the said chief would be
ready to receive us on April 2, and 'that we were to bring our arms,'
which latter message was rather ambiguous. I had been given the option
of taking our chief's message to Cheoeque, but owing to one of my horses
being lame, and for other reasons, preferred going with the mass later
on. Meña, the Chilian, was therefore honoured with the despatches in my
place, as he alone was competent to read the Spanish letters written
by myself as secretary, and he returned with glowing accounts of
the civility shown him at Las Manzanas, and the generally civilised
appearance of those Indians. We passed several very hungry and
disagreeable days in Geylum previous to starting; there was little game
in the surrounding country, and the weather was cold and wet, with
occasional snow. For two whole days Casimiro, Meña, and myself, who
were usually messmates, had nothing to eat but an armadillo and a few
fish which I caught in a pool of the stream. Near the Column Rock,
whilst hunting, we discovered a 'cache,' belonging to Foyel's Indians,
which contained something wrapped and lashed up in hides: although the
temptation was great to overhaul its contents, the package was left
unopened, and a quiet warning conveyed to Foyel that others were not
likely to be so scrupulous. This confirmed what Casimiro had said as to
these Indians providently leaving bags of fat and provisions in various
places to which they expected to return at no very distant period.
On the day fixed in the council, held subsequent to the return of
the chasquis, we all started, fully equipped, on our journey to Las
Manzanas, mustering 250 men of the united Indians, without toldos or
baggage, and in light marching order with a few spare horses. A few
horses were loaded with coverings for toldos, mantles, &c., which the
women hoped to sell to advantage to the Araucanians, and a few of the
women accompanied the expedition to conduct their barter, while a guard
of perhaps forty men remained behind to provide food for the women and
children who were to await our return.
We crossed the gradually sloping irregular plains covered with stunted
bushes, but scarcely deserving the name of high pampas, which bordered
the northern side of the valley of Geylum, and after passing between two
parallel walls of rocks, forming a sort of natural street, we emerged
into a succession of grassy plains, separated by barren rocky hills
covered with scrub, on attaining the summits of which the wooded
Cordillera on the western side rose into view some few leagues distant.
About 11 A.M., after we had been some four hours on our march, we met
two men, bringing with them a pack horse with a couple of skins of
grog for Foyel's people. They were soon surrounded by Tehuelches,
who proposed to drink there and then, and were much inclined to help
themselves; but a messenger from Foyel's people in the rear arriving,
they were permitted to pass unmolested on their way to Geylum, and we
proceeded on our journey and formed a circle to hunt. The country became
more impracticable for riding as we left the lower plains and mounted
some hills broken by deep gorges and bristling in every part with rocks
sparkling with unusually large plates of mica, which glistened like
glass in the sunshine; these hills were terminated by steep cliffs, over
which the ostriches were driven, a party having previously descended to
look out for them below. It was a curious sight to see the ostriches
dropping down heights varying from 10 to 50 feet, often two or three
together, with outspread wings. They appeared generally to be stunned
for a minute or two on reaching the bottom, and by the time they were on
their legs found themselves hampered by a ball from the unerring hand
of some stalwart Tehuelche, and running a yard or two fell with broken
legs.
Descending from these cliffs we mounted a range of hills more than 2,000
feet high, by means of a tolerably practicable track for travelling, and
on arriving at the summit halted for the remainder of the cavalcade.
From this point a most magnificent view presented itself; right below
us, looking quite close, but really some thirty miles distant, lay a
dark line as of a deep cutting, marking the valley of the Rio Limay,
which on the west side was terminated by high wooded mountains with
steep precipitous sides. Away to the N.W. was a very high snow-clad
mountain, on which the rays of the setting sun were shedding a
rose-coloured light. Between this and the line of the river rose
wooded ranges of hills, the real apple groves we had heard so much
about; below these again was a low peaked eminence, at the foot of
which, invisible to our eyes, lay our destination, viz., the toldos of
Cheoeque. For weeks Las Manzanas and Cheoeque had been almost the sole
topic of conversation, and the general excitement, which had been
intense at starting, now culminated at the sight of our distant bourne.
As we halted the Indians all raised their hands to their foreheads,
saluting the distant river, and inviting the Spirit of the locality to
be propitious to our undertaking, as to the issue of which there was
great uncertainty. The night before Casimiro had pointed out the redness
of the setting sun, and declared it to be an omen of war; but without
paying attention to the omen, which indeed was not perceptible to my
eyes, the unprecedented visit of 250 Tehuelches ostensibly for peace
might very possibly be otherwise understood by Cheoeque: indeed, it
afterwards appeared that he, in reality, was by no means assured of our
pacific intentions.
When all were collected and prepared to descend the mountain, it
transpired that Casimiro, who had been missing since the hunt commenced,
had, in company with several other Tehuelches and Foyel's Indians,
returned to drink. This was very annoying, and all present united in
abusing him for setting such an example when about to enter a part
of the country whither we were going on sufferance, amongst a not
remarkably friendly-disposed set of people. We halted after nightfall in
a valley at the side of a small rapid stream, the banks of which, for a
short distance, were covered with high tussocks of broad-leaved pampa
grass, amidst the shelter of which we bivouacked, although the night was
cold and frosty. Firewood was plentiful, supplied by drift wood brought
down by winter or spring floods, so with blazing fires and under the lee
of the pampa grass we slept warmly enough. It was necessary, however, to
keep a sharp look out on the horses, as pasturage was scanty. Before
daylight, after a slight consultation, Guenalto was given chief command,
and we again started; after following a winding valley for a short
distance and scrambling up a steep slope, we continued to ascend a hill
of considerable height and attained a more open country, the western
side of which was bounded by the Cordillera. In one of the valleys
bordering the mountains we came suddenly upon the Valdivians, driving
their cattle en route to return to their own country, Cheoeque having
sent orders to the Picunches occupying the country near, the only known
passes through the Cordillera, to allow them to traverse their district
unmolested; notwithstanding this precaution, they were by no means
certain that the Picunches would not ease them of the trouble of taking
care of their animals on their arrival in the neighbourhood of the
passes. Clearing this open country we again ascended a slight rise, at
the top of which grew a single apple tree in solitary majesty, but it
had been stripped long since of its fruit. Descending this one-tree
ridge we entered a cañon, and after half an hour's ride a sudden turn
brought the valley of the Rio Limay into view immediately below. Having
passed through the cañon, we halted on a slight eminence immediately
underneath the barranca bordering the southern side of the valley of the
river. From this cliff to the river bank, varying from about a mile to
half a mile in width, extended a grassy plain cut up here and there
by streams, and wooded at intervals. About a league to the west the
barranca blended with the declivities of high precipitous mountains,
and the river appeared to force its way from the south between steep
precipices before trending into the valley. On the northern side the
valley, though dotted here and there with clumps of trees, was more
open, and the distance to the barranca greater than that on the southern
side. Immediately opposite our post was situated the tolderia of some
of Inacayal's Indians, and grazing on the surrounding pastures cattle,
sheep, and numerous horses were visible. The river appeared to be of
very considerable width, but very rapid through the whole course of this
open valley. A mile west of the opening of the cañon three small islands
were descried, which Hinchel pointed out as the pass, or ford if it
deserves the name. We accordingly proceeded in that direction, and
taking off all unnecessary gear, strapping our mantles close up, or
wearing them like plaids over our shoulders, descended through the trees
and soon plunged into the river.
[Illustration: CROSSING THE RIVER LIMAY.]
The first part of the ford was deep, but the water then shallowed
on nearing the shore, and the velocity of the noisy stream greatly
increased. Still we arrived easily enough at the first island, but to
pass from that to the smaller one appeared at first to rather daunt even
the Tehuelches. The current was running like a millrace, and the waters
foamed over the uneven bottom with a rush and roar that rendered all
warnings inaudible. It was evident that only strong horses could
cross at all; but one or two bolder spirits dashed in, and although
unacquainted with the pass, reached the second island some distance
down the river in safety, so the remainder shortly followed, the women
crossing behind the men; here and there were places in the ford which
necessitated swimming, and in others were huge boulders, over which the
water swirled in large waves. At last we all reached the bank in safety,
and were met by some of Inacayal's Indians. Being among the lucky first
arrivals, I came in for some apples and other food that some of these
people of Inacayal's had thoughtfully brought with them from the toldos.
When all were mustered and had resumed their clothes, we started for the
toldos, where we were received by Inacayal, and as it was needful to
await those who had remained behind drinking, we bivouacked by the bank
of the river, and shortly some cattle and mares were brought up and
slaughtered to satisfy the cravings of our hunger. After bathing in the
river, I was sitting by the fireside watching our dinner cooking, when
I received a message to say that I was required in one of the toldos.
In that indicated I found an old Indian, a brother of Quintuhual, who
spoke fluent Spanish; he invited me to sit down, and then narrated that
an Englishman named Cox had formerly descended the river from Lake
Nahuel-huapi in a boat, but in trying to descend under cover of night,
had been wrecked in the rapids at the bend, about a mile above the ford
which we had recently crossed: he then took refuge among these Indians,
by whom he was hospitably received, and subsequently returned to
Valdivia across the mountains, being unable to proceed to Patagones. The
old Indian entertained a most friendly feeling for Mr. Cox, whom he had
known well, as he had remained several days in his toldo.
After talking some time about this, food was served, and he then
proceeded to ask my opinion as to the treatment the Indians experienced
from what he called the Spaniards, stating that the Chilians were
encroaching on one side and the Argentines on the other, by which means
the Indians must eventually be driven off the face of the earth, or else
fight for their existence.
After some more conversation I returned to our fireside accompanied by a
half-bred nephew of Inacayal, who had left Patagones some eight months
previously, having been 'wanted' by the Juez de Paz on account of his
having deserted from the army, and having further, in a quarrel, either
killed or wounded a Frenchman. He was anxious to induce me to use my
influence with Casimiro to allow him to join us, which I did not do for
the best of reasons, viz., that he appeared to be a great scoundrel, but
I volunteered to take a message to some of his friends in Patagones.
About midnight, bugle calls on the opposite side of the river indicated
the approach of the rest of the party, who arrived next day, but
Casimiro was in the bad temper customary with him after a debauch, and
steadily refused to proceed and take advantage of the fine weather; so
another day was spent in loitering about by the side of the river and
eating a great deal of beef.
My first cousins, who were also nephews of the old man who had formerly
been acquainted with Mr. Cox, started in company with him to procure
some apples and piñones, promising me plenty when they returned.
Meanwhile I made acquaintance with a Pampa Indian named Gravino, who
must have originally been a Christian captive; he himself stated that
his mother formerly resided near the settlements, and described her as
a Pampa Indian; on her death he, being about fifteen years of age, left
the settlements to join the Indians of her tribe, and had got but three
days on his journey when he met the united party of Tehuelches, Pampas,
and Araucanos, or, as he called them, Chilenos, under the cacique
Lenketrou, proceeding to make a raid on the settlements; he had nothing
for it but to turn back, and much against his will proceed to rob people
under whose protection he had formerly been. In the foray he, with
another youth of about his own age, succeeded in driving off a troop
of mixed horses and mares, but being dreadfully tired he laid down to
sleep in a retired place, having secured his riding horse by means of a
lazo attached to his own ancle. At night he was awoke by a stampede of
all the horses; and his own taking fright at the same time dragged him
some yards, until disentangled by his companion, who cut the lazo: they
then tried to secure their animals, but found that the Araucanians had
taken off all the best, so he did not make much by the invasion. He had
since been employed as a 'manso' or tame Indian in the service of the
Argentine Government, but disliking the work had returned to the Pampas
and married a relation of Inacayal's. He was a fine-looking young
fellow, neatly dressed in ponchos made, as he informed me, by his wife.
On the following day, amidst a storm of wind and rain, we started for
Las Manzanas. After ascending the northern barrancas of the river
valley, we traversed a level plain where a hunting circle was made for
form sake, as the ostriches were very scarce, and I only saw one killed;
and passing below, or rather to the N.E. of the hill before mentioned,
descended into a valley watered by a small stream; this we followed for
some distance, until we arrived at a point where another valley opened
into it, the two united forming one of considerable width. Here, under
the shelter of some trees, we halted and lit fires to warm ourselves,
for the drenching rain had by this time thoroughly forced its way
through our mantles. Whilst conversing and making as merry as possible
under the circumstances, a messenger dashed up, splashed with blood, and
with the effects of drink or furious excitement visible in his face.
All crowded round to hear the news, and he shortly informed us that
the party who had started to obtain apples on the previous day had
met another party of Indians with liquor. A drinking bout ensued, and
a quarrel occurred in which a man was killed; but the rest went on
drinking, leaving the body outside, where the dogs made a meal of
it. This so exasperated one of his comrades that he galloped off to
Cheoeque, to whose tribe the party belonged, and the chief at once sent
twenty-five horsemen to surround my cousins and demand payment for the
death. This they refused to give, so a fight took place, in which four
out of the five brothers and another were left for dead, with lance
thrusts all over them, the youngest escaping on his own or somebody
else's horse, after dropping four of the enemy who tried to intercept
him, with a revolver brought by me from Santa Cruz. This was bad news
for us, as we were bound to protect these people, who belonged to our
united Indians. A consultation took place, in the middle of which
Inacayal dashed up with a party all well armed with lances, in addition
to their other arms. Foyel's people came next, eager for the fray; the
Tehuelches, however, having an eye to business, in the way of bartering
the mantles they had brought with them for trade, overruled the warlike
ideas of these people, saying 'it was better to wait a little.'
Meanwhile guns were loaded and arms got ready, and a party were being
told off to proceed to the scene of the _mêlée_ and pick up the wounded,
when a messenger arrived from Cheoeque with proposals of a peace. I
and the rest of the relations of those who had been killed, as we then
supposed, were placed under a guard of Tehuelches for a short time until
the party started to find the wounded men. We then all proceeded a short
distance down the valley, and bivouacked in the pampa grass about a mile
and a half from, but out of sight of, the toldos of Cheoeque. Messengers
passed two or three times between the latter's residence and our
bivouac, and ultimately a very old woman came over and made a long
oration on the benefits of peace. This was all very well, but as both
parties were evidently suspicious of each other, a watch was kept in the
event of a surprise; and as we thought it probable that the negotiations
would fall through, we spent the night shivering round the fires and
making bolas perdidas. I assured Quintuhual and Casimiro that there
would be no fight, at which the latter grew very irate, saying he knew
better, that the whole business was a trap to obtain the gear and
firearms of our party, also stating that I did not understand these
Indians, in which I differed from him. Later in the evening news came,
that although fearfully cut about, none of 'my cousins' were dead; the
opposite party, however, had fared worse, losing three killed outright.
For six men to fight against twenty-five seems long odds, but I believe
that Quintuhual's and Foyel's people are the bravest Indians to be met
with in the southern part of America, fully deserving the proud title
of 'the Warrior Indians.'
The following morning at daylight all mounted their best horses, and
forming into column of six proceeded, with the lancers of the warriors
at our head, towards the toldos situated in a valley running at right
angles to the one we had rested in the previous night. On arriving in
sight of Cheoeque's ancestral halls, we observed the Araucanians or
Manzaneros forming into line and manœuvring about half a mile
distant; we approached to within 300 yards, and then forming into open
line to display our whole force (my proposal of hiding a reserve behind
an eminence having been overruled), awaited the course of events. Thus
we remained about half an hour watching the Manzaneros, who presented
a fine appearance, dressed in bright-coloured ponchos and armed with
their long lances; they manœuvred in four squadrons, each with
a leader--from whose lance fluttered a small pennon--moving with
disciplined precision, and forming line, wheeling, and keeping their
distances in a way that would not have discredited regular cavalry.
At the end of the half hour's suspense hostages were exchanged, and
we went through the ceremony of welcome. The Tehuelches were all very
excited, and being in the middle of the troop, when we formed column and
raced down towards the Manzaneros, I at first thought that we were in
for a general scrimmage. On arriving, however, at the line, our leaders
wheeled sharp round, and we went through the usual routine, with the
unpleasant exception that both sides had their guns and revolvers loaded
with ball, and every now and then a bullet would whistle past one's
ears or close over our heads. After the usual hand-shaking between
the chiefs, the great Cheoeque, an intelligent-looking man of some
thirty-five years of age, well dressed in blue cloth ponchos, a hat,
and leather boots, rode down our line, shaking hands with everybody and
making some remark. When he arrived at my number I felt rather ashamed
of my dress, a simple mantle not in a very good state of repair. He, on
his side, having asked who I was, appeared rather astonished at hearing
I was an Englishman, and having been further informed that I had written
the Spanish letters previously sent to him, which had been translated by
a Valdivian, stopped for some minutes conversing with me. After this
a parlemento took place, during which all remained mounted, and the
discussion lasted till sundown, by which time every one was very hungry.
The conclusions arrived at related chiefly to effecting a firm and
lasting peace amongst the Indians present, on which point a happy
unanimity prevailed. Another day was appointed for the discussion of
Casimiro's proposition for guarding Patagones, and the Chilian war
with the Indians farther north; also to consider Calficura's message
concerning a raid on Bahia Blanca, and the Buenos Ayrean frontier
generally.
One of the principal persons present at the parlemento was a chief
subordinate to Cheoeque, named Mafulko; a fine-looking old man,
magnificently dressed in ponchos which, as well as his arms, were
profusely ornamented, indeed almost covered, with silver; he was
remarkable for a most stentorian voice, which when raised in discussion
became an absolute roar, as of a bull of Bashan. He afterwards noticed
me particularly and was very courteous, pressing me to come and visit
him in his own country, which lay to the northward of the Snowy
Mountain.
In his train was a man who accosted me in pure Spanish, stating that he
had read and translated my letter, and warning me that these Indians
hated the name of Spaniard. Before I could make any inquiries he was
called away; but, when in Patagones, questions were asked as to an
unfortunate settler who was a captive and slave amongst the Araucanians,
and the description tallied exactly with that of the poor Spaniard. His
master was, doubtless, fearful of recognition and mediation on my part,
so hastened to interrupt our colloquy.
We dispersed and bivouacked in the neighbourhood of Cheoeque's toldos,
where animals were lazoed and slain for our immediate wants; and
Manzaneros and Picunche Indians came round bartering piñones, apples,
and now and then a little flour, for knives, bolas, &c. The piñones were
some in husks and some ready husked, the white almond-like kernels,
about the size of dates, being strung on threads; and, whether roasted
like chestnuts in their husks or boiled, proved delicious. The apples
also were deliciously fresh and juicy, and I considered a score of them
fairly purchased for a pair of bolas, although my comrades declared I
had been cheated by the Picunche thieves.
Towards evening Cheoeque sent over to say that, as it was late and
disturbances might occur, he considered it would be better not to allow
any liquor to be sold until the following day, when all arms might be
stored in a safe place, and anybody who felt disposed to get drunk might
do so with comfort. To this Casimiro agreed, further assuring me, in the
most positive manner, that _he_ would keep sober. Whilst we were sitting
by the fireside, a bird, exactly resembling our well-known nightjar,
flew over our heads, uttering its peculiar grating cry; the Indians all
looked startled, asserting that it was a sign of ill luck, and that
whenever this bird croaked in the vicinity of an assembly of people some
one was sure to fall sick or die. Their superstitious belief in the
ill-omened bird received a confirmation, for in the middle of the night,
while asleep by the fire, I was roused by Graviel, who, shaking my arm
and shouting 'Let us go, let us go!' rushed away from the fire-light
into the dark night. His father and myself followed him, and after a
long chase caught and, with difficulty, mastered him. He was raving mad,
struggling violently, and vociferating incoherent nonsense. When the fit
had passed off, his exhaustion and prostration were so great that all
thought he would die; but he recovered for the time.
At break of day we were all on the alert; and, as the evening previously
we had been too tired and hungry to observe the scenery, I proceeded
to reconnoitre the locality generally. To my great surprise, the
head-quarters of Cheoeque consisted but of four toldos, belonging to the
chief and his brother-in-law, the men who had received us having come
from distant residences unaccompanied by their wives, and bivouacking,
like ourselves, in the open air. The scene of the encampment was a
valley running east and west, the western end being apparently shut in
by some high mountains, spurs of the Cordillera. A good stream watered
this valley, which was everywhere more or less wooded: away to the
north-west, about four miles distant, the apple-groves might be seen;
these trees had, however, already been stripped of fruit, and it was
necessary to proceed much farther to the north to procure any; but
an expedition to visit that district and to get fruit, planned by
Orkeke, Hinchel, myself, and others, proved impracticable. Beyond the
apple-groves the place was also pointed out where the araucarias grow,
from which the piñones are gathered, just below the snow-clad mountains
we had viewed from the ridge above the Rio Limay, and about thirty miles
distant.
In our valley the pasture was rather scanty, although there appeared to
be sufficient for the three flocks of small sheep, each owned by one
of Cheoeque's wives, to get into good condition; but sheep will feed
anywhere. Immediately behind the toldos was situated a corral for
enclosing cattle, none of which, however, were visible, having, probably,
been driven off to some secluded valley near at hand, to avoid giving
our people a chance of helping themselves. Round this corral were
grouped the Indians of Cheoeque's tribe, and the Picunches with fruit,
&c. to barter; and between the corral and the river lay the bivouac
of the Tehuelches; our fireside being denoted by Casimiro's flag, the
colours of the Argentine Confederation. Up and down the valley, and even
about the neighbouring hills, were scattered our horses. Proceeding to
inspect the toldos, at which I had given but a cursory glance the night
before, I found that they were all fixed dwellings; that is to say,
not put together so as to be moved in marches, like those of the
Patagonians. They were, indeed, constructed in the same manner, but the
poles were much stouter, and the whole edifice more resembled a house.
Cheoeque's toldo was quite sixteen feet high, and able to accommodate
forty men; while three fires of huge billets of wood burned in the front
part. It was closed in completely, except a doorway in the corner with
a skin curtain by way of door; and along the front ran a species of
verandah, composed of interwoven branches, forming a pleasant canopy,
under the shade of which we sat and smoked. Inside, the bed-places were
raised on timber; and altogether, what with the sheep, corral, &c., the
place had such an air of civilisation about it that, with a small effort
of imagination, one might have fancied oneself in a frontier estancia of
the settlements. There were other toldos hidden amongst the trees on the
northern side of the valley, but these I did not visit.
About eight o'clock several loaded horses came in sight, bringing the
liquor which had been stowed away in the valley in which we had encamped
the night after the disturbance. As soon as the jars and skins had been
unloaded in Cheoeque's toldo, an order was passed round for all arms
to be given up, and after some little difficulty they were nearly all
collected and stowed in a safe place. The chiefs were then formally
invited to drink, and subsequently all comers were asked, the liquor
being provided in the most liberal manner by Cheoeque. This chief was
fully conscious of his high position and power; his round, jolly face,
the complexion of which, inherited from his Tehuelche mother, is darker
than that of his subjects, exhibited a lurking cunning, and his frequent
laughter was rather sardonic. He possessed a regally strong head, and
was disposed to despise Casimiro for his inebriety; in fact it was plain
that he regarded himself, and not without reason, as superior to all the
caciques, even though they were not subject to him.
Hinchel, myself, and many of the Araucanians had remained away; and I
was proceeding to look up the horses, when I was called to the corral
by some of the Picunches. These men presented a cast of countenance
decidedly differing from, and much inferior to, that of the Araucanians,
from whom they were easily distinguished by their darker complexions;
but they were very courteous, asking how I came to be with the
Tehuelches, and what sort of a place my country was; and were pleased
when I told them it was hilly and well wooded, and, referring to
Devonshire, that apples abounded. Of course all our conversation was
carried on by means of an interpreter (a Valdivian). After a few more
questions some rum was produced, and having taken a glass I mounted and
proceeded on my original quest. Hinchel rode a part of the way with me,
as he was bound in search of a former acquaintance, whose toldo was
pitched about four leagues distant, and who was, he said, the best
worker in silver amongst the Indians. I afterwards saw specimens
of his handiwork, in the shape of silver tubes for ornamenting
stirrup-leathers, and the appearance of these and other silver ornaments
made of solid metal in peculiar patterns, evidently of their own
devising, left little doubt in my mind that these Indians or some of
the neighbouring tribes possess the knowledge of the places whence the
precious ore is to be obtained, and smelt it themselves.
On returning after having counted and driven the troop of horses
belonging to our party down to the best pasture, I found that Cheoeque
had sent several messengers in search of me, so I at once proceeded to
his toldo, where I found him and Mariano Linares sitting on two real
chairs, the latter playing a guitar, Casimiro slightly inebriated and
vowing eternal friendship, and howling Indians, men and women, in
various stages of intoxication, all round. Cheoeque shook hands, invited
me to a seat, and provided me with a glass of grog out of his own
bottle, which it is needless to say was not watered like the remainder.
I then took advantage of a slight confusion occasioned by an Indian
wishing to embrace Cheoeque, and retired, but was intercepted, and had
to drink with various acquaintances before reaching the bivouac. As
our fireside was soon occupied by noisy, half-drunken Indians, amongst
others Hinchel's son, who, very drunk, had come to get his gun for
the purpose of killing the master of the revels, but was fortunately
overthrown and bound down by his father, who opportunely arrived, I
retired to Foyel's bivouac, where Gravino and others were keeping
guard, to be in readiness to look after their chief. He arrived soon
after midnight, much to their relief.
The jealousy existing between Foyel and Cheoeque, which had broken out
in the disturbance so nearly fatal to my cousins, had existed ever since
the migration of this chief and Quintuhual to the south, and all the
Araucanos of their following kept themselves on this occasion as much
as possible aloof, and abstained from sharing in the jovialities, while
the Tehuelches, who were unconcerned in the matter, enjoyed themselves
freely.
The next day Foyel and Quintuhual marched off their followers in regular
array, and proceeded homewards followed by many of the Tehuelches,
the great races which it had been settled to hold being abandoned in
consequence of the uneasy state of feeling and the consequent fears of
a quarrel: the fight in that case would have been an obstinate one,
as Cheoeque's forces would not have been much too strong for their
opponents, although outnumbering them. We had been surprised on arriving
not to find more Indians ready to receive us, as we only counted ninety
lances, but it transpired that some were concealed in the woods by
the side of the river, who did not appear; besides these seventy or a
hundred men had gone to Patagones to obtain their chief's ration of
cattle, but 200 more, friends and relations of Foyel, who were on their
march to the rendezvous at Las Manzanas, had turned back on hearing
of the attack made by Cheoeque's party on their friends, my cousins.
Whether they remained away in order to be neutral or to come to the
support of their kinsmen did not appear, but Foyel had frequently
boasted that 200 of Cheoeque's followers would espouse his quarrel. The
Picunches were the original cause of the feud. This tribe, asserted by
Antonio Guaitu, who gave them the name of Chollo, to be a branch of the
Araucanians, are under Cheoeque's dominion, though governed by local
caciques. As already mentioned, they live near the passes of the
Cordillera and plunder all travellers. They had not respected Foyel's
messenger bringing him stores from Valdivia, and at last forcibly
annexed two sheepskins of rum, on which occasion some fighting ensued.
Thereupon Foyel sent Cheoeque a defiant message to the effect that if
any more robberies by his subjects took place, he should make reprisals;
that the latter chief must have imagined that he (Foyel) had forgotten
how to ride and use his lance. All this was subsequently amicably
settled, but in the end Foyel, who was by right under the rule of
Cheoeque, preferred to throw off his allegiance and retire across the
Rio Limay. The chief reason alleged by him was that although Cheoeque
received large rations of cattle from the Buenos Ayrean Government, he
never thought fit to share them with his subordinate chiefs. How far
these stories were true I cannot say; as to the Picunches and their
subjection to Cheoeque, the Valdivians had been detained over a year
waiting for a safe conduct, which was at length obtained on the eve of
our arrival, and as far as could be afterwards ascertained, they passed
unmolested, although probably suffering loss of cattle from the weather,
as it was full late in the year to cross the passes, which during the
winter are obstructed by snow and swollen rivers.
Antonio and Ventura Delgado assured me they would have to cross one
river seven times owing to its tortuous windings, and on every occasion
be obliged to swim their animals. This I at first fancied to be a branch
of the Rio Limay, but in answer to other inquiries the Valdivians stated
that it flowed to the westward. _Apropos_ of this route, an enterprising
German had some short time previously crossed from Valdivia to trade
with the Indians; he was allowed to pass unmolested with all his
merchandise, and drove a profitable trade, and at last started on his
return journey with a goodly stock of horses and gear, but near the
passes he was stripped of everything and left to make his way homewards
on foot if possible. It was very tantalising to be so near Valdivia and
not to be able to explore the route thither and visit the Picunches,
and indeed Casimiro and myself had planned a trip from Las Manzanas,
but it was abandoned, owing to the lateness of the season and other
circumstances, combined with my own conviction that if the Cacique got
into Valdivia he would not be able to tear himself away from civilised
pleasures for too long a period.
After the drinking bout and the departure of Foyel's party, a day
devoted to trading intervened, political discussions being postponed in
consequence of the indisposition of Casimiro, who required twenty-four
hours to recover from the effects of Cheoeque's hospitality. Our
Tehuelches, thanks to the profuse generosity of Cheoeque, disposed
of all their wares to advantage, and became the happy possessors of
numerous horses, silver ornaments, and mandils. Had it been necessary
for them to purchase liquor, they would have returned empty-handed and
in bad tempers. The Manzaneros appeared to depend on the Tehuelches for
their supply of toldo coverings, just as the latter in their turn must
procure from them the woven mandils and ponchos. I noticed that the
horses brought up for sale by the Manzaneros more resembled those used
in the Argentine States than the breed common amongst the Tehuelches,
showing finer points and greater speed for racing on flats, but being
inferior in the staying powers requisite for hunting.
The second parlemento or council, attended by numerous chiefs, was duly
held, in which Mariano Linares, brother of the chief of the Indians in
pay of the Government, participated. He was a connection by marriage of
Cheoeque's, and had been despatched from Patagones to induce him to keep
the peace. The speeches of the Araucanos were made in a peculiar chant,
intoned in fact, in a manner closely resembling that I have since heard
in some churches at home. Cheoeque thus intoned an harangue setting
forth how chiefs had come to him from Araucania proper, soliciting his
aid in the war with Chili. He had at first refused to receive them, but
at last had heard what they had to say, and it was probable that he
might send a small force to assist his countrymen.
Calficura's message relating to the foray on the settlements had been
forwarded to us already. Many speeches were made, and Linares and
Casimiro pointed out that it was to the Cacique's interest not to
interfere, as he would inevitably lose the valuable supplies of horses
and cattle given him by the Buenos Ayrean Government, and that it was
more profitable to receive the annual rations than plunder and break up
the Rio Negro settlements. Finally, it was unanimously resolved that
a message should be sent to Calficura, desiring him to confine his
hostilities to Bahia Blanca, and that Cheoeque should protect the north
bank of the Rio Negro and guard Patagones on that side, while Casimiro
guaranteed the southern, which arrangement was duly adhered to on both
sides. Accordingly Calficura revenged his real or supposed injuries on
the 'Cristianos' by two destructive inroads into Bahia Blanca, carrying
off plunder and captives. But letters from the Rio Negro have informed
me that peace had been restored, and an exchange or ransom of prisoners
effected. This will be more fully dwelt upon, but it is mentioned here
in order to show that the Indians are fully aware of the advantages of
peace, though they are undoubtedly, the Araucanians especially, jealous
of the encroachments of foreigners, and the traditions of their
past history have caused them to hold the very name of Spaniard or
'Cristiano' in abhorrence. It is also difficult for the superior
caciques in all cases to restrain the petty caciquillos from small
depredations; but a fair and well-arranged system of 'rations' will
prevent them from making forays, and it is much to be regretted that
the well-intentioned and liberal plans of the Buenos Ayrean Government
for the protection of the frontiers are too often thwarted by the
unscrupulous agents who enrich themselves by appropriating the supplies
intended for the Indians. Some may consider the method of keeping the
chiefs quiet by pensions undignified; but it is certainly a more humane
and economical policy than continual wars of reprisals, which in the end
would lead to the extermination either of the Indians or the settlers,
most probably the latter, and the certain impoverishing of the country.
After the parlemento a grand banquet was given by Cheoeque to all the
assembled caciques and their sons. Over three huge fires in his spacious
toldo, large iron pots were supported on tripods, containing beef,
mutton, and horse flesh. The guests sat down as they could, while
Cheoeque sat, as the Spaniards say, 'on horseback' on a chair in the
middle of the toldo, dressed in a magnificent cat skin mantle, and
holding a 'revengue' or hide whip in his hand, with which he ever and
anon chastised an intrusive dog, or even one of his numerous sons if
they came too near, or made too much noise.
The small boys were evidently used to it, and showed great agility in
avoiding a blow, and equal unconcern if they received it. The chief's
three wives presided at the fires, and wooden platters loaded with large
portions of meat and a due allowance of fat were handed round for the
first course. Each guest was expected to consume all that was in the
platter, and when cleared it was carried off, washed, and refilled for
another. The second course consisted of apples and piñones, raw or
cooked according to taste, and it was strict etiquette to eat or pocket
all the fruit supplied. Water was handed round after the feed, no other
drink being produced save a private bottle, from which the chief helped
two or three of his most favoured guests. There must have been at least
thirty present at once, and there were ample room and abundant supplies.
And subsequently a succession of guests of less distinction were fed;
all the Tehuelches as well as Araucanos and Picunches being maintained
during their stay by the chief.
I was very much struck with the obedience and respect evinced by these
people towards their Cacique. His authority extends as far north as
Mendoza, over hundreds of Indians, residing in fixed tolderias, some few
in the valley near Manzanas, but the chief part more to the northward,
near the groves of araucarias. But the power of the chief is absolute,
and his word is law to his most distant subjects. At an order from
him they leave their toldos, wives, and children, and repair mounted,
and ready for any service, to his head-quarters. His wealth is
considerable: besides the numerous flocks and herds, one of the toldos
was used simply as a treasury, where his stores of silver ornaments,
ponchos, mantles, &c., were safely stowed away.
I was present in his toldo at the arrival of a messenger. The Indian,
who had evidently come from a long distance, did not venture to enter
until commanded to do so, when, with the utmost respect, he took his
seat at a distance from the chief, communicated his message, received
his orders, and retired; when again ready for the road he appeared to
receive final instructions, after which he mounted his horse and rode
off without more ado.
The subordinate caciques, whose office and rank are hereditary, appeared
to be finer and more intelligent men than the rank and file. Whether
this was owing to a difference of race, or merely to their aristocratic
descent and hereditary refinement of features and bearing, I cannot say;
but their superiority was very marked; whereas among the Tehuelches no
such difference between the caciques and their clansmen is observable.
The superiority of these semi-civilised Araucanos to their southern
neighbours was evident in every way, save only bodily strength. Their
residence in a more fertile country, near the apple and araucaria
groves, gives them great advantages over the nomad Patagonians. They
cultivate wheat, small quantities of which were brought to us for sale;
besides storing the natural harvest of piñones and apples, from which,
as before stated, they brew cider of unusual strength, and also distil
'pulco,' an intoxicating liquor, from the algarroba bean. My intercourse
with both Foyel's people and those at Manzanas was not sufficiently long
to enable me to become conversant with their language and customs, which
have been described by others. The language, of which I learnt a few
words, seemed softer and more melodious, as well as possessing a more
copious vocabulary, than the guttural Tehuelche, and appeared to me
closely akin to the Pampa tongue; but Jackechan, who could speak both,
and Gravino, strongly insisted on the distinction between the two
dialects. Their personal habits were excessively neat and cleanly, the
morning bath never being omitted by men, women, and children, who all
regularly trooped down to the water just before dawn; and their dress
was much more carefully attended to than that of the Patagonians. I had
no opportunity of witnessing their religious ceremonies, but was assured
that they are worshippers of the sun, and there was no vestige of idols
of any sort possessed by them. Their ceremonials on occasions of births,
&c., were very similar to those of the Tehuelches, save that the
'doctor' appeared on such occasions more elaborately adorned with
various colours.
When Quintuhual's niece was sick, her brother enacted the part of
'wizard,' duly painted and adorned with a head-dress of feathers.
Instead of a mandil tent, a screen of ponchos hung over posts was
erected, and all the finery of the family displayed. I was a guest at
the feast of slaughtered mares, but was not present at the previous
proceedings, as by this time the restraints of dignity as a caciquillo
forbade my wandering about as an idle spectator.
They were invariably scrupulous not to commence a meal without first
throwing broth or a small piece of meat on the ground, at the same time
muttering a charm to propitiate the Gualichu, and they are generally
more superstitious and more fearful of witchcraft than even the other
Indians. They have some knowledge of precious stones, and seem to
attribute certain virtues to them. Thus Foyel possessed what seemed to
be a magnificent rough turquoise, which he was on the point of bestowing
on me, when his wife and brother-in-law interposed some remark, upon
which he apologised, saying that he did not like to part with it, as
it had been long in the family. They object strongly, however, to any
strangers picking up stones as specimens, or appearing to 'prospect' in
any way, which, being forewarned by Ventura Delgado, I was especially
careful to avoid. Mons. Guinnard has given a description of some of
their games, differing from those in vogue among the Tehuelches, as for
instance gambling with black and white beans. Casimiro is my authority
for stating that this people preserve the singular custom of abduction
in marriage. The intending bridegroom does not trouble himself to obtain
the consent of the bride, but having paid the fixed dowry or price to
her parents, he gallops up, and forcibly seizing the girl carries her
off before him to the bush, whence, after an enforced honeymoon of two
days, they return as man and wife to his dwelling. This, however, is
not the practice in the case of the marriage of a cacique's daughters.
Polygamy is allowable: thus the great Cheoeque possessed three wives,
the chief favourite, whose amiable good-humour deserved the honour,
occupying the central place in the toldo; but all three lived in perfect
harmony and took care of each other's children with impartial affection.
These Araucanos are, as I have said, apt to kidnap or buy captives,
and I am inclined to suspect that there is a scarcity of women amongst
them, of which the exterminating cruelties practised towards women and
children by the frontier 'Cristianos' is a probable cause. They are
certainly more dangerous to strangers than the Southern Indians, and it
is unsafe to venture amongst them without proper safe conducts from the
cacique.
To myself Cheoeque offered permission to travel directly north
through the interior of the country as far as the Argentine Provinces,
guaranteeing my safety; and the temptation was only resisted by
reflecting on the necessity of keeping faith with my Tehuelche friends
by proceeding to Patagones. He also gave me a cordial invitation to
return, and an assurance that I should be always welcomed as a friend.
All our business, both commercial and political, being concluded, and
the farewell banquet over, Cheoeque distributed gifts of horses, &c.,
among the Tehuelches in return for the numerous presents he had received
from them. As a set-off to a set of gold studs, he presented me with
one of the peculiar lances always used by his people, about fifteen to
eighteen feet long and very light, the shaft being made of a cane, which
grows in the Cordillera forests, strongly resembling a bamboo, and of
the thickness of the butt of a stout pike rod. This present, by the way,
caused me to commit a breach of etiquette. I placed it leaning against
the toldo, and was at once requested to remove it, as it was a sign of
war, though whether it was regarded as a challenge or an omen was not
clear; but I was instructed that the lance must either be laid down on,
or planted upright in the ground. Another lance was also bestowed on
Casimiro, besides numerous horses and other valuables. We took leave of
the powerful Cheoeque, and of Linares, with whom, as it had been settled
that I should proceed as chasqui, I made an agreement to meet in
Patagones, and on the 11th started on our return to the toldos, all in
high satisfaction at the success of our visit. The natural exultation of
Casimiro was much lessened by the continual illness of his son Graviel,
on whom a careful watch had to be kept to restrain him, in the event of
his being attacked by another paroxysm of madness.
Riding up the valley where we had slept the night previous to arriving
at Cheoeque's, we observed some cattle in the thicket on the borders
of the stream; part of the herd belonging to the chief, which had been
stowed away in various secluded parts of the neighbourhood. We crossed
the barren high pampa, and descended, about one o'clock, to the banks
of the Rio Limay, bivouacking in the same spot as on our journey to Las
Manzanas, close to Inacayal's toldos. Here we found Orkeke and a good
many other Tehuelches; also the four wounded men, two of whom were
already on the high road to recovery.
We proceeded to Inacayal's toldo at his personal request, where we
remained until evening was drawing on, when cattle were brought up,
caught, and slain, and divided amongst the chiefs. Whilst busy shaving
a piece of hide wherewith to make some gear, I received a message from
Orkeke, whose fire was situated at perhaps a hundred paces from ours,
that he wished to see me when disengaged, and after supper I strolled
down, and found the veteran sitting loading his pipe. After a smoke,
he invited me to accompany him to inspect his newly-acquired troop of
horses, and show him which I considered to be the best. I picked out
a young white animal that had belonged to Cheoeque's own stud. 'Very
well,' he replied; 'take him; he is yours; I never made you any return
for the revolver you gave me in Teckel.' Although I did not require the
horse, it would have been insulting to refuse it, so I walked off with
my racer in tow. This little incident is mentioned to correct the notion
entertained by some that the greed of gain is a predominant feature in
the Indian character.
The following morning we bid adieu to Inacayal and his people, and
turned our horses' heads for the pass of the river Limay, which was
if possible more swollen and rapid than on the previous occasion; but
we all crossed in safety, although Casimiro's and my horse fell once,
fortunately where the water was shallow. Everybody, however, got
thoroughly wet, and a continual downfall of rain coming on, prevented
all chance of drying our mantles. We marched back by a route lying to
the westward of that we had before followed, passing under and amongst
the high wooded mountains, on the heights of which every now and then we
could perceive a condor sitting in majestic solitude, looking down on us
like a priest from a pulpit.
About four P.M. the rain cleared off, and we bivouacked in a grassy
valley, with incense and other bushes growing on the sides. Here,
owing to the sickness of Graviel and another of our party, we passed a
miserable time, not even being able to get dry; and in addition to our
previous discomfort, towards evening a frost set in, and when I woke up
about midnight to look round for the horses my mantle was like a board.
I kindled a fire, as the weather was now clear, and soon all the party
were huddled round it to warm their half-frozen limbs before lying down
again.
The next morning at daylight, thoroughly chilled and hungry, two of
us started to fetch the horses, some of the new ones having, as we
expected, found their way back to within a few miles of the Rio Limay.
However, by the time the sun had risen to sufficient height to give some
warmth, we had caught up the others of our party, and not sparing our
horses, by two o'clock had passed through the street of rocks and come
in sight of the toldos, where we shortly arrived.
Before sunset all the Tehuelches had returned to the bosoms of their
families, and all were glad to sleep under the shelter of a toldo once
more, after having passed twelve days and nights in stormy weather
without any covering save our mantles.
The 14th of April, the morning after our return, a complaint was made
by Foyel's people that the Tehuelche Indians left behind, thinking
it useless to proceed to the plains, some miles distant, to hunt for
the supply of the toldos whilst cattle and sheep were grazing in the
immediate vicinity, had helped themselves in the obscurity of the night.
Meña corroborated the fact; and although he had been away hunting
with the greatest assiduity, he had met with but little success, and
complained bitterly of the hungry times they had endured.
Soon after our arrival Kai Chileno was seized with illness, and in a few
days several of the more aged and children sickened with headache and
fever, showing all the symptoms of severe influenza. Alarmed lest the
sickness should spread, on the 16th of April most of the Tehuelches
struck toldos and took the road leading to Patagones; but our toldo and
another remained behind on account of the continued illness of Graviel
and the others. Towards evening of the same day we suddenly heard shouts
and cries in the toldos of Foyel, and all except Casimiro, who sat quite
still by the fireside, rushed to seize their arms, naturally thinking
that a party had arrived to fight from Las Manzanas. After a little
suspense we observed a line of men advancing towards our toldos on foot,
shouting, firing, and brandishing their arms. Casimiro, who was having
a quiet laugh at us, then explained that they were only fighting the
sickness. The party advanced to our toldo, beating the back of it with
their lances, to scare away the Gualichu, and then retired.
We all had a good laugh over this affair; and I was amused to hear Meña,
who was an intelligent youth, arguing that the Indians were quite right,
as sickness never attacked an armed man.
We lived chiefly on air the last four days of our stay in Geylum, as
no hunting was done; but Foyel, after learning our wants, came to the
rescue, presenting me with a couple of sheep, which I received with
gratitude, and divided amongst the party.
It had been intended that his party should accompany the Tehuelches
to Patagones, but as it would be necessary to leave their women and
children in Geylum with only a few boys to take care of the flocks and
herds, and they were not confident as to the pacific intentions of the
Manzaneros, he and Quintuhual considered it more advisable to remain
for the present in their camp, and afterwards, by riding in fast,
to overtake our party en route previous to their arrival in the
settlements.
I bid an affectionate adieu to Miss Foyel, who had always shown me the
greatest kindness, and the natural grace of whose manners would have
adorned a civilised drawing-room. Her parting words were an invitation
to return if possible and pay another visit to the toldo, where I had
been made to feel myself at home.
Her father asked me to procure him a grinding organ, as Casimiro had
informed him that he had seen music made by turning a handle. I promised
to get one if I could, and after a cordial farewell returned to our
toldo, as we intended going away at daylight on the 17th.
Accordingly we prepared for a start; and a boy came over from the other
toldos to join us. He was a Tehuelche, whose father had been killed on
suspicion of witchcraft, and being a remote connexion of Casimiro's, had
claimed his protection, which of course was granted, and he (Casimiro)
had agreed to take him with us, informing him that he was to act as my
page, look after my horses, &c., and make himself generally useful. This
was a very fine idea, but one glance at the face and figure of this
illustrious youth was sufficient to show me that I should probably spend
my time in looking after him, and a more mischievous imp I never
saw. When told that he might catch one of my horses to travel on, he
immediately fixed on the wrong one, a horse that I had myself barely
mounted for perhaps six weeks, in order to get it into condition for the
journey into Patagones.
This horse he caught, and came down to the toldos at full gallop over
rocks, stones, and bushes, with a grin of delight on his face. After
being warned in mild terms that he was not to ride that horse, which I
took from him and turned loose, he proceeded to catch one of Casimiro's,
which he treated in the same manner, but at length got the right one,
and then, without saying 'With your leave, or by your leave,' galloped
off, yelling at the top of his voice, to follow the road which the
Indians had taken the previous day.
We were about to start ourselves when, at the last moment, Quintuhual
sent to say that he wished to have a council. So Casimiro and myself
remained in the pouring rain squatting on the grass listening to a
repetition of what we had heard the previous day.
When the council was concluded a sheep was brought up and killed. The
poor beast was lashed to a post with its head looking to the sky, and
the throat being cut, salt was forced into the wound, the lip of which
was compressed _secundum artem_, in order to flavour the blood and
lungs, &c., which formed the repast. All the girls then crowded round,
each preferring a request to us to bring a little yerba, flour, sugar,
&c., from the settlements, till, our horses being ready, mine having
been additionally burdened with the dead mutton by way of provisions for
the road, we extricated ourselves from the crowd, and amidst repeated
injunctions, charges, and affectionate farewells, got away, and towards
4 P.M. started to overtake the now distant cavalcade.