an university, bishop's see, and a city! Here is a handsome stone
bridge of twelve arches, erected across the river by the munificence
of the Devonshire family, to whom the castle and estate belong; the
castle now undergoing a complete repair. On the approach towards the
town of Lismore the road falls into a beautiful glen which proceeds
in a winding direction; whilst the sides of the mountains by which
it is formed, are clothed with a profusion of oak and ash. A stream
of considerable size, which discharges itself into the Blackwater
at the town, runs through the glen, and adds considerably to its
beauties. This fine scenery lasts for about two miles. Near the
town are the remains of the immense Castle once the residence of
the brave but unfortunate Sir Walter Raleigh. It is an interesting
object, and appears once to have been a place of some strength, boldly
situated on the verge of a rocky hill, rising almost perpendicularly
to a considerable height over the river Blackwater, upon which the
principal window of the great room of the Castle looks down, and from
whence, it is said, James II. started back with horror. This Castle is
of very high antiquity, having been built by King John upon the ruins
of the Abbey of St. Carthagh. Dr. Smith, speaking of the view from the
great window of the Castle, observes, that "opposite to it there opens
a wide glen wooded on both sides, and pleasantly watered by a small
river which, at the distance of a mile, winds off to the west side of
the great mountain of Knock-mill-down, 4 m. N. from it, and which
exactly facing this window appears like a vast cone or sugar-loaf. To
the west is a full prospect of the salmon-fishery, where the weirs are
of a considerable length, traversing the river,--the working and the
noise of the water through them (that here runs pretty rapid) forms a
kind of artificial cataract, and resembles the sound of such, which,
though not high, is of a considerable extent, and adds a lulling
softness to the beauty of the scene. Above the weirs, the sides of the
river are beautifully variegated with woods, lawns, and cornfields."
See the old Cathedral fitted up as a modern Ch. See view from the
noble bridge, particularly pointed out by Mr. Curwen, exhibiting the
majestic rock on which the Castle stands, the valley on the S. side
of the river, which, though confined, is extremely luxuriant, and the
hills rising boldly on the northern bank towards Cappoquin. Sir R. C.
Hoare observes, that though the scenery on the Blackwater cannot be
compared with that on the Wye, the Dart, or the Tamar, in England,
yet he is inclined to think it cannot, for the long continuance of 20
m., be surpassed or even rivalled by any other stream in Ireland. It
affords some good subjects, he adds, for the portfolio; of which the
most striking and best adapted to the pencil are those at Balinatry,
Strancally, and Dromana; but all must yield to Lismore. The tourist
will find a good inn and a good salmon fishery. Aglish, 4 m. S.E., is
near Dromana, already noticed under Dungarvon. See ruins of ancient
Castle; also ruins of venerable Abbey, 1 m. Cappoquin, 2 m. across
the Blackwater, has a wooden bridge and ruins of ancient Castle,
with a most enchanting and extensive prospect. Curwen describes it
as a small neat town, with several handsome seats ornamented with
timber and very picturesque scenery in its vicinity. Sir R. C. Hoare
recommends to notice Dromana House, rising perpendicularly from a rock
completely covered with trees; the character of that bend of the river
being richness, with cultivated lands decked with trees, and distant
mountains: also Turin, a modern house on an old Castle, seat of Mr.
Kane, a finely wooded dingle in front backed with lofty mountains;
ruined Ch. on the left; flat islands planted with willows; quarries
of limestone, one fine mass of which bounds the river on the left.
Modeligo, 7 m. E., has ancient Castles of the Magraths. Oon a mort
is a small cave, similar to that of Con-a-glour. Strancally is 6 m.
S. towards the mouth of the river, with ancient Castle and curious
cave, respecting which there are some horrid legends: and near it the
handsome seat of Headborough, with venerable ruins of Molana Abbey.
Tallagh, 6 m. S.W., is a poor decayed village, with Lessfinny Castle
near to it.
WATERFORD, 75 m. S. of Dublin, is episcopal and collegiate.--From
Carrick-on-Suir to this place the road passes through a district which
exhibits a great variety of picturesque views along the banks of
that river. From the nature of the situation, the city itself is not
seen until the traveller is within a short distance of it, standing
apparently in the bottom of a basin, with the Suir, about a mile
broad and crowded with shipping, flowing close to its side. See the
noble quay, about 1 m. in length, with a wooden bridge which has a
drawbridge in the centre, adding much to the beauty and convenience
of the city. Elegant modern Cathedral. Handsome episcopal Palace. 3
Parish Ch. 4 Catholic Chapels. Court-House, erected on Black-friars
Monastery. Tholsel. Gaol. Custom-House. Exchange. Coffee-Rooms.
Assembly Rooms, and Theatre. Remains of Franciscan Friary. The
earliest remnant of antiquity to be seen here, is a circular tower
situated in the eastern angle of the city walls, said to be the work
of a Danish chieftain in 1003, and (after him) called Reginald's
Tower. The bridge is constructed of American oak. It is 832 feet
long, 42 broad, has two sets of piers, each of seven pieces, besides
cut-waters. The longest pile driven was 70 feet; the depth at low
water is 37 feet, and the rise of the highest tides is 17 feet.
Here is an existing Catholic Monastery. See the Woollen and Glass
Manufactories; also Clonegan Tower, 72 feet high, erected by the late
Marquis of Waterford to the memory of his son. Carrickbeg, 12 m. W.,
opposite to Carrick-on-Suir, has ruins of Franciscan Friary, with a
leaning steeple. Whilst in this vicinity the tourist will be gratified
by a ride over the large demesne of Curraghmore, which in many parts
commands the most extensive prospects of the surrounding country. Mr.
Wakefield notices that from the tower the eye can trace the Suir the
whole way to Waterford, while the ocean, stretched out along the coast
on the S., forms in the remote part of the picture a very fine object.
The house is seen to most advantage in front, as it is backed by wood
which exhibits very grand scenery. There are some good paintings. The
demesne is stated by Mr. W. to contain 2800 acres, of which nearly
one half is covered with wood. The whole of this extended property
is surrounded by walls; and it excels in mountain scenery and woody
wildness. Kilmanahan Castle, a mansion recently erected on the site of
an ancient Castle, and preserving the old style of architecture, which
gives it a very venerable appearance, rising from the summit of a rock
at a bending of the Suir, which here divides the two counties. This
position gives it the advantage of a very extensive prospect; and Mr.
Wakefield declares that grandeur, united with elegance, renders this
one of the completest residences that he had ever seen. Here too the
Suir runs with great rapidity, and is seen rolling his waters beneath
well wooded banks, with the Galtees mountains in the distance. Visit
Kilmeaden Castle, Ch. and Spa. Passage is the place of embarkation
for the Milford Haven packets, with ruins of Ch. and most extensive
prospect from Faithleag-hill. Good inns. Tramore, 6 m. S., is an
excellent bathing-place; delightful village, with neat Assembly Room
and all the usual accommodations.
MINERALS.
Granite is the basis; and here has been found a stratum of clay equal
to that of Stourbridge for glass-house pots.
BOTANY.
_Allium carinatum_, Purple-flowered Mountain Garlic:--on pasture lands.
_Althæa officinalis_, Marsh Mallow:--in the isles of Icane.
_Asplenium Adiantum nigrum_, Common Black Maiden Hair:--on mountains.
_Carex dioica_, Small Carex:--in bogs.
_Carum Carui_, Caraway:--in meadows and pastures:--near Woodhouse in
the parish of Stradbally.
_Canvallaria majalis_, Lily Convally or May Lily:--in a wood near the
river Collygan.
_Crithmum maritimum_, Samphire:--on sea cliffs.
_Cucubalus otites_, Spanish Catchfly:--in a grove near Lismore, near
the Blackwater river.
_Daphne Laureola_, Spurge Laurel:--in a wood near Mogehy in the parish
of Whitchurch.
_Drosera longifolia_, Long-leaved Sundew:--on a bog near Ballycaroge.
_Eryngium campestre_, Common Eryngo:--in the sand near Youghal harbour.
_Gladiolus communis_, (Linn.) Sword Grass or Corn Flag:--at the upper
end of the Conegary, at Dungarvon.
_Imperatoria Ostruthium_, Masterwort:--on Slatwood Hill near Lismore,
and Tallow.
_Menyanthes trifoliata_, Buckbean:--on bogs.
_Osmunda regalis_, Osmund Royal, or Flowering Fern:--near Ballycaroge.
_Peucedanum officinale_, Hog's Fennel, or Sea Sulphurwort:--in the
barony of Gualtier.
_Polemonium cæruleum_, Greek Valerian, or Jacob's Ladder:--on a bank of
the Blackwater between Cappoquin and Lismore.
_Polygonum Bistorta_, Greater Bistort or Snakeweed:--on Slatwood-hill
near Lismore, and Tallow.
_Solidago Virga aurea_, A variety of common Golden Rod:--on
Cushean-hill near Dungarvon.
_Spiræa filipendula_, Dropwort:--on Cumeragh mountains.
WESTMEATH
Is an inland county, not very large, but extremely rich in verdure,
mostly flat, though in some places pleasingly intersected with hills,
many of which are finely wooded. In short, if not so picturesque as
many other districts, yet the tourist will not be in want of subjects
for his portfolio, as it contains many lakes pleasingly fringed with
rich plains and wooded scenery. Bounded N. by Cavan; E. by Eastmeath;
S. by King's County; W. by Roscommon and the Shannon; and N.W. by
Longford.
ATHLONE, 20 m. S.W. of Mullingar, stands pleasantly on the Shannon,
with fine scenery, particularly in Lough Ree. Formerly rich in
antiquities; but almost all destroyed by fire in the civil wars,
though now a town of considerable extent, and nearly in the centre of
Ireland. In the town there is a strong Castle defended by numerous
guns. See the pontoon or floating bridge, consisting of between 30 and
40 boats. Examine chalybeate spa. Many beautiful prospects between
this and Ballymenach. Inquire for ruins of Monastery at Drumrany, or
Drumrath; also at Kilkenny West, a small village. At Maghretibot, or
the Field of Theobald, see the field of battle where Sir Theobald de
Verdon fell in a contest with the Irish clans. Moatagrenoge, 8 m.
S.E., has an excellent inn as a station for those who wish to explore
this district, where there are the ruins of numerous old Castles,
a good modern Ch., a seat of Lord Sunderlin at Ballinabon, and the
venerable remains of Garey Castle.
BALLYMORE, midway between Athlone and Mullingar, has several objects
worth seeing. Village small. Ch. neat: ruins of Castle; also of
Killinney Castle near it. Lough Scudy has on its banks the ancient
Monastery of Plassey.
CASTLETOWN DELVIN, 12 m. N.E. of Mullingar, is a small village, but
a good station for several objects in its district. Near it is the
ancient baronial seat of the Earls of Westmeath; of which a part is
standing, consisting of an oblong square, with a lofty circular tower
at each corner. Near it is a large Danish rath. See, in its vicinity,
Baronston, the seat of Lord Sunderlin, a magnificent mansion,
including the wings, 300 feet in front, seated in the midst of a
considerable park, embosomed in excellent plantations, and surrounded
by a charming country, richly diversified with lakes, hills, and
mountain scenery. Clonmellon has an elegant Ch., with a steeple and
spire, of modern erection, but in imitation of the Gothic. See small
lakes to the N.W.
FORE, 9 m. N. of Mullingar, deserves a visit on account of Lough Lane
in its immediate vicinity. See the ruined Ch. of Clonarney, and that
of Archerstown, near a new-built seat of Mr. Battersby; also a seat
of Mr. Smith. Between Archerstown and Fore, Sir R. C. Hoare notices
a tumulus which appears to be sepulchral, surrounded by a fosse, but
not so exactly executed as those on Salisbury Plain. But Fore also
interests by its own ruins of parish churches, walls, and gateways,
with the shell of a spacious Monastery seated in the vale below,
dedicated to St. Fechin, first built in 630, and re-founded in 1209.
Sir R. G. Hoare states that this Monastery presents a large pile of
simple and unornamented masonry; the Chapel is still in a tolerable
state of preservation, and has three narrow pointed windows. Lough
Lane (already mentioned) a large piece of water with three wooded
islands upon it: it produces good trout and pike. The scenery is not
very romantic, for the banks are flat, but well cultivated. On its N.
side the waters penetrate under the rock, and reappear on the opposite
side of a hill near Fore, where they turn a mill. To the S. of the
lake, at a short distance, is a raised earthen work, commonly called
the "Fort of Turgesius," a chieftain of great military renown with
the old historians. He lived in the ninth century. If any reliance
can be placed upon topographical derivations, this vicinity must
once have had a very literary character; for _Foure_ signifies the
_town of books_, and _Lough Lane_, the _lake of learning_! This lake
gives birth to two rivulets, which discharge themselves into the sea
on opposite sides of the island. There are fine rides through the
well cultivated country in its vicinity, especially in the road to
Rochford, commanding in succession a view of a pleasing lake, Lough
Derrin; the "Crooked Wood," a hill so distinguished for its foliage,
though now denuded; and the beautiful wooded hill of Knockdrin. See
Castle Pollard, and Pakenham Hall; also Loughs Armagh and Drin.
KILBEGGAN, 10 m. S. of Mullingar, is a pleasant village, with good
river scenery in the Brosne. Some remains of Monastery. The artist may
here find amusement.
KINNEGAD, 10 m. E. of Mullingar, is a mere village, but has excellent
accommodations for the wanderer. On a hill near to it see ruins of
Ardmullan Castle; also Kilbride Pass, where are ruins of ancient Ch.
and two Castles.
MULLINGAR, 34 m. W. of Dublin, is the shire-town, with good
accommodations. Some ruins of a Dominican friary; also Baronston, the
seat of Lord Sunderlin, may be visited from this place. See beautiful
Ch. recently erected. The statistical tourist will do well to consult
_Curwen's Letters_, vol. ii. p. 249. Inquire for Horse-leap, 6 or 8
m. S., where are some remains of a very stately Castle built by Sir
Hugh de Lacy, one of the earliest English adventurers; and another
2 m. distant. To the N. inquire for the beautiful demesne and
elegant mansion of the Nugents, with remains of a venerable Castle
in vicinity. To see Lough Derryveragh in perfection, go to Wilson's
Hospital, delightfully situated between that and Lough O'Whel, or
Hoyle. From the Hospital notice charming view of Lord De Blaquiere's
residence and the romantic lake scenery, with a prospect over five
counties. The Hospital is supposed to be in the centre of Ireland;
its revenues are large. About 2 m. from Mullingar, from an eminence,
there is a most extensive prospect of Lough O'Whel and Lough Ennel,
looking towards Belvidere, which has the celebrity of being one of
the most enchanting spots in the island. Lough Ennel lies between
Mullingar and Kilbeggan, and is pretty extensive, its eastern banks
decorated by many gentlemen's seats. Near this is the late Lord
Belvidere's seat, at Belvidere, perched on the crown of a beautiful
little hill, half surrounded with others, variegated, and melting into
one another. Lough Ennel, many miles in length and two or three broad,
flows beneath the windows, spotted with islets, whilst a promontory of
rock fringed with trees starts into it; the whole bounded by distant
hills. "Greater and more magnificent scenes are often met with, but no
where a more beautiful or a more singular one." Multifarnam possesses
the magnificent ruins of an Abbey of Franciscans, highly interesting
for its connection with a most important period of Irish history. When
the monasteries were dissolved, this abbey was given to an alderman
of Dublin, one of whose successors permitted the friars to assemble
here again, with a splendour nearly equal to their former state,
having their organ and choristers in the Ch., with fine apartments
for themselves, barracks for soldiers, and a large establishment for
the reception of those who chose here to seek for shelter; and it is
asserted that within the walls of Multifarnam was first concerted
that rebellion which broke out in massacre in 1641. Enough remains
to gratify the lover of ancient architecture, in its pointed gables,
Gothic windows, and lofty tower 60 feet in height, and in its solemn
cloisters which may still be traced. New-Pass, not far distant, is
a pleasant mansion with good lake scenery. See Tyril's-Pass, a neat
village with ancient Castle ruins.
MINERALS.
Nothing remarkable.
BOTANY.
A virgin field; but promising great variety of aquatics.
WEXFORD
Presents many interesting considerations to the English tourist,
arising from its being the first active scene of invasion by the
Anglo-Norman adventurers in the reign of Henry the Second. It is,
however, a district very little noticed by casual travellers, who,
perhaps from its apparent deficiency in mountain scenery, rashly pass
it over _en route_, reserving all their admiration and praise for
the more classical beauties of Killarney. Yet Wexford well merits
investigation, not only for the magnificent and romantic views at every
turn of the Slaney, one of the most beautiful rivers of the island,
which divides it nearly in equal parts, but also for the immense number
of Gothic castellated ruins which yet adorn its green eminences, the
relics of feudal barbarism and of intestine hostility. Add to this,
much of it is in a high state of cultivation; especially the baronies
of Bargie and Forth, which yet are completely denuded of all kinds of
timber. Bounded N. by Wicklow; E. by Irish Channel; S. by Atlantic
Ocean; W. by Waterford, Kilkenny, and Carlow.
BANNOW, 11 m. S.W. of Wexford, may be visited along with Feathard and
Clonmines. Here Strongbow landed, temp. Hen. II. Those fond of aquatic
sports may visit the Saltees.
CLONMINES, 10 m. S.W. of Wexford.--In his excursions on the banks of
the romantic Barrow, the tourist will not omit to visit the ruins of
the once very extensive Abbey, with its light, lofty pinnacled tower,
ivied walls, and elegantly ramified western window, formed of red
grit, but completely whitened by the moss which enwraps it. Some fine
specimens of ornamental sculpture are to be found in the architecture
of the western door and in the arches of the cloisters, also on a
monument within the Ch.
CLONEGALL, 21 m. N. of Wexford, is a small village: but here the
tourist may commence his examination of the river Slaney. Visit
Newtonbarry, the seat of Col. Barry, deriving great animation
from the picturesque effect of river scenery combined with modern
improvement, and the majestic range of Mount Leinster.
ENNISCORTHY, 8 m. N.W. of Wexford, stands agreeably on the Slaney.
Ancient Castle fitted up as military depôt. Handsome bridge, six
arches. Close to it is Vinegar Hill! A few miles to the E. is
Courtown, remarkable for its evergreens, which grow to an immense size
with a marine aspect. Near this also are the pleasing seats of Kyle
and Bellevue, places of extraordinary beauty, and affirmed by Mr.
Wakefield to be inferior to none in the British empire, abounding in
magnificent scenery, richly planted, undulating and varied in their
surfaces, and animated by the Slaney flowing between them, which often
assumes all the grandeur of an expansive lake.
FETHARD, 15 m. S.W. of Wexford.--Ancient Castle, once in ruins, lately
altered and modernized. Principal tower is an elegant specimen of
the ancient military architecture, with its crown and battlements
supported by brackets or consoles, and fantastic embrasures from
whence the enemy could be annoyed in the old system of defence. Visit
Dunbrody Abbey, on the Barrow; ruins magnificent; fine sculpture in W.
window. Several ruins of Castles and Danish raths. Duncannon Fort is
a good specimen of modern fortification, though of early foundation,
having been erected for the defence of the river against the
threatened attacks of the Spanish Armada, in the reign of Elizabeth.
It stands on the flat surface of a lofty rock which overlooks the bay
forming the entrance of the river. See the Hook Tower. At a distance
of about 3 m. from the fort stands one of the most noble religious
ruins in the island, Tintern Abbey, in consequence of its first
monks being brought from that abbey in Monmouthshire by the founder,
William earl of Pembroke, whose piety was prompted to a vow during a
threatened shipwreck.
FERNS, 13 m. N. of Wexford.--On an eminence in the town see the ruins
of the ancient Castle, one of whose fine circular towers is almost
entire, containing amongst other apartments a beautiful chapel, the
groining of which springs from consoles in the wall, but the flooring
is gone. Over it is an arched room with embrasures or loop-holes. See
ruins of Abbey; elegant Episcopal Palace; modernized Cathedral, with
ancient tomb of St. Meoloch. Camolin is the seat of Earl Mountnorris.
GOREY, 21 m. N.E. of Wexford, exhibits the effects of rebellion in
the destruction of several elegant seats in its vicinity. Here were
horrible scenes of massacre.
ROSS, or NEW ROSS, 15 m. W. of Wexford, stands amidst fine scenery on
the Barrow, opposite to the junction of the Nore. Several ruins of
religious houses, and an existing monastery. Elegant wooden bridge.
Fine view from the hill. In the Ch. of St. Saviour, see a curious
monument, of as early a date as the commencement of the 14th century,
but falsely attributed by tradition to a lady of the name of Rose
Macrae, who is called sister to Strongbow, an anachronism which
confutes itself. The female figure lies on the monument, with the hair
reticulated round the forehead; and on the breast is a solitaire, from
which a curious ornament hangs pendant. Here was fought one of the
bloodiest battles in the late rebellion. (See _Hall's Tour_, vol. i.
98, for many curious particulars.) Near it is Scullabogue, where near
200 protestants were burnt to ashes in a barn.
WEXFORD, 67 m. S. of Dublin, a very ancient town. Vestiges of walls.
See elegant modern Ch.; Court-house; wooden Bridge 2100 feet long,
where 97 protestants were butchered in the rebellion. Trade and
manufacture considerable. Small obelisk, to the memory of Major
Vallotton. See some ruins of the Ch. and Abbey of Selksar, or the
Priory of St. Peter and St. Paul, supposed to have been founded by the
Danes. The antiquary will not fail to visit the majestic ruins of the
Ch. of St. Mary, of which Grose has given a good plate, representing
it as small but of excellent workmanship; being remarkable for its
elegant arches supported by round columns, the cases and capitals of
which are of peculiar construction. The shafts of the pillars are of
hewn stone; but the remainder of the ruin consists of plain walls and
unornamented windows. Amongst the sepulchral monuments which remain,
there is a tomb with some sculptures, and a female figure recumbent,
but for whom it is unknown. The choir is entered by a circular arch,
the others are Gothic. To enjoy a very fine prospect go to Ferry
Carrick, where the stream becomes contracted between considerable
rocks. Here the tourist ought to land, and ascend the rising ground
on the west side of this narrow pass. An inland bay, which appears
unexpectedly, and animates the scene in no common degree, then opens
to the view. This noble expanse of water is bounded by steep banks,
all cultivated, and in some places covered with timber. To the E. the
distant mountains, which are softened into the purple of distance,
add much to the effect of the surrounding scenery, which, indeed,
abounds with uncommon beauties. Immediately beneath is seen a handsome
wooden bridge, painted white, which makes a very pretty object in this
natural picture, still further diversified by the ruins of an old
Castle on an opposite rock; a situation that seems to bespeak a sense
of taste, as well as a sense of danger in the steel-clad chieftain who
once frowned within its sombre walls.
MINERALS.
Schistus and argillite in the western districts. Siliceous
pudding-stone in several places. Granite and limestone.
BOTANY.
Yet uninvestigated.
[Illustration:
_T. Fielding fc._
]
WICKLOW