of the Shannon, which runs for a few miles along its N.W. boundary.
It presents all the varieties of rude, uncultivated, mountainous
districts, and of fertile plains, on a substratum of limestone,
equalling any part of the island in richness and in verdure. There is
also some beautiful and romantic scenery on the banks of the Suir,
which becomes a magnificent river before it leaves the confines of the
county. Bounded N. by King's and Queen's County; E. by Kilkenny; S. by
Waterford and Cork; W. by Limerick, Clare, and Galway.
CARRICK ON SUIR, 10 m. S.E. of Clonmel, is on the verge of the county,
and partly in Waterford, surrounded by magnificent mountain scenery,
intermingled with elegant cultivation. See remains of ancient walls;
fine old Castle of the Ormond family; Ch. monument of Earl of Tyrone:
examine woollen manufactures; visit Shliebnemon, one of the highest
mountains in Ireland.
CASHEL, 10 m. N.W. of Clonmel, affords much research for the
antiquary, as it seems to have been dedicated, from the earliest
times, both to religious and civil purposes: for here was a pagan
temple, and here the monarchs of Munster were crowned, seated on a
lofty stone. See modern Cathedral of handsome Grecian architecture;
Episcopal Palace; Market House; Sessions House; Charter School.
Examine ruins of old Cathedral seated on the rock of Cashel,
particularly Cormac's Chapel, of which the inside length, says
Ledwich, is 47 feet; the breadth 18; the height of the roof 54. This
Chapel has a chancel and nave; and on square pillars, adorned with
a lozenge net work, rest round columns as on their pedestals, from
which spring the arches. These columns are short and thick, and have
bases, tores, capitals, and entablatures, rudely executed: the portal
is semicircular, with nail-headed and chevron mouldings; the windows
are half circles also. Notice a crypt 53 feet long, and eighteen
broad within divided into a nave and choir, the crypt itself being
arched and supported by short and massy columns. A figure of an archer
mounted on some ideal quadruped is placed over one of the doors, and
the canonized bones of Cormac are supposed to lie under the altar. In
the body of the cathedral, and on the S. side of the choir, is a lofty
monument of the 16th century, of Milar Magrath, Archbishop of Cashel,
with an epitaph written by himself. The approach to the cathedral
is very fine. See lofty gate and western tower; chapel dedicated to
the Apostles, and curious subterranean passage supposed to lead to
Hore Abbey; steeple rising from four fine arches; ornaments round the
windows. In the town, inquire for the remains of Franciscan Abbey, at
the back of Friar-street; also of a Dominican Friary. Near the rock,
on a flat amidst some rich scenery, are the ruins of Hore Abbey, of
early erection. Its remains are still very fine; but when sketched
by Grose, they were indeed noble, with a lofty tower 20 feet square,
resting on two fine arches, 30 feet in height. The nave was 60 feet
in length, with gothic arcades and lateral aisles; and there may
still be traced a small low arched room, evidently a confessional,
as it contains niches in the walls with holes for the penitents to
speak through. About 3 m. from this city, see the ruins of Athassel
Abbey, of the order of St. Augustine, founded by William Fitz Adhelm
in 1200: one of the noblest religious structures erected by the early
English invaders. These ruins are still very extensive, and present
a good idea of Monkish times and manners: the choir, in particular,
seems to have been of great magnitude and splendour, 44 feet by 26;
and the nave nearly of the same dimensions; the whole having been 117
feet in length. See a curious small chapel in the S.W. corner; also
the cloisters which were extensive; the steeple, square and lofty;
and in short, the whole mass of arches, walls, windows, monuments,
&c. A good engraving of it is given in Ledwich's Antiquities. Emly,
about 14 m. W., on the borders of a lake, with ruins of Ch., a
large stone cross, and holy well. In this district the picturesque
tourist may visit the Galtees, a range of mountains with sides nearly
perpendicular, and highly romantic. Golden, a small village, forms
a station for several curiosities, with ruins of a Castle, on the
river Suir. Sir R. C. Hoare says, "that a round tower, with the river,
bridge, &c., form a good subject for the pencil." The accommodations
are good, at the Castle Inn. Visit Thomastown, the demesne of Lord
Landaff; an ancient mansion; also Suir Castle, residence of Lord
Massy. At Shrone Hill, a large unfinished house of Lord Milton's.
Tipperary contains merely one long street, but gives name to the
county.
CLONMELL, 82 m. S.W. of Dublin, is the county town, and stands
pleasantly on the river Suir, with good trade and a woollen
manufacture. Accommodations good. See Market-house; Court-house;
gothic Ch.; modernized Barrack, and Bridge of 20 arches. Few remnants
of antiquity, having suffered much from Cromwell. Memorable as the
birth-place of the facetious Sterne. Examine Medicinal Well for
scorbutic diseases. Ardfinnan is an ancient village 7 m. S.W. from
Clonmell, existing previous to the first English invasion, and seated
on the river Suir, over which there is a long bridge of 14 arches.
The town itself stands low, but close to it is a high rock, bold and
picturesque, overlooking the river, selected by King John as a fit
situation for an extensive castle, which suffered much from the cannon
of the Parliament army in the Civil Wars, yet still presents a very
picturesque specimen of military antiquity. It is square, with two
lofty towers overlooking the town, and a high ascent to it on all
sides, and at a distance seems perfect, as the greatest part of the
walls and the principal gate are yet standing; but the inside is a
total ruin, no roof remaining except over one apartment. Cahir, 5 m.
N.W. from Clonmell, stands upon both sides of the Suir, surrounded
by the extensive domain of Lord Cahir, which Mr. Wakefield describes
as bearing evident marks of the good effects that may be produced
by the patriotic exertions of an ardent mind directed to laudable
pursuits, and anxious for improvements, contributing particularly by
extensive plantations to increase the beauty of the county, which,
in this vicinity, naturally abounds with wild and romantic scenery.
See the remains of the old Castle, also the ruins of a very large
building at Somerstown, near to Cahir. The ride from Cahir to Clogheen
is described by Mr. Wakefield as being an object of research to the
inquisitive tourist. He says "that proceeding through a valley which
extends from the Galtees, the traveller finds himself between that
range on the N., and the Knockmeledown mountains on the S., wild
also in the extreme, the whole district being divided into fields,
either by grassy dykes or rough stone walls." The latter mountains
are exceedingly barren. They are covered solely with heath, which
in the spring season is extremely black; and as their great height,
at the time when Mr. Wakefield visited this dreary vale, completely
intercepted the rays of the sun which lay hid behind them, every
thing assumed a dusky appearance, which threw a gloom over the whole
visible face of nature. Clogheen is situated upon a stream close to
the bottom of these mountains, and the road to it forms a gradual
descent of nearly two miles, with a lofty black mountain in front.
It is a considerable thoroughfare, and has good accommodations for
the tourist either of picturesque or mineralogical research. Ascend a
long and lofty mountain about 2-1/2 m. to Baylough in a hollow, with a
fine echo either from a bugle-horn or even a musquet. The view towards
Clonmell very beautiful. At Kilshielan, see ancient tumulus, called a
Fairy hillock. Knocklofty, residence of Lord Donoughmore; good house
and grounds.
FETHARD, 7 m. N.E. of Clonmell, is in a decayed state, but affords
accommodation for the eastern district. See remains of ancient walls;
and some ruins of monastery. At Kilcooly is a very fine Ch., in
excellent preservation, once belonging to a Cistertian Abbey. It is
still roofed and entire, with gothic windows of rich tracery, and
a handsome square tower, whose light battlements are luxuriantly
enveloped in ivy. At Killenaule, see ruins of several old Castles, in
the midst of rich scenery.
NENAGH, 30 m. N.W. of Clonmell, is a good station for the northern
district. The approach is thus described by Sir R. C. Hoare, who
says, "that leaving Birr, he entered the county of Tipperary, passing
through a village with mills, and a small Castle; another ruined
fort on the left; corn lands; a Castle in ruins on the right; a line
of road as straight as if it had been planned by a Roman engineer;
an extensive plain, with distant hills; bog; a slight ascent; a
large bog on the right; a Ch. rebuilt, with the ruins of the more
ancient one annexed. Corn pastures, and bog; road rough in parts; a
gentleman's seat on the right; more wood; another seat on the right;
the country improves; plain, bounded by some high hills." After this
_flying_ picture, the tourist may alight at the New Inn, where he
will find good accommodations. The town itself is large and regularly
built, with the remains of a Castle, having a circular tower of strong
masonry. The antiquary may trace the ruins of an Augustine Friary.
In 1370, the English forces were defeated near this town, a small
party having assisted Turloch O'Brian, by Brian, nephew of Turloch,
who thence assumed his surname. See ruins of Knockalton Castle, 2 m.
also Lough Derg, formed by the river Shannon, with fine scenery and
antiquities, further noticed in Clare and Galway. Silver mines, so
called from some virgin silver having been discovered in the lead
ore: see Dunalty Castle. Toomavara, a small village, has ruins of a
Preceptory of Knights Templars; also Blane and Knockane Castles.
NINEMILE HOUSE, that distance N.E. of Clonmell, is merely a travelling
stage, but forms a good station for much wild mountain scenery in the
Sleivh na Manna range. Near it the ruins of an old Castle, with the
handsome residence and well planted grounds at Kilcash.
ROSCREA, 30 m. N. of Clonmell, stands on the very verge of the
county, and is a thriving and wealthy town, on the post road from
Dublin to Limerick, standing in a fertile and populous district. At
the entrance of the town the tourist will notice the very curious
architectural decorations of the Ch., with its Saxon doors and niches,
its sepulchral crosses; and lofty round tower, 80 feet in height and
15 feet in diameter, possessing also the singularity of a window with
a pointed arch at the height of 30 feet from the ground. The Castle
(1213) is now a barrack. Monaincha, about 3 m. from Roscrea, and
about 1 m. S. from the road leading to Burros in Ossory, cannot fail
to be highly interesting to the antiquary as the birth-place of the
long celebrated monastic order of the Culdees, a Christian but not
Roman Catholic sect, that commenced in the 6th century, according to
Ledwich, in this remote corner of the world, in a little island in
the midst of a bog, sometimes called Innisnabeo, or the "Island of
the living." Columba was their founder, as may be seen at large in
_Ledwich's Antiquities of Ireland_, p. 56; and it is a curious fact
at the present moment, that so adverse were the Culdees to the tenets
and practice of the Church of Rome, as to draw down the wrath of the
Vatican, and the festival of St. Columba was forbidden in the other
parts of Ireland. The bog in which these ruins are now to be seen
was formerly a lake: for Giraldus Cambrensis describes it as such in
1185, with two islands, one containing a Ch. and the other a Chapel;
a fact that must render a visit interesting to the geologist. The
geologist who directs his research to the bog of Allen will naturally
visit this bog of Monela, which is but a continuation of it; and here
he will not fail to notice the extraordinary fact, that what was the
lesser is now become the greater isle. The easternmost of the two is
the largest, and contains about 2 acres; in it stands the Culdean
Abbey, of which considerable vestiges still remain. The tourist will
particularly observe the arch of the choir, which is semicircular or
Saxon, and on which sculpture seems to have exhausted her treasures:
a nebule moulding adorns the outward semicircle of the portal, a
double nebule with beads the second, a chevron the third, interspersed
with the triangular frette, roses and other ornaments. It is also
decorated with chalices, artfully made at every section of the stone,
so as to conceal the joints. Here the ruins afford some research for
the mineralogist, as part of the stones used are of a whitish grit,
brought from the neighbouring hills of Ballaghmore, but being porous
they have suffered much from the weather; whilst the columns of the
choir are of a harder texture, close-grained, reddish in colour, and
once highly polished. These have evidently been quarried on the S.W.
side of the bog, and are a species of schistus, splitting into laminæ
of six feet long, with which most of the abbey is cased without.
Notwithstanding this, some ashen keys having in past ages been dropped
on the walls and insinuated into the interstices, they have now become
large trees, and add much to the solemnity and singularity of the
place: unfortunately, the action of the roots on the walls threatens a
speedy ruin to great part of this venerable edifice.
THURLES, 18 m. N. of Clonmell, is not only a place of considerable
inland trade, but has long been a favourite residence of the Catholic
primates of Munster, who carefully preserve various relics of St.
Cormac. Here are the ruins of an ancient Castle, built upon a very
extensive plan by the first Earl of Ormond in the 14th century. It
surrounds a large area, and is flanked by several towers both round
and square, with a lofty semicircular gateway. Like many other castles
in this part of the country, it is a monument of the ravages of the
Parliamentary forces during the civil wars. See ruins of St. Mary's
Ch., built in 15th century, now falling rapidly into dilapidation;
neat modern Ch.; good Market-house; Barrack, formerly a mansion of
the Llandaff family; tower and some portion of an ancient Ch. of a
Carmelite monastery. About 2 m. S.W. on the banks of the Suir are the
very extensive remains of the Cistertian Abbey of the Holy Cross,
founded before the 12th century by Donogh king of Limerick, and long
esteemed as a spot of the greatest sanctity; and even in latter days
considered as a very fine specimen of sacerdotal architecture. The
Steeple, or Square Tower, is lofty, and attracts the eye at first
approach: it is supported by a lofty Gothic arch, and its workmanship
is highly finished. The body of the Ch. consists of a nave and aisles,
not very profuse in decoration; but the chapels have been highly
ornamented. The effect on entering the nave is very impressive, being
a noble expanse of 58 feet by 49, with an arcade of 4 arches on each
side opening into the lateral aisles. Passing through the choir, and
turning to the S., the visitor discovers two small chapels, each about
10 feet square, and between which is a double range of Gothic arches,
supported by twisted pillars, a spot supposed to be so holy that
the monks were always waked there previous to interment. Two other
chapels are seen on the north side; and in the eastern chapel, already
noticed, there is a very curious Gothic tomb, without inscription, but
said by tradition to be the sepulchre of a "good woman," who brought
many holy relics to the abbey. Longford Pass, a small village on the
road into Kilkenny, has ruins of several old Castles in its vicinity;
also Newark Park. At Temple More, a neat and well built village, see
handsome Ch. and spire; elegant mansion of the Carden family, and a
romantic seat and demesne belonging to the Marquis of Lansdown; with
numerous vestiges of ancient Castles.
MINERALS.
Lead ore, with silver, and silver mines; also pipe-clay and
fuller's-earth. Coal mines numerous.
BOTANY.
_Ammi vulgaris_, (Linn.) Bishop's Weed:--on Killough Hill, near
Cashell, plentifully.
_Hypericum Androsæmum_, Tutsan, or Park-leaves:--in woods.
_Leonurus Cardiaca_, Motherwort:--in hedges and among rubbish.
_Ophioglossum vulgatum_, Adder's Tongue:--in moist meadows.
_Ophrys bifolia_, Common Twayblade:--in woods.
TYRONE
Is completely an inland county, presenting nothing very grand or
majestic; but the lands being divided into small parcels, an increased
population gives much cheerfulness to its general aspect. The northern
part towards Strabane is mountainous, other parts are rugged and
uneven, but none very high. Bounded by Derry on the N.; E. by Armagh
and Lough Neagh; S. by Fermanagh and Monaghan; W. by Donnegal.
AUGHNACLOY, 20 m. S.E. of Omagh, is a neat village, on the banks of
the Blackwater, where the sportsman will find good trout-fishing. Near
it are the ruins of Lismore Fort. It may be made the head-quarters for
visiting the S.E. district.
CLOGHER, 20 m. S.E. of Omagh, is a poor village, yet an episcopal
see of very high antiquity, once Druidical. See Bishop's Palace and
handsome demesne; Cathedral, a plain building serving as the parish
Ch. Augher near to it is a small village, once a borough.
DUNGANNON, about 30 m. E. of Omagh, a very handsome town with a
pleasing vicinity. See Ch.; also remnants of Castle and Franciscan
Monastery. Farm Hill, the magnificent mansion of Lord Northland,
has a fine prospect of the town, with Lough Neagh in the distance.
Arboe, 7 m. N., has remains of Ch. and noble Monastery founded by St.
Colman, but destroyed by fire; with a curious cross 15 feet high.
Caledon, a large village 8 m. S., has several handsome residences in
its vicinity. Aghinnes, a fine seat of Lord Belmore; and Caledon,
a pleasing mansion of Lord Caledon. Coal Island has extensive coal
mines, with indications of iron ore. Near Cookstown, see Killyman,
a very pleasant mansion and demesne. Stewart's Town, 6 m. N. of
Dungannon, has some agreeable scenery. See Ardcreagh Ch. on a hill 3
m. distant; also Stewart Hall, 2 m. distant, a superb edifice with
extensive park and gardens, the seat of Lord Castle Stewart.
NEWTON STEWART, 10 m. N.W. of Omagh, stands amidst pleasing river
scenery on the Foyle. The picturesque tourist may amuse himself with
much mountain landscape in its vicinity. See ruins of ancient Castle.
The Marquis of Abercorn's seat at Baron's Court is supposed to be the
handsomest model of a nobleman's residence in the kingdom. See the
beautiful grounds and well wooded demesne, with a fine lake, from
whence the ruins of ancient Castle, and the Ch. have a pretty effect.
OMAGH, 87 m. N. of Dublin, is the shire town. See ruins of ancient
Castle, and some remains of an Abbey and Franciscan friary; with ruins
of a curious Ch. 4 m. dist. Hall, vol. ii. p. 118, speaks of it as a
very thriving place, on account of the linen and other manufactures
carried on there.
STRABANE, 20 m. N.W. of Omagh, stands very pleasantly on the river
Foyle, with some very fine prospects. A thriving place; forming a
good station for much of the scenery of Tyrone, Donnegal, and Derry,
with good accommodations; but Hall, vol. ii. p. 120, complains much
of extravagant charges. See the remains of the once elegant ruins of
Corock Abbey for Franciscan friars; also the seat of Lord Montjoy.
MINERALS.
Coals only have as yet been discovered; but it is supposed that iron
exists in many places, as there are numerous chalybeates.
BOTANY.
_Agrostis canina_, Brown Bent Grass:--in very wet meadows in northern
parts.
_Aira cæspitosa_, Turfy Bent Grass:--in the mountainous district near
Strabane.
_Astragalus glycyphyllos_, Liquorice Vetch:--in upland pastures.
_Achillea Millefolium_, Yarrow:--on river sides.
_Crepis biennis_, Rough Hawk's-beard:--in meadows.
_Erica cinerea_, Fine Heath:--on moorlands.
_Eriophoron polystachion_, Cotton Grass:--in wet meadows.
WATERFORD
Scarcely equals half the extent of some of the larger counties. It is
bounded on the N. by the Suir, on the W. by the Blackwater, and on the
E. and S. by the ocean. Mr. Wakefield observes, "that two such noble
estuaries as the Suir and Blackwater are seldom seen, abounding with
magnificent and romantic scenery, combining with lofty mountainous
tracts."
DUNGARVON, 21 m. S.W. of Waterford, is one of the greatest
fishing-towns in Ireland, being situated near the Nymph Bank; but
Mr. Curwen complains heavily of the bad accommodations which he met
with: the town small; the streets narrow: yet persons returning from
the lakes will do well to take this place in their route. Crossing
the Ferry at Youghall, and passing through an uncultivated tract of
mountain scenery, destitute of inhabitants, but highly susceptible of
improvement, the tourist approaches this town, built on the beach,
and appearing, from the descent of the mountain, as if it stood in
the sea. Dungarvon itself will not detain him long. See Barrack on
site of an ancient Castle; also ruins of Augustine Abbey of Gothic
architecture; lofty steeple springing from a curious vault; ancient
monument (1400). In the summer much company will be met with as a
bathing-place. If the tourist is hurried, and without time to examine
the whole county, he may take an interesting ride across it towards
Clonmell. Leave Dungarvon, cross a valley of excellent land about 4
m. wide; turn round a projecting chain of mountains, and then see
the small village of Kilmacthomas, from which village the first few
miles exhibit the same face of country, till within a short distance
of the banks of the Suir, where the eye is once more gratified with
the appearance of trees. On the right, for nearly the whole of the
way, there are magnificent views of the ocean, but not a gentleman's
seat is to be seen in the whole distance between Youghall and Lord
Waterford's seat at Curraghmore. Ardmore, 8 m. S.W. of Dungarvon,
stands near the sea; a poor village, once episcopal. Examine ruins
of two Ch. with curious sculpture; round tower, 100 feet high, 15 in
diameter; St. Declan's dormitory in cemetery; St. Declan's stone,
that swam from Rome to bring home his belt and vestments: Danish
Raths. Dromana, the splendid mansion and demesne of Lord Grandison
Duck's-pool, 1 m., ruins of Abbey. Kilmacthomas, 9 m. N.E., pleasing
village, with good river scenery and fishing, and some remains of
Castle. Whitchurch, 5 m. W., has curious cave called Con-a-glour, or
the Pigeon-hole, 150 feet long, with subterraneous river, fantastical
crystallizations, &c., from whence (or Lismore) the tourist may visit
Oonamort.