its vicinity to the capital, combining within itself all the rudeness
of uncultivated nature, the romantic effect of wood and glen, the
sublimity of mountain outline, and the charms of extended ocean. It
must be confessed that the interior offers little beyond the variations
of mountain and bog; but the sea-coast is rich in the splendour of
marine villas and the busy neatness of crowded watering-places,
presenting a variety of the most beautiful scenery, which would afford
delightful occupation to the painter, the poet, or the tourist, fond of
delineating nature as it appears, unassisted by the artificial aid of
man. It is true that there are no navigable rivers, but it possesses
abundance of smaller streams, which running down from the mountains
with great rapidity, discharge their waters into the Irish Channel.
Noblemen's and gentlemen's seats are numerous; as those fond of rural
retreats are attracted hither by the vicinity of the capital, and by
the romantic beauties which abound almost every where, as well as by
the uncommon mildness of the climate, which is peculiarly remarkable
for the luxuriance of its foliage in evergreens, myrtles, laurels,
arbutuses, &c. The larch is a favourite in all modern plantations; and
the oak flourishes in the rocky glens. Bounded N. by Dublin; E. by
Irish Channel; S. by Wexford; W. by Carlow and Kildare.
ARKLOW, 10 m. S. of Wicklow.--See Bridge of 19 arches over the Avoca;
modern Ch.; Barracks in commanding situation; ruins of Castle, an
old Tower forming part of the Barracks; and general appearance of
town picturesque. See the mausoleum near to it, to the memory of
the Howard family, conspicuous on a lofty hill. The picturesque and
poetic tourist may amuse himself with tracing the romantic scenery of
the Avoca and Avonmore. See Ballyarthur, the prospect from which, as
described by Mr. Wakefield, must not be omitted by the tourist. This
view is best seen from the terrace, which runs along the summit of
the northern bank that forms one side of the vale of Arklow. The walk
is 1 m. in length, with a summer house in one part where the view is
very fine, below which a slope of great extent, clothed in wood, runs
down to the united streams of the Avoca and Derry, proceeding in one
channel into the ocean at Arklow. This hollow or valley is much wider
than to admit of being called a glen, being about 1-1/2 m. in breadth;
and from hence, looking directly inland, is a fine extent of mountain
scenery, the most conspicuous feature of which is the Croan mountain
fronting a woody bank which forms part of the vale and extends nearly
3 m. Following Mr. Wakefield's hints, the tourist will now direct his
eye down the glen, where the river is seen pursuing its winding course
until it is lost in cultivated fields, bounded by rocky heights of
various forms and tint. On each side is a magnificent prospect of the
ocean; and more immediately to the left lies a most delightful rising
bank, covered with oaks, and forming the northern side of the river.
Here, says Mr. W., the lively appearance of the woods, the tints of
their waving foliage, the magnificence of the mountain scenery, and
the wide expanse of the ocean displaying its surface, all combine to
render this one of those extraordinary scenes of nature which rivet
the attention with delight. The immediate foreground has a curious
effect, being formed of the tops of trees; whilst the river lies
below with slips of cultivated land scattered about its banks, and
encompassed by the most beautiful woody scenery. Mr. W. then directs
the tourist to follow the course of the river in an opposite direction
towards Rathdrum, when the extent of the woods will almost induce him
to imagine himself in the midst of one of those immense forests which
extend over the wildest scenes of nature. Here too a rapid river,
flowing from the mountains, rolls its shallow stream with wonderful
rapidity along its rough and pebbly bed; whilst the opposite side
of the glen is covered with wood to the very summit, behind which
are lofty mountains that seem almost to touch the skies. Cross the
river, pursue the road on the opposite side, and particularly notice
a beautiful view of both sides of the glen in long perspective, with
the river winding in the bottom of it, and the sea terminating the
prospect. Visit Ballykin, seat of the Whaleys, erected on ancient
Abbey. At Ballyrane, a Danish rath in high preservation. Carnew, 12
m. S.W., is a very strong situation, and was long the head-quarters
of the sept of O'Toole, who preserved their independence for several
centuries. It has a lofty square Castle with towers and battlements,
still in tolerable preservation as far as regards the walls, which
are of a blueish stone and of very good workmanship. The turrets are
supported on consoles or brackets, and the whole has a commanding
appearance, but is disfigured by the wretched cabins which crowd
round the base of its venerable walls. Also ruins of old Ch. From
hence the tourist may visit what remains of the ancient oak forest
of Shillelagh. Cronebane, 7 m. W. from Arklow, possesses a mountain
stream, a modern Pactolus, which separates the counties of Wicklow and
Wexford. In the bed of this river large pieces of gold have several
times been found; but when a regular search was instituted, the
quantity taken did not pay the contingent expenses. Some lumps were
also found in the Wicklow side of the mountain; and the tourist, if he
picks up no specimens, may at least pick up health and amusement in
his search. The waters of this place have been supposed to transmute
iron into copper; but the fact is, that they precipitate the contained
copper upon iron bars immersed therein; after which the precipitate is
fluxed, and yields about one half pure copper. Examine the copper ore,
which is found in one spot in a large vein at the depth of 390 feet;
also the mode of procuring copper from the water, by its deposition on
iron bars. Cronbane-house is a mansion highly deserving of notice, for
its singular situation on a piece of land elevated, as Mr. Wakefield
describes it, to nearly half the height of the mountain which forms
the back-ground. The view from it is very fine; for two rivers, the
Avon and the Avoca, wind round it in a semicircular form, exhibiting a
broken outline, which gives them a romantic appearance, and shrouding
the valley of Glendalough in their bosom. The home grounds and walks
also possess many beauties. Kilcarra Castle, 3 m. from the sea, is
the seat of the Earl of Carysfort, lately ornamented with towers
and castellated front; in a retired spot on gentle declivity, with
romantic glen. The new mail-coach road leading past this district
affords many views of fine scenery. Shelton is the beautifully
situated mansion of the Earl of Wicklow, at the base of a range of
hills luxuriantly clothed in wood. Here are some of the finest beeches
and chestnuts in Ireland. House ancient but modernized.
BALTINGLASS, 17 m. W. of Wicklow, is pleasantly seated on the Slaney,
with a good trade and some manufactures. The Castle is in good
repair, and now forms a comfortable mansion. Near it, on the banks
of the Slaney, are the remains of the Abbey, consisting of a long
Chapel totally in ruins, with a belfry tower, and a lofty plain E.
window. Part of it is still roofed, and fitted up for divine service.
Druidical remains in the vicinity; and the name is evidently derived
from the worship of Baal, or Apollo; a circumstance that renders
its antiquities highly interesting. Visit from hence a very curious
Rath at Donard, on a hill called Slievh Guth or Church Mountain,
about 6 m. distant. Here is a holy well to which numerous pilgrims
repair. Stratford in the vicinity is a town of very recent erection,
judiciously planned, but not successful as it ought to be. The cotton
manufacture, however, flourishes.
BLESSINGTON, 18 m. N.W. of Wicklow, stands agreeably on the Liffey,
on the verge of the county, with a handsome modern Ch.; and near it
the ruins of the Marquis of Downshire's noble mansion destroyed in the
rebellion. Ballymore Eustace has been already described in Kildare.
Poll-a-phuca may be visited from this place, with a curious ruin of a
Ch., and part of a Round Tower, and stone cross near it. The cascade
at this place is considered by Miss Plumptre as much finer than the
one at Powerscourt. It is formed by the Liffey amongst abrupt rocky
scenery, well planted with shrubs, with shady walks, and prospect
seats arranged by the taste and liberality of the late Earl of Milton,
whose mansion at Russborough with a centre and wings extending 700
feet, of the Corinthian and Ionic orders, with a good collection of
paintings, is worthy the tourist's notice.
BRAY, 13 m. N. of Wicklow and 11 S. of Dublin, is a place of
considerable fashion in the summer as a bathing-place, independent
of its enchanting scenery and vicinity to some of the sweetest
charms of the county. See the Martello Towers; also Bray-head, with
marble and other extensive quarries: old Castle; and river with good
trout-fishing; Ch. in bold romantic situation. A pleasant jaunt is
to go to Kilmacannoch Ch. in ruins, 3 m.; thence to the Glen of the
Downs; ascend a hill on the right, catching a delightful view of
Delganny Ch. on a rising hill above the village, with the sea in
the distance; thence proceed to Newton Mount Kennedy, 8-1/2 m. from
Bray, and to the vale of Dunran; then 4-1/2 m. to the Devil's Glen,
with fine views of Glendaloch, Luggela, &c.; further on to Rosanna
and Newry Bridge and Wicklow. The Dargle, a most romantic glen
about 1 m. in length, and amidst the Powerscourt scenery, is one of
the usual Irish wonders; but its description would far exceed all
possible limits. Let the tourist attend to the fine ranges of wood;
to the river in the bottom tumbling from rock to rock; to the immense
height and grandeur of the precipices; and to the various breaks of
extended prospect which present themselves in several directions. See
Miss Plumptre's _Tour_, p. 83: also further under _Powerscourt_. At
Delgany, a handsome modern Ch. with a superb monument to the memory
of Mr. Latouche. Ennisherry is a pretty little place much frequented
by invalids, standing near a river at the base of a lofty hill. Near
it is the Glen of the Downs, through which runs the new mail-coach
road to Wicklow. The best mode of visiting this romantic spot is to
proceed to Bellevue, the seat of Mr. Latouche, which is about a mile
from the sea coast and commands a very fine view of Bray-head, with an
extent of marine scenery of considerable interest stretching towards
Wicklow-head. According to Mr. Wakefield's description, the principal
objects of attention, on first entrance, are the green-houses,
connected with the mansion, and exhibiting to the delighted botanist a
most interesting display of exotics and tender indigenous plants, some
of them extremely rare. Behind the house, though not within immediate
view, is the Glen of the Downs. Proceed to a banqueting-house in the
pleasure-grounds, from whence is a sudden but most delightful view
of this romantic scenery, lying directly below the observer, one
side of the glen lined with oaks, and the opposite rising into a
considerable hill clothed with rich foliage, and backed by the lofty
mountain of Thomond. The tourist, if returning to Dublin, may proceed
by Kilternan, 6-3/4 m. from the city, 1 m. beyond which is the Scalp,
a remarkable chasm in a mountain which appears as if rent asunder
by an earthquake. See the Sugar-Loaves in the distance. Near this
are the lead mines of Shankhill amidst granite rocks, with abundance
of galena, or sulphuret of lead, and mica. Collect specimens of
crystallizations of carbonate of lead; also of sulphate of barytes,
of phosphate of lead, and hæmatite or oxide of iron. Kilruddery near
Bray, on the old coach-road, is a romantic mansion seated in a deep
valley in the midst of most picturesque scenery. Luggela, which may be
visited from Powerscourt Park, has in its vicinity a lake of the same
name, seated amidst an ocean of mountainous scenery, surrounded by
dark and naked rocks, and presenting a sombre picture of silence and
desolation: the rugged barrenness of the scene which encircles this
abyss is finely contrasted, in one point, by an expanse of verdant
lawn, together with some plantations, belonging to a cottage erected
there by Mr. Latouche, as a banqueting retirement. A ride of a few
miles, either from Dublin or Bray, leads to Powerscourt, a noble seat,
the road to which is a glen between two vast ridges of mountains
covered with wood, which have a very noble effect. The vale is no
wider than to admit the road, a small gurgling river close to its
side, with some narrow slips of rocky ground and shrubbery. The whole
scenery is of a most magnificent character, and much improved by an
immense conical mountain rising out of the glen, and seeming to forbid
all exit or entrance. An excursion to this favoured spot combines
within its arrangements the several beauties of the Scalp, the
Sugar-Loaf Mountains, and the Dargle: the tourist may therefore bring
them all within one day's visit, if time is short, or visit them in
detail after a general view. The best method is to proceed from Dublin
to Altadore, after which the road for a few miles leads over mountain
scenery of a pleasing character until it approaches the head of a wide
extended glen, with the ocean in front and the domain of Powerscourt
covered with plantations and tillage; whilst the Scalp, a lofty
mountain, shuts up the view in the north, and is finely contrasted on
the opposite side of the compass by the Sugar-Loaf. Let the tourist
now turn completely round, and he will discover a magnificent glen,
richly covered with foliage, with an astonishing waterfall at its
extremity, said to be 360 feet in height. Mr. Wakefield observes that
these objects, however, form only a small part of the romantic scenery
which fills this charming district; and he says that in the extent of
about 6 m. from the Sugar-Loaf Mountains, and from the waterfall to
the ocean, a similar distance, nature has scattered her picturesque
beauties with so liberal a hand, that the view altogether reminds
the spectator of some of those landscapes on canvas, in which the
painter, indulging his genius, has collected such an assemblage of
interesting objects as are seldom found combined together in nature.
The glen already described is the far famed _Dargle_, or the _Glen of
the Oaks_, so that it must have been as well wooded in ancient times,
as its sides are now clothed with verdant oaks, which add considerably
to its native beauties. On a closer investigation the tourist observes
a mountain stream tumbling over its rocky bed with great rapidity,
after issuing from the foaming spray at the foot of the waterfall.
Let him then proceed to the Lover's-Leap, where he will enjoy a most
extensive prospect over the delightful scenery of the woods beneath
him. Turning to the right he will notice the Powerscourt demesne,
which includes a park that extends from the waterfall to the spot on
which he stands, a distance of about 4 m., being an expanse of ground
exhibiting the most uneven and varied outline, and richly planted with
different trees and shrubs of the most luxuriant growth. On all sides
are deep glens whose sides are covered with foliage, contrasted again
by smiling lawns; whilst the mansion itself, a noble edifice built
of the finest granite, is seen embosomed in trees, and overtopped by
lofty mountains in almost endless succession and in all the variety
of outline, blending their tints with the ethereal vapours, and
forming a most striking contrast with the highly cultivated verdure of
the foreground. Formerly there was a most excellent station for the
accommodation of resident visitors, at an inn at Tinnehinch, but the
building has been fitted up as a villa by Mr. Grattan: the tourist,
however, will find other accommodation sufficiently comfortable.
GLENDALOCH is a spot which cannot fail to excite high interest in
the minds of all persons of taste or enthusiasm; for from the very
earliest ages, Ledwich observes, it has been the favourite seat of
Superstition. If visited from Wicklow, (from whence it is 11 m. N.W.,)
proceed 2 m. to Newry-bridge; see Glenmore Castle to the right, seat
of Mr. Synge; ascend an exceedingly steep hill, with fine prospect
looking back to the sea, but in front a brown dismal waste, bordering
on the Devil's Glen. Proceed across a boggy flat, wild and dreary,
towards Anamoe, where is a curious square earthen embankment; the
road dividing, on the right to Luggela, on the left over a country
dreary and mountainous to the little village of Derrybaun at the
confluence of two mountain rivers, a short distance from whence first
gain a view of the once famous city, with its tall Round Tower in the
centre of a large wild valley, encircled with vast rugged mountains.
If you approach it direct from Dublin by the new road, fail not to
notice a charming sheet of water, Lough Bray, with shores embraced
by stupendous cliffs, overtopped by lofty mountains. If going by the
Wicklow road, fail not to notice the Devil's Glen, already mentioned,
which Miss Plumptre considers as the finest in the county. The vale is
about 11 m. N.W. from Wicklow, and 22 m. S. from Dublin, from whence
it forms an agreeable morning ride, and is surrounded on all sides,
except to the E., by stupendous mountains, whose vast perpendicular
height throws a gloom on the deep dell below, well suited to inspire
religious dread and horror: for, being covered with brown heath, or
more sable peat, their summits reflect no light whatever. As nothing
facilitates the observation of the tourist more readily than a clear
idea of the topography of the place he visits, it may now be stated to
him, that on entering the vale, he will perceive towards the S. the
mountains Lugduff and Derrybaun, separated only by a small cataract,
opposite to which, and on the other side of the lake, is Kemyderry,
between which and Broccagh on the north side is a road leading from
Hollywood to Wicklow. At the west end of the upper lake he will
observe a cascade called Glaneola Brook, falling from the hill; and
further on St. Kevin's Keeve, a small stream from Glendason river, and
in which Superstition still dips weak and sickly children every Sunday
and Thursday before sunrise,--and certainly with an efficacy which an
early cold bath must produce on any other day of the week. Looking
into the bosom of the vale, the tourist will soon perceive that these
and other cataracts form a junction when they assume the name of
Avonmore or the Great River, sometimes so swelled with torrents as
to be rapid and dangerous, but generally confined within narrower
bounds, and merely feeding two romantic little lakes separated from
each other by a rich and verdant meadow. It is evident from the names
of the mountains, that these eminences were once a forest; but at
present the gloom of foliage is much wanted by the venerable ruins
of the religious edifices, or the "Seven Churches" that give so much
interest to the vale. Here once stood an extensive city, but now
almost extinct, except that from what can now be discovered by its
walls and foundations, it is conceived to have extended from the
"Refeart Church" to the "Ivy Church," on both sides of the river; and
some idea of its ancient state may be formed from its remains in the
road leading from the market-place into the county of Kildare, still
in good preservation, being paved with stones placed edgewise, to the
breadth of ten feet. Those who wish to know all the superstitious
traditions respecting this holy spot, may consult the second article
in _Ledwich's Antiquities of Ireland_, where they are related. One of
these, however, must be noticed, as explanatory of one of the wonders
of the place. Tradition tells, and Superstition believes, that St.
Kevin, whilst ascending a neighbouring hill in a period of scarcity
and famine, met a woman with a sack on her head, in which were five
loaves. The woman, being rather churlish, when the saint inquired the
contents of her sack, told him they were stones. "I pray they may be
so," said the holy inquirer, when instantly five stones tumbled out,
rolled towards Refeart Ch. where they were kept as sacred reliques
for many years, but are now exhibited in the valley, weighing about
twenty-eight pounds each, and certainly bearing a great resemblance to
loaves, from whence this idle story has arisen. The tourist having
now taken a general survey of the place, it remains to lead him
through it in detail; and the first spot he meets, on approaching from
the E. is the Ivy Ch., completely invested with evergreen foliage,
where he observes a circular belfry, supposed by Ledwich to be one
of the first attempts to unite the Round Tower with the body of the
Ch. Passing on, or rather retracing his steps, a little to the S.E.
is seen the eastern Ch. or Priory of St. Saviour, near which is a
stone-roofed Chapel. Resuming his former route, and rambling about
three hundred yards from the Ivy Ch., is a small square which was
the market-place of the ancient city, with the pedestal of a stone
Cross; to the southward of which he may pass the river on stepping
stones, the ruins of a bridge, and then enter the solemn cemetery by a
gateway with a Saxon arch, when he arrives at the Cathedral, evidently
in the Saxon style of architecture. Here the E. window is deserving
of notice from the curious sculptures which adorn it, representing
the most miraculous actions of the patron saint. This window has the
peculiarity of diminishing in size, until it becomes so narrow as to
be almost impervious either to light or air; a peculiarity evidently
adopted from the want of glass. Here notice a tomb of freestone on the
S. side of the choir: at a short distance, the sacristy or priest's
house, of which a closet, where the vestments and holy utensils were
kept, still remains, to turn thrice round in which, is supposed by
the vulgar to be a certain cure for the head-ache; also some remnants
of crosses and sculptures worth noticing, particularly some on the
tombs of the O'Tooles, ancient Irish kings, here and in the Lady's
and Refeart Churches. Returning from Refeart Ch., observe a circle of
stones piled up conically about three feet high, round which pilgrims
still perform penance; then on a recess of the southern mountain, see
St. Kevin's bed, excavated from the living rock in a projection from
the mountain, also Teanpell-na-Skellis Ch. But the path to these holy
curiosities is so evidently dangerous and difficult, especially in
returning, from its extreme narrowness, that he who wishes to avoid
the chance of a slip into the lake below will be content to admire
them at a distance. Observe in the centre of the vale the ruins of
the Abbey, north of which is Trinity Ch. with part of a Round Tower;
also several smaller chapels and oratories. If time will not permit
the tourist to complete this investigation, let him then approach
this interesting scene by the bridge of Derrybaun, from whence the
Seven Churches present a very picturesque and pleasing view. The
bridge itself is a pleasing object in the landscape, being a modern
erection of three elliptical arches over the Avonmore, covered to a
great extent with an oak coppice on one side and the huge Broccagh on
the other, which here confines the view up the valley, at the end of
which the great Round Tower and other ruins appear to great advantage,
whilst a remarkably smooth and high mountain forms a most singular and
agreeable back-ground.