statist it exhibits the effects of modern improvement, having become
a fruitful and pleasant district instead of bogs and deserts. Bounded
W. by King's County; N. by Kildare; E. by Carlow; S. by Kilkenny and
Tipperary.
BURROS, 12 m. S.W. of Maryboro; a neat village, forming a good
station for the western district, having an excellent inn. Ruins of
Ballaghmore Castle, 3 m. W.; from whence may be visited Monaincha
Abbey in Tipperary. Grantstown Castle near Rathdowny. On the hill of
Kyle, a curious remnant of ancient judicature, the Brehon's Chair,
or Fairy Chair, as called in the vicinity. It is very near the top
of the hill, on its eastern side, and formed from the solid rock;
was the judgement-seat and public court of the Brehon, or chief of
the Fitzpatricks. See at Skirk, a very curious Pagan fane, situated
on a lofty hill, from whence the eye has a most extensive range. It
consists of an immense large earthen mound, the area surrounded by a
deep entrenchment, and in the centre, a pyramidal stone 6 feet high,
with the stumps of others which formed a temple. Towards the E. see a
cromlech; and on the north side, contiguous to the Parish Ch., a high
keep, or exploratory fort.
MARYBOROUGH, 40 m. S.W. of Dublin; the assize town. See ancient
Castle, demolished by Cromwell. 9 m. S.W. is Abbey Leix, the seat
of Lord de Vesci, a considerable domain covered with old timber,
and intersected by the river Nore, which, with the woods, forms its
principal charm, as the grounds are flat and unvaried. The statist
will contemplate with pleasure several neat villages in its immediate
vicinity, erected by the patronizing exertions of the noble landlord.
Aghaboe, near Abbey Leix, has remains of ancient Abbey and Cathedral,
of which little more than the chancel now exists; remnants of Gothic
architecture, in the windows and various niches, canopies and
concentric mouldings which yet adorn its mouldering walls; but much
injured by a late rector. The Abbey of Aghamacart lies to the S.
about 6 m. from Aghaboe, once very extensive, and now in ruins. At a
distance nothing appears but the gloomy belfry; but the visitor soon
arrives at an arch of good workmanship which opens into the body of
the ruins, or rather into the remains of the chapel. There is, indeed,
little to attract attention, were it not for a legendary tale, of a
monk whose affection for a lovely nun was met with such reciprocity
on the part of the lady, that gossip scandal would soon have spread
her thousand wings. To expiate his crime and escape reproach, the
monk flung himself from the battlements of a tower and perished; but
the fate of the unhappy fair is wrapped up in oblivion. Aghamacart
Castle, now forming a total yet picturesque ruin, is not of earlier
date than the reign of Elizabeth. Ballinakill, 9 m. S., ruins of
Castle, demolished by Cromwell. About 15 m. S.E., on a small point
of land watered by the Barrow, stand the very picturesque ruins of
Cloghgrennan Castle, deeply embosomed in foliage and entwined with
ivy. About 4 m. E. is Dunamase, a hill fort, which, though almost
in total ruins, affords to the antiquary and to the man of taste a
very good specimen of the military manners of earlier times. Though
standing on an insulated rock, its name signifies the "Fort of the
Plain." This rock is inaccessible on all sides except the east,
which, in its perfect state, was defended by the Barbican, of which
a considerable part remains. Here began the principal defences, with
ditches on each side, until stopped by rocks, where walls seem to have
been erected, with two towers for the protection of the Barbican, from
whence the visitor enters the Ballium or Bailey, the gate of which is
7 feet wide, with walls six feet in thickness, and the remains of a
parapet crenelled and embattled. This leads to the upper Ballium, the
gate of which is in a tower, from whence fragments of walls extend
on both sides; here too was the keep, with a sally-port and prison.
This fortress belonged to Dermod McMurrough, King of Leinster; but
the present remains are rather of later date; perhaps the work of the
Pembroke family in the 13th century. It is now repairing by Sir H.
Parnell, with judicious attention to its gothic grandeur. Doonaun,
a village about 16 m. S.E., has extensive coalpits, which claim the
notice of the mineralogist by rocks of whinstone resting on a stratum
or column of basaltes, 40 feet below the surface; below which are
strata of slate and iron ore. Great Heath, or Rathean Common, 2 m. N.
of Maryborough, is memorable for a battle in the 3d century between
the people of Munster and Leinster; and the bones of the slain are
often dug up at the present day. Killone Hill is conical, with curious
cavern and subterranean lake, highly worth the tourist's notice. Near
it a fine quarry of calcareous stone equal to Portland. The Maragah,
or Margy Mountains in the S.E. present a fine field for the geologist.
About 1-1/2 m. N. of Dunamase, the tourist will descry a small
fortress, called Shean Castle, standing on the summit of one of the
high, steep, conical hills, so frequent in this part of the county.
It is still habitable, though its surrounding defences have been
long in ruins, demolished in the Civil wars. Stradbally, 6 m. S.E.,
neat village, handsome Ch., good Market-house, and Charter School.
See Brockly Park, the magnificent seat of Earl Roden; and Stradbally
Hall, that of Mr. Crosbie: about 4 m. S. is Dun-cliun-poic, or Dun of
Clipoke, an insulated rock with curious caves; near it is a tombstone
with Druidic inscription. About 6 m. S. from Stradbally, stands the
Castle of Timahoe, an edifice not older than the reign of Elizabeth,
but now completely in ruins, having stood a siege in the civil wars,
at which time it was dilapidated. Its area is now filled with cabins
of the peasantry: there is nothing very interesting to the tourist;
but close to it there is one of the ancient round towers, now fast
mouldering away. The entrance is at a height of fourteen feet from
the ground, and is ornamented with a chevron or zigzag moulding, a
circumstance which opens a wide field of conjecture as to date and
origin.
MOUNTMELLICK, 6 m. N.E. of Maryborough, is a pretty little village,
perfectly in unison with its inhabitants who are Quakers. Near it see
Ballyfinn, a modern house of the Rt. Hon. W. W. Pole: fine lake; noble
lawns; elegant apartments; well wooded demesne; and most extensive
prospects. See ruins of Cloneslee and Cuffe Castles; also freestone
quarry at Rosenallis.
MOUNTRATH, 7 m. W. of Maryborough; pleasant little village on
the Nore, with good river scenery. From hence the picturesque or
geological tourist may visit the mountains of Slieve Boomy, or Bloom,
in the N.W.
PORTARLINGTON, 9 m. N.E., stands partly in King's County, (where it
has been noticed,) large, populous, and genteel. At Ballybrittas,
ruins of Castle, demolished by Cromwell; with numerous country
seats in vicinity; particularly Dawson's Grove, residence of Lord
Portarlington. Near this town, see Lea Castle, famous in the wars
of the 13th century, and standing on a rising ground. This edifice
manifests the strength that was given to these dens; for its walls are
8 feet thick in some places, in others 10. It was 60 feet long, 46
feet broad; its arches all circular except one pointed one. The river
Barrow secured one side, and filled the ditches of the other; so that
it was only approachable by a narrow causeway 100 feet in length, a
good defence before the introduction of artillery. See ruins of Morit
Castle near Emo, in a wild valley, intersected by a rivulet.
MINERALS.
Coal and iron ore in Slewmargy; Chalybeate Spa, near Portarlington.
BOTANY.
Yet unexplored.
ROSCOMMON.
A small inland county, not remarkable for grandeur of scenery,
consisting principally of rich, extensive pasturage, intermixed with
considerable masses of bog. There are some pretty views on the banks
of the Shannon, which forms its eastern boundary. For the mineralogist
there is little to interest, as its basis throughout is almost one
continued sheet of limestone. Bounded E. by the Shannon; S. by Galway;
W. by Mayo; N. by Sligo; N.E. by Leitrim.
ABBEY BOYLE, or BOYLE, 20 m. N. of Roscommon, pleasantly seated on the
river Boyle. See two stone Bridges, on one of which is a pedestrian
statue of William III.; fine Ch. and barrack. In Lord Kingston's
demesne the attention of the antiquary will be turned to the ruins
of the ancient Abbey, which stand within it at the back of the town,
presenting a most elegant specimen of the architecture of the 13th
century, when it was founded for Cistertian monks in honour of the
Virgin. It is now a mere picturesque mass of ruin, filled with lofty
trees and much thorny underwood. The approach from the bridge is
very grand; especially the effect of the tower, covered with thick
foliage, and springing from great arches which were 45 feet in height
before the ravages of time had spread the floor with the relics of
the mouldering walls. The interior has once been very fine; solid
walls fill up the spaces between the pillars, supposed to have been
erected in the reign of Elizabeth, when this dissolved monastery was
turned into a fortified post, for which it was certainly well fitted,
and actually stood a siege from the Earl of Tyrone in 1595. The east
window, when in its glory, must have been extremely beautiful. Near
to the Abbey are some vestiges of one of the round towers; and every
thing around it would tend to produce a most impressive scene, were
it not that the cloisters have been long occupied as a barrack: yet
the silence and gloom of the interior, with the solemn arcades, and
the emblems of mortality that lay scattered over its surface, will
not fail to gratify the contemplative visitor. Cambo Castle is about
2 m. distant. About 7 m. from Boyle, and upon the edge of a very
extensive bog, are the ruins of the Abbey of Clonshanville, now almost
a total ruin. Of the cloisters no remnant exists; but the tower, 60
feet high, forms a pleasing object, with the few Gothic fragments at
its base. Croghan is immortalized as the residence of Cathmor, the
friend of strangers: here is an ancient Rath, also a sacred Cave of
the Druids, and near to it Relig-na-Riagh, or the resting-place of the
Kings of Connaught, an immense cemetery in a circle 200 feet diameter.
Visit French Park. See Kingston Hall, an elegant mansion of Lord
Lorton. Lough Arrow, 3 m. N. of Boyle, is beautifully studded with
wooded islands: also Lough Gara to the W. Lough Glinn is also in this
vicinity; on its banks stands a noble mansion of Viscount Dillon, with
some extensive grounds, of modern erection and improvement; and on the
opposite shore the tourist may visit two ruinous towers, which are
all that remain of a once very extensive antique fortress, a feudal
residence of the old barons of Ophaley. One of these towers has long
been used as a temporary prison.
ATHLONE, 12 m. S.E. of Roscommon, is principally in Westmeath, where
it will be described.
ELPHIN, 13 m. N. of Roscommon, though an episcopal see, is only
a small neat village, celebrated as the birth-place of Oliver
Goldsmith. See the magnificent palace; also the Diocesan school-house.
Ballintobber was the residence of O'Connor, king of Connaught, but
now a dilapidated village. Here are some very extensive ruins of
the ancient Castle, built round a square, flanked by four towers of
different forms. The vestiges are in a most dilapidated state, but
possess some further interest from an anecdote recorded by Grose of
a young Irish _Gentleman_, during the civil wars, who behaved with
the most devoted bravery in an action fought close to the walls.
When victory declared for the Parliamentary forces, this youth,
disdaining to fly with his party, placed himself at the corner of a
ditch, where he defended himself with his pike against five horsemen
who fired on him, when a gigantic English soldier, getting behind
him, slew him. Being stripped and his cap taken off, long tresses
of flaxen hair fell down, which exciting further curiosity, it was
at length discovered that this unhappy youth was a female. See Lough
Kee, a romantic lake, adorned with finely wooded rising grounds; on a
peninsula are the very picturesque ruins of St. John's Castle. In the
Lough is an island called _MacDermot's_, after a chieftain of that
name, stated by tradition to have been of a very jealous disposition,
and to have confined his wife in it, whenever he was engaged in any
of the warlike contests of those turbulent times. If the legends,
however, are to be credited, the lady certainly gave him sufficient
cause for his jealousy; and all his precautions were unavailing: for
it is said that her lover used to swim to his nocturnal visits as
Leander did to Hero. The obstacles he had to surmount were indeed
numerous; for the island is surrounded by a wall close to the
water's edge, encircling a gloomy tower now overgrown with ivy. At
present the interior is filled with trees, and the island presents
a picturesque and singular appearance. On another island are the
ruins of a religious edifice, supposed to be founded by the Culdees,
and now called Ennismacreeny Abbey. The walls of the Ch. are yet
standing, solemn and sombre, the windows being only long loop-holes;
at some distance is a little dark Chapel, which sufficiently marks
the gloomy seclusion of those superstitious times. Round Tower at
Oran. Strokestown is a neat village; near it the magnificent mansion
of Ross Mahon, Esq. Visit Tulsk, a mere hamlet, but worth notice for
its antiquities. Here are some remains of an ancient Abbey, little
known, and supposed to have belonged to the Dominican order. Nothing
exists now but some bare walls, marking the site of the Ch., and part
of a square tower; but it seems never to have been very lofty nor very
extensive. Near it is Tormonia, the ancient residence of O'Connor, of
whose Castle there are some remains.
ROSCOMMON, 70 m. W. of Dublin, is the assize town.--Ancient Castle
stood several sieges in Elizabeth's reign and in the Civil wars; now
an extensive mass of ruins. See the once august ruins of the ancient
Abbey, founded by Cathal Crowdeargh O'Connor, king of Connaught, in
the 13th century, whose tomb may be traced in its solemn aisle.
Little remains except some shattered windows and ruined arcades. Near
to the modern mansion of Castle Coote are some remains of the old
Castle, erected by Sir Charles Coote in the reign of James the First.
It stood two sieges during the Civil wars, but is at present a mere
mass of ruins; forming, however, a picturesque object in the demesne.
See elegant mansion at Castlereagh; and a curious battlemented house,
called Donamon Castle, may be visited from Roscommon. Its appearance
is extremely whimsical, being square with projecting turrets at the
angles. A lofty range of stone steps leads up to a circular doorway,
nearly as high as the roof; and within is a similar range leading to
the upper apartments. It is in good repair and habitable. In front is
the river Suck. About 7 m. N.E. of Roscommon, the tourist may visit
the picturesque but not very lofty or extensive ruins of the Abbey of
Clonthuskart, in such a state of dilapidation that little more can be
accurately traced than the principal chapel, the eastern window of
which must once have been extremely grand. Kilmaine is the demesne of
the Crofton family, within whose bounds is the hill of Kilmaine, on
the summit of which is a small ancient Ch., partly in ruins. The place
is solemn and fitted for meditation, were not the visitor's attention
completely engaged by the very extensive prospect which bursts upon
him over no less than sixteen counties.
MINERALS.
Nothing remarkable yet discovered.
BOTANY.
_Aristolochia Clematitis_, Climbing Birthwort:--in the woods of Briole
near Athlone.
_Cyclamen europæum_, Sowbread:--near Mount Talbot.
SLIGO.
Nearly half the outline of this county is maritime. Very mountainous,
especially in the Coolavin district, where the Curlew Hills offer their
virgin bosoms to the mineralogist. The ox mountain (Sliebh Dham) with a
long train of desolate hills extends from the boggy maritime plains of
Tyreragh; whilst the rough mountain land, from Lough Gilly, stretching
eastward, is marked by the lofty eminences of Samore and Benbulb. Much
lake and river scenery. Bounded S. by Mayo; W. by Atlantic Ocean; N. by
Leitrim; and E. by Roscommon.
ACHONRY, 14 m. S.W. of Sligo, may be made head-quarters for the
examination of the S.W. district; or the tourist may apply at
Tobercorry, a few miles distant. 5 m. W. of it, on the river Moy, are
the very picturesque and ivied ruins of Bennada Friary, whose lofty
square tower, 70 feet high, forms a very striking object, starting
from the thick foliage with which it is surrounded, on a rising bank
amidst a range of meadows. Whilst in this vicinity, the tourist will
be gratified by a ramble to the ruins of Court Abbey close to a small
village of that name, and about 3 m. W. from Achonry. The way to it
is not very agreeable, being mostly through bogs: it is, however,
an object not easily missed, as it stands conspicuously in a small
field, where its lofty tower, fifty-three feet high, frowns over the
ruins below. The interior sombre and solemn; used as an open cemetery.
Proceeding a little further, the visitor arrives, through a lofty
Gothic arch, at a Chapel the windows of which were once ornamented
with paintings, now obliterated. Here are also several pedestals for
the statues of saints, but now untenanted; in the south wall are some
slight remains of a window once rich in tracery. Passing into the
western Chapel, observe a curious octagonal inverted cone, supposed to
have been the receptacle for the holy water; and on the northern side
of the chancel are melancholy memorials of mortality, the recesses
in the walls being entirely filled with human skulls: the whole
presenting a scene of desolation perfectly in unison with the wildness
of the surrounding country. Not far from the village of Tubbercorry
are some remains of an old Castle of the O'Hara. The country around is
flat and boggy, and there is nothing to repay the labour of a visit.
BALLINAFADD, 15 m. S.E. of Sligo, is a small village, but will afford
shelter to the tourist who wishes to examine its vicinity. See the
ruins of ancient Castle, picturesque and pleasing, the feudal den
of the clan MacDonough, with thick walls, circular tower, and most
extensive prospects over the Curlew mountains, along Lough Arrow; and
along a wild but romantic valley to the S. Ballymote, 5 m. N.W., has a
Castle which presents a good specimen of ancient military architecture
at the commencement of the 14th century, when erected by Richard de
Burgo, the red Earl of Ulster, a man of high power and possessions.
The ruins are still very extensive, and seem almost to bid defiance to
time. Six round towers, one of which is 53 feet in height, flanked the
walls that were 9 feet in thickness, with a gallery or covered way of
communication all round. At the end of the town are some remains of
the ancient Ch., with some finely pointed Gothic arches, and curious
east window. Franciscan Friary. Somewhere in this vicinity is Corren,
with curious caves called the Giant's House, with an approach cut in
the rock, steep and difficult. Lough Arrow, already noticed under
Roscommon, presents much romantic scenery. On its banks, in a wild
open district, stood a Convent of Dominican nuns (1427) in honour
of the Virgin. At present little remains except the Ch., called
Ballindown Abbey, in sufficient preservation to show its ancient form,
though unroofed. It consists principally of two Chapels united by a
belfry, with this curious architectural whim, that the east and west
windows only are Gothic, but all the others elliptical.
ENNISCROWEN, or ENISCRONE, about 28 m. W. of Sligo, may be visited
by those who venture to explore the wild recesses of the barony of
Tyreragh. Castle Connor, near to it, has curious caves, lined and
roofed with great stones, on a hill, as yet scarcely noticed by the
antiquary. Close to the sea stand the remains of the ancient Castle
of Roslee, sombre and solitary. Little more now exists than one
lofty tower, in the thickness of whose walls is a curious staircase
leading to the gloomy apartments within. The Castle was originally
of considerable extent, and near it runs a rivulet, traditionally
said to have once been fitted with a weir for the purpose of catching
salmon; the fish, by an ingenious contrivance, ringing a bell as soon
as caught, and thereby giving notice to the cook of their capture. At
Screen, 15 m. N.E., see Danish-Stone Rath on a hill.
SLIGO, 104 m. N.W. of Dublin, stands upon a river, by which the waters
of Lough Gilly are discharged into a large bay, and which admits
vessels of 200 tons up to its quay. See Court-House, Gaol, Barrack,
Infirmary, and Charter School; Custom House and quays; much trade;
good accommodations. Close to the town, and pleasantly seated on the
river Gilly, near its confluence with the sea, stand the ruins of
the ancient Abbey, of early foundation, but burnt down in the 15th
century, and immediately afterwards rebuilt in a very superior style
of sculpture and architecture. It has two large chapels divided by a
square belfry, the tower of which is entire except the battlements,
and resting on a lofty Gothic arch. The other arches of the Gothic
colonnades are lofty, and enriched with foliage and angels. The Ch.
is completely uncovered; three sides of the cloisters have an arched
roof in pretty good preservation: their arches are semicircular; but
a profusion of Gothic ornament exists in other parts of the edifice.
The front and sides of the altar are ornamented with Gothic arches,
foliage, and tracery; and there still remain pedestals for statues,
whose sanctity could not work miracles against Time. The tourist must
not neglect to notice the eastern window, which is very beautiful.
Around the nave is a stone gallery; and at a height of several
feet from the ground may still be seen the tomb of O'Connor, lord
of Sligo, his figure and that of his lady kneeling on each side of
an altar. Taking a ramble about 4 m. S. from the town, the tourist
will see, at the foot of a small hill, the neat village and Abbey
of Ballysadere, erected about the 12th century for Augustine monks.
At present nothing can be traced but the arches of the belfry and a
small part of the tower, built of black stone: not far distant are
the picturesque remains of an ancient Chapel, with windows of cut
stone, and some curious carved heads on the doorway. Visit Nymphsfield
near Ballysadere, where there is a waterfall worth sketching. The
Giant's Grave, or Lugne Clogh consists of several stones resembling
Stonehenge. Innismurry is an island of the north coast, with curious
subterraneous cells: also interesting to the sportsman. Lough Gilly
abounding with romantic scenery; about 5 m. long, and 2 broad. Its
greatest charm is Hazelwood, the beautiful seat of Mr. Wynn, at the
end of a wooded peninsula which runs out into the water, and is seen
to most advantage from the lake. On the opposite side of the lake,
contrasting finely with the lawns and artificial arrangements of
Hazelwood, is seen a range of rude mountains, partially planted and
cultivated; beyond which is another range in fine retiring distance.
In the island of Innismore are ruins of an old Ch. of the Culdees,
covered with ivy, and marked by numerous superstitions. Knocknaree
is a mountain of considerable altitude and extensive base, in a
wide field of desolation. Malachwee hill has a curiously fantastic
appearance, with extensive prospect. See Mercury, the modern
castellated seat of Mr. Cooper, built of limestone.
MINERALS.
Silver, copper, lead, and iron have been found in various places; and
some symptoms of coal in the mountains near Sligo.
BOTANY.
_Dryas octopetala_, Mountain Avens:--on the mountains.
_Saxifraga umbrosa_, London Pride:--in the hilly districts.
TIPPERARY