of the linen manufacture. The roads are bad; but it has near it a
continued range of mountains that deserve investigation, particularly
two amongst them called the Papps, from their singular resemblance
to the human breast, and having two little protuberances on the very
summit of each, which enforce the resemblance more strongly: these Sir
R. C. Hoare suspects to be carnedds or Tumuli. Near it see ruins of
Clodagh Castle, feudal seat of the Mac Swinneys, once distinguished
for its hospitality by an inscription inviting all strangers to enter;
at Clondrohid, ancient Ch. and Danish encampments; and 1 m. W., on
Lessecresighill, vestiges of a Druidical altar. At Kilnamartery,
curious white rocks, at a distance resembling the ruins of a
magnificent city.
RATHCORMUCK, 12 m. N.E. of Cork, a decent town, with Ch. and neat
Market-house. See to the N. Cairn Tierna, a range of mountains
with an ancient cairn, forming a conspicuous object. Glanmire is
described by Miss Plumptre as a village in a beautiful and romantic
situation:--trace the rivulet through the deep and picturesque glen.
Glanworth has spacious ruins of an ancient Castle, and some remains
of a Dominican Abbey, with good river scenery. 1 m. distant is a most
curious sepulchral monument called Labacally or the Hag's Bed, said
by tradition to have belonged to a giantess of whom many ridiculous
fables are related. Its real history and antiquity are unknown: it
consists of several broad flag-stones supported by others, and most of
them of an enormous size, one no less than 17 feet long and 9 broad.
The whole length of this vast tomb, which is hollow underneath, is 40
feet; in breadth 14; and the whole seems to have been inclosed in a
circle of flag-stones about 14 feet from the outside.
ROSS, about 24 m. S.W. of Cork, may be visited from Clonakilty.--See
a small Gothic Cathedral; ruins of Abbey, Barracks, and neat
Market-house. Miss Plumptre describes the surrounding scenery as
extremely pretty. See curious caves in the rocks by sea side. At
Castlefreke good marine scenery. Castlehaven has ruins of several
Castles, and remains of Spanish entrenchments in Elizabeth's time.
At Dunmanway see some romantic scenery, with a curious natural wall
of rocks. Glandore Bay is a most picturesque scene resembling an
inland lake. At Kilmacabra see Lough Drine with Danish entrenchment
on hill to the E. The lough is supposed by the peasantry to have the
miraculous property of shifting all its islands on some holy day every
year. At Miros are some curious rocks and caverns; see also Mount
Gabriel with most extensive prospect, with a deep lough on its summit.
YOUGHALL, about 24 m. E. of Cork,--is noticeable as the spot where the
first potatoe was planted in Ireland. Some good scenery around it;
and cheerful in the summer as a watering place. See the Ch. a large
Gothic structure with six Gothic arches on each side of the nave;
partly suffered to decay, particularly the chancel, where there is a
very fine east window of the purest Gothic. Here are several ancient
monuments. The mineralogist will be gratified by visiting Clay Castle,
about 1 m. S.W. from the town; a bold hill, on the strata of loose
sandy clay, pieces of which falling upon the beach become a hard firm
grit like freestone.
MINERALS.
Coal is to be met with in the barony of Duhallow; in the N.W. also
iron. In Muskerry in the W. are curious red and white slaty pebbles,
and in other parts are limestone and loam with symptoms of copper. But
on the whole this district, though interesting to the geologist, is
very deficient in mineralogy.
BOTANY.
_Althæa officinalis_, Marshmallow:--at Cable Island.
_Aquilegia vulgaris_, Columbine:--plains near Kilbullane.
_Arbutus Teredo_, Strawberry Tree:--on the mountains.
_Asplenium Adianthum nigrum_, Common Black Maiden-hair:--on the
mountains.
_Asplenium Trichomanes_, English Black Maiden-hair:--on rocky soils.
_Cardamine bellidifolia_, Daisy-leaved Ladies'-smock:--on old walls
near Cork.
_Cistus Helianthemum_, Dwarf Cistus or Little Sun-flower:--on on
limestone hills near Castlemore, and in the barony of Muskerry.
_Cochlearia danica_, Danish Scurvy-grass:--on Cape Clear and elsewhere.
_Cochlearia officinalis_, Common or Garden Scurvy-grass:--on rocks near
the sea.
_Convallaria majalis_, May Sally:--on the river Bandon.
_Dianthus Caryophyllus β_, Common Pink:--on the walls of an old castle
in the market-place at Kinsale.
_Euphorbia hyberna_, Knotty-rooted Spurge:--in the mountains.
_Helleborus viridis_, Wild Black Hellebore:--in a meadow near Doneraile.
_Hypericum Ascyron_ (Lin.), Bruges-rose:--near Ballymaloe in the barony
of Imokilly.
_Lavatera arborea_, Sea Tree Mallow:--on Cable Island near Youghall
harbour in Cork.
_Lepidium latifolium_, Dittander or Pepperwort:--near Corkbeg.
_Mentha rubra_, Red Mint:--near the head of the river Lee near Lough
Alloa.
_Nymphæa alba_, White Water-lily:--on the rivers Lee and Blackwater.
_Pimpinella major_, Great Burnet Saxifrage:--in woods and hedges on a
chalky soil about Cork plentifully.
_Pinus Abies_, Common Fir:--in the mountains.
_Sambucus Ebulus_, Dwarf Elder or Danewort:--on the lands of Rathpecan
near Cork.
_Saxifraga umbrosa_, London Pride, or None-so-pretty:--on all the rocks
in the western districts.
_Sedum dasyphyllum_, Round-leaved Stonecrop:--on an old wall near
Blarney Castle.
_Sedum Telephium_, Orpine or Live-long:--on walls and in pastures and
hedges near Mallow and Doneraile.
_Taxus baccata_, the Yew-tree:--in several parts of Carbery.
_Vaccinium Oxycoccus_, Cran-berries, Moss-berries, or Moor-berries:--in
moorish boggy grounds.
DONNEGAL.
The N.W. extremity of Ireland, anciently inhabited by the _Rhobogdii_
and _Venicni_; but in more modern history known as Tyrconnel. The whole
of the western coast consists of a range of mountainous rocks, which in
some places throw out branches that extend to the sea, or run between
borders of sand. Between the mountains in the interior of the county
there are extensive tracts of bog, in which are the remains of immense
forests buried deep in the bosom of the vale, though at present the
tourist travels for miles without a single tree to solace his eye. One
part of the county, in the vicinity of Leichbeg and Glentes, presents a
view of most singular appearance, consisting of an almost uninhabited
waste of heath, with masses of granite protruding from the sides of the
mountains; whilst here and there, wherever a little soil can be found,
are small patches of cultivated land, with small cabins formed of dry
stone, cement being unthought of. It is bounded by the Atlantic on the
N. and W., by Tyrone and Londonderry on the E. and by Fermanagh and
Leitrim on the S.
BALLYSHANNON, about 10 m. W. of Donnegal,--presents some pleasing
scenery of beautiful landscapes, swelling hills cultivated, and
with the bay flowing up between them. These hills are extremely
picturesque, rising into various outlines, and dying away insensibly
into one another. See Bridge of 14 arches; also the Salmon-leap,
surrounded by most romantic scenery; a fine fall of water;
perpendicular rocks forming the banks of the river, with bold views
of the sea. Here also are some ruins of the once famous Castle of the
O'Donnels, the turbulent feudal chieftains of Tyrconnel; and 1/2 m.
distant, in a secluded but finely picturesque situation, the ruins
of Asheroe Abbey. In the vicinity several Danish Raths. Belleek is a
pretty village, 8 m. E. of Ballyshannon, and at the end of Lough Erne,
whose waters here form two fine cataracts under perpendicular and well
wooded rocks. Several handsome seats, particularly Castle Caldwell on
the Lough, with ruins of several ancient Castles; but in Fermanagh.
DONNEGAL, the county town, is a decayed town 111 m. N.W. from
Dublin.--It contains little worth notice, except an ancient
castellated mansion of the Earls of Arran, which with the river and
bridge is considered by Sir R. C. Hoare as forming a good subject for
the pencil. Near it are the remains of a Franciscan Abbey (1505) in
a most picturesque situation. See spacious market-place; mill-stone
quarries in vicinity. The finest view of the Bay is from the bridge of
Imber, whence towards the right is seen a lofty but distant mountain,
with cultivated fields in the foreground: at the foot of another
mountain a gentleman's seat with well grown plantations strikes the
eye; and to the left the scene is diversified by a sand bank thrown
up by the sea, and a high ridge of plantation on the western side
of the river, with the bay appearing beyond it or seen through its
waving interstices. Barnmoor pass is highly awful and grand, leading
towards Lough Esk, about a quarter of a mile wide and 3 m. long,
formed by mountains rising high on each side of a deep glen covered
with heath, and frowning in deathlike silence. Lough Derg, 6 m. E. is
remarkable for its Purgatory; founded as reported by St. Patrick, in a
small island about 130 yards long and 50 broad. The Purgatory itself
consists of a cave 16-1/2 feet long by 2 wide, so very low that a tall
man cannot stand erect in it. Around it are the remains of several
Chapels and holy circles dedicated to various saints of both sexes.
Lough Esk lies at the head of the valley which communicates with
Donnegal, and at the foot of the magnificent Ross Mountains; round
it the scenery is sometimes awfully sublime, and sometimes rich and
cheerful. The sportsman will find red deer on the hills, and char in
the lake.
INISHOWEN BARONY.--Even in Ireland, it is considered wild, savage,
and impassable, from want of good roads. But Mr. Wakefield represents
it in a very different light, and worthy the notice of the tourist.
The roads, he says, are very good; the land better cultivated than
any other part of the county; whilst the views of Lough Swilly from
it are exceedingly grand. See the agreeably situated house of the
Bishop of Derry at Faun. Let the mineralogist visit the Arigal, on
the eastern bound of the county, said to be the highest hill in the
province; it is shaped like a sugar-loaf, and contains a quantity
of mountain spar, with lead-mines in its vicinity. In this district
is the parish of Cloncha, where are some remains of a large stone
Cross sculptured with rude representations of various animals; also
part of a Druidical circle of 12 stones, 6 feet high, forming a
segment of a circle 60 feet in diameter. In the same parish see the
great peninsular rock of Dunmore. In this parish are still preserved
some traditionary fragments of Ossian. In Clonmany parish see the
picturesque scenery round the Ch.; also a round tower forming part of
the ruins of an ancient Castle; near it a castle on a pyramidal rock,
not far from which is Mamore Gap, presenting the most sublime scenery
of mountains, rocks, and ocean,--a district consecrated to the memory
of Cuchullin and the heroes of other times: a Druidical altar here, is
called Cuchullin's (or Fion Mac Cuil's) stone. Near Cromla, in this
vicinity, is the site of the ancient Tura, so famed in those scattered
traditionary fragments that form the basis of Mac Pherson's modern
Fingal.
KILLYBEGS, about 12 m. W. of Donnegal, offers some fine marine and
mountain scenery. See ruins of Abbey.
LETTERKENNY, about 25 m. N.E. of Donnegal, and 15 m. W.N.W. of
Londonderry, forms a good station for visiting the wild scenery
towards the coast. At Ards Castle, see ruins of Castle and Baltimore
Ch. Dunfanaghy has some castellated ruins in its vicinity. At
Hornhead, 28 m. W. from Letterkenny, see a remarkable cavern called
Mac Swine's Gun, on a rocky cliff 60 feet perpendicular. Of these
rocks the lower stratum is porous sandstone, hollowed into a cavern
by the violence and continual buffeting of the waves, from whence
an aperture proceeds to the summit. When the wind comes from the
N.W. the billows being driven with great violence into the cavern,
the water thus forced to find a passage through the aperture,
rises to the summit of the funnel, from whence it again descends
with a most tremendous noise. Near this is MacSwine's Castle, an
ancient edifice, now fitted up as a modern residence. See Rutland, a
modern fishing-town, worthy the notice of the statistical tourist.
Kilmacrenan, about 8 m. N., has some ecclesiastical ruins, founded
by St. Columb, of which the parish Ch. forms a part. See the rock on
which the O'Donnels, princes of Tyrconnel, were always inaugurated;
also Lough Salt, in a romantic situation on the summit of a mountain.
Murkish Mountain, situated within 4 m. of two deep and safe harbours,
Dunfanaghy and Sheephaven, affords siliceous sand in great abundance.
Rathmelton is a beautiful village on the banks of Lough Swilly: see
Sir J. Stewart's handsome seat. The scenery around is delightful; much
planting, a fine river, and every appearance of increasing industry
and comfort. W. of Rathmelton is the bridge of Loughaugh, an arch of
52 feet span. Ascend Mount Alt, on the summit of which a lake with
most extensive prospect, combining ocean and mountain scenery.
LIFFORD, 28 m. N.E. of Donnegal, is prettily seated on the river
Foyle, and is the assize town for the county. The tourist will here
find the inhabitants a complete Scotch colony.
RAPHO, 24 m. N.E. of Donnegal, was an episcopal city, but now a
dilapidated village.--See the Episcopal Palace, once a Castle which
stood a siege in the Civil Wars: also the modernized Cathedral. Near
Ballybofy see Lough Mourne, and the dreary mountains of Barnsmore.
TORY ISLAND, which lies about 3 leagues from the main, N.W. from
Sheephaven, contains the ruins of a monastery and of seven churches,
having formerly been a "station," or place of Catholic penance.
MINERALS.
Sandstone and basaltes or whinstone, with pieces of coal imbedded, are
frequent in Kilbarrow and Kildoney. Emery is also found in the same
vicinity, and the chalybeates announce the existence of iron. Lead and
iron ore are to be found in the mountains.
BOTANY.
_Galium boreale_, Crosswort Madder:--in mountainous meadows.
_Gnaphalium sylvaticum_, Upright Cudweed:--in sandy pastures and woods.
[Illustration:
_T. Fielding fc._
_View from Warren Point Near Newry._]
DOWN.
The modern picture of this county, as sketched by Mr. Wakefield, is
flattering to Irish pride, and shows what may be done by industry.
He observes that in the western side in particular, the land is in a
high state of cultivation, and inhabited by a middle class of opulent
manufacturers, whose appearance and condition would do honour to any
country in Europe. Their habitations are well-built, display great
neatness, and are all whitewashed. The whole tract is embellished
with plantations; and, whether owing to the wealth created by the
linen manufacture, or the trade carried on at Belfast and Newry, every
thing exhibits evident signs of increased population and industry. The
banks of the rivers Bann and Lagan are covered with bleach-fields,
and present that cheerful and pleasing scenery which characterizes a
manufacturing country, and excites in the mind an idea of improved
civilization. The whiteness of the linen spread out in those fields,
contrasted with the greenness of the surrounding sward, produces an
effect on the eye not easily described; and the concomitant objects,
added to the bustle and activity of the people employed, render the
whole scene most interesting. In the S. the mountains of Mourne raise
their majestic heads to the sky, and afford much entertainment to the
picturesque tourist, who may visit them from Rosstrevor; and it is
a curious fact recently noticed, that a road leading to Carlingford
over one of the loftiest, is actually cut through a stratum of sea
shells (_Turbo littoreus_) of considerable depth, and more than 1 m.
in length. The roads are good in all parts, and the accommodations
comfortable. Bounded on the N. by Antrim, E. by St. George's Channel,
S. by Louth, and W. by Armagh.
BALLYNAHINCH, 10 m. N.W. of Downpatrick, seated on a small river
nearly in the centre of the county, has been long celebrated for its
sulphurated chalybeate spa, at the foot of Slieve Croob mountain
at about 2 m. dist. The vicinity is peculiarly romantic. See Ch.,
Charter-school, and Dissenting Meeting-house. See on the summit of
Slieve Croob mountain a remarkable cairn, 80 yards in circumference at
base, and 50 at top; another near Annadorn in its immediate vicinity
with a rude stone chamber in the centre. The space between Slieve
Croob and Ballynahinch is so completely occupied with rocks and
hills, that anciently it bore the name of Magheradrol, or Field of
Difficulties.
BANBRIDGE, about 18 m. W. from Downpatrick, has a bridge over the
Bann, and is in the heart of the linen manufacture. At Gilford, 5 m.
distant, is a chalybeate; and the river scenery, especially in the
vicinity of its bridge of 18 arches, deserves notice. At Warringston
see Ch. with curious roof of Irish oak; also a Danish rath.
BANGOR, a small town 21 m. N. of Downpatrick on Carrickfergus Bay. See
ruins of Abbey founded by St. Carigel (555), with Ch. (1623). Near it
is Groom's Port, where Schomberg landed with K. William's forces at
the Revolution.
COMBER, a thriving little town on Strangford Lough, 13 m. N. of
Downpatrick, with pleasant lake scenery. See ruins of Mount Alexander
Castle; fine strand at low water, and most excellent race-course. In
this place the tourist will hear much of a famous female spinner,
Anne MacQuillin, some of whose finest yarn, spun into 105 hanks to
the pound of flax, actually measured 214 English miles per pound. To
spin this required about a fortnight, and could only be done in mild
weather. At Castlereagh, 4 m., see ruins of ancient Castle. At Drumbo,
5 m. S.W. of Castlereagh, see ruins of Ch. and round tower, formerly
an Abbey founded by St. Patrick; and 2 m. N. the Giant's Ring, already
noticed as in the vicinity of Belfast. It is an ancient circle and
mound of earth 842 paces in circumference, with a Druidical altar in
the centre, consisting of four masses of stone, with a larger one
laid horizontally. On the bank are the remains of a round tower. It
is worth observing, that although there are some lofty mountains in
its vicinity, yet a person standing at the Cromlech in the centre has
his view completely bounded by the earthen mound, beyond which the sky
alone is visible, and the effect sublime. About 3 m. distant on the
banks of the Lagan is Newtonbreda, a pretty village with extremely
handsome Ch.; and near to it the elegant seat and park of Belvoir.
Saintfield, 5 m. S.W. of Comber, is an improving town; near which is a
Danish rath worth seeing.
DONAGHADEE, the station for the Scottish packets, about 22 m. N. of
Downpatrick, a comfortable town. See Gothic Ch. and new market-place.
The pier forms a pleasant walk. See the rath 70 feet high on a natural
mount, 140 feet in all. The summit is capable of holding 100 persons,
and the view, over the channel, of Scotland and the Isle of Man is
very extensive. Whilst in this vicinity, the tourist will be amused
by a marine trip to the Copland Isles, on one of which, Cross Island,
containing about 30 acres, there is a light-house constructed of
limestone found on the spot. In one of them is a cemetery with the
ruins of a Ch., also several cairns. See Portavo and ruins of Temple
Ch. on the beach, on the spot where St. Patrick landed.
DOWNPATRICK, 74 m. N. of Dublin, is the county town, pleasantly
seated on an arm of Strangford Lough. See remains of ancient Abbey
and Cathedral, boasted of as the burial-place of St. Patrick, St.
Columb, and St. Bridget: Town-hall; Market-house; Barracks; Gaol: on
the N.W. is a conical rath, 60 feet high, inclosed by 3 ramparts; the
race-ground 1 m. distant. Struel Wells, celebrated as a Penitentiary,
about 1 m. from the town. At Ardglass, 5 m. S.E. in Irish Channel,
ruins of several Castles. Ballycarn Bay in its vicinity has a
beautiful grotto under a limestone hill, with an intensely cold well.
W. of it is Ballyvaston. See an extensive tract of land, rendered
sterile by sand from the ocean. Carreg Abbey; ruins of Abbey and
St. Finian's Well are near Ardglass; also Castle Screan, built on a
Danish rath, with several Druidical remains. Coil-bridge, the Port of
Downpatrick, leads to Inis Courcey, where are some ruins of an Abbey
(1180). Killough, 5 m. S.E., is a pleasant village, with good harbour
on the Irish Channel. See Ch.; Horse-barracks; Charter-school, and
near it a mineral spring. In a rock near the shore runs an oblong
cavity, which at the ebbing and flowing of the tide emits a noise like
a hunting-horn: St. Scordin's Well gushes out of a rock on the beach,
and is never dry. Saul Abbey in ruins, with some castellated remains,
is about 2 m. from Downpatrick.
DROMORE, about 18 m. N.W. of Downpatrick, is a bishop's see, but
now merely a village.--See the very small Cathedral and neat modern
Episcopal Palace. Danish rath on hill at N. side, with a covered
passage 260 feet to the Lagan river. Chalybeate spring, said to
be good in gravelly complaints. Neat Market-house; Dissenting
Meeting-houses, &c. Dromaragh, 6 m. S.E., has some curious artificial
caves of considerable extent. S.E. towards Slieve-croob, at Leganeny,
a curious cromlech, and ancient stone cross near Drumgooland Ch.
Magheralin, 5 m. N.W., has a handsome Ch.; see marble quarries. At
Moira, 4 m. N.W., the scene of a sanguinary battle in 637, which
lasted six days, between Congal Claon and Donald King of Ireland; see
Moira Castle.
DUNDRUM, 7 m. S.W. of Downpatrick, is seated on a large bay open to
the Irish Channel--See extensive ruins of ancient Castle on a rock,
built by the Knights Templars, but dismantled by Cromwell. Here the
noble mountains of Mourne appear to great advantage. Clogh, a small
village 2 m. N.E., has a Danish rath surrounded by a broad deep fosse,
with plain strong Castle; and near it Mount Panther, seat of the
Annesleys. Castle Wellan has a small lake with pretty scenery; near
it, Briansford, a village seated midst romantic mountain landscape,
rocks, cataracts, &c. New Castle has some castellated ruins at the
foot of Slieve Donard, the highest of the Mourne mountains; and is
a much frequented sea-bathing place. The vicinity wild and sterile,
but alpine and highly romantic. S. of Dundrum, at Slidderyford, are
remains of a Druidical circle. Tullymore Park, near to it, is the
seat of the Earl of Clanbrassil, and is situated at one end of the
mountains of Mourne, and within 2 m. of the sea. The country around
it is wild and rocky, exhibiting some scenes of singular beauty in
the romantic style. Two mountain torrents join in the Park, and form
sundry cascades in their passage to the sea, into which they fall at
Dundrum Bay. The house stands in the park, and, though not lofty in
itself, yet commands a fine prospect from its elevated situation. It
is an extensive edifice with four fronts of 130 feet each, inclosing
a square area, and each front is different from the others; 10 m. from
Downpatrick.
HILLSBOROUGH, 18 m. N.W. of Downpatrick, a modern built town with
excellent inn. See elegant Ch. with stained glass windows; the mansion
of the marquis of Downshire; remains of Castle; handsome Market-house;
Maze course, 1 m. distant, one of the finest in Ireland, with a hill
in the centre. At Anahilt, 3 m. S., the sportsman will find plenty of
pike and trout in Lough Erin, and wild-fowl in the extensive bogs.
KILLYLEAGH, 5 m. N.E. of Downpatrick, stands on Strangford Lough, and
is a thriving place, with handsome Ch. &c. It was the birth-place of
the venerable Sir Hans Sloane, founder of the British Museum. See the
Castle. At Ardmillar, 6 m. N.E., is a chalybeate spring. Ringhaddy has
some remains of a Castle, and has long been famous for its oysters.