of Downpatrick, on the borders of the Jonesborough mountains, where
there is much wild scenery, and a small lake in its immediate vicinity
where the sportsman will find plenty of speckled trout. It is noted
as an encampment of K. William's army on their way to the battle of
the Boyne. From Ellenmoney, a bog near it, towards Points Pass, run
two rivers, one N. the other S. Near it and at Scarvagh are remains of
fortifications in the Civil Wars.
NEWRY, a thriving commercial town at the head of Carlingford Bay,
on the verge of the county, and about 25 m. S.W. of Downpatrick.--A
pleasant cheerful vicinity, and a good central station. See canal,
drawbridges, &c. 1/2 m. distant are the Creeve rocks, with ruins of
old Chapel. The mineralogist may here examine specimens of metallic
spar, ponderous and ferruginous. At Crownbridge, 1 m. E., a Danish
rath; and near it some Druidical remains. At Narrow-water, the port
of Newry, see ancient Castle and Salt-works. N. of it 5 m. is Tuscan
Pass, with several small lakes in which are plenty of pike. The
tourist may also visit Warren's Point, where large ships are obliged
to lie, and where the whole line of coast presents a continuation of
gentlemen's houses and whitened cottages, enlivened in the bathing
season by numerous parties.
NEWTONARDS, a comfortable town at the head of Strangford Lough, about
18 m. N. of Downpatrick. See venerable Ch., with some vestiges of
an ancient monastery at Moville 1 m. distant. Gransha, about 5 m.
E., has a good chalybeate, stronger than Tunbridge Wells, but little
frequented being in a wild boggy district. Not far distant is Grey
Abbey on the E. shore of the Lough, founded by a daughter of one of
the kings of Man, whose statue is still preserved. Part of it is
fitted up as a parish Ch., and the E. window is a noble specimen of
Gothic tracery. About 1/2 m. S. of Newtonards is Scraba mountain,
lofty, but cultivated nearly to the summit. Near to it are good
freestone quarries; and 2 m. N. a loftier hill, sometimes confounded
with it, called Karn Gaur or the Goat's Mount. The vicinity is famous
for goat's whey. See Mount Stewart.
PORTAFERRY, 10 m. N.E. of Downpatrick, is a town of some trade at the
mouth of Strangford Lough.--See ancient Castle of the Savages; Ch. and
two curious chapels. Near it is Echlinville. At Kirkistown, 4 m. N.E.,
ancient Ch. of Slane, and ruins of Castlebuy.
RATHFRYLAND, about 21 m. W. of Downpatrick, is a large pleasant
village.--On summit of a hill see ruins of a Castle. The country round
it is very agreeable. See village of Hilltown: Lissize, seat of E.
Clanwilliam; and Turkelly's Well, 2 m. N., a celebrated chalybeate for
scrophulous complaints.
ROSTREVOR, about 22 m. from Downpatrick, is considered the Brighton
of Ireland as a watering-place, and highly extolled for its romantic
scenery; being seated on a well wooded bank on a small arm of the
sea, which stretches into the country from Carlingford Bay. Sir R. C.
Hoare describes the entrance to it as very striking on approaching
from Dundrum; Carlingford Bay being so landlocked and surrounded
by mountains as to resemble a large lake; and the tourist, passing
through an irregular grove of tall and aged ash trees, with the sea
and whitened houses glimmering between them, finds here a truly rural
village retirement, commanding within its immediate vicinity more
beauty than the generality of sea places; a dry soil, shady walks,
diversified rides, and good bathing. He describes the most striking
feature of this place to be a lofty mountain covered chiefly with oak
wood, feathered down to the water's edge; underneath which is a little
quay, from whence there is a walk of 3/4 m. along the banks of the bay
completely arboured by oak trees, with a good road continued along
the coast under the Mourne Mountains to Dundrum Bay. We recommend
this spot more particularly to the tourist, as Sir R. C. adds that
he has seen no place with a more pleasing combination of rural
beauties; mountains agreeably varied with wood, heath, and down, on
one side; others on the opposite coast (Louth) singularly cultivated
in small portions or strips resembling a quilt of patchwork; between
them an extended channel of water, on the banks of which is the town
of Carlingford with its ruined Abbeys and Castle; a purling brook,
fine trees, neatly whitened cottages, &c. and a clean good inn. Miss
Plumptre speaks of it in equally picturesque and admiring terms. 1 m.
see ruins of Kilbreny Ch. The tourist may examine a romantic mountain
road to Rathfyland; and the mineralogist will find ample amusement on
the lofty mountains of Iveagh and Mourne, which extend far to the E.
along the Irish sea.
STRANGFORD, 7 m. N.E. of Downpatrick, is a small but very ancient
town, at the entrance of the Lough.--See Charter School, and ruins of
Castle Audley, and Walsh's Castle, from the former of which there is
a most extensive view over the bay. Kilclief Castle has considerable
remains. The Lough possesses some very fine scenery, especially
towards its entrance, where through tracts of hilly grounds the Irish
Channel is seen at intervals and the lofty hills of the Isle of Man.
The town of Strangford in the bottom is pleasantly situated amongst
trees, contrasting well with the bold mountains of Mourne in all their
sublimity. Near is Castle Ward, the seat of Lord Bangor, with the
peculiarity of two fronts, one Grecian the other Gothic. See the fine
grounds and extensive prospects.
MINERALS.
Copper ore in several places amongst the mountains. Lead in a mine
near Newtonards; rich specimens of ore amongst the rocks at Killough;
near Dundrum; and Portaferry.
Freestone quarries at Scraba and Kilwarlin; and slates at Bangor and
other places. The mineralogist and geologist will find much amusement
in the limestone quarries near Moira, containing specimens of marine
exuviæ.
Granite amongst the Mourne Mountains.
Iron has not been found in ore, but the numerous chalybeates attest its
presence.
BOTANY.
_Asplenium Adiantum nigrum_, Black Maiden-hair:--on the mountains of
Mourne.
_Fucus esculentus_, Broad esculent Sea Wrack:--on submarine rocks and
stones.
_Galega officinalis_, (Linn.) Goat's Rue:--in the western parts.
_Juniperus communis_, Common Juniper:--on Mourne and Scraba.
_Juniperus Sabina_, Savine:--on the Mourne mountains.
_Lycopodium alpinum_, Mountain Club Moss:--in the Mourne district.
_Lycopodium clavatum_, Common Club-moss:--on the Mourne mountains.
_Nymphæa alba_, White Water Lily:--among the lakes in the western parts.
_Orobus sylvaticus_, Bitter Vetch:--in woods and hedges near Rosstrevor.
_Pyrola rotundifolia_, Wintergreen:--on Scraba.
_Serapias longifolia γ_, a variety of White-flowered Bastard
Hellebore:--on a rotten bog by a lough side near Ballinahinch.
_Teucrium Scordium_, Water Germander:--in marshy places about Granshaw.
_Valantia cruciata_, Crosswort:--among the rubbish of the Cathedral of
Downpatrick.
DUBLIN.
This county offers to the tourist a complete epitome of the whole
Island. In the northern district are many bogs, yet in various points
the most beautiful scenery opens to the view, presenting numerous
villages with highly ornamented mansions and villas scattered around;
except in some few spots, trees indeed are wanting; and extensive salt
marshes spread towards the coast. S. of the Liffey there is very little
tillage, but to the picturesque eye this is amply compensated by the
wild uncultivated heaths, rocky mountains, winding glens, and sombre
landscapes that extend on every side. The ancient inhabitants were the
_Voluntii_ and _Eblani_; after them came the _Danes_ and _Ostmen_;
in later times the county was always within the English pale. The
Irish sea bounds it on the E., on the S. Wicklow, W. Kildare, and N.
Eastmeath.
BALRUDDERY, 15 m. N. of Dublin, lies on the coach road, and, though
but a village in decay, may form a temporary station for the tourist
to examine the northern district; or he may stop at the Man of War
Inn, 2 m. nearer to the capital. Balbriggan, is a good fishing village
2 m. distant; see Cotton Manufactory; and the mineralogist may examine
the veins of sparry micaceous stone, of copper, and sulphur, recently
discovered. Near the sea coast is Baldungan Castle, now a mass of
ruins, having been taken and dismantled by Cromwell; yet enough
remains to give interest to the legendary stories connected with it.
Its architecture is of the 13th century, combining the domestic with
the castellated form as a baronial residence, and said by tradition
to have contained a nunnery and a friary within its walls, whose
religious occupants sought protection here during the intestine
warfare of early times. The situation is pleasant, with a most
extensive view in all directions; and there still remain two large
towers at the west end with a parapet in front that covers the passage
between them, the whole richly mantled with ivy: besides which many
of the domestic apartments may be traced in the adjoining building,
the approach to which is by staircases in the towers, leading also
to the battlements. See also the Chapel and cemetery. At Grace Dieu
are some remains of a Nunnery (1190). Holm Patrick has some venerable
remains of a Ch. dedicated to the tutelar saint, who made this place
his residence. Naul, a small village 14 m. N. from Dublin, upon the
borders of Eastmeath, deserves a visit to its very beautiful glen,
whose romantic rocks, cascade, and rugged caves, are finely contrasted
by the picturesque ruins of its ancient castle. See the waterfall
called the Roches, and ruins of Snowton Castle. Patrick's Isle has the
ruins of an ancient Ch.
DUBLIN, says Sir R. Hoare, is more remarkable for its fine public
buildings than for its squares or streets: the latter, though planned
upon an extensive scale, want neatness and symmetry; but the former
unite elegance of design and grandeur with good execution. As this
is probably the first spot visited, we may observe that the view
in approaching the bay is delightful. On the left is seen a rich
and well-cultivated bank covered with villages and cottages, and
backed by the Wicklow Mountains, towering to a considerable height
and fading into the purple of distance. To the southward are seen
Sea View and the Black Rock, about 4 m. from the capital, studded
with white cottages for summer residents; to the north a more level
country extends towards the Hill of Howth covered with villas, amongst
which is the architectural _bijou_ belonging to Lord Charlemont,
known by the name of Marino. On approaching the harbour the stranger
is agreeably struck with the appearance of commercial activity, the
range of shipping extending nearly a mile into the city, their masts
resembling an immense forest. As he advances the scene becomes more
interesting; but to enable him to investigate it at his leisure we
shall arrange all the objects of curiosity alphabetically under their
various heads.
The _Bridges_ are numerous, convenient, and the new ones elegant.
Carlisle bridge forms a magnificent junction of the finest streets in
the city. Essex bridge, near the Castle, is a miniature of Westminster
bridge. Sarah bridge of one arch, 104 feet span, is compared to the
Rialto at Venice. The quays are well built and extensive; but the
river is an unpleasant object except at high water.
[Illustration:
_T. Fielding del. et fc._
_Dublin from the Circular Road._]
The _Churches_ are very numerous, besides Meeting-houses, and
Catholic-chapels. Christ Church, the Priory of the Holy Trinity, is of
ancient date, erected by a Danish prince in 1038, and much enlarged
by the addition of various chapels by adventurers in the reign of
Hen. II. Here they show a monument, said to be that of Strongbow Earl
of Pembroke, the principal invading chieftain; an opinion certainly
confirmed by Sir Henry Sydney, in 1570, who restored the monument after
it had been broken by the fall of the roof; but Leland asserts that
in his time an inscription in Gloucester Cathedral expressly stated
that to be his place of sepulture. To the left of the high altar,
see a costly marble tomb of an Earl of Kildare, in 1743; opposite
to this, one of Secretary Agard in 1577; also the singular musical
epitaph of Dr. Woodward. The architecture of the exterior is various,
Saxon and Gothic; the inside an incongruous mixture of Gothic and
Grecian. The Round Ch. deserves notice for the singularity of its form;
and St. Catherine's on the S. side of Thomas-street has a handsome
modern front. St. Patrick's Cathedral is a fine object of ancient
ecclesiastical architecture, but surrounded by filth and poverty of the
most disgusting kind. It is of various dates, from 1190 down to 1750,
when the lofty spire was erected; and part, including the steeple, was
re-edified in 1370, after partial destruction by fire. The Virgin's
Chapel is of the year 1271; but the whole is now in such a ruinous
state that Sir R. C. Hoare fears its speedy downfall. He recommends
the Chapter-house and choir as the best specimens of its architecture.
On the right of the altar see the very curious monument of the Boyle
family, rising nearly to the ceiling; on the opposite side, the tomb of
Lord Ranelagh; a tablet to the memory of Dean Swift, and near it one
for Stella; another to Sir H. Wallop; and a bust of the celebrated but
eccentric George Falkner.
The _Hospitals_ are numerous and well regulated. The principal are,
the Blue-coat Hospital at Oxmanton Green, for sons of decayed freemen;
Foundling, spacious and airy; Kilmainham, for soldiers, on the plan
of Chelsea on a grand scale; Magdalen, in Leeson-street, with Sunday
service; Marine School, on Rogerson's Quay; Incorporated Society's
Establishment, in Lower Bagot-street, for females educated at public
expense, until apprenticed; with many others.
_Literary Societies._--The Institution in Sackville-street has a good
library, lecture- and news-rooms; good collection of minerals and
marbles. The Dublin Society has a fine Museum of Natural History,
particularly in minerals; good library, laboratory, lecture-room,
exhibition of paintings; Botanic Garden at Glasnevin, and Observatory
at Dunsink. Royal Irish Academy has literary meetings every Monday.
_Private Edifices_--are not very numerous. See Charlemont House;
Leinster House, fine Corinthian front, rusticated, and Doric wings;
Waterford House in Marlborough-street.
_Public Edifices._--The barracks consist of 4 noble squares. The
Castle, mean on the outside but splendid within, contains Public
offices, an Arsenal and Armory; elegant modern Gothic Chapel, and
Bermingham's Tower. Commercial buildings on N. side of Dame-street.
To see the Custom House with striking effect, it must be viewed from
the opposite side of the river, where the statues and decorations
present a fine spectacle. The internal arrangements deserve notice.
The long room is 70 feet square and of course a practical bull. The
Exchange merits peculiar architectural attention, being a fine rotunda
within a square, having in the interior 12 fluted pillars of the
Composite order, 32 feet high, with a highly enriched entablature
crowned by a handsome dome. The Law Courts form a magnificent pile;
the approach grand, the hall noble, and the arrangements well suited
to the purpose. Sir R. C. Hoare objects to the architectural effect
produced by the dome, especially when viewed from the opposite side
of the river. See the Linen Hall. The Parliament House, no longer
used for its original purpose, presents a façade of fine architecture
perfectly in unison with the handsome front of Trinity College. Post
Office in Sackville-street. Stamp Office occupies an elegant mansion
in William-street; once Powerscourt House. Trinity College forms a
very striking object when approached from Dame-street. The tourist will
notice the fine effect on entering the principal court, particularly of
two elegant stone buildings with correspondent Corinthian porticoes on
the right and left. See the Library, a magnificent room, surpassed only
in Sir R. C. Hoare's opinion, by that of Trinity College at Cambridge:
it is 269 feet long, 50 broad, and 40 high. The æra of the University
is the reign of Elizabeth, but the edifice itself is modern. A handsome
but not very extensive park belongs to the University, in which, see
the celebrated Anatomical School, with wax preparations; also the
Museum and the Provost's House.
_Public Places_ are not very numerous. The Rotunda in Rutland-square,
attached to the Lying-in Hospital, is open as a promenade with balls,
concerts, &c. The Theatre Royal (Crow-street) is gloomy on the outside,
but highly embellished and convenient within.
The _Squares_ and _Streets_ are often spacious. College Green has a
statue of K. William III. in the centre. Fitzwilliam Square, small
but pretty. Merrion Square, open and airy, with some good buildings.
Mountjoy Square enjoys a most extensive prospect, and is elegantly laid
out. St. Stephen's Green is the largest square in Europe. Sackville
Street is also the widest street, having been originally a Mall, with
houses built on each side. Great, however, as these are, Sir R. C.
Hoare passes on them some severe criticisms, by no means unfounded.
In the _Environs_, see the Royal Canal and City Basin; ride round the
circular road for good views of the city; visit the light-house at the
extremity of a pier upwards of 3 m. in length; and ride over the Phœnix
Park, 7 m. in circumference.
_Excursions_ from Dublin, to the extent of a day's ride, may be
arranged in 4 directions, N.E., S.E., S.W., and N.W.
In the N.E., Beldoyle is a pleasant little village 6 m. near the Hill
of Howth, with enchanting marine prospects. Clontarf, a neat village
2-1/2 m., a fashionable bathing-place. Here fell Brian Boru, the Irish
king, in a battle with the Danes (1014). See the Castle and Ch.; also
some lead ore in the neighbouring quarry. Drumcondra, a pleasant
village, nearly unites with Dublin on the northern verge. The old Ch.
is neatly modernized, and contains a handsome monument to the memory of
Mr. Coghill, Chancellor of the Exchequer in the last century; but the
picturesque tourist will be more interested by the grave of the late
antiquary, Francis Grose, whose graphic hand here moulders in the dust.
See the superb mansion of Santry, 1 m.; and the view from Cloghran Ch.
on a lofty eminence. Howth, 7 m. E., is well worth visiting from the
metropolis on account of its extensive prospects. See the Light-house;
the rocky island of Ireland's Eye; the ancient Castle of the Earls
of Howth; the ruins of an ancient Chapel. The botanist will also
find several medicinal and fragrant plants among its rugged cliffs.
Howth House presents a venerable picture of antiquity to the eye of
taste. The surface of the peninsula on which it stands is sterile; but
swelling into a lofty hill is usually denominated the Hill of Howth:
its shores are rocky and precipitous, indented with creeks for small
craft, and abounding with gloomy caverns in which seals and porpoises
are often seen rolling their unwieldy bodies. Howth contains several
religious fragments worthy of notice. The ruins of the Ch. are extensive
and picturesque, and there is something interesting in tracing the
vestiges of the ancient monastery which once stood close to its
hallowed walls. Entering at the S. door the visitor passes into a hall,
out of which a door opens into the church shaded by venerable foliage.
Beyond this is the kitchen, with the ruins of several apartments. Close
by it is an ancient moat; and a small rivulet flows beneath the old
battlemented wall. See the new Pier; and make an excursion to Lambay
Island, where are ruins of an old Castle, and plenty of shell-fish
and rabbit shooting. Marino is a small Italian Casino, seated on a
pleasing lawn, margined on the higher part by a luxuriant shrubbery.
The whole possesses much elegance, lightness, and effect, and commands
a fine prospect. The rising ground on which it stands slopes off to
an agreeable accompaniment of wood, beyond which, on one side is the
harbour, which here has the appearance of a noble river covered with
shipping. See the venerable Ch. at Artane. Near it see the pleasant
village of Raheny; and the venerable Ch. at St. Douloghs, built before
the 11th century, most curious to the antiquary and architect.--In
the SOUTH EAST see Black Rock, a pleasant watering village, 4 m. S.E.,
beautifully situated on the bay, with extensive prospects. Visit Sea
point, and obelisk at Rochestown. Bullock is a village on the sea
coast, 7 m. from the capital; much frequented as a watering place.
On the cliffs are the extensive ruins of an old castle, of uncertain
antiquity; also a Druidical cromlech in a glen, deserving the notice of
the picturesque tourist. Dalkey, a village on the sea shore, contains
the ruins of two old castles. The island opposite to it has the ruins
of a Ch. and vestiges of an ancient sepulture. Also a martello tower.
The iron-bound coast is very romantic towards Killeny Hill, from whence
are some charming prospects, especially from the obelisk on the summit.
In tracing the bold and striking scenery towards Bray, the tourist will
not omit Mount Druid, the Circle, Gothic Tower, and ruins of Killeny
Ch. Donnybrook, on the extreme limits of the city, has a venerable Ch.;
go on to the magnificent mansion of Viscount Fitzwilliam, at Mount
Merrion; and to Stillorgan, 4 m., with most extensive prospect from the
Obelisk. Dundrum, 4 m., is noted for goats' whey: see deep Glen and
ancient Castle; enchanting scenery, and extensive prospects. Dunleary,
5 m., is a thriving village, with numerous natural beauties and much
recent improvement. See Martello Towers. At Rath mines, close to the
city, see the ruins of Baggotsrath Castle, celebrated in the military
history of this part of the island during the civil wars. Loughlinstown
has in its vicinity the venerable ruins of Tallagh Ch., with curious
sepulchral Crosses in an ancient cemetery, marked by legendary
superstitions. Rathfarnam, 3 m., beautifully seated on an eminence, has
near it the magnificent Castle of the Morgans of Ely. The elegant seat
of Marloy, and Southwell's Glen, with most romantic scenery; Druids
altar, and ancient Judgement Chair of the Brehon Laws. The pedestrian
may here spend a day delightfully.--In the SOUTH WEST, Chapelizod, a
handsome populous village, is close to the Phœnix Park, and famous
for its Strawberries. See picturesque and venerable Chapel, and fine
scenery towards Lucan. Clondalkin is a village about 4 m. from Dublin,
and worthy the notice of the tourist for its round tower, 84 feet in
height, close to a church of modern erection, but surrounded by ancient
ruins supposed to belong to a Danish palace, and an archiepiscopal
see. Tallagh, 5 m., a straggling village. See venerable archiepiscopal
palace, now deserted: also fine prospect from summit of the hill; and
Timoon Castle in ruins. In the NORTH WEST, see Castleknock, a small
pleasant village, 4 m. W., and its old Castle in ruins, built in the
reign of Hen. II. and commanding a fine view. Near it is the venerable
ruin of Drymnagh Castle, in a most romantic spot; also Dunsink, where
stands the Observatory. Glasmenogue, in the vicinity, is a station for
the passage-boats on the Royal Canal; an excursion on which cannot fail
to amuse the tourist.
GLASNEVIN is 2 m. N. of Dublin.--See the Botanic Garden of the Dublin
Society, well laid out and conducted upon the Linnean System. Its
hot-houses possess an immense variety of curious exotics, and the
whole extent is little short of twenty acres. Luttrell's Town, 3 m.
from Dublin, through the Phœnix Park: a fine seat, with handsome lawn
bounded by rich woods, through which are many ridings 4 m. in extent,
leading through a romantic glen by the side of a stream falling over a
rocky bed, amidst the dark foliage of steep slopes through which the
Liffey is heard or seen at intervals; the whole is of great extent, and
forms a most picturesque retirement.