Fergus, and possessing great capabilities from its maritime situation.
Its bays and harbours are numerous; but its coast is dangerous,
consisting principally of basaltic cliffs, which frown destruction on
the unhappy mariner who may be caught upon its lee shore. It is in most
parts mountainous, yet deficient in woody landscape; but the barony of
Burrin N. of Kilfernora is replete with rude magnificence; whilst the
lake and river scenery offers many beauties to the painter: bounded
on the S.E. by Limerick, W. by the Atlantic, N. by Galway Bay, E. by
Galway and Tipperary, and is nearly insulated by the Shannon and the
Ocean.
CLARE is a small town 4 m. from Ennis.--See the Abbey, extensive in
its ground plan and still venerable in decay, particularly a square
lofty tower lately in good preservation: it is of high antiquity,
having been founded as early as the 12th century by O'Brien, King of
North Munster, but was taken from St. Peter and St. Paul by Henry
VIII. and given to an ancestor of the Thomond family. The scene of
many sanguinary feudal battles in the 13th century. Ruins of an old
Castle 1 m. distant.
ENNIS is the shiretown, and 112 m. W. from Dublin.--Curwen observes,
that the approach to the town is delightful, on account of the
apparent comfort of the lower classes; the town itself neat and
thriving. See the neat modern Ch. surmounted by the ruins of the
venerable Abbey, one of the finest in Ireland, whose long narrow
windows, divided by stone railing, with the remnants of some delicate
carving and other architectural ornaments, are considered by Grose
as speaking its era, and the expense bestowed upon it in the 13th
century. See also the handsome Charity School. About 8 m. W. is
Callan mountain, where the antiquary may examine the tombstone, with
the Ogham inscription on Conan the Swift-footed, whose death and
burial-place are recorded in an historical tale supposed to have been
written by Ossian in the year 296. See also the Druidical altar on the
S. side of the mountain. Between Ennis and Lough Derg is Dromoland,
the venerable and antique mansion of the O'Briens, baronets. Crusheen,
5 m. N.E., has the ruins of an ancient Castle nearly surrounded by a
lake. Quin Abbey is 5 m. E., romantic and presenting a good portrait
of monastic times, with sombre cloisters, private passages, ruined
chapels, ancient monuments, and sainted statues. Near it is Spancel
Hill; Castle in ruins; 5 m. from which see Tulla Castle.
KILFENORA, 12 m. N.W. of Ennis, is on the borders of the romantic
district of Burrin. See the ancient Cathedral, with its numerous
sanctified and heraldic ornaments: statue of St. Fechnan the founder,
in the choir; seven crosses of a single stone each, with antique
sculpture. Corcomroe Abbey, a few miles to the S.W., was the scene
of many feudal battles between the O'Connors and O'Briens, of which
there are some monuments. Near it is Ennistymond, a pleasant village,
several Castles in ruins, particularly Inchiquin and Moyvore. The
tourist must not omit the extensive and astonishing prospect from
Hagshead, 1300 feet above the level of the ocean, exhibiting some
of the grandest scenes of nature: near it were wrecked part of the
Spanish Armada.
KILLALOE, 20 m. E. of Ennis,--stands in a hilly country on the
Shannon, which rolls rapidly over an irregular bed of rock. A bridge
of 18 arches leads to the town, after which the ascent is steep; but
the Cathedral stands at the bottom close to the river, and lately
fitted up in a modern style. The southern portal, North Chapel, is a
most curious and well sculptured specimen of rich Gothic architecture,
of a grotesque and irregular design, and, though evidently a doorway,
has been considered by some persons as a monument. The font has some
curious arabesque ornaments. See the Oratory, a curious specimen of
the religious architecture of the Ostmen in the 9th century, and one
of the oldest structures of wood and stone in the island. Its rude
walls are not very high, but the gables are pyramidal and lofty; and a
small room is still pretty entire, where devotees have long resorted
to offer prayers and religious bribes to the patron saint, St. Molva.
See the Salmon Fishery and Eel Weir. Whilst in this vicinity, visit
Lough Derg, and notice the bay of Skariff with a wooded peninsula,
and island of 20 acres called Holy Island, on which are a round tower
70 feet high, and the ruins of seven churches. See also the demesne
of Mr. Parker at Castle Lough, which affords to the artist a series
of extensive and charming views. Some caverns of limestone rock at
Mitchel's Town. At Cancora see the earth-works of the ancient palace
of the kings of Thomond, first erected by the famous Brian Boroimhe.
O'Brien's Bridge, a village on the banks of the Shannon, with a
bridge of 14 arches; sometimes called Montpellier, on account of its
medicinal springs of a sulphureous nature, much frequented by company
in the season. The country round not very picturesque, but improving
in cultivation, with many genteel residences: yet if the traveller in
his route from Killaloe to Limerick takes the road by Castle Connel,
which however is rather a detour, he will be amply gratified by
the interesting scenery. In the vale 2-1/2 m. from the springs, is
Coolastigue Castle in ruins; a little further Rhin Row Castle; and
beyond that Castle Troy, all emblems of the devastations of war and
time. Nearer to Limerick stands Mount Shannon, the seat of Lord Clare.
KILRUSH, about 22 m. W. of Ennis, and towards the mouth of the
Shannon,--has nothing remarkable, but forms a station for many
surrounding objects of curiosity. Towards Buncragy is a magnificent
prospect from the summit of a hill, called Paradise, looking up as
high as Limerick. Near it is the picturesque island of Canna with
ruins of an Abbey. Carrigaholt, about 15 m. W., has some remains
of an old Castle, of which many legendary tales are in existence.
Iniscattery Island, towards the mouth of the Shannon, contains the
ruins of 7 churches out of 11 erected by St. Senanus, a disciple of
St. Patrick; also a round tower 120 feet high. In monastic times the
fair sex were excluded from this island: near it is Miltown Malbay, a
watering place coming into fashion; its vicinity most interesting to
the geologist: where see the Puffing Hole, a curious cavern pervious
to the ocean, which exhibits various extraordinary phænomena.
SIXMILE BRIDGE, 15 m. E. of Ennis,--has nothing curious in itself; but
see the seat of Mount Jevers, and 2 m. distant the ruins of the once
famous Castle of Bunratty.
MINERALS.
Iron evidently exists in many parts of the county; as there are many
chalybeate springs, particularly Ballykett, Fierd, and Monmore, in
the western district: also manganese; some indications of coal; black
limestone near the mouth of the Shannon; and the earths would doubtless
repay the investigation of the mineralogist.
BOTANY.
_Adiantum Capillus Veneris_, True Maiden Hair:--on the rocky mountains
of Burrin.
_Arundo arenaria_, Sea Matweed:--on the sandy beaches.
_Asclepias Vincetoxicum_, (Lin.) Swallow Wort:--on the rocky mountains
of Burrin.
_Butomus umbellatus_, Flowering Rush:--in the vicinity of Clare and
Correfin.
_Crithmum maritimum_, Samphire:--on sea cliffs.
_Dryas octopetala_, Mountain Avens:--found in Burrin on the limestone
mountains in abundance, where scarce any other vegetable will exist.
_Gentiana verna_, Spring Gentian:--on limestone gravelly soils near
Galway Bay.
_Juniperus communis_, Juniper:--in mountainous districts.
_Ricinus communis_, (Lin.) _Palma Christi_, or Greater Spurge:--in
Burrin.
_Rubus saxatilis_, Stone Bramble:--in the woods of Cratulagh.
_Satureja montana_, (Lin.) Winter Savory:--on the mountains of Burrin.
_Saxifraga granulata_, White Sengreen or Saxifrage:--in dry meadows and
pastures in Burrin.
_Senecio saracenicus_, Broad-leaved Ragwort:--near Corfin.
_Spiræa Filipendula_, Dropwort:--in Burrin barony.
_Teucrium Chamæpitys_, Ground Pine:--in the rocky mountains of Burrin.
CORK
Is the largest county in the kingdom, and is said to possess more good
and more bad land than any other. The vales fertile; well watered
with numerous rivulets: maritime also, and having a great extent of
sea-coast broken into numerous excellent harbours. Its scenery affords
great variety to the tourist, especially in the S.W. district, where a
range of lofty mountains extend to the ocean on the borders of Dunmanus
Bay. The general surface is indeed rugged and broken, but not so as to
impede agricultural labour, except in some districts, and even there
they extend cultivation by burning turf fires on the rocks, after which
they pour cold water on them and split them readily--a fact which seems
to throw some light upon Hannibal's passage of the Alps. Some of the
bogs in winter are impassable, especially on the N.W.; yet even these
are grazed in summer by immense herds of cattle. Miss Plumptre states
that a number of new roads are now making in all parts of the county,
which will much accommodate the tourist. It is bounded on the N.E. by
Waterford, N. by Tipperary and Limerick, N.W. by Kerry, the remainder
by the ocean.
BALTIMORE, 43 m. from Cork, has a good harbour; but having been
plundered and burnt by the Algerines in 1631, is become a mean
village. The country round it is rude and romantic, and there are
many ancient Castles in decay. The tourist may from hence visit Cape
Clear, the southernmost point of Ireland, on an island, where see
ruins of Dunanore Castle, with the Cave and ruined Ch. of St. Kieran.
Skibbereen, 5 m. from Baltimore, is described by Miss Plumptre as
improving in its appearance. See Market-house and Ch.; also the ruins
of Abbey Showery with ancient tombs.
BANDON, 12 m. S.W. of Cork,--is in a district not very interesting;
it is extensive but ill built. See Castle Bernard, 1 m. W., also
Dundanere Castle, and the chalybeate spring. Inishonan, a village,
with a linen manufactory and bleach-greens. Miss Plumptre praises
the scenery in the dell in which it stands, with good bridge, wooded
slopes backed by the Ch., and venerable ruin of an ancient Castle.
BANTRY, about 35 m. W. of Cork,--is situated on one of the finest
bays in the world, and was noted by the defeat of the French squadron
in 1796. The scenery amidst the mountains in which this town is
embosomed, Mr. Wakefield thinks scarcely, if at all, exceeded by any
other in the island, with the exception of Killarney. The views in all
directions are bold, wild, and romantic; especially towards the head
of the bay, which is mountainous, and abounding with scenes as rude
and wild as imagination can paint or fancy anticipate. Miss Plumptre
also describes it as highly worthy the notice of the picturesque
tourist; and Mr. Wakefield observes, that the ride to Coolranny Bridge
he thinks one of the most delightful that can be conceived. The ascent
from that place to the Gowl mountains is very fine, from the gap of
which the whole bay appears in its full extent, with lofty mountains
on the opposite shore, and Cape Clear in the distant prospect rising
above them all. Near this is Hungray Hill, 700 yards above the bay,
being 20 miles from Bantry, but amply repaying by the most extensive
prospect from its summit, whilst the falls of water down its sides in
the winter season are extremely grand. But the greatest charm in the
vicinity of Bantry is Glengariff, the road to which runs through some
fine mountain scenery, and near it is the modern mansion of Mr. White,
surrounded by extensive woods and standing on the edge of one of the
finest indentations of the bay, perfect in its form and embosomed at
the foot of lofty mountains: much of the surrounding beauty arises
from the luxuriant foliage of arbutus, holly, and birch; whilst every
turn opens a new glen, everywhere presenting varied and enchanting
scenery, beautifully contrasted by the wildness of the opposite
mountains. It is not a trifling addition to the amenity of this spot,
that the mildness of the winter only strips the deciduous trees of
their leaves for a very short time, whilst geraniums and myrtles, and
many of the tenderest plants actually remain unsheltered during the
whole year. Dursey Island in the bay has the ruins of a Castle. The
Priest's Leap is a mountainous pass leading over Mangerton towards
Killarney.
CASTLE LYONS, 15 m. N.E. of Cork.--A well built town in an agreeable
vale on the banks of the Bride river. See Lord Barrymore's mansion
erected on the ruins of O'Lehan's Castle; also ruins of a Franciscan
Abbey, 1307. Near it Kilrea Castle in ruins, to the E. of which the
venerable remains of an Abbey dedicated to St. Bridgid, about 1450,
with ancient tombs and numerous awful indications of mortality.
CASTLEMARTYR, 16 m. from Cork, a large manufacturing town.--See
the ruins of the ancient Castle, and the seat and grounds of the
Boyle family: the house itself is worth seeing, being antique and
assimilating well with the richly clad wild remains of an ancient
castle, whose venerable turrets in majestic ruin peep forth from
the thick foliage at a short distance; add to this an extensive
sheet of water, which gives life to the surrounding scenery. Let the
botanical tourist pay particular attention to the flower-garden and
green-houses, elegantly arranged under the taste and genius of the
Countess of Shannon. Visit Ballycotton Bay, with extensive strand,
good wild fowl shooting and excellent flat- and shell-fish. See there
the Ch. and Castle of Ballycrenane. About 1 m. S.E. is the river Dour,
which breaks out from a limestone rock, after a subterraneous course
of near half a mile, and forms a small lake, where the Halcyon or
Kingsfisher is found in great numbers: Charleville, 14 m. N. of Cork,
on the borders of Limerick; see Charter School, Ch. and Barracks. The
magnificent seat of the Earls of Orrery was burnt down in the wars of
the Revolution by the Duke of Berwick after dinner, like the ancient
Persepolis.
CLOGHNAKILTY, 22 m. S.W. of Cork,--is seated on a shoal and dangerous
bay. See the plain neat Ch. pleasingly situated, but the town is
described by Miss Plumptre as poor and dirty. Dundedy or Galway Head
has some curious caves worn out by the sea, also ruins of an old
Castle. Iniskean, about 8 m. N., has close to it the ruins of Kinigh
Ch. with remarkable round tower, a hexagon at the bottom and the upper
part round, 70 feet high and 124 feet from the Ch. At Temple Bryan,
1 m. distant, are some remains of an ancient Temple; near the Ch. a
stone circle with central pyramidal pillar, and two other pyramids
in the immediate vicinity. At Timoleague, about 5 m. E., see ruins
of O'Shaughnessy's Castle, and the extensive remains of a venerable
Franciscan Abbey, 1350, with numerous tombs of Irish chieftains,
Gothic cloisters, and romantic ruins of the ancient monastic
apartments: see also the Holy Well.
CLOYNE, about 16 m. from Cork.--See the Cathedral; the Bishop's
Palace; a small Castle of the Fitzgeralds; a round tower near the Ch.;
a Danish rath, and a deep extensive cave in a park near the town. 1
m. W. at Castle Mary, the seat of Lord Longueville, see the Druids'
altar, a large stone 15 feet in length, 8 in breadth, and 9 feet
from the ground. In the vicinity the mineralogist will find a white
substance tinged with yellow ochre, which does not effervesce with
acids, but forms a good white paint if mixed with linseed oil. Here
also are quarries of fine gray marble. 2 m. W. is Rostellan, the seat
of the Marquis of Thomond, with a fine view of Cork harbour, and built
on the ruins of an ancient Castle. To the S.W. see Corkbeg, a modern
seat with some ecclesiastical ruins near it. The tourist may also
proceed to the strand of Ballycroneen to visit an ancient pillar on a
hill; also Lascally, a strong moted Danish encampment; Bally Kendrick
Castle, &c.
CORK, the second city of Ireland, is 124 m. S.W. of Dublin.--Sir
Rich. C. Hoare describes it as affording more interest to the
commercial than the antiquarian tourist; and Miss Plumptre observes
that it is upon the whole recommendable to the eye only as having a
general appearance of comfort and prosperity, not as offering any
particular subjects to dwell upon. Mr. Curwen indeed views it with a
more favourable notice, and finds many things to approve. Seated on
the river Lea, the old town rising on a hill forms an amphitheatre;
in the new town some of the streets are spacious, well-built,
and handsome. See the Cathedral partly modernized; the Parade, a
spacious street with equestrian statue of Geo. II.; the Exchange;
Custom House; Botanic Garden belonging to the Literary Institution;
Barracks; extensive Porter Brewery; manufactories of Paper, Glass,
and Cloth; Market House, &c. The environs are thickly studded with
mercantile villas, and present views of happy amelioration. See
at Ballyvacadane, 4 m. from Cork, a ruined Abbey; and Ballincolly
Castle built upon a rock. Barrymore Island in the bay deserves the
notice of the geologist from the circumstance of having a stratum
of limestone running through it, although nothing but a red gritty
stone exists upon the main land in its vicinity. Blarney Castle, 3 m.
distant, must not be forgotten by the tourist. It stands on a bold
romantic rock, its walls 18 feet thick, and bore a long siege at the
Revolution, but was taken by King William's troops. Part only of the
ancient Castle remains, but with modern additions. Those who please
may kiss the well-known stone on the summit of the tower, and acquire
a perpetual license for flattery and fiction. Carigrohan Castle to
the W. has still some remains on a high precipice over the river. The
tourist may visit Cove, and the Giant's Stairs, a curious natural
production. The marine views in an aquatic excursion to Cork Harbour
are very fine; the whole of it is indeed surrounded by stations which
command the most beautiful and diversified prospects. If approaching
it direct from the sea, the grand panorama which opens to the view in
sailing up the narrow entrance, has a most striking effect: on the
right Cork Beg, a seat of the Fitzgeralds, with some Abbey ruins;
beyond it the woods of Rostellan, the seat of the Marquis of Thomond;
then Haulbowling Island, and the lofty hills to the left, forming
altogether a grand and impressive scene. Glanmire, 5 m. distant, is a
beautiful glen on a narrow arm of the sea, with neat village and Ch.
and good view of the harbour. At Monkstown see the fine old Castle on
a wooded eminence.
DONERAILE, about 16 m. N. of Cork,--has a neat Ch. with lofty spire;
see the Barracks on ruins of the old Castle; also some quarries of
variegated marble near to it. See ruins of Castletown Roche, gallantly
defended by Lady Roche against Cromwell's forces; also Carrigrocunny
Castle and romantic ruins of an ancient Abbey at Bridgetown. Castle
Saffron, 1 m. E., has several agreeable cascades on the river.
Kilcoleman Castle in ruins, 2 m. N.W., will always be interesting
to the lover of ancient British poetry, as the spot where Spenser
wrote his Faëry Queen. The scenery is magnificent, and the prospect
extensive. Monanimy, about 7 m. S., has the ruins of an old Castle and
Abbey.
FERMOY, a newly built elegant town of four streets crossing each
other at right angles, the work of a Scotch gentleman, Mr. Anderson,
is about 15 m. N.E. of Cork; with a bridge of 13 arches mantled with
ivy. See the extensive barracks; modern Ch.; ruins of ancient Castles
in its vicinity. See Ballyhooly, a picturesque village; also Castle
Hyde, a seat well wooded; and ruins of Creg Castle. Miss Plumptre and
Mr. Curwen speak highly of the patriotic improvements in this town and
vicinity.
KINSALE, 12 m. S. of Cork,--has a spacious harbour, and has been
noted from the earliest times in Irish history. It was taken by the
Spaniards in 1600, and stood a siege by the Duke of Marlborough in
James's wars. See some remains of ruined Abbeys in the town: visit
also Charles Fort, 1 m. E. in 1670. The picturesque tourist may visit
the Old Head, 4 m. S., with Light-house, and ruins of Duncearma
Castle, the old seat of Irish kings.
KILWORTH, a thriving town about 20 m. N.E. of Cork,--has some good
mountain scenery in its vicinity. Near it is Moorfield, the superb
residence of Lord Mount Cashel, also ruins of Cloughleagh Castle.
MACROOM, about 16 m. W. of Cork.--See ancient Castle built by King
John, still inhabited; also the handsome Ch. In the river Sillane the
sportsman will find good trout-fishing. At Agh-a-bollogue, see old Ch.
and Holy Well, with the stone called St. Olan's Cap, about which are
many superstitious and legendary tales. At Ballyvourney, 6 m. W., see
ruins of Ch. with stone Cross and Holy Well. At Carig-a-drohid, 3 m.
E., ruins of Castle on steep romantic rocks; and at Carrigafouky, 2
m. W., ancient ruins of MacCarty's Castle on a wild craggy precipice,
with remains of a Druidical altar. Dunda Rock, 6 m. S., has a lofty
Castle commanding a most extensive prospect. Glyncaum, or the crooked
Glyn, is a deep hollow way between steep craggy rocky walls covered
with forest trees and shrubby foliage, to the S. of which see ruins of
Magshanagloss Castle. Gougenabera, 5 m. N., on the road from Cork to
Killarney, presents most romantic scenery round the wild solitude of
its secluded lake. Near it is Inchigeela, which offers considerable
amusement to the mineralogist. At Lesecresig, on the summit of a hill
2 m. from Macroom, see an ancient cairn with Druidical altar.
MALLOW, 12 m. N. of Cork, has long been celebrated as a
watering-place. See ruins of an old Castle, Ch., and Barracks; also
bridge over the Blackwater, and ruins of an ancient Castle in the
well wooded Jephson demesne. Sir R. C. Hoare details some curious
traditions respecting it. Also Ballyellis, handsome seat of the Hare
family. At Ballynamona, 3 m. S. (so famed in Irish melodies), are
ruins of Mourne Abbey. Buttevant, a few miles distant, will amply
repay the antiquary for a visit, by the remains of its venerable
Abbey; ruins of ancient towers and other picturesque scenery: near
to it see Ballybeg, where are ruins of an ancient monastery of
Augustines. Dromagh, about 10 m. N.W., has an old Castle of the
O'Keefes, with ruins of a Nunnery: and at Kanturk, 3 m. distant, are
several remnants of castellated antiquity. Liscarrol, about 5 m. W.
of Buttevant, has an ancient Castle in ruins, and was the scene of
sanguinary battles in the civil wars. See deep hole, supposed to be
fathomless, called Kateshole. Lohort Castle is an old Elizabethan
mansion of Lord Arden, fortified in the ancient style with a moat,
having a fine terrace on its roof and surrounded with pleasing
plantations. Newmarket in the vicinity has some good mountain scenery;
and the tourist may visit Woodfort, a handsome seat, with a turret on
a hill, from whence a most enchanting prospect.
MITCHELSTOWN, a neat little town, 21 m. N.E. of Cork.--See the
magnificent seat of Lord Kingston, and the College, a liberal charity.
See in the vicinity, at Brigowne, 1 m., ruins of Ch. and round tower:
1-1/2 m., ruins of Caherdriny Castle; 2 m., ruins of Carriganoura
Castle. Castle Hyde near to Mitchelstown deserves a visit. The
grounds are extensive, and the house is curiously seated at the base
of a lofty rock. The park contains much diversified scenery, and
is traversed by the romantic Blackwater. See the marble quarries,
esteemed as handsome as any in Ireland; of a dark gray colour with
various shades, and a rich display of shells. At Skehewrinky, see
the cave in a limestone hill of dangerous descent, but beautifully
encrusted with spar and resembling a vaulted cathedral.
MIDDLETON, half way between Cork and Youghall, at the N.E. corner
of Cork harbour. See some ancient ruins of a Castle and Abbey; the
Market-house; public Freeschool, an elegant building; some remains
of Danish works and a large rath at Ballinachora. Several of the
curiosities are noticed under CLOYNE.