consists of most extensive bogs of extraordinary depth and a remarkably
black soil, and thereby affords no scenery worth attention. But in the
immediate vicinity of the city of Armagh, the tourist is gratified
by a richer prospect, where an abundant population finds employment
in well inclosed and well cultivated fields. To the southward the
appearance deteriorates, especially in that part called the Fews; a
district of dark black mountains, where the hand of industry or the eye
of taste has scarcely yet penetrated. Yet it is well worthy the notice
of the picturesque tourist, from its alpine views, particularly round
Slieve Gullien, which rivals the loftiest in England or Wales. In the
vicinity of Armagh the soil is fertile, consisting generally of a rich
brown loam with limestone and limestone gravel, and the appearance of
the gently undulating grounds has been compared to eggs set in salt:
bounded on the S.W. by Monaghan; W. by Tyrone; N. by Lough Neagh; E.
by Down; S.E. by Louth. The two principal lakes are Carlough and Lough
Clay.
ARMAGH, 62 m. from Dublin, the metropolitan see of all
Ireland,--stands on the acclivity of a lofty mountain, the top
occupied by the Cathedral which forms a fine object. The place is
considerable; the new streets handsome. Archbishop's Palace adjoining
the town, a modern edifice of unadorned simplicity: barracks large,
airy, and even elegant: see the College; commodious Charter School:
New Ch. of white stone with handsome spire: Public Infirmary, Public
Library, and Observatory: curious market Cross. Examine improvements
of the late Archbishop, aided by the judicious exertions of the
present Primate. About 5 m. W. is Clonfeckle, on the borders of
Tyrone, deserving the notice of the agricultural tourist as the
residence and farm of Dr. Richardson, the cultivator of Fiorin grass.
(_Curwen's Letters_, vol. ii. p. 319.) Also Lisnadell, 5 m. S.
of Armagh: handsome Ch. and Glebe House, erected by the patriotic
Archbishop Robinson. About 10 m. S. is Newton Hamilton, stated in
tradition as the scene of a sanguinary battle between the great O'Neil
and a chieftain of Louth, in consequence of the latter singeing the
beard of his guest at a banquet, and in which O'Neil lost his life.
See also near to it remains of an old Cromwellian encampment: and
ruins of Black Bank Castle.
CHARLEMONT, 7 m. N. of Armagh.--A good town and military depôt. See
the fort and barracks.
JONESBOROUGH, a small village, but a good station for the visitant
of the wild mountain scenery in its vicinity, particularly Slieve
Gullien. Rocks, caverns, glyns, from a bold ascent, are the features
of the summit of this mountain, without the smallest appearance of
any calcareous matter; and although there have not hitherto, says Sir
C. Coote, been any minerals discovered here, yet there is a strong
probability of their existence from the metallic tinge of the waters
which burst from its sides, oozing in plentiful discharges even in
the driest seasons. On its summit is a cairn of stones which form the
roof of a cavern that at first view appears to be natural, but on
minute investigation has evident testimony of being the work of art.
The apartment is difficult of entrance, but is large within; and as
there is a flagged way to the edge of the lake at the foot, it seems
intended for other than sepulchral purposes. Sir C. Coote observes,
that perhaps a bolder prospect is not presented by any mountain in
Ireland than from its summit, comprising a great extent of country;
the lakes and streams, the several towns and well-cultivated demesnes,
together with the bay of Dundalk, where the declivity is terminated;
these, with a thousand other natural beauties which are presented
to view, will repay the fatigue of the ascent, and an awful and
impressive pleasure is afforded in contemplating the bold promontories
and rugged cliffs bared by the tempests, and arresting the floating
meteors, throughout furnishing ample resources for the inquisitive
philosopher.
LURGAN, about 14 m. N.E. from Armagh.--A large town, principally
of one extensive and neatly kept street; surrounded by the linen
manufacture, Ch. and Spire. See the house and handsome grounds of
the Brownlow family, with good views of Lough Neagh. The mansion, an
antique Castle.
MARKETHILL, a thriving town about 4 m. S.E. from Armagh, with good
Inn.--In the Fews a wild, barren, but romantic district, the admirers
of Dean Swift will be gratified in tracing many spots noticed by that
eccentric character; especially Hamilton's Bawn, Gosford Castle, and
Draper's Hill, about 1 m. distant. Throughout these wild and romantic
mountains there is something very interesting, awful, and grateful, to
the lover of nature, elevating the inquisitive mind, and inspiring a
strong desire to explore their inmost recesses, and a desire to become
familiar with so sublime a solitude. (_See further, Sir C. Coote's
Survey of County_, p. 35.)
PORTADOWN, 3 m. S. of Lurgan,--is a neat town on the Bann, at the
junction of the Newry canal with that river.
RICH HILL, about 4 m. N.E. from Armagh,--is a small village, but
deserves notice for the beautiful residence of Sir Capel Molyneux at
Castle Dillon, with extensive plantations, lakes, &c. and two handsome
columns in honour of St. Patrick and the volunteers of Ireland. The
appearance of the village itself is interesting, and considerably
improved by the elegant demesne of Mr. Richardson, in full view of
the street, with antique Castle. Proceed through a charmingly wooded
country towards the Church of Kilmore, and thence by good roads
to Loughgall village, where is Drummilly, an ancient mansion with
extensive plantations.
TANDERAGEE, 10 m. E. of Armagh,--affords good specimens of the linen
manufacture. Acton village, 5 m. S., the scene of many bloody contests
in the feudal times, especially at Points Pass; and near to it is
Scarvagh Pass on the borders of Down.
TYNAN, about 6 m. S.W. of Armagh,--stands pleasantly on an eminence
near a river of the same name. See excellent Ch. and lofty steeple:
also in the Church-yard an oblong stone of about 18 inches square and
4 feet long, set upon a large block stone, and capped with another,
divided into square compartments, and having vestiges of sculpture.
1 m. ruins of ancient Castle. About 6 m. S. Keady, a small village
on the river Callen, crowded with mills and bleach-greens. See the
handsome Ch., also the rich lead-mines.
MINERALS.
Lead:--in the vicinity of Tynan; rich ore.
Iron exists, at least in small quantities, as evinced by the chalybeate
springs in the mountainous districts.
Fossils are stated, in the _County Survey_, to be in great variety, as
yet little known, but affording ample investigation to the geologist.
BOTANY.
_Colchicum autumnale_, Meadow Saffron:--on the borders of the
Blackwater and Callen rivers.
_Euphrasia_, Eyebright:--in low grounds near the Lough.
_Hippuris_, Marestail:--at the mouth of the Bann.
_Iris_, or Flag:--on the banks of the river Callen.
_Lobelia Dortmanna_, Water Gladiole:--in Lough Neagh.
_Mentha aquatica_, Water Mint:--common in low grounds.
_Menyanthes_, Purple Buckbean:--beautiful specimens in various places.
_Nymphæa_, Water Lily (White and Yellow):--on the borders of Lough
Neagh, and in muddy ditches.
_Parnassia_, Grass of Parnassus:--on Tynan river.
_Phellandrium aquaticum_:--on the banks of Cushier and Blackwater
rivers.
_Potamogeton natans_, Pondweed:--in stagnant waters near Lough Neagh.
_Ranunculus_, Crowfoot:--in the marshy grounds.
_Scrophularia aquatica_, Water Figwort:--on the banks of Newry Water.
_Senecio paludosus_, Bird's Tongue:--in low marshes.
_Subularia aquatica_, Awlwort:--under the water in Lough Neagh.
_Thalictrum flavum_, Meadow Rue:--on the lake side near summit of
Slieve Gullien.
_Typha angustifolia_, Narrow-leaved Catstail:--very common.
CARLOW
Is a small county; interesting to the picturesque tourist from the
variety, if not from the sublimity of its scenery; but even in that
he may be gratified whilst rambling amidst the mountainous chain from
Mount Leinster to Blackstairs on the S., a district awfully grand and
majestic, and the range impassable except at Scullogh Gap, resembling
the Ghauts or passes in the mountains of India. In the western part of
the county also, on the banks of the Barrow, the rugged mountainous
range is beautifully fringed with timber, even to the summits of
some of its loftiest hills, agreeably chequered by cultivation, and
studded with the mansions of opulence, whose snow-white chimneys
peeping through the foliage give earnest of the national hospitality
that reigns amongst them. Indeed all writers agree, that some of the
most beautiful and picturesque scenery in Ireland is to be met with
in this division of the county and around the town of Carlow. It is a
curious remark of Mr. Wakefield respecting this county, that it has
neither a temporal nor spiritual peer resident within it; and yet,
though destitute of manufactures, it is tenanted by more wealthy people
than almost any other county in the island. It is worthy of remark
also, that the fee has been transferred more here than in any other
part of the country, and that a great part of it belonged formerly to
Quakers. Bounded on the N. by Kildare, E. by Wicklow and Wexford, S. by
Kilkenny, W. by Queen's County.
CARLOW, 39 m. from Dublin,--is a neat and flourishing town, well
situated for inland commerce on the river Barrow. Wakefield describes
it as abounding with "houses of entertainment, for almost every shop
has attached to it a house which is used as an inn." Examine its
Woollen manufactures: some slight remains of its ancient Castle,
which recently fell, a mere heap of ruins: the venerable old Ch.,
from the vicinity of which is a very extensive view, commanding a
fertile and well wooded country enlivened by the majestic windings
of the river Barrow: ruins of the very fine Abbey founded before the
English conquest: the Roman Catholic College, an extensive building,
with good gardens and a park for the students' recreation, with the
Gaol, Barracks, &c. Miss Plumptre says, that "Carlow is superior
to most towns in the kingdom in the neatness of its appearance:"
and Hall says that "the ground about it is better improved than in
many parts of England." The town and immediate vicinity present some
historical recollections; and though the English tourist may not be
much interested in the disputes of the Earls of Kildare and Thomond,
and the predatory exploits of O'More; yet events of a later date,
connected with its siege by Ireton in the civil wars, may lead to
inquiry and investigation. It was also the scene of a sanguinary
battle, though on a small scale, in the year 1798, being assaulted
by the rebels before day-break, and successfully defended by a small
party of military and the loyal yeomanry. The visitor will not omit
the pleasing domain of Mr. Cavanagh, in the immediate vicinity, from
whence the Blackstairs mountains form a striking object; though not
lofty, yet bold, bleak, and rugged. Mr. Curwen speaks highly of
the scenery in the vale between Carlow and Leighlin Bridge, with
enchanting and extensive prospects over a rich country of the most
sublime and picturesque features. This valley is about six miles
in breadth, bounded on each side by a chain of mountains finely
wooded, well inclosed, and cultivated to their summits. Villages
and gentlemen's seats to be seen on all sides, with whitewashed
cottages well sheltered by trees, and presenting a pleasing air of
rural comfort and industry. See Ardglass, 4 m. N., a high green hill,
from whence there is a most enchanting prospect of the county, and
also Kildare. On its summit is an ancient Catholic Chapel, built in
form of a cross, but much resembling a dilapidated barn: read some
justly-flattering epitaphs to the Grace family, not badly written.
At Kellystown, on the east bank of the Barrow, extensive ruins of a
Ch. said to have been first erected by St. Patrick. At Staplestown
2 m. S.E. a pleasing mansion of Mr. Bagnall, once intended to rival
Versailles, the grounds owing much both to nature and art, and watered
by the romantic little river Burrin.
LEIGHLIN BRIDGE,--is a small village about 8 m. S. of Carlow, with
remains of an ancient Castle and some monastic ruins, which have also
been castellated. The view from the bridge with the Black Castle at
one end is very fine, though the bridge itself is more venerable
than picturesque; built in 1320, by a liberal canon of Kildare. The
course of the river Barrow presents views of great fertility and
beauty, though certainly not so romantic as many smaller streams. See
Bally Ellen Castle in ruins about 8 m. S.; also Ballylaghan Castle,
which presents a gateway between two lofty circular towers, in the
style of Tunbridge Castle. Though the castle stands low, yet the
view to the westward is very fine; and, as its walls are in pretty
good preservation, it affords an amusing object of research to the
antiquary, who may ascend some ruinous staircases into several of
the apartments, and gratify his fancy by the recollection of past
times. Ballymorn Castle, 5 m. distant, is an extensive ruin standing
in a deep vale surrounded by lofty mountains. It is of the middle
ages, but has Gothic windows in the interior, and has the peculiarity
of its outer walls being perforated by a gallery from whence the
garrison could discharge their missiles through numerous loop-holes.
Only one large tower remains. Clonmore is an extensive and pleasing
ruin, presenting a good idea of the arrangements, half military half
domestic, of the earlier times, though unroofed and much dilapidated,
but rendered venerable by the covering of thick ivy that mantles its
walls, affording shelter to the birds of night. Fenough, 9 m. S.E.,
has an old Castle near the church, once a residence of the kings of
Leinster. Garryhaddon, 2 m. N.E., a deserted mansion of the Ormond
family, has an appearance of ancient magnificence, with an extensive
park and gardens. Whilst the picturesque tourist is rambling through
the Carlow mountains, he will not omit visiting a deep recess in the
Slieumargah, where stand the remains of the Abbey of Old Leighlin,
recorded in the earliest monastic legends, but now exhibiting no
remnants of architecture anterior to the 12th century, when it was
re-edified, after destruction by fire about the time of the Norman
conquest. Here was once a celebrated episcopal city; but the ruins of
the Abbey, of which the cathedral is still kept in decent repair as
a parish Ch., alone remain. The Abbey, though not very extensive, is
deserving of notice on account of its pinnacled spire and the rich
tracery of its Gothic windows, being about the time of Hen. II. or at
least re-edified after a destructive fire; but suffered to sink into
ruin since the union of the Sees of Leighlin and Ferns. On the west
side of the Ch. under some trees, see the once celebrated well of St.
Laferian, now nearly filled up, and near it a rude stone cross. The
antiquary will also find subjects of research in some old termini
or stones of memorial erected by Bishop Harlewin about 1216, as
boundaries of the liberties of the ancient city; one of these is close
by Leighlin Bridge, another near Wells, and a third on the mountains.
Ledwich gives a good engraving in his _Antiquities_. The antiquary
will derive some pleasure from a visit to a small village, St.
Mullins, about 15 m. S.E. from Leighlin Bridge and agreeably seated
on the Barrow. This place, particularly its extensive burial-ground,
possesses much sanctity in the opinions of the lower Irish, from its
antiquity, having been founded as early as the 7th century by a saint
of the name, who built the church here and was bishop of Ferns. This
episcopal eremite long inhabited the gloomy vale of Glendaloch, was
a great patriot, causing the remission of a tax of oxen, and a great
prophet also. The ruins, though not very extensive, are picturesque,
and the whole scene one of solemn meditation, backed by the lofty
mountains of Blackstairs.
TULLOW, 10 m. E. of Carlow.--A pleasant town on the Slaney. Bridge
of six arches: close to it ruins of an Abbey: Castle converted into
barracks: neat Ch. and Market-house:--taken by Cromwell after a
sanguinary siege. Hackets Town, about 7 m. N.E., a small neat village,
the scene of two violent assaults by the rebels in 1798. Mount
Leinster, about 8 m. S., deserves the sportsman's notice, for its
hares, foxes, and grouse; also a well said to be unfathomable, and
much resorted to for medicinal purposes.
MINERALS.
Limestone in great abundance.
BOTANY.
Hitherto uninvestigated.
CAVAN.
CAVAN, though an inland district, possesses more water scenery and
more diversified than any other in the island, with the exception of
Kerry; for here the tourist meets with many beautiful and picturesque
landscapes enlivened by small lakes, in some places spreading into
expanse, in others assuming the form of rivers, proceeding from the
lakes of Westmeath in their course to Lough Erne. The general face of
the county consists of eminences, which, though not very lofty, yet
rugged and uneven, afford a great variety of prospect, and swell into
mountains on the borders of Fermanagh and Leitrim. This county came
very late into civilization or even cultivation, being one of the most
celebrated in the ancient feuds and wars for its fastnesses, woods,
bogs, and all the natural impediments so formidable in warfare. It is
exactly midway between the Atlantic Ocean and St. George's Channel; but
its extremes are not more than 14 m. distant from the sea:--the tourist
will find the roads rather indifferent. Bounded on the N. by Fermanagh
and Monaghan, E. by Westmeath, S. by Longford, W. by Leitrim.
BELTURBET, about 8 m. N.W. of Cavan; built upon an eminence above the
river Erne, on which there is much romantic scenery.--See the Tower
and Market-house, and some vestiges of an ancient fortification beyond
the church. Ballyconnel, 5 m. W., is a good station for head-quarters
in viewing this end of Lough Erne. Examine Ortnacullagh mountain
for minerals and spars. Ballyhayes, though only a common village,
possesses some antique and fantastical buildings that show it to have
once been a place of considerable note. The Mansion-house is a curious
specimen of Irish feudal splendour. Near it the poor but enchantingly
situated village of Butler's Bridge. Drumlane Priory, 3 m. from
Belturbet, is now little more than a large barn used as a church, but
of considerable antiquity, being founded as early as the 6th century;
though it is probable that the oldest part now remaining is the round
tower which stands close to one corner of the sacred edifice. It was
dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and long of great sanctity as a place of
sepulture; but perhaps more remarkable in its being the birth-place of
St. Maidoc, a celebrated legendary personage, respecting whose parents
these holy legends are wisely silent.
CAVAN, 54 m. N.W. from Dublin.--Sir Rich. C. Hoare describes it
as situated in a vale near a small river, and making but a poor
appearance as a county town. See the Court-house and Barracks.
Ballyhedy Bridge, about 3 m. distant, crosses the Erne, in a pleasing
country surrounded by beautiful mansions and highly improved demesnes.
Near it see Farnham, the mansion of Earl Farnham, which Wakefield
considers as one of the finest and best kept demesnes in the island.
It affords abundance of views intermixed with some lake scenery;
and the cottage at Killishandra not far distant, together with one
called Lady Farnham's, an elegant retreat on the border of a small
lake, are well worth seeing. At the latter in particular, the scenery
is exceedingly romantic, the sides of the hills being covered with
waving trees approaching close to the level of the water. Notice
the pleasing views on the river Croghan; also the neat Ch. with the
ruins of an old Castle on the western bank: also the richly wooded
demesne of Castle Sanderson, with the spacious lake and grounds
of Cloverhill, and the new mansion of Castle Hamilton. Visit the
mountain of Bruce Hill. Kilmore, 2 m. S.W., is remarkable for the
smallest Cathedral in the empire, being nothing but the parish
church: near it is Lough Outer, where stand the ruins of an ancient
Castle on a small island, remarkable as the prison of the good Bishop
Bedell, during the rebellion of 1641. Sir C. Coote observes (in his
Survey of the County), that the many beautiful islands encircled by
this charming lake are crowned with the finest timber, which their
undulating surface presents to view in a variety of shades; and their
deep recesses and romantic scenery strongly picture to the mind the
aptitude of these sequestered islands for the superstitious rites
which formerly were celebrated there.
COOTEHILL, about 9 m. N.E. of Cavan,--is a smart well-built town,
and shows the advantages resulting from the introduction of the linen
manufacture. It contains nothing very remarkable; but is a good
station for several objects in its vicinity. Baillieborough is 9 m.
S.E., close to which is a pleasant lough; also a chalybeate spring.
The view from the Ch. is good; and on the summit of a hill, between
it and King's Court, is a pool long celebrated for its antiscorbutic
qualities, the patients bathing in it and rubbing their bodies with
the mud. It well deserves the notice of the geologist and the medical
tourist. Bellamont Forest, the family seat of the Bellamonts, uniting
with Dawson's Grove, forms a tract of romantic scenery that must not
be neglected by the picturesque traveller. The views from it are very
fine; and Bruce Hill is a most striking feature in the scenery. King's
Court is a modern creation, rising fast into a thriving town, clearly
exemplifying what may be done by a patriotic landlord. In its vicinity
are several deep glens and valleys, within which flow rapid streams
affording many romantic and interesting scenes. See ruins of Castle at
Muff. Shircock, about 7 m. E., has some lakes in its neighbourhood.
About 2 m. S. visit a narrow glen, in which the mineralogist will find
much amusement. Specimens of coal and other fossils.
DALYS BRIDGE, about 12 m. S.E. from Cavan,--is a neat village, with
several pleasing objects in its vicinity. Shaalan Lake, or Lough
Shecklin, deserves a visit, being 7 m. long and 4 broad in some
places; studded on the north side with gentlemen's cottages used as
sporting-boxes, and extremely well planted: whilst on its southern
verge, amidst lofty hills and fertile cornfields, may be seen the
ruins of the ancient Castle of Ross, with the high hill or Ben of
Fore. On an island are the ruins of an Abbey.
SWADLINBAR, a neat village about 18 m. N.W. from Cavan,--has long
been celebrated for its Spa, containing sulphur, earth, sea salt, and
fossil alkali, being alterative and diaphoretic. Near it are the ruins
of a Ch.; and a little further, but in Fermanagh, is the splendid
mansion of Florence Court, a seat of the E. of Enniskillin. See and
examine Quilca mountain, with its iron mines, and a spring of good
water on its summit: its general appearance is very grand, overhanging
the valley in towering magnificence. The tourist will here be amused
with many legendary tales of feudal times, of sprites and faëry. Its
summit was the ancient place of investiture for the MacGwyres, once
the petty kings of this district.
VIRGINIA, 12 m. S.E. of Cavan,--is a small village, and in the
immediate vicinity of Lough Ramor, of great extent, studded with
islands once clothed with foliage but now denuded, yet still
possessing the ruins of several old Castles.
MINERALS.
Lead and copper mines in the town land of Mayo: also coal, various
ochres, manganese, spar, a species of jasper, iron, and some limestone.
In Quilca mountain is a very rich iron mine; and in Ortnacullagh
mountain, near Ballyconnel, lead and silver ores, pure sulphur,
fullers' earth, white and red transparent spars, and slate quarries,
with some indications of coal. There are mineral waters also at
Derrylester; sulphureous at Derrindaff; alkaline at Owen Bruin; and
also at Carrickmore. At Cootehill are rich veins of copper ore and
pyrites.
BOTANY.
_Cicuta virosa_, Long-leaved Water Hemlock:--in watery places.
_Myrica Gale_, Gale, Sweet Willow, or Dutch Myrtle:--near rivers.
_Spergula arvensis_, Small Spurrey:--in sandy places.
CLARE.