Swords is here represented. Vide _Swords, Co. Dublin._
3.--Sculptured Cross at Monasterboice, 18 feet high, of which Character
there are several in Ireland--Vide _Drogheda, Co. of Louth._
4.--Chapel, Round Tower, and Cathedral, at Cashel--distant view.
The Chapel is considered one of the most curious in the kingdom.
The situation and antiquity of this place, as well as its picturesque
beauty, constitute it a place of much interest.
Vide _Cashel, Co. of Tipperary._
5.--Hook Tower, founded upon a rock, surrounded by precipices on
one side and shelving rocks on the other; the walls are of amazing
thickness, with stairs to the top. This is similar to Reginald's
Tower, Waterford, and other Danish Round Towers, or Forts,
dispersed over the kingdom. Vide _Fethard, Co. of Wexford._
6.--Giant's Causeway. Vide _Co. of Antrim._
7.--Mountains as they appear in the distance from Dunlow Castle,
Lake of Killarney. Vide _Killarney, Co. of Kerry._
The Vignette.
Map of Ireland _To face Antrim._
View from Warren's Point, near Narrow Water, Newry.
_To face Newry, Co. of Down._
View of Dublin from the Circular Road in the environs, with Richmond
or Sarah Bridge in the foreground
_To face the City of Dublin, on the 2d page of Co. Dublin._
Map and Plan of the Lakes of Killarney, and surrounding objects
_To face Killarney, Co. of Kerry._
View of the Lake and Mountain at Killarney from Lord Kenmare's
seat _To face 4th Page of Co. of Kerry._
View of Eagles Nest, and site of wonderful Echo--Lake of Killarney
_To face 6th Page of Co. of Kerry._
Carlingford Harbour and Castle--a brisk gale
_To face Carlingford, Co. of Louth._
Glendaloch, or Valley of Seven Churches.
_To face Glendaloch, Co. of Wicklow._
[Illustration: _Engraved for the Scientific Tourist._
IRELAND.
_London. Published by J. Booth, Duke Street, Portland Place, 1818._]
ANTRIM.
42 m. from N. to S. 24 from E. to W. containing 430,000 Irish acres;
bounded by the sea on the N. and E., by Down on the S. by Lough
Neagh and Derry on the W. It contains much diversified scenery; is
mountainous on the northern, and eastern coasts, but extends into
fertile plains in the interior. Its great extent of sea coast affords
every variety in science and the picturesque; mountains wild, covered
with heath and bog, or frowning in abrupt and rugged cliffs; towards
Lough Neagh all the mild beauties of cultivation: the vale of the
Lagan, between Belfast and Lisburn, cannot be surpassed for beauty,
cultivation, elegant villas, bleach-greens, and comfortable cottages,
with all the varieties of hill, dale, wood, and water, by any tract of
equal extent in the empire. Its ancient inhabitants were the _Darni_,
succeeded by the _Dalriadi_, afterwards by the _Ostmen_, and finally
by English and Scottish settlers. Lofty hills afford great amusement
to the botanist and geologist, particularly the range near Belfast,
amongst which Devis is 1400 ft. high; the Cave Hill 1140; Carmony 790;
and the Knockagh 903. These and others consist principally of a compact
body of limestone rock, over which, extending along the whole coast as
far as the Giant's Causeway, a diffusion of vitrifiable stone has been
superinduced in a state of softness, now forming a hard basalt, resting
generally on a base of variegated sandstone dipping to the W.
ANTRIM, 16 m. from Belfast, 84 m. from Dublin.--On the banks of the
Six-mile Water, near its confluence with Lough Neagh, see the Castle,
a seat of the Massarene family. 2 m. W. ruins of Shane's Castle;
near it, the field where a furious battle was fought in the late
rebellion, in which Lord O'Neil fell by the hand of ingratitude;
round tower. This ancient Castle has lately become a mass of ruins,
in consequence of a most destructive fire; yet it is still worth
visiting, being beautifully seated on the banks of Lough Neagh, facing
the S.W. the waters of which formerly washed its walls, but were
some years ago fenced off by an embankment, on which was erected a
handsome green-house. Nothing can be more majestic than the view from
the Castle of the vast expanse of water, and the neighbouring banks
considerably enriched with trees and verdure, through which are many
charming walks and rides. The demesne and park are of great extent,
through which a fine stream runs, taking its rise from a small lake
10 m. distant. Near the small lake is an elegant cottage called Remon
Lodge, originally fitted up for retirement and shooting-parties,
shaded with large venerable trees, and altogether a delightful
sequestered spot.
BALLINDERRY, 14 m. S.W. of Belfast.--Neat village. Good station for
Lough Neagh; ruins of Portmore Castle. 3 m. N. in the Lough, Ram's
Island with a round tower.
BALLYCASTLE, 47 m. N. from Belfast.--Improving sea-port town, with
a Colliery. Ruins of the old Castle; Abbey; and Gobbin's Heir, 1 m.
S.E. See the Coal-pits and Kelp-works: also the ancient Coal-mine or
Gallery lately discovered, supposed to be Danish. Chalybeate Spa.
Danish Raths. Romantic scenery round the cliffs, with Raghery Island
6 m. N. in the distant horizon, presenting to the eye of taste, in
a fine evening, a singular prospect, with its chalky cliffs crowned
by a venerable covering of brown rock, broken into beautiful and
picturesque variety by the turbulent ocean. On the road to Portrush
a singular little fishing rock, always an object of interest to
tourists, called Carrick-a-Rede; connected to the main land by an
extraordinary flying bridge over an abrupt and romantic chasm 60
feet in breadth. See also the White Rocks about 1 m. E. from Port
Rush, well worth examining, with a beautiful calcareous façade
extending about 1/2 a m., capriciously hollowed into a vast number of
magnificent caves of various sizes. Also the cliffs of Craigmillar. 5
m. S. Ardmoy village, with neat Ch. and curious round tower: on the
road on the right, ruins of an old Castle. See Knocklede, recently a
volcano, and Kinfane Castle.
BALLYMENA, 8 m. N. of Antrim.--See Gilgorm Castle, and the Moravian
settlement at Grace-hill. Slemish mountain, an interesting object.
5 m. N. is Clough, a small neat village. See the Ch., plain but
handsome, with ruins of two Castles.
BALLYMONY, 23 m. N. from Antrim.--Thriving village by linen
manufacture. 4 m. N. village of Dervock, with the beautiful seats
of Belleisle and Cloverhill. 6 m. E. is Lough Guill. See Ch., and
Lissanoure Castle on the banks of the lake, a most romantic mansion
and grounds.
BELFAST, 84 m. N. from Dublin.--Flourishing commercial town at head of
Carrickfergus Bay. Elegant Ch. and Chapel-of-ease. House of Industry.
White and brown Linen-Halls. Academical Institution. Bridge of 21
arches over Lagan, with romantic prospect of the bay and surrounding
hills. Exchange and Assembly Rooms. Various charitable Institutions.
Philosophical and Musical Societies; the latter for revival of the
Harp. Quays and Docks. Glass-houses and Iron-founderies. 3 m. N. the
Cave-hill, with caves and romantic scenery, and a most extensive
prospect from its summit. Delightful ride towards Carrickfergus, with
numerous seats and villas; several Danish raths, and the ruins of
White Abbey. 5 m. S.E. of Belfast, near Ballydrain, is the Giant's
Ring, an extensive circular earthen mound 2256 feet in circumference,
with a Druidical Cromlech in the centre. Near it Collin and Devis
mountains, with ancient caves called the "Picts," and fine view of
Lough Neagh: across the Lagan 3 m. is the elegant seat of Belvoir.
BENGORE HEAD,--the most northern extremity of the island, and an
object in the tour to Giant's Causeway, which it much resembles.
BUSH MILLS, 8 m. N.E. from Coleraine.--The nearest accommodation for
the Giant's Causeway. 3 m. N.E. Ruins of Dunluce Castle on a romantic
cliff. 3-1/2 m. N.W. the seat of ancient Irish chieftains, and
surrounded by the scenery of Ossian's first poem. Take a boat for view
of the coast.
CARRICKFERGUS, 8 m. N.E. of Belfast, the county and assize
town.--Ancient Castle built by Hugh Lacy, Earl of Ulster, in 1178.
Ch. with monuments of the Donnegall family. New Court-house and Gaol.
Some remains of an ancient monastery: ancient walls and pier where K.
William landed. Romantic scenery towards the N.E. and Island Magee,
including Castle Dobbs, and Kilroot where Thurot landed. 3 m. N.W.
ruins of Abbey at Monks Town, where tradition points out the grave of
King Fergus.
CUSHENDUN, 10 m. from Glenarm.--A small village in a romantic bay;
grotesque caves, and a caverned rock on which Red Castle stands: it
presents several specimens of whyn dykes to the geologist, containing
veins of calcareous spar mixed with coarse-grained basaltes. Between
it and Glenarm, about half way, rises the sharp promontory of Garron
Point, exhibiting a beautifully diversified trapose outline, and
projecting far into the sea, on a limestone base wrought into caverns
by the restless surge. A little N. of the point is the romantic vale
of Glenariff, containing red sandstone, porphyry intermixed with
veins of jasper, and a curious breccia or pudding-stone; but, to the
sentimental traveller it is even more interesting; for here he may
conceive himself in the genuine country of Ossian, as nearly every
romantic object in the vicinity bears a name connected with that hero.
DUNLUCE CASTLE, 5 m. W. of Bushmills.--The most striking ruin on the
coast; on an isolated, abrupt rock, perforated by the waves which
have formed under it a very spacious cavern. The approach to it is
along a narrow wall; but it well repays the risk; its dark basaltic
walls marked with the mellow tints of time, in some places forming
a perpendicular line with the rock on which it stands, whilst its
commanding situation, its numerous gables and turrets, (resembling
the ruins of a village destroyed by fire,) excite a high idea of its
former magnificence, and a feeling of regret for its lost splendour.
It was built probably by De Courcey, afterwards enlarged by native
chieftains, and finally by the Macdonnels in the time of Elizabeth.
Though in total ruin, a particular chamber is said to be haunted, and
to be the favourite abode of Mave Roe, a Banshee or such fictitious
personage, who sweeps it every night; but, as Dr. Drummond observes,
the sweeping winds that rush through that and the other desolate
apartments, will sufficiently account for the cleanness of the room
without the aid of supernatural agency.
FAIRHEAD or BENMORE, 4 m. N.E. of Ballycastle.--Is a most interesting
object, towering magnificently with its massive columns of basaltes,
forming a line of coast the most fantastically beautiful that
imagination can conceive. It is strongly characterized by the savage
wildness of its cliffs, at whose foot the ocean rages with uncommon
fury. Scarce a single mark of vegetation has yet crept over the hard
rock to diversify its colour, but one uniform grayness pervades its
scenery, contrasting exquisitely with Bengore, about 9 m. distant to
the W. The tourist must visit the Fhirleath or Gray Man's Path, a deep
chasm dividing the solitary promontory in twain, with its solid walls
of rude and threatening columns upwards of 200 feet in perpendicular
abruptness.
GIANT'S CAUSEWAY, 8 m. W. from Ballycastle, and about 3 m. N. of
Bushmills (the general station for tourists).--Is an object not to be
described in small limits, being a most singular geological curiosity
and one of Nature's most stupendous productions. Dr. Drummond briefly
states it to consist of three moles, composed of basaltic columns
projecting into the sea from the middle of the semicircular bay of
Port Noffer; the longest of which, called the Grand Causeway, extends
in a sloping direction from the base of the cliff about 300 feet, when
it is lost in the ocean. The pillars of which the Causeway consists
have been estimated at 30000; but that is too small a calculation.
These are of different dimensions; 15 to 36 feet in height, and from
15 to 26 inches in diameter, chiefly pentagonal or hexagonal; each
consists of joints or pieces concave and convex alternately at the
ends. The pillars are a species of basaltes and kind of close grit,
vitrifiable, of a dusky hue, contrasting finally with the surrounding
verdant scenery, and continued, with interruptions, two miles along
the precipitous shore. On the eastern side the Giant's Loom, a
colonnade of 36 feet in height; and on the opposite cliff may be seen
the Organ, so called from the resemblance to that instrument in the
group of columns: also the Giant's Well, Chair, and Theatre, with
the King and Parliament. Other objects of curiosity are,--the large
rounded masses of irregularly prismatic basalt between the causeways,
and the distinct globular concretions at Port Coon, a little to the
westward: the curious whyn dyke at the head of the grand causeway:
the generally romantic scenery of Port Noffer: then the cave of Port
Coon, celebrated for its fine echo, continually resounding to the dash
of the waves: the Cave of Dunkerry between Port Coon and the Bushfoot
Strand, accessible only from the ocean, between two mural ridges
of jet-black rock, with its lofty dome and sides overspread with a
covering of green _confervæ_, suggesting the idea that it might have
been scooped out of an emerald; a crimson zone of marine plants, five
or six feet in breadth, surrounds and adorns it; and its extent has
never yet been ascertained, its sides contracting into a narrow cleft
where no boat can penetrate, but where the waves are heard rolling to
a considerable distance.
GLENARM, 8 m. N. of Larne.--Castle of the Countess of Antrim, still
venerable and magnificent, and on the site of an ancient Abbey: from
the front is seen the Glen or Great Park 13 m. in circuit; extremely
romantic and beautiful; consisting of wood and broken rock, with
several waterfalls and salmon-leaps formed by a large serpentine river
winding through the grounds, whilst its banks are adorned with various
evergreens; myrtles, and the _arbutus_ or strawberry-tree almost
continually in blossom. From the park are fine views of the sea; a
distant prospect of the Abbey in ruins, and the scenery considerably
enriched by the singular appearance of the adjacent mountains, which
are cultivated in corn to their very summits. In its vicinity are many
rude antiquities, supposed to be of Danish origin.
See the GLENS on the borders of Red Bay, with the ruins of Red Castle,
7 m. N. of Glenarm. The scenery around is very romantic, the village
being secluded in a glen, where the limestone shores finely contrast
with the azure ocean. To the northward is the site of Dunmall, a
fortress where, tradition says, all the rent of Ireland was once paid;
but its only memorials are a mound and fosse with the fragments of
a wall. Beyond Garron Point see the curious grotesque rock called
Clough-i-stookin, of chalky whiteness, bearing a striking resemblance
to a female of gigantic stature: near it the ruins of a Castle on a
caverned cliff, the echoes in which are curious: also Torr Point.
On the beach near Glynn the _Anomia Gryphus_ and the _Vertebræ
pentacrinites_ are found in abundance in a blue lime. To the N. of it
stand the lofty and precipitous cliffs of Agnew's Hill, said to be the
loftiest hill in the county. The vicinity of this romantic spot has
been well described by Mr. Wakefield, who, on descending the hill to
Cushendall, beholding on the one hand a cultivated mountain, and on
the other a vale of rich land in a high state of tillage, declares
that upon the whole a more extended and more delightful prospect of
hill and dale intermixed in charming variety, is not often to be
seen. He adds, that from Cushendall to Glenarm, passing Red Bay and
coasting along the ocean, the whole way, the road exhibits the most
romantic and beautiful scenery. On the one hand magnificent and widely
extended views of the ocean, which on this coast rolls its swelling
waves towards the shore with a peculiar and dangerous rapidity; and
on the other, rocky mountains of considerable height, whose hanging
cliffs, as the road extends partly up their sides, seem to threaten
the traveller with destruction; and which in some places are thickly
clothed with woods, through the openings between which the eye is
sometimes surprised with the sight of a village as the road winds
round the spacious bays and jutting promontories.
LOUGH NEAGH is the largest lake of fresh water in Europe, with the
exception of Ladoga, Onega, and Geneva, being 20 m. by 12; and
the country round it being level, the furthest shores cannot be
distinguished from any part of its circumference; so that it resembles
an ocean, particularly in stormy weather, when the waves break
suddenly and are dangerous for boats. See Ram Island with its Round
Tower: inquire for Gems, Crystals, and Petrifactions. The ride from
Belfast, of about 16 m. is delightful; and nothing can be finer than
the view bursting on the tourist from the top of Mount Devis, whether
he contemplates Lough Neagh, or turns round to admire the extensive
prospect over the County Down and Irish Channel, towards the Isle of
Man, and even the distant mountains of Wales. Though this extensive
inland sea receives no less than eight rivers, yet the only outlet to
the whole collected mass of water is on the N.W. extremity, at Toom,
whence passing through a small lake, Lough Beg, it forms the river
Bann, which runs into the sea at Coleraine. The great disproportion
between the outlet and the influx has given rise to a conjecture
of subterraneous passages; but not the smallest indication of such
a phenomenon has yet been discovered,--so that the great means of
reduction must be by exhalation: to this it may be added, that in the
dry season the efflux is so trifling as to be waded at Toom, where it
is less than knee-deep; whilst on the other hand, in the wet season,
most of the rivers being mountainous, the influx is so sudden and so
greatly extensive, that 10,000 acres are often covered, which were
dry in summer. The geologist may also notice the well-authenticated
fact that, the Lough often interrupts its own course to the sea, by
the quantities of sand and gravel which it deposits in the channel:
all those impediments are frequently accelerated, though sometimes
removed, by the casual direction and force of the winds: hence the
dilatation and contraction have not been as yet reduced to any role;
but the fact is certain that its strongest tendency is towards
expansion, its actual encroachments being marked and known; for in one
place it has encompassed one Ch., (Ballyscullen) drowned great part of
the parish, and still seems gaining on the land. It must be remembered
that this Lough is perhaps the shallowest piece of water in the world
of such an extent, being no where deeper than 11 fathoms. The trade
carried on upon the Lough has of late years received considerable
additions from three navigable canals; one of which leads to Newry,
where a river runs into the sea at Carlingford; the second, through
Lisburn, gains the sea at Belfast; and the third takes a direction
westerly, for inland purposes. In stormy weather the waves break so
short and dash with such violence against the shoals at the foot of
Shane's Castle, that the spray is said often to have dashed into the
highest windows. In consequence of this, shipwrecks of the craft are
not unfrequent.
PLEASKIN.--A Cape a little to the E. of Giant's Causeway; the most
striking of all the semicircular precipices on this range of coast,
in the opinion of Dr. Drummond and the ingenious but unfortunate Dr.
Hamilton. In the sixteen different strata of which it is composed,
beauty and sublimity are wonderfully blended and harmonised. Over
a dark and rugged base fringed with incessant foam it lifts its
sides adorned with various tints of green gray lichen, and vermilion
rock, with a rapid declivity to about half its elevation, and thence
becomes perpendicular. On a stratum of red ochre at the elevation of
200 feet, stands a magnificent gallery of basaltic columns, 44 feet
in height, with others equally romantic; like a theatre of Nature
harmoniously arranged, rock upon rock, gallery upon gallery, so
magnificent, so solitary, and facing the wide Atlantic, as if formed
for the temple of "spirits from the vasty deep!"
LARNE, 8 m. N. from Carrickfergus,--worth notice for the fine scenery
round its harbour and vicinity. Redhall; Olderfleet, and various
ancient Castles in ruins; several Cromlechs on the E. side of Brown's
Bay, where is also the Giant's Cradle, a large stone so nicely
balanced that a small force will put it in motion, though the utmost
strength of many men cannot overturn it. See Ballygelly Promontory 3
m. with masses of prismatic basalt, where the pillars first commence:
to the W. ruins of Cairn Castle on an insulated rock; and the Salagh
Braes.
LISBURNE, 7 m. S.S.W. from Belfast.--Handsome, populous, and
extensive, on the Lagan. Handsome Ch.; large Market-house; several
neat Sectarian Chapels. Linen, diaper, and damask manufactories. 2 m.
N.E. Lambeg with curious damask-works, and numerous bleach-greens.
Near Lambeg numerous villas; Drum House and Ch.; Ballydrain, with lake
and grounds; and the Giant's Ring, with round tower.
RANDALSTOWN, 88 m. from Dublin, 3 m. N.W. from Antrim.--A thriving
town on the river Main. See Market-house and Assembly-rooms; also
the scenery of Lough Neagh 2 m. distant. 3-1/2 m. N. is Kells, a
pleasant village, with ruins of an ancient Ch.; 3 m. E. of which, the
dilapidated village, once the city of Connor and still an episcopal
see united to Down. See ruins of the Cathedral.
RATHLIN, or RAGHERY, a small island N. of Ballycastle.--See Doon
Point; also the Tumulus on a plain in the centre, with stone coffins.
The ruins of Bruce's Castle. Here also are seen optical aërial
illusions, like the _fata morgana_ in the Straits of Messina.
TEMPLE PATRICK, 10 m. N.W. from Belfast.--Road to Antrim, on which
route the tourist may enjoy some fine mountain scenery, including the
Bay of Carrickfergus, backed by the majestic mountains of Mourne.
Close to the village see Castle Upton, the castellated mansion of
Lord Templetown, with handsome park and mausoleum. 4 m. S.E. is the
rough fort, an ancient memorial of uncertain origin, but partly
Danish, perhaps partly Druidical; with wild scenery in its vicinity;
and on the road to Belfast is a complete chain of Danish raths.
MINERALS.
Basaltes:--along the coast from Belfast to Ballycastle.
Granite and porphyry:--in the glen between Devis and Collon mountains
near Belfast.
Limestone:--very frequent throughout the county.
Coal:--near Ballycastle; containing pyrites.
Sandstone, and aluminous layers:--near Ballycastle; containing evident
traces of zoophytes and other organic bodies.
Crystals:--very fine at Knocklaide mountain.
Calcedony variegated with marine plants:--frequent on the rocky shores.
Stalactites and tufa:--near Kinfane: also calcareous creeping stones
near the Glynns.
BOTANY.
_Alopecurus pratensis_:--in the levels near Lough Neagh.
_Dactylis glomerata_, Cock'sfoot Grass:--meadows near Lisburn.
_Festuca fluitans_, Float Fescue:--bogs and wet grounds in the S. and
W. parts of the county.
_Holcus lanatus_, White Grass:--springs up in turf bogs.
_Phleum pratense_, Timothy Grass:--Castle Dobbs and Island Magee.
_Plantugo_, Narrow-leaved Plantain:--to be met with in every field or
meadow.
_Poa aquatica_:--in the wettest bogs, where only it will grow.
_Rhinanthus_, Yellow Rattle:--on dry soils.
ARMAGH