took some coffee, eggs, and toast, and then set off, my companion on
a tall white horse and I on a little native pony, both of us dressed
entirely in white. I had with me a bearer, a kitmajar, and a syce.
Mr. L. had also a bearer, a cooly, and a syce, with several coolies
carrying provisions. The syces were only to accompany us as far as
the river, and then take the horses back; the others carried our
guns, pistols, powder, hunting knives, which are very necessary both
to kill everything that is wounded, and also to defend ourselves if
thrown down by an elk, tiger, &c. It was necessary that we should
cross the river about ten miles from my house, so off we trotted
followed by our train. Everything was perfectly still, the moon
just setting, and a cold damp fog hanging over the whole island.
For the first half-mile we got along very well. We had then to turn
into the bed of the river, now dwindled to a narrow stream. Our
course lay over a deep bed of loose sand something like that at
Weston-super-Mare, only much worse, our horses' feet sinking at every
step five or six inches; the poor animals could not move quicker
than a trot. As the moon set, and the fog closed around us, the scene
became one of utter desolation: the narrow pathway, if you can call
it a pathway, winding so as to avoid the deeper sands and quicksands,
did not permit us riding two abreast. Far ahead, magnified by the
mist, I could just see the tall figure of Mr. L. and his white steed;
behind I could hear a low chattering, and now and then one of the
black servants would emerge from the fog and then vanish again as
suddenly as he had appeared. From time to time arose a shrill cry
from some one who had wandered from the path, answered as shrilly by
the other men. As the fog thickened everything disappeared. The path
was barely discernible, and I almost wished myself at home. However I
trusted to the sagacity of my sure-footed little pony, and he carried
me safely over the sand-hills and through the hollows for about
three-quarters of an hour, when I heard a shout in front, announcing
that Mr. L. had reached the water. I soon came up with him. We
waited till our servants joined us, then dismounted, gave our horses
to the syces with orders to be at the same place at six o'clock on
Thursday evening, and embarked in a large boat, which, to render it
water-tight, or rather to keep it afloat, was filled up to the seat
with bushes and brambles trodden into a compact mass.
The boatmen told us that two nights before, as three carts were going
along the path to Chogga, a tiger had sprung out and carried off the
man in the centre cart, and that a few days earlier two men had been
carried away from the village itself. The other side of the river is
a steep bank without sand, and by the time we reached it the day was
just breaking, of which, to tell the truth, I was by no means sorry.
[Sidenote: SPORTING.]
On the bank we found the coolies whom we had sent forward the evening
before, and who had waited there for us, being afraid to proceed
through the jungle until they had the protection of the sahibs. There
we took our guns, &c., into our own hands, girded on our belts, in
which were thrust our long hunting knives or daggers and our pistols,
letting our servants carry our powder-flasks, shot-belts, &c. This is
done in order to be able to load with greater rapidity, the servant
holding the shot, wad, cap, &c., in readiness. He also carries a
heavy ramrod with a round knob at the top, as the drawing the ramrod
from the gun, returning it, and hammering away with it at the powder,
which you must do on account of its lightness, might frequently cause
delay that might be fatal. Most people, for the sake of safety, use
double-barrelled guns; mine was, however, only single, but the barrel
was long enough for two.
At last off we started along the regular path to Chogga. The change
was most extraordinary; the fog had already cleared away; we were
walking along a narrow winding path cut through the jungle. On each
side of us extended as far as the eye could reach a vast plain
covered with laurels and shrubs of a bright green, interspersed here
and there with large flowers of a brilliant crimson or scarlet, and
more rarely with trees of a stunted growth, on which numbers of
little tiny doves were cooing their greeting to the sun. The bushes,
which we call low jungle, grow to four or five feet in height, and
so thickly that it is impossible to pass through them, except where
a path has been cut, or where a natural glade or opening occurs.
We walked on looking out anxiously for some opening, as we knew we
should find nothing worth firing at in the open plain. Suddenly,
on turning an angle in the path, we saw at the distance of about a
quarter of a mile on the right a clear space with a few large trees
in it. Amid the branches sat fifteen or twenty pea-fowl, and on the
open glade were as many more feeding. Shortly afterwards we came to a
smaller one, which enabled us to separate, so that we might approach
the pea-fowl in different directions; however we could not get within
shot, which we much regretted.
But I own I was not quite so eager in pushing through the jungle as
I should have been the next day; it was quite novel to me, and I
could not help thinking every now and then of the dreaded cobra or
the scarcely less dreaded tiger. Indeed, of the last I had a fearful
reminder before I rejoined Mr. L.
In a small space of clear ground I came suddenly upon the skeleton
of a man, evidently lately killed, for much of the flesh was still
adhering to the bones. Probably it was the poor driver of whom we
had heard. I had quite lost sight of Mr. L., but presently heard
him shout from some distance behind me. I made my way towards him,
and soon reached a small paddy-field (rice-field). Here was a small
bull of a very dark colour, who did not seem at all pleased with our
intrusion: he looked at us for a minute, and then came galloping
towards us, shaking his head and tail in his anger. My two servants
called out that it was a wild cow, and crouched down behind me.
I felt a little nervous, but faced the animal, and drew a pistol
from my belt; however, as he came near, I saw a small piece of
cord fastened to one of his horns, and therefore knew it was not
an "unner" or wild cow. I desired the men to shout, and myself did
the same, running towards the animal and waving my hat. He stopped
a moment hesitating, and then, as I rushed forward, he threw up his
tail in the air and scampered off, very much to my relief.
Mr. L. now came up, and we proceeded on our road. Presently one of
the men who was a little in advance stopped and pointed to a tree at
a little distance. Mr. L. primed his gun and fired, and down dropped
a fine hen. Wild hens abound in the jungles, and are excellent
eating, possessing a slight flavour of game.
Soon after we came to a spot of ground where we beheld a number
of quails. I fired and killed two. Again we went on, but met with
no further adventure until we came to Chogga. The last mile and
a half of our journey lay through paddy-fields with the stubble
still on them. The heat was intense, and by the time we reached our
destination I was thoroughly tired.
Chogga is a small native village surrounded by jungle, standing
about seven or eight miles from the river. It does not belong to the
English, but is in the territory of one of our tributary rajahs. Mr.
L. has a bungalow there, if such it can be called, consisting as it
does of a single room about sixteen feet square, built of mud, and
thatched with rice-straw. He has made many converts here, and is
about to erect a Christian village about his own bungalow, which is
half a mile from Chogga itself, and well situated on a small spot of
rising ground. The appearance and manner of these wild, naked, yet
Christian savages, was to me deeply interesting.
As soon as we arrived, a number of natives, both men and women,
crowded about us. Many of them were Christians, though in dress they
adhered to their old habits. Mr. L. at once took off everything but
his trowsers, and after some hesitation I did the same. After this we
had breakfast and then lay down on our camp beds and rested for two
or three hours. About one I felt hungry, so went out and shot a few
doves, which abound on every tree.
[Sidenote: SPORTING.]
About half-past three we collected as many men as possible and went
out to beat the jungle, through which Mr. L. and myself worked our
way until we came to a small open space. There one of us posted
himself; the other went on until he found another similar spot, where
he also stationed himself. As soon as the shikarree who was with
us saw where we were ready, he stole out of the jungle and placed
the twenty-five men in a large semicircle, our positions being the
centre, and the radius about half a mile. As soon as they were all
stationed, at a signal they began to roar and groan and make the
most frightful noises, beating the bushes with their long bamboos,
and pushing through the jungle towards the open space where we were
placed. This was in a high jungle, and really the scene on such an
occasion is most exciting. You stand on a small space of fifteen or
twenty yards in diameter, bounded on every side by lofty trees and
thick underwood, your gun in your hand, your man behind you holding
the next charge in readiness. In every quarter the shrieks and yells
of the beaters are heard; presently there is a whirr in the air, and
a peacock flies through the open space above your head. Bang goes the
gun, off runs one of the men to pick up the bird; load again! quick!
hark! What a rush in the bushes! There it comes! An elk or stag, shot
but not killed; and a man rushes out and cuts the animal's throat.
An alarm of "Tiger!" was now given, but it proved false, as nothing
but a wild cat darted over the glade. Shouts again rend the air, and
a magnificent red peacock, with a deep green tail and neck of gold,
flies over our heads, his long tail streaming behind him, and the
brown hen at his side. The opening above our heads was small, and an
immediate fire was necessary: I fired and missed him. The beaters
now approached nearer and nearer, shouting, and their dark forms
soon became visible gliding one by one out of the jungle. Nothing
more was to be found there; we accordingly moved on, and presently
were beckoned to by the shikarree. He pressed his finger to his lips
and whispered "Choop! choop!" and, pointing down a narrow opening in
the jungle, showed us a large leopard, beautifully spotted, lying
apparently asleep. While loading our guns the animal awoke, and was
stealing off just as we fired and hit him, though he contrived to
crawl off. The next day, however, we found the body, as the arrow
was poisoned. The skin is valuable. The shikarree, who proudly bore
off the body, would suffer no one to assist him; but that same man
would not carry home the merest trifle from the bazaar, but must be
followed by a coolie.
Captain W. soon met us, and we returned home to dinner, after which
we sallied out by moonlight to seek some deer, but were unsuccessful.
[Sidenote: CONVERTS AND "INQUIRERS."]
The next morning, rising at four, after a cup of coffee we sallied
into the jungle again, but obtained nothing but a few fowls. Captain
W. now left us on his return home, and after breakfast a number of
native Christians assembled, as this was the morning appointed for
talking to them. They all squatted down on the floor, the men on one
side and the women on the other. Mr. L., who is thoroughly conversant
with the Oorial language, now entered into conversation with them,
asking them questions and hearing all they had to say. They appear
to have a very good knowledge of true religion, and to be very
earnest and sincere. It was most interesting to see them all sitting
so quietly with their eyes fixed on Mr. L.'s face, never attempting
to interrupt either him or one another, but speaking one at a time
in a low reverent tone of voice. When asked a question they would
pause a moment or two in deep thought before they answered. After
a little time one or two inquirers came in, that is, men who are
not yet converted, but are inquiring about Christianity, or arguing
concerning it and comparing it with their own religion. These sat
down and behaved themselves in the same decorous manner as the actual
Christians. Mr. L. very judiciously encouraged the converts to argue
with the inquirers, and it was most pleasing to observe the perfect
mildness and the restrained gestures of both parties when talking
on so holy a subject, every eye fixed upon the two disputants, and
when a pause occurred some other convert gently putting in a word in
support of the holy truth.
_Inquirer._ "You say God gave you the Bible, I say God gave us the
Shasters. The religion that is good for the white man is not good for
the black. God is good, and has given us each a religion proper to
ourselves. I say your religion is good and comes from God; why will
you not say the same of our Shasters?"
_Convert._ "God gave white men the Bible because he is very good, and
he told them to go and teach it to every one, because he wishes every
one to be good and happy, and to go to the happy country of heaven
when they die; but the Shasters do not come from God."
_I._ "How do you know that?"
_C._ "Listen, brother. Brummah (God) is good, is he not?"
_I._ "Yes."
_C._ "Should not you like to go to Brummah?"
_I._ "Yes."
_C._ "Do not the Shasters of your religion teach you so?"
_I._ "Ha! you are very sly. No; but our religion is good for us now.
By and bye Vishnoo will come again, and then he will perhaps give us
a Bible."
_C._ "Why not take the Christian Bible and Christian Brummah now?"
_I._ "Then I should lose my caste, my wife will leave me, my children
will go away, my brother will not smoke with me, my hut will be
empty, and the Brahmins will curse me."
_C._ "If the Brahmins curse you, God is stronger than they are, and
he will bless you; if your wife and children run away, Jesus will
make you happy in heaven; if your brother will not smoke with you,
the great God will give you his peace."
_I._ "Well, I will see. Lend me the book; I will read it and show it
to the Brahmins. How soon shall you be here again, sahib?"
_Mr. L._ "In about ten days."
_I._ "Good: I will see you again."
This is a mere epitome of the conversation, but may furnish some idea
of the mode of argument pursued. Whenever the convert brought forward
a good argument, or came to a convincing point, it was curious to
see the countenance of the Christians. They had been watching their
champion with the greatest interest, looking more like dark statues
than human beings, so perfectly still did they sit, except when a
mother pressed her infant to her bosom to keep it quiet. Suddenly, as
they saw the drift of what was said more clearly, their white eyes
would dance amid their dark skins, and one or two of them would smile
and utter gently the emphatic word "Ha!" (yes).
A nice-looking young woman brought her baby to show it. It was only
two months old, and had not yet been baptized. Poor woman! I won
her heart completely by taking it from her and kissing it. Mr. L.
seemed a little surprised at my doing so, but both the mother and
her husband were delighted. She asked me to name her child. Mr. L.
wished it to be a scriptural name. I accordingly gave it the first
that came into my head, which was "Benjamin." It was interesting to
watch the mother's face as I named the child, she had apparently
never heard the name before, and there was much amusement amongst
them, all trying to pronounce it; they could not quite manage it,
but, as the mother carried the little one out, several of the men
patted its cheek and smiled, and said very slowly Bend-za-min. There
were to have been four adults baptized on this day, but one of them
came in the morning and said that his wife declared she would not
live with a Christian, that she had taken her children and all his
fortune, consisting of one rupee and two pice, and had gone away to
her brother's house. Mr. L. advised the man to go and reason with
her, which he did, and we afterwards heard that she had returned with
him on condition that he would not become a Christian.
The people have literally given up father, mother, wife, children,
friends, and home as soon as they become followers of Jesus. They are
looked upon as utterly degraded; and the tribe to which they belong
has to pay a sum of money to the Brahmins before they can be freed
from the stain which attaches to them in consequence of the pollution.
Mr. L. preached in the afternoon, and in the evening the Christians
again met, when he addressed them a discourse in the midst of a
tremendous thunderstorm.
[Sidenote: RETURN TO CUTTACK.]
When we rose the next morning at four o'clock we found that the rain
had been so heavy during the night that we could get no fuel to make
a fire: our provisions, having been neglected, were all spoiled by
the rain, excepting a small piece of thick pie-crust; our beer we
had exhausted the evening before; so after a scanty meal we started
on our way home. We shot a peacock and fowl upon the road along with
three snipes, and arrived at Cuttack about half-past eight on Friday
morning.
[Sidenote: COMET.]
I have just witnessed a magnificent sight; during the last month
we have had such weather as the oldest inhabitant cannot recollect
ever to have seen before at this time of the year. It is generally
in February and March very hot and very dry. For the last month
we have had almost incessant rain, with violent thunderstorms.
The days are comparatively cool, and at night I am glad of two
blankets. Rumours of an approaching famine began to float abroad,
but at length the mystery was solved. About half-past six I thought
I observed a curiously shaped long cloud, and as the sun went down
and the twilight deepened it did not alter its appearance, but at
about a quarter to seven proved to be a magnificent comet. The
nucleus was plainly visible even with the naked eye, and equal in
brightness to a small star. The tail was at least 45° in length, and
inclined from W.S.W. to E.S.E. Had it been perpendicular it would
have reached from the horizon half way up over our heads, the whole
distance from the horizon to the zenith being 90°. The breadth of the
extremity of the tail was about 2-1/2°, and the posterior half was
divided longitudinally by a dark line. The colour was that of a pale
moonlight, but it would no doubt have appeared much more red if the
moon had not been shining brightly at the time. There has been no
comet equal to this in brilliancy and the length of the tail since
the year 1759. I have hardly any books to refer to, but my idea is,
that it is the same comet which appeared in 1264 and 1556, and was
expected back in 1848. If so, its period of revolution is nearly
300 years. Its light was intense, being almost equal to the moon in
brilliancy. The natives say it will burn the earth; they call it
"jherra tarn," or "burnt star."
The weather is most remarkable. We have incessant rain, with thunder
and lightning every evening, and the clouds are too heavy to allow us
to see the comet. The houses require fresh thatching every year. The
lightning we have here I have never seen equalled in England; each
flash spreads over one quarter of the visible heavens, whilst the
roaring, or rather the deafening rattle, of the thunder is incessant.
The comet re-appeared last night, though hardly so brilliant as it
was a week ago.
I was calling upon the judge of Cuttack the other day, and his wife
told me that a few nights before she went up stairs at twelve o'clock
to see her little girl, who had not been quite well. On the floor of
the room she saw what she thought was a piece of ribbon, and stooped
to pick it up, when a cobra raised its head and expanded its hood and
hissed at her in anger. She called the servants with their bamboos,
and they soon killed it, but it was a great mercy that she had not
touched it.
Cuttack, April 13, 1843.
The other evening the mhator came to ask me for the key to unlock
the fowl-house door, as one of the hens was loose. I told him to
bring a light, and then went across the compound. The padlock with
which the door is fastened passes through a chain and eye at the top
of the door. I raised my hand to unlock it, when the mhator, who had
the lantern, called out, "Sahib, sahib, samp!" (Sir, sir, a snake!)
I looked, and on the very chain which I was on the point of touching
was a snake. I immediately called the men to bring bamboos, and they
soon killed it. On examining it we found it to be one of that sort
whose bite is always fatal, so that the person bitten never lives
more than half an hour, and there would be no time for the doctor to
come. How thankful I should be to God for my escape! I suspect that
the snake was the cobra manilla, but am not sure. It was about two
feet and a half long, small head, back dark green or nearly black,
with all the way along it transverse yellow stripes.
[Sidenote: HINDU FESTIVAL.]
About three weeks ago was a poojah, or Hindu festival, of which
I forget the name. About nine o'clock in the evening of the
principal day four sepoys came to my house with the subadar major's
compliments, and he would be glad if I would do them the honour to go
and see the samam or show (the subadar major is the principal native
officer in a regiment). I had refused them once or twice before,
therefore this evening I sent my compliments and I would be there
in a few minutes. When I got to the lines or houses of the sepoys I
found a magnificent tent about two hundred feet long, into which I
was ushered with much ceremony.
The scene was most interesting. At the upper end there were a few
European officers, while down each side were ranged three or four
rows of dark sepoys seated on their hams, which is the favourite
position among the natives. The tent was lighted by a number of
flaming torches, which threw their red light upon the swarthy faces
of about seven or eight hundred gigantic up-country sepoys. The whole
centre of the tent was clear for the evolutions of the nautch-girls
(dancing girls): of these, who were generally young and tolerably
good-looking, there were several parties of four or five. All those
of one party held each other by the hand, and kept dancing backward
and forward with a sort of regular motion, and singing in a peculiar
cadence. The song was an invocation of blessing on those who happened
to be opposite them at the time, and every now and then they would
separate to point with their hands to those who were designated
in the verse. The light danced upon the spangles with which their
dresses were covered, whilst innumerable little bells jingled on
their arms and ankles.
When I entered the subadar major immediately came to me with a
long-necked brazen vessel, from which he sprinkled over my clothes
a scent extracted from the sandal-wood. He then poured some into
his hand and rubbed my face and whiskers with it. This they call
anointing. He then presented me with two packets of spices wrapped up
in sweet-scented leaves.
As soon as he retired a party of nautch-girls came up, and, after
singing a song in my praise and blessing me, suddenly separated and
each one threw over me a quantity of crimson powder. In a minute my
face and clothes were of a brilliant red; and wherever I had been
anointed the powder stuck like paint. Every one was served in the
same manner, and a pretty set we must have appeared: this is the
chief fun of the festival. During the three or four days that it
lasts almost every native that you meet has more or less of this red
powder (called akbeer) on his body or dress. Even my monkey, which
is a sacred animal with the Hindus, I found covered with it every
morning. I did not stay long at the tomasa, but was glad that I
had seen it: however, the cassock I had on was spoiled, not by the
powder, for that I managed to brush off, but by the anointing, which
has left in it so powerful a scent that it is not wearable.
[Sidenote: CHENA POOJAH.]
Last Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday was the Chena poojah, or swinging
festival. Upright poles are fixed in the earth, and at the top of
each is another pole which revolves upon the first. The religious
devotees are said to suspend themselves to one end of the revolving
pole by iron hooks stuck into their flesh, and are then whirled round
and round by a number of men. Many of these mistaken men are said to
die in consequence of the tortures they endure.
At this festival it is also reported that other devotees lie on
their stomachs whilst the priests press sharp knives into them until
they pin them to the ground, and that this does not always kill them;
but that when it does they consider they shall go to Brummah, their
God, and that the deity will be pleased with such suffering. I am
told they never utter a groan; but I would not go to see them, though
there are strong doubts whether it be not a deception.
[Sidenote: ELEPHANT-RIDING.]