the manufacture of ketchup. For this purpose, not only is the
mushroom, _Agaricus campestris_, and the horse mushroom, _Agaricus
arvensis_, available, but also _Agaricus rubescens_ is declared to be
excellent for the purpose, and a delicious, but pale, extract is to be
obtained from _Marasmius oreades_. Other species, as _Coprinus
comatus_, and _Coprinus atramentarius_, are also available, together
with _Fistulina hepatica_, and _Morchella esculenta_. In some
districts, when mushrooms are scarce, it is stated that almost any
species that will yield a dark juice is without scruple mixed with the
common mushroom, and it should seem without any bad consequence except
the deterioration of the ketchup.[V] There is an extensive manufacture
of ketchup conducted at Lubbenham, near Market Harborough, but the
great difficulty appears to be the prevention of decomposition.
Messrs. Perkins receive tons of mushrooms from every part of the
kingdom, and they find, even in the same species, an immense
difference in the quality and quantity of the produce. The price of
mushrooms varies greatly with the season, ranging between one penny
and sixpence per pound. Messrs. Perkins are very careful in their
selection, but little discrimination is used by country manufacturers
on a small scale, who use such doubtful species as _Agaricus
lacrymabundus_, with _Agaricus spadiceus_, and a host of allied
species, which they characterize as nonpareils and champignons. In the
eastern counties _Agaricus arvensis_ has the preference for ketchup.
The generic distinctions between the genuine Agarics and some of the
allied genera can hardly be appreciated by the non-botanical reader,
but we have nevertheless preferred grouping the edible species
together in a somewhat botanical order; and, pursuing this plan, the
next species will be those of _Coprinus_, in which the gills are
deliquescent after the plant has arrived at maturity. The maned
mushroom (_Coprinus comatus_, Fr.)[W] is the best of edible species in
this group. It is very common here by roadsides and other places, and
whilst still young and cylindrical, and the gills still whitish or
with a roseate tint, it is highly to be commended. Similar, but
perhaps somewhat inferior, is _Coprinus atramentarius_, Fr.,[X]
equally common about old stumps and on the naked soil. Both species
are also found and eaten in the United States.
In _Cortinarius_, the veil is composed of arachnoid threads, and the
spores are rusty. The number of edible species are few. Foremost is
the really handsome _Cortinarius violaeus_, Fr.,[Y] often nearly four
inches in diameter, and of a beautiful violet colour; and the smaller
_Cortinarius castaneus_, Fr.,[Z] scarcely exceeding an inch in
diameter, both being found in woods, and common alike to Britain and
the United States. _Cortinarius cinnamomeus_, Fr., is also a lover of
woods, and in northern latitudes is found inhabiting them everywhere.
It has a cinnamon-coloured pileus, with yellowish flesh, and its odour
and flavour is said to partake of the same spice. In Germany it is
held in high esteem. _Cortinarius emodensis_, B., is eaten in Northern
India.
The small genus _Lepista_ of Smith, (which, however, is not adopted by
Fries in his now edition of the "Epicrisis") includes one esculent
species in _Lepista personata_, the _Agaricus personatus_ of Fries.[a]
It is by no means uncommon in Northern Europe or America, frequently
growing in large rings; the pileus is pallid, and the stem stained
with lilac. Formerly it was said to be sold in Covent Garden Market
under the name of "blewits," but we have failed to see or hear of it
during many years in London.
Small fungi of ivory-whiteness are very common amongst grass on lawns
in autumn. These are chiefly _Hygrophorus virgineus_, Fr.,[b] and
although not much exceeding an inch in diameter, with a short stem,
and wide decurrent gills, they are so plentiful in season that
quantity soon compensates for the small size. Except that it is
occasionally eaten in France, it does not enjoy much reputation
abroad. A larger species, varying from buff to orange, _Hygrophorus
pratensis_, Fr.,[c] is scarcely less common in open pastures. This is
very gregarious in habit, often growing in tufts, or portions of
rings. The pileus is fleshy in the centre, and the gills thick and
decurrent. In France, Germany, Bohemia, and Denmark, it is included
with esculent species. In addition may be mentioned _Hygrophorus
eburneus_, Fr., another white species, as also _Hygrophorus niveus_,
Fr., which grows in mossy pastures. _Paxillus involutus_, Fr.,[d]
though very common in Europe, is not eaten, yet it is included by Dr.
Curtis with the esculent species of the United States.
The milky agarics, belonging to the genus _Lactarius_, are distinguished
by the milky juice which is exuded when they are wounded. The spores
are more or less globose, and rough or echinulate, at least in many
species. The most notable esculent is _Lactarius deliciosus_, Fr.,[e] in
which the milk is at first saffron-red, and afterwards greenish, the
plant assuming a lurid greenish hue wherever bruised or broken.
Universal commendation seems to fall upon this species, writers
vying with each other to say the best in its praise, and mycophagists
everywhere endorsing the assumption of its name, declaring it to be
delicious. It is found in the markets of Paris, Berlin, Prague, and
Vienna, as we are informed, and in Sweden, Denmark, Switzerland,
Russia, Belgium; in fact, in nearly all countries in Europe it is
esteemed.
Another esculent species, _Lactarius volemum_, Fr.,[f] has white milk,
which is mild to the taste, whilst in deleterious species with white
milk it is pungent and acrid. This species has been celebrated from
early times, and is said to resemble lamb's kidney.
_Lactarius piperatus_, Fr., is classed in England with dangerous,
sometimes poisonous species, whereas the late Dr. Curtis, of North
Carolina, has distinctly informed us that it is cooked and eaten
in the United States, and that he has partaken of it. He includes
_Lactarius insulsus_, Fr., and _Lactarius subdulcis_, Fr.,[g]
amongst esculent species; both are also found in this country, but
not reputed as edible; and _Lactarius angustissimus_, Lasch, which
is not British. Species of _Lactarius_ seem to be eaten almost
indiscriminately in Russia when preserved in vinegar and salt, in
which condition they form an important item in the kinds of food
allowed in their long fasts, some _Boleti_ in the dried state
entering into the same category.
The species of _Russula_ in many respects resemble _Lactarii_ without
milk. Some of them are dangerous, and others esculent. Amongst the
latter may be enumerated _Russula heterophylla_, Fr., which is very
common in woods. Vittadini pronounces it unsurpassed for fineness of
flavour by even the notable _Amanita cæsarea_.[h] Roques gives also an
account in its favour as consumed in France. Both these authors give
favourable accounts of _Russula virescens_, P.,[i] which the peasants
about Milan are in the habit of putting over wood embers to toast, and
eating afterwards with a little salt. Unfortunately it is by no means
common in England. A third species of _Russula_, with buff-yellow
gills, is _Russula alutacea_, Fr., which is by no means to be
despised, notwithstanding that Dr. Badham has placed it amongst
species to be avoided. Three or four others have also the merit of
being harmless, and these recorded as esculent by some one or more
mycological authors: _Russula lactea_, Fr., a white species, found
also in the United States; _Russula lepida_, Fr., a roseate species,
found also in lower Carolina, U.S.; and another reddish species,
_Russula vesca_, Fr., as well as _Russula decolorans_, Fr. Whilst
writing of this genus, we may observe, by way of caution, that it
includes also one very noxious red species, _Russula emetica_, Fr.,
with white gills, with which some of the foregoing might be confounded
by inexperienced persons.
The chantarelle _Cantharellus cibarius_, Fr., has a most charming and
enticing appearance and odour. In colour, it is of a bright golden
yellow, and its smell has been compared to that of ripe apricots. It
is almost universally eaten in all countries where it is found,
England excepted, where it is only to be met with at the "Freemason's
Tavern" on state occasions, and at the tables of pertinacious
mycophagists.[j] Trattinnick says: "Not only this same fungus never
did any one harm, but might even restore the dead."[k]
The fairy-ring champignon _Marasmius oreades_, Fr., though small, is
plentiful, and one of the most delicious of edible fungi. It grows in
exposed pastures, forming rings, or parts of rings. This champignon
possesses the advantage of drying readily, and preserving its aroma
for a long time. We have often regretted that no persistent attempts
and experiments have been made with the view of cultivating this
excellent and useful species. _Marasmius scorodonius_, Fr.,[l] a
small, strong-scented, and in all respects inferior species, found on
heaths and dry pastures, extending even to the United States, is
consumed in Germany, Austria, and other continental countries, where,
perhaps its garlic odour has been one of its recommendations as an
ingredient in sauces. In this enumeration we have not exhausted all
the gill-bearing species which might be eaten, having included only
those which have some reputation as esculents, and of these more
particularly those found in Great Britain and the United States.
Amongst the _Polyporei_, in which the gill plates are represented by
pores or tubes, fewer esculent species are to be met with than in the
_Agaricini_, and the majority of these belong to the genus _Boletus_.
Whilst in Vienna and Hanover, we were rather surprised to find
_Boletus edulis_, Fr., cut into thin slices and dried, exposed for
sale in almost every shop where meal, peas, and other farinaceous
edibles were sold. This species is common enough in England, but as a
rule it does not seem to please the English palate, whereas on the
continent no fungus is more commonly eaten. This is believed to be the
suillus eaten by the ancient Romans,[m] who obtained it from Bithynia.
The modern Italians dry them on strings for winter use, and in
Hungary a soup is made from them when fresh. A more excellent species,
according to our judgment, is _Boletus æstivalis_, Fr.,[n] which
appears in early summer, and has a peculiar nutty flavour when raw,
reminding one more of a fresh mushroom. _Boletus scaber_, Fr.,[o] is
also common in Britain, as well as the continent, but does not enjoy
so good a reputation as _B. edulis_. Krombholz says that _Boletus
bovinus_, Fr., a gregarious species, found on heaths and in fir woods,
is much sought after abroad as a dish, and is good when dried.
_Boletus castaneus_, Fr.,[p] is a small species with a mild, pleasant
taste when raw, and very good when properly cooked. It is not
uncommonly eaten on the continent. _Boletus chrysenteron_, Fr.,[q] and
_Boletus subtomentosus_, Fr., are said to be very poor eating, and
some authors have considered them injurious; but Mr. W. G. Smith
states that he has on more than one occasion eaten the former, and
Trattinnick states that the latter is eaten in Germany. The late Mr.
Salter informed us that, when employed on the geological staff, he at
one time lived almost entirely on different species of Boleti, without
using much discrimination. Sir W. C. Trevelyan also informs us that he
has eaten _Boletus luridus_ without any unpleasant consequences, but
we confess that we should be sorry to repeat the experiment. Dr.
Badham remarks that he has eaten _Boletus Grevillei_, B., _Boletus
flavus_, With., and _Boletus granulatus_, L., the latter being
recognized also as edible abroad. Dr. Curtis experimented, in the
United States, on _Boletus collinitus_, and although he professes not
to be particularly fond of the Boleti, he recognizes it as esculent,
and adds that it had been pronounced delicious by some to whom he had
sent it. He also enumerates as edible _Boletus luteus_, Fr., _Boletus
elegans_, Fr., _Boletus flavidus_, Fr., _Boletus versipellis_, Fr.,
_Boletus leucomelas_, Tr., and _Boletus ovinus_, Sch. Two Italian
species of _Polyporus_ must not be forgotten. These are _Polyporus
tuberaster_, Pers., which is procured by watering the _pietra
funghaia_, or fungus stone, a kind of tufa, in which the mycelium is
embedded. It is confined to Naples. The other species is _Polyporus
corylinus_, Mauri., procured artificially in Rome from charred stumps
of the cob-nut tree.[r]
Of true _Polyporus_, only two or three species have been regarded
favourably as esculents. These are--_Polyporus intybaceus_, Fr., which
is of very large size, sometimes attaining as much as forty pounds;
_Polyporus giganteus_, Fr., also very large, and leathery when old.
Both these species are natives of Britain. Only young and juicy
specimens must be selected for cooking. _Polyporus umbellatus_, Fr.,
is stated by Fries to be esculent, but it is not found in Britain.
_Polyporus squamosus_, Fr., has been also included; but Mrs. Hussey
thinks that one might as well think of eating saddle-flaps. None of
these receive very much commendation. Dr. Curtis enumerates, amongst
North American species, the _Polyporus cristatus_, Fr., _Polyporus
poripes_, Fr., which, when raw, tastes like the best chestnuts or
filberts, but is rather too dry when cooked. _Polyporus Berkeleii_,
Fr., is intensely pungent when raw, but when young, and before the
pores are visible, it may be eaten with impunity, all its pungency
being dissipated by cooking. _Polyporus confluens_, Fr., he considers
superior, and, in fact, quite a favourite. _Polyporus sulfureus_, Fr.,
which is not eaten in Europe, he considers just tolerably safe, but
not to be coveted. It is by no means to be recommended to persons with
weak stomachs. In his catalogue, Dr. Curtis enumerates one hundred and
eleven species of edible fungi found in Carolina.[s]
With _Fistulina hepatica_, Fr., it is different; for here we encounter
a fleshy, juicy fungus, resembling beefsteak a little in appearance,
and so much more in its uses, that the name of "beefsteak fungus" has
been given to it. Some authors are rapturous in their praise of
_Fistulina_. It sometimes attains a very large size, Dr. Badham
quoting[t] one found by himself nearly five feet in circumference,
and weighing eight pounds; whilst another found by Mr. Graves weighed
nearly thirty pounds. In Vienna it is sliced and eaten with salad,
like beetroot, which it then much resembles. On the continent it is
everywhere included amongst the best of edible species.
The _Hydnei_, instead of pores or tubes, are characterized by spines
or warts, over which the fructifying surface is expanded. The most
common is _Hydnum repandum_, Fr., found in woods and woody places in
England, and on the continent, extending into the United States. When
raw, it is peppery to the taste, but when cooked is much esteemed.
From its drier nature, it can readily be dried for winter use. Less
common in England is _Hydnum imbricatum_, Fr., although not so
uncommon on the continent. It is eaten in Germany, Austria,
Switzerland, France, and elsewhere. _Hydnum lævigatum_, Swartz, is
eaten in Alpine districts.[u] Of the branched species, _Hydnum
coralloides_, Scop.,[v] and _Hydnum Caput Medusæ_, Bull,[w] are
esculent, but very rare in England. The latter is not uncommon in
Austria and Italy, the former in Germany, Switzerland, and France.
_Hydnum erinaceum_, Bull, is eaten in Germany[x] and France.
The Clavarioid fungi are mostly small, but of these the majority of
the white-spored are edible. _Clavaria rugosa_, Bull, is a common
British species, as also is _Clavaria coralloides_, L., the former
being found also in the United States. _Clavaria fastigiata_, D. C.,
is not uncommon; but _Clavaria amethystina_, Bull, a beautiful violet
species, is rare. In France and Italy, _Clavaria cinerea_, Bull, is
classed with esculents; and it is not uncommon in Britain. _Clavaria
botrytis_, P., and _Clavaria aurea_, Schæff., are large and beautiful
species, but rare with us; they extend also into the United States.
Others might be named (Dr. Curtis enumerates thirteen species eaten in
Carolina), which are certainly wholesome, but they are of little
importance as edible species. _Sparassis crispa_, Fr., is, on the
contrary, very large, resembling in size,[y] and somewhat in
appearance, a cauliflower; it has of late years been found several
times in this country. In Austria it is fricasseed with butter and
herbs.
Of the true Tremellæ, none merit insertion here. The curious Jew's ear
(_Hirneola auricula-Judæ_, Fr.), with one or two other species of
_Hirneola_, are collected in great quantities in Tahiti, and shipped
in a dried state to China, where they are used for soup. Some of these
find their way to Singapore.
The false truffles (_Hypogæi_) are of doubtful value, one species
(_Melanogaster variegatus_, Tul.) having formerly been sold in the
markets of Bath as a substitute for the genuine truffle.[z] Neither
amongst the _Phalloidei_ do we meet with species of any economic
value. The gelatinous volva of a species of _Ileodictyon_ is eaten by
the New Zealanders, to whom it is known as thunder dirt; whilst that
of _Phallus Mokusin_ is applied to a like purpose in China;[AA] but
these examples would not lead us to recommend a similar use for
_Phallus impudicus_, Fr., in Britain, or induce us to prove the
assertion of a Scotch friend that the porous stem is very good
eating.
One species of puff-ball, _Lycoperdon giganteum_, Fr,[AB] has many
staunch advocates, and whilst young and cream-like, it is, when well
manipulated, an excellent addition to the breakfast-table. A decided
advantage is possessed by this species, since one specimen is often
found large enough to satisfy the appetites of ten or twelve persons.
Other species of _Lycoperdon_ have been eaten when young, and we have
been assured by those who have made the experiment, that they are
scarcely inferior to their larger congener. _Bovista nigrescens_, Fr.,
and _Bovista plumbea_, Fr., are also eaten in the United States. More
than one species of _Lycoperdon_ and _Bovista_ appear in the bazaars
of India, as at Secunderabad and Rangoon; while the white ant-hills,
together with an excellent Agaric, produce one or more species of
_Podaxon_ which are esculent when young. A species of _Scleroderma_
which grows abundantly in sandy districts, is substituted for truffles
in Perigord pies, of which, however, it does not possess any of the
aroma.
[Illustration: FIG. 43.--_Morchella gigaspora_, from Kashmir.]
Passing over the rest of the sporiferous fungi, we find amongst the
_Ascomycetous_ group several that are highly esteemed. Amongst these
may first be named the species of morel, which are regarded as
delicacies wherever they are found. _Morchella esculenta_, Pers., is
the most common species, but we have also _Morchella semilibera_, D.
C., and the much larger _Morchella crassipes_, Pers. Probably all the
species of _Morchella_ are esculent, and we know that many besides the
above are eaten in Europe and other places; _Morchella deliciosa_,
Fr., in Java; _Morchella bohemica_, Kromb., in Bohemia; _Morchella
gigaspora_, Cooke, and _Morchella deliciosa_, Fr., in Kashmere.[AC]
_Morchella rimosipes_, D. C., occurs in France and Bohemia;
_Morchella Caroliniana_, Bosc., in the Southern United States of
America. W. G. Smith records the occurrence in Britain of specimens of
_Morchella crassipes_, P., ten inches in height, and one specimen was
eleven inches high, with a diameter of seven and a half inches.[AD]
Similar in uses, though differing in appearance, are the species of
_Helvella_, of which several are edible. In both these genera, the
individuals can be dried so readily that they are the more valuable on
that account, as they can be used for flavouring in winter when fresh
specimens of any kind of fungus are difficult to procure. The most
common English species is _Helvella crispa_, Fr., but _Helvella
lacunosa_, Fr., is declared to be equally good, though not so large
and somewhat rare. _Helvella infula_, Fr., is also a large species,
but is not British, although it extends to North America, as also does
_Helvella sulcata_, Afz. Intermediate between the morel and _Helvella_
is the species which was formerly included with the latter, but now
known as _Gyromitra esculenta_, Fr.[AE] It is rarely found in Great
Britain, but is more common on the continent, where it is held in
esteem. A curious stipitate fungus, with a pileus like a hood, called
_Verpa digitaliformis_, Pers.,[AF] is uncommon in England, but
Vittadini states that it is sold in the Italian markets, although only
to be recommended when no other esculent fungus offers, which is
sometimes the case in spring.[AG]
Two or three species of _Peziza_ have the reputation of being
esculent, but they are of very little value; one of these is _Peziza
acetabulum_, L., another is _Peziza cochleata_, Huds., and a third is
_Peziza venosa_, Pers.[AH] The latter has the most decided nitrous
odour, and also fungoid flavour, whilst the former seem to have but
little to recommend them; we have seen whole baskets full of _Peziza
cochleata_ gathered in Northamptonshire as a substitute for morels.
A very interesting genus of edible fungi, growing on evergreen
beech trees in South America, has been named _Cyttaria_. One of
these, _Cyttaria Darwinii_, B., occurs in Terra del Fuego, where it
was found by Mr. C. Darwin[AI] growing in vast numbers, and
forming a very essential article of food for the natives. Another is
_Cyttaria Berteroi_, B., also seen by Mr. Darwin in Chili, and eaten
occasionally, but apparently not so good as the preceding.[AJ] Another
species is _Cyttaria Gunnii_, B., which abounds in Tasmania, and is
held in repute amongst the settlers for its esculent properties.[AK]
[Illustration: FIG. 44.--_Cyttaria Gunnii_, B.]
It remains for us only to note the subterranean fungi, of which the
truffle is the type, to complete our enumeration of esculent species.
The truffle which is consumed in England is _Tuber æstivum_, Vitt.;
but in France the more highly-flavoured _Tuber melanospermum_,
Vitt.,[AL] and also _Tuber magnatum_, Pico, with some other species.
In Italy they are very common, whilst some are found in Algeria. One
species at least is recorded in the North-west of India, but in
Northern Europe and North America they appear to be rare, and
_Terfezia Leonis_ is used as an esculent in Damascus. A large species
of _Mylitta_, sometimes several inches in diameter, occurs plentifully
in some parts of Australia. Although often included with fungi, the
curious production known under the name of _Pachyma cocos_, Fr., is
not a fungus, as proved by the examinations made by the Rev. M. J.
Berkeley. It is eaten under the name of "Tuckahoe" in the United
States, and as it consists almost entirely of pectic acid, it is
sometimes used in the manufacture of jelly.
In the Neilgherries (S. India), a substance is occasionally found
which is allied to the native bread of southern latitudes. It is found
at an elevation of 5,000 feet. The natives call it "a little man's
bread," in allusion to the tradition that the Neilgherries were once
peopled by a race of dwarfs.[AM] At first it was supposed that these
were the bulbs of some orchid, but later another view was held of
their character. Mr. Scott, who examined the specimens sent down to
him, remarks that, instead of being the product of orchids, it is that
of an underground fungus of the genus _Mylitta_. It indeed seems, he
says, very closely allied to, if really distinct from, the so-called
native bread of Tasmania.[AN]