Skyring's chart--Noir Island--Penguins--Fuegians--Sarmiento--Townshend
Harbour--Horace Peaks--Cape Desolation--Boat lost--Basket--Search in
Desolate Bay--Natives--Heavy gale--Surprise--Seizure--Consequences--
Return to Beagle--Sail to Stewart Harbour--Set out again--Escape of
Natives--Unavailing search--Discomforts--Tides--Nature of Coast--Doris
Cove--Christmas Sound--Cook--York-Minster--March Harbour--Build a boat--
Treacherous rocks--Skirmish with the Natives--Captives--Boat-memory--
Petrel.
"25th. We weighed, and went round to Fury Harbour, for the carpenter and
his cargo, and met him with a spar and a raft of plank, taken from the
wreck. Having hoisted the boat up, and got the plank on board, we stood out
towards the West Furies, by the wind; my intention being either to sail
round Noir Island, or anchor under it, before running to the eastward, in
order that no part of the sea-coast might be left unexamined. We passed
very near some of the rocks, but as the day was fine and the weather clear,
a good look-out at the mast-head could be trusted.
"Before leaving the vicinity of Mount Skyring, I should remark that the
true bearing of Mount Sarmiento's summit, which I obtained from the top of
Mount Skyring, laid off on Lieutenant Skyring's chart, passed as truly
through his position of the summit as if the line had been merely drawn
between them. This is highly creditable to his work, for I know he did not
himself see Mount Sarmiento, when upon Mount Skyring.
"The breeze freshened, and drew more to the westward towards evening, I had
therefore no hopes of nearing Noir Island. We saw the Tower Rocks
distinctly before dark, and stood on towards them until ten o'clock,
closing Scylla to avoid Charybdis, for in-shore of us lay all those
scattered rocks, {387} among which we had steered when passing the Agnes
Islands and Cape Kempe.
"The night was spent in making short boards, under reefed topsails, over
the same two miles of ground, as nearly as possible, with the lead going,
and a thoroughly good look-out. At daylight next morning the wind became
strong and the weather thick, with rain, but we made as much sail as we
could carry, and worked to windward all the day. In the afternoon it
moderated, and before dark we anchored in a very good roadstead, at the
east end of Noir Island, sheltered from all winds from N. to S.b.E. (by the
west); over a clear, sandy bottom; and with a sheltered cove near us where
boats may land easily, and get plenty of wood and water. In working up to
the Island, we passed very near a dangerous rock, under water, lying four
miles off shore; and another, near the anchorage. The sea does not break on
either of them when there is not much swell.
"27th. A fine day favoured us; the master went to one part of the island,
and Mr. Stokes to another, while I went to a third. Having taken angles at
the extreme west point (which ends in a cluster of rocks like needles), I
passed quite round the island, and returned to the anchorage after dusk,
landing here and there for bearings, in my way.
"There is a cove at the south part of the island, where boats would be
perfectly safe in any weather, but the entrance is too narrow for decked
vessels. The island itself is narrow and long, apparently the top of a
ridge of mountains, and formed of sand-stone,[187] which accounts for the
bottom near it being so good, and for the needle-like appearance of the
rocks at the west end; as the sand-stone, being very soft, is continually
wearing away by the action of the water.
"Multitudes of penguins were swarming together in some parts of the island,
among the bushes and 'tussac'[188] near the shore, having gone there for
the purposes of moulting and {388} rearing their young. They were very
valiant in self-defence, and ran open-mouthed, by dozens, at any one who
invaded their territory, little knowing how soon a stick could scatter them
on the ground. The young were good eating, but the others proved to be
black and tough, when cooked. The manner in which they feed their young is
curious, and rather amusing. The old bird gets on a little eminence, and
makes a great noise (between quacking and braying), holding its head up in
the air, as if it were haranguing the penguinnery, while the young one
stands close to it, but a little lower. The old bird having continued its
clatter for about a minute, puts its head down, and opens its mouth widely,
into which the young one thrusts its head, and then appears to suck from
the throat of its mother for a minute or two, after which the clatter is
repeated, and the young one is again fed; this continues for about ten
minutes. I observed some which were moulting make the same noise, and then
apparently swallow what they thus supplied themselves with; so in this way
I suppose they are furnished with subsistence during the time they cannot
seek it in the water. Many hair seal were seen about the island, and three
were killed. Wild fowl were very numerous. Strange to say, traces of the
Fuegians (a wigwam, &c.) were found, which shows how far they will at times
venture in their canoes.
"No danger lies outside of Noir Island, except in the Tower Rocks, which
are above water, and 'steep-to,' but many perils lie to the south-eastward.
Indeed, a worse place than the neighbourhood of Cape Kempe and the Agnes
Islands could not often be found, I think: the chart of it, with all its
stars to mark the rocks, looks like a map of part of the heavens, rather
than part of the earth.
"28th. At daylight, we sailed from these roads, and passed close to the
Tower Rocks (within half a cable's length): they are two only in number, a
mile and a half apart, and steep-sided. Thence we steered towards St.
Paul's, my intention being to seek an anchorage in that direction. This day
proved very fine and so clear that when we were becalmed, off St. Paul's,
we saw Mount Sarmiento distinctly from the deck. A breeze {389} carried us
through Pratt Passage, which separates London Island from Sydney Island, to
an anchorage in a good harbour, under a high peaked hill (Horace Peaks),
which is a good mark for it. Finding no soundings in the Passage as we
approached, gave us reason to be anxious; but in the harbour, the bottom
proved to be excellent, and the water only of a moderate depth. As soon as
we anchored, I tried to ascend Horace Peaks, but returned without having
reached their summits before dark; however, I saw enough to give me a
general idea of the distribution of the land and water near us. I thought
that this anchorage would be favourable for ascertaining the latitude of
Cape Schomberg[189] with exactness: having found a considerable difference
between our chart and that of Lieutenant Skyring, respecting the latitude
of that promontory.
"Meanwhile I contemplated sending the master to a headland called by Cook,
Cape Desolation, and which well deserves the name, being a high, craggy,
barren range of land. I was not sorry to find myself in a safe anchorage,
for the weather seemed lowering; and after being favoured with some
moderate days, we could not but expect a share of wind and rain.
"29th. This morning the weather looked as if we should be repaid for the
few fine days which we had enjoyed; but as we felt it necessary to work in
bad weather as well as in good, it did not prevent the master from setting
out on his way to Cape Desolation; near which, as a conspicuous headland,
whose position would be of great consequence, he was to search for a
harbour, and obtain observations for connecting the survey. He could not
have been in a finer boat (a whale-boat built by Mr. May, at San Carlos);
and as he well knew what to do with her, I did not feel uneasy for his
safety, although after his departure the wind increased rapidly, and
towards evening blew a hard gale. The barometer had not given so much
warning as usual; but it had been falling gradually since our arrival in
this harbour, and continued to fall. The sympiesometer had been more on the
alert, and had fallen more rapidly.
"(30th.) A continued gale, with rain and thick weather {390} throughout the
day. During the night the weather became rather more moderate; but on the
morning of the 31st, the wind again increased to a gale, and towards noon,
the williwaws were so violent, that our small cutter, lying astern of the
ship, was fairly capsized, though she had not even a mast standing. The
ship herself careened, as if under a press of sail, sending all loose
things to leeward with a general crash (not being secured for sea, while
moored in so small a cove), but so rapidly did these blasts from the
mountains pass by, that with a good scope of chain out, it was hardly
strained to its utmost before the squall was over. While the gale was
increasing, in the afternoon, the topmasts were struck; yet still, in the
squalls, the vessel heeled many strakes when they caught her a-beam. At
night they followed in such rapid succession, that if the holding-ground
had not been excellent, and our ground-tackle very strong, we must have
been driven on the rocks.
"Under the lee of high land is not the best anchorage in these regions.
When good holding-ground can be found to windward of a height, and low land
lies to windward of the anchorage, sufficient to break the sea, the place
is much to be preferred; because the wind is steady and does not blow home
against the height. The lee side of these heights is a great deal worse
than the west side of Gibraltar Rock while the strongest Levanter is
blowing.
"Considering that this month corresponds to August in our climate, it is
natural to compare them, and to think how hay and corn would prosper in a
Fuegian summer. As yet I have found no difference in Tierra del Fuego
between summer and winter, excepting that in the former the days are
longer, and the average temperature is perhaps ten degrees higher, but
there is also then more wind and rain.
"The gale still continued, and prevented any thing being done out of the
ship. However safe a cove Mr. Murray might have found, his time, I knew,
must be passing most irksomely, as he could not have moved about since the
day he left us. He had a week's provisions, but with moderate weather would
have returned in three days. {391}
"Feb. 2d. Still very squally and unsettled. This gale began at N.N.W., and
drew round to S.S.W. Much rain comes usually from the N.W. quarter; and as
the wind draws southward, the weather becomes clearer. The squalls from the
southern quarter bring a great deal of hail with them.
"3d. I was enabled to take a round of angles from Horace Peaks, over the
ship, the sky being clear near the horizon. The theodolite had been left
near the top since the 28th, each day having been too bad to use it. These
peaked hills required time and exertion in the ascent; but the wide range
of view obtained from their summits on a clear day, amply repaid us for
both. If the height was sufficient, it gave a bird's-eye view of many
leagues, and showed at a glance where channels lay, which were islands, and
what was the nature of the surrounding land and water. The shattered state
of all these peaks is remarkable: frost, I think, must be the chief cause.
"After being deceived by the magnetism of Mount Skyring and other places, I
never trusted the compass on a height, but always set up a mark near the
water, at some distance, and from it obtained the astronomical bearing of
my station at the summit. This afternoon we prepared the ship to proceed as
soon as the master should arrive.
"4th. Moderate weather. I was surprised that the master did not make his
appearance; yet, having full confidence in his prudent management, and
knowing that he had been all the time among islands, upon any one of which
he could haul up his boat and remain in safety during the gales, I did not
feel much anxiety, but supposed he was staying to take the necessary angles
and observations, in which he had been delayed by the very bad weather we
had lately experienced.
"At three this morning (5th), I was called up to hear that the whale-boat
was lost--stolen by the natives; and that her coxswain and two men had just
reached the ship in a clumsy canoe, made like a large basket, of
wicker-work covered with pieces of canvas, and lined with clay, very leaky,
and difficult to paddle. They had been sent by the master, who, with the
other people, was at the cove under Cape Desolation, where {392} they
stopped on the first day. Their provisions were all consumed, two-thirds
having been stolen with the boat, and the return of the natives, to
plunder, and perhaps kill them, was expected daily.
"The basket, I cannot call it a canoe, left the Cape (now doubly deserving
of its name) early on the morning of the 4th, and worked its way slowly and
heavily amongst the islands, the men having only one biscuit each with
them. They paddled all day, and the following night, until two o'clock this
morning (5th), when in passing the cove where the ship lay, they heard one
of our dogs bark, and found their way to us quite worn out by fatigue and
hunger. Not a moment was lost, my boat was immediately prepared, and I
hastened away with a fortnight's provisions for eleven men, intending to
relieve the master, and then go in search of the stolen boat. The weather
was rainy, and the wind fresh and squally; but at eleven o'clock I reached
the cove, having passed to seaward of the cape, and there found Mr. Murray
anxiously, but doubtfully, awaiting my arrival. My first object, after
inquiring into the business, was to scrutinize minutely the place where the
boat had been moored, (for I could not believe that she had been stolen;)
but I was soon convinced that she had been well secured in a perfectly safe
place, and that she must, indeed, have been taken away, just before
daylight, by the natives. Her mast and sails, and part of the provisions
were in her; but the men's clothes and the instruments had fortunately been
landed. It was the usual custom with our boats, when away from the ship, to
keep a watch at night; but this place appeared so isolated and desolate,
that such a precaution did not seem necessary. Had I been with the boat, I
should probably have lost her in the same manner; for I only kept a watch
when I thought there was occasion, as I would not harass the boat's crew
unnecessarily; and on this exposed and sea-beaten island, I should not have
suspected that Indians would be found. It appeared that a party of them
were living in two wigwams, in a little cove about a mile from that in
which our boat lay, and must have seen her arrive; {393} while their
wigwams were so hidden as to escape the observation of the whale-boat's
crew. At two o'clock on the first morning, Mr. Murray sent one of the men
out of the tent to see if the boat rode well at her moorings in the cove,
and he found her secure. At four another man went to look out, but she was
then gone. The crew, doubtful what had been her fate, immediately spread
about the shore of the island to seek for traces of her, and in their
search they found the wigwams, evidently just deserted: the fire not being
extinguished. This at once explained the mystery, and some proceeding along
the shore, others went up on the hills to look for her in the offing; but
all in vain. The next morning Mr. Murray began the basket, which was made
chiefly by two of his men out of small boughs, and some parts of the tent,
with a lining of clayey earth at the bottom. Being on an island, about
fifteen miles from the Beagle, their plan was as necessary as it was
ingenious: though certainly something more like a canoe than a coracle
could have been paddled faster.
"The chronometer, theodolite, and other instruments having been saved, Mr.
Murray had made observations for fixing the position of the place, and had
done all that was required before I arrived, when they embarked, with their
things, in my boat, which then contained altogether eleven men, a
fortnight's provisions, two tents,[190] and clothing; yet with this load
she travelled many a long mile, during the following week, a proof of the
qualities of this five-oared whale-boat, which was also built by Mr.
Jonathan May, our carpenter, while we were at San Carlos.
"The very first place we went to, a small island about two miles distant,
convinced us still more decidedly of the fate of our lost boat, and gave us
hopes of retrieving her; for near a lately used wigwam, we found her mast,
part of which had been cut off with an axe that was in the boat. Our next
point was then to be considered, for to chase the thieves I was determined.
North and east of us, as far as the eye could reach, lay an extensive {394}
bay in which were many islands, large and small; and westward was a more
connected mass of large islands reaching, apparently, to the foot of that
grand chain of snowy mountains, which runs eastward from the Barbara
Channel, and over the midst of which Sarmiento proudly towers. I resolved
to trace the confines of the bay, from the west, towards the north and
east, thinking it probable that the thieves would hasten to some secure
cove, at a distance, rather than remain upon an outlying island, whence
their retreat might be cut off. In the evening we met a canoe containing
two Fuegians, a man and a woman, who made us understand, by signs, that
several canoes were gone to the northward. This raised our hopes, and we
pushed on. The woman, just mentioned, was the best looking I have seen
among the Fuegians, and really well-featured: her voice was pleasing, and
her manner neither so suspicious nor timid as that of the rest. Though
young she was uncommonly fat, and did justice to a diet of limpets and
muscles. Both she and her husband were perfectly naked. Having searched the
coves for some distance farther, night came on, and we landed in a
sheltered spot.
"The next day (6th), we found some rather doubtful traces of the thieves.
Towards night it blew a strong gale, with hail-squalls and rain.
"On the 7th, at a place more than thirty miles E.N.E. of Cape Desolation,
we fell in with a native family, and on searching their two canoes found
our boat's lead line. This was a prize indeed; and we immediately took the
man who had it into our boat, making him comprehend that he must show us
where the people were, from whom he got it. He understood our meaning well
enough, and following his guidance we reached a cove that afternoon, in
which were two canoes full of women and children; but only one old man, and
a lad of seventeen or eighteen. As usual with the Fuegians, upon perceiving
us they all ran away into the bushes, carrying off as much of their
property as possible--returning again naked, and huddling together in a
corner. After a minute search, some of the boat's gear was found, part of
her sail, and {395} an oar, the loom of which had been made into a
seal-club, and the blade into a paddle. The axe, and the boat's tool-bag
were also found, which convinced us that this was the resort of those who
had stolen our boat; and that the women, six in number, were their wives.
The men were probably absent, in our boat, on a sealing expedition; as a
fine large canoe, made of fir-plank, perhaps from the wreck of the Saxe
Cobourg, was lying on the beach without paddles or spears. She did not come
there without paddles: and where were the spears of which every Fuegian
family has plenty? It was evident that the men of the party had taken them
in our boat, and had cut up our oars like the one they had accidentally
left. The women understood what we wanted, and made eager signs to explain
to us where our boat was gone. I did not like to injure them, and only took
away our own gear, and the young man, who came very readily, to show us
where our boat was, and, with the man who had brought us to the place,
squatted down in the boat apparently much pleased with some clothes and red
caps, which were given to them. We had always behaved kindly to the
Fuegians wherever we met them, and did not yet know how to treat them as
they deserved, although they had robbed us of so great a treasure, upon the
recovery or loss of which much of the success of our voyage depended.
Following the guidance of these two natives, we pulled against wind and
rain until dark, when it became absolutely necessary to secure our boat for
the night, deeply laden as she was with thirteen people. As we were then at
a great distance from the place, whence we brought the natives, having
pulled for four hours alongshore, and as they seemed to be quite at their
ease, and contented, I would not secure our guides as prisoners, but
allowed them to lie by the fire in charge of the man on watch. About an
hour before daylight, although the look-out man was only a few yards
distant from the fire, they slipped into the bushes, and as it was almost
dark were immediately out of sight. Their escape was discovered directly,
but to search for them during darkness, in a thick wood, would have been
useless; besides, our men were tired with their day's work, and wanted
rest, so {396} I would not disturb them until daylight (8th), when we
continued our search in the direction the natives had indicated; but after
examining several coves without finding any traces of Fuegians, we hastened
back towards the wigwams we had visited on the previous day. Sailing close
along-shore, a large smoke suddenly rose up, out of a small cove close by
us, where we immediately landed, and looked all round; but found only the
foot-prints of two Fuegians, probably the runaways, who had just succeeded
in lighting a fire at the moment we passed by. This shows how quickly they
find materials for the purpose, for when they left us, they had neither
iron nor fire-stone (pyrites), nor any kind of tinder. They had carried off
two tarpaulin coats, which Mr. Murray had kindly put on to keep them warm;
although, treated as he had so lately been, one might have thought he would
not have been the first to care for their comfort. I mention these
incidents to show what was our behaviour to these savages, and that no
wanton cruelty was exercised towards them.
"After looking for these two natives, and for Mr. Murray's coats, which at
that time he could ill spare, we returned to our boat, and pushed on
towards the wigwams. The moment the inmates saw us, they ran away, and we
gave chase, trying, in vain, to make them stop. Disappointed in the hope of
obtaining a guide, we determined to prevent these people from escaping far,
and spreading any intelligence likely to impede the return of our boat,
which we daily expected: we therefore destroyed two canoes, and part of a
third, that the natives were building, and burned every material which
could be useful to them in making another canoe.
"(9th). Next day, we went straight across the bay to Cape Desolation,
against a fresh breeze: by pulling in turns, the boat was kept going fast
through the water, and late in the evening we reached the cove from which
the thieves had first started, when they stole the boat; but no traces of
their having been there again, were found. I thought it probable that they
would return to see what had become of our party, and whether our people
were weak enough to be plundered again, or perhaps attacked. {397}
"This idea proving wrong, we retraced (10th) much of our former course,
because the direction pointed out by the Fuegians who ran away from us
seemed to lead towards the place we now steered for, Courtenay Sound, and
was a probable line for the thieves to take. During the night it blew a
gale from the southward, which increased next day (11th), and became more
and more violent until the morning of the 12th, when it abated.
"We continued our search, however, sometimes under a close-reefed sail;
sometimes on our oars, and sometimes scudding with only the mast up.
Although the wind was very violent, too strong for a close reefed sail
(with four reefs), the water was too much confined by islands to rise into
a sea, but it was blown, as 'spoon drift,' in all directions. This day the
Beagle had her topmasts and lower yards struck, for the gale was extremely
heavy where she lay. The barometer foretold it very well, falling more than
I had previously seen, although the wind was southerly. In an exposed
anchorage, I do not think any vessel could have rode it out, however good
the holding ground.
"12th. This morning the weather was better, and improving fast. We went
over much ground without the smallest success, and in the afternoon steered
to the eastward again, for a third visit to the boat stealers' family. As
it was late when we approached the place, I landed half our party, and with
the rest went to reconnoitre. After a long search we discovered the Indians
in a cove, at some distance from that in which they were on the previous
day; and having ascertained this point, taken a good view of the ground,
and formed our plans, we returned to our companions, and prepared for
surprising the natives and making them prisoners. My wish was to surround
them unawares, and take as many as possible, to be kept as hostages for the
return of our boat, or else to make them show us where she was; and,
meanwhile, it was an object to prevent any from escaping to give the alarm.
"13th. Whether the men belonging to the tribe had returned during our
absence, was uncertain, as we could not, {398} without risk of discovery,
get near enough to ascertain: but, in case we should find them, we went
armed, each with a pistol or gun, a cutlass, and a piece of rope to secure
a prisoner. We landed at some distance from the cove, and, leaving two men
with our boat, crept quietly through the bushes for a long distance round,
until we were quite at the back of the new wigwams; then closing gradually
in a circle, we reached almost to the spot undiscovered; but their dogs
winded us, and all at once ran towards us barking loudly. Further
concealment was impossible, so we rushed on as fast as we could through the
bushes. At first the Indians began to run away; but hearing us shout on
both sides, some tried to hide themselves, by squatting under the banks of
a stream of water. The foremost of our party, Elsmore by name, in jumping
across this stream, slipped, and fell in just where two men and a woman
were concealed: they instantly attacked him, trying to hold him down and
beat out his brains with stones; and before any one could assist him, he
had received several severe blows, and one eye was almost destroyed, by a
dangerous stroke near the temple. Mr. Murray, seeing the man's danger,
fired at one of the Fuegians, who staggered back and let Elsmore escape;
but immediately recovering himself, picked up stones from the bed of the
stream, or was supplied with them by those who stood close to him, and
threw them from each hand with astonishing force and precision. His first
stone struck the master with much force, broke a powder-horn hung round his
neck, and nearly knocked him backwards: and two others were thrown so truly
at the heads of those nearest him, that they barely saved themselves by
dropping down. All this passed in a few seconds, so quick was he with each
hand: but, poor fellow, it was his last struggle; unfortunately he was
mortally wounded, and, throwing one more stone, he fell against the bank
and expired. After some struggling, and a few hard blows, those who tried
to secrete themselves were taken, but several who ran away along the beach
escaped: so strong and stout were the females, that I, for one, had no idea
that it was a woman, whose arms I and my coxswain endeavoured to pinion,
until I heard some {399} one say so. The oldest woman of the tribe was so
powerful, that two of the strongest men of our party could scarcely pull
her out from under the bank of the stream. The man who was shot was one of
those whom we had taken in the boat as a guide, and the other was among our
prisoners. Mr. Murray's coats were found in the wigwams divided into
wrappers to throw over the shoulders. We embarked the Indians (two men,
three women, and six children), and returned to the spot where we had
passed the preceding night. One man who escaped was a one-eyed man we had
seen before; he was more active than any, and soon out of our reach. Two or
three others escaped with him, whom I did not see distinctly.
"That a life should have been lost in the struggle, I lament deeply; but if
the Fuegian had not been shot at that moment, his next blow might have
killed Elsmore, who was almost under water, and more than half stunned, for
he had scarcely sense to struggle away, upon feeling the man's grasp relax.
When fairly embarked, and before we asked any questions, the natives seemed
very anxious to tell us where our boat was; but pointed in a direction
quite opposite to that which they had previously shown us. We guarded them
carefully through the night, and next morning (14th) set out upon our
return to the Beagle, with twenty-two souls in the boat. My object was, to
put them in security on board, run down the coast with the ship to some
harbour more to the eastward, and then set out again upon another search;
carrying some of my prisoners as guides, and leaving the rest on board to
ensure the former remaining, and not deceiving us. We made tolerable
progress, though the boat was so over-loaded, and on the 15th reached the
Beagle with our living cargo. In our way we fell in with a family of
natives, whose wigwams and canoes we searched; but finding none of our
property, we left them not only unmolested, but gave them a few things,
which in their eyes were valuable.
"This conduct appeared to surprise our prisoners, who, as far as we could
make out, received a wholesome lecture, instead {400} of assistance, from
the strangers. At all events, when they parted, our passengers were as
discontented as the others were cheerful. When we got on board, we fed our
prisoners with fat pork and shell-fish, which they liked better than any
thing else, and clothed them with old blankets.[191]
"Next morning (16th) we weighed, and sailed along the coast towards Cape
Castlereagh, at the east side of Desolate Bay. Many straggling rocks and
rocky islets were observed lying off Cape Desolation and in the Bay. That
afternoon, we stood into a narrow opening, which appeared to be the outlet
of a harbour close to Cape Castlereagh, and found a very good anchorage,
well suited for the purposes both of continuing the survey and looking for
the lost boat.
"(17th.) The master and I, with the cutter and a whale-boat, set out upon a
second chase, taking a week's provisions. In the first cove I searched, not
two miles from the Beagle, I found a piece of the boat's lead-line, which
had been left in a lately deserted wigwam. This raised our hopes; and, in
addition to the signs made by our prisoners, convinced us we were on the
right track.
"I took with me a young man as a guide, and in the cutter the master
carried the two stoutest of the women, having left all the rest of our
prisoners on board. As far as we could make out, they appeared to
understand perfectly that their safety and future freedom depended upon
their showing us where to find the boat.
"We intended to go round the Stewart Islands; and after examining many
coves, and finding signs that a party of natives had passed along the same
route within the last two days, we stopped in a sheltered place for the
night. Having given our prisoners as much food as they could eat, muscles,
limpets, and pork, we let them lie down close to the fire, all three
together. I would not tie them, neither did I think it necessary to keep an
unusual watch, supposing that their children being {401} left in our vessel
was a security for the mothers far stronger than rope or iron. I kept watch
myself during the first part of the night, as the men were tired by pulling
all day, and incautiously allowed the Fuegians to lie between the fire and
the bushes, having covered them up so snugly, with old blankets and my own
poncho, that their bodies were entirely hidden. About midnight, while
standing on the opposite side of the fire, looking at the boats, with my
back to the Fuegians, I heard a rustling noise, and turned round; but
seeing the heap of blankets unmoved, satisfied me, and I stooped down to
the fire to look at my watch. At this moment, another rustle, and my dog
jumping up and barking, told me that the natives had escaped. Still the
blankets looked the same, for they were artfully propped up by bushes. All
our party began immediately to search for them; but as the night was quite
dark, and there was a thick wood close to us, our exertions were
unavailing.
"Believing that we could not be far from the place where the natives
supposed our boat to be, I thought that they would go directly and warn
their people of our approach; and as the island was narrow, though long, a
very little travelling would take them across to the part they had pointed
out to us, while it might take a boat a considerable time to go round; I
therefore started immediately to continue the search in that direction, and
left the master to examine every place near our tents.
"In the afternoon of the same day I returned to him, having traversed a
long extent of coast without finding an outlet to sea-ward, or any traces
of the lost boat. Meanwhile Mr. Murray had searched every place near our
bivouac without success; but he found the spot where the Fuegians had
concealed themselves during the night, under the roots of a large tree,
only a dozen yards from our fire.
"As it was possible that the thieves might have returned to the place
whence we had taken the natives, I desired the master to cross the sound
and go there, and afterwards return to meet me, while I continued the
search eastward. With a fair and fresh wind I made a good run that evening,
found a {402} passage opening to the sea,[192] and a wigwam just deserted.
Here was cause for hope; and seeing, beyond the passage, some large islands
lying to seaward of that which we had been coasting, it appeared probable
that our boat had been taken there for seal-fishing. Our prisoners had
given us to understand plainly enough that such was the object of those who
had stolen her, and outlying islands were the most likely to be visited, as
on them most seal are found.
"Next day (19th) I passed over to Gilbert Island, and in a cove found such
recent marks of natives, that I felt sure of coming up with the chase in
the course of the day. When the Fuegians stop anywhere, they generally bark
a few trees, to repair their canoes or cover their wigwams; but those whose
traces we were following, had made long journeys without stopping; and,
where they did stay, barked no trees, which was one reason for supposing
them to be the party in our boat. In the course of the day we pulled nearly
round the islands,[193] looking into every cove.
"On the 20th, we discovered three small canoes with their owners in a
cove.[194] All the men ran away, except two. As we saw that there were no
more persons than the canoes required, we did not try to catch them,
knowing that this could not be the party we were in search of. We had now
examined every nook and corner about these islands, and I began to give up
all hope of finding our boat in this direction. Having no clue to guide me
farther, and much time having been lost, I reluctantly decided to return to
the Beagle. Our only remaining hope, that the master might have met with
the boat, was but very feeble.
"(21st.) All this day we were pulling to the westward, to regain the
Beagle. At night-fall I met Mr. Murray, with the cutter, in the cove where
I had appointed a rendezvous. He had not found any signs of the boat upon
the opposite shore, and therefore returned; but he saw the people who had
escaped from us when we surprised the whole family. They fled as soon as
his boat was seen. Leaving, therefore, three men to {403} watch in the
bushes, he stood out to sea in the boat; and the stratagem succeeded
sufficiently to enable our men to get very near to the natives, but not to
catch any of them. One old man squinted very much, and in other respects
exactly answered the description of a Fuegian who ill-treated some of the
Saxe-Cobourg's crew, when they were cast away in Fury Harbour. I wish we
could have secured him; but he was always on the alert, and too nimble for
our people. In their canoe, which was taken, was found the sleeve of Mr.
Murray's tarpaulin coat, a proof that these people belonged to the tribe
which had stolen our boat. The canoe was a wretchedly patched affair,
evidently put together in a great hurry.
"Next morning (22d) the master and I set out on our return to the Beagle;
but seeing a great smoke on the opposite shore, in Thieves' Sound, I
thought it must be made by the offenders, who, having returned and found
their home desolate, were making signals to discover where their family was
gone: sending the cutter therefore on board, I pulled across the sound
towards the smoke. As the distance was long, and the wind fresh against us,
it was late before I arrived; yet the smoke rose as thickly as ever,
exciting our expectations to the utmost:--but, to our disappointment, not a
living creature could be seen near the fire, nor could any traces of
natives be found. The fire must have been kindled in the morning, and as
the weather was dry, had continued to burn all day.
"We were then just as much at a loss as ever, for probably (if that was the
party), they had seen us, and would, for the future, be doubly watchful. At
first we had a chance of coming upon them unawares, but the time for that
had passed: every canoe in the sound had been examined, and all its
inhabitants knew well what we were seeking.
"It blew too strong, and it was too late, to recross Whale-boat Sound that
night, so I ascended a height to look round. Next morning (23d) we again
searched many miles of the shores of Thieves' Sound without any success;
and afterwards sailed across to Stewart Harbour. We reached the Beagle in
the evening, but found that all the other prisoners, excepting {404} three
children, had escaped by swimming ashore during the preceding night. Thus,
after much trouble and anxiety, much valuable time lost, and as fine a boat
of her kind as ever was seen being stolen from us by these savages, I found
myself with three young children to take care of, and no prospect whatever
of recovering the boat. It was very hard work for the boats' crews, for
during the first ten days we had incessant rainy weather, with gales of
wind; and though the last few days had been uncommonly fine, the men's
exertions in pulling about among the coves, and in ascending hills, had
been extremely fatiguing.
"While the bad weather lasted, the men's clothes were seldom dry, either by
day or night. Frequently they were soaked by rain during the greater part
of the day, and at night they were in no better condition; for although a
large fire (when made) might dry one side, the other as quickly became wet.
Obliged, as we were, to pitch our small tent close to the water in order to
be near our boat;--and because every other place was either rocky or
covered with wood;--we were more than once awakened out of a sound sleep by
finding that we were lying partly in the water, the night-tide having risen
very much above that of the preceding day: although the tides should have
been at that time 'taking off' (diminishing).
"Sometimes extreme difficulty was found in lighting a fire, because every
thing was saturated with moisture; and hours have been passed in vain
attempts, while every one was shivering with cold,--having no shelter from
the pouring rain,--and after having been cramped in a small boat during the
whole day.
"In Courtenay Sound I saw many nests of shags (corvorants) among the
branches of trees near the water: until then, I had understood that those
birds usually, if not invariably, built their nests on the ground or in
cliffs.
"Much time had certainly been spent in this search, yet it ought not to be
considered as altogether lost. Mr. Stokes had been hard at work during my
absence, making plans of the harbours, and taking observations, and I am
happy to say, that {405} I had reason to place great confidence in his
work, for he had always taken the utmost pains, and had been most careful.
My wanderings had shown me that from the apparent sea coast to the base of
that snowy chain of mountains which runs eastward from the Barbara Channel,
there is much more water than land, and that a number of islands, lying
near together, form the apparently connected coast; within which a wide
sound-like passage extends, opening in places into bays and gulfs, where
islands, islets, rocks and breakers, are very numerous. These waters wash
the foot of the snowy chain which forms a continued barrier from the
Barbara Channel to the Strait of Le Maire. This cruise had also given me
more insight into the real character of the Fuegians, than I had then
acquired by other means, and gave us all a severe warning which might prove
very useful at a future day, when among more numerous tribes who would not
be contented with a boat alone. Considering the extent of coast we had
already examined, we ought to be thankful for having experienced no other
disaster of any kind, and for having had the means of replacing this loss.
"I became convinced that so long as we were ignorant of the Fuegian
language, and the natives were equally ignorant of ours, we should never
know much about them, or the interior of their country; nor would there be
the slightest chance of their being raised one step above the low place
which they then held in our estimation. Their words seemed to be short, but
to have many meanings, and their pronunciation was harsh and guttural.
"Stewart Harbour, in which the Beagle remained during the last boat cruise,
proved to be a good one, and, having three outlets, may be entered or
quitted with any wind, and without warping. Wood and water are as abundant
as in other Fuegian harbours; and it may be easily known by the remarkable
appearance of Cape Castlereagh, which is on the island that shelters the
anchorage from the S.W. wind and sea. The outlets are narrow, and can only
be passed with a leading wind; but if one does not serve, another will
answer. It should be {406} noticed, that there are two rocks nearly in the
middle of the harbour, which are just awash at high water. A heavy swell is
generally found outside, owing to the comparatively shallow water, in which
there are soundings to about three miles from the Cape. In the entrances
are from ten to twenty fathoms, therefore if the wind should baffle, or
fail, an anchor may be dropped at any moment.
"In my last search among the Gilbert Islands, I found a good harbour for
shipping, conveniently situated for carrying on the survey, in a place
which otherwise I should certainly have overlooked: and to that harbour I
decided on proceeding.
"For two miles to the eastward of Stewart Harbour, the shore projects, and
is rocky and broken, then it retreats, forming a large bay, in which are
the Gilbert Islands, and many rocky islets. We passed between Gilbert and
Stewart Islands, anchored at noon under a point at the west entrance of the
passage, and in the afternoon moved the Beagle to Doris Cove, and there
moored her.
"I had decided to build another boat as quickly as possible, for I found it
so much the best way to anchor the vessel in a safe place and then work
with the boats on each side, that another good one was most necessary. Our
cutter required too many men, and was neither so handy, nor could she pull
to windward so well as a whale-boat; and our small boat was only fit for
harbour duty. The weather on this coast was generally so thick and blowing,
as not to admit of any thing like exact surveying while the vessel was
under sail: the swell alone being usually too high to allow of a bearing
being taken within six or eight degrees: and the sun we seldom saw. If
caught by one of the very frequent gales, we might have been blown so far
to the eastward that I know not how much time would have been lost in
trying to regain our position. These coasts, which are composed of islands,
allow boats to go a long distance in safety, and, from the heights near the
sea, rocks and breakers may be seen, and their places ascertained, much
better than can possibly be done at sea. For building a new boat we had all
the materials on board, except prepared plank; and for this we cut up a
spare spar, which was intended to supply the place of a defective or
injured lower mast or bowsprit. With reluctance this fine spar, which had
been the Doris's main-topmast, was condemned to the teeth of the saw; but I
felt certain that the boat Mr. May would produce from it, would be valuable
in any part of the world, and that for our voyage it was indispensable.
[Illustration: CAPE HORN.]
[Illustration: CAPE HORN.]
[Illustration: CAPE SPENCER AND CAPE HORN.]
[Illustration: ST FRANCIS BAY AND ENTRANCE OF ST MARTIN COVE.
([Two birds] Kater Peak)]
[Illustration: YORK MINSTER.]
[Illustration: FALSE CAPE HORN.]
[Illustration: CAPE NOIR.]
[Illustration: CAPE NOIR.]
[Illustration: W. W. Wilson S. Bull
SOUTH WEST OPENING OF COCKBURN CHANNEL.
([One bird] Mount Skyring)
Published by Henry Colburn, Great Marlborough Street, 1838]
{407}
"Profiting by a clear day, I went to a height in the neighbourhood, whence
I could see to a great distance in-shore, as well as along the coast, and
got a view of Mount Sarmiento. While away from the Beagle, in search of the
lost boat, we had enjoyed four succeeding days of fine weather, during
which that noble mountain had been often seen by our party. The
astronomical bearing of its summit was very useful in connecting this coast
survey with that of the Strait of Magalhaens.
"25th and 26th. Mr. Murray went to the S.W. part of the island, taking
three days' provisions. Mr. Stokes and I were employed near the ship, while
every man who could use carpenter's tools was occupied in preparing
materials for our new boat. The rock near here is greenstone, in which are
many veins of pyrites. Specimens are deposited in the museum of the
Geological Society.
"28th. Weighed, warped to windward, and made sail out of Adventure Passage.
I was very anxious to reach Christmas Sound, because it seemed to me a good
situation for the Beagle, while the boats could go east and west of her,
and the new boat might be built. Running along the land, before a fresh
breeze, we soon saw York Minster, and in the evening entered Christmas
Sound, and anchored in the very spot where the Adventure lay when Cook was
here. His sketch of the sound, and description of York Minster, are very
good, and quite enough to guide a ship to the anchoring place. I fancied
that the high part of the Minster must have crumbled away since he saw it,
as it no longer resembled 'two towers,' but had a ragged, notched summit,
when seen from the westward. It was some satisfaction to find ourselves at
anchor at this spot in {408} February, notwithstanding the vexatious delays
we had so often experienced.
"As we had not sufficiently examined the coast between this sound and
Gilbert Islands, I proposed sending Mr. Murray there with the cutter, while
I should go to the eastward, during which time our new boat would be
finished.
"1st March. This morning I went to look for a better anchorage for our
vessel, that in which we lay being rather exposed, and very small. Neither
Pickersgill Cove nor Port Clerke suited; so I looked further, and found
another harbour, nearer to York Minster, easier of access for a ship
arriving from sea, and with a cove in one corner where a vessel could lie
in security, close to a woody point. Having sounded this harbour, I
returned to move our ship. Cook says, speaking of Port Clerke, 'South of
this inlet is another, which I did not examine:'--and into that inlet,
named March Harbour, the Beagle prepared to go, but before we could weigh
and work to windward, the weather became bad, which made our passage round
the N.W. end of Shag Island rather difficult, as we had to contend with
squalls, rain, and a narrow passage between rocks. The passage between
Waterman Island and the south end of Shag Island is more roomy; but there
is a rock near the middle which had not then been examined. We worked up to
the innermost part of the harbour, and moored close to a woody point, in
the most sheltered cove. Finding this to be a very convenient spot for
building our boat, and in every point of view a good place for passing part
of the month of March, I decided to keep the Beagle here for that purpose.
This harbour might be useful to other vessels, its situation being well
pointed out by York Minster (one of the most remarkable promontories on the
coast), and affording wood and water with as little trouble as any place in
which the Beagle had anchored.
"March 2d. The master set out in the large cutter, with a fortnight's
provisions, to examine the coast between the north part of Christmas Sound
and Point Alikhoolip, near which we passed on the 28th, without seeing much
of it. With {409} moderate weather and a little sunshine, he might have
been expected to return in a week or ten days. He carried a chronometer and
other necessary instruments. Two of the three children, left by their
mother at Stewart Harbour, I sent with Mr. Murray, to be left with any
Fuegians he might find most to the westward, whence they would soon find
their friends. The third, who was about eight years old, was still with us:
she seemed to be so happy and healthy, that I determined to detain her as a
hostage for the stolen boat, and try to teach her English. Lieutenant Kempe
built a temporary house for the carpenters, and other workmen, near the
ship and the spot chosen for observations, so that all our little
establishment was close together. The greater part of the boat's materials
being already prepared, she was not expected to be long in building, under
the able direction and assistance of Mr. May.
"3d. Some Fuegians in a canoe approached us this morning, seeming anxious
to come on board. I had no wish for their company, and was sorry to see
that they had found us out; for it was to be expected that they would soon
pay us nightly as well as daily visits, and steal every thing left within
their reach. Having made signs for them to leave us, without effect, I sent
Mr. Wilson to drive them away, and fire a pistol over their heads, to
frighten them. They then went back, but only round a point of land near the
ship; so I sent the boat again to drive them out of the harbour, and deter
them from paying us another visit. Reflecting, while Mr. Wilson was
following them, that by getting one of these natives on board, there would
be a chance of his learning enough English to be an interpreter, and that
by his means we might recover our lost boat, I resolved to take the
youngest man on board, as he, in all probability, had less strong ties to
bind him to his people than others who were older, and might have families.
With these ideas I went after them, and hauling their canoe alongside of my
boat, told a young man to come into it; he did so, quite unconcernedly, and
sat down, apparently contented and at his ease. The others said nothing,
either to me or to him, but paddled out of the harbour as fast as they
could. {410} They seemed to belong to the same tribe as those we had last
seen.
"4th. This afternoon our boat's keel was laid down, and her moulds were set
up. Fuegia Basket[195] told 'York Minster'[196] all her story; at some
parts of which he laughed heartily. Fuegia, cleaned and dressed, was much
improved in appearance: she was already a pet on the lower deck, and
appeared to be quite contented. York Minster was sullen at first, yet his
appetite did not fail; and whatever he received more than he could eat, he
stowed away in a corner; but as soon as he was well cleaned and clothed,
and allowed to go about where he liked in the vessel, he became much more
cheerful.
"At Cape Castlereagh and the heights over Doris Cove in Gilbert Island, the
rock seemed to contain so much metal, that I spent the greater part of one
day in trying experiments on pieces of it, with a blowpipe and mercury. By
pounding and washing I separated about a tea-spoonful of metal from a piece
of rock (taken at random) the size of a small cup. I put the powder by
carefully, with some specimens of the rock--thinking that some of these
otherwise barren mountains might be rich in metals. It would not be in
conformity with most other parts of the world were the tract of mountainous
islands composing the Archipelago of Tierra del Fuego condemned to internal
as well as external unprofitableness. From the nature of the climate
agriculture could seldom succeed; and perhaps no quadrupeds fit for man's
use, except goats and dogs, could thrive in it: externally too, the land is
unfit for the use of civilized man. In a few years its shores will be
destitute of seal: and then, what benefit will be derived from it?--unless
it prove internally rich, not in gold or silver, but perhaps in copper,
iron, or other metals.
"5th. This day all hands were put on full allowance, our savings since we
left San Carlos having secured a sufficient {411} stock of provisions to
last more than the time allotted for the remainder of our solitary cruise.
"By using substitutes for the mens' shoes, made of sealskin, we secured
enough to last as long as we should want them. I have never mentioned the
state of our sick list, because it was always so trifling. There had been
very little doing in the surgeon's department; nothing indeed of
consequence, since Mr. Murray dislocated his shoulder.
"The promontory of York Minster is a black irregularly-shaped rocky cliff,
eight hundred feet in height, rising almost perpendicularly from the sea.
It is nearly the loftiest as well as the most projecting part of the land
about Christmas Sound, which, generally speaking, is not near so high as
that further west, but it is very barren. Granite is prevalent, and I could
find no sandstone. Coming from the westward, we thought the heights about
here inconsiderable; but Cook, coming from the South Sea, called them 'high
and savage.' Had he made the land nearer the Barbara Channel, where the
mountains are much higher, he would have spoken still more strongly of the
wild and disagreeable appearance of the coast.
"6th. During the past night it blew very hard, making our vessel jerk her
cables with unusual violence, though we had a good scope out, and the water
was perfectly smooth. We saw that the best bower-anchor had been dragged
some distance, it was therefore hove to the bows when its stock was found
to be broken, by a rock, in the midst of good ground, having caught the
anchor. It had been obtained at San Carlos from a merchant brig, but being
much too light for our vessel, had been woulded round with chains to give
it weight: its place was taken by a frigate's stream-anchor, well made and
well tried, which I had procured from Valparaiso.[197] In shifting our
berth, the small bower chain was found to be so firmly fixed round another
rock that for several hours we could not clear it. Such rocks as these are
very treacherous and not easily detected, except by sweeping the bottom
with a line and weights. A very {412} heavy squall, with lightning and
thunder, passed over the ship this afternoon, depressing the sympiesometer
more than I had ever witnessed. Very heavy rain followed.
"8th. In the forenoon I was on a height taking angles, when a large smoke
was made by natives on a point at the entrance of the harbour; and at my
return on board the ship, I found that two canoes had been seen, which
appeared to be full of people. Supposing that they were strangers, I went
in a small boat with two men to see them, and find out if they possessed
any thing obtained from our lost whale-boat, for I thought it probable she
might have been taken along the coast eastward, to elude our pursuit. I
found them in a cove very near where our carpenters were at work. They had
just landed, and were breaking boughs from the trees. I was surprised to
see rather a large party, about fourteen in number, all of whom seemed to
be men, except two women who were keeping the canoes. They wanted me to go
to them, but I remained at a little distance, holding up bits of iron and
knives, to induce them to come to me, for on the water we were less unequal
to them. They were getting very bold and threatening in their manner, and I
think would have tried to seize me and my boat, had not Lieutenant Kempe
come into the cove with six men in the cutter, when their manner altered
directly, and they began to consult together. They were at this time on a
rock rising abruptly from the water, and the canoes, which I wanted to
search, were at the foot of the rock. Under such local disadvantages I
could not persevere without arms, for they had stones, slings, and spears,
ready in their hands. Lieutenant Kempe and myself then returned on board
for arms and more men, for I resolved to drive them out of the harbour, as
it was absolutely necessary. Already they, or their countrymen, had robbed
us of a boat, and endangered the lives of several persons; and had they
been allowed to remain near us, the loss of that part of another boat which
was already built would have followed, besides many things belonging to the
carpenters and armourer, which they were using daily on shore.
"Another motive for searching the canoes, arose from {413} seeing so many
men without women, for I concluded that some of the whale-boat thieves were
among them, who, having seen our cutter go to the westward full of people,
might suppose we had not many left on board: one boat's crew, as they
perhaps imagined, being left on an island, and another away in search of
them. They had hitherto seen only merchant-vessels on this coast, and
judging of the number of a crew by them, might think there could not be
many persons on board, and that the vessel would be easy to take. At all
events they came prepared for war, being much painted, wearing white bands
on their heads, carrying their slings and spears, and having left all their
children and dogs, with most of their women, in some other place.
"Two boats being manned and armed, I went with Lieut. Kempe and Mr. Wilson
to chase the Fuegians, who were paddling towards another part of the
harbour. Seeing the boats approaching, they landed and got on the top of a
rock, leaving the canoes underneath with the two women. From their manner I
saw they were disposed to be hostile, and we therefore approached
leisurely. Their canoes being within our reach, I told the bowman to haul
one alongside that we might search it; but no sooner did his boathook touch
it, than a shower of stones of all sizes came upon us, and one man was
knocked down, apparently killed, by the blow of a large stone on the
temple. We returned their volley with our fire-arms, but I believe without
hitting one of them. Stones and balls continued to be exchanged till the
cutter came to our assistance. The Fuegians then got behind a rock, where
we could not see them, and kept close. Their canoes we took, and finding in
them some bottles[198] and part of our lost boat's gear, we destroyed them.
The man of my crew who was knocked down by a stone was only stunned, and
soon recovered, but the blow was very severe and dangerous. Not choosing to
risk any further injury to our people, and seeing no object to be gained, I
would not land, though our numbers were much superior, and we had {414}
fire-arms. It appeared that the savages knew of no alternative but escape
or death, and that in trying to take them they would certainly do material
injury to some of our party with their spears, stones, or large knives made
of pieces of iron hoops. Remaining therefore with Lieut. Kempe, in the
cutter, to watch their motions, I sent my boat on board with the man who
was hurt. The Fuegians made their escape separately through the bushes, and
were quickly out of sight and reach: we fired a few shots to frighten them,
watched their retreat over the barren upper part of the hills, and then
went to look for their wigwams, which could not be far distant, as I
thought; but after unsuccessfully searching all the coves near us, a smoke
was seen at the opposite side of the sound, on one of the Whittlebury
islands; so concluding it was made by the rest of their tribe, and being
late, I returned on board.
"9th. At daylight, next morning, I went to look for the wigwams, on the
Whittlebury Islands, at the north side of the sound: we saw their smoke
when we were half-way across, but no longer. The natives had probably seen
us, and put out their fire directly, well knowing the difference between
our boat and their own canoes, and noticing her coming from a part of the
sound distant from the point whence they would expect their own people, and
crossing over against a fresh breeze, which a canoe could not attempt to
do. The wigwams were entirely deserted, and almost every thing was taken
away; but near their huts a piece of 'King's white line,' quite new, was
picked up; therefore our boat[199] had been there, or these were some of
the people who stole her. For the late inmates of the wigwams we searched
in vain--only their dogs remained, they themselves being hidden. Looking
round on the other side of that islet, we saw two canoes paddling right
away from the islands, though it was blowing a fresh breeze, and a
considerable sea was running. Knowing, from the place they were in, and
their course, that they were the fugitives from the wigwams, we gave chase,
and came up with them before {415} they could land, but so close to the
shore that while securing one canoe, the other escaped. From that which we
seized a young man and a girl jumped overboard, deserting an old woman and
a child, whom we left in order to chase the young man; but he was so active
in the water that it was fully a quarter of an hour before we could get him
into our boat. Having at last secured him, we followed the others, but they
had all landed and hidden, so we returned across the sound with our
captive. In our way a smoke was seen in a cove of Waterman Island, and
knowing that it must be made by those who escaped us yesterday, as there
were no other natives there, we made sail for it; but the rogues saw us,
and put out their fire. When we reached the spot, however, we found two
wigwams just built, and covered with bark; so that there they had passed
the night after their skirmish. I would not let any one land, as the
Fuegians might be lurking in the bushes, and might be too much for two or
three of us on shore,--but left the place. They would think us gone for
more boats, as at the former meeting, and would shift their quarters
immediately; so by thus harassing them, I hoped to be freed from any more
of their visits while we remained in the neighbourhood.
"The bodily strength of these savages is very great ('York Minster' is as
strong as any two of our stoutest men), which, with their agility, both on
shore and in the water, and their quickness in attack and defence with
stones and sticks, makes them difficult to deal with when out of their
canoes. They are a brave, hardy race, and fight to the last struggle;
though in the manner of a wild beast, it must be owned, else they would
not, when excited, defy a whole boat's crew, and, single-handed, try to
kill the men; as I have witnessed. That kindness towards these beings, and
good treatment of them, is as yet useless, I almost think, both from my own
experience and from much that I have heard of their conduct to sealing
vessels. Until a mutual understanding can be established, moral fear is the
only means by which they can be kept peaceable. As they see only vessels
which when their boats are away have {416} but a few people on board, their
idea of the power of Europeans is very poor, and their dread of fire arms
not nearly so great as might be imagined.
"From this cove we returned to the Beagle. My Fuegian captive, whom I named
'Boat Memory,' seemed frightened, but not low-spirited; he eat enormously,
and soon fell fast asleep. The meeting between him and York Minster was
very tame, for, at first, they would not appear to recognise or speak to
each other. 'Boat' was the best-featured Fuegian I had seen, and being
young and well made, was a very favourable specimen of the race: 'York' was
one of the stoutest men I had observed among them; but little Fuegia was
almost as broad as she was high: she seemed to be so merry and happy, that
I do not think she would willingly have quitted us. Three natives of Tierra
del Fuego, better suited for the purpose of instruction, and for giving, as
well as receiving information, could not, I think, have been found.
"10th. This morning, having been well cleaned and dressed, 'Boat' appeared
contented and easy; and being together, kept York and him in better spirits
than they would probably otherwise have been, for they laughed, and tried
to talk, by imitating whatever was said. Fuegia soon began to learn
English, and to say several things very well. She laughed and talked with
her countrymen incessantly.
"12th. Some evenings, at dusk, I observed large flights of birds, of the
petrel kind, skimming over the sea (like swallows), as if in chase of
insects. These birds were black, about the size of a 'Cape Pigeon.' We
tried to shoot one, but did not succeed."
* * * * *
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