Beagle sails from San Carlos--Enter Strait--Harbour of Mercy--Cape
Pillar--Apostles--Judges--Landfall Island--Cape Gloucester--Dislocation
Harbour--Week Islands--Fuegians--Latitude Bay--Boat's crew in distress--
Petrel--Passages--Otway Bay--Cape Tate--Fincham Islands--Deepwater
Sound--Breaker Bay--Grafton Islands--Geological remarks--Barbara
Channel--Mount Skyring--Compasses affected--Drawings--Provisions--
Opportunities lost.
Captain Fitz Roy having received his orders on the 18th of November (see
Appendix), sailed the following morning from San Carlos, and proceeding to
the southward, approached the entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens on the
night of the 24th. The following are extracts from his Journal:--
"At daylight on the 25th, with the wind at S.W., we made Cape Pillar right
a-head (E.N.E. by compass), distant seven or eight leagues. The wind became
lighter, and we were set by a current to the S.W., which obliged us, in
nearing the Cape, to alter our course from E.N.E. to N.N.E., to avoid being
carried too near the Apostle Rocks. A dangerous rock, under water, on which
the sea breaks, lies half a mile more towards the north than either of the
Apostles. Cape Pillar is a detached headland, and so very remarkable that
no person can fail to know it easily.
"A very good latitude was obtained at noon, from which, and the
astronomical bearing of the Cape, we made its latitude within half a mile
of that given in the chart by Captain Stokes and Lieutenant Skyring; and
the weather being clear and fine, sketches were taken of all the
surrounding land. At one, we passed the Cape, and at three, anchored in the
Harbour of Mercy. By the distance we had run, as shown by the patent log
and compared with the chart, there had been a current against us of more
than a knot an hour.
{361}
"In working into the harbour we passed over several patches of kelp, under
which the bottom was plainly visible; but the lead never showed less than
five fathoms, until we were about to anchor, when the vessel shot a-head
into a weedy place, where we had three fathoms. This was about a cable's
length in-shore (towards the highest mountain) of the spot marked by
Lieutenant Skyring as good holding ground, to which we warped and anchored.
It proved to be very good ground, being extremely tough clay.
"27th. A promising morning tempted me to try to obtain observations and a
round of angles on or near Cape Pillar. I therefore left the ship with the
master, and went in a boat to the Cape. To land near it in much swell was
not easy upon such steep and slippery rocks: at last we got ashore in a
cove, and hauled the instruments up the rocks by lines, but could get no
further, on account of precipices. I, therefore, gave up that attempt, and
went outside the Cape, to look for a better place; but every part seemed
similar, and, as the weather was getting foggy, it was useless to
persevere. In going to the Cape, and in returning, I measured the distance
by a patent log, and found the mean of the two measurements agree with the
chart. What current there was, ran to the westward.
"A small ox, which we had carried from Chiloe, was doomed to end his voyage
at this place, and probably we were the first people who ever eat fresh
beef in the Strait of Magalhaens.
"28th and 29th. Gloomy days, with much wind and rain; and the gusts coming
so violently over the mountains, that we were unable to do any work, out of
the ship.
"30th. Still blowing and raining.
"Dec. 1st and 2d. Cloudy days, with strong wind; but one short interval of
sunshine was gladly made use of for rating our chronometers.
"3d. This morning we weighed, and worked out; and at one P.M. we were three
miles westward of Cape Pillar, with every appearance of a N.W. gale.
Shortly after, the weather became so thick, that I could not see any part
of the coast; and therefore stood off shore, under low sail, expecting a
bad {362} night. Contrary to my expectation, the wind did not much
increase; but the thick weather, and a heavy swell, induced me to stand
farther out than I had at first intended. At eleven, P.M., we wore and
stood in until daylight on the 4th, when we found ourselves so much to the
southward, that the land about Cape Pillar bore N.b.W., the Cape itself
being shut in. We steered for the land, hoping to turn the day to some
account; but those hopes soon ceased, for before we had run sufficient
distance to make a serviceable base line, the weather became so thick as to
oblige us to haul our wind. We saw just enough to make out a number of
rocks and breakers, lying at a considerable distance off shore. After noon
it was clearer, and we again stood in-shore; but found that the current was
setting us so fast to the southward, that it was necessary to carry all
sail and keep on a wind, to avoid losing ground; yet, with a fresh,
double-reefed topsail breeze and a deeply laden weatherly vessel, we could
not hold our own, and at seven in the evening were close to an islet which
lies off Cape Sunday. We had seen very little of the coast thus far: the
current had rendered the patent log useless for measuring bases, and the
weather was very unfavourable for astronomical observations. The land
appeared to be high and mountainous, as far as Cape Deseado, whence it
seemed lower and more broken, forming a large bay between that cape and
Cape Sunday. Many rocks on which the sea breaks violently lie at a distance
from the shore, besides those two clusters called the 'Apostles' and the
'Judges:' the latter off Cape Deseado, and the former off Apostle Point, a
little south of Cape Pillar.
"5th. To our mortification, we found ourselves a great way off shore; and
Landfall Island, which was eight miles to leeward the last evening, was now
in the wind's eye, at a distance of about six leagues. A strong wind, with
much swell, prevented our regaining lost ground in a northerly direction, I
therefore preferred standing to the S.E. by the wind, intending to seek for
a harbour, as it seemed hopeless to try to survey this coast while under
sail, with such obstacles to contend against as a current setting about a
mile an hour, and a sky {363} generally clouded over. Our only chance
appeared to be, going from harbour to harbour and keeping close in-shore.
"Behind Landfall Island the coast forms a deep bay, apparently full of
islands, and it is said there is in that part a communication with the
Strait of Magalhaens. Looking from seaward there seems to be an opening.
"From the southern point of this bay the coast presents a high and regular
line for a few miles, and then there is a succession of islets, rocks, and
broken land. We stood in close to the breakers, but too late in the evening
to find an anchorage. I observed kelp on the surface of the water, growing
up from the bottom, while the lead gave a depth of forty-five fathoms. This
was in a wild-looking, open bight, full of rocks and breakers, and much
exposed.
"We stood off, close to the wind, hoping to make northing and westing
during the night; but at midnight it fell calm, and at day-break on the
6th, to our astonishment, we found ourselves to the southward of Cape
Gloucester, a high, remarkable promontory, standing out from the land as if
it were an island, with a peaked top, which, from the southward, appears
notched. The day proved very fine, and as a breeze sprung up from the S.E.
and gradually increased, I had hopes of seeing more of the coast, along
which we had been hustled so fast, and so much against our inclination.
"In running along shore, I noticed several inlets that seemed likely to
afford good harbours. This coast has not, by any means, such a rugged and
harsh appearance as I expected; but the number of islets and breakers is
quite enough to give it a most dangerous character. The land is not very
high near the sea, and seems to be wooded wherever the prevailing winds
will allow trees to grow. Soundings were taken at various distances within
four miles of the shore, and the depth generally was between twenty and one
hundred fathoms. A good idea may be formed of the current which had taken
us to the S.E., when I say that, even with a fresh and fair wind, it
occupied us the whole of the 6th to regain the place we had left the
previous evening.
{364}
"7th. At daylight it blew half a gale of wind; but we stood in, a little
south of the cluster of rocks, called the Judges, towards a part of the
shore which promised to afford a harbour. On closing it we saw an inlet,
apparently large; but so fortified at the entrance by rocks and breakers,
that I did not like to run in, without first sending a boat; yet it blew
too strong, and there was too much sea, to lower one; therefore I stood off
to wait for more moderate weather, for the place suited my purpose exactly,
being near enough to the Judges, and Apostles, to fix their situation. This
morning, Mr. Murray slipped across the forecastle and dislocated his
shoulder: an accident which deprived us of his services for some time, and
on account of it, we called the place where we anchored soon afterwards,
Dislocation Harbour. So many rocks lie off this coast, that a vessel ought
not to approach it unless she has daylight and clear weather. The lead will
give warning, should the weather be thick, as soundings extend at least to
four miles off shore, at which distance there are from thirty to one
hundred fathoms, and generally speaking, there is less water as you
approach the land.
"On the 8th, 9th, and 10th, we were busily occupied in surveying the
harbour and adjacent coast. In this place water may be obtained very
easily, as boats can lie in a fresh water stream which runs from the
mountains. Wood is also plentiful. The harbour is large enough for four
small vessels, and the bottom is very even, from fifteen to twenty-five
fathoms, fine white sand. The entrance is narrow, but all dangers are
visible, and now are laid down in the chart. It is much exposed to west
winds, and the westerly swell, which might for weeks together prevent a
vessel from getting out to sea.
"11th. A strong wind and much haziness prevented my weighing until near
noon, when it became more moderate, though the weather was still thick. We
then worked out with a light and variable breeze, which baffled us near the
entrance, but at last we gained a good offing. I rejoiced to be outside,
for our business in the harbour was over, and I had feared that west winds
would detain us. The promontory, just to the southward of Dislocation
Harbour, appeared to me to be 'Cape {365} Deseado,' and that to the
northward I called Chancery Point. Mr. Wilson ascended some heights at the
back of the harbour, from which he saw many lakes, among barren and rugged
hills; but a farther view was obstructed by other mountains.
"An oar was picked up near the watering place, and recognised by one of the
men as the same which was left on a rock near Cape Pillar (in Observation
Cove) by Captain Stokes, in January 1827. There could be no doubt of the
fact, as the man's initials were on the oar, and it is curious as a proof
of an outset along the south side of the Strait (near Cape Pillar), and of
its continuation along shore. Traces of a fire were found, which showed
that the natives visit even this most exposed part of the coast. The land
about here is high, and craggy; and very barren, except in the valleys,
where much wood grows. Some wild fowl were seen and shot.
"From Cape Deseado, the coast is high and unbroken for three miles; (a
rocky islet lies about a mile from the shore) then there is an opening
which probably leads into a good harbour behind a number of islands.
Several islands succeed, for a space of two miles, after which is Barrister
Bay; an exposed place, full of islets, rocks, and breakers, extending
nearly to Murray Passage. In sailing along this coast we passed inside of
several breakers; and, I hope, noted all that lie in the offing: but, we
cannot be sure, for breakers on rocks which are under the surface of the
sea do not always show themselves. As it was getting dark, we hauled to the
wind, near Cape Sunday, and, in doing so, were startled by a huge breaker
which suddenly foamed up at a small ship's length from us. Although looking
out on all sides we had not previously seen any break near that spot.
During the night we carried a heavy press of sail to avoid being drifted to
the S.E., and at daylight I rejoiced to find that we had not lost ground,
so we steered for the land, and rounded Graves' Island. Observing several
openings, I hauled close round a point, and tried to enter one of them; the
wind, however, baffled us, and our anchor was let go in an exposed berth,
but on good holding ground. We found a cluster of islands with so many
anchorages between {366} them, that thinking they ought to be surveyed, I
returned on board, weighed, and worked towards the nearest opening. We shot
into it, and warped to a berth four cables' lengths up a narrow passage,
and anchored in twenty-four fathoms, upon sand and clayey mud.
"13th. Many wigwams were found in this neighbourhood, which showed that our
Fuegian acquaintances were occasional visitors. The inner harbour seemed to
be a fine basin; but the bottom was found inferior to that of the anchorage
at which the Beagle lay moored.
"15th. Strong wind and frequent rain prevented much being done out of the
ship this day. I went to the top of a mountain near the ship, but could not
take many angles because of the violent squalls and the rain. At night it
blew a hard gale: the squalls came furiously over the heights, and obliged
us to let go a third anchor and strike topmasts. We were quite sheltered
from the true wind; but were reached most effectually by the williwaws,
which came down with great force. However vexed we might have been at not
being able to go far from the ship, we were certainly very fortunate in
escaping this gale at a secure anchorage. It appeared to be blowing very
heavily at sea.
"16th. A strong gale all day, with much rain, prevented our leaving the
ship. In coming down a height on the 15th, I found some red porphyry rock,
like that about Port Desire; and the first I had seen in these parts.
Another novelty was a tract of about two acres of pure white sand thinly
covered with grass.
"Though the middle of summer, the weather was not much warmer than in
winter. The average height of the thermometer was about ten degrees
greater; being nearly the same, as during the months of August and
September, in Chiloe.
"17th. A continuance of bad weather: no work was done in the boats this
day. In the afternoon I tried to go up the mountain I had ascended on
Tuesday, to bring down a theodolite which I had left at the top; but the
wind obliged me to return unsuccessful.
"18th. Similar weather continued until noon: frequent strong {367} squalls,
and rain: the sky being so constantly overcast that we saw neither sun nor
stars. Although no progress was made in this weather, it was some
satisfaction to think that we lost nothing but time; and that we saved much
wear of the vessel by lying at anchor instead of being at sea. Being more
moderate in the afternoon, our boats went away, and the ship was prepared
for sailing. We tried to get some fur-seal, which were seen on a rock near
the harbour, but they were too wary.
"My boat was almost capsized by a 'blind breaker,' which rose suddenly
underneath her, and in an instant she was surrounded by and floated upon a
white wave of foam, which broke all round and over, but without upsetting
or swamping her.
"19th. Weighed and ran across to an anchorage in Landfall Island which I
had seen from the heights. We anchored in a sheltered bay lying on the
north side of the larger island, at the east opening of a passage which
separates it from the smaller. These islands are high and, towards the sea,
barren; but the sides of the hills, towards the east, are thickly wooded.
"A large smoke made near the bay showed us, that the Fuegians were in
possession of our intended quarters; and soon after we anchored, a canoe
came off to us full of men, women, and children, sixteen in all. They were
in every respect similar to those we had so frequently met before; and from
their unwillingness to part with furs or skins, unless for serviceable
articles, such as knives, &c. appeared to have had dealings with Europeans:
beads and trinkets they did not value. They had, in the canoe, many eggs,
and dead birds, which they eat raw: the birds were a light blue, or
dove-coloured, petrel, about eight inches long, which goes on land for a
part of the year to lay eggs in holes in the ground. During this and the
following day, we were fortunate enough to obtain observations, and nearly
all the necessary bearings and angles.
"As yet I was pleased with the anchorage; the bottom shoaled gradually from
twenty to five fathoms (fine sand), and it was sheltered from west winds,
besides others, except north. Having obtained particularly good
observations for latitude at {368} this spot; I called it Latitude Bay. It
is remarkably easy of access, and is also easy to leave: rather rare
qualities in a Fuegian Harbour. Cape Inman being prominently situated, is a
good guide to the anchorage.
"Sunday 20th. A fine day; and, knowing its value, we turned it to account.
From a height I saw Cape Gloucester and the point of land on this (the
northern) side of it; and to the northward I could distinguish the land
about the entrance to the Strait. The Landfall Islands appeared to be the
top of a ridge of mountains lying (partly below the sea) in the same
direction as most of the neighbouring ranges. Many dangerous rocks lie off
the S.W. side; and there is no passage for a ship between the islands, for
the opening is narrow, and has only two fathoms in some places.
"21st. This morning I sent the master and Mr. Wilson[182] in a whale-boat
to the east end of the island, to make a plan of that part, and get some
angles and bearings necessary for continuing the survey.
"22d. A bad day, blowing hard and raining. The wind being from north and
N.N.W. threw in a swell; and as we were not yet sure of the quality of the
bottom, though apparently good, we struck topmasts and veered away a long
scope of cable.
"24th. The wind shifted to the S.W. and became rather more moderate, though
still squally, with much rain. It freshened again in the night, and backed
to the northward.
"Christmas-day. Blowing strong from N.N.W. with a thickly clouded sky and
heavy rain. I was very anxious to see the master return, but he could not
in such weather. I feared that his provisions would be exhausted, having
taken only enough for four days; yet they had a good tent, guns, and
ammunition.
"26th. A strong wind with thick weather and much rain throughout the whole
day. There was no possibility of sending a boat to the master, or of his
returning by water. The island being very narrow he, or some of his party,
could walk across, {369} if they were in want of provisions, so as we did
not hear from them I trusted that they had found wild fowl enough, and were
not in distress.
"27th. Rather a more moderate morning with clearer weather. We looked out
anxiously for the whale-boat, as, in such weather, she might get back to
the ship without much difficulty. Before noon Mr. Wilson and the coxswain
were seen on shore making signals to the ship; and a boat was sent
immediately to bring them on board. They were very weak and tired, having
walked across the island during the preceding afternoon and night, and
having had no food for the last two days. The master and the other four men
were said to be in a cove at the back of the island, and to have been
without provisions since the 24th, not having been able to find either
shell-fish or wild fowl.
"At the time Mr. Wilson arrived on board, I was absent taking angles and
bearings, but was soon informed of his return, and at noon left the ship
with a week's provisions for the master's party and my own boat's crew. I
had not lost sight of the Beagle when I met the former returning. Having
given them some food, and two fresh hands to help them in pulling to the
ship (it being then quite moderate and fine) I continued my course to the
place they had left, in order to do what the bad weather had prevented the
master from doing. Being favoured with a fine afternoon I succeeded in
obtaining the necessary angles and bearings, and returned to our vessel the
following morning.
"28th. At my return I found the master and his party nearly recovered. They
had tried every day to return to the ship, but had been repeatedly forced
back, at the risk of being driven out to sea. The gusts of wind from off
the high land were so powerful as almost to upset the boat, although she
had not even a mast up. Continual rain had wetted their ammunition and
tinder, and they were then without fire or victuals: upon which Mr. Wilson
and the coxswain set out, on Saturday afternoon, to acquaint us with their
situation.
"When they came down to the sea-side the Fuegians took {370} advantage of
their weak state to beat the coxswain and take away some of his clothes;
therefore after my return I went in search of them. They had however taken
the alarm, and were all gone away. This party consisted of about twenty
persons, eight of whom were men, and the rest women and children. When some
of our officers went to their wigwams they appeared armed with clubs,
spears, and swords, which seemed to have been made out of iron hoops, or
else were old cutlasses worn very thin by frequent cleaning. They must have
obtained these, and many trifles we noticed, from sealing vessels. By the
visits of those vessels, I suppose, they have been taught to hide their
furs and other skins, and have learned the effects of fire-arms. The chief
part of their subsistence on this island appeared to be penguins, seal,
young birds, and petrel which they take in a curious way. Having caught a
small bird they tie a string to its leg and put it into a hole where blue
petrels lay eggs. Several old birds instantly fasten upon the intruder, and
are drawn out with him by the string.
"We weighed and worked out of the bay, increasing our depth of water very
gradually as we left the shore, but having always the same bottom, fine
speckled sand. I can safely recommend this bay as a good anchorage for
shipping, and two cable's lengths N.N.W. of the Beagle's berth as the best
place. Wood and water are not to be found so close to the anchorage as in
other Fuegian harbours, but they may be obtained with very little trouble,
and in any quantity, by going up the passage (between the islands) to one
of many streams which run from the high land. There is plenty of water also
very near the best berth, on the south side, but frequently a surf breaks
on that beach. Two particular advantages which this roadstead[183]
possesses, consist in the ease with which a vessel can enter or leave it,
during any wind; and in its situation being well pointed out by a
remarkable headland, named Cape Inman (in compliment to the Professor),
which is high, with perpendicular cliffs, and almost detached from other
land; so that a vessel, {371} knowing her latitude within five miles of the
truth, cannot fail to make it out, if the weather is tolerably clear. Wild
fowl and shell-fish were very scarce there, probably because the Fuegians
had scared or consumed them. From the top of a mountain, at the east end of
the large island, I saw a great way down two channels or openings, which
appeared to run far to the eastward, among many islands and very broken
land. Such a succession of islets, rocks, and breakers, as the coast
presented, was astonishing: many hundreds were counted while looking
eastward from one station only.
"I wished much to know where these openings led, and whether there was a
direct communication through them to the Strait, as seemed almost certain;
but considering the time already spent, the extent of coast to be surveyed,
and the small advantage of such information, except to satisfy curiosity, I
determined to proceed to the next prominent headland, a mountain at the
S.E. extremity of Otway Bay, whose position I had already fixed with
respect to stations on Landfall Island.
"If there is a passage through those openings into Otway Bay, it must be
unfit for vessels, being hampered with outlying rocks and breakers among
which she could find no shelter in the event of rainy weather coming on
before she cleared them; and clouds and rain are prevalent. As yet we had
been extremely fortunate, in being under sail at intervals of fine weather,
and anchored during the gales; but this was partly owing to a very careful
attention to the barometer and sympiesometer.
"Having left Latitude Bay, we stood off until midnight, and then in shore
again, carrying a press of sail all the time, in order to 'hold our own'
against our old enemy, the current.
"At daylight (29th), not having been swept to leeward by the current, we
were in a good position for continuing the survey from the place left the
previous night. We bore up as soon as the land could be distinctly
seen,--rounded Landfall Island very near the outer rocks, and then steered
for Cape Tate (the extremity of the mountain I mentioned yesterday). Those
outlying rocks are not very dangerous, as the sea {372} always breaks
violently upon them. In crossing Otway Bay, the morning being clear, I was
enabled to add considerably to what had been already learned respecting the
shores and dangers around it.(e)
"Off Cape Tate, to the north and west, lie the College Rocks. Those nearest
the Cape are also nearest the track of a ship running along the land, and
half a mile west of them lies a detached and dangerous rock, under water.
The sea generally breaks on it.
"We had very thick weather when close to those rocks, which obliged us to
'haul our wind' for half an hour; when, as it cleared, we steered round
Cape Tate, about a mile off shore. I was in hopes of gaining an anchorage
between it and the Fincham Islands, and therefore kept as near the land as
I could; but seeing numerous breakers a-head and outside of me, I altered
our course, and steered to go outside of all the rocks. After we had passed
some of them, a large bight opened out to the north-eastward, and tempted
me to haul up for it. We entered the sound at noon, and stood on for nearly
four miles without finding an anchorage, or even gaining bottom with fifty
fathoms of line, although at the entrance we had from twenty to ten
fathoms. Thick weather coming on, made me very anxious to anchor somewhere,
and we were now too much hampered to stand out again. We appeared to be
among a multitude of islands, very near each other, yet without any
anchorage between them; therefore, having no other resource, we let go both
anchors upon the end of a steep-sided islet, where one fell into seven, the
other into ten fathoms water, and hooked the rocks. Veering half a cable on
each, we found forty fathoms under the stern, with a similar rocky bottom;
so that we had the pleasant prospect of shouldering both our anchors, and
drifting into deep water, with the first strong squall. During the
remainder of that day, our boats were looking for better anchorage, but
without success; they found patches of rocky {373} ground with from ten to
twenty fathoms here and there, but not one that could be preferred to our
islet.
"30th. One Fuegian family was found here, consisting of a man and woman,
with their children. During this day it rained too hard for anything to be
done out of the ship; the wind was moderate; yet much as I disliked our
rocky berth, it could not be changed.
"31st. Moderate wind, with clearer weather. Mr. Murray and Mr. Stokes went
away to different parts of the sound, while I was employed near the ship.
Observations for latitude, longitude, and variation were made.
"1st January. During part of the last night and this morning, the wind blew
strongly in squalls, and made me very anxious; but the weather rendered it
impossible to move voluntarily, for it was raining hard as well as blowing.
At about eight it cleared, and the wind shifted to the southward, when we
weighed, and worked down the sound; but it was after noon before we had
cleared its entrance, and seven in the evening before we were outside of
all the breakers, the wind having been light and contrary the whole time.
"(2d.) At five this morning, being close to the Fincham Islands, with clear
weather, and a fresh breeze from the N.W., we steered into Breaker Bay,
towards a ragged-looking projecting point. Having approached as near as we
could, and sounded, and taken angles, we steered so as to pass outside of
some very outlying rocks, near the middle of the bay; for in-shore of them,
I saw from the mast-head numerous breakers, rocks, and islets, in every
direction. A worse place for a ship could scarcely be found; for, supposing
thick weather to come on when in the depth of the bay, she would have
lurking rocks and islets just awash with the water, on all sides of her,
and no guide to take her clear of them, for soundings would be useless; and
in such weather, the best chart that could be constructed would not help
her. With this idea of the place, and for reasons similar to those which
induced me to pass hastily across Otway Bay, I steered for Cape Gloucester,
after passing the Midbay Rocks, at the distance of a quarter of a {374}
mile. The land at the bottom of the bay appeared to be distant, and much
broken. Indeed, from the Week Islands to Cape Gloucester,(f) there is an
almost innumerable succession of islands and rocks, without any continued
tract of land, so that channels might be found in all directions; valuable,
no doubt, to Fuegians in their canoes, but not often to seamen in ships,
nor even to sealers; for where the natives go with their canoes, seals are
never found in any numbers.
"In crossing Breaker Bay, even with a moderate wind, there was a very cross
and awkward sea, owing, doubtless, to the ocean swell rolling into this
deep bight. Such a swell would add much to the difficulty which vessels
might find in getting out of this bay: I should therefore recommend them to
avoid it particularly. Cape Gloucester is a most remarkable promontory,
which can never be mistaken, after seeing even an indifferent sketch of it.
At a distance it makes like a mountain rising out of the sea, but, on
approaching nearer to it, a narrow neck of land appears.
"We found from twenty to thirty fathoms water, at the distance of a mile
from the cape; and saw several outlying breakers about half a mile off
shore. From the steep and rocky nature of these coasts one would not expect
to find soundings until close to the land: but on every outer part of this
coast, that we have visited, the bottom may be reached with the sounding
line. Some natives were seen under the cape, who made a large fire. We
stood into two bights, looking for anchorage, but, finding only rocks and
breakers, steered along shore, rounded Ipswich Island, and hauled into a
spacious bay, at the northern side of which there appeared to be several
openings like harbours. In working across, we were agreeably surprised to
find it a continued roadstead, open only towards the S.E., and having
regular soundings, from twenty to fourteen fathoms. We anchored about a
mile from the entrance of what seemed to be a harbour, at the N.W. corner,
having worked up against a fresh N.W. wind. Our anchor was dropped in
sixteen fathoms, and held well. I went directly to {375} look at the
opening, and found a passage, in which were good soundings, leading into a
very snug basin, perfectly sheltered from wind and sea, in which the bottom
was composed of sand and clay, and the depth of water from five to fifteen
fathoms. As soon as I returned we weighed and worked up to the entrance of
the basin; then anchored, warped into it, and moored with half a cable each
way.
"This was the most secure and sheltered cove I had yet seen. It was called
Laura Basin; and the bay we had crossed was named Euston Bay. I was very
glad to discover so safe a place, because it enabled me to ascertain the
position of Cape Gloucester and the neighbouring land, with the correctness
which so prominent a place required, and because I hoped that it would
prove useful as a harbour for vessels. From the top of a high ridge
surrounding the basin, I thought Cape Gloucester seemed to be about seven
miles off, and seeing a valley lead some distance in the desired direction,
determined to go to it overland. I was so much pleased with the bay and the
basin, that I did not hesitate to spend some time in the examination of
their vicinity. The mountains hitherto examined between Cape Pillar and
these (the Grafton) islands, consist of greenstone, slate, or sandstone
(excepting those near Deep-water Sound, which are of very coarse-grained
whitish granite); and from the continual action of such heavy seas as break
on those shores, the sandstone and slate rocks wear away, and by their
detritus not only the bottoms of harbours are covered, but a bank is formed
which extends into the offing. A moderate depth of water and good
anchorages were found near slaty or sandstone hills, but exactly the
reverse in the vicinity of granite.(g)
"4th. Early this morning I sent Mr. Murray in a whale-boat to examine and
plan some openings I had noticed on the north side of Euston Bay; and Mr.
Stokes to make a plan of the harbour, and the basin in which we were lying.
The master carried six days' provisions with him, in case he should be
detained, as on a former occasion, by bad weather. No place {376} could be
more convenient than this for such purposes as wooding and watering; and we
took advantage of it to the utmost by filling the ship's hold. The water
casks were filled in our boat, in perfectly smooth water, and the wood was
cut close to the water side.
"6th. A party of twelve, consisting of the Purser, Mr. W. Wilson, Mr.
Megget, eight seamen and myself, set out from the ship, intending to walk
to Cape Gloucester. We landed in a valley at the N.W. corner of the harbour
and began our march, two men carrying the tent, and the others our
instruments and provisions: we had arms also, in case of meeting Indians.
Difficult travelling, with such a cargo, very soon obliged us to stop and
rest, but by continual changes with the heaviest loads, and great exertion
on the part of those who carried them, we got over two-thirds of our
journey in the course of the day, and at night pitched our tent, and defied
the rain which poured incessantly until seven the following morning: when
every height was covered with snow, as if it had been the middle of winter.
"7th. As soon as we had breakfasted we moved on again, and at noon reached
the foot of a mountain which forms the Cape. Leaving the others to pitch
our tent and cook some victuals, Mr. Wilson, Mr. Megget, and two seamen,
ascended the mountain with me. A very severe task we had, but at last
gained the highest pinnacle, where there was just room to place the
theodolite and kneel by it, at the risk of a puff of wind canting us over
either side. A stone moved from its place, would have reached the water as
soon from one side as from the other. It was not a very clear day, but
sufficiently so to enable me to gain the desired angles and bearings. From
this summit I had a clear view of that dangerous place Breaker Bay, and was
more confirmed in the idea I had formed of it, and rejoiced that I did not
stand farther in with the Beagle. Having thus succeeded, and buried two
memorials, one cased in tin and the other in a bottle, we filled our
pockets with pieces of the rock and returned; rather too quickly, for the
steepness of the hill assisted us more than we wished. During our absence
some Fuegians had appeared, who were quiet and {377} inoffensive; but they
seemed very distrustful of us, and, before sun-rise next morning, were all
gone except one man. These natives seemed to be very active and went up the
mountain in about half the time that our party required. They had two
canoes with them, but how they had reached this place by water was
puzzling, when the exposed bay they must have crossed and the prevailing
weather were considered. Perhaps they had carried their canoes overland,
being rather like the Chilote piraguas, made of boards sewed together.
"8th. We heard the voices of the Fuegians at day-break this morning; but at
four o'clock only one old man remained, who was probably left to watch us.
We began our return, rather stiff from previous days' exertions, and
looking dismally at the high rugged hills between the Beagle and ourselves.
The first ascent on our way back was the worst of all: how the men carried
their cargo so well astonished me, for with a very light load I was glad to
rest frequently. Breakfast revived us, and by taking afterwards a better
line we avoided the steepest hills and found much easier walking. While
resting at our meal the weather was so clear that I got bearings of Cape
Inman and other points more than fifty miles distant. There was very little
variety or novelty in this walk through a Fuegian island. The same kind of
scenery and the same species of plants and shrubs were found which we had
seen every where else in Tierra del Fuego. Being more or less rocky made
the only change. Of quadrupeds, excepting otters and dogs, I saw no traces,
nor do I think any were to be found. A large kind of snipe, by some called
a woodcock, and quails, of a large and, I think, peculiar species, were
often seen and shot. The latter are not by any means so well tasted as the
European quail, and their flesh is darker and coarser. At seven this
evening we were again on board the Beagle, not a little tired.
"Should any future voyager feel inclined to make a similar excursion
towards Cape Gloucester, he had better not think too lightly of his task.
"9th. Mr. Murray returned, having been into many openings between the
islands to the eastward, and having collected {378} much information. This
afternoon it blew a heavy gale, but in such a sheltered place we only felt
a few williwaws. From Mr. Murray's account it appeared that this island and
those adjoining it to the eastward are a cluster lying together, but quite
separated from the mainland, or rather the main body of islands, by a
channel opening northward into Breaker Bay, and to the southward into
Stokes Bay. They were called the Grafton Islands.
"10th. We had a heavy gale throughout this day with much rain. Bad weather,
while at a good anchorage, I did not at that time regret, as the materials
for our charts accumulated fast, and afforded no leisure time while we were
detained on board.
"11th. A favourable day allowed us to examine and sound the outer roads,
and obtain a round of angles from the western extreme of Ipswich Island,
which completed my triangulation. Landing there was dangerous, and
ascending the hill extremely difficult, on account of thick tangled
brushwood which grows about three or four feet high on every part of the
east side, and is so matted together as to be almost impenetrable. We
generally scrambled over this jungle, but sometimes crept under it.
"12th. A tolerably fine day. The sun was visible both in the morning and
afternoon; and from different summits Mr. Stokes and I took angles. The sky
being clear near the horizon gave us a wide range. Meanwhile the ship was
prepared to sail in search of a new place at which to employ our
instruments. I hoped that this basin, harbour, and roadstead, might be of
service, and therefore spared no pains about them. Eight latitudes were
obtained by sets of circum-meridional altitudes; with four different
sextants: two by Mr. Stokes, the rest by me: and as they all agreed, within
fifteen seconds, I supposed their mean to be nearly correct. The sights for
time were good, and the chronometers were going so steadily that dependence
may be placed upon the accuracy of their results. To a vessel bound round
Cape Horn and meeting with an accident, or in want of wood or water, this
place might be useful. It is very easy to find, and easy to enter or depart
from with the prevailing westerly winds.
{379}
"13th. We weighed and left the harbour, but the morning proved too hazy to
allow of our running down the coast, therefore until eight o'clock we kept
under easy sail in the roads. Being clear and moderate after that time, we
passed Leading Island, and hove-to, to watch for a breaker near it. It
broke but twice during the hour that we waited, therefore probably there is
water enough to allow any vessel to pass in safety. At ten we bore up, and
ran towards Isabella Island; my first object being to look for a place
called by sealers 'Hope Harbour,' which, from what I could learn, ought to
lie thereabouts. Its situation was not recognised by our boatswain,(h) who
had been in it when sealing on this coast; so passing close to Isabella
Island, we hauled our wind under the lee of the land, and came to an anchor
in fifteen fathoms, sheltered from north to S.W.b.S. A high peaked hill,
over the cove where I took observations, made this a suitable place for the
business of the survey. Mr. Murray went up the height, while Mr. Stokes and
I were employed near the water, till rain set in and drove us on board.
This is the easternmost of the Grafton Islands. Beyond the channel, which
separates them from the main body of islands, appeared a succession of
broken land, not very high, but reaching apparently to a distant range of
snowy mountains. The part nearest to us was a labyrinth of islets and
rocks. Towards night the wind increased much, and drew to the S.W. and
S.W.b.S. I was doubtful of our anchorage, and had the wind drawn one point
more to the southward, we should have had a heavy sea to deal with, and
must have slipped our cable.
"14th. It moderated again, and the sun showed himself enough to enable us
to get sights, and be on board in time to weigh at nine. We had reason to
think a sealing vessel had been along this coast not long before us, by the
traces our boats found in several places. Indians also had frequented these
islands, for their wigwams were found everywhere. Observations on shore
made our anchoring here of some consequence, although as a {380} safe
anchorage for other vessels, it is out of the question, being an exposed
roadstead, with many rocks, both to seaward and in-shore. A sealer might
use it, but not willingly I should think. As we ran towards the Agnes
Islands, before a strong W.N.W. wind, many rocks and breakers showed
themselves, and when we neared the islands, became numerous on each side of
us. It would have been more prudent to have kept outside all of them; but I
was anxious to find Hope Harbour, or run into the entrance of the Barbara
Channel, and anchor in the north cove of Fury Island. Having passed the
three Agnes Islands, and being nearly abreast of Cape Kempe,[184] our view
became far from agreeable, for the sea, on all sides, seemed strewed with
breakers; and how to steer so as to pass between them was perplexing. We
were at this time running free, under treble reefed topsails, with
top-gallant yards and masts on deck; the wind being strong from W.N.W., but
the weather tolerably clear. Suddenly the boatswain hailed, 'Hard-a-port, a
rock under the bows!' Round the little vessel turned, almost as fast as the
order was given; but the thrill that shot through us was happily not the
precursor of our destruction; for the supposed rock proved to be a huge
whale which had risen close to the bows, and was mistaken for the top of a
rock by the boatswain, who was looking out on the forecastle, while I was
at the mast-head, and the 'hands' were upon deck. This part of the coast,
from the Agnes Islands to Cape Schomberg, is the worst I have seen, it is
so very broken, and has so many rocks and dangerous breakers lying at a
long distance from the shore.
"At noon we were close to Fury Island; but the wind fell and prevented our
making much progress. Fury Harbour, where the Saxe Cobourg was lost, is a
wild exposed place, and, as the bottom is bad, it ought to be avoided by
all vessels: there is but one patch of good ground, and that is very small.
"Passing round Fury Island, we entered the Barbara Channel, at the entrance
to which stands Mount Skyring, a high, peaked, and most barren mountain,
visible at a great distance. {381} We all felt much additional interest in
what was then seen, on account of the late survey in the Adelaide. Cape
Schomberg and the Astrea Rock were easily known by Lieutenant Graves's
sketch. To a high mountain, which in some views very much resembled the
dome of St. Paul's, I gave that name (finding it out of the limits of
Lieutenant Skyring's survey): it lies a short distance east of Cape
Schomberg. A passage appeared to go to the eastward, passing from the
Barbara channel, northward of Cape Schomberg and St. Paul's. Light baffling
winds and an ebb-tide, of about a knot an hour, setting out of the Barbara,
detained us until six P.M., between the Magill and Fury Islands; but soon
after that hour we anchored in North Cove, a small but perfectly secure
place. By reaching this anchorage, I had the satisfaction of being enabled
to connect my work with Lieutenant Skyring's, and to take a fresh start for
the next piece of coast. Hitherto we had been extremely fortunate, both
with the ship and the boats; but such success could not be expected always.
"15th. Early this morning, Mr. Murray went in a whale-boat to the islands,
near Cape Kempe, to ascertain the situations of some reefs and islets
thereabouts, and sketch the outer coast. Mr. Stokes went in another boat to
look for Hope Harbour, and examine part of the coast. The boatswain
accompanied him, as he thought he knew his way by passages among the
islands, although he had failed to recognise the place from the offing.
"16th. Bad weather, blowing a gale of wind and raining nearly all the day.
"17th. A squally and disagreeable day; but our boats made some progress.
"18th. Some Natives came alongside for a short time. As usual, we would not
allow them to come on board, because of their being such dexterous thieves.
A man to whom the canoe appeared to belong was far better featured, and
more stoutly made, than any we had seen among the Fuegians. After bartering
some of their very valuable property they left us.
"19th. Early this morning Mr. Stokes returned: he had {382} been near
enough to Hope Harbour, to see that it was in the Grafton Islands, and was
one of the coves examined by Mr. Murray. He then returned as he had been
desired; but made very good use of his time while away, by collecting
materials for the charts. He fell in with a canoe under sail (the sail
being a seal-skin); the first instance I had then known of a Fuegian canoe
sailing. As far as Mr. Stokes could see to the northward, the land was very
broken, or rather it was a mass of islands reaching to the base of a range
of snowy mountains.
"North Cove is large enough to hold any vessel when moored; but the
passage, in and out, is too narrow and difficult for a ship of more than
three or four hundred tons, unless she uses warps. Being on the weather
side of high land, but sheltered by low islands, williwaws do not annoy
during westerly winds; but in a southerly gale I think they would be
furious.
"My next task was to ascend Mount Skyring. As there was but little snow on
it, and the ground quite clear of wood, the ascent was easy; but when at
the summit I could not see far, because of low misty clouds. I had taken
only a compass with me, intending to look round, and ascend a second time
with my usual companion, a theodolite. After taking a few bearings, I moved
the compass off its stand, and placed it on a stone; when, to my surprise,
I found the bearing of a point, I had just been looking at, altered twenty
degrees. Suspecting the cause, I put it on another stone, a few feet
distant, and found the bearing again altered many degrees. I then examined
the stones, and found there was much pyrites in them;[185] and that when
broken, or struck against one another, they smelt strongly of sulphur. The
compass was then replaced on its stand, and bearings of the same point
taken from various spots, only a few feet apart, the point being many miles
distant, and at each spot the compass gave a different bearing, and was
very dull and sluggish, although it was a good Kater's compass, with a
light card. Having thus satisfied myself of the very strong local
attraction existing, I returned to the ship, {383} intending to make no
further use of a compass in this place; and as Lieutenant Skyring might
have been deceived in his bearings from a similar cause, I hoped to procure
a round of angles, with a theodolite set to a true bearing, which might be
serviceable for his work, as well as my own. Many pieces of the stone, from
different heights, were brought down; and in most of them were traces of
metal.
"The peaked top of this mountain is a mere heap of loose stones of all
sizes. Whether the rock has been shattered in this manner by frost, by
volcanic fire, or by lightning, I cannot tell; but I should think, from its
appearance, by all three. Many of the stones are vitrified, and many are
porous, like pumice-stones, although not so light.
"20th. I again went up Mount Skyring, taking a theodolite with me; and as
the day was perfectly clear, and free from clouds, every point of land was
visible, which can at any time be seen from that summit. Mount Sarmiento
appeared in all its grandeur, towering above the other mountains to at
least twice their height, and entirely covered with snow. Having set the
theodolite to a painted post, fixed on shore near the Beagle (five miles
distant), from which I had previously obtained the exact astronomical
bearing of the spot on which the theodolite was placed; I obtained a most
satisfactory round of angles, including most of the remarkable peaks,
islands, and capes, within a range of forty miles from the mountain. The
day was so fine, that it was not cold on the height, nor was there any wind
to disturb the adjustment of the instrument.
"This business being completed, I returned on board with Mr. Wilson, who,
during the time I was on the height, made some very good sketches. Even at
this early period his drawings were becoming a valuable addition to the
gleanings of our cruise, and their number increased fast; for he took much
pains with them, and produced not only good drawings, but most accurate
delineations of the coast.
"21st. Fine weather for this climate. Mr. Murray returned in the
whale-boat, having had a successful trip.
"By shooting and fishing we obtained frequent change of {384} diet, for we
shot much wild fowl (geese, shags, and ducks), and caught fish in the kelp,
which were excellent eating. All that could be procured was regularly and
equally distributed to the different messes in turn, and an account kept in
a 'game book.' (Appendix.)
"22d. Mr. Stokes went to examine Fury Harbour, and returned late at night.
In consequence of his account of the remains of the Saxe Cobourg sealing
schooner, lost in that harbour, I sent a boat with the carpenter to collect
from it some wood and bolts which might be useful to our ship, and remained
at anchor for a day longer than I had intended.
"This day all hands were put upon two-thirds' allowance, but as it was a
measure which affected the crew much and myself not at all, I was reluctant
to give the necessary order, without first proposing the measure openly,
and giving the following reasons:--
"Having succeeded beyond expectation in the examination of the coast thus
far, and hoping to be able to continue the survey in the same manner, while
our provisions lasted, I thought it better to shorten the allowance while
all hands were well and hearty, and could obtain supplies of fish and wild
fowl, rather than at a later period, when we might be otherwise situated.
An extent of coast lay before us, and the parts particularly pointed out by
Captain King, were yet unexamined.
"24th. A tolerably fine day; I tried all the compasses on shore, in three
different places, placing them in a line to a distant mark; because in
taking bearings, for the variation of the compass, during previous days, I
had found very wide differences between the results of the same, as well as
different compasses; and they were also very sluggish; the light cards
being more so than the heavy ones. I found it impossible to reconcile their
results by change of place or position, therefore it is probable that all
the rock affected the needle; and I suspect that not only this island and
the one on which Mount Skyring is situated, but most of the islands near
are magnetic: particularly a cluster lying about a mile to seaward of the
Magill Islands, on which, I believe, Lieutenant Skyring, or some of his
party, took bearings. A boat was sent to {385} watch the tide, on the day
of new moon, at the entrance of the channel, and brought back a piece of
the rock of which the last-mentioned cluster of islets consists. It is
similar to that of Fury Island and Mount Skyring, apparently metallic, with
a sulphureous smell, when struck or broken.[186] Small pieces put near the
compass did not seem to affect it sensibly; but I did not spend time in
trying the experiment with nicety, being satisfied of the general result.
There may be metal in many of the Fuegian mountains, and I much regret that
no person in the vessel was skilled in mineralogy, or at all acquainted
with geology. It is a pity that so good an opportunity of ascertaining the
nature of the rocks and earths of these regions should have been almost
lost.
"I could not avoid often thinking of the talent and experience required for
such scientific researches, of which we were wholly destitute; and inwardly
resolving, that if ever I left England again on a similar expedition, I
would endeavour to carry out a person qualified to examine the land; while
the officers, and myself, would attend to hydrography."
* * * * *
{386}