Mr. Murray returns--Go to New Year Sound--See Diego Ramirez Islands from
Henderson Island--Weddell's Indian Cove--Sympiesometer--Return to
Christmas Sound--Beagle sails--Passes the Ildefonso and Diego Ramirez
Islands--Anchors in Nassau Bay--Orange Bay--Yapoos--Mr. Murray discovers
the Beagle Channel--Numerous Natives--Guanacoes--Compasses affected--Cape
Horn--Specimens--Chanticleer--Mistake about St. Francis Bay--Diego
Ramirez Islands Climate--San Joachim Cove--Barnevelt Isles--Evouts Isle--
Lennox Harbour.
"14th. This morning the master returned, having succeeded in tracing the
coast far enough to join our former work, although the weather had been
very unfavourable. He met with many Fuegians, most of whom were armed with
slings, spears, and cutting weapons made with pieces of iron hoop fastened
on a stick. They were very troublesome, especially at night, and obliged
him to keep them at a distance. Their respect for a musket was not so great
as might have been expected, and unless they saw it tolerably close, and
pointed directly at them, they cared not. The boat's crew bought some fish
from them, for buttons and other trifles. From forty to fifty men, besides
women and children, were seen in one place alone; and many were met
elsewhere.
"Mr. Murray penetrated nearly to the base of the snow-covered mountains,
which extend to the eastward in an unbroken chain, and ascertained that
there are passages leading from Christmas Sound to the large bay where the
whale-boat was stolen; and that they run near the foot of the mountains. He
also saw a channel leading farther to the eastward than eye-sight could
reach, whose average width seemed to be about a mile. He left the two
children in charge of an old woman whom they met near the westernmost part
which his party reached, who appeared to know them well, and to be very
much pleased at having them placed in her care.
"15th. Raining and blowing:--as usual, I might say. When {418} it moderated
I left the Beagle, and set out in a boat with Mr. Wilson (mate), taking a
fortnight's provisions; though I hoped to be again on board in less than
ten days, by which time our new boat would be finished, and Mr. Stokes, as
well as Mr. Murray, would have laid down his last work. My object was to go
eastward towards Indian Sound and Nassau Bay, but the weather soon stopped
our progress, and obliged us to put into a small cove on the west side of
Point Nativity, where we hoped to get shelter from the increasing wind,
though not from the rain, which poured down in torrents. The cove proved to
be much exposed, but we staid there till daylight on the following morning,
when we pulled out, and round the point to the eastward, gladly enough, for
we had been in a bad berth during the night, exposed to wind and rain,
besides swell. We ran along the land, with a moderate westerly wind,
stopped for a time near Cape Rolle, the point of land next to Weddell's
'Hope Island;' and in the evening went into some openings among the
adjacent islands.
"17th. At daylight we set out again, and ran along-shore with a fresh west
wind, crossed the mouth of a bay which seemed likely to afford shelter, but
did not then delay to look at it closely. Soon after noon we passed
Weddell's 'Leading Hill,' which is a very singular double-peaked height,
conspicuous from a long distance, and remarkable in every point of view.
Between it and Black Point (a projecting craggy rock) lies a bay or sound,
which appears to extend some distance northward. This part of the coast is
bad for vessels to close with, being much broken, and having several rocky
islets scattered near it; but two miles off shore there is no danger.
Having found a secure cove near Leading Hill, we landed, and the men set up
our tent, while Mr. Wilson and I ascended the heights to look round. The
wind soon freshened to a gale, and made us rejoice at having reached a
sheltered place.
"18th. The whole of this day was lost by us, for it blew a strong gale with
continual rain. Collecting limpets and muscles--cutting wood--and drying
our clothes on one side by the fire, while the other got wet, were our only
occupations.
{419}
"19th. Still a strong wind, but less rain. Between the squalls I obtained a
few sights of the sun, for time, and at noon a tolerably good set for
latitude. Being then better weather, and likely to improve, we crossed in
the boat to Leading Hill, and from its summit took the necessary angles. It
was very cold and windy, but we effected all that was then required.
"20th. Decamped very early and ran across Duff Bay, towards Henderson
Island, with a moderately fresh breeze off the land; and as my object was
to obtain a good view and a round of angles from the summit of a height on
that island, I passed Weddell's Morton Isle, Blunder Cove, &c. without
stopping, and reached the north end of Henderson Island soon enough to get
sights for time. From that spot we went a short distance to a cove, where
the boat might remain during my absence on the hill, observed the latitude,
and then ascended. Before we were half-way up, a squall came on from S.W.
and increased rapidly, but having ascended so far, I was not disposed to
turn back, so we pushed on and reached the summit; yet, when there, I could
not use a theodolite, on account of the wind. Towards the east I could see
a long distance, to the farthest of the Hermite Islands; but towards the
west the view was obscured by haze; so leaving the instruments, I hastened
down to the boat and found her safe, though she had been in great danger.
By this time the wind had moderated, and before dark we measured the
distance between the morning and noon stations: that from the latter to the
summit of the hill I had measured, when at the top, by a micrometer. We
then passed round the north end of the island, and in the dark searched the
east side for a resting-place, which after some time was found.
"21st. A fine clear day enabled me to make the necessary observations, and
I then went up the height and succeeded in obtaining a distinct view of the
Diego Ramirez Islands. As this hill is distant from them between fifty and
sixty miles, I felt sure of getting a good cross bearing from the south end
of the Hermite Islands, distant from them, as I then thought, only about
forty, and thus fixing their position.
"New Year Sound appears to be a large body of water {420} extending towards
the N.W., with a multitude of islands scattered about it. From its east
side the land trends away towards a point which is curiously peaked, like a
horn, and which I supposed to be the western point of Nassau Bay.[200]
"22d. We had hardly left our cove, when steady rain set in; however, we
went across towards New Year Sound, sometimes favoured by the wind, but
could do little. As far as I saw the day before, the snowy chain of
mountains continued to the eastward, therefore I had little hope of finding
a body of water in the interior of Tierra del Fuego, about the head of
Nassau Bay. About noon we were near Weddell's 'Indian Cove,' but the
weather being thick I did not recognise it, so we stood up the sound with a
fresh breeze from the W.S.W. I soon found that it led only to the north and
west, and probably communicated with some of the passages which Mr. Murray
saw leading to the eastward from the neighbourhood of Christmas Sound.
Towards the north and east I had already noticed a long range of mountains.
Concluding therefore from what I then observed, and from views obtained
from the heights, that no passage leads from this sound direct to Christmas
Sound, and that to return to the Beagle I must go part of the way by the
sea-coast, or else go round, by a series of intricate passages, to the
places which Mr. Murray had seen in the cutter; I preferred the coast, as a
second view of it would be of use, while a traverse among the islands could
not be very beneficial.
"Putting about, we returned down the sound, the breeze still allowing us to
sail fast. We closed the western shore to look for Indian Cove, and, as the
weather had cleared up, found it without difficulty. It is not so good a
place as I expected; for except at the inner corner close to a run of
water, I found only rocky soundings. The few casts of good ground were so
close to the shore that the place can only be considered fit for a cutter,
or small craft, which could lie quite close to the land. This cove is, in
my opinion, too far inland to be of general use; and an anchorage under
Morton Island would be far preferable {421} for a vessel arriving from sea.
We found an empty North-American cask, apparently left that season: on a
height near the cove there was a pile of stones we had not time to examine:
and much wood appeared to have been cut down lately by the crew of some
vessel. We saw several wigwams, but no Indians. That night we stopped near
the S.W. point of the sound, close to Gold-dust Island.
"23d. After examining the cove, in which we passed the night, and taking
observations, we crossed Duff Bay, towards Leading Hill. I wished to have
seen more of a promising bay on the east side of Morton Island, where I
thought there was good anchorage, but could not afford time, as it was
probable that we should be delayed in our return along this exposed part of
the coast against the prevailing winds. There is a considerable tide
between Morton Isle and the point next to Gold-dust Isle. The flood comes
from the westward, about one knot, or at times two knots, an hour. With the
ebb it is nearly slack water, or perhaps there is a slight tendency towards
the west; and such appears to be the case all along this coast, from
Christmas Sound. We reached Leading Hill late in the afternoon, although
the wind had increased much and was directly against us: at night it blew a
gale from the westward.
"24th. A strong gale prevented our moving, or making any beneficial use of
our time.
"25th. Still blowing very fresh; but I thought we could pull round into the
next bay, and there do some good by planning the harbour, &c., although we
might get no farther for some days. From the season, the state of the
sympiesometer, and the appearance of the weather, I did not expect any
favourable change until about the end of the month. The sympiesometer was
my constant companion: I preferred it to a barometer, as being much more
portable and quicker in its motions. By great exertion on the part of the
men, for it required five hours' hard pulling, we got round a headland into
the next bay, a distance of only four miles. It rained great part of the
time, and in the afternoon poured steadily, but we succeeded in finding a
sheltered spot for our lodging, and soon put ourselves into {422} somewhat
better plight than we had been in during the greater part of the day, the
men having been constantly soaked through, and their hands quite numbed
with cold and wet. I was disappointed by this place; the various coves were
sounded, without getting bottom with twenty-five fathoms of line; and I
could find no anchorage without going further up the inlet than would suit
any vessel running in from sea for a temporary shelter.
"26th. A strong gale prevented our going outside, but in hopes that there
might be an inland passage I set out to look for one. Having pulled and
sailed about six miles up the inlet, we reached its termination, and thence
returned to our bivouac. There seemed to be an opening into Duff Bay not
previously seen, which would have saved us some time and trouble had we
known of its existence.
"27th. The gale continued with more or less violence, and during the
greater part of the day we were occupied in gathering limpets and muscles,
as a stock of food in case of being detained longer than our provisions
would last. Shooting did not succeed, because the sea-birds were very wild
and scarce. I regretted that there was no harbour in the inlet which could
be planned during our stay. Every cove we could find had deep water, and so
rocky a bottom that we found difficulty in securing even our small boat;
for this continued gale raised so much swell that we were kept on the alert
at night to shift her berth as often as the wind changed.
"28th. This day, and the preceding night, the wind was exceedingly violent,
from N.W. to S.W., but generally southward of west. In pulling across the
cove to get limpets, the squalls at times forced the oars out of the men's
hands, and blew them across or away from the boat. Much rain fell during
most nights, but after sunrise it generally ceased; sometimes however the
rain poured down by day as much as by night.
"I here saw many seals teaching their young ones to swim. It was curious to
see the old seal supporting the pup by its flipper, as if to let it breathe
and rest, and then pushing it away into deep water to shift for itself.
{423}
"29th. This morning, with better weather, we sailed very early in hopes to
get round Black Point; the wind being moderate promised well, but, with the
sun, it rose again. However, we tried hard for about six hours, during four
of which I hardly hoped to succeed, for it blew strong, and the tide race
was dangerous: but before evening we gained the sheltered part of Trefusis
Bay. The men were on their oars from five in the morning till four in the
afternoon, and, excepting two rests of a quarter of an hour each, pulling
hard all the time. We landed in a sheltered spot, about half a mile within
the entrance of a passage which leads from Trefusis Bay to Christmas Sound.
Our fatigue and thorough drenching, by sea and rain, was then little cared
for, having gained our point, and being only a day's pull from the Beagle.
"I had seen along this passage from Christmas Sound, as well as from
Leading Hill, and rejoiced to get into it, for the outer coast is a wild
one for a boat at any period of the year--and this was the month of March;
about the worst time.
"30th. A fine clear morning. We started with the sun, and pulled so fast
along in the smooth water, that by the evening we reached our little
vessel, and found that all was well on board; that there had been no more
visits from the Fuegians, nor any troubles. The new boat was finished on
the 23d, only twenty days having been occupied by Mr. May and three men in
building her. Appearance was very much in her favour, notwithstanding the
disadvantages under which she was built. Lieutenant Kempe had finished all
the ship's work with his usual promptness: new topmast rigging had been
fitted, and every thing prepared for sea. I was two days over the time for
which we carried provisions, but by my coxswain's care of them, and by
using limpets and other shell-fish, we still had a sufficiency.
"Having seen as much as seemed necessary of the coast between Christmas
Sound and Nassau Bay (I mean necessary in proportion to our limited time
and provisions), the Ildefonsos and Diego Ramirez Isles were to be our next
objects.
"31st. A strong wind, with much rain, prevented our {424} moving early--but
as the sun rose higher the weather improved, and we tried to weigh,--yet
were provokingly delayed, for the chain was so fast round a rock, that for
nearly an hour we could not move it. At last we succeeded, without injury
to anything--left the harbour, and stood away for the Ildefonsos with a
strong W.S.W. wind and a confused high swell.
"March Harbour (so called from our having passed the month of March in it)
is not so good as I at first thought. The bottom is certainly excellent in
some parts; it is well sheltered, and easy of access, but there are many
rocky places which would injure a hemp cable. Besides, there is a dangerous
rock under water in the wide part of the harbour, hidden by a large patch
of kelp.
"We passed along the S.W. side of the Ildefonsos, at the distance of half a
mile. They appeared like the higher parts of a mountain almost under water,
lying N.W. and S.E., nearly broken through by the sea in several places, so
as to form several islets, of which the highest and largest is about two
hundred feet above the sea, and one-third of a mile in length; another is
about one-quarter of a mile long; the rest are mere rocks. The two larger
are covered with tussac,[201] among which we saw numerous seal which had
scrambled up to the very summits. Having seen enough of these islets, we
hauled our wind, and shortened sail, to prepare for the night: for it blew
a fresh gale, with every appearance of its increasing and drawing to the
southward. I wished to make the Diego Ramirez Islands the next morning, and
thence run to the north-eastward; and, had the wind been moderate, could
have done so without difficulty; but after carrying a press of sail during
the night, and making southing, with as little easting as possible, I found
myself, at daylight next morning, five miles to leeward of the
above-mentioned islands, with the wind strong from the N.W., and too much
sea to allow me to hope to see more of them without remaining under sail
until the weather moderated. This would not have {425} suited the
chronometers, or our limited time; therefore we wore round and steered (by
Weddell's chart) for the western part of the Hermite Islands, intending to
run along the land from West Cape. The wind became more moderate towards
noon, but the weather got so thick that no part of the land could be made
out distinctly; and supposing that a point of land which I saw was Cape
Spencer, we steered directly for it, as the day was drawing to a close and
obliged me to give up my intention of coasting. Nearing the land, I found
it resembled the point I had seen from Henderson Island, and supposed to be
the S.W. extreme of Nassau Bay, but did not correspond to any part of the
Hermite Islands, as shewn by Captain King's plan. Evening was approaching,
thick misty clouds shut out other land from our view, but being a weather
shore, I trusted to finding anchorage somewhere, and stood on.
"The wind increased, and blew in very strong squalls off shore, obliging us
to carry low sail until we had run several miles along the land in smooth
water, when we anchored at the entrance of a bay, in thirteen fathoms
water, over a coarse sandy bottom. A low projecting point covered us from
the force of the wind as it then blew; and the land on each side from all
other westerly winds: but the squalls increased so violently in the early
part of the night, that although in smooth water, with eighty fathoms of
chain out, the top-gallant masts down, and yards braced up, the vessel
drove, and we were obliged to let go another anchor, and veer a long scope
of cable; after which she held on firmly through the night.
"2d. At daylight we hove up the best bower, but found one fluke broken off.
After getting the sheet anchor to the bows, and the broken one in-board, we
weighed and made sail to windward, in search of a good anchorage. When the
weather cleared in the morning, I had discovered that we were in Nassau
Bay, near Orange Bay, and that the curiously-peaked headland we had passed
was 'False Cape Horn,' the same which I had seen from Henderson Island.
Finding this the case, I determined to turn the mistake to account, and at
once set to work in this quarter, postponing our visit to the Hermite {426}
Islands. Short runs were essential, because of the chronometers, and this
last had been a long one for them, with much motion, therefore it was
necessary I should get observations.
"Towards noon the weather cleared and became very fine, with a light breeze
from the northward. We stood across near the north end of the Hermite
Islands, carrying soundings right across; but the view we obtained of the
head of Nassau Bay, did not encourage us to hope for either interior waters
or a passage, as the mountains seemed to continue in an unbroken chain to
the eastward of New Island, and from the mast-head I saw other high
mountains far to the eastward. In the afternoon we stood into a
fine-looking clear bay, well sheltered, and with regular soundings, from
twelve to twenty fathoms over fine sand. I afterwards found that this was
Orange Bay, and that the bay at the south point of which we anchored last
night was that called, by the Dutch, Schapenham Bay. Being a large, roomy
place, with even bottom, we remained at single anchor; but the glass had
been falling so much, and was then so extremely low, that I thought it
prudent to prepare for the worst, and struck topmasts.
"During the latter part of our stay in Christmas Sound, and up to the
present time, our sick-list had been considerable, therefore I was not
sorry to gain a safe anchorage in a place which appeared likely to afford
the means of recruiting our invalids, and restoring them to health. Colds
and rheumatisms, owing to bleak winds and much wet, were the chief
complaints. This was the only time since the Beagle left Rio de Janeiro
that her sick-list had been worthy of notice.
"Notwithstanding the unusual fall of the barometer and sympiesometer and
their still continuing to sink, this day was as fine, and seemed as likely
to continue so, as any day I had ever seen, therefore we took advantage of
it, by getting the necessary observations for time, latitude, and true
bearing; by airing bedding, and cleaning the ship throughout. This appeared
to be an excellent place for vessels: the land around is rather low, and
looked much more cheerful than the high dismal mountains under which we
last anchored. Wood and water {427} were plentiful, and easily obtained.
Wild-fowl were numerous, and our people brought on board a serviceable
supply, enough for all the sick, and for most of those who were in health.
"3d and 4th. Still very fine weather, although the barometer and
sympiesometer were lower than I had yet seen them in this country. Our
Fuegians were becoming very cheerful, and apparently contented. We gave
them as much fresh provision (birds and fish) as we could obtain with guns
and lines, and hitherto they had fared very well. All that was shot went to
one stock, from which it was divided in rotation to the messes, the sick
being first provided for, and then the Fuegians.
"5th and 6th. Two more fine days, with a very low glass, shook my faith in
the certainty of the barometer and sympiesometer.[202] During those days,
the wind had been light from N.N.W., and twice before I had known these
instruments to be similarly affected during exactly similar wind and
weather: once at Port Desire, on the coast of Patagonia; and once at Port
Gallant, while I was in the Otway Water.
"The master went towards the head of Nassau Bay, and Mr. Stokes set out in
the opposite direction. Mr. Murray had one of our best chronometers, kept
in a box, well packed in wool, but exposed to the temperature of the air.
Before going away and after returning, it was kept and rated in the same
box on deck, because the variations of temperature in the open air of this
climate are small; much less than a chronometer would experience if
alternating between a warm cabin and a cold boat. I was sadly grieved at
finding that some Fuegians who arrived were not of the same tribe as our
captives, nor even spoke the same language. On the contrary, much enmity
appeared to exist between them; though their colour, features, and habits
were similar. At first, 'York' and 'Boat' would not go near them; but
afterwards took delight in trying to cheat them out of the things they
offered to barter; and mocked their way of speaking and laughing; {428}
pointing at them, and calling them 'Yapoo, yapoo.' 'Fuegia' went on deck;
but the instant she saw them, screamed and ran away. Some one told her, in
jest, to go into their canoe and live with them, which frightened her so
much, that she burst into tears and ran below to hide herself. After they
were gone, 'Boat' and 'York' made us understand they had had fights with
that tribe, and shewed the scars of wounds received from them. By the help
of signs we could comprehend much of their meaning; but very few words were
yet learned on either side. We afterwards found that these Yapoos built
their wigwams in a manner differing from that of the western tribes, being
made of a number of poles, or pieces of wood, placed on end around a small
space, and meeting at the top.
"Our Yapoo acquaintances established themselves in the bay near our forge,
but without attempting to steal any thing. They frequently came alongside
the ship with fish, which they caught in the kelp. They take these fish by
means of a line without a hook, having only a small piece of bait at the
end, with which to entice them to the top of the water, close to the side
of the canoe. A fish bites, and before it can detach its small teeth from
the soft, tough bait, the hand holding the line jerks the prize above the
water, and the other catches it. The fisher then bites out a large piece of
its belly, takes out the inside, and hangs the fish on a stick by the fire
in the canoe.
"10th. Still fine steady weather, notwithstanding the unusually low fall of
the barometer already mentioned.
"12th. By the assistance of Mr. May, at the forge, we made one good anchor
out of two broken ones, and fitted new hawse-plates where they were worn
through, by constantly using the chains. Fortunately, we brought from San
Carlos a good supply of iron and coals, and applied the latter only to the
use of the armourer and the small stoves, so that we were enabled to use
the forge very often; and between the wants of the ship and those of the
boats, there was always much work for that most useful appendage.
{429}
"The glasses had at last been rising; and during the past night and this
day, the wind was very strong with much rain. The wind shifted from the
northern quarter into the southern, drawing round to the S.E.; which, of
course, would make the mercury rise higher after being so very low, though
the weather might prove extremely bad.
"14th. The master returned, and surprised me with the information that he
had been through and far beyond Nassau Bay. He had gone very little to the
northward, but a long distance to the east, having passed through a narrow
passage, about one-third of a mile wide, which led him into a straight
channel, averaging about two miles or more in width, and extending nearly
east and west as far as the eye could reach. Westward of the passage by
which he entered, was an opening to the north-west; but as his orders
specified north and east, he followed the eastern branch of the channel,
looking for an opening on either side, without success. Northward of him
lay a range of mountains, whose summits were covered with snow, which
extended about forty miles, and then sunk into ordinary hills that, near
the place which he reached, shewed earthy or clayey cliffs towards the
water. From the clay cliffs his view was unbroken by any land in an E.S.E.
direction, therefore he must have looked through an opening at the outer
sea. His provisions being almost exhausted, he hastened back.
"On the south side of the channel there were likewise mountains of
considerable elevation; but, generally speaking, that shore was lower than
the opposite. Mr. Murray saw great numbers of natives near the narrow
passage and upwards of a hundred canoes were seen in one day, each
containing from two to six people. These Fuegians had much guanaco skin,
and many of the bones of that animal made into spear-heads, but very little
seal-skin. The wigwams were large and commodious, compared with those of
the western tribes, being built of small trees piled up endwise, and tied
together at the top, their outside being covered with bushes, grass, &c. to
keep out the cold, and the earth inside scooped out much below the surface
of the ground. Some could hold about twice as many people {430} as the
western wigwams: but all were not so large. Every canoe gave chase to our
boat, eager to see the strangers, and exchange small fish, spear-heads, or
arrows, for buttons, beads, and other trifles. No arms or offensive weapons
were seen among them, excepting fish spears, bows, arrows, and slings: they
had not even clubs, nor such lances as are used by the western tribes. They
seemed to be more tractable, and less disposed to quarrel than those of the
west. Wherever the boat went, she was followed by a train of canoes, each
full of people, and having a fire smoking in the middle. Where they got the
guanaco skins was a question not easy to answer. Was there a passage to the
northward, by which they could trade with the people living there?--or were
there guanacoes in the southern part of Tierra del Fuego? Both the bones
and skins seemed abundant; but the people made signs to Mr. Murray that
they came from the eastward:--none pointed towards the north. One native
showed how they ran, and their shape, and how they were killed, also the
kind of noise they made.
"15th. Mr. Stokes returned, after going a long way to the north and west,
without finding a passage into New Year Sound. His examination, united to
Mr. Murray's, almost completed the north and west part of Nassau Bay; and
only the east side remained to be explored. Our anchorage, called Orange
Bay, is excellent; and one of the few on this coast which are fit for a
squadron of line-of-battle ships. Its approach from the sea is as easy as
the harbour is commodious. There are three fathoms close to the shore; yet
in no part are there more than twenty; and every where there is a sandy
bottom. Water is abundant; wood grows close to the sea; wild-fowl are
numerous; and although shell-fish are scarce, plenty of small fish may be
caught with hook and line among the kelp, and in the summer a seine will
furnish abundance.
"On the 16th we left Orange Bay, but light winds prevented our reaching the
open sea that day, or during the following night. I was equally disposed to
run out again to the Diego Ramirez--to look at the coast west of False Cape
for about ten miles--or to run for the Bay of St. Francis; but the {431}
wind failed entirely. During the night we had a breeze that would have
carried us down to the latter spot, but wishing to see, and take bearings
of the land as I went, I did not profit by it; and in the morning was
baffled with light airs and a current setting to the northward.
"17th. During the early part of the day we had light variable winds,
scarcely sufficient to help us against the current which seemed to set
constantly into the bay, from the sea, at the rate of about one knot an
hour. The manner in which our compasses were affected in this bay was
remarkable; all of them being extremely sluggish, and, unless continually
shaken, they did not show the proper magnetic bearings, or agree together,
nearer than two points. I sharpened the centres with much care, and
examined the agate caps, without improving the results. The compasses
considered the best in other places, were here as bad as the worst; an
excellent one, upon Alexander's principle, with central jimbals, being
nearly useless. In trying the compasses on shore, the heavy cards with
large needles had been less affected by local influence than light delicate
cards of Kater: the heavy ones having averaged 24deg variation along the
whole coast, though Kater's differed in some places as much as from 19deg
to 28deg; agreeing nearly with each other, but not with Gilbert's or
Alexander's compasses, in both of which were cards comparatively heavy.
"We passed much too close to West Cape, but having fortunately cleared it,
ran along the land before a moderate breeze, and rounded Cape Spencer at
dusk. The weather was so thick that Cape Horn could not be seen, and we
mistook the former for the famous cape; especially as, in that view, the
lower part of Cape Spencer looked like the head of a double-horned
rhinoceros: but as we drew nearer, Cape Horn appeared. The wind failed as
we entered the Bay of St. Francis, and left us to the alternative of
anchoring in deep water, or driving about with the current: we therefore
anchored off San Joachim Cove, near the Seal Rock. The night proved fine,
so we lay quietly till next morning, and then made sail to a breeze from
the northward and anchored in San Martin {432} Cove. I afterwards went in a
boat to Horn Island, to ascertain the nature of the landing, and whether it
was practicable to carry any instruments to the summit of the Cape. Many
places were found where a boat might land; and more than one spot where she
could be hauled ashore: so that taking instruments to the summit did not
seem likely to be a very difficult task. As the weather continued
favourable I returned on board that night, and the next morning (19th)
arranged for a visit to Cape Horn; a memorial having been previously
prepared, and securely enclosed in a stone jar.
"After taking observations at noon for latitude, we set out, carrying five
days' provisions, a good chronometer, and other instruments. We landed
before dark, hauled our boat up in safety on the north-east side, and
established ourselves for the night on Horn Island.
"20th. At daybreak we commenced our walk across the island, each carrying
his load; and by the time the sun was high enough for observing, were near
the summit, and exactly in its meridian; so we stopped while I took two
sets of sights and a round of angles. Soon afterwards we reached the
highest point of the Cape, and immediately began our work; I and my
coxswain, with the instruments; and Lieut. Kempe with the boat's crew
raising a pile of stones over the memorial.
"At first the Diego Ramirez Islands were seen, but before I could get the
theodolite fixed and adjusted, the horizon became hazy. At noon
satisfactory sets of circum-meridional altitudes were obtained with two
good sextants. A round of angles, compass bearings for the variation, and
good afternoon sights for time completed our success. The pile made over
our memorial was eight feet high, and in it were stones which required the
united exertions of all seven men to raise to the top. We drank the health
of His Majesty King George the Fourth, and gave three hearty cheers,
standing round the Union Jack. Directly all was finished we travelled
towards our boat as fast as possible: but darkness surrounded us before we
were more than half-way. Those who had loads which would not be hurt by
tumbling about among bushes, travelled on; but, having the chronometer and
a sextant to take care of, I waited till one of the men returned with a
lantern. All reached the boat before nine o'clock, without losing or
injuring any thing; but the cargo of stones, for specimens, which each
brought back, delayed our returning progress materially.
[Illustration: C. Martens S. Bull
NORTH-EAST SIDE OF WOLLASTON ISLAND NEAR CAPE HORN.
Published by Henry Colburn, Great Marlborough Street, 1838]
{433} "At day-light (21st) we launched and stowed our boat, and set out on
our return. We reached the ship that afternoon, well laden with fragments
of Cape Horn.
"22d. Since the end of March the weather had been more settled, and much
finer than we had yet had it on any part of the coast; but our visit to
Horn Island was only just in time, for it soon changed again to blowing and
raining. Being close to the head of the cove, we did not feel the
williwaws--though they appeared to blow sharply enough about the middle of
it. I did not wonder at the American, whom we met in the Strait of
Magalhaens, saying that he saw 'marks of a very large establishment;' for
the head of this cove appeared to have been colonized by the Chanticleer,
so many remains of wooden roads and wooden houses were visible every where.
"23d-24th. Bad weather. I was waiting anxiously for an opportunity of
getting a true bearing of Diego Ramirez, from the top of Kater Peak, or
Cape Spencer, to cross the bearings obtained from Henderson Island.
"25th. I went up to the summit of the Peak, but found so thick a haze, that
no distant object could be seen. Leaving the instruments at the top, after
taking a few angles, and observations of the sun for true bearings, I
descended, and afterwards examined St. Bernard Cove, which appeared to be a
good harbour. By comparing the old charts with this place and Nassau Bay, I
became convinced that there had been a great mistake, and that the Bay of
Nassau is, or rather was, the bay of St. Francis; and that the plan given
in the Admiralty charts is a very fair sketch of its west side, from False
Cape to Packsaddle Island; but the bottom and east side of the bay are
evidently put in at random, and would have been better left out to give
place to the words, 'Land was seen in this direction.' Neither in shape,
bearings, distance, or {434} soundings, does that plan correspond with the
place now called St. Francis Bay; but it does agree very closely,
considering the date of its being made, with the part I have mentioned. The
words Cape Horn may have misled the compiler, as the plan does not show any
latitude or longitude, and those who since visited the place, previously to
the Beagle's arrival, had not been in Nassau Bay.
"26th. Another fine day. I went up the peak again and obtained the desired
angles; but Diego Ramirez appeared nearly as distant as when seen from the
top of Henderson Island. Meanwhile the Beagle was unmoored and got under
sail. I reached her outside the cove, and stood to seaward; but the day was
too fine, there being little or no wind till dark, when a light breeze
carried us out of the bay. I steered for the Diego Ramirez Islands, anxious
to profit by the fine weather, and examine them more closely.
"27th. The water being smooth, we had a good opportunity of taking angles
for placing the coast between West Cape and Cape Spencer, which completed
what was wanting in that part; afterwards, we again steered towards the
Diego Ramirez.
"28th. A fine morning with a fresh breeze, just such as we desired. Having
kept our wind under easy sail during the night, we bore up, and, at
daylight, ran along the east side of the rocky cluster, the wind being from
the N.E. We hove-to frequently to take angles and soundings, and sailed
quite round the islands at the average distance of half a mile, and then
stood away to the northward. They are quite similar to the Ildefonsos; the
top of a ridge of hills showing above the water, and broken through by the
sea. The two largest are about two hundred feet high, and are covered with
tussac: there is a shingle beach on one (the second in size), where a boat
may be hauled up in safety; and there is enough good water on the east side
of the same island to supply thirty men. A furious surf breaks against the
west shore, and sends a spray over the whole island. There is no sheltered
anchorage for a vessel: for though she might bring up in deep water, on the
eastern side of the group, for a short time, she would even then risk {435}
losing her anchor. The least water I found was fifty fathoms, though
Weddell's chart shows that there is less than forty off the S.E. end. The
heavy swell prevented my landing; but the appearance of the rocks induced
me to suppose that they were greenstone. If not of that nature, and similar
to the rock about Cape Horn, they may be of very hard sandstone.
"29th. In this climate, during the few intervals of settled fine weather,
the sky is frequently overcast soon after sunset, and a slight shower
falls. I noticed this frequently here, as well as during the preceding
April, May, and June, in the Strait.
"We stood into the bay which lies between False Cape and New Year Sound;
but it offered nothing inviting to a ship, being a leeward bight, with
rocks and islets scattered along it near the shore. Perhaps there is
shelter for a vessel amongst them; but I would not choose their
neighbourhood, if it could be avoided, as the bay is exposed to the S.W.
winds, which on this coast are the worst. The breeze freshening, and
drawing to the northward, enabled us to reach Cape Spencer in the evening,
when, as the weather promised ill, I was glad to anchor in eighteen
fathoms, over a sandy bottom, off the entrance of San Joachim Cove.
"Expecting wind, we sent top-gallant masts on deck, braced up, and veered
to eighty fathoms. After eight the weather cleared, and appeared likely to
remain fine, but the glasses continued to fall. At ten a sudden heavy
squall came over the land, and the tops of the hills became thickly covered
with clouds. Successive furious gusts followed: we let go a second anchor,
and veered a whole cable on each. The squalls came most violently from the
S.W., and in half an hour the bank of clouds disappeared; but a strong gale
from S.W. continued till daylight, when it moderated. Cape Spencer
protected us very well, both from wind and sea: should a ship wish to enter
San Martin Cove, and the wind or daylight fail her, she will find this spot
a convenient stopping-place.
"30th. The Beagle unmoored, got under sail, and stood towards Cape Horn: at
noon she was close to the famous Cape, with beautifully fine weather, more
like the climate of {436} Madeira than that of fifty-six south latitude.
During this day I had excellent opportunities of taking angles, bearings,
and soundings, which I hoped would be sufficient for the south and east
sides of the Hermite Islands. The following night we worked to the
northward, near the Barnevelt Islands, the weather being fine, and the moon
shining brightly.
"May 1st. A beautiful day--May-day indeed. I landed on the Barnevelt
Islands, and took sights for time, latitude, and true bearing, besides a
round of angles, while the Beagle was making slow progress to the
northward, the wind being very light, and variable. There is no good
landing-place on those islands; but as the water was then comparatively
smooth, we were enabled to land upon a steep rocky part, where the surf did
not break much. They are two low islets, lying nearly north and south,
covered with grass, tussac, and weeds. The largest is about half a mile
long, and one-third of a mile wide; the other is about two cables' length
square. Several rocks lie off the south end, towards both the east and
west; and one above water lies detached, towards the Hermite Islands,
nearly in mid-channel: but no other appearance of danger was visible. The
angles gained here, crossing those from Orange Bay, bounded the Hermite
Islands towards the north--though the detail of their coast-line,
northwards, yet remained to be ascertained.
"2d. As fine a day as the preceding. We were close to Evouts, an islet
similar to the Barnevelts, but rather higher. The weather enabled Mr.
Wilson to continue his sketches of the coast: but indeed no part along
which we sailed had been quite omitted. In the afternoon we closed the
shore near New Island, and were looking out sharply for banks and shoals,
fancying, because the land looked lower, and the Nassau flat had shoal
soundings, that we should find banks detached from the land. Shoaler water
we certainly found, compared with that to which we had been lately
accustomed, namely, from fifteen to twenty fathoms, gradually decreasing as
we neared the shore, but we never had less than ten till we were standing
into a harbour in the evening. I could here trace no {437} resemblance
whatever to any published chart; but seeing a place at the back of some low
islets which appeared likely to afford sheltered anchorage, we steered for
it, and at sunset anchored in a well-sheltered harbour on the east side of
a large island, to the west of New Island. The water shoaled gradually,
over a fine sandy bottom; but we ran in rather too far, and had only three
fathoms after veering cable, so we were obliged to shift our berth.
"3d. Mr. Murray prepared to go along the coast towards Cape Good Success,
carrying one of the chronometers, and other necessary instruments, and
taking three weeks' provisions. He set out, in a whale-boat, with six men,
well armed and equipped in every way. Having despatched the master, I
prepared for an excursion into the interior passages of this part of Tierra
del Fuego: while Mr. Stokes, in another boat, was to continue the survey of
the coast from the east side of the head of Nassau Bay to the vicinity of
New Island; and Lieut. Kempe would take care of the ship, and forward her
refitting, besides wooding and watering.
* * * * *
{438}