Sarmiento Channel--Ancon sin Salida--Cape Earnest--Canal of the
Mountains--Termination of the Andes--Kirke Narrow--Easter Bay--
Disappointment Bay--Obstruction Sound--Last Hope Inlet--Swans--Coots--
Deer--River--Lagoon--Singular eddies--Passage of the Narrow--Arrival at
Port Famine--Zoological remarks.
"(April 1st). This morning the weather was very unsettled, squally, and
thick: but as no delay could be admitted, when there was a possibility of
moving, we left at eight o'clock, and followed the course of Sarmiento
Channel. I have no doubt that a passage exists eastward of Point San
Gaspar, leading to Collingwood Strait, and forming an island between that
point and Cape San Bartolome: but with the N.W. wind and bad weather we
then had, that bight was too leewardly for us to venture into.
"The knowledge of an opening there could be of no great importance, yet had
I been able to find an anchorage near Cape San Bartolome I would gladly
have profited by it, in order to assure myself of the existence of a
passage. In hauling round, the appearance of the land favoured my
impression; but our chief object being to seek a channel through the high
mountains, I stood toward Stewart Bay, the most southern part examined by
the boats. Finding I could not anchor there without entering the bight and
risking delay, which I was unwilling to do, as I wished to reach Whale-boat
Bay as soon as possible, we proceeded and anchored in the evening in
Shingle Roads, ready for moving the next morning. Having, last year, passed
along the whole line of coast, from Cape Earnest to this place, there
seemed to me no necessity for a closer examination, for I knew there was no
opening within that distance, and I could very little improve what was then
laid down on the {347} chart. The weather was very unpromising, and at
daylight the next morning it blew hard from the N.W., but we weighed and
ran to the southward. When in the 'Ancon sin Salida' of Sarmiento the wind
suddenly shifted to the S.E., and was so strong that we were quite unable
to beat between Cape Earnest and the northern island of the 'Ancon,' but
passing round, found anchorage near the east end in a small bay: however,
as the wind had moderated, and the Canal of the Mountains was open to us,
on the east side of which there appeared to be several secure bays, we kept
under sail, and in the evening anchored in Leeward Bay, which we at first
thought would afford excellent shelter, but on reaching it found we had
erred exceedingly. There was no time to look for another, so we moored, and
prepared for bad weather, which, as usual, was soon experienced; and we
were kept two days without a possibility of moving, or doing any thing to
make our situation more secure. We had heavy squalls during the whole time;
the wind being generally west or W.N.W., but at times nearly S.W., when
more swell was thrown into the bay.
"On the 5th we got clear of this bad and leewardly anchorage, the wind
being more to the N.W.; but we had still such very squally weather, with
rain, that it was a work of several hours to beat to Whale-boat Bay, where
we moored in the evening, and prepared for examining the coast with our
boats, both to the east and west. Before leaving Leeward Bay, a round of
angles was taken from high ground north of the anchorage, and it was
satisfactory to reflect that the 'Ancon sin Salida' was traced far more
correctly than could be done in our former visit. There was constant rain
and squally weather all the morning, and only in the latter part of the day
could any work be performed in the boats. On the following morning Mr.
Kirke went to trace the Canal of the Mountains, and I rejoice to say that I
was again able to assist in the boat service, and went to examine some
openings. After leaving Kirke Narrow on the right hand a wide sound
appeared, about nine miles in length; and having traversed it, we turned to
the east, through a narrow intricate channel (White Narrow), {348}
obstructed by several small islets, and passed suddenly out into a clear,
open bay. Our prospect here became wholly different to that which for
months before we had daily witnessed. North and south of us were deep bays,
while to the east, between two points seven or eight miles apart, our view
was unobstructed by land, and we were sanguine in hoping that we had
discovered an extensive body of water. There was also a considerable change
in the appearance of the country, which no less delighted than astonished
us; for so gratifying a prospect had not been seen since leaving Chiloe.
Eastward, as I said before, we could perceive no land; to the north-east
and south-eastward lay a low flat country, and the hills in the interior
were long, level ranges, similar to that near Cape Gregory, while behind
us, in every direction westward, rose high rugged mountains. I fully
believed that our course hereafter would be in open water, along the shores
of a low country, and that we had taken leave of narrow straits, enclosed
by snow-capped mountains: the only difficulty to be now overcome was, I
imagined, that of getting the vessel safely through the Kirke Narrow;
which, hazardous as I thought the pass, was preferable to the intricate
White Narrow, through which we had just passed. Such were my expectations;
and with so noble a prospect in view, I hastened to look for anchorage for
the schooner, which I succeeded in finding at a place named by me Easter
Bay, and returned on board the next day through Kirke Narrow. Mr. Kirke
employed three days about his work, having traced the inlet, which trended
northward from Cape Grey for nearly eleven leagues. He found that it was
bordered on each side by a steep range of mountains, broken here and there
by deep ravines, which were filled with frozen snow, and surmounted by
extensive glaciers, whence huge avalanches were continually falling. The
western side of this canal is formed by the southern termination of the
Andes. At the northern end are two bays, with sandy beaches, backed by low
land, which, however, rises gradually to high peaked mountains, distant
about two miles.
"Early on Easter Tuesday we left Whale-boat Bay, and {349} proceeded
towards the Kirke Narrow. We had been unvarying in watching and trying the
strength of the tides during our stay; but the observations never accorded
with those in the narrow, and our calculations this morning, after all the
trouble we had taken, were found to be erroneous. On approaching the place
we met a stream of tide setting to the S.W. between two and three knots;
the wind was light; we sometimes gained ground--at others were forced back
by the strength of the tide--and thus kept hovering near the entrance until
eleven o'clock; when the tide slackened, and we neared the eastern end,
which is by far the narrowest part, and where, I apprehended, every
exertion would be required to clear the rocks; but fortunately it was at
the moment of slack water--we passed through easily, and our anticipated
difficulty vanished. This eastern entrance is narrowed by two islands,
which contract the width, at one part, to a hundred and fifty yards. When
clear of this passage, Point Return, Point Desire, and Easter Bay were in
sight, and we found ourselves in a channel much wider than those to which
we had been lately accustomed. To the south was a deep sound, apparently
branching in different directions between high land, but our principal
object was the low country to the N.E., and through this we were so
sanguine as to make sure of finding a passage. In the evening we anchored
in Easter Bay, and moored the schooner in four and six fathoms, over a
muddy bottom.
"Next morning (12th) the boats were prepared for going away to gain a
better knowledge of the country around, to find out the best anchorage, and
to become acquainted with some of the many advantages that, from the
prospect before us, we considered ourselves sure of experiencing. Mr. Kirke
went to examine Worsley Sound, and he was desired to examine every opening
as he proceeded eastward. As soon as he was gone, I set about measuring a
base between Easter Bay and Focus Island; which, being of moderate height,
appeared to be a favourable position for extending the triangulation. This
work was soon finished; but I was greatly disappointed, when on the summit
of the island, with the view that presented itself {350} to the eastward.
The low points, before mentioned, beyond which, from Easter Bay, we could
distinguish no land, and between which we expected to make good our course
to the S.E., appeared to be connected by a low flat country. An extensive
sheet of water was indeed observed to the eastward, yet I could only, from
its appearance, conclude that it was a spacious bay.
"My attention was next drawn to the southward, in which direction, to the
east of Woolley Peninsula, appeared a wide and deep opening, and this I
determined to explore on the morrow; for it was now the only course likely
to lead us to Fitz Roy Passage, where it became every day more
indispensable that we should arrive, since our provisions were getting
short. At my return on board, I learnt from Mr. Kirke that he had examined
the greater part of Worsley Sound, whose eastern shore formed a line of
coast almost connected with that of the bight before us, to which the name
of Disappointment Bay was given.
"It was arranged that he should proceed from his last point, and carefully
trace the shore of Disappointment Bay to the eastern headland of the
southern opening, down which it was my intention to proceed. With these
objects in view, we left the schooner next morning. A fair wind soon
brought me to the entrance, where I landed to take bearings on the west
side, and arrived at the promontory of 'Hope' by noon. There I ascended to
the summit of the hills, but found them so thickly wooded, that my
anticipated view of the land was almost intercepted, and the angles taken
were in consequence very limited.
"At this promontory the course of the channel trends slightly to the
eastward; and its direction is afterwards to the S.S.E., being open and
clear for eight or ten miles, when low land stretching across from the west
side intercepts the view. In passing to the southward, I landed frequently
to continue the angles, and hauled up, at the close of day, in Rara Avis
Bay, still doubtful of the nature of the opening.
"Next morning, passing Point Intervene, we pulled into an extensive reach;
and having landed, to take bearings, on the {351} east side, near Cape
Thomas, I proceeded, in hopes that beyond the next point some better
prospect would be gained: on arriving there, however, my expectations were
instantly checked by a bold rising shore, continuing uninterruptedly as far
as the Oliver Islands, which we passed soon afterwards.
"The width of the channel between the Oliver Islands and the northern shore
is not more than a mile, but it afterwards increases, and turns sharply
first to the west, and then S.S.W. In the west reach there are many small
islands, and the high ranges on both sides being detached from each other,
gave me yet some hopes of finding a passage between them. Proceeding in the
afternoon, a bight appeared to the S.S.E., about two miles to the westward
of Cape Up-an'down, which was examined, although there was no prospect of
meeting with success by tracing it, and in it were found two small passages
leading to the S.E., suitable only for boats. We ran down the largest, and
a mile within the entrance were embayed. At the bottom of this bight the
land was low, and I tried to get on some eminence, that I might command a
view to the S.E., but was always impeded by an impervious wood. I observed,
however, distant high land in that direction, and could see a sheet of
water, about six miles from me: but whether it was a lagoon, or a part of
the Skyring Water, was doubtful. I could not, at this prospect, rejoice as
Magalhaens did, when he first saw the Pacific, for my situation, I began to
think, resembled that of Sterne's starling.
"Keeping along the south shore, until late in the evening we gained the
west end of this reach, and finding no shelter for the boat, crossed to the
broken land on the west side, and passed that night in Hewitt Harbour.
"On the following morning, we pursued our course to the S.S.W., and at
eleven o'clock reached the extremity of this extensive sound. All our
suspense was then removed, and all our hopes destroyed; for the closing
shores formed but a small bay in the S.W., and high land encircled every
part without leaving an opening.
"Throughout the examination of this sound, we did not {352} distinguish any
decided stream of tide, and the rise and fall did not appear to have ever
exceeded a foot: that there was a slight tidal movement of the water seemed
evident, from the streams of foam coming from the cascades; and also from
the fallen leaves which were borne on the water, from the shores of the
bays, in long lines; but signs like these are indicative of there being no
strength of tide: I have frequently noticed such appearances in large
sounds, or inlets, but never in any channel where there was a current.
"The bays between Hope Promontory and Point Intervene are frequented by
immense numbers of black-necked swans (_Anser nigricollis_): hundreds were
seen together; they appeared not at all wild when we first passed; but, on
our return, there was no approaching them within musket shot. Many ducks
and coots were also observed. On a rock, near the Oliver Islands, was a
small 'rookery' of hair-seal; and, in our progress down the sound, we
passed some few shags and divers. This is the enumeration of all we saw,
and these few species seem to possess, undisturbed, this Obstruction Sound;
for we neither observed any wigwams, nor saw any traces of inhabitants.
"Having no interest in remaining, after some necessary angles were taken on
Meta Islet, we commenced our return; and, with a fair wind, made good
progress, landing only where it was necessary for angles, and reached the
vessel on the evening of the next day (16th). I have fully stated the
examination of this sound, and have been, perhaps, unnecessarily particular
and diffuse; but I think that when its near approach to the Skyring Water
is known by others, it will be considered very singular that no
communication exists between them. To every one on board the Adelaide it
was a great disappointment. The only inlet now remaining to be explored was
through the S.S.E. opening, east of Point Return; which, on the 18th, I
went to examine. Mr. Kirke returned on the same day as myself, having
traced the coast as far as he had been directed, and found the large
expanse of Disappointment Bay nearly bounded by a flat stony beach; and the
water so shallow, that even his whale-boat could seldom approach the shore
within a quarter of a {353} mile; but he had left a small opening in the
N.E. unexplored, which, as our last hope, I thought it necessary to
examine; and he went for that purpose the next morning. Situated as we
were, we had great reason to be very earnest in the search for a passage;
and, I think, that no channel into the Skyring Water, however small and
intricate, would have been left unattempted at this crisis. During the
vessel's continuance in Easter Bay, the men, who remained on board, were
employed in clearing the hold, and completing wood and water to the utmost,
in order that we might not be delayed at any anchorage after our departure
thence.
"On the 18th, I went, in a boat, down the opening east of Point Return; and
by noon reached Virginia Island. Two miles to the southward the channel
branches to the S.E., and to the S.W.; I followed the latter branch,
landing where necessary to continue the angles, and arrived in the evening
at the extremity, which was closed by low land; in the middle was a wide
and rapid stream. The slot of a deer was seen along the margin of the
shore. Next day we proceeded down the S.E. branch to the Centre Island,
thence steered towards an opening that appeared in the S.W., and passing
through a narrow winding passage, entered a large bay, which was closed at
the bottom by low land, similarly to the branch examined yesterday. Only an
opening to the N.E. now remained to be explored; but night coming on, we
hauled up in Tranquil Bay, near the northern extremity. The N.E. opening
was found to trend eastward for three miles, and then turn to the S.E.,
forming an extensive bay, whose shores were encircled by low land, and only
separated from Obstruction Sound, by an isthmus two miles broad. Our search
being concluded, I hastened back, and arrived on board the schooner late in
the evening. Finding Mr. Kirke had not returned, I still entertained some
little hope, and the vessel was prepared to move either one way or the
other as soon as he came back.
"Late on the 21st, Mr. Kirke arrived. The opening in the N.E. had been
traced for nearly thirty miles from the entrance, first to the N.E., and
then to the W.N.W., till it was closed {354} by high land far to the
northward of Worsley Bay. Many deer were seen on the plains eastward of the
inlet, and some were shot at, but escaped. Swans, ducks, and coots had been
killed in such numbers, that on their return all the schooner's crew were
plentifully supplied. Of this place Mr. Kirke says: 'At the commencement of
the N.E. sound there is low land, which extends about thirteen miles up its
shores. The entrance is three or four miles wide; but five miles up, the
inlet is contracted to about half a mile in width, by a shoal connecting
three islets with the western shore. These islets were literally surrounded
by black-necked swans, mixed with a few which had black-tipped wings: the
male of the latter has a peculiar note, which sounds like 'ken kank,' but
the female only sounds 'kank.'
"'A few coots were shot in this neighbourhood, out of an immense quantity
seen. In each of two flocks, I think, there must have been upwards of a
thousand.
"'From these islets the sound trends nearly north for seven or eight miles,
when it is again narrowed by an island, on each side of which there is a
narrow passage for a vessel; but the eastern one is the best. The few bays
near here are fit for small vessels only.
"'Beyond this island the face of the country begins to alter from low to
mountainous land, with long flats in the valleys, and the sound also
changes its course more to the N.W. Near a high bluff on the eastern shore,
eight miles further up the sound, the land becomes higher and covered with
snow; yet there are still a few level patches between the mountains. From
this bluff the sound trends about a point more westerly for five or six
miles, to a place where there is a small inlet, on the left, between two
snow-covered, mountainous ridges. The water there was changed to a
clayey-colour, and had a brackish taste. Continuing our course for two
miles, I found a large expanse of water, the north end of which was limited
by low land, backed by high snowy mountains in the distance; its southern
extreme terminated at the foot of high mountains, also covered with snow;
and had a large run of water from a {355} glacier on the western side. In
returning we saw some deer on the eastern shore of the low land, between
the islands of the second reach, but could not get within gun-shot: they
appeared to be of a dark colour, and fully as large as a guanaco. Some of
our men thought they could distinguish small straight horns, but I could
not myself see them.(d) I endeavoured to cross the isthmus, where
Lieutenant Skyring had seen water from Focus Island, near Easter Bay, and
first attempted it by the course of a fresh water river, at the head of the
bay; but I found the country so thickly covered with stunted wood, about
eight feet high, and exceedingly prickly, that I lost my way twice, and
returned to the shore; I tried again however, about half a mile more to the
eastward, and at last got to a high part of the land. When there, and
mounted on another man's shoulders, I could scarcely see above the trees
(which, at the roots, were not thicker than a man's wrist): there was
evidently a large expanse of water, but I could not distinguish much of it.
I think it probable that it is fresh, as the river, fifty yards wide, is
rapid, and appears to run out of it. There is not any high land in the
neighbourhood, whence such a run of fresh water could be supplied.
"'I saw numbers of deer tracks about this place, and the boat's crew
observed three deer similar to those above-mentioned.'--(Kirke MS.)
"We weighed on the 22d, and towed out of Easter Bay, with the hope of
repassing Kirke Narrow; but shortly afterwards so dense a fog arose, that
we could distinguish no land, and were unable to profit by the advantage of
a light fair wind, with otherwise favourable weather. In the afternoon,
when it cleared up a little, we anchored in Fog Bay, on the west side of
the channel, about three miles from Kirke Narrow.
{356}
"(23d.) A thick fog confined us at our anchorage till eight, when, having
some hopes of the weather clearing, we weighed, and stood for the Narrow,
but a continued haze prevented us from entering until after noon. As we
approached, no tide could be perceived, and again we were doubtful of our
calculations, having expected to find it favourable, however, we steered
for the islands. To give a better idea how we were driven about as we tried
to approach this Narrow, I have attempted, in the subjoined plan, to show
the direction of the currents, and the courses we were carried by the
eddies.
[Illustration]
"The wind was light from the north-eastward. Upon our reaching the station
marked 1, without having previously {357} noticed any current, we observed
a strong rippling in the Narrow, and immediately sent the boats a-head to
tow us towards mid-channel. We proceeded rather quickly until we arrived at
2, when our progress was checked, and we were carried rapidly back, as far
as 3. In the Narrow the tide was evidently against us; but in crossing to
the N.W. at 4, we were forced by the counter-current against all the
efforts of the boats--were carried close to the large island--and for the
space of thirty yards, were brushing the overhanging trees with our
main-boom. This part was, most fortunately, quite steep; for had the vessel
touched in her swift course, she must have been swung with violence against
the rocks, and much damaged, perhaps irreparably.
"No sooner had we passed the end of this island, than we were shot into
mid-channel to 5, and then as suddenly and swiftly carried back by the
stream of the tide. The boats could never keep hold of the vessel while in
these whirlpools; and it was several times fortunate that they had cast off
the tow-rope in time, for thrice we were twisted round, as if on a pivot,
by those violent eddies.
"A favourable moment was seized, the boats were again sent a-head; and, by
great exertions, we were towed out of the influence of the tide, and then
waited for the time of slack water.
"At three o'clock Mr. Kirke was sent to Guard Point, to ascertain the time
of high water; and at half-past four, in consequence of his signal, we
towed in with both boats, and passed the islands with a favouring tide; but
one quarter of a mile farther, we met ripplings, which we had no sooner
entered than a reverse of tide was found, as if the waters from the sounds
were gradually forcing back the tide of the channel. We still, however,
made progress to the S.W.; but it was not before eight o'clock that we
anchored in the west entrance of this Narrow, pleased, indeed, to be again
secure, and to have escaped unharmed.
"24th. Thick, hazy weather in the morning; but at eight o'clock it cleared
a little, so we weighed, and soon reached the {358} Ancon of Sarmiento. A
strong S.E. wind, during the forenoon, carried us past Cape Ano Nuevo, and
at noon we were near the opening into Smyth Channel, which I have called
Victory Passage. We moored in Sandy Bay, in eight fathoms, purposing to
remain during the next day (Sunday); and on the 26th, with a moderate wind
from the northward, we left Sandy Bay, and stood to the south, passed the
Elson Islands by noon, and at three moored in Hose Harbour. Next day we
cleared Smyth Channel, and anchored in Deep Harbour.
"(28th.) Wind light and northerly. We towed out of Deep Harbour at
daylight, stood across Beaufort Bay, and anchored in Tamar Bay; where, the
weather being unfavourable, we remained during all the next day, filling
water and cutting wood,--preparatory to our run to Monte Video,--in case of
not finding the Adventure at the appointed rendezvous, Port Famine.
"On the 30th, with a moderate breeze from the N.W., we left Tamar Bay; but
the wind soon after becoming contrary, we made but little progress, and
anchored that evening in a small cove, near the east point of Upright Bay,
where we passed the following day, in consequence of the wind continuing
easterly, and causing much sea in the Strait.
"2d. Weighed, stood out, and made all sail, steering through the Strait. We
passed Playa Parda early that afternoon, and Cape Quod soon afterwards, and
as there was every appearance of a moderately fine night, continued our
course. We hauled in near Port Gallant, when it grew dark, and burned a
blue light, to call the attention of any vessel lying there; but no return
was made, so we passed on. At midnight we were between Cape Holland and
Cape Froward, the wind being light and the weather moderate.
"3d. On rounding Cape Froward, we beat up in-shore against a N.N.E. breeze,
and in the evening were three or four miles to the northward of Point St.
Isidro. After a tempestuous night, we reached Port Famine, where, to our
great joy, we found the Adventure."
With the exception of such fish and birds as had been {359} previously
observed near the Strait, Lieutenant Skyring and his party saw few living
creatures. One novelty which Mr. Bynoe gave me was a splendid corvorant,
which, being quite new, and the most beautiful of the genus, I named
_Phalacrocorax Imperialis_.[180]
I also received a species of swan, quite distinct from the common one of
the Strait, which has been long known as the black-necked swan (_Anser
nigricollis_ of Ind. Orn., ii. 834; and Latham, x. 223). Considering it an
undescribed species, it was named _Cygnus anatodoides_.[181]
Several deer were seen, but none obtained. There is reason, however, to
suppose them to be of a novel species. The horns are short and straight.
* * * * *
{360}