Chiloe--Its probable importance--Valdivia founds seven cities;
afterwards destroyed by the Indians--Migration of Spanish settlers--
Province and Islands of Chiloe--Districts and population--Government--
Defence--Winds--Town--Durability of wooden buildings--Cultivation--Want
of industry--Improvement--Dress--Habits of lower classes--Morality--
Schools--Language--Produce--Manufactures--Exports and imports--Varieties
of wood--Alerse--Roads--Piraguas Ploughs--Corn--Potatoes--Contributions--
Birds--Shell-fish--Medical practitioners--Remedies--Climate.
As the Island of Chiloe was formerly shrouded from notice, by the policy of
its master, the King of Spain, and therefore little known to the world; I
have considered it not irrelevant to the narration of the voyage, to
introduce a short account of its present state, particularly as since the
trade of the whole coast has been opened, a new era has dawned upon this
interesting island; and although it has been, as yet, the least frequented
of the South American States, I think the time is not far distant, when it
will become an important part of the Chilian territory.
After the foundation of the city of Penco, or Concepcion, by Don Pedro de
Valdivia, in the year 1550, he passed on towards the south in search of
convenient situations for other cities; and crossing the river Bio Bio,
which separates Concepcion from the territory of the Araucanian Indians,
successively founded Imperial, Valdivia, Villa Rica, Angol, Canete, and
Osorno; the last being effected in the year 1558. The necessary
distribution of the Spanish forces, to protect so many points, made them
comparatively defenceless, in a country inhabited by a large population of
Indians, who contemplated the hostile occupation of their native land, by
the invading army, with a deep dissatisfaction. They had for some time
endured, with sullen patience, the yoke of the Spaniards; but at last,
incensed by the servility and bondage to which they were reduced, and,
probably, by no small portion of ill-treatment; the whole population rose
simultaneously, and waged a most destructive and {270} harassing war
against the Spaniards, in which the above-mentioned cities were all
destroyed, and the greater number of their inhabitants put to death.
The destruction of the city of Osorno caused the province of Chiloe, or, at
least, the adjacent districts of Calbuco and Carelmapu, to be occupied.
This town, being more distant from the seat of war, where the main body of
the Indian army was actively employed, was enabled to hold out for some
time; but, at last, cut off from assistance, prevented from communicating
with friends, and utterly destitute of supplies, the inhabitants retired to
the fort, or citadel; which they maintained, until compelled, by absolute
want of provisions, to abandon their position, and proceed to the south,
with a view of establishing themselves in Carelmapu and Calbuco; where they
hoped to be safe from attack.
Their retreat was attended by much suffering; many died from fatigue, and
many were cut off by the Indians, who hovered about them and murdered all
who fell into their hands.[145] At last they reached their destination, and
established themselves first at Carelmapu, which is on the main-land, on
the north side of the Boca de Chiloe, opposite to San Carlos; and
afterwards at Calbuco, on an island at the entrance to the Gulf of
Reloncavi. The latter position by its insularity, was effectually protected
against any attack from Indian tribes, who, for many years, continually
harassed the inhabitants of Carelmapu.
At what date this journey was made does not appear; nor is it certain that
these places were occupied before the foundation of the city of Castro, in
1566, by the Licentiate Lope Garcia de Castro, in pursuance of an order
from the Viceroy of Peru, Marshal Don Martin Ruiz de Gamboa.[146]
The island of Chiloe, from its situation, is a place of considerable
importance, and may be termed the key of the Pacific. {271} It is the
northernmost of that vast archipelago, which borders the coast from
latitude 42deg south to Cape Horn.
The province of Chiloe, one of the eight divisions of the Chilian Republic,
includes several islands, and extends on the main-land, as far as the south
bank of the River Maullin;[147] which takes in the districts of Carelmapu
and Calbuco. Its southern extent is not defined; but as the existence of
Chilian authority is not known, to the southward of the Chonos Archipelago,
certainly not farther south than the land of Tres Montes, the parallel of
47deg may be considered its southern limit. The country thence, to the
Strait of Magalhaens, is known by the appellation of Western Patagonia.
Besides the Isla Grande, as Chiloe is called, the following islands are
inhabited:--Achao, or Quinchao, Lemuy, Quehuy, Chelin, Linlin, Llignua,
Quenac, Meulin, Caguach or Cahuache, Alao, Apiao, Chaulinec, all in front
of Castro; the Chaugues Islands, opposite to Tenoun; Calbuco, Llaichua,
Quenu, Tabor, Abtao, Chiduapi (on which is the fort); Huar in the
neighbourhood, and district of Calbuco; and, to the South, Tanqui, to which
may be added Caylin, which is also called El fin de la Cristiandad.[148]
Of the above, next to the Isla Grande, the principal are Quinchao and
Lemuy, both of which are very populous, and {272} almost entirely
cultivated. The other islands are small, and very close to each other; but
separated by navigable channels, which offer many dangers to the frail
vessels in which the islanders move about.
The province is divided into ten districts, or Partidos, as follows:--
1. San Carlos, containing the northern coast of the island, as far as
Chacao.
2. Chacao. The N.E. part of the island.
3. Carelmapu and Maullin.
4. Calbuco.
5. Dalcahue, extending from Chacao to Tenoun.
6. Quenac.
7. Quinchao.
8. Castro.
9. Lemuy.
10. Chonchi, which extends from Castro to the south extremity of the
island.
By the census of 1828, the population of the large island, and those in its
neighbourhood would appear to be, comparatively, very considerable; the
number of souls being 43,131:[149] particularly as the greater portion of
the interior, and much of the sea-coast, are quite uninhabited. The
population of the district of San Carlos is confined principally to the
town; for between it and Chacao, there are very few inhabitants. At Chacao
there are only about two hundred houses, and Dalcahue is but thinly
occupied: but Castro, Quinchao, and Lemuy, are very populous. These three
districts are the most fertile and productive part of the island,
particularly for seven or eight miles round Castro. The peninsula opposite
to that town, which is entirely cleared, would abundantly repay its
cultivators, were industry more common among them.
Chiloe is governed by an 'Yntendente,' or civil governor, who exacts
obedience to the constitutional laws, as well as to the orders of the
executive powers, and the resolutions of the provincial assembly, which is
composed of members, elected {273} by the people, at the rate of one deputy
for 7,500 souls; but whatever the number may be, short of 90,000, twelve
deputies are to be elected. The duration of the assembly is biennial, and
its business is to superintend the civil regulations of the province.
Under the Yntendente each province has a local governor, whose principal
duties are to maintain order, preside in the municipal meetings, see their
regulations carried into execution, and obey the orders of the Yntendente
of the province. Whilst we were at Chiloe, the duties of Yntendente, and
military commandant, were performed by one person, Brigadier-general Don
Jose Santiago Aldunate; but, upon his resignation, the offices were
separated: the military commandant retaining the charge of the treasury.
The duties of the military chief, are to dispose of the troops under his
command, as he sees occasion, so as to ensure the quietness, and
subordination of the province, for which he is responsible; and to render
the Yntendente such assistance as he may require; but, for all ordinary
purposes, the Militia, who are under the immediate control of the
Yntendente, are employed. For the administration of the law there is a
Judge (Juez de letras), who tries all civil as well as criminal actions.
The province sends two deputies to the Chilian congress, one from San
Carlos, and the other from Castro. At the beginning of the year 1829, the
Militia amounted to more than seven thousand men, and the regular troops to
three hundred and thirty, which was quite sufficient for the province.
The port of San Carlos is capable of being well defended, and, during the
time of the Spaniards, was in a good state of defence. The entrance was
protected by a battery on the highland of the Corona, and by the castle of
Aguy, which effectually commands it. Farther in, on the same side of the
port, was the small, but well-placed, two-gun battery of Barcacura; close
under which is the anchorage. On the town side there are several batteries;
but, towards the Pudeto it is weak, although capable of being made very
strong. Fort San Carlos, which, for some years past, has been used as a
cemetery, was well-selected as to position, and constructed in a manner
very {274} creditable to the engineer. It was surrounded by a deep and wide
ditch; and under it lay two small batteries: one, San Antonio, commanding
the passage between the small island of Cochinos, and the Main; and the
other flanking the anchorage off the town. At the Mole were two guns, and
opposite to it, under the governor's house, was the battery, Del Carmen,
mounting twelve or fourteen guns. In the town, in a convenient situation,
there were excellent barracks, capable of containing more than one thousand
men.
The original establishment was at the Sandy Point, on the western side of
the port, where the situation is better sheltered, and, perhaps, equally
capable of being well defended. It is, also, on the windward side of the
harbour, and close to the safest anchorage which the port affords; but the
inconvenience of water-carriage was found to be so great, that the
establishment was removed to its present site. A still better situation
might have been selected opposite to Sandy Point, at Leche Agua; where the
anchorage is perfectly safe, and the communication with Castro could be
more advantageously made.
Northerly and westerly winds prevail, and the town is exposed to all their
fury, which, at times, is extreme. The anchorage nearest to it, for the
sake of convenience, and expedition in loading and unloading cargoes, is
often taken up, but is very unsafe, many vessels having been lost there,
from the bottom being shoal, and rocky; and the swell, during a northerly
gale, is so short and deep, that anchors will not hold.
The town is built on two rising grounds, and in the valley that separates
them; through which a rivulet runs into the bay, at a mole which affords
sufficient protection to the boats and piraguas frequenting the port. The
houses, which are all of wood, are generally small, and have but little
comfort. The plaza, or square, without which no town in Chile of the least
importance is to be found, is situated on a flat piece of ground at the
summit of the southern hill, and commands an extensive view. It is about
one hundred and eighty yards square, with a flag-staff in the centre.
[Illustration: SAN CARLOS DE CHILOE.]
[Illustration: C. Martens S. Bull
SAN CARLOS DE CHILOE.
Published by Henry Colburn, Great Marlborough Street, 1838]
{275} On the north side there is a strong, well-built stone storehouse, and
opposite to it is the church, also built of stone. On the side next the sea
is the Yntendente's residence, a low range of wooden buildings, erected
without regard to taste, convenience, or comfort; and opposite to this are
two or three dwellings, very little superior to common huts, or ranchos.
Within the last few years, however, some substantial buildings have been
erected by the more wealthy people in the town, an example which is likely
to be followed. During our visit, several were built equally creditable for
strength and convenience; and not a little remarkable for the rapidity,
with which they were completed.
Wood, being abundant, and cheap, as well as easily worked, is the only
material used in the construction of houses, which, with the exception of
the provision-store, and the church, are all built of it; and
notwithstanding the perishable nature of the material, which is not
protected by paint, or any external coating, from the humidity of the
climate, they are of extraordinary durability. The treasury, one of the
oldest houses in the place, has been built upwards of seventy years; and is
even now tight, and dry, and by no means unserviceable: but its removal has
been ordered, and, probably ere this, it has been replaced by another. In
Chacao, where, in former days, the Yntendente resided, the greater number
of the government-buildings, not less than sixty or seventy years old, are
still standing. This durability can only be accounted for by the nature of
the wood, and the practice of charring the ends of the timbers before they
are inserted in the ground. The lower frame is of 'Roble;'(t) the beams are
of laurel, and the floors and partitions, as well as the weather-boarding
and shingles, of 'Alerse:' the latter forms an excellent substitute for
tiles, or slate, being much lighter, and almost as durable. Some of the
houses are thatched with reeds; but this shift is only used by those who
cannot afford the expense of shingling.
The inclosures, round the houses, are fenced with stakes of {276} Luma,
three or four yards in length, fastened above and below to cross-rails, by
ligatures of creeping plants, of which there is an abundance in the woods
close to the town: the general name for them is Buque.
The land in the vicinity of San Carlos, which is a peninsula, is cleared of
timber, and partially cultivated. In the valley, through which the rivulet
runs into the sea near the mole, there are a few attempts at gardens; but
the extent to which the inhabitants cultivate, seems to be confined to a
rood of potatoes and wheat, which, with a litter of pigs, and an
inexhaustible store of shell-fish on the coast, are the principal support
of their families. It is not surprising, when so little personal trouble is
necessary to provide subsistence, that the Chilotes(u) should not be an
industrious race. Byron, in his narrative of the loss of the Wager, has
given a most excellent and correct account of the inhabitants of this
island; which, excepting for those about San Carlos and Castro, may well
serve at the present time. In the town, trade, a free communication with
other parts of South America, and the residence of several Europeans, have
introduced approaches towards refinement; and besides the articles of
luxury that occasionally make their appearance, such as chairs and tables,
crockery-ware, and similar domestic comforts; shoes and stockings are now,
on feast days, in common use among the females; although in many instances
one can easily observe, that the wearer is actuated by vanity, rather than
by any comfort or pleasure she derives, from a confinement to which her
feet have not been accustomed.[150] This is one of the steps towards
civilization, which the Chilote peasantry are making, and among the higher
classes 'el ultimo modo' (the latest fashion), is not less the theme of
conversation than it is in other parts of the Republic.
In style of dress, among the upper ranks, the men are more advanced than
the women, many having been in other countries. {277} They have given up
the use of the poncho, and in this particular, they say they are before the
gentry at Concepcion, who wear it on all occasions: and probably are quite
right, for, with respect to comfort, there is much to admire in the poncho,
as, of all cloaks, it is the most generally convenient, and the best
adapted for protecting the person, especially on horseback, where it is
indispensable: its use, however, offers the wearer such an opportunity to
neglect the other part of his dress, which it effectually conceals, that
sometimes, beneath the poncho, the body is very ill-clothed.
The dress of men in the lower orders, consists of a pair of trowsers, and a
shirt, over which is thrown the all-concealing poncho. The women are as
slightly clad; but instead of a poncho, they wear a rebozo, or shawl,
which, however, is very often dispensed with, and their persons are left
too much exposed.
These lower classes, or Indians, as they, with much reason, are termed, are
scarcely superior to the uncivilized savages of the southern coasts; and
live principally upon shell-fish, with what little they are enabled to
procure besides by the sale of a few pigs, or poultry, which they rear on
the scanty store of potatoes and wheat, that remains after their new crop
comes to maturity. One roof shelters a whole family. Father and mother,
sons and daughters, dogs and pigs, all live and sleep in their only room,
in the middle of which, a fire is made; whence the smoke escapes by
numerous apertures in the roof and sides of the dwelling.
As to their morals, within the precincts of their habitations, I have
reason to believe they have not much to boast of, although they are
described, by Agueros and other writers, as most innocent, and
well-conducted. Agueros speaks highly of their character; and cites Padre
Ovalle, who, writing upon Chiloe, between the years 1629 and 1636, says:
"The natives of these islands are the most docile and noble (dociles y
nobles) of all Chile, and are the least given to drunkenness, and other
vices; therefore they are best disposed to be edified by the light of the
Gospel."
Since the province became subject to the Chilian Republic, {278} the
government has made several attempts to improve the condition of the
inhabitants; among which, the instruction of public schools, was not the
least important. From an official report there appear to be ninety schools,
in which 3,840 children receive an education, according to the abilities of
the masters, who are employed; but these, from the small salary attached to
the situation, cannot be expected to be superior.
The language in common use, is Spanish; the original Indian tongue being
almost forgotten: but it is supposed to be the same as that spoken by the
Indians of Madre de Dios; for, on a late occasion, a whaler which had been
upon the coast of those islands, and had taken on board an Indian, as a
pilot, called at Castro; and during her visit, the Indian communicated with
those who understood the language of the Chonos, and by them was tolerably
well understood. This Indian has been frequently embarked on board American
or English sealers, which frequent those coasts, to serve as a pilot to the
seal-rookeries.[151] He is known by the name of Dan.
The products of the island, for the year 1828, according to the census, and
returns, officially made, were--
Wheat 64,935 fanegas (175 lbs. in a fanega) about 200,000 bushels.
Barley 21,645.
Potatoes 194,805.
and the muster of stock, and apple-trees, as follows:--
Horned cattle 5,411 head.
Sheep 86,580
Swine 21,645
Apple trees 75,754
The manufactures of the province are Carro, a coarse woollen cloth, two and
a half, or three yards long, and three quarters of a yard wide, used for
men's garments, and of very durable quality.
Ponchos--both these and the carro are manufactured by women, in a rude sort
of loom, of wool dyed of various colours from plants that are found in the
island, or imported for the {279} purpose. Of the latter indigo is much
used, and it is the general colour for the ground-work of the ponchos.
Frezadas, bordillas, sabanillas, mantillas de lana, blankets or rather
counterpanes of different textures, are also among the manufactures: none
of the above are exported, being made merely for their own use.
Cables, hawsers, and rope, they make of a plant, called Quilineja, which is
supposed to be the root of a species of _Callixene_.
No wine or spirit is made in the province, but Chicha (a very good cyder)
is manufactured from apples. The only other fruit produced is the
'Frutilla,' a kind of strawberry.
The exports must very nearly amount to the value of foreign imports, which
consist principally of sugar, wine, brandy, salt, wearing apparel, and
household furniture. The import duty on European and North American produce
is twenty-seven per cent.; from which, however, some articles, such as arms
and munitions of war, instruments of music, and other things of less
importance, are exempt. Spirits of all kinds, foreign wines, tobacco, tea,
and cards, are monopolized by the government, and sold at an immense
profit. The unauthorized sale of these goods is declared illegal, and is
punishable by a heavy fine, and sequestration of goods.
The exports, during the year 1828, consisted of wood in beams, planks, and
boards; hams, wheat, a small quantity of dried fish, fire-wood, and
brooms,[152] to the amount of 52,320 dollars, of which 35,683 dollars were
for wood, and 10,887 for wheat. These articles were exported in sixteen
vessels under national, and eight under foreign flags. The exports are said
to be increasing very much. In the year 1791, Agueros describes the exports
of alerse planks (tablones) to Lima, to be between fifty and sixty thousand
in number; and some years previous to have been in a much greater quantity.
The number of alerse boards exported, during the last year, was 328,928,
but of planks only 2,623.
The island, and neighbouring part of the main land, produce {280} a great
abundance, as well as variety, of wood fit for exportation, as well as home
consumption. The following is a list of the principal trees, with their
qualities, and the use to which they are most adapted.
Avellana (_Quadra heterophylla_), a handsome tree, in appearance like the
ash of Europe, of a light wood, which shrinks very much when dry, and may
be used with advantage for oars, being light, strong, and springy, as well
as for planking small vessels below the water, and for the ceiling within;
it is bad for firewood, being too light. The seed is a nut, about the size
of a cherry, the kernel of which is roasted and eaten. The tree abounds at
Concepcion, and in the country to the south, and grows on the Peninsula of
Lacuy.
Roble (_Fagus obliqua_, Mirb.), a large tree; and, from the durable quality
of its timber, considered the best in the island, for ground-frames of
houses, planks for vessels, and beams. The piraguas are built chiefly of
this wood. There are two sorts, one an evergreen, and the other a
deciduous-leaved tree. It is evidently a beech, and the same that grows in
all parts of the Strait of Magalhaens; the smooth-leafed sort is _F.
obliqua_ of Mirb.--see Bertero, in Mercurio Chileno, No. 14, p. 640.
Tiqui, heavy wood; but esteemed strong and durable. Piraguas are sometimes
built of it.
Laurel, used for house building in-doors, for beams and rafters, and posts;
durable when not exposed to damp, in which it soon perishes.
Manu, a tree of great dimensions, tall and straight, the leaf is like that
of a yew; it is a very useful wood in ship-building, for planks, and, next
to alerse, is the best for spars which the island produces; but the large
trees have a great tendency to become rotten at the heart, owing possibly
to the humidity of the climate, and to the very wet soil.
As the Adelaide wanted a mast, I sent her round to Castro for a manu spar,
for which I agreed to pay eighty dollars; but of twenty trees that were cut
down, not one was sound at the heart. The wood is heavy, with large knots,
which penetrate into the trunk to a great depth. A great deal of this
timber grows in the Gulf of Penas.
{281}
Muermo. There is no wood produced on the island more useful than the
muermo. It is used for timbers, and knees, and all other purposes of
ship-building: and is excellent for the planks of boats, as it bears wet
and dry without suffering from either. It is abundant, and much used as
firewood, for which it is well suited.
Luma (_Myrtus Luma_), a very tough and useful wood, used for tree-nails,
for stakes in fencing, for rafters in the roofs of houses; and is exported
in large quantities to Lima, for shafts and poles of carriages. The fruit
is sweet, and might yield a strong spirit; it is called cauchao.
Ciruelillo, a small tree, used only for washing-bowls and boxes; it is of
little value.
Quiaka. Of no value.
Tapu, a very crooked tree, growing along the ground in swampy places. It
might serve for floors, and timbers for small vessels; but it is not used,
from its being so very hard.
Tenu, something like muermo, and considered a good wood.
Peta, a species of _Myrtus_, of which hoops for barrels are made.
Ralral, considered to be like the wood of the walnut-tree, and of general
use, on account of its toughness and durability; it is made into blocks for
ships.
Meli, more tough than luma: of this the country people make pick-axes, for
cultivating the ground (Agueros, p. 127).
Pelu, also tough; useful for axle-trees and gun-carriages (Agueros, p.
127).
Mayten, useful for turning; and lasts long under water.
The above mentioned are produced on the island; but the two following,
alerse and cypress, are from the main-land, in the neighbourhood of the
Cordilleras. They are not only in general use in Chiloe, but are exported
in large quantities to all the ports to the northward. The alerse, near
Chiloe, is of better quality than that which comes from Concepcion.
The Cypress is brought to the island in 'tablones' (or planks), seven or
eight feet long, two inches thick, and nine or ten inches wide, as is also
the alerse; but the latter, from the facility with {282} which it splits,
is brought in boards also, four feet long, half an inch thick, and six
inches broad, which, as I have before remarked, are the principal articles
of barter.
The Alerse is found in great quantities near Calbuco; but at so great a
distance from the beach that it cannot easily be conveyed thither for
embarkation, except in the above form. The tree is cut down and squared,
then hewn by the axe into as many logs of seven or eight feet long as it
will afford; and these, with the assistance of iron wedges, are split into
planks and boards, in which state, without being further trimmed, they are
tied together in bundles, and carried on men's backs, or dragged over the
ground to the beach.
The extraordinary straightness of the grain of this tree enables the
natives to split it, so as to make it appear as if it had been dressed with
an adze, or even with a plane; but, as I have said, the axe is the only
instrument used. So great is the difficulty of obtaining a spar of this
wood, that when I wished to procure a new mast for the Adelaide, I offered
four times the value of an alerse spar to the natives, besides the
assistance of twenty men, and tackles, &c. to assist in conveying it to the
beach. The temptation was almost too great to be withstood; but the man to
whom I applied, who had before been employed to get masts for a schooner in
the Chilian service, and a flag-staff for the town, said that it would take
his own party two months to bring one to the beach: with the assistance of
our people, however, it might be done in a month. The trees were distant,
and there were two or three ridges of heights to cross, that would cause
much delay. The facility with which these people usually handle timber was
a sufficient proof to me that such a task, if refused by them, must be very
difficult indeed, and I gave it up, as the Yntendente was so obliging as to
give me the flag-staff, which had taken the same party two months to
procure.
The Hoxsley, a national schooner, built at Chiloe, for the government, was
masted with alerse spars, which proved to be very strong.
Alerse is used principally for the floors, partitions, and {283}
weather-boards of houses, also for shingling the roof; for which purpose it
is very superior and durable: after exposure to the weather it turns blue,
and has the appearance of slate. It does not shrink or warp; and though
brittle, is of a very close grain, and well adapted for furniture. Of this
wood the country people make staves for casks; and the bark of the tree is
used for caulking the seams of vessels, for which it answers remarkably
well, being extremely durable when constantly wet, though it soon decays
when exposed to the sun and air.
Spars of alerse, eighty or ninety feet in length, may be procured; and from
eight hundred to a thousand boards are frequently obtained from a single
tree. I was told that as many as one thousand five hundred have sometimes
been cut out of one trunk. Alerse is found on the island, but not of any
size. It is also common in the Strait of Magalhaens, in all those parts
west of Cape Froward; but there, from the poverty of the soil, it is of
very stunted growth.
The cypress is thought to be a different tree, but I rather imagine it to
be only a variety; the wood being white, whilst that of the alerse is of a
deep red colour. As the trade of the island is principally carried on by
water, roads are seldom used for that purpose, for which, indeed, the few
that exist are far from being convenient. Between San Carlos and Castro
there is a road cut through the forest, forty or fifty feet in width, in
the middle of which is a causeway, four or five feet wide, formed of logs
of wood, laid transversely. This is the only way of communication, unless,
which rarely occurs, the weather has been dry during some days; for, off
the causeway, there is a mere bog, in which a horse frequently sinks up to
the girths in mud. In many parts of the causeway, indeed, where the logs
have decayed, and have not been repaired, the passage is equally bad, so
that in wet weather, only persons without a load are able to pass. For the
greater part of the way, the trees on each side prevent an extensive view;
but on approaching within five or six miles of Castro, the country becomes
more open, having been cleared by cultivation, and there, of course, the
road improves.
{284}
There is a track branching off from the main road to the district of
Dalcahue; but on it, I believe, there is no causeway.
As the only mode of supplying the town of San Carlos with provisions is by
water-carriage, it is frequently ill supplied during winter, when N.W.
winds prevent the arrival of the piraguas. A southerly wind for two days,
at that season, brings from fifty to a hundred piraguas from Dalcahue and
Castro, laden with hams, potatoes, pigs, grain, fowls, calves, dried fish,
and charcoal, which are sold at a cheap rate, paying one-tenth to the
government.
The arrival of so many piraguas at San Carlos creates no slight bustle in
the neighbourhood of the mole; and a stranger happening to arrive at the
time would think it a place of considerable trade; the return, however, of
the N.W. wind, with all its attendant "vapours, clouds, and storms," very
soon dispels the illusion: the piraguas depart, one after another, and in
two days all is dull and monotonous.
These piraguas, the boats used by the natives of the archipelago of Chiloe,
are all similar in form and material; but vary much in size, according to
the voyage they have to perform. The largest are from thirty-five to forty
feet long. The head and stern are alike, and resemble those of a
whale-boat, being sharp at both ends. The transverse section is that of a
thick wedge, so that they have no bearings, and must be extremely
unsafe,(v) particularly with so lofty a sail as they hoist; and yet these
vessels have made long, and even dangerous passages, as is fully attested
in Agueros's account of the missionaries' visit to the archipelago
southward of Tres Montes. These boats are literally sewn together, there is
not a nail used in their construction; every portion of the hull is of a
vegetable nature. The lower, or garboard strake, is sewn to the keel by
strips of the stem of a creeping plant, called Pepoi,[153] and the seam is
caulked with bark of the alerse, which, while under {285} water, is
admirably adapted for the purpose. The upper planking consists of three or
four broad boards on each side, sewn together, and their seams caulked. The
wood of which they are made is the roble, or sometimes tiqui.
Agueros's description of the construction of a piragua cannot be improved.
"They are constructed of five or seven planks, each of which is from two to
four fathoms long, half or three-fourths of a yard wide, and two or three
inches thick. These are fashioned, or worked, narrow at each end, so as to
form the bow and stern, and afterwards are exposed to the fire, in order to
burn the outer surface on both sides. To unite these planks, they bore or
burn holes, two inches from each other, along the edges of the planks,
through which they sew them together with a rope of solid reeds
(soquillas), or twisted cane (coligues), forming a junction as close as a
seam of cloth. To prevent water from passing through the seams, they apply
along the plank, within and without, pounded leaves of trees, over which
they pass the stitches, and with the same preparation of leaves the holes
are filled up. Thus constructed, it is in appearance a perfect boat, or
vessel, but without keel or deck. That they may resist the pressure of the
water, and retain their shape, curved pieces (curbas) of wood, called
'barrotes' are fitted inside, and fastened by wedges of wood, instead of
nails. For all this, they are dangerous; and, since their sails, oars, and
other furniture are very inferior to what boats require, they are much
exposed to be easily sunk, and the risk is greatly increased by want of
care and management in those who navigate them."
In the above description Agueros has given a very good account of the rude
manner in which they are built, and has not in the least magnified the
danger attendant on their use. It is, indeed, a miserable and unsafe
vessel; and for the rudeness of its construction, and the poverty of its
equipment, is a perfect prototype of the crew which it conveys.
The largest have from eight to ten people, each of whom furnishes one
poncho, and the 'patron,' who steers, and directs {286} the course and all
their movements, provides two ponchos, all which are sewn together to form
their sail, which is hoisted by 'lazos,' or thongs of bullock's hide.
These sails are generally in a wretched state, the name Santisima is
applied to them all by the crews, with the hope of securing the protection
of their patron saint. The anchor is of wood, formed of four crooked
pieces, in the shape of a grapnel with four flukes, at the bottom, or crown
of which a large stone is fastened, to increase its weight. The crews are
exceedingly timid, and instead of making exertions to extricate their
vessel from any impending danger, they throw themselves on their knees,
beating their breasts and calling loudly upon their saint, for
'misericordia.'
I was given to understand that very few of them can swim, which seems
extraordinary, since they are born and bred in the immediate vicinity of
the sea, and depend chiefly upon its productions for subsistence. The fact
speaks strongly for the indolence of their character, even although the
rigour of the climate forms a bar to bathing as a mere amusement. Several
piraguas were lost while we were at Chiloe, and, as may be inferred, their
crews were all drowned.
With regard to the cultivation of land, they are very far behind, and,
comparing the present state with the description of Byron (1740), and of
Agueros (1791), very little improvement seems to have been made. The ground
is prepared by make-shift ploughs, of a very rude construction. Two poles
of hard wood (luma), about three yards long and proportionably large,
trimmed to a sharp point at one end and rounded at the other, are held by
the middle, one in each hand, and pointed very obliquely into the ground;
in this direction they are forced forward, by pressing against the blunt
end with the abdomen, which is defended by a sheepskin, suspended in the
form of an apron. After these have penetrated twelve or fourteen inches
into the soil, a second person, generally a woman or a boy, places a stout
stick under the poles, or 'lumas,' as they are called, close to the earth,
to form a solid support for them.
[Illustration: P. P. King T. Landseer
BREAST PLOUGHING AT CHILOE.
Published by Henry Colburn, Great Marlborough Street, 1838]
{287} The large ends are then forced down, the ground turned up, and the
lumas pushed forward again, while the woman uses her stick to turn the
clods over, to the right and left, alternately. These clods are afterwards
broken up by a wooden tool, in the shape of a pick-axe, called 'hualate,'
made of the wood named meli. Rude as this process is, the operation is
rapidly performed, and I have seen a field, ploughed in this way, that
would not do much discredit to an expert ploughman with a European plough.
The soil is a rich, sandy loam, of a dark red colour; and although rarely,
if ever manured, produces fair average crops. According to the usual
allowance of 175lbs for a fanega of wheat,[154] the weight of a bushel
would not be more than 51-1/2lbs., which shews that the grain is but poor.
Wheat is sown in the month of April, and cut in the same month of the
following year; but from the humidity of the climate, and constant rain,
particularly at that season (the commencement of winter), it is frequently
reaped before it is ripe, and almost always gathered in wet. Every
subsequent sunny day is taken advantage of, to dry the grain, but a part
must be spoiled by mildew. The evaporation, however, is so great, that
merely moving it about, and keeping it thinly strewed in granaries, will
effect much. It is trodden out by oxen, and to clean it, the grain is
thrown up in the wind by means of broad wooden shovels, and effectually
separated from the chaff. This rude winnowing takes place frequently in the
principal streets of San Carlos, and even at the mole, where one would
suppose that a great deal must be lost; but from the adroitness of the
operation, it is not only well cleaned, but suffers no diminution.
Potatoes are planted in September, October, and November, and are fit to
dig up in May.
Of the proceeds of harvest, one-tenth is paid as a tribute, or {288} tax,
to the government; but forced contributions may be required, when the
necessities of the state demand them. These contributions are sometimes
unfairly levied in Chile; for the subsidy is only taken from those who
possess grain, or some equally tangible article which can easily be turned
into money; so that persons who are rich enough to live without cultivating
land, or trading for their support, contribute nothing towards the
emergency of the State. How does this accord with republican principles? or
how can a republican government, so conducted, expect to become respectable
among nations?
I am not aware that such contributions have yet been levied in Chiloe. From
the character of General Aldunate, I do not for a moment think he would
commit such an act of injustice; but it is in the power of any Yntendente
to call for them, and I afterwards witnessed an example of this, during my
visit to Concepcion. A considerable quantity of wheat, purchased by a
Russian vessel, for the use of their settlements on the coast of
California, was brought down to the port, at a time when the government was
much in want of money, and knew no just way of obtaining it. They therefore
very unceremoniously seized the wheat, and applied its value in dollars to
their own use, giving only an uncertain, almost a nominal security to the
owner for the recovery of his money. The only way of accounting for such an
arbitrary proceeding is, that the country was distracted by civil war, and
that the person who owned the property was opposed to that party, which at
the time happened to have the upper hand, and which held, by main strength
alone, the reins of government.
Among the birds of Chiloe, the most remarkable are the 'Cagge,' the
'Cancania,' or 'Canquena,' and the 'Barking bird.'[155]
{289}
The shell-fish,[156] for which this island is justly famed, are principally
brought from Calbuco, and consist of the finest {290} muscles, of which
there are two sorts: the Choro (_Mytilus Choras_, Molina), and Cholgua
(_Mytilus Magellanicus_, Lamarck), Picos (_Balanus psittacus nob. Lepas
psittacus_ Molina, 1, p. 223), a large barnacle,[157] and the oyster (_O.
Edulis_), which is exceedingly well-flavoured. Besides which there are
several kinds of shell-fish of less value, but equally abundant, such as
Navajuelas (_Solen sp._); Caracoles (_Turbo_); Cornes (_Pholas Chiloensis_,
Molina); Campana (_Calyptraea_); Lapas (_Crepidula_); Tacas (_Chama Thaca_,
Molina); Locos (_Concholepas Peruviana_, _Murex Loco_ of Molina);
Quilmagues; Piures (_Pyura sp._ Molina); and others.
The apparently inexhaustible abundance of shell-fish with which nature has
provided the inhabitants of these islands, the facility with which they are
obtained, and their consequent cheapness, is the principal cause of that
want of industry which is so remarkable in the Chilotes.
Of the above-mentioned shell-fish, those deserving more particular notice
are the large muscle, the oyster, and the pico.
Molina has described the choro of Conception, which is not at all different
from that of Chiloe. It is often found seven or eight inches long. The fish
is as large as a goose's egg, and of a very rich flavour: there are two
kinds, one of a dark brown, and the other of a yellow colour; but the last
is most esteemed. There is also another sort, much larger than the choro,
yet equally delicate and good, the fish of which is as large as a swan's
egg: it is called cholgua; but as the shells seem to be of the same
species, I think the distinction can only be owing to size. In Febres's
Dictionary of the Chileno language, the word {291} cholchua is rendered
into Spanish by "cascara de choros blancos," or shell of the white muscle.
Cholhua, or cholgua (the letters g and h are indiscriminately used), must
be a corruption; for it is now used in Chiloe to distinguish the large from
the small choros.
The manner in which the natives of these islands, both Indians and
descendants of foreigners, cook shell-fish, is very similar to that used
for baking in the South Sea Islands, and on some parts of the coast of New
Holland. A hole is dug in the ground, in which large smooth stones are
laid, and upon them a fire is kindled. When they are sufficiently heated,
the ashes are cleared away, and shell-fish are heaped upon the stones, and
covered, first with leaves or straw, and then with earth. The fish, thus
baked, are exceedingly tender and good; and this mode of cooking them is
very superior to any other, as they retain, within the shell, all their own
juiciness.
The oyster, which is a true _Ostrea edulis_, is found in beds, at low
water, or taken with the dredge. It is about the size of the native oyster
of England, and not at all inferior to it in flavour. In Agueros's account
of Chiloe, he notices this excellent shell-fish; but remarks, that the
islanders are ignorant of the value at which it is appreciated. It is
rather curious, that, excepting in the neighbourhood of Chiloe, the oyster
is very rarely to be met with on the South American coast, while there it
is in the greatest abundance. We have never observed any shells of this
fish anywhere between the river Plata and Chiloe; nor is it known elsewhere
upon the western coast, I believe, to the southward of Guayaquil, which is
very near the equinoctial line.[158] The oyster-shells at Port San Julian
are fossils. Of the Linnaean genus, Ostrea, there are many sorts, on all
parts of the coast, both east and west, but they are what we call the
pecten or scollop. At Coquimbo, a species of scollop is much used as an
article of food, and called oyster; but it has no further right to the name
than because Linnaeus classed them all as _Ostrea_, and Molina describes
this to be _Ostrea edulis_.
{292}
The pico, which is a barnacle, grows to a very large size; at Concepcion,
however, it is still larger, being six or seven inches in length. It has,
when properly cooked, very much the flavour of a crab, and by the
inhabitants of this Archipelago is considered preferable to any other
shell-fish.
Before concluding this imperfect description of the shell-fish of Chiloe,
the piure claims some consideration, if it be only for its peculiar and
disagreeable appearance. It was considered by Molina as a genus allied to
_Ascidia_ (Mol. i. 214), none of the varieties of which are inviting in
their look, as an edible substance, but the piure is still less so. It is
thus described by Molina: "The piure, scarcely deserving the name of a
living animal, is as remarkable for its figure, as for the manner in which
it is lodged. The body is about the size and shape of a small pear, an inch
in diameter; or it may be described as a small, conical, fleshy bag, of a
red colour, filled with saline liquor, and provided with two trunks or
processes in the upper part, one of which is the mouth, similar to that of
the Tetias; and between these processes are seen two small, black, and
shining points, which are supposed to be the eyes. I could distinguish no
other organs, nor any viscera in the fleshy substance of which it is
composed, which is smooth without and spongy within. They are extremely
sensitive, and when touched, spout water out of both apertures. These small
animals are shut up in a firm, but glutinous case, of various shapes; one
case often contains eight or ten distinct bodies, separated from each other
by cells, formed of a strong membraneous substance. They are attached to
rocks or stones, under water, excepting when left uncovered by a low tide.
The natives eat them boiled, or roasted in their shells. They also dry them
for exportation to the province of Cusco, where their flavour is much
esteemed, and considered equal to that of the lobster."
At Chiloe, the piure is said to be a remedy for barrenness; and to such an
extent has this idea prevailed, that a Chilote woman, eating this fish,
literally says, if asked what she is doing, that "she is making children."
One would not, however, suppose, from the number of children which are seen
{293} crowding round the doors, that the Chilotes had any necessity for
such food.
If one may judge from the few applications made to our medical men for
advice, the climate is either very healthy, or the natives prefer their own
mode of cure. They have very few medical advisers, and those few are not
held in much estimation, being people of little or no education. A
prejudice against medical men has been, even in late years, extended to
foreign practitioners, and carried to great lengths. This illiberal feeling
is, however, fast wearing away; but, among the lower orders, the
application of herbs and other simples is yet wholly resorted to for the
removal of their complaints. One day, when I was employed in making some
astronomical observations, at Sandy Point, a woman passed me, and forcing
her way through a thicket of thorny plants, began to gather branches of a
species of arbutus (_A. rigida._), a small shrubby plant, which is every
where abundant, especially to the south, and in the Strait of Magalhaens.
My curiosity prompted me to inquire her reason for collecting it with such
apparent anxiety. She replied, with a desponding air, "It is chaura[159]
for a poor, sick child. These branches," she said, "are to be put into the
fire, and, being green, will produce a thick smoke, and yield a very strong
aromatic smell. The child, who is only five months old, is to be held over
it, which, as they say, is a good remedy; but," she added, with an air of
doubt, "I know not (dicen que es bueno, pero yo no se)." "Who says so?" I
asked. "Los que saben (those who know)," replied the half-credulous mother,
with a deep sigh, partly doubting the efficacy of the remedy, but unwilling
to lose the advantages of whatever virtue it might possess, for the benefit
of her sick infant.
The climate of Chiloe is considered, by those who live in other parts of
Chile, to be "rigorous, cold, and damp." Certainly there is much reason for
such an opinion, particularly in the winter months, when it almost always
rains, and the wind, with little cessation, blows hard, from N. to N.W.,
and, {294} by the W. to S.W.; but notwithstanding the great quantity of
rain that falls, the evaporation is great, and it cannot therefore be
called unhealthy; indeed, from experience, it is considered quite
otherwise. Agueros, to whose excellent account of Chiloe I have so often
referred, dilates much upon this subject, and from having resided there a
considerable time, may be taken as the best authority. Those who now reside
upon the island speak very much against it, and all whom I met, previous to
my visit, condemned it, as being "the worst in the world." Perhaps we, who
had lately been experiencing a much more disagreeable climate, went to
Chiloe with the expectation of finding it exceed in severity that to which
we had been accustomed in the Strait of Magalhaens, but we found ourselves
agreeably mistaken. Our visit certainly was in the better season, and we
had, perhaps, no right to form a decided opinion upon the other part of the
year. I shall, therefore, first quote Agueros, and then describe what we
found the weather from September to December; yet as these months were
considered by the inhabitants to be finer than is usual at that season, we
can only form a vague idea of the spring and summer. For the autumn and
winter I must depend upon the accounts of others.
After explaining the contra-position of the seasons, to what is experienced
north of the equator, with regard to the months of the year; Agueros says,
"Chiloe has also its four seasons, but does not enjoy the benefit of those
changes, as do other parts of Chile; for there is neither that abundance of
fruit, nor are its fields adorned with so many and such beautiful flowers,
and useful medicinal plants. The summer is the best time; for in the month
of January, from ten o'clock in the morning till three in the afternoon,
the heat is excessive. Between these hours, however, a sea-breeze, which is
called 'Vira-zon,' refreshes the air. In the winter the temperature is very
cold; but the frosts are by no means so severe as in Europe. I have never
seen ice, even in the small streams, nor does snow lie any length of time
on the ground.
"In the winter months, as well as in other parts of the year, there are
falls of rain, and heavy gales from N.N.W., and west, {295} which last
frequently for the whole moon, with scarcely a cessation, and the wind, at
times, is so furious, that the houses are not secure, and the largest trees
are torn up by the roots. The weather, when it is fine, cannot be depended
upon for any length of time; not even in summer; for in the month of
January I have frequently experienced gales, and rain, as severe and
copious as in the winter. During the summer months southerly winds are more
prevalent, and, while they last, the weather is fine, and clear, and the
air particularly dry.
"Although the winter months, and a considerable part of the other seasons,
are very disagreeable, owing to the severity of the winds, and exceeding
quantity of rain, it cannot be denied that the climate is healthy. In
Chiloe no epidemic diseases are experienced. The small-pox and measles are
not known;[160] nor have tertian fevers, so common in the north, ever been
experienced on the island. Spotted fever (tabardillo), and acute pains in
the stomach, are the only disorders to which the inhabitants of this
archipelago are subject. Thunder and lightning are rarely experienced; but
earthquakes have occurred at intervals. In the year 1633 the church and
houses were destroyed, and in the year 1737 much damage to the village of
Isla grande was caused by earthquakes."
So far Agueros. On the whole, the climate is not so unfavourable as we had
been led to expect from all that we had heard.
Captain Fitz Roy arrived there in July, during the latter part of which,
and the month of August, the weather was very wet, with some heavy gales
from the N.W.; but in his Meteorological Journal for those months there is
no record of the thermometer falling below 38deg, and it is recorded to
have fallen to that degree only on one occasion, the general height being
from 45deg to 50deg. The first part and the middle of September were
boisterous and wet; but towards the end of the month the wind was chiefly
from the southward, and the weather dry and {296} extremely fine. In
October it was rather changeable; but for the last ten days, with the
exception of one, on which there was a fresh gale with a heavy fall of
rain, it was fine and dry, and the winds were moderate.
The month of November was generally fine, but the first half of December
continued tempestuous and wet. The mean temperature of the months, and
other meteorological remarks, are as follows:
Column Headings:
A - 3 P.M. water at anch.
B - Pressure reduced to 32deg.
C - Dew Point.
D - Dew Point less than Air.
E - Expansion.
F - Dryness by Thermo. Scales.
G - Weight of a cubic foot of air.
H - Quantity fallen.
I - Quantity evaporated.
J - Remaining in the gage at end of month.
+-------------+-------------------+------+----------------------------+
| 1829 | Temperature | | Hygrometer (Daniells') |
+-------------+-------------------+------+----------------------------+
| | Mean | Ex. of | | | | | | |
| |at 9 A.M.| Temp. | | | | | | |
| |----+----+----+----| | | | | | |
| Months |Air | A |Max.|Min.| B | C | D | E | F | G |
+-------------+----+----+----+----+------+----+----+-----+-----+------+
| July 22 days|46.9|47.9| -- | -- |29.927| -- | -- | -- | -- | -- |
| Aug. 31 | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- |
| Sept.30 |47 | -- |64.5|35.2|30.061|40.9|6.18|296.9|806.2|3.3854|
| Oct. 31 |50.9| -- |73 |37 |29.979|45.8|5.14|349.8|845.0|3.9575|
| Nov. 30 |53.5| -- |68.5|42 |29.898|48.4|4.79|416.2|844.5|4.3361|
+-------------+----+----+----+----+------+----+----+-----+-----+------+
+-------------+-----+-----+---------+-----+
| 1829 |No. of Days| Rain | |
+-------------+-----+-----+---------+-----+
| | | | | | |
| | | | | | |
| | | | | | |
| Months |Fine.|Rain.| H | I | J |
+-------------+-----+-----+----+----+-----+
| July 22 days| -- | -- | -- | -- | -- |
| Aug. 31 | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- |
| Sept.30 | 7 | 7 |1.68|0.48|1.2 |
| Oct. 31 | 21 | 10 |4.22|2.25|1.97 |
| Nov. 30 | 14 | 16 |4.89|2.28|2.61 |
+-------------+-----+-----+----+----+-----+
{297}
This table partly shows the state of the weather during three spring
months. The greatest quantity of rain in the gage at the end of the month
of November did not exceed 2.6 inches. At St. Martin's Cove, near Cape
Horn, after thirty days' observation, the rain-gage contained eight inches;
so that although Chiloe bears the character of being a very wet place, it
is not one-third so bad as Cape Horn. The time of our visit to San Carlos
was certainly the finest part of the year; and I believe that the weather
we experienced was unusually dry even for the season; therefore, the above
table does not present a fair criterion of the climate: I do not, however,
think it is by any means so bad as has been represented.
* * * * *
{298}