Extracts from the Journals of Lieutenants Skyring and Graves--Magdalen
Channel--Keats Sound--Mount Sarmiento--Barrow Head--Cockburn Channel--
Prevalence of south-west winds--Melville Sound--Ascent of Mount Skyring--
Memorial--Cockburn and Barbara Channels--Mass of Islets and Rocks--Hewett
Bay--Cypress trees useful--Adelaide rejoins Beagle in Port Gallant--
Captain King's narrative resumed--Plan of future proceedings--Adelaide
arrives at Chiloe--Abstract of Lieutenant Skyring's account of her
proceedings--Smyth Channel--Mount Burney--'Ancon sin Salida'--Natives--
Kirke Narrows--Guia Narrows--Peculiar tides--Indians in plank canoes--
Passage to Chiloe.
The extracts from Captain Fitz Roy's first journal being ended, I shall now
give some passages from the journals of Lieutenants Skyring and Graves,
while employed in the Adelaide, exploring and surveying the Magdalen and
Barbara Channels.
The reader will remember, that the Adelaide parted company with the Beagle,
at the entrance of the Magdalen Channel, on the 19th of April; and steered
to the southward under the direction of Lieutenant Skyring.
Lieutenant Graves says:--
"The east and west shores of the Magdalen Channel run nearly parallel to
each other: but the east side is broken by a large opening, named Keats
Sound, which runs into the land for eight miles, and appears very like a
channel.(s)
"At the S.W. angle of the Magdalen Channel stands Mount Sarmiento: the most
conspicuous, and the most splendid object in these regions. Rising abruptly
from the sea, to a height of about 7,000 feet, it terminates in two sharp
peaks, which seem absolutely in the sky: so lofty does the mountain appear,
when you are close to its base.
{252}
"Two thirds of the height are covered with snow; and two enormous glaciers
descend into the deep blue waters of the sea beneath. When the sun shines,
it is a most brilliant and magnificent sight.
"Many days were almost lost to us, in consequence of heavy gales,
accompanied by torrents of rain; but we profited by intervals of fine
weather to move from cove to cove.
"On the 5th of May, while working out of Stormy Bay, we grounded, and
remained fixed upon a rock several hours, but were lifted off again by the
next tide, without having sustained material injury.
"To vessels navigating this channel, I should strongly recommend giving a
preference to the south shore, where there are many openings, and I have no
doubt good anchorages, which, as our time was limited, and the weather very
tempestuous, we had not an opportunity of examining. If any such exist they
would have a decided advantage over those on the north shore, from being
generally to windward, and therefore easy to leave, as well as more secure.
King and Fitz Roy Islands, lying in mid-channel, between Stormy and Park
Bays, are of bold approach, as are also the Kirke Rocks, which lie further
to the S.W.
"One morning, being anxious to obtain a more secure situation for the
vessel, we started in search of a better berth, intending, if possible, to
reach a bay on the other shore, near Barrow Head, apparently affording good
anchorage; but after beating about, from nine until four o'clock, without
being able to reach it, the breeze freshening, and sea increasing, we bore
up, and again anchored under the lee of the same island. S.W. winds prevail
in these parts throughout the year: in confirmation of which, besides the
experience we ourselves have had, all the trees which stand exposed, are
bent in an opposite direction; and on the S.W. side of all the land open to
that point, not only does the vegetation commence much further from the
water's edge, but it is scarcer, and more stunted. In sheltered places the
trees grow to within a foot of high-water mark.
[Illustration: C. Martens T. Landseer
MOUNT SARMIENTO.
Published by Henry Colburn, Great Marlborough Street, 1838]
{253}
"May 11th. We remained at the above-mentioned anchorage; and while
Lieutenant Skyring was examining a cluster of islands in the vicinity, I
obtained observations for the latitude and longitude; and as it was the
first fine day, indeed the only one since entering this channel in which we
had a fair proportion of sunshine, it was taken advantage of to dry and air
all our clothes and bedding, and clean out the vessel thoroughly.
"The next anchorage we took, was in a cove just large enough to hold the
schooner, at the entrance of Dyneley Sound, on the north shore. In crossing
over, we had a fine view of Mount Sarmiento; and looking to seaward, from
the hill over this cove, the Tussac, and the Fury Rocks, at the entrance of
Melville Sound, which are much resorted to by sealers, were clearly
distinguishable.
"During our stay here, until May 15th, the neighbouring coast was examined,
whenever the weather permitted. We also communicated with several canoes
full of Indians, but gained no additional information respecting the habits
of the natives.
"The next start carried us through the islands of Melville Sound, to an
anchorage in a small cove, at the N.E. end of the largest of the Magill
Islands, upon which is Mount Skyring. Having resolved to ascend to the top,
as it offered so commanding a view, and was so centrally situated, we
remained for that purpose." The weather, for several days, was very
unfavourable, and it was not until the 21st, that there was any reasonable
prospect of obtaining a view from the summit; when Lieutenant Skyring and
Mr. Kirke had a most laborious excursion, and the latter was nearly
frost-bitten in ascending the mountain; but they were fully recompensed for
the trouble and difficulty they had experienced.
Lieutenant Skyring says:--
"We gained the summit after three hour's hard travelling. During the last
five hundred feet of ascent, the mountain was almost precipitous, and we
had the utmost difficulty in passing the instruments from hand to hand. Its
formation is remarkable, although, I believe, the same structure exists
throughout the hills around. The base is a coarse granite, but this solid
{254} formation cannot be traced half the height; above is an immense heap
of masses of rock, irregularly and wonderfully thrown together, many huge
fragments overhanging, with apparently very little hold. This station was
the most commanding we had chosen during the survey, and answered well for
the object we desired; which being attained, we returned on board, and I
rejoiced when all were safe, for it was neither an easy, nor a pleasant
enterprise."
A document, of which the following is a copy, was enclosed in a bottle and
a strong outer case, and left at the summit of the mountain.
(Copy.)
This Memorial was left by the officers of H.M. Schooner Adelaide, while
employed on a survey of the Magdalen, Cockburn, and Barbara Channels;
and any person finding it is requested to leave the original document,
and build the pile, under which it is placed, at least six feet higher.
Signed this 16th day of May 1829, by
W. G. Skyring, Lieut. and assist. surveyor of H.M.S. Beagle.
Thomas Graves, Lieut. of H.M. Schooner Adelaide.
James Kirke, Midshipman H.M.S. Beagle.
Alex. Millar, Master assist. H.M.S. Adelaide.
Benj. Bynoe, Assist. surgeon H.M.S. Beagle.
Jno. Park, Assist. surgeon H.M.S. Adventure.
God save the King.
"In the Cockburn Channel,[134] the flood-tide sets to seaward; {255} but it
was not found to be of consequence to a vessel in working through. The rise
and fall is not more than six, or at most, eight feet, at spring-tides.
"May 22d. We quitted this anchorage; and having worked to the westward,
through the Adelaide Passage, took up a berth in a small bay, two miles and
a half to the northward, where we remained during the night, and next
morning; then, after examining the neighbouring coast sufficiently to carry
on our triangulation, proceeded to an anchorage on the north side of Bynoe
Island. From the summit of this place an extensive view was obtained of the
islands in Melville Sound, as well as of the entrance to the Cockburn and
Barbara Channels. Such a complicated mass of islands and rocks, I never
before saw; to lay them all down correctly would occupy a long time.
Sufficient, however, has been done to take the navigator through this
labyrinth; but I am well aware, that very much is still wanting to complete
the survey.
"Fury and North Harbours, of which the former became more particularly
known to us from the Prince of Saxe Cobourg having been wrecked there in
December 1826, were laid down from an eye-sketch only; but the peaks of the
island, and its extremes, were fixed by triangulation.[135]
"Melville Sound is formed by the islands which separate the Cockburn from
the Barbara Channels. Generally speaking, they, as well as the coasts in
the immediate neighbourhood which are exposed to seaward, present a most
barren and desolate appearance.
"Until the 26th of May, we were much occupied among the surrounding
islands; but time being short, we took advantage of a southerly wind to run
up the Barbara Channel, and soon reached an anchorage in Hewett Bay. While
securing the vessel, a canoe, containing only a man, woman, and child, and
three dogs, was seen coming round the south point of the bay. As they
seemed very unwilling to pay us a visit, remaining at a distance, and
vociferating as usual, 'Ho-say,' 'Ho-say!' Mr. Bynoe and I communicated
with them in the dinghy; but {256} finding they had not an article worth
bartering for, we soon left them, and returned on board. It was suspected
their companions were not far off, and indeed, the day after, Lieutenant
Skyring saw several canoes; but the moment he was discovered, they were
beached, and the men, taking to the woods, kept at a distance.
"On the 29th, we left Hewett Bay, and, after threading the needle through a
multitude of islands, islets, and small rocks, for more than three miles,
reached an anchorage in a small cove, at the north entrance of Brown Bay,
where we were detained, and confined to the vessel, by heavy gales, and
stormy weather, until June 2d; when, having a fine day, we reached a spot
(marked in the chart as North anchorage) sufficiently secure for a small
vessel; but not to be recommended to any other.
"Between Hewett Bay, and the above anchorage, there are several rocks,
among patches of kelp, which, as they only show themselves at half ebb, or
near low water, render the navigation rather intricate. A good maxim in
these channels is, 'Avoid kelp, and you avoid danger.' Forty-three days had
passed since we left Port Famine; and in this interval, I find we had nine
favourable days, twelve partially favourable, some hours of which we could
employ in the work about which we were engaged, and the remaining
twenty-three were days of rain and wind, far too unfavourable to serve our
purpose in the least.
"June 4th. While turning to windward, we, for the first time, felt the
influence of the tide, which, from the channel's narrowing, begins to be
sensible: here it was sufficiently strong to prevent our gaining ground in
beating to windward, although with a good working breeze; we therefore ran
into a bay on the west side, and anchored. The country around had rather a
pleasing appearance, the shores being partially covered with the evergreen,
and deciduous-leaved beech, and a few stunted cypress-trees. These last are
serviceable for boat-hook spars, or boats' masts; and, when seasoned, work
up very smoothly, and wear well: the beech-trees do not equal those found
further northward in the Strait, except here and there in sheltered
corners.
{257}
"With a leading wind, the next morning, we reached the south narrows of the
Barbara Channel, through which we were carried by a strong tide, and
anchored in Bedford Bay.
"Here, as well as throughout the Barbara channel, the flood tide sets to
the southward. We obtained at this place angles which connected our
triangulation with points fixed by Captain King during the previous year,
and finished our examination of these channels within a very few days of
the time allotted.
"On the 8th of June we attempted to pass through the Shag Narrows, but not
saving the tide, were obliged to anchor for the night in Field Bay, which
is small and much exposed to southerly winds; the bank also is very abrupt,
and the water is deep close to the shore.
"On the 9th we succeeded in clearing the Narrows, and reached Port Gallant
early in the afternoon, where we rejoined the Beagle."
Having given these brief extracts from Journals kept on board the Beagle
and Adelaide, during the time occupied by the Adventure about Cape Horn, or
on her way to Chiloe, I will resume my own narrative.
As it was my intention to remain at this port[136] until the Beagle and
Adelaide were equipped, the Adventure was made snug, and, by way of
relaxation, such of the officers as could be spared from the duties of the
ship, resided in turns at the town, where also the ship's company had
frequently permission to amuse themselves.
The Hoxsley schooner arrived from Valparaiso and brought me letters from
the Admiralty, acquiescing in my request to return to England direct,
instead of proceeding by way of New South Wales and the Cape of Good Hope,
as was originally intended. I therefore determined to return to Valparaiso
as soon as our consorts had taken their departure, proceed thence to Port
Famine, where we were to be joined by the Adelaide, and afterwards repair
to Rio de Janeiro to await the Beagle's arrival, when we should sail for
England.
{258}
On the 20th of September my anxiety for the Adelaide was relieved by her
appearance, and by finding all on board her in good health. She had gone up
the coast by the channels that communicate with the Strait of Magalhaens at
Beaufort Bay, passing inside of Hanover Island and Madre de Dios; and
Lieut. Skyring gave me a very interesting account of their discoveries, of
which the following is an abstract.
It will be remembered that the Beagle left the Adelaide at anchor under
Cape Upright. While there the wind freshened up from the eastward, and
threw a swell into the bay, which rendered the anchorage very unsafe, as
the schooner's stern was in the foam of the sea that broke on the rocky
shore close to her. Much anxiety was felt for their safety, but the anchors
held well. As soon as the weather permitted they sailed, entered Beaufort
Bay, and steered towards a deep opening to the eastward of Cape Phillip,
into which they ran with a steady S.E. wind, and found an anchorage on the
west side in Deep Harbour.
On the 5th of July Lieut. Skyring and Mr. Kirke were absent in a whaleboat,
exploring a deep opening eastward of Cape Tamar, which they found to
terminate in two sounds, named by them Icy Sound and Glacier Bay; the first
from its being covered with a sheet of ice, and the latter from its being
full of large masses which had been detached from an extensive glacier
occupying the bottom of the bay. The examination of this opening was made
in search of a channel, through which, vessels had entered the Strait, and
the schooner was to proceed to her rendezvous. The result proved that the
Adelaide was already in the channel they were looking for, therefore they
returned on board, and proceeded (7th) to the northward. In passing Mount
Joy a strong tide was observed, the certain indication of a channel; for,
as has been before remarked, within sounds the tide has no perceptible
stream. To gain a better knowledge of their way they anchored early in
Good's Bay; the course of the channel, from the intersection of points, and
intervention of islands, being by no means distinct. Lieut. Graves made a
plan of the bay, while {259} Lieut. Skyring, and his assistant,[137]
completed the survey of the entrance to the passage, which was named Smyth
Channel, as a compliment to Capt. W. H. Smyth, R. N., under whom, while
surveying the Mediterranean, both Lieuts. Skyring and Graves had served.
The best channel they found to the eastward of Renouard Island, and the
Adelaide took that course, but stopped a night in a small cove on the
eastern side of the island, and in passing Shoal Island next day struck on
a rock; she was got off however without injury, and anchored afterwards,
for a night, on the north side of the Island of the Narrows.
The two following days (10th and 11th) were spent in examining the coast,
and exploring Clapperton Inlet, which had the appearance of being a
channel. From the hills at the bottom Lieut. Skyring noticed a considerable
tract of low land and open plain, extending to the northward. On the 12th,
being Sunday, they remained quiet, and on the 13th the weather was so calm
that they only reached Hose Harbour, on the east side; and the next day
Oake Bay. Thence crossing the channel in a whaleboat they explored some
distance along that shore; and on the 15th anchored in Otter Bay. This slow
progress was unavoidable, owing to the calm state of the weather, and to
the survey being principally, if not entirely, carried on in boats.
On the 16th the schooner was towed onwards, and passing over an extensive
shoal flat of three fathoms, reached the Summer Islands, where she might
have stopped, but, as the tide was still favourable, she proceeded to an
anchorage under Long Island, the most northern in the Elson group.
The eastern shore of the channel was there very different in character from
what they had so long been accustomed to, being nearly level; and,
extending for some distance off every low point, there was shoal water.
For some days a lofty mountain, covered with snow, had been in sight;
which, by angular measurement, proved to {260} be 5,800 feet in height. It
was named Mount Burney, in compliment to the admiral.
On the 17th the Adelaide reached Fortune Bay, situated at the east extreme
of a headland, on each side of which is a channel, leading, apparently,
towards Cape Isabel. The northern seemed to be the principal one, and
therefore was followed next day (18th) as far as Welcome Bay.
Continuing the survey onwards they reached Victory Passage, which they
entered, thinking they were in the mouth of the 'Ancon sin Salida,' as laid
down from Sarmiento's journal by Admiral Burney. The weather, however,
became so bad, that they were obliged to take shelter in Island Bay, and
the next day the wind setting in from the eastward, they gave up, for a
time, their search for the 'Ancon sin salida,' and proceeded by Smyth
Channel, as far as Hamper Bay, where they were again detained by bad
weather. Here a few rock fish were caught, but at no other time during this
cruise were the fishermen successful, although the channel was so filled by
porpoises and seals, that it is probably well stocked with fish at the
proper season: and there are many places where the seine might be shot.
Proceeding slowly on the 25th, the Adelaide struck on a rock, and remained
fast for a few hours, but as the tide rose she swung off without damage.
Upon examining Rocky Bay they found it a complete bed of rocks; yet, bad as
it was, the Adelaide was obliged to remain there five days, owing to the
tempestuous state of the weather. On the 30th they reached the north end of
Smyth Channel, and anchored in Narrow Creek.
On the 31st Lieut. Skyring went to a remarkable hill, which he called Mount
Trafalgar, but thought it might have been the 'Monte Trigo'[138] of
Sarmiento, so much did its appearance remind him of a corn stack. The day
was most favourable: a round of angles, and an extensive view down Lord
Nelson's Strait, were obtained from the summit. They remained on an island
all night, sheltered by the boat, and next morning went to two points,
called by Sarmiento 'Oueste,' and 'Mas {261} al Oueste,' (west and more
west,) returning to the Adelaide in the evening.
The following morning was fine, and the Adelaide moved out of Smyth
Channel, the survey of which was completed very satisfactorily, although
their progress was slow, owing to constant northerly winds.
By towing the Adelaide during tedious calms, they reached Montague Bay in
the evening, and next day anchored in Relief Harbour, on the S.W. side of
Vancouver Island.
As it was evident that the 'Ancon sin salida' was within Piazzi and Ceres
Islands, up the west coasts of which they had passed, Lieut. Skyring left
the schooner moored in Relief Harbour, and proceeded, on the 4th August, to
the southward, in a whale-boat with Mr. Kirke; but he took no more than a
week's provisions, that time being all he could devote to this exploration.
The 4th, 5th, and 6th, Lieutenant Skyring employed in pulling or sailing to
the southward and eastward, through winding and intricate passages;
although strong winds and much heavy rain annoyed him, and impeded his
progress.
On the 7th the weather was much more favourable than it had lately been.
The boat pulled and sailed to the southward, and at noon Lieutenant Skyring
ascended a height,[139] having on each side of it a deep opening, but he
was disappointed in the view; and, after taking bearings, pulled round the
adjacent bights, one of which was exactly opposite Artist Bay, in Smyth
Channel, and so near it that the two waters were only separated by a few
hundred yards;[140] the other,[141] eastward of the height, was large, and
closed at the bottom by very low lands. It was directly supposed to be the
'Ancon sin Salida;'[142] but Sarmiento's description, and the chart
compiled by Burney, {262} were insufficient to enable them to decide with
any degree of certainty. After looking round this bay, they continued to
the eastward, and passed a point beyond which there was apparently a wide
channel; having run about six miles down it without discovering any
termination, they hauled their boat up on the beach for the night.
On the 8th, two canoes were noticed on the west shore; but seeing strangers
the natives, apparently much frightened, all landed, except an old man; and
taking with them what they most valued, hid themselves among the
brush-wood, leaving their canoes fastened to the sea-weed. By some Fuegian
words of invitation, the men were, however, induced to approach and
traffic, receiving for their otter skins whatever could be spared. In
appearance and manner these Indians were exactly similar to the Fuegians;
and by their canoes only, which were built of planks, could they be
distinguished as belonging to another tribe.
After leaving the natives, the boat passed Cape Earnest, and Lieutenant
Skyring observed a wide channel leading north and then N.N.W.;[143] also,
another opening to the eastward. The wind being easterly, he ran some
distance to the northward, to gain more knowledge of the first inlet; and
having gone ten or twelve miles from Cape Earnest, and observing the
opening for eight miles beyond to be as wide as where they then were, he
concluded it to be a channel, or else a deep sound terminated by low land,
for there was evidently a division in {263} the mountains, such as to
justify this belief. Returning, they entered the smaller opening to the
eastward, and were almost assured of its being a channel; for when they
were between the points, many porpoises and seals were observed, and a tide
was found setting westward, at the rate of two knots. At dark, they hauled
their boat on the beach of an excellent bay, at the north side of the
narrow reach, and secured her for the night.
On the 9th, shortly after daylight, they set out in a N.E. direction to
ascertain the truth of their supposition; and before noon knew, beyond a
doubt, that they were correct in their belief, being in the narrows of a
channel before unknown, that had eluded Sarmiento's notice. These narrows,
which Lieutenant Skyring felt assured would lead to a large opening, were
upwards of three miles in length, and generally about one-third of a mile
in breadth. A strong tide took the boat through; and at the N.E. extremity,
where the narrows were reduced to four hundred yards in width, the water,
although a neap-tide, rushed at the rate of four knots, forming whirling
eddies, which were carefully avoided by Lieutenant Skyring. At spring-tide,
the strength of these rapids would probably not be less than seven knots.
Having passed through them, a clear channel was seen, upwards of two miles
wide, running to the N.b.E. for, at least, eight miles, and then turning
directly eastward, between moderately high land. Another channel, nearly a
mile and a half wide, trended to the S.E. for two or three miles, and then
also turned to the eastward. Here they stopped. Lieutenant Skyring
regretted extremely not being able to prosecute the discovery, and have one
more view from the eastern point of the N.E. channel; but as only one day's
provisions remained, it would have been imprudent to delay his return. It
was evident, that they had passed through the range of the
Cordilleras,[144] for to the eastward the country appeared totally
different, the highest hill not being above seven hundred feet. The opening
to the N.E. was thought to communicate with the 'waters' lately discovered
by Captain Fitz Roy. The latitude {264} was obtained on Point Return; and
in the afternoon, reluctantly but anxiously, they retraced their way, and
passed that night at their former quarters, in Whale-boat Bay.
On the 10th, at daylight, they proceeded on their return. The wind was fair
until they reached Cape Earnest, when it drew right against them; and they
had the unpleasant prospect of a tedious pull to the schooner, with very
little provision.
The 11th was a thoroughly wet day, and the wind was so strong from the
northward, with a very heavy sea running, that it was impossible to
proceed.
On the 12th, they left the bay soon after daylight, and having pulled along
shore a few miles, crossed Union Sound, and gained the Narrows of San
Benito, the wind being still fresh from the northward; thence they
continued pulling until they hauled up, after dark, in a bay, opposite
Point Benito, and waited till the morning of the 13th, when with a fresh
S.W. wind they made good progress, which was of the more consequence, as
their provisions were expended, although they had eked them out with
corvorants and muscles. At last, the sight of the Adelaide rejoiced them,
and they soon afterwards reached her. Their appearance was a relief to all
who were on board, as they were becoming very anxious, and Lieut. Graves
was preparing to send the other whale-boat in search of them. During their
absence he had made the necessary astronomical observations, and finished
the examination of those shores adjacent to the harbours.
From the 13th to the 17th, the schooner was detained by bad weather, and
the following day only succeeded in reaching Escape Bay, in San Estevan
Channel, which was found to be a good and well-sheltered anchorage,
although small.
On the 19th, after angles had been taken on each side of the Channel, the
Adelaide got under weigh, and steered up the Channel. At noon she passed
the mount which they supposed to be Sarmiento's Monte Trigo, and soon
after, nearing Esperanza Island, they sought for some mark by which to
recognise the Mountain of the Fox ('Monte de la Zorra'). In the white part
of a cliff, they fancied some resemblance to an {265} animal, and noticed a
harbour opposite, in which they anchored. They had such trouble in getting
to the northward, that this day's run, though only eighteen miles, was a
cause of much satisfaction.
On the 20th, at daylight, the boats were employed around the anchorage, and
at nine o'clock the vessel was underweigh, and working to the northward,
although it rained hard then, as well as throughout the whole day: after
beating until the evening, she anchored on the west shore.
Constant rain fell through the whole night, and during the 21st; it was
therefore impossible to make any progress to the northward.
On the 22d the Adelaide weighed, and the weather being calm, was towed
during the whole forenoon. At noon a southerly wind sprung up, and by the
evening she was in the Guia Narrows (of Sarmiento). They tried for
anchorage in Unfit Bay, conceiving it to be Sarmiento's Port Ochavario; but
none being found, the vessel was towed into a cove, and securely moored.
Next day the boats surveyed the Guia Narrows. Although long, they did not
appear hazardous to pass, for the tides are not very rapid. The ebb tide
runs to the northward, but at the south entrance of the San Estevan
Channel, the ebb sets to the southward; which difference in direction,
within so short a distance, is extraordinary, and difficult to account for
without knowing more of the coast. Certainly there is a meeting of tides
between the two entrances; probably, all the land westward of San Estevan
is a collection of large islands, and water flows into this channel, from
the Pacific, through many openings, which may be the cause of this
peculiarity.
24th. With light breezes from the eastward, the schooner weighed and stood
through the Narrows; passed Point San Juan, and continued along the eastern
shore of Concepcion Strait to Guard Bay, where she was moored.
25th. Rainy weather until near noon, when the boats were employed.
On the 26th the schooner was towed out, and, as it was calm, {266} kept a
boat a-head the whole day. She anchored in a small bight, formed by Chance
Islands, about seven miles from Guard Bay.
The 27th was rainy, but the boats went to different points, and angles were
taken before the schooner weighed and worked northward. At noon she came to
an anchor in a small bay, northward of the Hocico de Caiman. Constant rain
during the remainder of the day.
On the 28th it rained too incessantly the whole morning, to allow the party
to work, even in boats; and the day was passed in laying down former
observations.
29th. After angles had been taken near the anchorage, the schooner was
moved, and worked along the coast. A strong wind from the N.W., with a
heavy sea, brought the vessel under close-reefed sails, and obliged her to
anchor in Walker Bay.
On the 30th, the Adelaide anchored in Molyneux Sound. To give a clearer
idea of the delays experienced in making progress to the northward through
these intricate channels, I shall now extract part of Lieutenant Skyring's
Journal, in his own words:
"31st. Wind N.N.W. with a heavy swell in the Strait; the boats at daylight
went north and south of the anchorage, and angles were obtained. At nine,
ready for starting; but the weather was too unfavourable, and continued so
until the 4th of September, when, at seven o'clock in the morning, we
weighed. At nine, squally--obliged to double-reef; but the tide serving, we
gained a few miles to windward, and at one, P.M., stood among a mass of
islands on the west side, and moored in Tom's Bay, steadying the vessel
with the stream anchor. In the afternoon the survey was continued, and from
the heights a view was obtained of the Gulf of Trinidad, and of several
points observed last year. Another detention of two days, owing to bad
weather.
"7th. Cloudy; weighed at daylight, and stood for the narrows. At eight,
squally, with thick snowy weather; but, being once under weigh, we
refrained from returning, until compelled. It certainly was not a
favourable day for working {267} through; but the wind moderated, and our
attempt succeeded. No anchorage being found by the boats on the north side
of the narrows, we made for the weather-shore of the gulf, and anchored
early in Windward Bay. In the afternoon, angles were taken on Middle
Island, and east and west of the anchorage. The time of our departure
drawing near, it became doubly necessary to work constantly, that we might
join this survey with that of last year, in the Beagle.
"8th. Weighed at daylight; wind light from N.W.; but, falling calm, boats
were detached for continuing the angles, and the latitude was observed on
Red Beak Rocks. At five o'clock, we gained an anchorage, close to the
eastward of the Ancon del Morro, on the S.E. side of Division Isle, in a
bay which answered our purpose, although it was rather a confined place.
Some angles were taken on Point Candelaria, preparatory to continuing our
course next morning.
"9th. At daylight weighed and stood over to the northern shore, and at
eleven, anchored in Neesham Bay, in eleven fathoms. Boats employed in the
afternoon, on the survey. While at anchor, two canoes, containing together
thirty-two Indians, came alongside; they were chiefly men, a finer race of
people, better formed, and better featured than the Fuegians, and much less
noisy. Their canoes were made of planks, the longest upwards of
twenty-three feet in length: they appeared exceedingly buoyant, and pulled
quickly.
"10th. At daylight, we sailed out of the bay, with a light breeze from the
eastward; at seven, the wind increased, and a heavy sea rose in the gulf.
It was my intention to get an anchorage under Mount Corso; but, as that was
now a leeward coast, with a heavy sea setting upon the shore, it would have
been improper to attempt seeking for one. If it had answered our purpose,
we might have gone to Port Henry, and, indeed, this was the only safe
course we could have pursued, if our object had been to remain in the gulf;
but no time was left to wait for favourable weather; therefore I chose in
preference to leave the gulf, and take advantage of the fair wind to gain
an offing, the time of our return being so near.
{268}
"We left the gulf two days before I had expected to have done so; but we
all rejoiced at our departure. No crew could have performed their duty more
willingly than the Adelaide's; but such lengthened fatigue as they had
undergone, was sufficient to make any men feel happy at the prospect of a
respite.
"It was a pleasing reflection to Lieutenant Graves and myself, that the
orders had been fully executed; that the coast we had passed was throughout
well connected; and that this service was concluded without any illness or
accident among the crew, without any damage to the vessel, without any loss
of boats, or even the slightest misfortune."
During the Adelaide's passage to Chiloe, Lieutenant Skyring and his
companion were assiduously employed in transferring their observations to
paper, notwithstanding the violent motion of their little vessel, during
ten days of rough weather.
* * * * *
{269}