Detention in Port San Antonio--Humming-birds in snow showers--Fuegians--
Geological remarks--Canoes--Carving--Birds--Fish--Shag Narrows--
Glaciers--Avalanches--Natives--Climate--Winter setting in--Adelaide
loses a boat--Floods--Lightning--Scurvy--Adelaide's survey--Bougainville
Harbour--Indians cross the Strait, and visit Port Famine--Sealing vessels
sail--Scurvy increases--Adelaide sent for guanaco meat--Return of the
Beagle--Captain Stokes very ill--Adelaide brings meat from the
Patagonians--Death of Captain Stokes.
Our stay at this port was prolonged beyond my intention by thick snowy
weather and hard gales, which cut off our communication with the shore; for
notwithstanding we were in so sheltered a place, and the vessel had three
anchors down, we did not consider her quite secure against the violent
squalls. We had been fortunate in procuring observations, and took
advantage of our detention to lay down the operations of the preceding days
on paper. Muscles were found in great abundance on the mud flats. There are
three varieties, one of which has a bitter, disagreeable taste, but the
others are exceedingly good and wholesome. One of the latter is of large
size (_Mytilus Magellanicus_ of the Ency. Meth.) The other is of a more
globose form than the bitter sort, and has a very obtuse hinge and margin.
The bitter kind contains pearls, which are valueless, because small, and of
a bad colour.
At first there were plenty of sea-birds[102] in the cove, which took refuge
at the head of the bay; till after two days, they deserted us altogether.
There appeared to be an abundance of fish; but as we had not provided
ourselves with a seine, and they {134} would not take bait, we were
confined for refreshments principally to shell-fish.
No traces of quadrupeds, excepting an Indian dog, were noticed. Here
Wallis's people saw a large cloven-footed animal, which they described to
be as "big as a jack-ass." It was probably a deer, one or two of which had
occasionally appeared at Port Famine.(e)
It has been mentioned that we found many humming-birds at Port San Antonio,
which we attributed to the sheltered situation of the place, and the
luxuriant growth of fuchsias and other plants, upon the sweets of whose
flowers they feed. Here, however, one of the same species was seen sporting
about in a most exposed place and during the falling of a snow shower, a
proof of the hardy character of this little bird, which, if it does migrate
upon the approach of winter to a warmer clime, lingers, at least, as long
as it possibly can. This was the middle of April, the winter had, in fact,
already commenced, and all the mountains around us were clothed with snow,
while the ground was also coated with the same dazzling covering. Mr.
Graves intended to ascend the Mountain de la Cruz; but a heavy fall of snow
prevented the attempt, and we lost the opportunity of obtaining a round of
angles from that elevation, which would have materially assisted our
operations. We should also have obtained a bird's-eye view of the Barbara
Channel and the Sounds on the opposite side of the Strait, whose extent and
nature we did not know; for Cordova's notice of San Simon's Bay, and a deep
inlet which exists to the westward of it, is very unsatisfactory.
There were no signs of a recent visit from the Fuegians, though at the
entrance of the cove we found three or four wigwams in good repair; whence
it seems probable, that the place is one of their frequent haunts. When the
Beagle came here last year, some station staves were left standing; but,
before her return, every one had been removed; and when Captain Stokes went
down the Barbara Channel, to the relief {135} of the Saxe Cobourg's crew,
those staves were seen in the possession of the Indians.
A fine morning (11th) induced us to leave this quiet anchorage, to examine
the openings of the south shore; and in the afternoon, the anchor was
dropped in a convenient place, on the west side of the western inlet, named
by us Warrington Cove. While crossing the bay from Point Elvira, the north
extremity of Cayetano Island, several 'smokes' were observed on the low
land, at the bottom of the inlet; and after we anchored two canoes visited
us, containing six men, four women, and two or three children. They
approached very cautiously, and could not be induced to come alongside. At
last the men landed, and invited us to communicate with them. I therefore
went on shore with two or three officers, and remained with them half an
hour, during which they gradually lost the distrust they had at first
evinced; but each man still carried a number of pebbles in the corner of
his wrapper, ready to repel any attack we might make upon them; from the
knowledge we have since obtained of their character, I think it probable
that they had lately committed some act of aggression on a sealing-vessel,
and were afraid of retaliation. Our conduct tended to assure them of our
friendship; and, shortly after we left the shore, they came alongside in
their canoes, and were very familiar, eagerly bartering their necklaces and
baskets. In their way to us they had probably landed their more valuable
goods, such as otter and seal-skins, as well as their weapons and dogs,
without which they never go far.
The natives of this part are considered by the sealers to be the most
mischievously inclined of any in the Strait, or Tierra del Fuego. The
appearance of our visitors was certainly against them; but they did not
commit themselves during our two or three days' communication, by any act
which could make us complain, or cause suspicion of their honesty and
friendship. We, however, kept too good a look-out, to enable them to take
advantage of our seeming good-nature.
Among bushes behind the high beach were three wigwams, but the Indians had
no intention of remaining with us for the {136} night. They went away, to
our great satisfaction, at an early hour, and returned to the bottom of the
sound, where a large party of their countrymen was assembled. Their
departure enabled us to look round, in the vicinity of our anchorage, and
examine its productions, which differed in no way from those of other parts
of the coast. Its geological structure is, however, different: the rocks
are greenstone, or granite, without slate. Mount Maxwell, rising
immediately over the cove, is the termination of a rocky mountain range,
whose summits are crowned with snow. The verdant sides of the hill,
interspersed at intervals with large masses of bare rock, produced, from a
distance, rather a pleasing effect; but, upon examination, the verdure was
found to consist principally of moss, or a stunted vegetation, covering a
soft and swampy soil. The upper portions of the mount are so precipitous as
not to be easily reached; and, indeed, many parts rise with a perpendicular
ascent for more than a hundred feet. On the south side of Mount Maxwell is
Smyth Inlet, which contains anchorage on the north shore, particularly one
in Earle Cove; but in the centre the water is deep, and on that account, it
is not an inviting place for a ship. During Mr. Graves's absence in Smyth
Harbour, I examined the coast as far as Cape Edgeworth, where I obtained an
extensive set of bearings. The afternoon was particularly favourable for
the purpose, the snow-capped mountains of the north shore were perfectly
distinct; and among them was a very high one, shaped like a Highland
target, the peak of the mountain answering to the central spike of the
shield. We never afterwards saw it, nor could I, on this occasion, fix its
position better, than by estimating its distance. The rock is chiefly
greenstone, accompanied by considerable masses of granite. A little islet,
off Dighton Cove, is composed of granite, of a lamelliform structure. Mr.
Graves brought me a specimen of lamelliform granite attached to a mass of
greenstone.
The Indians visited us every day, their number being generally from twelve
to sixteen, of which five or six only were men, the rest were women, and
children of all ages. One of the latter could not have been more than three
weeks old; yet the {137} mother, apparently about sixteen years of age, was
always occupied in the laborious employment of paddling the canoes. The
child was secured in the mother's lap, with its head on her bosom, by a
mantle, which was drawn tightly round both mother and child. Their canoes
were similar to those of the eastern parts of the Strait, about ten feet
long, holding four or five grown persons and two or three children, besides
their dogs, implements, and weapons: they are formed of bark, and kept in
shape by wooden cross supports secured to the gunwale, which is lined by a
long, slender pole. They are divided into three compartments, the foremost
occupying about one-third of the length, contains the spears, placed ready
for immediate use; in the second are the grown persons, with the fire-place
between them, the men sitting between the fire-place and the spears, to be
ready to use them upon the approach of seals or porpoises; on the opposite
side of the fire-place are seated the women who paddle the canoe, in which
the men sometimes assist, when great expedition is necessary. Behind the
women, in the third division, are the elder children and the dogs, the
younger children being generally stowed away in the women's laps, for the
sake of mutual warmth. The fire is made upon a layer of clay, several
inches thick, at the bottom of the canoe; and above the fire, across the
gunwales, are laid several pieces of half-burnt wood, for fuel.
During our communications with these visitors they conducted themselves
peaceably, and made no attempt to pilfer, although there was some little
roguery displayed by them in barter. One of the men having parted with all
his disposable property, tendered one of his daughters, a fine girl of
fourteen or fifteen years of age, for some mere trifle, and, being refused,
became very pressing and importunate to close the bargain for the price
that was jestingly offered; nor was it without difficulty that he was
convinced we were not in earnest. They were as poor as the rest of their
countrymen, very badly clothed, and possessing few skins to barter. Two of
them exchanged their otter skin mantles for cotton shirts, which they
continued to wear without complaining of cold.
{138}
As their visits lasted all day they always brought their food, consisting
of the blubber of seals and porpoises. The method used by them in cutting
it up is nearly similar to that adopted by the Esquimaux Indians, as
described by Sir Edward Parry in his second voyage, and also resembles the
process of the natives of King George's Sound, which I have described in
the account of my survey of Australia (vol. ii. p. 140): a piece of blubber
being held in the left hand, a corner of it is taken between the teeth, and
it is then cut by a knife, held underhanded, into strips backward and
forward, without passing the instrument entirely through: so that when the
operation is finished the piece draws out into a long band, about an inch
thick, formed by the connected strips. The whole affair from first to last
is most offensive to the sight; and the countenance of the carver is beyond
description, for his eyes being directed to the blubber, squint shockingly,
and give his ugly face a hideous appearance. The strip of blubber is next
divided among the party, each of whom proceeds to extract its oily juices
by drawing it through his teeth and sucking it, after which it is warmed in
the fire to facilitate its division into small pieces, which are swallowed
or bolted without mastication. Morsels of this dainty food were given not
only to the elder children, but even to infants at the breast.
On the 14th, while preparing to weigh, the Indians came on board and helped
to heave in the cable, but without rendering us much real assistance. When
the sails were loosed, the women in the canoes began to chatter and scream
for fear we should carry off their friends, and their alarm was no sooner
given than the deck was cleared of our visitors, who seemed to be quite as
much frightened for their safety as the women were. In a few minutes
afterwards we were proceeding to the southward, and first tried to anchor
in a bay on the south side of Smyth Harbour, but finding the depth too
great, I sent Lieut. Graves to sound behind an islet where there were
indications of a place of shelter, but he returned unsuccessful. During his
absence I went to a very narrow passage, which he had discovered, leading
to a large channel or sound; but finding it {139} intricate, I deferred
trying to enter with the vessel until a more favourable opportunity should
offer, and we returned to the place south of Warrington Cove, called
Dighton Bay, where we anchored off a sandy beach in twenty fathoms, and
secured the vessel by laying the kedge on the shore. This sandy beach was
the first we had found in the eastern part of the Strait. The sand is
quartzose, of a white colour, and being a novelty, rendered the place
interesting. A stream, supplied by the ravines of Mount Maxwell, runs over
the beach into the sea, and from it an abundant supply of excellent water
may be obtained without difficulty.
We observed no quadrupeds; but, of the feathered tribe, we found
woodpeckers, kingfishers, and woodcocks, and in the sheltered nooks several
humming-birds were darting about the flowery underwood of berberis,
fuchsia, and arbutus. In the tide-way, at the narrow passage, the sea
teemed with fish; over which hovered corvorants and other sea-fowl, preying
upon the small fry that were trying to elude their voracious enemies, the
porpoises and seals, thousands of which were seen sporting about as we
proceeded on our way. Whales were also numerous in the vicinity, probably
because of an abundance of the small red shrimp, which constitutes their
principal food.
I went again to examine the passage, and the tide being against us, we were
obliged to pull close to the western shore to benefit by the partial
eddies, otherwise we could not have proceeded until the turn of the tide.
These narrows, named 'Shag' Narrows, from the quantity of birds there so
called by seamen, are not a hundred yards wide. The south end is fronted by
an island, from whose summit, about four hundred feet high, I hoped to
obtain a good view southward, and after passing the narrows we landed and
reached the summit. While looking around at the view, and preparing the
theodolite, a woodcock started up from the long grass and walked away so
leisurely, that Mr. Tarn nearly succeeded in striking it with a stick. This
bird afforded us a name for the station, which we found to be at the
northern side of a large basin, ten miles wide, and six long, terminated at
{140} its south end by a channel leading to the open sea, but crowded with
islands and rocks. A deep inlet or chasm in the land, at the N.W. corner of
this basin, was filled with masses of floating ice, broken from an enormous
glacier.
After obtaining all the bearings and embarking, we pulled three miles to
the westward, and took a round of angles at Point Cairncross, the
south-west point of Field's Bay, and again another set at the south head of
Icy Sound, near Dinner Cove, where we found a very convenient anchorage for
small vessels. Through Icy Sound we found some difficulty in penetrating,
as the channel was much obstructed by ice.
Three miles within this sound the rocky shore became more precipitous, and
at two miles farther, where the width across was not more than one hundred
and fifty yards, the rocks rise perpendicularly on each side to the height
of seven or eight hundred feet. Beyond this remarkable part the channel
opens out to a basin about half a mile in diameter, bounded by a sloping
glacier, from which immense masses of ice broke off frequently, and falling
with a noise like the discharge of a ship's broadside, threw up the foaming
water with terrific violence.
As we entered the basin, we were startled by a sudden roar, occasioned by
the fall of one of these avalanches, followed by echoes which reverberated
round the basin and among the mountains. We remained for half an hour
afterwards waiting for another fall, but were not gratified. Several were
heard at a distance, probably high up the sides of the glacier. The
examination of Icy Sound occupied us until dark, when we returned to the
schooner.
During our absence, Indians had again visited the Adelaide, the greater
number of whom were strangers. We had also seen a party in a canoe close to
Mount Woodcock, who were striking seal, and too intent upon their object to
pay much attention to any thing else.
On the 16th, the term of our absence having expired, we left Dighton Bay on
our return: at night we anchored in St. Nicholas Bay, and the day after
arrived at Port Famine. {141} Natives had discovered and visited the ship
while I was away, but Lieut. Wickham did not encourage them to remain; and
two or three attempts to pilfer being detected, they were treated with very
little ceremony; so finding their company was not desired, they went across
the Strait to Lomas Bay, where for several days afterwards the smoke of
their fires was seen. They were the same Indians whom we had met at Port
San Antonio.
That these Indians should be received so coolly, may seem to have been
impolitic on our side, when it is considered that our smaller vessels and
boats might be met with, and their crews ill-treated by way of retaliation.
It was, however, time that they should know our superiority; for, of late,
several very treacherous attacks had been made by them on sealing vessels,
and this party was the most forward and insolent we had seen. One of them
was teazing several of the men to box, an accomplishment he had probably
learnt from the crews of sealing vessels; among others, he fixed upon the
serjeant of marines, who very unceremoniously pushed him over the side, and
made him return to his canoe, which he resented by pushing off from the
ship's side, and throwing a stone at the serjeant, who was standing at the
gangway. As it missed him, and did no harm, no notice was taken of his
mischief. We afterwards heard that the same party had visited Bougainville
Harbour, where the Adeona was at anchor; but as Mr. Low neither gave them
encouragement to remain, nor permitted them to go on board his brig, they
very soon went away.
The difference between the climates of the western and eastern portions of
the Strait was very striking. To the westward the country, being
principally clothed with evergreens, such as the smooth-leaved beech, and
Winter's-bark, with an underwood of arbutus and berberis, seems to possess
a constant verdure, nor until the snow covers all, does it assume any thing
like the appearance of winter. To the eastward, evergreens are less common,
their place being occupied by the beech (_Fagus Antarctica_), whose leaves
fall very early. Snow had also begun to cover the lower grounds, giving
signs of winter. April {142} terminated with finer weather than we had
experienced for some weeks, but May set in with north-easterly winds and
much rain, succeeded by a heavy fall of snow.
"Tristis hyems montes niveo velamine vestit."
As yet the thermometer had not been very low. On one or two occasions it
had fallen during the night to 28deg, but generally it ranged between 45deg
and 33deg.
The Adelaide was again despatched on the 30th April, to carry on an
examination of the openings on each side of Cayetano Island; but she
returned on the 21st of May, with the disagreeable intelligence of having
had her only serviceable boat stolen by the Indians. This was a serious
loss, not only on account of so much time being thrown away, but also
because we had no other boat to substitute for her. To prevent delay, I
sent to Mr. Low, at Bougainville Harbour, requesting that he would sell one
of his boats; but he was himself so badly off, from similar losses, that he
could only assist us by lending one for a few weeks, and as it was the only
boat he possessed, it could not be spared to go far from his vessel. I,
therefore, despatched Mr. Graves, in the Adelaide, to Bougainville Harbour,
to employ himself in examining the coast thence to Cape Froward, and in the
mean time began to build a whale-boat, to be ready for the Adelaide's use
as soon as winter had passed over; for, from Mr. Graves's report of the
state of the climate to the westward, very little could be done during the
winter months.
The following is Lieut. Graves's account of the loss of his boat:--Upon
leaving Port Famine he proceeded at once to Port Gallant, and surveyed
Cordes Bay; after which he crossed the Strait to St. Simon's Bay, and
anchored in Millar Cove, on its western side, immediately to the north of
Port Langara, from which it is only separated by a narrow neck of land. The
Adelaide remained there at anchor while Mr. Graves visited the different
parts of the bay. Her presence had attracted a large party of Indians, who,
occupying several wigwams near the entrance of the cove, paid daily visits
to {143} our people, and were apparently very familiar and well-disposed.
But they had cast a longing eye on the whale-boat, which, when equipped for
service, contained many things very useful to them, and they laid a plan to
carry her off, which succeeded. One evening she was prepared for going away
at an early hour the following day, and, to save time, every thing that
might be required was placed in her, and she was made fast for the night.
Two or three Indians were then on board, and observing what was done, laid
their plan, and at sunset took their leave as usual. The night was pitchy
dark, and at nine o'clock the boat was missed from alongside. The alarm was
given, and instant search made at the wigwams of the Indians, who had all
decamped, without leaving the least trace of themselves or the boat. The
'painter,' or rope by which she had been fastened to the vessel, had been
cut through with some sharp instrument, most probably a knife, which our
people had sharpened for them on the grindstone that very day.
Every possible search was made next morning, but without success; the boat
that was left was one which could not be used with any advantage, and Mr.
Graves returned to Port Famine. Vexatious as the accident was, I could not
blame him for what had occurred, for no one had suspicions of such conduct
from the Indians, who, on all other occasions, had kept at a distance from
us after night-fall. The boat was properly secured alongside, and the night
was so cold that no person would have thought the Indians would expose
themselves to such a temperature (28deg); for they must have swum alongside
to cut her adrift, and then must have towed her away very gradually, to
prevent the theft being discovered, for there were two persons walking the
deck at the time.
Mr. Tarn, who accompanied Mr. Graves on this occasion, brought me a very
fine sea-eagle (_Polyborus Novae Zealandiae_), and some other birds, and a
specimen from a shrub which we had not before observed, a species of
_Desfontanea_.
In order to prevent a similar loss in future, the Adelaide {144} was
forthwith fitted with cranks outside, for hoisting up her boats when in
harbour.
Winter advanced rapidly; the ground was constantly covered with snow, from
one to two feet deep, and every night more fell. In the early part of June
we had a gale of wind from the N.W., which flooded the low ground upon
which our tents stood; but fortunately the large tent had been accidentally
placed on a higher part, and escaped. This flood filled, and, of course,
spoiled the water in all the ponds about the tents; and we had afterwards
to procure our supplies from a considerable distance.
On the 8th of June much lightning was observed to the northward, and
repeated rumbling noises were heard, which continued for long periods; one
lasted distinctly for the space of twenty minutes. At first, they were
thought to be eruptions of some distant volcano; but, from the frequent
lightning, they were probably echoes of thunder, reverberating through the
deep ravines that intersect the rocky ridges of the Cordillera, from which
we were distant at least one hundred and fifty miles.
A succession of bad weather followed, during which the barometer fluctuated
rapidly. On the 14th, the mercury fell to 28. 17. inches, after which it
gradually rose, with fine settled weather, until it reached 30. 50., when
bad weather again set in. The people at the tents experienced another
inundation. Had the water risen six inches more, it would have carried
every thing away; and as the wind was blowing dead upon the shore, while a
heavy surf was beating upon the beach, we could have rendered them very
little assistance from the ship.
The severity of the weather brought a most disagreeable accompaniment.
Scurvy appeared, and increased; while the accidental death of a seaman,
occasioned by falling down a hatchway, followed by the decease of two
others, and also of Mr. Low, of the Adeona, whose body was brought to me
for burial, tended to create a despondency amongst the crew that I could in
no way check. The monotony of their occupations, the chilling and gloomy
appearance of the country, and the severity of the climate, all tended to
increase the number of the {145} sick, as well as the unfavourable symptoms
of their disease. The Beagle's term of absence was, however, drawing to a
close, and I caused a rumour to be spread, that upon her appearance we
should quit Port Famine. To give a semblance of reality to this report, the
topmasts were ordered to be fidded, and the ship otherwise prepared for
sea, which had a manifest effect upon the scorbutic, of whom several were
in a bad stage of that horrid disease, and many others were just attacked.
We found ourselves now, too, thrown on our own resources for fresh food:
scarcely a fish was taken with the hook, and the seine, although frequently
shot, never caught anything. Of birds, only a few hawks and small finches
were procured, which were all reserved for the sick, the greater number of
whom lived on shore, at the tents, where they might walk about, and amuse
themselves as they pleased.
The Adelaide returned from Bougainville Harbour on the 18th of June, having
succeeded in the object for which she was sent. The extremity of Cape
Froward, a bluff head, over which is a round-topped hill (precisely the
French 'Morre') is what Sarmiento called the Morro de Santa Agueda. Any
name given by this excellent old navigator is too classical and valuable to
be omitted; therefore, while the extremity itself may retain the modern
appellation of Cape Froward, the mountain by which it is formed may still
be allowed to keep his distinction. Behind it, the land rises to a higher
ridge, the edge of which is remarkably serrated, and probably of a slaty
character.
The specimens procured from the Cape were clay-slate, much intermixed with
iron pyrites, and crossed by small veins of white quartz. Of the anchorages
examined by Mr. Graves, Bougainville Harbour, better known to sealers by
the name of Jack's Cove, or Harbour, is the most sheltered.
It is surrounded on all sides by high precipitous hills, thickly clothed
with trees. The depth is moderate, and the water so beautifully clear, that
the anchors, and even shells and stones, were distinctly seen upon the
bottom. It was here that Bougainville procured wood for the use of the
settlement {146} at the Falkland Islands. Captain Stokes says of this
place: "After seeing the abundant supplies of timber which Freshwater Bay
and Port Famine afford, I had shared in the surprise which Byron expresses,
that any one should have come so far up the Strait to get it; but on
examining the spot, I found that a happier selection could not have been
made. It is a little cove, just round the eastern point of the Bay of San
Nicolas, about a hundred yards wide and three times as long. Here, moored
to the shore, a ship may lie in eight fathoms, perfectly sheltered from any
wind, the water as smooth as in a wet-dock. Shapely trees, of all
dimensions, are growing within a few yards of the shore; and the wood, when
felled, may be hoisted on board from the beach, by tackles from the
yard-arms. Here, too, with very little trouble, a supply of water may be
got from the many streams that make their way through the underwood which
skirts the cove. As we pulled up this sequestered nook, the unusual sound
of our oars and voices put to flight multitudes of birds, and the surface
of the water was broken by the jumping of fine fish. Some very eatable
geese were shot. Our stay was too short to admit of hauling the seine; but
my boat's crew contrived to half-fill the boat with excellent muscles and
limpets, which are found here in great plenty."
The geological character of the coast between Cape St. Isidro and San
Nicolas Bay is clay-slate; near the beach, however, this rock is not
visible, since it is there covered with a kind of breccia of rounded
pebbles, in an indurated sandy rock, of green colour. The pebbles are
principally of slate; but some were found to be of granite and other
quartzose rock, perhaps greenstone.
One of the headlands, called by M. Bougainville Cape Remarquable, was
examined by Mr. Graves for fossil shells, of which the French navigator
speaks. Half the rock was beaten to pieces, without detecting anything like
organic remains. Living shells were in the greatest abundance about the
base of the Cape, but that is the case every where. The species generally
found are limpets and muscles, but with little variety and no novelty.
{147}
On the 21st of June, after a heavy north-east gale, we had an unusually
fine day. The hills at the bottom of Magdalen Channel were more distinct
than we had ever noticed them, and Mount Sarmiento was particularly clear;
indeed its outline was so sharply defined, that the distance did not appear
to be more than ten miles. This extraordinary transparency of the air was
at first considered a presage of wet weather; yet the clear and sharp
appearance of the distant land was unlike that which usually precedes a
fall of rain. The long series of rainy weather we had experienced made us
look for a good result from such an unusual atmosphere, and we were not
deceived. The following day our hopes were still further confirmed by
seeing three Indian canoes, coming across the Strait, towards us, from
Lomas Bay, which they would not have attempted had they not been sure of
its continuing fine; for their canoes are ill adapted to encounter the
short cross sea found during bad weather in mid-channel of the Strait.
Although the presence of the natives did not in general please me, because
it naturally put a stop to all work; yet, on this occasion it was
agreeable, as it tended in some measure to enliven the monotonous manner in
which we passed our days.
Upon reaching the bay, the Indians did not approach the ship, but paddled
into the coves under Point Santa Anna, where our boat was employed
watering. Mr. Graves went to them, to prevent mischief, and found they were
the same party who had before visited us. When our boats returned, they
paddled over to the wigwam at the head of the port, about a quarter of a
mile beyond our tents, and began to repair it, and by sunset were housed
and sheltered for the night. We had, however, so lately experienced their
treacherous disposition, that no confidence was placed in appearances.
Sentinels were posted at the tents, to give the alarm, should any of them
approach; and at eight o'clock a volley of musketry was fired, by way of
intimidation, and to impress them with the idea that we kept a watch upon
their movements, and were prepared.
While the wigwams were repairing, a few of the Indians visited our tents;
but were not allowed to pass within a rope {148} that, by my orders, was
stretched around our property, a restriction which they did not attempt to
evade. At sunset all were told to go away, and they immediately, as well as
cheerfully, complied.
The next morning, and indeed throughout the whole day, the neighbourhood of
the wigwams exhibited the appearance of a fair. I visited them, and found
that they had not only repaired an old wigwam, but erected another. Both
together contained the whole party, consisting of twenty-six individuals,
among whom were an old man, and two old women. They had brought over a
collection of baskets, bows and arrows, stone heads of knives, &c. to sell
to our people, who had always shown eagerness to possess these curiosities.
The knife-heads were made generally of pitch-stone; but the greater number
were of broken glass bottles, which they had collected when they visited us
last year. A few strings of beads purchased all their riches; after which
they sold their dogs, and Mr. Graves procured one of them for a knife and a
string of beads. It was a remarkably fine animal, and showed great
reluctance to be handled by our people, several of whom were bitten in
their attempts to take him to the boat.
At night one of the canoes was despatched to collect shell-fish, probably
sea-eggs, from the reef of Rocky Bay. The following morning all their goods
were embarked, and then they paddled their canoes to the beach, near the
tents, where some of their men landed. They had nothing to offer in
exchange for several things which tempted them, and were beginning to grow
troublesome. One of them, the individual who threw a stone at the sergeant,
persisting to pass the boundary that was marked upon the ground, which no
one of them had before presumed to do, was pushed back by the sentinel;
upon which he ran to his canoe and took out several spears, doubtless
intending to try to force a passage; but the appearance of two or three
muskets brought him to his senses, and the spears were returned to the
canoe; after which he became familiar, and apparently friendly. This
affair, however, was soon followed by their departure, which gave me much
{149} satisfaction. They went southward, landing for the night in Voces
Bay, and the following day went to the Adeona, in Bougainville Harbour,
where they remained some days.
The day after the Indians left us, a boat came from the Adeona, to acquaint
us that, in a day or two, she and her companions, the Uxbridge and Mercury,
intended to leave the Strait for the Falkland Islands; upon which I
prepared letters for England, and a report of my proceedings for the
Secretary of the Admiralty. The ships passed by on the 30th, and took my
letters.
This last month (June) set in with snow or rain, which continued until the
11th, when the weather assumed a very threatening appearance. On the 14th
the barometer fell to 29. 27, and the wind blew a hard gale from N.E.; but
in the afternoon it veered round to S.W., and the mercury rose rapidly. A
gale from S.W. followed, and then to the end of the month we had a series
of moderate weather, but much snow. The mean temperature for June was
32deg,97 the range being between 19deg,2 and 48deg,7.
July commenced with an unusually low temperature and a high barometer; the
former, on the 4th was 12deg,2, and the latter, at the same time, at 30,5
inches, having risen since the 14th of June 1.82 of an inch. After this we
had a few mild and fine days, but paid dearly for them; a northerly gale
set in, bringing with it unwholesome damp weather, in which the temperature
rose to between 35deg and 42deg, and melted much of the snow that had
covered the ground, quite to the water's edge, during the last two months.
Our sick-list, particularly of cases of scurvy, increased so much, during
this damp, trying weather, that I determined upon sending the Adelaide to
the northward, to procure a supply of fresh meat from the Patagonians; and,
at the same time, to survey that part of the Strait lying between Cape
Negro and the Second Narrow.
Lieutenants Graves and Wickham, and Mr. Tarn, went upon this service, the
latter being most anxious to procure some change of diet for the sick under
his care, for some of whom he was much alarmed. The appearance and severity
of this {150} disease, although every precaution had been used, and
subsequent attention paid to their diet, are not easy to account for: fresh
provisions, bread baked on board, pickles, cranberries, large quantities of
wild celery, preserved meats and soups, had been abundantly supplied; the
decks were kept well-aired, dry, and warm, but all to no purpose; these
precautions, perhaps, checked the disease for a time; but did not prevent
it, as had been fully expected.
The Adelaide sailed on the 16th of July, with every prospect of fine
weather. The same evening, an American sealing schooner anchored near us,
on her way to Staten Land. She had entered the Straits by Cutler and Smyth
Channels, and in forty-eight hours arrived at Port Famine. After obtaining
some trifling assistance from our forge, she sailed.
On the 25th, three new cases of scurvy appeared, one being the
assistant-surgeon, which increased our sick-list to fourteen. Feeling the
necessity of doing something, I ordered the hands to be turned up, 'Prepare
ship for sea!' No sooner had the words escaped the boatswain's lips, than
all was life, energy, and delight. The preliminary preparations were made,
and every one looked forward with pleasure to the change, except myself. I
had hoped to pass the twelve months at Port Famine, with the intention of
completing a meteorological journal, for which this place afforded peculiar
advantages. My plan was, on the Beagle's return, to despatch her and the
schooner along the West Coast, and join them in the Adventure at Chiloe.
As our departure was now supposed to depend on the Beagle's arrival, every
eye was on the stretch to watch for her, and every morning some one of our
party ascended the heights, to look out. On the 27th she was seen, beating
up from the southward; but as the wind was contrary, she did not anchor in
the bay until the evening. Her return was greeted with three most hearty
cheers; but on passing under our stern, Lieutenant Skyring informed me that
Captain Stokes was confined to his cabin by illness, and could not wait on
me. I therefore went to the Beagle, and found Captain Stokes looking very
ill, and in low spirits. He expressed himself much distressed by the {151}
hardships the officers and crew under him had suffered; and I was alarmed
at the desponding tone of his conversation. He told me that the Beagle had
been up the western coast as high as Cape Tres Montes, in latitude 47deg,
had surveyed the Gulf of Penas and other portions of the coast,
particularly Port Henry, at Cape Three Points, the entrance of the Gulf of
Trinidad, and Port Santa Barbara, at the north end of Campana Island.
During the survey of the Gulf of Penas they had experienced very severe
weather, both stormy and wet, during which the Beagle's crew were
incessantly employed, and had consequently suffered greatly. Captain Stokes
seemed not to have spared himself. He appeared much gratified by my
visiting him, and before we parted he was for a time restored to his usual
energy, detailing the circumstances of the voyage, and conversing upon the
plan of our future operations with considerable animation.
The return of the Beagle cheered our ship's company, and on the 30th the
Adelaide came back, with a large quantity of guanaco meat, which had been
procured from the Patagonian Indians at Peckett's Harbour.
When the Adelaide anchored there, about thirty natives appeared on the
shore. Mr. Tarn landed, and communicated our wants, saying that he would
give tobacco and knives for as much guanaco meat as they could procure;
with them was the Fuegian, who seemed to be a leading man, and to have
become one of the most active of the party. He was the principal spokesman,
and upon commencing the hunt he pointed to the snow upon the ground, and
called it 'bueno' (good), because it would show the traces of the animals,
and the direction they had taken. Mr. Wickham thus described to me the
manner in which they hunted: Two men ascended a hill, placed themselves one
at each end of its summit, and stood motionless for some time, on the
look-out. As soon as guanacoes were seen, their position and movements were
communicated, by signs, to the men in the valley, who were thus enabled to
approach their game unawares. The guanacoes are taken with the bolas, which
entangle their legs and throw them down. As soon as they are killed, {152}
they are skinned and cut up. The first night seven hundred pounds of meat
were brought, and two thousand and forty-six pounds were obtained in a few
days.
This ample change of diet inspired me with the hope that our sick, at least
those affected by scurvy, would recover, and that after another large
supply, which we now knew how to obtain, we might be enabled to prosecute
our voyage as was first intended. All hands were therefore allowed fresh
meat for a week, and the residue was placed at the disposal of the surgeon,
for the use of the sick, but all ineffectually; the list still increased,
and Lieutenant Wickham, with a violent cold, and Mr. Rowlett, with scurvy,
were added to it. The assistant-surgeon's became the worst case of scurvy
on board; and our people, finding that the preparations for quitting the
place were not going on, began to despond again. Captain Stokes was anxious
to prepare his vessel for another cruize, being very averse to giving up
our plans and returning to Monte Video, since he thought the crews, from
utter disgust at the privations and hardships they had endured, would not
be persuaded to go on another voyage; but that if they were to go to Chiloe
or Valparaiso, to refresh, they might recover their strength and spirits,
and be willing to renew the survey; which, however, he himself seemed to
dread, for he never mentioned the subject without a shudder. He was
evidently much excited, and suspicions arose in my mind that all was not
quite right with him. I endeavoured to prevail on him to give his people a
longer rest, but he was the more anxious to make preparations. On the 31st
July he sent an application for provisions, and in the evening I received a
note from him, which was written in his former usual flow of spirits. The
officers, however, knew more of the diseased state of his mind than I did;
and it was owing to a hint given to me, that I desired Mr. Tarn to
communicate with Mr. Bynoe, and report to me whether Captain Stokes's
health was sufficiently restored to enable him to commence another cruize.
This was on the 1st of August. The provisions had been sent, in compliance
with his application, and the surgeons were on board the Adventure, {153}
considering upon their report, which was, as I afterwards found, very
unfavourable, when a boat came from the Beagle, with the dreadful
intelligence that Captain Stokes, in a momentary fit of despondency, had
shot himself.
The surgeons instantly repaired on board, and finding him alive, had
recourse to every means in their power, but without hope of saving his
life. During the delirium that ensued, and lasted four days, his mind
wandered to many of the circumstances, and hair-breadth escapes, of the
Beagle's cruize. The following three days he recovered so much as to be
able to see me frequently; and hopes were entertained by himself, but by no
one else, that he would recover. He then became gradually worse, and after
lingering in most intense pain, expired on the morning of the 12th.
Thus shockingly and prematurely perished an active, intelligent, and most
energetic officer, in the prime of life. The severe hardships of the
cruize, the dreadful weather experienced, and the dangerous situations in
which they were so constantly exposed--caused, as I was afterwards
informed, such intense anxiety in his excitable mind, that it became at
times so disordered, as to cause the greatest apprehension for the
consequences. On the return of the Beagle he got better; and the officers
were so sanguine in hoping for his complete restoration to health, on
account of his progressive recovery, that nothing which had transpired was
communicated to me until after his decease.
His remains were interred at our burial-ground, with the honours due to his
rank, and a tablet was subsequently erected to his memory.
* * * * *
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