Account of the Beagle's cruize--Borja Bay--Cape Quod--Stuart Bay--Cape
Notch--Remarks on weather, and errors of Chart--Evangelists--Santa
Lucia--Madre de Dios--Gulf of Trinidad--Port Henry--Puma's track--
Humming-birds--Very bad weather--Campana Island--Dangers--Gale--Wet--
Sick--Santa Barbara--Wager's beam--Wigwams--Guaianeco Islands--Cape Tres
Montes--St. Paul's--Port Otway--Hoppner Sound--Cape Raper.
The following account of the Beagle's cruize is drawn up from Captain
Stokes's unfinished journal, and from detached memoranda, which were found
amongst his papers.
It will be recollected that, on my departure from Port Famine, in the
Adelaide, in the month of March, to survey portions of the southern side of
the Strait, I left instructions with Captain Stokes to proceed in the
execution of his orders as soon as the Beagle was ready. The details of
those orders it is unnecessary to repeat here, as they were performed to my
entire satisfaction; it will be merely requisite, as briefly as possible,
to follow him through a most arduous and distressing service. It is the
sequel that embitters the record.
"On the 18th of March, I sailed from Port Famine, and next day reached Port
Gallant.
"On the 23d, we anchored in the little cove called Borja Bay, which, though
very confined, and rather difficult of access, suited our purpose extremely
well. (See Sailing Directions). While there we measured the height of one
of the principal hills in the neighbourhood, and found it 1,800 feet.
"Bad weather detained us until the 26th, when we passed Cape Quod, and
reached Stuart Bay. Many places were left unexamined, because my object was
to hasten westward before the year was farther advanced.
"(27th.) We left Stuart Bay, and continued our progress to the westward,
with westerly winds, thick weather, and rain. {155} The shores of the
Straits were seldom visible to us, from a thick mist with which they were
clouded: it is, however, a bold coast on each side, otherwise the Strait
would be utterly unnavigable in such weather. Near Cape Notch the mountains
spire up into peaks of great height, singularly serrated, and connected by
barren ridges. About their bases there are generally some green patches of
jungle; but, upon the whole, nothing can be more sterile and repulsive than
the view. This afternoon we passed Playa Parda, and in the evening anchored
in Marian Cove.
"In the course of the next day the wind freshened to a strong and squally
gale from the W.N.W., with much rain; the weather was so thick that we
could scarcely make out the coast. In this kind of weather, the lower parts
of the shore are screened from view by mist, and the upper ones are seen
looming through it in lofty masses, in a manner which would lead a stranger
to believe that the ship was completely environed with islands.
"In the evening we anchored in the little cove called Half Port Bay, and
next morning resumed our daily struggle against wind, tide, and weather.
"We crossed the mouth of a deep sound on the north shore,[103] where no
tide or current was remarked: the delineation of the coast about this point
is particularly defective in the old charts; fortunately, however, for the
navigator, he has here to deal with shores where the omission of a whole
island, or even the addition of a few that do not exist, is of less
consequence to his safety than the exact limit of one sand-bank in other
parts of the world. This night we anchored in Upright Bay, which, though
affording excellent shelter from the prevailing winds, is bad with a
southerly one; as, from the steepness of the bottom requiring a vessel to
anchor close to the shore, sufficient scope is not left for veering cable.
"Sheltered by the high land under which we were anchored, {156} with the
exception of occasional gusts down the ravines and sounds, we had the wind
light at W.S.W.; but the rapid travelling of the scud over-head showed that
the usual weather prevailed. We weighed early next morning (30th), and by
noon had reached so far to the westward that the easternmost of the round
islands in Cape Tamar Bight bore north about two miles. By nightfall we
were off Cape Cortado; but the weather seeming settled and the wind drawing
to the southward, I resolved to keep under weigh, and try to get out to sea
that night. Circumstances favoured us; the weather was fine, the moon
remained unclouded, and the wind held at S.S.W. An hour after midnight Cape
Pillar bore W.S.W., distant about two miles, and thence we shaped our
course for the Evangelists, which we passed at the distance of a mile.
"The Evangelists, as they are called by the early Spanish voyagers, or as
they were afterwards named (1670) by Sir John Narborough, the Isles of
Direction,[104] are a group of four rocky islets, and some detached rocks
and breakers, occupying altogether a space of three miles; they are
exceedingly rugged and barren, and suited only to afford a resting-place
for seals and oceanic birds. From the heavy sea prevalent there, and the
raging surf that generally breaks around, landing on them can be rarely
practicable; yet sealers effect it. The mate of a sealing vessel told me
that he had landed on the largest in a whale-boat, and killed several
thousand seals. The Evangelists are of sufficient height to be seen in
clear weather from a ship's deck, at the distance of six or seven leagues,
but the superior elevation of the coast on both sides will usually render
it visible, before these islands can be observed.
"Immediately on rounding the Evangelists a cape was distinguished,
appearing to terminate the northern coast line, which we made out to be
'Cape Isabel' of the Spanish charts. It is a steep, rocky promontory of
great height, having at its base some detached columnar masses of rock, and
at its summit a peak, and a serrated ridge; off it is a steep-sided island,
{157} which proved to be that (Beagle Island) of which Lieut. Skyring and I
took the bearing last year, when we were on the summit of Cape Victory.
"Northward of Cape Victory the land forms a deep bight, of which Cape Santa
Lucia is the north-eastern headland. The coast in the interval is
exceedingly rugged and mountainous. Cape Santa Lucia may be distinguished
by a portion of flat table-land, about one-third of the altitude of the
mountain from which it proceeds, and terminating at its outer face with a
perpendicular precipice.
"The coast between Capes Isabel and Santa Lucia is dangerous to approach
nearer than ten miles, for there are within that distance many sunken
rocks, on which the sea only occasionally breaks. Some of these breakers
were seen to seaward of us, as we proceeded along the coast, at the
distance of five or six miles. When off Santa Lucia, whales were very
numerous around us.
"The general aspect of this portion of the coast is similar to that of the
most dreary parts of the Magalhaenic regions: bare, rugged, rocky, and
mountainous, intersected by inlets, and bordered by islets, rocks, and
breakers.
"The information we possessed respecting the prevalent winds on this coast
was very scanty; yet, since all we could procure represented them as
prevailing from the northward and north-westward, I considered it advisable
to take advantage of the present southerly wind to proceed to the northern
part of the coast assigned for our survey, instead of stopping to explore
the bight between Cape Isabel and Cape Santa Lucia.
"From the bearings at sunset,[105] we ran along the land with bright
moonlight, sounding every hour; and at daylight were about ten miles from
the Island of Madre de Dios.
"We closed the land and proceeded to the northward, keeping at a distance
of about three miles off shore, sounding {158} between twenty-eight and
thirty-three fathoms, sandy bottom. The weather was clear and fine, and we
were enabled to make observations, and take the bearings and angles,
necessary for laying down the coast satisfactorily.
"At noon we were in latitude 50deg 12' south, and in the meridian of Cape
Tres Puntas, between which and a cape bearing from us N. 13deg E.
(magnetic), distant eight miles, there was evidently an inlet: this cape is
marked on the chart as Cape William. The character of the land is the same
with that which we had hitherto passed, bare, rugged, rocky mountains, with
peaks, and sharply serrated ridges. From daylight to noon we had run
twenty-one miles along the coast; in that interval only one inlet was seen,
which was in the latitude of 50deg 27' south, agreeing well with the 'West
Channel' of the Spanish chart. It was four miles wide at its mouth, and
appeared to follow a winding course to the eastward. The land of Cape Tres
Puntas curved in to the eastward, until it closed with Cape William; at
dusk we were abreast of Cape William, and two leagues off shore, where we
lay-to till daylight, as I wished to examine the inlet between it and Cape
Tres Puntas, which subsequently proved to be Sarmiento's Gulf of Trinidad.
The old navigator thus describes its discovery:
"'At daylight, 17th of March, 1579, in the name of the most holy Trinity,
we saw land, bearing E.S.E., ten leagues distant, towards which we steered
to explore it. At mid-day, being near the land, we observed the latitude
49-1/2deg, but Hernando Alonzo made it 49deg 9'. In approaching the shore
we saw a great bay and gulf, which trended deeply into the land towards
some snowy mountains. To the south there was a high mountain, with three
peaks, wherefore Pedro Sarmiento named the bay 'Golfo de la Sanctisima
Trenidad.' The highest land of the three peaks was named 'Cabo de Tres
Puntas o montes.' This island is bare of vegetation, and at the water-side
is low and rugged, and lined with breakers; on the summit are many white,
grey, and black-coloured portions of ground, or rock. Six leagues to the
north of Cape Tres Puntas is the opposite side of the gulf, where it forms
a large high mountain, backed {159} to the north by low land, and fronted
by many islands. This high mountain, which appears to be an island from the
offing, was called 'Cabo Primero.''[106]
"The following night was clear, and the wind moderate from S.E., but in the
course of next morning it shifted to N.E., with squalls, rain, and thick
weather; we worked into the inlet notwithstanding, and by noon had reached
three miles within its S.W. head-land, Cape William, and were abreast of a
bay, into which I sent a boat to look for anchorage. On her return we stood
into it, and anchored in the excellent harbour, afterwards named Port
Henry, where we remained from the 2d to the 5th of April, employed in
making a correct survey of the harbour and its adjacencies, and determining
the latitude and longitude.[107]
"The inner harbour, distinguished in the plan by the name of 'Aid Basin,'
is perfectly land-locked, and sufficiently spacious to contain a numerous
squadron of the largest ships in twenty fathoms water, over a mud bottom,
and as completely sheltered from the effects of wind and sea as in
wet-docks. At the south-west side of the basin is a fresh-water lake, which
discharges itself by a small stream, whence casks might be conveniently
filled by means of canvas hoses, and the shores around have wood for fuel
in abundance; but, from the lofty surrounding mountains, some rising almost
perpendicularly to an elevation of two thousand feet, the thick clouds with
which this basin was generally overhung, and the dense exhalations that
arose from it during the rare intervals of sunshine, together with the
exceeding prevalence of heavy rain on this coast, this place must be
disagreeable and unhealthy. Such objections do not apply to the outer
harbour, for while its shores afford shelter, they do not obstruct a free
circulation of air. It is sufficiently large to afford convenient and
secure anchorage for five or six frigates.
"We hauled the seine with very poor success, as a few smelt only were
taken; we had no better luck with our fishing-lines; {160} but the trial
might have been more profitable at another season, judging from the number
of seals we saw on the rocks off the Port, which live principally upon
fish. Muscles, limpets, and sea-eggs abound here, and are good and
wholesome of their kind. Birds are few in number, and of the species most
common in these regions. No quadruped of any kind was seen; but the purser
told me that he had observed, near the sandy beach, traces of a four-footed
animal, resembling those of a tiger: he followed them to a cavern, and
thence to the jungle. He also said that he had seen several humming-birds.
"With the exception of wild celery and the arbutus berry, I know not of any
useful vegetable production that this place affords, unless the
'Winter's-bark tree' may be mentioned. Some coarse grass, fit perhaps for
animals, may be there procured. The only signs of inhabitants were some
wigwams on the western point, which seemed to have been long forsaken: in
their construction they were precisely similar to those erected by the
migratory tribes in the Straits of Magalhaens: and the shells of muscles,
limpets, and sea-eggs, within and about them, showed that the former
tenants of these hovels drew, like the Magalhaenic tribes, a principal part
of their subsistence from shell-fish.
"Around the harbour are granite mountains, perfectly bare at their summits
and north-western sides, but the lower parts are thickly covered in
sheltered places and ravines, partly with trees, and partly with brushwood:
among the trees growing here we observed, as usual, two kinds of beech, a
tree like the cypress, but of small size, and the Winter's-bark. The
underwood is composed of all the various shrubs we had met with in the
Straits of Magalhaens; and this brushwood is so thickly spread over the
lower parts of the shores of the harbour, that it is only by crawling over
it that the distance of a few yards from the rocks can be gained; and being
generally of insufficient strength to support a man's weight, it frequently
gives way beneath him, and he is so completely buried, as to make it
difficult for him to extricate himself.
"Scarcely any of the trees attain a size to render them fit {161} for any
thing but firewood; of those we felled there was scarcely one that was not
more or less rotten at the heart, a defect probably caused by the extreme
humidity of the climate.
"During our stay, the master, accompanied by our boatswain's mate,(f) an
experienced sealer, went to take seal on the rocks, and returned in a few
hours with some of the inferior sort, called 'hair seal,' which were
numerous; but the surf was in most places too heavy to allow them to land
without much risk. The fry of the young seals we thought extremely good,
not exceeded even by the finest lamb's fry.
"On the morning of the 5th we worked to the westward, to clear the land on
each side of the inlet; and at sunset, Capo Tres Puntas bore N.b.W. 1/2 W.,
distant two leagues. The northerly breeze, which we had worked with since
leaving Port Henry, increased rapidly to a hard gale, and by 8 P.M. we were
reduced to the close-reefed main-topsail and reefed foresail. The gale
continued with unabated violence during the 6th, 7th, and 8th, from the
north, N.W., and S.W., with a confused mountainous sea. Our decks were
constantly flooded, and we could rarely show more than the close-reefed
main-topsail and reefed foresail. Only two accidents occurred: the little
boat which we carried astern was washed away by a heavy sea that broke over
us, while hoisting her in-board; and the marine barometer was broken by the
violent motion of the vessel. At noon, on the 8th, Cape Corso bore from us,
by account, S.E. (true), distant fifty-five miles. I had tried to gain a
wide offing to get a less turbulent sea, and because not even an outline of
the sea-coast of Campana Island was drawn in the chart. We had not, during
these three days, a glimpse of the sun or of a star, for it blew a constant
gale, accompanied by squalls, thick weather, and rain. According to the
time of year, the season of winter had not arrived, but the weather seemed
to say it was already come--
Sullen and sad, with all it's rising train
Of vapours, clouds, and storms.
{162}
"The wind abated at daylight on the 9th, and drew to the southward, and
thence to the S.E. (the fair weather quarter of this coast). We bore up to
make the land, and at about 10 A.M. the 'loom' of it was seen from the
mast-head. At noon, high mountains were visible from the deck; our
latitude, by observation, was 48deg 51', and our longitude, by chronometer,
00deg 27' west of Port Henry. No soundings were obtained with one hundred
and ten fathoms of line. Hence we steered east (magnetic) towards a
remarkable mountain, which, from our being nearly in the parallel of it at
noon, has been marked in the chart as Parallel Peak. The coast we were upon
was that of the Island 'Campana,' and, in its general appearance, did not
differ from that of Madre de Dios. It was late before we got very close to
the land; but, for a couple of leagues to the northward, and about a league
to the southward of the parallel of our latitude at noon, we could
distinguish rocks and breakers skirting the coast to a distance of two
leagues from the shore.
"At dusk we hauled off for the night; but instead of being able to resume
the examination of the coast next morning, we had to encounter another gale
of wind from the N.W., which, before noon, reduced us to close-reefed
main-topsail and reefed foresail. This gale suddenly subsided in the
western quarter, which was singular; for those we have experienced
generally commenced at north, thence drew round to the westward, from which
point to S.W. they blew with the greatest fury, and hauling to the
southward, usually abated to the eastward of south.
"During the afternoon, we again made the land near Parallel Peak, but could
not close it. Next morning (11th), with fine weather, and a fresh breeze at
S.W.b.W., we once more saw the land about Parallel Peak; and when distant
from the shore about eight miles, steered N.b.E. along the coast. At noon
our latitude was 48deg 47'.
"Throughout our run along the coast this day, we skirted a number of rocky
islets, rocks, and breakers, lying off shore at the distance of three or
four miles. Some of the islets were elevated several feet above the surface
of the sea; others were {163} a-wash, and there were breakers that showed
themselves only occasionally. Along this line the surf beat very heavily,
and, outside, a long rolling sea prevailed, in which the ship was very
uneasy.
"This line of dangers is not altogether continuous; for there is an opening
about two miles wide, abreast of Parallel Peak, to the southward of which
is a bight, where possibly a harbour may exist; but, considering the
prevalence of heavy westerly gales and thick weather, if there be one, few
vessels would venture to run for it; and this line must, I should think, be
considered as a barrier that they ought not pass. As seal are found on the
rocks, vessels engaged in that trade might not, perhaps, be deterred by
these dangers, but every other would give all this extent of coast a wide
berth. We ran past the breakers at the distance of about a mile, having
rocky soundings, from thirty to twenty-three fathoms.
"The termination of the coast line northward was a high, rugged island,
with a small peak at the north end. The extremity of the main land was
rather a high bluff cape, whence the coast extends southward, with craggy,
mountainous peaks and ridges, as far as Parallel Peak. At sunset, the N.W.
end of Campana bore north (magnetic), distant three leagues, and from the
mast-head I could see very distinctly the belt of rocks and breakers
extending uninterruptedly to the northward, as far as the end of Campana.
"We hauled off for the night, and had light variable airs, or calms, until
2 A.M. of the 12th, when a breeze from the northward sprung up, and
freshened so rapidly, that by noon we were again reduced to a close-reefed
main-topsail and foresail. The gale was accompanied, as usual, by incessant
rain and thick weather, and a heavy confused sea kept our decks always
flooded.
"The effect of this wet and miserable weather, of which we had had so much
since leaving Port Famine, was too manifest by the state of the sick list,
on which were now many patients with catarrhal, pulmonary, and rheumatic
complaints. The gale continued undiminished until the morning of the 13th,
{164} when, having moderated, we bore up and steered N.E. to close the
land. At noon a good meridional altitude gave our latitude 48deg 30' south,
and about the same time we saw the land bearing N.E.b.E., which we soon
made out to be Parallel Peak. After allowing amply for heave of sea, and
lee-way, we were considerably southward of our reckoning, which indicates a
southerly current; but under such circumstances of wind and weather its
exact direction, or strength, could not be ascertained.
"We proceeded along the land, taking angles and bearings for the survey,
and at sunset the N.W. end of Campana bore from us north (magnetic),
distant five leagues. Being now off the N.W. end of the island of Campana,
which forms the south-western headland of the Gulf of Penas, I considered
that, before I proceeded to examine its inlets, I ought to look for the
Harbour of Santa Barbara, which has been placed on the old charts in this
neighbourhood. Accordingly we lay-to during the night, and at 4 A.M. bore
up to close the land; at daylight the extremes of it were seen indistinctly
through a very cloudy and hazy atmosphere, from N. 39deg E. to S. 53deg E.
About noon the weather cleared off, and we got the meridian altitude of the
sun, which gave our latitude 48deg 09' south.[108] We directed the course
for our Dundee Rock, and when abreast of it, steered N.E. (compass) for an
opening in the low part of the coast ahead, backed by very high mountains,
which we found was the entrance of Port Santa Barbara. The coast to the
southward was lined with rocky islets, rocks, and breakers, extending a
league to seaward, and there were others to the northward. We were in a
channel half a mile wide, through which we continued our course, sounding
from fifteen to eleven fathoms, and in the evening anchored near the
entrance of the harbour.
{165}
"As our present situation was completely exposed to westerly winds, I went
to examine a deep bight in the southern shore, which proved to be a good
harbour, perfectly sheltered from all winds, with a depth of three and a
half fathoms over a fine sandy bottom. In the afternoon we weighed anchor
and warped into a berth in the inner harbour, where we moored in three
fathoms. I found lying, just above high-water mark, half buried in sand,
the beam of a large vessel.[109] We immediately conjectured that it had
formed part of the ill-fated Wager, one of Lord Anson's squadron (of whose
loss the tale is so well told in the narratives of Byron and Bulkeley): the
dimensions seemed to correspond with her size, and the conjecture was
strengthened by the circumstance that one of the knees that attached it to
the ship's side had been cut, which occurred in her case, when her decks
were scuttled to get at the provisions; all the bolts were much corroded;
but the wood, with the exception of the outside being worm-eaten, was
perfectly sound. Our carpenter pronounced it to be English oak.
"The land about this harbour is similar to that about Port Henry. Its
shores are rocky, with some patches of sandy beach, but every where covered
with trees, or an impervious jungle, composed of dwarfish trees and shrubs.
The land, in most places, rises abruptly from the shore to mountains, some
of which attain an altitude of more than two thousand feet, and are quite
bare at their summits and on their sides, except in sheltered ravines,
where a thick growth of trees is found. These mountains, or at least their
bases, where we could break off specimens, were of basalt, with large
masses of quartz imbedded in it; but on some parts of the shores the rocks
were of very coarse granite.
"As in the vicinity of Port Henry, the thickness of the jungle prevented
our going far inland; the greatest distance was gained by Lieut. Skyring,
who, with his wonted zeal to prosecute the survey, ascended some of the
mountains for the {166} purpose of obtaining bearings of remote points: he
remarked to me, 'that many miles were passed over in ascending even
moderate heights; the land was very high and very irregular; the mountains
seemed not to lie in any uniform direction, and the longest chain that was
observed did not exceed five miles. The flat land between the heights was
never two miles in extent: the ground was always swampy, and generally
there were small lakes receiving the drainage of mountain-streams. Indeed
the whole country appeared broken and unconnected.'
"Some of the mountains were ascertained to be 2,500 feet high, but the
general height was about 2,000 feet. A large island, on the northern side
of the harbour, is an excellent watering-place, at which casks may be
conveniently filled in the boat. It is also an object of great natural
beauty: the hill, which forms its western side, rises to seven or eight
hundred feet, almost perpendicularly, and when viewed from its base in a
boat, seems stupendous: it is clothed with trees, among which the
light-green leaves of the Winter's-bark tree, and the red flowers of the
Fuchsia, unite their tints with the darker foliage of other trees. This
perpendicular part extends to the northward till it is met by the body of
the mountain, which is arched into a spacious cavern, fifty yards wide and
a hundred feet high, whose sides are clothed with a rich growth of shrubs;
and before it a cascade descends down the steep face of the mountain.
"On the shore we found two Indian wigwams and the remains of a third; but
they had evidently been long deserted, for the grass had grown up both
around and within them to the height of more than a foot. These wigwams
were exactly similar to those in the Strait of Magalhaens: one was larger
than any I had met with, being eighteen feet in diameter. The only land
birds I saw were two owls, which passed by us after dusk with a screeching
noise.
"On the patches of sandy beach, in the inner harbour, we hauled the seine,
but unsuccessfully; we expected to find fish plentiful here, from seeing
many seals on the rocks outside, and from finding the water quite red with
the spawn of {167} crayfish. Muscles and limpets were pretty abundant, and
the shells (_Concholepas Peruviana_) used by the Magalhaenic tribes as
drinking cups, were found adhering to the rocks in great numbers.
"Nothing; could be worse than the weather we had during nine days' stay
here; the wind, in whatever quarter it stood, brought thick heavy clouds,
which precipitated themselves in torrents, or in drizzling rain. We were
well sheltered from the regular winds; but many troublesome eddies were
caused by the surrounding heights, while the passing clouds showed that
strong and squally north-west winds were prevalent.
"On the morning of the 24th, we put to sea with a southerly breeze. The
extent of coast from the eastern part of Port Santa Barbara to the outer of
the Guaianeco Islands presents several inlets running deep into the land;
but it is completely bound by rocks and rocky islets, which, with its being
generally a lee-shore, renders it extremely unsafe to approach. Observing
an opening between some islets, of which we had taken the bearing at noon,
we stood in to see whether it afforded anchorage; and approaching the
extremity of the larger island, proceeded along it at the distance of only
half a mile, when, after running two miles through a labyrinth of rocks and
kelp, we were compelled to haul out, and in doing so scarcely weathered, by
a ship's length, the outer islet. Deeming it useless to expend further time
in the examination of this dangerous portion of the gulf, we proceeded
towards Cape Tres Montes, its north-western headland.
"At sunset Cape Tres Montes bore N. 25deg W., distant eighteen miles. In
this point of view the cape makes very high and bold; to the eastward of
it, land was seen uninterruptedly as far as the eye could reach. We stood
in shore next morning, and were then at a loss to know, precisely, which
was the cape. The highest mountain was the southern projection, and has
been marked on the chart as Cape Tres Montes: but none of the heights, from
any point in which we saw them, ever appeared as 'three mounts.' The land,
though mountainous, seemed more wooded, and had a less {168} rugged outline
than that we had been hitherto coasting, since leaving the Strait. We
steered along the western coast of the land near Cape Tres Montes, and at
noon, being three miles from the shore, observed, in latitude 46deg 5.
south, the cape, bearing N. 80deg E. (mag.), distant seven miles. The
northernmost cape in sight N. 26deg W., distant ten miles, soundings
ninety-seven fathoms. Shortly afterwards another cape opened at N. 37deg W.
(mag.).
"The parallel of forty-seven degrees, the limit assigned for our survey,
being already passed, I did not venture to follow the coast further,
although we were strongly tempted to do so by seeing it trend so
differently from what is delineated on the old charts. An indentation in
the coast presenting itself between mountainous projections on each side of
low land (of which the northernmost was the cape set at noon), we hauled in
to look for an anchorage; but it proved to be a mere unsheltered bight, at
the bottom of which was a furious surf. We then stood to the southward,
along the land of Cape Tres Montes, with the view of examining the north
side of the Gulf of Penas.
"The following morning was fine: Cape Tres Montes bore N.E., distant about
three leagues. We lay off and on during the day, while the master went in
the whale-boat, to examine a sandy bay (of which Cape Tres Montes was the
easternmost point) for anchorage: he returned about sunset, and reported
that it did afford anchorage; but was quite unsheltered from wind, and
exposed to a great swell. The boat's crew had fallen in with a number of
seals, and the quantity of young seal's fry they brought on board afforded
a welcome regale to their mess-mates and themselves.
"At daylight (27th) we were four leagues from Cape Tres Montes, bearing N.
68deg W. (magnetic) a remarkable peak, marked in the chart the 'Sugar
Loaf,' N. 19deg E., distant twenty-four miles, and our soundings were
sixty-eight fathoms. This peak resembled in appearance, the Sugar Loaf at
Rio de Janeiro: it rises from a cluster of high and thickly-wooded islands,
forming apparently the eastern shore of an inlet, of which {169} the land
of Cape Tres Montes is the western head. Further to the N.E. stands a lofty
and remarkable mountain, marked in our chart as 'the Dome of Saint Paul's.'
It is seen above the adjacent high land. The height of the Sugar Loaf is
1,836 feet, and that of the Dome of Saint Paul's, 2,284 feet.
"During the day we worked up towards the land, eastward of Cape Tres
Montes, and at night succeeded in anchoring in a sandy bay, nine miles from
the Cape, where our depth of water was twelve fathoms, at the distance of a
cable and a half off shore. We lay at this anchorage until noon the
following day, while Lieut. Skyring landed on some low rocks detached from
the shore, where he was able to take some advantageous angles; and on his
return we weighed and worked up the gulf, between the eastern land of Cape
Tres Montes, and high, well wooded islands. The shores of the main land, as
well as of the islands, are bold, and the channel between them has no
dangers: the land is in all parts luxuriantly wooded. About a mile and a
half to the northward of the sandy beach which we had left, lies another,
more extensive; and a mile further, a considerable opening in the main
land, about half a mile wide, presented itself, having at its mouth two
small thickly-wooded islands, for which we steered, to ascertain whether
there was a harbour. The water was deep at its mouth, from thirty-eight to
thirty-four fathoms; but the comparative lowness of the shores at its S.W.
end, and the appearance of two sandy beaches, induced us to expect a
moderate depth within. As we advanced, a long white streak was observed on
the water, and was reported from the mast-head as a shoal; but it was soon
ascertained to be foam brought down by the tide, and we had the
satisfaction of anchoring in sixteen fathoms over a sandy bottom, in a very
excellent port, which we named Port Otway, as a tribute of respect to the
Commander-in-chief of the South American Station, Rear Admiral Sir Robert
Waller Otway, K.C.B."
* * * * *
A deficiency here occurs in Captain Stokes's journal, which the Beagle's
log barely remedies. From the 30th of April to {170} the 9th of May there
was a succession of stormy weather, accompanied by almost incessant and
heavy rain, which prevented the ship being moved; but proved, in one
respect, advantageous, by affording a very seasonable cessation from work
to the fatigued crew, and obliging Captain Stokes to take some little rest,
which he so much required; but regretted allowing himself, and submitted to
most reluctantly. He continues his journal on the 9th of May, stating that,
"Among the advantages which this admirable port presents to shipping, a
capital one seems to be the rich growth of stout and shapely timber, with
which its shores, even down to the margin of the sea, are closely
furnished, and from which a frigate of the largest size might obtain spars
large enough to replace a topmast, topsail-yard, or even a lower-yard. In
order to try what would be the quality of the timber, if, in case of
emergency, it were used in an unseasoned state, I sent the carpenter and
his crew to cut two spars for a topgallant-mast and yard. Those they
brought on board were of beech-wood; the larger being thirteen inches in
diameter, and thirty feet in length.
"On the 10th, the weather having improved, the Beagle was moved to the head
of the inlet, to an anchorage in Hoppner Sound, and on the 11th I went with
Lieut. Skyring to examine the opening, off which we were anchored.
"On each side of it we found coves, so perfectly sheltered, and with such
inexhaustible supplies of fresh water and fuel, that we lamented their not
being in a part of the world where such advantages could benefit
navigation. The depth of water in mid-channel was generally forty fathoms;
in the bights, or coves, it varied from sixteen to twenty-five fathoms,
with always a sandy bottom. We saw a great many hair seals, shoals of
pie-bald porpoises, and birds of the usual kinds in considerable numbers.
On several points of the shores were parts of the skeletons of whales; but
we no where saw a four-footed animal, or the slightest trace of a human
habitation. The unusual fineness of the morning, the smoothness of the
water, and the proximity of the adjacent lofty mountains, clothed almost to
their summits by the fullest foliage, with every {171} leaf at rest,
combined with the stillness around to give the scene a singular air of
undisturbed repose. We reached the extremity of the inlet, which we found
was about six miles from its mouth; and thinking that it was the inner
shore of an isthmus, of no great width, curiosity prompted us to endeavour
to see its outer shore: so we secured the boat, and accompanied by five of
the boat's crew, with hatchets and knives to cut their way, and mark the
trees to guide us on our way back, we plunged into the forest, which was
scarcely pervious on account of its entangled growth, and the obstructions
presented by trunks and branches of fallen trees.
"Our only guide was an occasional glimpse, from the top of a tree, of the
ranges of mountains, by which we steered our course. However, two hours of
this sort of work were rewarded by finding ourselves in sight of the great
South Sea. It would be vain to attempt describing adequately the contrast
to the late quiet scene exhibited by the view we had on emerging from this
dark wood. The inlet where we left our boat resembled a calm and
sequestered mountain lake, without a ripple on its waters: the shore on
which we now stood was that of a horrid rock-bound coast, lashed by the
awful surf of a boundless ocean, impelled by almost unceasing west winds.
"Our view of the coast was limited on each side by rocky mountainous
promontories: off the northernmost, which I called Cape Raper, were rocks
and breakers, extending nearly a mile to seaward. Having taken the few
bearings our situation enabled us to obtain, we retraced our steps to the
boat, and by aid of the marks we had left on the trees, reached her in an
hour and forty-three minutes.
"Some of the beech-trees of this wood were fifteen feet in circumference;
but I noticed none differing in their kind from those already observed
about Port Otway. A few wrens were the only living creatures we saw; not
even an insect was found in our walk. In the beds of some of the streams
intersecting the woods was a singularly sparkling sand, which had so much
the appearance of gold, that some of our party carried {172} a bag-full on
board to be tested. The shining substance proved to be, as I had supposed,
the micaceous particles of disintegrated granite. It was not our good
fortune to discover streams similar to those sung of by the poet,
"Whose foam is amber, and whose gravel gold."
* * * * *
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