Find that the Cutter had been burned--Anxiety for the Beagle--Uxbridge
Sealer--Beagle arrives--Her cruize--Bellaco Rock--San Julian--Santa
Cruz--Gallegos--Adeona--Death of Lieutenant Sholl--Adelaide Sails--
Supposed Channel of San Sebastian--Useless Bay--Natives--Port San
Antonio--Humming-birds--Fuegians--Beagle sails--Sarmiento--Roldan--
Pond--Whales--Structure--Scenery--Port Gallant.
Port Famine bore evident marks of having been visited in our absence by the
Indians, for a large fire, apparently recent, had over-run the grass, and
burned the trees upon Point Santa Anna, particularly in that part where our
boat had been so carefully concealed. Eager to know whether she had escaped
the fire, I lost no time in hastening to the spot, directly after the
Adventure anchored, and found, as our fears had anticipated, that she had
been completely destroyed, scarcely a vestige of her wood remaining, and
most of the iron-work having been carried away; for which, doubtless, the
Indians had set her on fire.
The sheds for the cooper and armourer, which had been erected with some
pains, were also entirely consumed, and every thing portable had been
carried away. Those things which were of no use to them were either broken
or burnt; but some of our station poles on Point Santa Anna were left
uninjured; as well as the tablet erected to the memory of Mr. Ainsworth and
the boat's crew; which was singular, because it was secured by iron
hoops--of great value, in their eyes.
From the fresh traces of horses in the neighbourhood, we at first suspected
the conflagration to have been caused by the Patagonians; but we soon found
we owed our loss to the Fuegians, for in two new wigwams were strewed some
remains of our boat.
The last winter appeared to have been milder than that preceding it, for
last January, Mount Sarmiento and the hills to {119} the southward, over
Fitton Bay, were so covered with snow, that not a particle of the rock
could be seen; but this year many bare spots were visible. Every thing
else, however, indicated a bad season, and the berberis bushes and arbutus
shrubs had scarcely any show of fruit; which was rather a disappointment,
as the berries of the former plant proved an agreeable addition to our food
last year. However, there was no scarcity of birds, and with the seine we
procured plenty of fish.
The Beagle's long and unexpected absence caused us much uneasiness, and
some apprehension for her safety. Her visit to Port Desire ought not to
have occupied more than three days, and her superior sailing should have
enabled Captain Stokes to rejoin us in the entrance of the Strait. People
were sent daily to look out for her, and every succeeding day increased our
anxiety.
A long succession of blowing and rainy weather much impeded our progress
with the Adelaide; but the Hope was hoisted out, and prepared for service.
Before daylight on the 14th I was informed that the Beagle was seen in the
offing. Blue lights were burnt, and lanterns immediately shown to guide her
to the anchorage; but our disappointment was great when the stranger proved
to be Mr. W. Low's schooner, the Uxbridge. He had been sealing since
November in the neighbourhood of Noir Island, near the outer entrance of
the Barbara Channel, and was on his way to Cape Gregory to meet his elder
brother, who had been collecting sea-elephant oil at South Shetland. The
Uxbridge had entered the Strait from the Pacific, by the Magdalen
'Channel,' which last year we thought a Sound, and had attempted to explore
in the Hope, but had been deceived by the abrupt change in the direction of
the Channel at Cape Turn.
At last (on the 28th), after the Beagle's absence had been protracted to
more than a month beyond the time intended, we were relieved from painful
anxiety, and much rejoiced, by Mr. Tarn's telling us he had just seen her,
and in two hours afterwards she arrived.
Captain Stokes, to my great surprise, told me that he had {120} been
examining the whole coast between Port Desire and Cape Virgins, and for the
last ten days had been detained in the Gallegos River by heavy gales of
wind. He had sounded round, and fixed the position of the Bellaco Rock, or
St. Estevan's Shoal, the existence of which had been so long doubted. He
had also visited and partially surveyed, the harbours of Port San Julian
and Santa Cruz, besides Coy Bay, and had made almost a complete survey of
the River Gallegos, which he found to be a large and rapid river, whose
entrance forms a spacious port: instead of being blocked up by a mound of
shingle four or five feet above the level of the sea, and having so small a
stream as to escape the notice of Mr. Weddell as he walked along the
beach.[94] Cape Fairweather is so remarkable, and so correctly placed upon
the chart, that Mr. Weddell, in his search for the river, must have very
much deceived himself. I should think he must have mistaken the ravine
described upon my former visit, since that is the only part which answers
his description: it could not be Coy Bay, because that opening, although of
minor importance, has a broad boat communication with the sea.
Captain Stokes described the tide at the anchorage, within the mouth of the
Gallegos, as running at the rate of five knots, and rising forty-six feet.
From Mr. Weddell's account, he was on the point of passing by without
examining it; but the weather being fine, he determined to go in his boat
and ascertain the truth of that description. It was soon evident that the
river was large, and, returning to his ship, he lost no time in anchoring
her within the entrance, where she rode out a heavy gale from S.W.
The Beagle left the Gallegos on the 23d, and reached Port Famine on the
28th, a very short passage, since she remained for a night and the greater
part of a day at Gregory Bay, to communicate with the natives. When
approaching the First Narrow, Captain Stokes observed a brig, apparently at
anchor, under Cape Orange, and supposing her either to have found a good
anchorage, or to be in distress, steered towards her. {121} Before he had
reached within two miles of her, the Beagle touched the ground, but was
extricated from the danger most fortunately, because it was nearly high
water; and had she remained a-ground during the tide, the consequences
might have been serious--at least, she could not have been got off without
lightening her considerably. The brig proved to be the Adeona (Mr. Low's
vessel), on her way to meet the Uxbridge. In attempting to enter the
narrow, she grounded on the shoals, and had been left dry. The following
tide again floated her, and she was on the point of getting underweigh,
when the Beagle hove in sight. Captain Stokes finding that the Adeona had
received no damage, proceeded to Gregory Bay.
By the Beagle's arrival we were informed of the death of Lieutenant Robert
H. Sholl, after an illness of ten days. His remains were interred at Port
San Julian, where a tablet was erected to his memory.
This excellent young man's death was sincerely regretted by all his
friends, and by none more than by me. He was appointed to the expedition,
as a midshipman, solely on account of his high character.
During our voyage from England, he made himself conspicuously useful in
saving the cargo of a vessel, which was stranded in Port Praya; and on our
arrival at Rio de Janeiro, the Commander-in-chief appointed him to a vacant
lieutenantcy on board the Beagle: an appointment which, up to the period of
his lamented death, he filled zealously and most creditably.[95]
On the 1st of March we were surprised by the appearance of three Europeans,
walking round Point St. Anna. A boat {122} was sent for them, and we found
they were deserters from the Uxbridge, who had come to volunteer for our
ships.
The following day the Adeona and Uxbridge arrived, on their way to Port San
Antonio, to boil their oil; but I recommended Bougainville, or (as the
sealers call it) Jack's Harbour, as more convenient for their purpose, and
more secure from storms, as well as from troublesome visits of the natives.
Upon my offering to restore the three deserters to the Uxbridge, Mr. Low
requested me to keep them, and another, also, who was anxious to join the
Adventure, to which I consented, as the Adelaide wanted men.
A few days after Mr. Low's departure, he returned in a whale-boat to ask
assistance in repairing the Uxbridge's rudder. By our help it was soon made
serviceable, and she was enabled to prosecute her voyage, which could not
otherwise have been continued.
The Adelaide being ready for sea: her first service was to be an
examination of the St. Sebastian Channel, which, from its delineation on
the old charts, would seem to penetrate through the large eastern island of
Tierra del Fuego. In the voyage of the Nodales (in the year 1618), an
opening on the eastern coast, supposed to be the mouth of a channel,
communicating with the Strait of Magalhaens, was discovered. After
describing the coast to the south of Cape Espiritu Santo, the journal of
that voyage states: "We found, in the channel of St. Sebastian, twenty
fathoms clear ground. The north shore is a beach of white sand, five
leagues in extent, stretching out from the high land that terminates at
Cape Espiritu Santo, and giving the coast here the appearance of a deep
bay; but, on a nearer approach, a projecting tract of low shore is
observed. The south extremity of this low beach is a sandy point, round
which the channel trends; the mouth is a league and a half wide. The south
shore is higher than the land to the northward, and in the middle of the
bay the depth is from fifteen to twenty fathoms clear ground, and a good
bottom; but from mid-channel to the south shore the bottom is stony, and
the water, of little depth, there being only six and seven fathoms. From
{123} hence the channel shows itself, and continues, as far as we could
see, of the same breadth. It seemed to be a large sea. The latitude was
observed to be 53deg 16'."[96]
From the above account, and from the chart that accompanies it, in which
this inlet is made to communicate with the Strait of Magalhaens by the
opening round Cape Monmouth, our knowledge of the supposed St. Sebastian
Channel was derived. That there is a deep bay, in the latitude of 53deg
16', not only appears from the account of the Nodales, who were within the
heads, although it seems they did not proceed beyond the stony ground on
the south side of the entrance; but also from the accounts of vessels who
have lately seen it; and of one ship-master who was deterred from entering,
by the formidable notice on our charts of its being "only navigable for
small vessels," whence he conjectured that the tides would be very strong,
and the channel occasionally narrow, as well as narrow, and shoal.
Sarmiento, Narborough, Byron, Wallis, Bougainville, and Cordova, have
severally noticed an opening, which corresponds to this supposed channel,
namely, that between Capes Monmouth and Valentyn; but the object of those
voyagers having been to make the passage through the known Strait, to
explore this opening was, in all probability, considered a waste of time;
yet, that such a channel was supposed to exist, we must conclude from the
conspicuous figure it makes in the charts of Tierra del Fuego.
Had there been a knowledge of its affording any communication with the sea,
surely Sarmiento and Narborough, as well as the Nodales, who navigated the
Strait from west to east, would have been induced to attempt to pass
through; and avoid the dangers, as well as difficulties, of the channels to
the northward.
Anxious to set the question at rest, I gave Captain Stokes orders to
proceed to survey the western coasts, between the Strait of Magalhaens and
latitude 47deg south, or as much of {124} those dangerous and exposed
shores as he could examine, with the means at his disposal, and sailed
myself, in the Adelaide, to explore the supposed St. Sebastian Channel.
Every discretionary power was given to Captain Stokes to act as he pleased,
for the benefit of the service; but he had strict orders to return to Port
Famine by the 24th of July, when I hoped to move the Adventure to some
other part of the Strait, and to recommence operations with the earliest
days of spring, if the winter should be unfit for our work.
Having crossed over to the southward of Point Boqueron, we proceeded, on
the 13th of March, to the N.E. (in which direction the opening trended), at
no great distance from the northern shore; behind which the country seemed
to rise gradually to the summit of a long ridge of table-land, terminating
near the First Narrow, and appearing like that in the neighbourhood of Cape
Gregory. It was inhabited; for here and there we observed the smoke of
fires, perhaps intended as invitations for us to land.
The south side of the opening seemed (after forming a small bay under Nose
Peak) to extend in a direction parallel to the northern coast of the bay,
for three or four leagues, when it dipped beneath the horizon. Neither
shore had any opening or indenture in its coast line, of sufficient size to
shelter even a boat; so that a vessel caught here, with a south-westerly
gale, would have little chance of escape; unless a channel should exist, of
which, from the stillness of the water and the total absence of tide, we
had very little hope. The soundings were variable between twenty and thirty
fathoms, and the bottom seemed to be of shells, probably covering a
substratum of clay or sand. As we stood on, a small rocky lump came in
sight, which appeared to be the termination of the northern shore, and
again we flattered ourselves with the expectation of finding a passage; but
in less than half an hour afterwards, the bay was distinctly seen to be
closed by low land, and the rocky lump proved to be an isolated mass of
rock, about two miles inland. As every person on board was then satisfied
of the non-existence of any channel, we put about to return, and {125} by
bearings of Mount Tarn, crossed by angles from Mount Graves, Nose Peak, and
Point Boqueron, our position, and the extent of this bay, were determined.
As it affords neither anchorage nor shelter, nor any other advantage for
the navigator, we have named it Useless Bay. It was too much exposed to the
prevailing winds to allow of our landing to examine the country, and its
productions, or to communicate with the Indians; and as there was not much
likelihood of finding anything of novel character, we lost no time in
retreating from so exposed a place. Abreast of Point Boqueron the patent
log gave for our run twenty-six miles, precisely the same distance which it
had given in the morning; so that from five o'clock in the morning until
ten, and from ten o'clock until four in the afternoon, we had not
experienced the least tide, which of itself is a fact confirmatory of the
non-existence of a channel.
From the fires of the natives in this part having been noticed at a
distance from the beach, it would seem that they derive their subsistence
from hunting rather than fishing; and as there are guanacoes on the south
shore of the First Narrow, it is probable the people's habits resemble
those of the Patagonians, rather than the Fuegians; but as they have no
horses, the chase of so shy and swift an animal as the guanaco must be
fatiguing and very precarious.[97]
Sarmiento is the only person on record who has communicated with the
natives in the neighbourhood of Cape Monmouth. He calls them in his
narrative a large race (Gente grande). There it was that he was attacked by
the Indians, whom he repulsed, and one of whom he made prisoner.
We remained a night in Port Famine, and again set out in the Adelaide to
survey some of the western parts of the Strait. {126} Bad weather forced us
into Port San Antonio; of which Cordova gives so favourable an account,
that we were surprised to find it small and inconvenient, even for the
Adelaide.
He describes the port to be a mile and a half long, and three quarters of a
mile broad: we found the length a mile and a quarter, and the mean breadth
scarcely a quarter of a mile. It possesses no one advantage that is not
common to almost every other harbour and cove in the Strait; and for a
ship, or square-rigged vessel of any kind, it is both difficult to enter,
and dangerous to leave. Besides the local disadvantages of Port San
Antonio, the weather in it is seldom fair, even when the day is fine
elsewhere. It lies at the base of the Lomas Range, which rises almost
perpendicularly to the height of three thousand feet, fronting the great
western channel of the Strait, whence it receives upon its cold surface the
western winds, and is covered by the vapour, which is condensed from them,
while in all other parts the sun may be shining brightly.
This port is formed by a channel, a quarter of a mile wide, separating two
islands from the shore. The best anchorage is off a picturesque little bay
on the south island, which is thickly wooded to the water's edge with the
holly leaved berberis,[98] fuchsia, and veronica, growing to the height of
twenty feet; over-topped and sheltered by large beech, and Winter's-bark
trees, rooted under a thick mossy carpet, through which a narrow Indian
path winds between arbutus and currant bushes, and round prostrate stems of
dead trees, leading to the seaward side of the island. Upon the beach, just
within the bushes, and sheltered by a large and wide-spreading fuchsia
bush, in full flower, stood two Indian wigwams, which, apparently, had not
been inhabited since the visit of poor Ainsworth. He had occupied these
very wigwams for two days, having covered them over with the boat's sail;
and remains of the ropeyarns that tied it down were still there: a
melancholy memento.
[Illustration: P. P. King S. Bull
FUEGIAN WIGWAMS AT HOPE HARBOUR IN THE MAGDALEN CHANNEL.
Published by Henry Colburn, Great Marlborough Street, 1838]
{127} In no part of the Strait did we find the vegetation so luxuriant as
in this little cove. Some of the Winter's-bark and currant trees had shoots
more than five feet long, and many of the Winter's-bark trees were two feet
in diameter. The veronica (I believe _V. decussata_) grows in the sheltered
parts to the height of twenty feet, with a stem six inches in diameter. It
was found too on the windward side of the island in abundance, and of large
size, rooted in the very wash of the sea-beach, and exposed to the full
force of the cold winds and hail-storms, which rush down the wide western
reach of the Strait.
The fuchsia also grows to a large size; but it is a more delicate plant
than the veronica, and thrives only in sheltered places. Many were observed
six inches in diameter; the stems of the two last plants were used by us,
during our stay, for fuel.
The day after our arrival, the gale subsided, and the weather became very
fine indeed. The stillness of the air may be imagined, when the chirping of
humming-birds, and buzzing of large bees, were heard at a considerable
distance. A humming-bird had been seen at Port Gallant last year, and was
brought to me by Captain Stokes, since which none had been noticed. Here,
however, we saw, and procured several; but of only one species.[99] It is
the same as that found on the western coast, as high as Lima; so that it
has a range of 41deg of latitude, the southern limit being 53-1/2deg, if
not farther south.
The islets, at the north part of the port, were well stocked with geese and
other birds, which supplied our people with fresh meals. The steamer duck
we found difficult to shoot, from its excessive wariness, and power of
remaining, for a great length of time, under water.
Our fine weather lasted but a few hours, and (no unusual occurrence in
these regions) was succeeded by a week's rain and wind, during which we
were confined to the small space {128} of the Adelaide; and for some days
had three anchors down, owing to the violent squalls. Farenheit's
thermometer ranged between thirty-six and forty-six degrees, and we had
several snow storms, but the snow did not lie on the low grounds.
On the 28th the gale began to subside, and there was a change for the
better; but we were again disappointed, and not until the 31st could we
effect our departure from this dreary and confined little place.
The day before we sailed, three canoes, containing in all sixteen persons,
of whom six only were men, came alongside.
For about an hour they had hesitated to approach; but when once near us,
very little invitation was necessary to induce them to come on board. One
was clothed in a duck shirt, which was recognised by one of our people, who
had joined us from the Uxbridge, as having been given to them a few weeks
before, when that vessel passed through Magdalen Channel: another wore a
red flannel shirt, and in the canoe we observed an European boarding-pike,
painted green, and a part of the iron-work of the cutter, burned at Port
Famine during our absence; also some relics of the boat in which Mr.
Ainsworth was drowned, which last they had doubtless found thrown up on the
beach. Upon our inquiring how they became possessed of the iron-work, they
pointed towards Fort Famine; and I have no doubt they were concerned in the
fire; but as we could not explain to them the mischief they had occasioned,
it was thought better not to notice the affair, and the articles were
returned to them. They could have had no idea of our being the owners of
the boat, or they would have concealed all that belonged to her.
They conducted themselves very quietly during their stay on board, with the
exception of one, who tried to pick my pocket of a handkerchief; the
offender was ordered out of the vessel, and there was no further attempt to
pilfer. They wished to go below; but this was not permitted, because the
odour of their oily persons was scarcely tolerable, even in the open air.
As to food, tallow-candles, biscuit, beef, plumb-pudding, were {129}
equally liked, and swallowed most voraciously. One of them was discovered
taking the tallow out of the end of the deep sea lead and eating it,
although mixed with sand and dirt.
Before sunset their canoes were despatched on shore to prepare the wigwams,
during which operation three of the men remained on board; and as soon as
the preparations were made they called for a canoe and went on shore. We
obtained several spears, baskets, necklaces, bows and arrows from them in
barter; but they seemed to have very few skins. Perhaps those they
possessed were hidden in the bushes, because they had no wish to part with
them.
One woman was covered with a guanaco mantle; another merely wore a
seal-skin over her back and shoulders, which, while she crouched in the
canoe, was sufficient to cover her person. One had a black stripe down the
nose, but she was the only female among them who was so painted.
Next morning the Indians visited us with a fresh assortment of bows and
arrows, in the manufacture of which they had evidently passed the night,
for every one was quite new; the bows were of green wood, and the arrows
not even pointed. They found, however, a ready sale. One of the party was a
man who had been turned out of our vessel the preceding evening, for
picking my pocket; but he was daubed over with a whitish pigment to deceive
us, and would probably have escaped detection, but for the unusual ugliness
of his person, which was not so easily disguised. He was much disconcerted
by our recognition; and our refusal to barter with him made him angry and
sullen.
The women had daubed their faces all over with bright red ochre; to add to
their beauty, no doubt.
We sailed out of the port by the northern passage, and standing across the
Strait, anchored in San Nicolas Bay. Mr. Graves went to Bougainville
Harbour, to communicate with the Adeona, and take letters from me to
Lieutenant Wickham. He brought back an account of all being well at Port
Famine, and of the Beagle having sailed on the 17th.
When we left Port Famine my intention was to examine {130} the Magdalen
Channel; but, upon leaving San Nicolas Bay (1st April), the weather was so
favourable for our proceeding to the westward, that I changed my mind and
steered round Cape Froward in order to get to Port Gallant, whence, with a
westerly wind, we might more easily survey the coast in returning. An
easterly breeze carried us near Cape Holland, into Wood's Bay, where we
anchored, and obtained a bearing of Mount Sarmiento, which, being clear of
clouds, was a conspicuous, and even splendid object; for the sun's setting
rays, shining upon the projecting snowy ridges on its western side, gave it
the appearance of a mass of streaky gold. It had been in sight the whole
day, as well as the preceding evening, when its bearings were taken from
the islet in San Nicolas Bay.
The next day was so calm that we only reached an anchorage in Bradley Cove,
on the west side of Bell Bay, of which a plan was made; an extensive set of
bearings was also taken on the west point of the bay, evidently that called
by Sarmiento Tinquichisgua.[100] The conspicuous mountain at the back of
the bay, on its south-eastern side, is particularly noticed by him, and,
according to his opinion, is the "Campana de Roldan" of Magalhaens.[101]
Between Bradley Cove and Point Tinquichisgua are two coves, over which a
high double-peaked mountain forms a conspicuous object upon rounding Cape
Froward; and they were named in compliment to Mr. Pond, the late Astronomer
Royal.
While at Point Tinquichisgua we were discovered by some natives to the
westward, who immediately got into their canoes, and paddled towards us;
but, as we had no arms in the boat, I did not think it prudent to await
their arrival; and therefore, after taking the requisite angles, embarked
and returned to the Adelaide, examining the inlets under Mount Pond on our
way. Nothing more was seen of the Indians until the following morning,
when, as we sailed out of the bay, they made their appearance, but we did
not communicate {131} with them. They were as vociferous as usual, and
pointed to the shore, inviting us to land. One of them, who stood up in the
canoe while we passed, was ornamented about the hair and body with white
feathers.
This part of the Strait teems with whales, seals, and porpoises. While we
were in Bradley Cove, a remarkable appearance of the water spouted by
whales was observed; it hung in the air like a bright silvery mist, and was
visible to the naked eye, at the distance of four miles, for one minute and
thirty-five seconds before it disappeared.
A glance at the chart of this part of the Strait will show the difference
of geological structure in the opposite coasts. The north shore, from Cape
Froward to Port Gallant, forms a straight line, with scarcely a projection
or bight; but on the opposite side there is a succession of inlets,
surrounded by precipitous mountains, which are separated by ravines. The
northern shore is of slate; but the other is principally of greenstone, and
its mountains, instead of running up into sharp peaks, and narrow serrated
ridges, are generally round-topped. The vegetation on both sides is almost
equally abundant, but the trees on the south shore are much smaller. The
smooth-leaved beech (_Fagus betuloides_) and Winter's-bark are the
principal trees; but here and there a small tree was observed, like a
cypress, which does not grow to the eastward, excepting on the sides of
Mount Tarn, where it only reaches the height of three or four feet.
The scenery of this part of the Strait, instead of being as Cordova
describes it, "horrible," is at this season exceedingly striking and
picturesque. The highest mountains certainly are bare of vegetation; but
their sharp peaks and snow-covered summits afford a pleasing contrast to
the lower hills, thickly clothed with trees quite to the water's side,
which is bordered by masses of bare rock, studded with ferns and moss, and
backed by the rich dark-green foliage of the berberis and arbutus shrubs,
with here and there a beech-tree, just beginning to assume its autumnal
tints.
In working into the narrow entrance of Port Gallant, the {132} schooner
grounded upon a bank that extends off the mouth of the river; but the water
being perfectly smooth, no damage was caused. As a secure cove, Port
Gallant is the best in the Strait of Magalhaens; from the stillness of its
waters, it is a perfect wet dock, and from its position it is invaluable.
There are many coves as safe and convenient when once entered; but the
prevailing steepness of the shores, as well as the great depth of water,
are obstacles of serious importance. Here, however, is an exception: the
bottom is even and the depth moderate; besides, Fortescue Bay, close by, is
an excellent roadstead or stopping-place, to await an opportunity of
entering.
For repairing a ship, Port Famine is more convenient, on account of the
quantity and size of well-seasoned timber lying about the beach, and also
from the open character of the country. At Port Gallant the trees are much
stunted, and unfit for present use, while the shore, as is the case around
almost every cove to the westward of Cape Froward, is covered with shrubs
and brushwood, quite to the high-water mark; so that there is no
possibility of walking easily to any distance from the sea-side. A shingle,
or sandy beach, twenty or thirty yards in length, occasionally intervenes,
but is scarcely preferable to a vessel's deck, for a walk.
* * * * *
{133}