CHAPTER VII.

The Cadi’s Wife—Singular Custom—Haïsè Hanoum—The

Odalique—The Cadi—Noisy Enjoyment—Lying in

State—Cachemires—Costume—Unbounded Hospitality of the

Wealthy Turks—The Dancing Girl—Saïryn Hanoum—Contrast.

The wife of the Cadi of Tzèkerghè having given birth to her first-born

son, I received an invitation to visit her the same evening, which I

accepted, although not without some surprise; and, on expressing my

astonishment at her subjecting herself to the intrusion of guests at

such a period, I learnt that it is universally the custom, among the

wives of the wealthy Turks, to receive company during seven days after

the birth of the first son, until midnight; on which occasion they

display the most valuable portions of their _trousseau_.

Haïsè Hanoum was a young creature of sixteen, very pretty, and very

stupid, who, individually, created no great interest; but she had a

rival in the harem, a sweet girl of twelve years of age, with the face

of an angel, and the grace of a sylph; who, if the gossipry of the

neighbourhood may be relied upon, was no especial favourite with her

companion, whose dullness yet left her discrimination enough to be

jealous of the superior attractions of the gazel-eyed Odalique. The Cadi

himself had reached his eightieth year, and his silver beard would

rather have distinguished him as the grandsire than as the husband of

these two beautiful young creatures.

I entered the house at eight o’clock in the evening; and, having

traversed the marble court, whose fountain poured forth its limpid

waters beneath the shade of a venerable fig tree, I passed along the

latticed terrace of the harem, to the Hanoum’s apartment. Long before I

reached it, I was deafened with the noise which issued from its open

door; the voices of the singing-women—the rattle of the

tambourines—the laughter of the guests—the shouts of the attendant

slaves—the clatter of the coffee and sherbet cups—I could scarcely

believe that I was about to be ushered into a sick-chamber! At length,

the three attendants who had lighted me upstairs, made way for me

through the crowd of women who thronged the entrance of the apartment,

and one of the most extraordinary scenes presented itself upon which it

has ever been my fate to look.

Directly opposite to the door stood the bed of the Hanoum; the curtains

had been withdrawn, and a temporary canopy formed of cachemire shawls

arranged in festoons, and linked together with bathing scarfs of gold

and silver tissue: and, as the lady was possessed of fifty, which could

not all be arranged with proper effect in so limited a space, a silk

cord had been stretched along the ceiling to the opposite extremity of

the apartment, over which the costly drapery was continued. Fastened to

the shawls were head-dresses of coloured gauze, flowered or striped with

gold and silver, whence depended oranges, lemons, and candied fruits.

Two coverlets of wadded pink satin were folded at the bed’s foot; and a

sheet of striped crape hung to the floor, where it terminated in a deep

fringe of gold.

The infant lay upon a cushion of white satin, richly embroidered with

coloured silks, and trimmed like the sheet; and was itself a mass of

gold brocade and diamonds. But the young mother principally attracted my

attention. As I entered, she was flinging over her child a small

coverlet of crimson velvet, most gorgeously wrought with gold; and as

the sleeves of her striped silk antery and gauze chemisette fell back to

the elbow, her white and dimpled arms circled by bracelets of

brilliants, and her small hand glittering with jewelled rings, were

revealed in all their beauty. Her dark hair was braided in twenty or

thirty small plaits, that fell far below her waist, as she leant

against a cushion similar to that on which she had pillowed her infant.

Her throat was encircled by several rows of immense pearls, whence

depended a diamond star, resting upon her bosom; her chemisette was

delicately edged by a gold beading, and met at the bottom of her bust,

where her vest was confined by a costly shawl. Her head-dress, of blue

gauze worked with silver, was studded with diamond sprays, and

ornamented with a fringe of large gold coins, which fell upon her

shoulders, and almost concealed her brilliant earrings. Her satin antery

was of the most lively colours, and her salva were of pale pink silk,

sprinkled with silver spots. A glass vase of white lilies rested against

her pillow, and a fan of peacocks’ feathers, and a painted handkerchief,

lay beside her. Previously to her confinement, she had plucked out the

whole of her eyebrows, and had replaced them by two stripes of black

dye, raised about an inch higher upon the forehead. This is a common

habit with the Turkish women on great occasions; and they no where

display more coquetry or more decided bad taste than in the arrangement

of their eyebrows, which they paint in all kinds of fantastic shapes;

sometimes making them meet across the nose, and sometimes raising them

at the outer point to the temples! I have seen many a pretty woman

destroyed by this whim.

I was conducted with great ceremony to the sofa, when I had saluted the

Hanoum, and uttered my “Mashallah” as I leant over the infant; which,

poor little thing! was almost smothered in finery; and, having taken my

seat, I had time to contemplate the singular scene around me.

I have alluded elsewhere to the facility with which the working classes

of Turkey obtain access into the houses of the wealthy. On every

occasion of rejoicing, the door is open to all; it is the sofa only

which is sacred; but the poor share in all the enjoyments of the

festival; the coffee and sherbet is served to them, if not with the same

ceremony, at least with the same welcome, as to the prouder guests; they

listen to the music—they mingle in the conversation—they join in the

gaiety—and they are never made to feel that their lot is cast in a more

lowly rank than that of their entertainer.

On the present occasion the floor was thronged. Mothers were there with

their infants at their breasts, for whose entire costume you would not

have given fifty piastres; and whose sunburnt arms and naked feet bore

testimony to a life of toil. A group of children were huddled together

at the bed’s foot; a throng of singing women occupied the extreme end of

the apartment; the mother of the young wife sat beside the pillow of her

child, dressed in a vest and trowsers of white, with a large

handkerchief of painted muslin flung loosely over her turban; the lovely

little Odalique, totally unheeded, squatted on the ground at my feet;

half a dozen stately Hanoums were seated on the crimson velvet sofa,

leaning against its gorgeous cushions, and some of them engaged with the

chibouk. But the most attractive object in the apartment was the

dancing-girl, who occupied the centre of the floor.

I have rarely beheld any thing more beautiful; and, with the exception

of the daughter of the Scodra Pasha, I had seen no woman in the country

who could be compared with her. On my entrance she had been beating the

tambourine; and as, out of respect for the Frank visitor, the music was

momentarily suspended, she remained in the attitude she had assumed when

she first caught sight of me. Her arms were raised above her head, and

her open sleeves fell back almost to her shoulder; her delicate little

feet were bare, and only partially revealed beneath the large loose

trowsers of dark silk; a chemisette of gauze, richly fringed, relieved

the sombre tint of her tightly-fitting antery, and a shawl of the most

glowing colours bound her slender waist; her head-dress was nearly

similar to that worn in the Imperial Seraïs—a painted handkerchief was

folded round her forehead, whose deep fringe fell low upon her cheeks;

part of her long hair was dishevelled, and spread wide upon the summit

of her head, and the rest, formed into innumerable little plaits, was

looped about her shoulders. A large bunch of white lilies drooped

gracefully above her right ear, and her figure was bent slightly

backward, in the easiest attitude in the world.

She was assuredly very lovely; but it was not genuine oriental beauty.

Her large, full eyes were as blue and bright as a summer sky, when the

heavens are full of sunshine; her nose was _à la Roxalane_; and she had

a pretty pout about her little cherry-coloured lips, worth half a dozen

smiles.

I could not help expressing my surprise at the style of her _coïffure_,

as I had never before seen it so worn, except in the Imperial Palaces;

when I was informed that the Sultan, having accidentally seen her

mother, who far exceeded the daughter in beauty, became so enthralled by

her extreme loveliness as to make her an inmate of his harem, where she

still remains.

When I had seated myself, the dancer suddenly suffered her arms to fall

by her side, and flinging the tambourine to one of the singing women,

she clapped her hands, and a couple of slaves entered with coffee. One

bore a large silver salver, from which depended a napkin of gold tissue,

richly fringed, with the tiny cups of glittering porcelain, and the

silver coffee-holders neatly arranged upon its surface; and the other

carried a weighty sherbet-vase of wrought silver, shaped as classically

as that of Hebe herself.

I never saw any woman so light or so graceful as that lovely

dancing-girl. She had the spring of a sylph, and the foot of a fawn. As

she presented the coffee, she laid her hand first upon her lips and then

upon her head, with an elegance which I have seldom seen equalled; and

then bounding back into her place, she twirled the tambourine in the air

with the playfulness of a child; and, having denoted the measure,

returned it to one of the women, who immediately commenced a wild chant,

half song and half recitative, which was at times caught up in chorus by

the others, and at times wailed out by the dancer only, as she regulated

the movements of her willow-like figure to the modulations of the music.

The Turkish women dance very little with the feet; it is the grace and

art displayed in the carriage of the body and arms which form the

perfection of their dancing; the rapid snapping of the fingers,

meanwhile, producing the effect of castanets.

Even at the risk of making a portrait gallery of my chapter, I must

mention the magnificent Saïryn Hanoum, who shortly afterwards entered

the apartment. She was in the autumn of her beauty, for she must have

been eight or nine and twenty, at which period the women of the East

begin to decline. But what an autumn! Could you only have clipped the

wings of Time for the future, you would not have wished her to be a day

younger. She was dark, very dark: almost a Bohemian in complexion; but

you saw the rich blood coursing along her veins, through the clear skin;

her eyes were like the storm-cloud, from which the lightning flashes at

intervals; her hair was as black as midnight; her teeth were dazzling:

and her brow—it was a brow which should have been circled by a diadem,

for it was already stamped with Nature’s own regality. She was tall,

even stately; and the dignity of her step accorded well with the fire of

her dark eye, and the proud expression that sat upon her lip, and

dilated her thin delicate nostril. Her costume was as striking as her

person; and, had she studied during a century how best to enhance her

beauty, she could never have more perfectly succeeded. Her vest and

trowsers were of the most snowy muslin; she wore neither diamond nor

pearl; but the handkerchief was fastened about her head with a chain of

large gold coins, which being threaded upon a silken cord, formed a

fringe that rested upon her forehead; and a necklace of the same

material fell low upon her bosom. The Turkish women of rank have

universally very sweet voices—her’s was music.

On glancing back upon what I have written, I fear that much of it may

be condemned as hyperbole, or at best as exaggeration. I only wish that

they who are sceptical could look for an instant upon Saïryn

Hanoum—they would confess that I have done her less than justice.

_En révanche_, the floor was crowded with withered old women and stupid

children: the atmosphere was impregnated with onions, tobacco, and

garlic; and the noise was deafening! The singing women shouted at

intervals at the very pitch of their voices; the infants cried with

weariness and fright; the impatient guests demanded coffee and sherbet

as unceremoniously as though they had been at a public kiosk, and much

more rapidly than they could be supplied; and the ringing rattle of the

tambourine kept up a running accompaniment of discord.

Altogether the scene was a most extraordinary one; and I compelled

myself to remain a couple of hours the guest of Haïsè Hanoum in order to

contemplate it at my leisure. The same ceremonies, the same amusements,

and the same noise, continued until midnight, during the whole of the

seven days; when the harem doors were once more shut against such

general intrusion, and the young mother left to enjoy the repose which

she required.

The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 2 (of 2) · 第 7 / 34 章