THE EIGHT PART, &c.
Contayning the second Booke of my second Travailes.
Patriam meam transire non possum, omnium una est, extra hanc nemo
projici potest. Non patria mihi interdicitur sed locus, in quamcunque
terram venio, in meam venio, nulla exilium est sed altera patria
est. Patria est ubicunque bene est. Si enim sapiens est Peregrinatur,
si stultus exulat. Senec. de re, for.
Let not surmisers thinke, ambition led
My second toyles, more flash flowne praise to wed;
Nay; there was reason, and the cause is Knowne
For Courtly crosses, seldome stay unshowne:
Well, I am sped; through Belgia then I trace;
And footing Rhyne, to Geneve kept my pace,
Thence cross'd I Sinais, Po, and Lombard bounds,
The hils Appenine, the Ætrurian rounds:
And nighting Rome, Parthenope I past,
Even to Rhegio, of Townes Calabriaes last:
Whence Sicily I view'd, and Ætna Mount;
And Malta too, as I before was wont:
Then sight I Tunneis, where old Carthage stood,
And Scipio shed streames of Numidian blood.
Hence Tremizen I trac'd, the Barbars shoare
To Algeir, great Fez, the Atlanticke glore;
The Berdoans Country, and the Lybian sands,
The Garolines parch'd bounds, the Sabunck lands;
And diverse soiles, of Savage Heathnick bounds,
Whose names and stiles, this Affricke story sounds.
Last in the Lybian lists, I'me forc'd to stay,
Whence I return'd, for Tunneis the next way;
And resting there, till Æoles seaven rig'd Towres,
Prest Tritons backe; (crost Neptunes Paramours)
And wish'd me saile; O then with speedy flight
I boord the Ship, and bad the Moores good-night.
True it is, that these who make Distinction clearely, and the
certayne knowledge of things, divide all Sciences in Speculative and
Practicke. And agayne, Speculative in Physicke, or Phylosophy naturall,
in Mathematickes and Metaphysicke; placing Medicine under the first:
Arithmeticke, Musicke, Geometry, and Astrology under the second:
Uniting thirdly, Theology, to the which they give also to be adjoyned
the right Canon.
As for the science Practique, it doth first imbrace the Morall that
some divide in three, to wit, Ethique, that doth forme the manners
of one man, Secondly in Ecoenomick, that doth dispose the actions
domesticke: The third in Politicque, that comprehend the actions
Civill; concerning the government of Common-wealths, which containeth
under it the whole science of right civilitie. And with Practique,
is also placed Dialectique, the Art of memory, the Grammar, the
Rhetorique, to which also may be joyned the Art Poetique, and of
Histories. But for their particular divisions I am not prolixious,
as inutile to my designe in hand; divers dedicate themselves to the
knowledge of these sciences, not knowing that they forget the most
necessary, to wit, the science of the world.
[The necessary use and honour of Travels.] This is it above all things
that preferreth men to honors, and the charges that make great houses
and Reipublicks to flourish; and render the actions and words of
them who possesse it, agreeable both to great and small. This science
is onely acquisted by conversation, and haunting the company of the
most experimented: by divers discourses, reports, by writs, or by a
lively voyce, in communicating with strangers; and in the judicious
consideration of the fashion of the living one with another. And above
all, and principally by Travellers, and Voyagers in divers Regions, and
remote places, whose experience confirmeth the true Science thereof;
and can best draw the anatomy of humane condition. For which, and
other respects, it holdeth true that the heart of man is insatiable
being set upon whatsoever object, his predominant affection listeth;
neither may reason find place in the violent rapt of such passions,
for as judgement is seldome compatible with youth, but reserved to old
age; so to a unconstant disposition, every accident is a constellation,
by which best thoughts are diversified, & driven from the center of
deepest resolution: whiles contrariwise the sound set man, though by
opportunity altereth his pace, yet still keepeth his way, serveth time
for advantage, not for feare; but as the Sun setteth to rise againe,
so he changeth his course, to continue his purpose. Wherein touching
my particular, whether discontent or curiosity drove me to this second
perambulation, it is best reserved [The Authors Apology.] to my owne
knowledge: As for the opinion of others, I little care either for
their sweetest temper, or their sowrest censure; for they that hunt
after other mens fancies, goe rather to the market to sell than to buy,
and love better to paint the bare fashion and out-sides of themselves,
then to rectify or repaire their owne defects and errours; wherewith I
leave them. Then it is well, if it please me, it is enough; my paines
are mine owne, and not others; and therefore best worthy to judge of my
owne labours, being best knowne to my selfe who dearest bought them:
And so to make short this preamble, or conducing complement I come
to the matter it selfe.
Now as I began my first voyage from Paris, so from London must I
beginne this my second peregrination: whence leaving the Court, the
Countrey and Dover, I courted Caleis, and so to Graveling, Dunkirke,
and fatall Ostend, whose devasted sight gave my Muse this subject.
To view the ruines of thy wasted walles,
Loe! I am come, bewayling thy disgrace,
Art thou this Bourge, Bellona so enstalles
To be the mirrour for a Martiall face:
I, sure its thou, whose bloody bathing bounds,
Gave death to thousands, and to thousands wounds.
What Hostile force, besieg'd thee poore Ostend?
With all Engine, that ever Warre devised:
What Martiall troupes, did valiantly defend
Thine earthen strengths, and Sconces unsurpris'd
By cruell assaults, and desperate defence,
Thine undeserved name, wonne honour thence.
Some deepe interr'd, within thy bosome lye,
Some rot, some rent, some torne in peeces small:
Some warlike maim'd, some lame, some halting crye:
Some blowne through Clouds, some brought to deadly thral,
Whose dire defects, renew'd with ghostly mones,
May match the Thebane, or the Trojan groanes:
Base fisher towne, that fang'd thy nets before,
And drencht into the deepe thy food to win:
Art thou become a Tragicke stage, and more
Whence bravest wits, brave Stories may begin
To show the world, more then the world would crave,
How all thine intrench'd ground, became one grave.
Thy digged ditches, turn'd a gulfe of blood,
Thy wals defeat, were rear'd with fatall bones:
Thine houses equall with the streetes they stood;
Thy limits come, a Sepulcher of groanes:
Whence Cannons ror'd, from fiery cracking smoake
Twixt two extreames thy desolation broake.
Thou God of War, whose thundring sounds do feare
This circled space, plac'd here below the rounds,
Thou in oblivion hast Sepulchrized here,
Earths dearest life, for now what else redounds
But sighes and sobs, when treason, sword, and fire,
Have throwne al down, when al thought to aspire.
Forth from thy marches, and frontiers about
In sanguine hew, thou dy'd the fragrant fields;
The camped trenches of thy foes without
Were turn'd to blood, for valour never yeelds
So bred ambition, honour, courage, hate,
Long three yeares siege, to overthrow thy state.
At last from threatning terrour of despaire,
Thine hembd defendants, with divided walles
Were forcd to rander, then came mourning care
Of mutuall foes, for friends untimely falles:
Thus lost, and got, by wrong, and lawlesse right
My judgement thinkes thee scarcely worth the sight:
But there's the question, when my Muse hath done,
Whether the victor, or the vanquisht wonne.
To flee hence in a word, I measured all the Netherlands with my feete
in two moneths space; the description whereof is so amply set downe by
moderne Authors, that it requireth no more: onely this, for policies,
industries, strong Townes, and fortifications, it is the mirrour of
vertue, and the garden of Mars; yea, and the light of all Europe, that
he who hath exactly trade it, may say [Weisle taken by Spineola.] he
hath seene the mappe of the whole Universe: And now ascending to Cleve,
I came just to Grave Maurice Campe at Rhiese, as Spineola had taken
Weisle; betweene which Armies for five weekes I had free intercourse,
being kindly respected by both the Generalls: for Spineola set me at
his owne table, and I lay in his second Tent nine nights; the Duke of
Newenberg, and Don Pietro di Toledo being there both for the time: So
with the Prince of Orange, with whom I discoursed divers times, was the
Marques of Brandeburg, certaine Nobles, and forraine Ambassadours. All
which time, O how it grieved me to see the tyranny of the Spaniards
dayly executed upon the distressed Protestants of Weisle, over whom
they domineered like Divells: for these afflicted Cittizens, being
heavily oppressed, by their unsupportable usage, were beleagured
with their friends, when they were held captive by their enemies;
and obeying necessity, stayed their bodies within the walles, though
their mindes were without, and intirely with the assailants.
Bidding adew to these Armies, and accompanied with a young Gentleman
David Bruce, the L. of Clekmanan his Sonne, whom I conducted to
Italy: scarcely had we out-stripd Rhyneberg (where Collonell Edmond
was slaine) a Dutch mile, till we were both robbed of our cloaks and
pocket-moneys, with five souldiers French and Vallones; and that within
a Village, women and children beholding us, but no man to relieve us,
they being with Carts serving Spineolaes Campe.
[The fabulous miracles of Culloine.] Whence the next day approaching
Culloine, and bills of change answered, wee visited the falsly supposed
Tombes of the three Kings that came to Bethleem, who as the Romanists
say, lye interred there. O filthy and base absurdnesse for their
holy Mother Church to confirme hellish and erronious leyes; for these
Kings came from the East, and from Chaldea, and not from the North:
Or if they wil have them to die there and so buried, surely this is
even such another damnable errour, surpassing tradition, as their
wandring Jew, the Shoomaker of Jerusalem is, of whom in Rome, they
have wrot ten thousand fables and fopperies: from this we visited the
11000. Virgins heads, Martyres, indeed we saw the Church-walles all
indented about with bare sculles, but whose heads they were, the Lord
knoweth; from thence a Gentleman brought us to a Chappell, within a
Vineyard, called the Chappell of miracles; the originall whereof was
thus. Upon a festivall day, being Vintage time, there came a Peasant to
the Towne, and passing by the Vines (as there is a number within the
wals) did eate his belly full of the grapes; and thereafter hearing a
Masse, was confessed, and received the Sacrament: And returning the
same way he came, and just where he had eaten the Grapes, [A forged
and false miracle.] hee fell a vomiting, and casting up with what hee
had eaten the Holy Sacrament, it straight turned in the likenesse of
a new borne Babe, being bright and glorious. Well, the amazed fellow,
run backe and told his Confessour, what was done, and his offence who
had eaten grapes before the Reception of the Eucharist. The Confessour
told the Bishop, where he, and other Prelates comming to the place,
and beholding as it were an Angell, grew astonished.
In end they wrapped up their little dead god, in a Cambricke vayle,
and there buried it; building this Chappel above the place: where
ever since there is a world of leying miracles done: Loe these are
the novelties of Culloine.
Thence ascending the Rhyne, and coasting Heidleberg, I saluted the
Princesse Palatine, with certayne rare Relickes of the Holy Land. And
leaving Mounsieur Bruce there till my returne, I went for Noorenberg to
discover the sixe Germanes death, whom I had buried in the Desarts, and
Grand-Cayre of Ægypt, for the two Barons were subject to the Marquesse
of Hanspauch: Where having met with some of their Brethren, Sisters,
and Kinsmen, and delated to them their deathes, I was presently
carryed to their Prince the Marquesse, to whom I related the whole
Circumstances. Whereupon a brother of the one Baron, and a sister of
the other, were instantly invested in their Lands; and I likewise,
by them all great regarded and rewarded. And after ten dayes feasting,
reviewing Heidleberg, mine associate and I set forward for Helvetia,
or Switzerland.
This Countrey is divided in thirteene Cantons, sixe whereof are
Protestants, and sixe Papists; the odde Canton being likewise halfe
and halfe. The most puissant whereof is Bierne, whose Territory lying
along the lake reacheth within a League of Geneve. The people, and
their service to most Christian Princes, are well knowne, being Manly,
Martiall and trusty faithfull.
Here in the Canton of Bierne neere to Urbs, wee went and saw a
young Woman, who then had neyther eate, [A woman fasting fourteene
yeares.] nor drunke, nor yet excremented for thirteene yeares,
being truely qualified by her Parents, Friends, Physitians, and
other Visitors. She was alwayes Bed-fast, and so extenuated, that
her Anatomised body carryed nought but Sinew, skin, and bones, yet
was she alwayes mindefull of God. And the yeare after this time,
her body returned agayne to the naturall vigour, in appetite and
all things: and married a husband, bearing two children, dyed in the
fifth yeare thereafter.
The day following, we entred Geneve, where sighting the Towne, the
chiefe Burgo-masters, the seven Ministers, and the foure Captaines
were all familiarly acquainted with me, with whom in diverse places,
I daily feasted and discoursed. The Ministers one night propining me
with a Bible, newly Translated in the Italian tongue, by one of them
selves borne in Milane, told me there was a Masse-Priest sixe Leagues
off, a Curate, of a Village in Madame du longeviles Countrey, who had
gotten in his owne Parish, three Widdowes, and their three severall
Daughters with childe, and all about one time: and for this his
Luxurious Cullions was brought to Dijon to be Executed: Desiring me to
go see the manner, the next day (leaving Master Bruce with them) I went
hither, and upon the sequell day, I saw him hanged upon a new Gallowes,
as high as a stripad: The three mothers and their three Daughters
were set before him, being Gravidato, whose sorrowfull hearts, and
eye-gushing teares for their sinne and shame, were lamentable to
behold: the incestuous Bugerono, begging still mercy and pardon for
dividing their legges, and opening their wretched Wombes. Lo there
is the chastity of the Romish Priests, who forsooth may not marry,
and yet may mis carry themselves in all abhominations, especially in
Sodomy, which is their continuall pleasure and practise. Returning
to Geneve, and acquainting the Magistrates with his Confession,
for they are great Intelligencers, I wrot this literal Distich:
Glance, Glorious Geneve, Gospell-Guiding Gem;
Great God Governe Good Geneves Ghostly Game.
[The Lake of Geneva, and the River Rhone.] The Lake of Geneve is
sixteene Leagues in length, and two broad, at the South-west end
whereof standeth the Towne, through whose middle runneth the River
of Rhone, whose Head and body beginneth from the Lake among the very
houses. The nature of which River is not unlike to Nylus, for when all
other Rivers decrease (being in Summer) this increaseth. Two reasons
proceeding from the excessive Snow that lye upon the Sangalian and
Grisonean Alpes, which cannot melt, till about our longest day, that
the force and face of the Sunne dissolve it. And so ingorging the
Lake, it giveth Rhone such a body, that it is the swiftest River in
Europe. The Towne on both sides the flood, is strongly fortified with
rampierd walles, and counter-banding Bulwarkes; the Ditch without
and about being dry, is mainly pallasaded with wooden stakes, for
preventing of suddain Scallets. Many assaults have this handfull of
people suffered by Land and Water from the Savoyean Duke; the recitall
whereof would plunge me in prolixity; and therefore committing that
Light shining Syon, and her Religious Israelites, to the tuition of
the Almighty, I step over the Alpes to Torine.
[The first beginning of the Duke of Savoy.] Here is the residence of
the Dukes of Savoy, whose beginning sprung first from the house of
Saxon: For Berold or Berauld, being a neere Cousen to the Emperour
Otton the third, and brother to the Saxon Duke; the Emperour gratified
him with these Lands of Savoy, and parts of Piemont; where he and his
Successors continued foure hundred yeares under the title of Earles:
untill the Emperour Sigismond, at the Counsell of Constance, did Create
Amee, the eight Earle of his name Duke. And so beginning with him to
this present Duke now living, named Charles Emanuel, there have been
only eight Dukes, and some of them of short lives. And yet of all the
Christian Dukes, the most Princely Court is kept heere, for Gallants,
Gentry, and Knights.
At the same time, of my being there, this present Duke had wars with
his owne brother in Law Philip the third, about the Marquesade of
Montferrat, and Dutchy of Mantua, the issue whereof, but retorted to
the Duke a redoubling disadvantage; though now it be gone from the
Gonsagaes to the French Duke of Naviers. This Country of Piemont is
a marvailous fruitfull and playne Countrey, and wonderfull populous,
like to the River sides of Arno round about Florence: Insomuch that
a Venetian damaunding a Piemont Cavalier, what Piemont was? Replyed,
it was a Towne of three hundred miles in circuite, meaning of the
Habitations and populosity of the Soyle.
The rest of the surnames of the Italian Dukes are these, viz. that
of Parma is Fernese, signifying Partridges; that of Modena is Astie,
that of Florence de Medicis; that of Urbine, Francesco Maria, and the
last Duke of Mantua, Gonsaga; the Dutchy of Ferrara, being dissolved,
is converted to the Popes patrimony.
Leaving Piemont, and coasting the sassinous shoare of Genoaes revieroe,
I ported Ligorne, the great Dukes Sea-haven; where I left Mr. Bruce
with a Galley Captaine a voluntary Souldier; and inclining alone
to Florence by the [A comfortable crosse.] way at Pestoia, I found
a comfortable crosse; for I sighting the market place after supper,
and carrying a French Ponyard in my pocket, the head of it was espied
by a Badgello, Captaine of the Sergeants, who straight gripped me,
bore me to prison, and clapd me in a Dungeon robbing me of all my
moneyes and Poneyard; and posting that night to Florence on the
morrow shew the Justice there a Stilleto of his owne: upon which
I was condemned to row in the Gallies for a yeare, else to pay a
hundred Duckats: He stayed there three dayes, in this time was I
discovered to the governour of Pistoia, a noble Gentleman, and being
brought before him, and acquainting him with the undeserved cruelty
of the Badgello: nor that I never wore a Stilleto, but under pretext
of that had robbed mee of three-score and twelve pieces of gold:
Whereupon the Governour perceiving the knavery of the Villaine, and
that he had not acquainted him with my apprehending, to whose place it
belonged, he grew immatulent and forthwith sent post to his Highnesse,
shewing him the trueth of the businesse: Whereupon the Badgello was
sent backe to the Governour with whom I was domestickly reserved;
and being accused before my face of his roguery, could not deny it:
well, my gold and my Poneyard is restored againe, the Badgello banished
the territorie of Pistoia for ever, with his Wife and Children, and
I received in compensation of my abuses, from his Highnesse Chamber
or Treasury there, fifty Florentine Crownes of gold, being modified
by the Duke him selfe; whereat I extolled the knave, that wrought his
own wracke in seeking my overthrow, and brought me such a noble reward.
Thanking God for this joyfull crosse and approaching Florence, I
found one John Browne there, whose company I imbraced to Sicilia:
Whence having privatly past Rome, and publickly Naples, we footed
along the marine by [Cousenza in Calabria.] Salerno, and courting
Cousenza, the capitall seate of Calabria where a Vicegerent remaineth,
we reposed there certaine dayes.
The Towne is of no quantity nor quality, in regard of the obscurenesse
and solitarinesse of the Countrey, the better sort of their Gentry
living at Naples: Having left the lower, and entred the higher
Calabria, we arrived at the Bourge of Allavria; and the next morning
traversing close and covert mountaines, twelve miles along, in the
midst of our passage we were beset with foure Bandits and foure Gunnes:
To whom holding up my hand, and imploring for our lives, shewing them
mine adventures and former travells, they unbend their fire-locks,
and reading my patent of Jerusalem, uncovered their heads, and did
me homage, notwithstanding they were absolute murderers: Our lives
and liberty is granted, and for a greater assurance, they tooke us
both in to a great thicket of wood, where their timberd Cabine stood,
and there made merry with us in good Wine and the best cheare their
sequestrate cottage could afford.
And now because there were forty more Bandits their companions among
these mountaines, one of themselves for our safeguard, came along
with us, and as neare Castellucia as he durst; making me sweare that
I should not shew the Baron of that place of their privat residence,
neither that I met with them at all; which I freely did, and so gave
him many hearty and deserved thanks.
[The liberty of Bandits in Calabria.] These Bandits or men-slayers,
will come into any free Towne in the night when they please, and
recovering either a Church or Hospitall, they stay there as they
list, conducing with their friends, their wives, and their affaires;
being as safe in these places as though they had not committed any
criminall fact, neither may the power of Justice reach to them,
so long as they keepe themselves within doores.
This is an auncient liberty which Calabria hath ever retained, and so
is through the most part of all the Spanish Dominions: Having arrived
at Castellucia, the Baron thereof made much of me, and wondred that
I had safely past the mountaines, for said he when I go for Naples,
I am forced to go by sea, notwithstanding I have forty in traine.
The next day in passing Montecilione, the fairest and fruitfullest
bounded Bourg in all Calabria superior; I saw a distectured house;
which the people told me had beene the Schoole, where Dionisius the
third and last Tyrant of Sicilia (after his flight from the Kingdome
and Crowne) taught Children privatly nine yeares, ere hee was knowne
to be a King, but a poore Schoolemaster.
This higher Calabria though mountainous, aboundeth in delicious
Wines, fine pastorage, and exceeding good Silke: The Peasants alwayes
commonly here are addicted to eate Onions, whence rose this Proverbe,
I Calabrese magniano di Cepoli, the Calabrians feed upon Onions. Their
women weare uncomely habits, being hooded from their browes to their
backes behind, with sixe or seven sundry colours of cloth or stuffe;
whose upper gownes come no further downe than their middle thighes:
And their breaches and stockings being all one, and their legges
halfe booted, they looke like the ghostly Armenian Gargosons.
I remember in passing this higher Countrey, I found divers Cassales
or Terraes, (small Villages) of certaine [Greeke Albaneses fled to
Calabria.] Greekes called Albaneses, whose predecessors had fled from
Albania, when the Turke seased upon Epyre, and this their Province;
and was priviledged here to stay by the Spaniard Philip the first:
And though exiled from their naturall Patrimonies, (Omne solum forti
patria est) yet are they exceeding kind to strangers, measuring largely
their owne infranchized fortune, with the voluntary exposement of
many unnecessary Viadants: Declining thence to the marine Bourge of
Molino, being by land which we footed distant from Naples 400. miles;
we crossed the narrow Faro, or Sycilian Euripus, to Messina being
two miles broad. Where, when landed, and meeting with a young Scots
Edenburgensen William Wylie, come from Palermo, and bound for Venice,
I fastned John Browne with him to accompany his returne; and on the
following day imbarked them both backe for Calabria.
And now having followed the Italian saying Si meglior a star solo come
mala accompaniato; It is better for a man to be alone, then in ill
company; I traversed the Kingdome to Trapundie seeking transportation
for Affricke, but could get none: And returning thence overthwart
the Iland, I call to memory being lodged in the Bourge of Saramutza,
belonging to a young Baron, and being bound the way of Castello Francko
eight miles distant and appertaining to another young Noble youth,
I rose and marched by the breach of day; where it was my lucke halfe
way from [Two young Barons killed at combat.] either Towne, to finde
both these beardlesse Barons, lying dead, and new killed in the fields,
and their horses standing tyed to a bush beside them; whereat being
greatly moved, I approached them, and perceiving the bodies to be
richly cled with silken Stuffes facily conjectured what they might be:
My host having told me the former night, that these two Barones were at
great discord, about the love of a young Noble woman; and so it was,
for they had fought the combat for her sake, and for their owne pride
lay slaine here. For as fire is to Gun powder, so is ambition to the
heart of man, which if it be but touched with selfe-love, mounteth
aloft, and never bendeth downeward, till it be turned into ashes.
And here it proved for that Ladies sake, that troppo amore turnd to
Presto dolore: Upon which sight, to speake the trueth, I searched
both their pockets, and found their two silken purses full loaden
with Spanish Pistolls, whereat my heart sprung for joy, and taking
five rings off their foure hands, I hid them and the two purses in
the ground, halfe a mile beyond this place: And returning againe,
leapt to one of their horses, and came galloping backe to Saramutza;
where calling up my host, I told him the accident; who when he saw
the horse gave a shout for sorrow, and running to the Castle told
the Lady the Barons Mother: where in a moment, shee, her children,
and the whole Towne runne all with me to the place, some cled, some
naked, some on foote, and some on horse: where, when come grievous
was it to behold their woefull and sad lamentations. I thus seeing
them all madde and distracted of their wits with sorrow, left them
without good-night: And comming to my Treasure, made speedy way to
Castello Franco, where bearing them the like newes, brought them all
to the like distraction and flight of feet.
Well, in the mutability of time there is aye some fortune falleth
by accident, whether lawfull or not, I will not question, it was now
mine that was last theirs, and to save the thing that was not lost, I
travailed that day thirty miles further to Terra nova. Whence the next
morning beeing earely imbarked for Malta, and there safely Landed;
[A London ship called the Matthew.] I met with a ship of London
called the Mathew, bound for Constantinople lying in the Roade where
indeede with the Company I made merry a shoare for three dayes, and
especially with one George Clarke their Burser, who striving to plant
in my braines a Maltezan Vineyard, had almost perished his owne life.
Upon the fourth day, they hoysing sayle, and I staying a shoare,
it was my good lucke within eight dayes to find a French ship of
Tolon come from the Levante, and bound for Tunneis by the way in
going home. With whom desirously consorted, within three dayes we
touched at our intended Port. And now to reckon the gold that I
found in the aforesayd purses, it amounted to three hundred and odde
double Pistols; and their Rings being set with Dyamonds, were valued
to a hundred Chickens of Malta, eight shillings the peece, which I
dispatched for lesser: But the gold was my best second, which like
Homers Iliades under Alexanders pillow, was my continuall vade Mecum.
Tunneis is the Capitall seate of its owne Territory, and of all
the East and lower Barbary, containing ten thousand fire-houses:
And it is the place where old Carthage stood, that was builded by
the Tyrians and Phenicians of the Holy Land, some three score twelve
yeares before Rome, and had twenty miles in circuit: Which City in
these times, was the soveraigne Queene of Affrick, and the onely envy,
and predominant malice of the Romanes, being more then Romes rivall
mate, in greatnesse, glory, and dominion: Neverthelesse in end, it
was taken, sackt, and burnt by Scipio the Affrican Romane, some sixe
hundred and two yeares after Rome was first founded, and her ruines
and large Territories without, made subject to the ambition of Rome.
[The divers plantations of Carthage.] After which detriment, desolate
Carthage was rebuilded by Cæsar, and a Collony of Italians transported
there, flourished for a time, till it was destroyed and overrunne
by the Gothes and Vandales: And lastly subdued by the Sarazens and
Moores, it was by them transmitted to the Turkish power, who now
is Maister of it, being no way answerable to the sixe part of the
greatnes it had before. This Towne is situate in the bottome of a
Creeke, where the Sea for a mile having cut the bosome of the Land,
maketh a large and safe resting place for ships and galleyes. Which
Haven and Towne is secured from Sea invasions, by the great and strong
Fortresse of Galetto, builded on a high Promontore, that imbraceth the
Sea, and commandeth the mouth of the Bay; wherein a Turkish Bassaw,
and a strong Garrison of Souldiers remaine: the Fort it selfe being
well provided with armes, men, Artillery and munition.
The Kingdome of Tunneis comprehended once the whole Countrey that
the auncients called properly Affrick or little Affrick, being the
old Numidia, and was divided then in these five Provinces, Bugia,
Constantino, that of Tunneis, Tripoly, and Ezzebba. In the Towne
of Bugia, lying halfe way twixt Tunneis and Algeir, and 40. leagues
from either being now called Arradetz, there was auncient beautifull
Temples, Colledges, magnifick buildings, Hospitals, and Convents after
their fashion: but the Towne being taken, and razed Anno 1508. by
Peter King of Navarre, it hath remained ever since without beauty or
ornament, save a few rusticke Inhabitants.
[The marine provinces twixt Tunneis and Algier.] The province of
Constantine, lyeth twixt Tunneis and Bugia; the Towne Constantine,
now Abirouh, being Capitall, and was surnamed Cortes and Julia:
It is begirded with Rockes, and auncient walles contayning eight
hundred fire-houses, wherein are the relicts of an Arke triumphant,
formerly built by the Romanes; and in this Province sixteene leagues
within land, was the Towne of Hippo, now Bosen, whereof St. Augustine
was Bishop.
The Territory of Tunneis, lyeth betweene the borders of Abirouh
Westward, and the limits of Tripoly Eastward, being of length foure
score miles: and on this Sea-coast lyeth the Towne Biserta, adorned
with a commodious Haven, and sixe Gallies, the most scelerate of
condition, and celerious in flying or following of all the cursares in
Turky: Tripoly in Barbary, (commonly called so) was once drowned by
the Sea, but now its situation was transported safely a little more
Southward; which sometimes was beautified with Merchants of Genoa,
Ragusa, and Venice, but now become a den of theeves, and Sea-Pirats,
and so are all the marine Townes, twixt Ægypt and Morocco.
The last Province of the kingdom of Numidia, is Ezzebba lying East from
Tripoly, and confining with Cyreno a pendicle of Ægipt: The chiefest
part whereof is Messaicke being twenty foure Leagues from Tripoly,
contayning many Villages, and Townes on the playnes and Mountaynes,
abounding in Silkes, Cornes, and diverse Fruites.
All these five Maritine Provinces, have but narrow Inlands, not
advancing South-ward from the Sea coast above forty miles. Here in
Tunneis I met with our [An English Pyrat Captaine Waird.] English
Captayne, generall Waird, once a great Pyrat, and Commaunder at Sea;
who in despight of his denied acceptance in England, had turned
Turke, and built there a faire Palace, beautified with rich Marble
and Alabaster stones: With whom I found Domesticke, some fifteene
circumcised English Runagates, whose lives and Countenances were
both alike, even as desperate as disdainfull. Yet old Waird their
maister was placable, and joyned me safely with a passing Land conduct
to Algiere; yea, and diverse times in my ten dayes staying there,
I dyned and supped with him, but lay aboord in the French shippe.
At last having obtayned my pasport from the Bassaw there, and surety
taken for my life and moneyes, I imbraced the Land way with this
Conduct, consisting of forty Moores, and a hundred Camels loaden with
Silkes, Dimmeteis, and other Commodities, traversing the aforesayd
Regions of Abirouh, and Arradetz. In all which way (lying nightly
in a Tent) I found a pleasant and fruitfull Country, abounding in
Wines, Rye, Barly, Wheate, and all kinde of fruites, with innumerable
villages, and so infinitely peopled, that it made me wish there had
beene none at all; otherwise that they had beene Christians, and so
more civill.
The greatest enemy this journey designed mee, was the Sunne, whose
exceeding heate was intollerable to indure, being in September
Anno 1615. But for provision of Water, Wine, and Victuals wee had
abundance. Upon the seaventh day of our course, wee entred in the
[Tremizen in Barbary.] Countrey of Tremizen, formerly Mauritanea
Cæsarea: This Kingdome hath to the West Mauritanea Tingitana,
contayning the Empire of Morocco and Fez. On the South Gotulia or
Desartuous Numidia. On the East with the Rivers of Muluia and Amphlaga,
the Marches of Arradetz. And on the North the Sea Mediterren, opposite
to Sardinia. The Countrey is in length from the East to the West, some
twenty five of their courses, and of our miles about three hundred;
and of breadth betweene the Sea and Gotulia, no more than thirty
English miles.
This copious Kingdome in all things, hath beene oft and ever
molested with the Numidian Sarazens, or bastard Arabs, who falling
downe from the Mountaines, do runne their carriere at random upon
the ground-toyled Moores, to satisfie their needy and greedy
desires. Tremizen or Telensim, had of old foure Provinces, but
now onely two [The Towne of Tremizen decayed with Warres.] its
owne Territory, and that of Algier: Whose capitall Towne being
too cognominated Tremizen, contayned once eighteene thousand fire
houses. But in regard of Josephus King or Fez, who besieged it seaven
yeares, over-mastering it and then subdued by Charles the fifth, and
likewise the Turkes investion of it, and finally because of the long
warres, twixt the Seriff or King there, and the Turke; it is become
a great deale lesser and almost disinhabited, and the most part of
that Countrey subject to the authority of the Bassaw of Algier.
At last upon the twelfth day of our leaving Tunneis, having arrived
at Algier, and abandoning my Conduct with a good respect, I stayed
in a Spaniards house, turned Runagate, who kept a roguish Taverne,
and a ground planked Hospitality. In all this way of twelve score
miles, I payed no Tribute, neyther had I any eminent perrill, the
Country being peaceable, though the people uncivill.
[The theevish Towne of Algier.] This Towne of Algier, was formerly
under subjection to the Kingdome of Tremizen, but because of
insupportable charges it revolted, and rendered to the King of
Arradetz or Bugia: Afterwards it was under the King of Spaine, from
whom Barbarossa did take it Anno 1515. being now under the Turke, and
is situate upon the pendicles of a flat devalling height, and standeth
triangular. The Marine side whereof is strongly fortified, with
earth-back'd walles, Bulwarkes, and Artillery, but the semi-squared
land-walles, are of small importance, and easily to be surprised;
and three miles in circuite, contayning some thirty thousand persons.
There is a Turkish Bashaw here, and a strong Garrison of sixe thousand
Janizaries, with two hundred Cursary ships or Pyrats who ever preying
upon Christian Commercers, by their continuall spoyles and prises, have
made the divelish Towne wonderfull rich; and become the inveterate
enemy of Christendome; being now a Kingdome of it selfe, and in
length from East to West betweene the Townes Terracot and Guargola,
some sixe score miles. It hath a long reaching mould in the Sea, that
maketh a safe harbor for their ships agaynst Northerly windes, which
on that Coast are deadly dangerous. At this time, the greatest part
of the Towne were fled to the mountaynes to shun the parching heate
that beateth violently on the Plaines, and Sea-shore; so doe all the
maritine Townes of Barbary the like every Sommer, for the moneths July,
August, and September: which then being left halfe naked of defence, it
were the onely time for Christianes to invade or surprise their Townes.
I found here abundance of slaves, most of them Spaniards, whom they
dayly constraine within Towne to beare all manner of burdens here and
there, and without Towne to drudge in the fields, amongst their Vines
and Cornes, and other toyling labours, abusing them still with buffets
and bastinadoes as their perverstnesse listeth: Neither durst I leave
my lodging, unlesse I had three or foure Christian slaves to guide
me, and guard me too from scelerate vulgars: who beare no respect
to any stranger nor free Franck. [A naturall sublime policy.] Here I
remarked a wonderfull policy in the Turkish state, concerning these
thiftuous and rapinous Townes of Barbary; who as they are ordained
ever to plague and prey upon the Spaniard, yet under that colour they
licentiat them to make havock and seaze upon all other Christiane
ships, goods, and persons as they please, the French Nation excepted:
And so they doe notwithstanding of our several Ambassadours lying
at Constantinople, who rather stay there as Mungrells than absolute
Ambassadours: for why should Christian Princes meditate for peace and
commerce with the Turke, when theirs, with his subjects the Barbarian
Moores have no safety; they being obedient to his lawes, and over-ruled
by Bassawes, as well as these are of Asia and Easterne Europe: from
which I gather, as from all other like examples, that there is a more
sublime over-mastering policy, subtility, and provident foresight,
in meere naturall men as Turkes be, then in our best Grandeurs, for
all their Sciences, & schoole studies can either perceive or perform
farre less prosecute. To which avowed dangers if any small ship,
ruled by rash fellowes, should adventure within the straites, as too
many English doe, beeing unable and unprovided for defence; and so
are taken & Captivated, and afterward redeemed by Contributions over
the Land: I justly affirme it, they deserve rather to be punished,
and remayne there in punishment, then any reliefe or redemption to
be wrought for them, who will nakedly hazard themselves in knowne
perrils, without Ordonance, munition, and a burdenable ship.
But reverting to my purpose, the marine Provinces which lye betweene
Ægypt and Sewty, over agaynst [The Barbarian Provinces twixt Egypt
and Gibelterre.] Gibelterre being the Straits, are these; Cyrene,
Barca Marmorica, Ezzeba, the Trypolian Jurisdiction, the Kingdomes
of Tunneis, Abirouh, Arradetz, Tremizen, Algier, and a part of Fez;
extending to two thousand and three hundred Maritine miles: All which,
by ignorant Sea-men, and ruvide Moores is tearmed Barbary, who can not
distinguish parts nor provinces, but even as the Orientall Turkes doe,
that denominate all Asia minor, under the name Carmania, and know no
further of their ancient nor particular titles.
Now as concerning their Customes, it is the fashion of all these
Barbarian Moores, in marrying of their wives, that after the
Bridegroome and the Bride are inrolled by their Totsecks or Priests in
the Mosque before the Parents of each party, and the Bride presently
brought home to the house of her Husband, accompanied with al their
Friends, Musicke, and Revelling: He immediatly withdraweth her to
a private Chamber, having onely one old woman standing by them in a
corner of the Roome: where hee lying with the Bride, and shee being
found a Mayde, by a certayne cloath layd under her privy place, which
being by the old Hagge drawne out, and found sprinkled with spots
of blood shee presenteth it first to him, as a token of virginity;
and then forthwith runneth through the house, among all the friends
of the new married couple, crying with a loud voyce, and carrying the
bloody napkin in her hand, the Virgine-bride is broken up; whereat
they all rejoyce, giving rewards and good cheare to the Cryer: [The
tryall of Moorish Brides.] But if the bride be not found a Mayd,
then he returneth her backe unto her Parents which they accompt as
an immortall shame, and the nuptiall feast, and all the assistants
thereunto, are suddenly dismissed: But if a Virgine, the banquet
continueth all the first day, with great cheare, dancings, revellings,
with Musicall Instruments of divers sorts.
The second night is onely the feast of women for both parties; and
the third banquet is made on the seventh day after the nuptiall, the
provision of which the father of the Bride sendeth to the house of
his new sonne in law: where after this banquet, and the seventh day,
in the next morning the Bridegroome goeth then abroad from his house
(which hee doth not till the aforesayd time) unto the market place,
where he buyeth a number of fish to carry with him to his dwelling,
as a signe of good lucke, it being an auncient custome through the
most part of all the Notherne Affrick.
The men and women at such meetings dance a part, each of them having
their own Musicke and orders of merriment.
They have also a custome that when Infants beginne to breed teeth,
their Parents will make a solemne feast to all the Children of the
Towne, with divers ceremonies; which custome they reserve yet, in
divers parts of Italy.
The women through all Barbary, weare abundance of Bracelets on their
armes, and Rings in their eares, but not through the nose and lips
as the Ægyptians doe; and turne also the nayles of their hands and
feete to red, accounting it a base thing to see a white naile: The
men here for the most part, are the best Archers, and Horse-men that
are in Affrick, and take great pleasure in breeding of their Barbes:
So are they both active and couragious, and very desperate in all
their attempts, being all of the Mahometanicall Religion, though
more ignorant thereof than the Turkes: some whereof are subject to
the Turke, some to the Emperour of Morocco, and some to their owne
barbarous Princes.
And now it was my fortune here in Algier, after 12. [Monsieur
Chatteline a French Lapidator.] dayes abode, to meete with a French
Lapidator, Monsieur Chatteline borne in Aise du Provance, who intending
to visit Fez, joyned company with me, and we with certaine Merchants
of Algier that were going hither: being in all 30. passengers, with
two Jannizaries and a Dragoman.
Whence advancing our way, some on Mules, and some on foote, with Asses
carrying our baggage and provision; we left the marine Townes of Saly
and Tituana, far to the West on our right hand, and facing the in-land
wee marched for three dayes through a fruitfull and populous soyle:
And although the peoples barbarous and disdainefull countenances were
awfull, yet we two went still free of tributs, as not being a thing
with them accustomary, to execute exaction on Francks as the Turkes and
Moores do in Asia, neither understood they what wee were, being cled
with company, and after their fashion: save onely that nature had set
a fairer stamp on my face, than theirs, which oft I wished had beene
as blacke as their uglines. In this misculat journeying of paine &
pleasure we found every where strong Wines, abundance of excellent
bread, and the best, and greatest Hens bred on the earth, with plenty
of Figges, Fruits, Olives, and delicious oyle, yea, and innumerable
Villages, the houses whereof are all builded with mudde, and platformed
on their tops; and so are they in Asia, and all Affrick over.
Upon the fourth day having past the Plaines, we entered in a hilly
Countrey, yet pastorable; where I beheld here and there clouds of
Tents, filled with maritine people, that were fled hither from the
Sea coast for the fresh and cooling ayre.
And upon these pleasant and umbragious heights, I saw the fields
overcled with flocks of Sheepe and Goats: which Sheepe are wondrous
great, having from their rumpes and hips, broad and thicke tayles
growing, and hanging to the ground, some whereof when sold, will weigh
16. 18. or 20. pounds weight, and upwards. Here among the mountaines,
our company knowing well the Countrey, tooke a great advantage of
the way, and on the seventh day in the morning, [Mine arrival at
Fez.] wee arrived at the great Towne of Fez: where the French man
and I were conducted by some of our company to a great Moorish Inne
or Taverne: & there received, we were as kindly & respectively used,
as ever I was in any part of the Turks Dominions, being now out of
them, & in the Empire of Morocco.
This City of Fez is situate upon the bodies and twice double devalling
faces of two hills, like to Grenada in Andelosia in Spaine; the
intervale, or low valley betweene both (through which the torride River
of Marraheba runneth Southward) being the Center and chiefest place,
is the most beautifull and populous part of the City; the situation
of which, and of the whole, is just set under the Tropick of Cancer.
Over which River, and in this bottome, there are three score and
seaven Bridges of stone and Timber, each of them being a passage for
open streetes on both sides. The intervayle consisteth of two miles
in length, and halfe a mile broad; wherein, besides five Chereaffs
or Market places, there are great Palaces, magnificke Mosquees,
[Great Colledges and Hospitalls.] Colledges, Hospitals, and a hundred
Palatiat Tavernes, the worst whereof, may lodge a Monarchicke trayne:
Most part of all which buildings, are three and foure stories high,
adorned with large and open Windowes, long Galleries, spacious
Chambers, and flat tectures or square platformes.
The streetes being covered above, twixt these plaine-set Fabrickes,
have large Lights cut through the tectur'd tops every where; in whose
lower shoppes or Roomes are infinite Merchandize, and Ware of all
sorts to bee sold.
The people of both kindes are cloathed in long breeches and bare
Ancles, with red or yellow shooes shod with Iron on the Heeles, and
on the Toes with white Horne; and weare on their bodies long Robes
of Linning or Dimmety, and silken Wast-coates of diverse Colours:
The behaviour of the Vulgars being far more civill toward Strangers
then at Constantinople; or else where in all Turkey.
The Women here go unmasked abroad, wearing on their heads, broad,
and round Capes, made of Straw or small Reedes, to shade their faces
from the Sunne; and damnable Libidinous, beeing prepared both wayes
to satisfie the lust of their Luxurious Villaines; neyther are they
so strictly kept as the Turkish Women, marching where they please.
There are some twelve thousand allowed Brothell-houses in this
Towne, the Courtezans being neatly kept, and weekely well looked
to by Physitians; but worst of all, in the Summer time, they openly
Lycentiat three thousand common Stewes of Sodomiticall boyes: Nay I
have seene at mid-day, in the very Market places, the Moores buggering
these filthy Carrions, and without shame or punishment go freely away.
There are severall Seates of Justice heere (though none to vindicate
beastlinesse) occupied by Cadeis and Sanzackes, which twice a
Weeke heare all differences and complaints: their chiefe Seriff,
or Vicegerent, being sent from Morocco, is returned hither agayne
every third yeare.
[The beauty and greatnes of Fez.] The two Hills on both sides the
planur'd Citty, East, and West, are over-cled with streetes and Houses
of two stories high, beeing beautified also with delicate Gardens,
and on their extreame devalling parts, with numbers of Mosquees and
Watch-towers: On which heights, and round about the Towne, there
stand some three hundred Wind-mils; most part whereof pertayne to
the Mosques, and the two magnifick Colledges erected for education
of Children, in the Mahometanicall Law.
One of which Accademies, cost the King Habahennor in building of it,
foure hundred and three score thousand Duckets. Jacob sonne to Abdulach
the first King of the Families of Meennons, divided Fez in three parts,
and with three severall Walles, though now invironed with onely one,
and that broken downe in sundry parts.
The chiefest Mosque in it, is called Mammo-Currarad, signifying the
glory of Mahomet, being an Italian mile in Compasse, and beautified
with seventeene high ground Steeples, besides Turrets and Towers:
having thirty foure entring Doores; beeing supported within, and
by the [The modell of the great City of Fez.] length, with forty
eight pillars, and some twenty three Ranges of pillars in breadth,
besides many Iles, Quires, and circulary Rotundoes: Every Pillar
having a Lampe of Oyle burning thereat; where there, and through the
whole Mosque, there are every night nine hundred Lamps lighted; and
to maintaine them, and a hundred Totsecks and preaching Talsumans,
the rent of it extendeth to two hundred Duccats a day: Neverthelesse
there are in the City besides it, more then foure hundred and
threescore [The magnifick Mosque of Fez.] Mosquees; fifty whereof
are well benefited and superbiously decored within and without, with
glorious and extraordinary workmanship, whose rooffes within are all
Mosaick worke, and curiously indented with Gold, and the walles and
pillars being of grey Marble, interlarded with white Alabaster, and
so is the chiefe Mosque too in which Monsieur Chatteline and I had
three sundry recourses accompanied with our Moorish hoste, who from
their Priests had procured that licence for us. This City aboundeth
in all manner of provision fit for man or beast, & is the goodliest
place of all North Affrick, contayning a hundred and twenty thousand
fire-houses, and in them a million of soules: Truely this is a world
for a City, and may rather second Grand Caire, than subjoyne it selfe
to Constantinople, being farre superior in greatnesse with Aleppo:
For these are the foure greatest Cities, that ever I saw in the world,
either at home or abroad.
The Cittizens here are very modest and zealous at their divine
services, but great dauncers and revellers on their solemne festivall
dayes, wherein they have Bull-beating, Maskerats, singing of rimes,
and processions of Priests. The Moores in times past of Fez and
Morocco, had divers excellent personages, well learned, and very
civill; for amongst the Kings Mahometan one can not praise too much
the Kings Almansor, Maunon, and Hucceph, being most excellent men in
their superstition.
In whose times flourished the most famous medicines, and Philosophers
that were among the Pagans, as A Vicenne, Rasis, Albumazar, Averroes,
&c. with other great numbers maintained by the Kings of Morocco, that
then were Masters of all Barbary and Spaine: As in Spaine may be seene
yet, (though now fallen in decay) a great number of their Colledges,
shewing they were great lovers of their Religion and Doctrine, and
are so to this day, save onely in their drinking of Wine forbidden
by their Alcoran. They were great devisers too of gallant sportings,
exercises, turnaments, and Bull-beating, which Spayne retaineth to
this time; yea, and the Romanes did learne, and follow many of them.
Here in Fez there be a great number of Poets, that make Songs on divers
subjects, especially of Love, and Lovers, whom they openly name in
their rimes, without [Poets among Barbarians in great request.] rebuke
or shame: All which Poets once every yeare, agane Mahomets birth-day,
make rimes to his praise; meanewhile in the after noone of that
festivall day, the whole Poets assembling in the market place, there is
a Dasked chayre prepared for them, whereon they mount one after another
to recite their verses in audience of all the people; and who by them
is judged to be best, is esteemed all that yeare above the rest,
having this Epithite the Prince of Poets, and is by the Vicegerent
and Towne rewarded; But in the time of the Maennon Kings, the Prince
on that day in his owne Pallace did conveine the whole Cittizens, in
whose presence he made a solemne feast to all the best Poets; causing
every one of them to recite the praise of Mahomet before his face,
standing on a high scaffold: And to him that was thought to excell
the rest, the King gave him 100. Sultans of gold, an horse, a woman
slave, & the long Robe that was about him for the time: And to each
one of the rest he caused give fifty Sultans, so that every one should
have some recompense for their paines: Indeed a worthy observance;
and would to God it were now the custome of our Europian Princes to
doe the like, and especially of this Ile, then would bravest wits, and
quickest braines, studdy and strive to show the exquisit ingeniosity
of their best styles, and pregnant invention, which now is ecclipsed,
and smotherd downe, because now a dayes, there is neither regard nor
reward for such excellent Pen-men. Fez was aunciently named Sylda,
whose Kingdome hath Atlas to the South, the River of Burdraga to the
East, and Tremizen: Morocco to the West: And the confynes of Guargula,
and a part of the Sea to the North: Having spent in Fez 17. dayes,
in all which time, we daily conversed with some Christian Abasines,
[Heragens or Ethiopian Negroes.] Heragenes, or Æthiopian Nigroes, some
whereof were Merchands, and some religious; and Monsieur Chattelines
businesse not effected, seeking Diamonds and precious stones to buy;
was seriously advised by them, to goe for Arracon, a great Towne
on the Frontiers of the Northerne Æthiopia: where he would finde
abundance of such at an easie rate, giving him a perfit direction for
his passage hither being 30. daies journey: he concluded with their
counsell his resolution, and perswading me to the same intention,
I yeeld, being over-mastred with the greedy desire of more sights.
Meanewhile for our conduct, we hire a Dragoman Moore that spoke
Italiens to be our Interpreter, and with him a Tent, and two Moorish
drudges to guide, guard, & serve us by the way of fifty eight Sultans
for gold, eighteene pounds foure shillings English: having sixe
of their Kinsmen fast bound to a Sanzak or Justice, for our lives,
liberties, and moneyes.
Hereupon having provided our selves, with all necessary things, and
a Mule to carry our Victuals, Water and Baggage, we discharged our
conscionable Hostage, at twenty Aspers a day the man, being thirty
foure shillings to each of us; and were brought on our way, by the
aforesayd Christian Heragenes some foure Leagues. Where having left
them with dutifull thankes, wee set forward in our journey, and for
seaven dayes together wee were not violently molested by any thing,
save intollerable heate, finding tented people and scattered Villages
all the way.
The eight day, the way being fastidious and Rockey, [Chatteline the
French Lapidator taken sicke.] and Chatteline on foot, he succumb'd,
and could not subsist, not beeing used to pedestriall travayle; and
for our better speed and his reliefe, wee mounted him aloft on the
top of our baggage. At last arriving at Ahetzo (where we reposed)
being the furthest and South-most Towne of the Kingdome of Fez,
composed of a thousand fire-houses, well fortified with Walles, and
a Garrison of Moores in it, subject to the Emperour of Morocco: the
French-man long or day, fell sicke of a burning Feaver: Whereuppon wee
stayed five dayes expecting his health, which growing worse and worse,
and hee mindfull to returne, which I would not: I left him in safe
custody, and one of our Drudges to attend him till Fez. And bearing
the charges of the other two, according to the former condition:
I set forward for my purpose, which ere long turned to sad Repentance.
Leaving Ahetzo behind us, and entring the Countrey of the Agaroes,
we found the best inhabitants halfe cled, the Vulgars naked, the
Countrey voyd of Villages, Rivers, or Cultivage: but the soyle rich
in Bestiall, abounding in Sheep, Goates, Camels, Dromidores, and
passing good horses: Having an Emeere of their owne, being subject
to none, but to his owne passions, and them to the disposition
of his scelerate nature; yet hee, and they had a bastard show of
Mahometanicall Religion: Their Bestiall are watered with sources,
and the pastorable fields, with the nightly Serene, and themselves
with the Watrish concavity of the earth. In our sixe dayes toyle,
traversing this Countrey, we had many troubles and snarlings from
these Savages, who sometimes over-laboured us with Bastinadoes, and
were still inquirous what I was, and whether I went; yea, and enough
for the Dragoman to save my life and liberty.
Having past the perverstnesse of this calamity, upon the seaventh
day, wee rancountred with another soyle, [The Tribe of the Hagans
or Jamnites.] and worser tribe of the Hagans or Jamnites, most part
whereof were white Moores, a people more uglye then the Nigroes, yet
some of the better sort had their members covered, but of condition
farre more wicked then the former.
They are ruled by a Seriff, whose Guard is composed of women, and
young Balars, pages; seeming rather to live without Religion, then
acknowledging any kinde of Deity. Here my Dragoman, doubting of his
passage, and the difficilnesse of the Countrey, which arose from his
ignorantnesse thereof, was inforced to hyre a Hagan guide, to bring
us to the province of Abadud, bordering with Æthiopia. But by your
leave, our guide having led us for five dayes together South-eastward,
and almost contrary to our purpose: in the sixt night of our Repose,
he stole away, eyther for feare or falshood, mistaking our journey,
or deceiving us for despight, the halfe of his Wages being payed
him before. Well, the Villaine gone, and my Dragoman the next day
continuing our faces, in the same Arte, wee were long or night involved
in a dis-inhabited Country, being Desartuous and dangerous for Wilde
beasts, and full of Mountaynes. Pitching our Tent neare to a Rocke,
we burnt all that night shrubs of Tara, to affright the Beasts of
all kinds, and so did we every night of that wofull wandring, which
flaming light their nature cannot abide. Day come, and our comfort
yet fresh, we sought further in, thinking to finde people and Tents
to relieve us with Victuales, and informe us of the Countrey, but we
found none, neither seven daies thereafter. The matter growing hard,
and our victuals and water done, we were forced to relye upon Tobacco,
and to drinke our owne wayning pisse, for the time aforesayd.
The Soyle we daily traced, was covered with hard and soft Sands,
and them full of Serpents, being interlarded with Rockey heights,
faced with Caves and Dens: the very habitacle of Wilde beasts, whose
hollow cryes, as we heard in the night, so we too often sighted
their bodies in the [The Wilde Beasts of the Libian Desarts.] day,
especially Jackals, Beares, and Boares, and sometimes Cymbers, Tygers,
and Leopards, agaynst whom in the day time if they approached us,
we eyther shot off a Harquebuse, or else flashed some powder in the
Ayre; the smell whereof, no ravenous beast can abide.
This vast Wildernesse is a part of the Berdoans Countrey, one of
the foure tribes of the olde Lybians, the Sabuncks, the Carmines,
and the Southerne Garolines, being the other three. And now to helpe
the expression of my grievous distresse and miseries, my Muse must
lament the rest.
Ah! sightlesse desarts! fil'd with barren Sands!
And parched plaines; where huge and hilly lands
Have stone-fac'd scurrile bounds: O monstrous feare!
What destiny, drove my cross'd Fortune here?
By day I'me scoarch'd with heate, by night the grounds
Are cled with beasts; whose rage sends horrid sounds
Of dreadfull death: whence we to shunne their ire,
Are forc'd to fright them, with bright Tara fire:
For if it were not, that they scarr'd at Light,
No man could walke, or rest, safe in the night.
Then next and nigh, the crawling Serpents lurke
Still under foote, some stung-swolne smart to worke;
Which moove the Sands like Seas, in seeking shade,
Where 'mongst their linking roles, I'me forc'd to wade:
Whose neckes like legs are round, their bodies strong,
With blacke-spred backes, their length full two yards long:
Yet whilst I cut, and crush their warbling wombe,
I point their death, their skin, I make their tombe.
But worst I'me hungerbit, and starving slaine
With pinching want, a sore-sunke gnawing paine:
O helplesse torture! second'd with great drouth
And fiery thirst, that scabbe my lips and mouth:
Where for fine lyquor, as my heart would wish,
Stress'd wandring I, am forc'd to drinke my pisse:
So turnes my food to smoake, the smoake to ashes
Which twice a night, we three do spend in flashes:
Last casts my face the skin, my skin the colour,
And spewing forth fled joyes, I drinke in dolour.
Thus with the Torrid Zone, am I opprest,
And lock'd twixt Tropickes two, which me invest.
Where for reliefe, I pierc'd the Heavens with cryes,
And cut the Clouds, to grieve the azure skies
With sighs and grones; yet carefull to regard
My curious drifts, had got their just reward.
But to shorten my Discourse, of barren Wildernesses, supposed to
be a part of the Lybian Desarts, my Dragoman upon the fourth day
of our seaven being there, falling in despaire, and wondring to see
me indure such heate, such hunger, and such toyle, did threaten mee
with death, to make me seeke backe for our nearest refuge: Whereupon
holding our course North-east, my compasse-Dyall being our guide,
we rancountred earely on the eight day, with nine hundred Savages,
naked Lybian Sabunks: five hundred whereof, were women armed with
Bowes and Arrowes; who with their complices, the former night had
put to the sword, three hundred Berdoanes, their neighbour tribe:
carrying away above sixe thousand Sheepe and Goats besides other
bestiall: from whom after our sight of their Emeere or Prince, we had
first liberty of life, and then reliefe of food; for he came up in the
Reare, with a hundred Horse-men charged with halfe Pikes, headed at
[The prince of the Sabuncks apparrell.] both ends with sharpe Steele:
The person of their Prince was onely clothed from his breasts downe to
his middle thigh with a Crimson vayle of Silke, hanging on his naked
shoulders with coloured Ribans, and on his head a party coloured Shash
set like a Garland: Both his knees were bare, so were his ancles,
the calves of his legges being girded with Crimson Silke, and on his
feet yellow shooes; his beard was like his face, burnt with the Sun,
and his age like to my owne, of 33. yeares, his Religion is damnable,
so is his life, for hee and all the foure tribes of Lybia worship onely
for their God, Garlick, having Altars, Priests, and superstitious
rites annexed to it: Thinking Garlicke, being strong of it selfe,
and the most part of their food, to have a soveraigne vertue in a
herball Deity. All his Courtiers were starke naked saving his Page,
who was even covered like to the King his Master.
And now having dismissed his Army for the way, and falling in a
houres parley with us at his departure, he propyned me with his Bowe,
& a Quiver of Arrowes, which afterward, I presented to his Majesty,
then Prince.
There is a merry secret heere concerning the women, which often
I recited to King James of Blessed memory, showing him also three
Certificates of this my Desartuous wandring: one of which was confirmed
by English Waird at Tunneis upon the Dragomans Report; though now they
with all my other Patents are lost, in the Inquisition of Malaga. This
former savage Prince sent a Guide with us for foure dayes journey,
the condition of his mans Wages being made by himselfe, and franckly
advised us that Tunneis was our best and nearest Recourse. Which
being forcibly considered, I was constrayned to renew my bargaine
agayne with the Dragoman, at the rate of forty five Sultans of gold,
to bring me safely hither.
This Sabunck Guide, to whom I gave five Sultans, thirty five shillings,
brought us through the most Habitable vallies, and best cled passages
of the Countrey with Tents: where every day once we found Water, Bread,
Garlicke and Onions, and sometimes Hennes at twenty Aspers the peece,
two shillings; which we would Rost, or scorch dry (if trueth may have
credite) at the very face of the Sunne, and so eate them. Upon the
fift day, our Guide leaving us in the after-noone, well setled among
foure hundred Tents of Numidian Moores, or bastard Arabians, pitched
in a pleasant Valley, betweene two sources of Water, wee stayed still
there Reposing our selves, and Refreshing our bodies with Victuals,
some nine dayes.
[Moorish Smiths forging horse-shooes out of cold Iron without fire,
but the heat of the Sun.] Heere among these Tents, I saw Smiths Worke
out of cold Iron, Horse-shooes, and Nayles, which is onely molified
by the vigorous heate and Raies of the Sunne, and the hard hammering
of hands upon the Anvile: So have I seene it also in Asia. I could
bee more particular here, but Time, Paper, Printing, and charges will
not suffer me. And now from hence, renewing our Guides from place to
place, and discending from Savage Moores to Civill Moores, we arrived
(though with great difficulty and danger) safely at Tunneis.
[The Beglerbegship of Barbary.] And to conclude this Eight Part,
there are three Beglerbergships in the higher and lower Barbary:
The first is at Trypolis, which was taken in by Sinan Bassa from
the Knights of Malta 1551. and commaundeth under him eight thousand
Tymariots, besides sixe thousand Jannizaries. The second is at Tunneis,
the Beglerbeg whereof, being of great Authority, commaundeth under
him twelve Sanzackes, and thirty five thousand Tymariots. The third
is, that of Algier, whose Bassa hath under him fourteene Sanzacks,
and the commaundment of forty thousand Tymariots. These are all the
Beglerbegs, the Great Turke retayneth in Affricke, except the great
Vizier-Bassa of Ægipt: although in Asia major and Minor, he commandeth
in severall Provinces and Kingdomes, thirty Bassaes or Beglerbegs.