Tunneis beene sightlesse left, I sought the Ile
Of little Malta: famous for the stile
Of honour'd Knight-hood, drawne from great Saint John,
Whose Order and the Manner, I'le expone:
Whence Coasting Sicilie, a tripled view
I tooke of Ætna: Time discussing you
A miracle of Mettall; for its Kind
Is nurs'd by Raine, and suffled up with wind:
And thwarting Italy, the Venice Gulfe,
Carindia, Carneola, the stiffe stream'd Dolf;
Head-strong Danubio, Vienne, Austriaes Queene,
And Kinde Moravia, set before mine eyne.
To Hungary I came, and Vallechie,
The Transilvanian Soile, and Moldavie.
Whence sighting Polle, and many Scotsmans face,
I Kiss'd Sigismonds hands, at Warsow place:
Whence Swethland I, and Denmarke last bewray,
Noruegia too, in my sought London way;
Where bin arriv'd, safe on the brow of Thames,
To Court I came, and homag'd Royall James.
And now my Wish, and my arrivall, being both desirous for a while
setled in Tunneis, I dispatched my Dragoman, and the other Barbarian
hireling, with a greater consideration, then my two former conditions
allowed me: Yet being urged to it by Captaine Wairds decernitour, I
freely performed his Direction. My Conduct gone, and I staying heere,
Captayne Waird sent twice one of his servants with me to see two
sundry Ovens drawne, beeing [The hatching of Chicken without their
mothers.] full of young Chickens, which are not hatched by their
mothers, but in the Fornace, being thus. The Oven is first spred over
with warme Camels dung, and upon it the Egges, closing the Oven.
Then behind the Oven, there is a daily conveyance of heate, venting
through a passage beneath the dung, just answerable to the naturall
warmnesse of the Hens belly; upon which moderation, within twenty
dayes they come to naturall perfection. The Oven producing at one time,
three or foure hundred living Chickens, and where defection is, every
sharer beareth a part of the losse; for the Hatcher or Curator, is
onely Recompensed according to the living numbers be delivered. Surely
this is an usuall thing, almost through all Affricke, which maketh
that the Hennes with them are so innumerable every where.
And now it was my good fortune, after five Weekes attendance for
Transportation, being about the 14. of February 1616. to meete here
with a Holland ship called the Marmaide of Amsterdam, beeing come
from Tituana, and bound for Venice and Malta, touched here by the
[Captaine Dansers imployment.] way. In this time of their staying,
came one Captayne Danser a Fleming, who had beene a great Pyrate and
Commaunder at Seas, and the onely inveterate enemy of the Moores;
beeing imployed by the French King in Ambassage, to relieve two and
twenty French Barkes that were there Captivated, done by the policy
of the Bashaw, to draw Danser hither; notwithstanding that hee was
then Retired, and marryed in Marseilles.
Well, he is come, and Anchored in the Roade, accompanied with two
French Gentlemen: Two of which came a shoare, and saluted the Bashaw in
Dansers behalfe: they are made welcome, and the next day the Bashaw
went franckly a boord of Danser, seconded with twelve followers:
Danser tooke the presence of the Bashaw for a great favour, and mainely
feasted him with good cheare, great quaffing, sounding Trumpets, and
Roaring shots, and none more familiar then the dissembling Bashaw,
and over-joyed Danser, that had relieved the Barkes, for they were
all sent to him that morning, not wanting any thing.
After deepe cups, the Bassaw invites him to come a shoare, the day
following, and to dine with him in the Fortresse: To the which unhappy
Danser graunted, and the time come, he landed with twelve Gentlemen,
and nearing the Castle, was met with two Turkes to receive him:
where having past the draw-bridge, & the gate shut behind him, his
company was denied entrance: where forthwith Danser being brought
before the Bassaw, was strictly accused of many ships, spoyles,
and great riches he had taken from the Moores, and the mercilesse
murther of their lives, for he never spared any: [The untimely death of
Captayne Danser a Fleming born.] Whereupon he was straight beheaded,
and his body throwne over the walles in a ditch; which done, off went
the whole Ordonance of the Fort, to have sunke Dansers two ships; but
they cutting their cables, with much adoe escaped, but for the other
Gentlemen a shoare, the Bassaw sent them very courteously and safely
aboord of the redeemed Barks, whence they hoised Sayles for Marseilles.
Loe there was a Turkish policy more sublime and crafty, than the
best Europian alive could have performed. A little while thereafter,
the afore-said Hollander being ready to goe for Sea, I bad goodnight
to Generous Waird, and his froward Runagates, where being imbarked,
with prosperous windes upon the third day, wee landed at Malta, and
there leaving my kind Flemings and their negotiation, I courted the
shoare, saluting againe my former hoste.
The fift day of my staying here, I saw a Spanish Souldier and a
Maltezen boy burnt in ashes, for the publick profession of Sodomy,
and long or night, there were above a hundred Bardassoes, whoorish
boyes that fled away to Sicilie in a Galleyot, for feare of fire
but never one Bugeron stirred, being few or none there free of it:
The Knights that remaine here, as they are of divers howsoever,
they of the better sort, are resolute in their atchievements.
The Maltezes aunciently did adore the Goddesse Juno, whose Temple was
superbiously adorned with rich decorements, and to which for homage
and devotion, came all the Inhabitants of the circumjacent Iles;
bringing rich presents and gifts; and they were also honored with
the Temple of Hercules, the ruines of which appeare to this day.
Now as for their order of Knighthood, the oath which is made at their
receiving, in the order of St. John, or of the [The formall oath of
the Knights of Malta.] Religion of the holy Hospitall of Jerusalem,
is thus: I vow, and promise to God, to the most blessed Virgin Mary,
the Mother of God, and to our glorious Patrone St. John the Baptist,
that by the grace and helpe of Heaven, I shall ever be obedient to
the superiour, that God and this Religion have appointed; and from
henceforth that I shal live chast, forsaking Marriage, and all other
lusts, and to be without the proper possession of any thing that may
be mine.
After this, the Chappell clarke, a Priest of the order, receiving
him with divers ceremonies, taketh a blacke Cloak in his hand, and
shewing him the white crosse that is fixed thereon; demandeth if he
doth not beleeve that to be the signe of the Crosse, whereon Jesus
Christ was crucified for our sinnes, he confesseth it, kissing the
Crosse: After which, his receiver putteth the crosse of the Cloake
upon the heart and left side of the new made Knight, saying: Receive
this signe in the name of the trinity, the blessed Mother of God,
the Virgin Mary, and of St. John the Baptist, for the augmentation of
the Catholick faith, the defence of the Christian name and service
of the poore: Also we put this crosse on thy left side, to the end,
that thou mayst love it with all thy heart, and with thy right hand
for to defend it: And in fighting against the enemies of Jesus Christ,
thou shalst happen to flee, and leave this holy Signe behind thee,
thou shalst of good right be depraved of this holy religious order,
and of our company: This done, he knitteth the Cordon of the Cloake
about him saying; Receive the yoake of our Lord that is sweet, and
light, and thou shalst find rest for thy soule: This spoke, he kisseth
the Cordon, and so doe all the circumstanding Knights, and there are
made unto him divers Orations and precepts, contained in the Booke
of their Ordinances: They have a Priest-hood too of this same order,
being Masse-Priests that weare this badge of the white Crosse.
Now bidding farewell to Malta, and to mine aforesayd Countrey Gentleman
William Dowglas, I landed the next morning at Sicly in Sicilia,
being twenty leagues distant. And now this being the third time of
my traversing this Kingdome, (triple experience, deeper knowledge)
I begin to give you a perfit description thereof.
[The first denominations of Sicilia.] Sicilia was first named Trinacria
(whose figure is Triquetria) for that being triangular, it butteth
into the Sea with three Promontories: Capo di coro, South, Cap di
passaro West: and Cap di saro East: The length of each triangle from
point to point, being 200. miles.
Terra tribus scopulis, vastum procurrit in æquor,
Trinacris a positu, nomen adepta loci.
An Ile with corners three, out-braves the Mayne
From whence the name Trinacry it doth gaine.
It is now called Sicilia from the Siculi or Sicani who possessed it,
and hath beene famous in all former ages:
By Diodorus Siculus, it was cognominated the Paragon of Iles: By Titus
Livius, the Garden of Italy: It was also aunciently called the Grange
of the Romanes, and is never a whit decayed to this day.
The length of the Iland lyeth East and West, in circuit sixe hundred,
large fifty, and in length two hundred fourty Italian miles: [The
fertility of Sicilia.] The soyle is incredible fruitfull, excelling in
all sorts of graine, as cornes, Wheat, Wine, Sugar, Ryce, Oyle, Salt,
Allom, all kinds of fruit, wholesome Hearbs, exceeding good Silke,
exquisite mines of mettall, and the best Corall in the world is found
here, beside Trapundy; growing under the water greene and tender,
but when arising above, it becommeth red and hard: The like whereof
is sayd to be found in the red-Sea, and gulfe of Persia.
The most of the Townes and Villages within land, are [Townes set on
heights reserve good ayre.] builded on the highest hills and greatest
heights in the Countrie; the reason is two-fold; first it serveth them
for strength, and a great defence in time of cursarary invasions,
of which divers bee so strait in ascending, that one man may easily
resist and beat downe five hundred. The second is, because their
dwellings being farre above the parching Plaines, these situations
are good preservatives for their health, whereon they have a sweet
and cooling ayre, which in such a hot climat, is the soveraigne salve
to prevent sicknesse.
Their Villages be farre distant, some sixe, ten, fifteene, twenty miles
one from another; in all which grounds there is no sequestrate house,
unlesse (being a high way) it be a Fundaco or Inne. About the sides
of the hills, whereon their Townes stand, grow all their Wines,
and on the Plaines nothing but red Wheat, which for goodnesse is
unparalelled, and the best bread and abundance of it in the world
is here. Sicilia was formerly devided in [The auncient divisions of
Sicilia.] three Regions, to wit, the valley of Demonia, containing
Ætna, Catagna, Messina, and that angle of Cap di faro, of old Pelora:
The other the valley of Neitia, containing Syracusa, Terra nova,
and the angle of Cap di Cora of old, of Lilibea; and the third was
the valley of Matzzara contayning Palermo, Trapundy, Malzara, and the
angle of Cap di passero old Pachinum: Many thinke that Sicilia was
rent from Italy by the violence of waters, at the generall Deluge,
some by infinit earthquakes, and some simply conjecture the cause to
have proceeded from combustious Ætna, which is meere ridiculous.
There are divers grounds and valleyes in this Ile, that abound so
in Wheat, that the Inhabitants recoyle a hundred measures for one,
and commonly are called the fields of a hundred measures.
[Sicilians are brave Orators.] The Sycilians for the most part are bred
Orators, which made the Apulians tearme them, men of three tongues:
Besides they are full of witty sentences, and pleasant in their
rancounters, yet among themselves, they are full of envy (meaning
their former kindnesses was unto strangers) suspicious and dangerous
in conversation, being lightly given to anger and offences, and ready
to take revenge of any injury comitted: But indeed I must confesse,
more generously than the Italians, who murder their enemies in the
night; for they appeale other to single combat, and that manfully
without fraudulent practices.
They are curious, and great lovers of novelties, and full of quicknesse
and rare inventions in all kind of Sciences, great intelligencers,
and lovers of histories: As I found in divers of them, who knew the
passages formerly of my Countrey so exquisitly that I was astonished
at their relations, so agreeable with the trueth and times past. The
Parliament of Sicily hath a wonderfull great authority; insomuch
that the Viceroy can not have the free gift (as they call it) which
is every third yeare, nor no extraordinary thing, nor the renewing of
any matter concerning the Common-wealth, without the generall consent
of the whole Kingdome: [The great Counsell of Sicilia.] The generall
counsell whereof is composed of three branches, called by them,
the armes of the Kingdome: viz. first the Prelats, and inferiour
Clergy men, named the arme Ecclesiastick: secondly of Barons called
the arme Military: and the third, the Commissioners of Cities and
Townes, intitulated the arme Signioriall: The Crowne-rent of this
Kingdome amounteth to a million and a halfe of Duccats yearely:
which being disbursed ever for intertaining of Captaines, Garrisons
and of Gallies, and cursary ships, the Badgelloes and servants for
the fields, the maintaining of Towers, and watches about the coasts,
the reparations of Colledges, high-wayes, Lords pensions, and other
defrayings, there rests little, or nothing at all to the King.
I remember in my twice being in this Kingdome, (especially the second
time, wherein I compassed the whole Iland, and thrice traversed the
middle parts thereof from Sea to Sea) I never saw any of that selfe
Nation, to begge bread, or seeke almes; so great is the beatitude
of their plenty. And I dare avow it (experience taught mee) that the
porest creature in Sicily eateth as good bread, as the best Prince in
Christendome doth. The people are very humane, ingenious, eloquent and
pleasant, their language in many words is nearer the Latine, then the
Italian, which they promiscuously pronounce: somewhat talkative they
are, and effeminate, but generally wonderfull kind to strangers. In
the moneths of July and August, all the Marine Townes every yeare,
are strictly and strongly guarded with them of the inland Villages and
Bourges, both on foot and horse-backe: who are compelled to lie there
at their owne charges, so long as this season lasteth; in which they
feare the incursions of the Turkes; but the rest of the yeare, these
Sea-coast Townes are left to the vigilant custody of the Indwellers.
This Countrey was ever sore oppressed with Rebells and Bandits, [The
Duke of Sona Viceroy of Sicilia.] untill such time that the military
Duke of Sona, came to rule there as Viceroy, Anno 1611. where in the
first yeare he brought in five hundred; some whereof were hanged, some
pardoned, and some committed to the Gallies: So that within two yeares
of his foure yeares government, there was not a Bandit left at randon
in all Sicilia; the like before was never seene in this Region, nor
one in whom Astreas worth was more honoured, in fortitude of mind, and
execution of true Justice than this Duke, before whose face, the silly
ones did shine, and the proud stiffe-necked oppressours did tremble.
And in a word, he was no suppressour of the subjects (as many now
be) to satisfie either licentious humors, or to inrich light-headed
flatterers, but serving Justice, he made Justice serve him: for the
equitie of Justice of itselfe, can offend none, neither of any will
it be offended; unlesse the corrupt tongue and hand of the mercenary
Judge, suffer sound judgement to perish for temporary respects; which
this noble Governour could never doe, neither suffer any inferiour
Magistrate to doe the like under him: As it well appeared by his just
proceedings against the Jesuites of Palermo, and his authority upon
them imposed in spight of their ambition. The circumstances whereof
were very plausible, if time did not slaughter my goodwill; and yet
my patience could performe my paines with pleasure.
And likewise against a Seminary Gallant, a Parochial [An equitable
Justice for injustice sake.] Priest of that same City, who had killed
a Knights servant in a Brothell-house, the brother of a Shoomaker,
which fellow, the Viceroy caused to Pistoll the Priest in spight of
the Cardinall, and thereupon absolved him for the dead.
The Cardinall having onely for the Priests fact, discharged him to say
Masse for a yeare without satisfaction for the mans life: so the Duke
inhibited the Shoomaker to make shooes for a yeare, and neverthelesse
allowed him two shillings a day to mainetayne him for that time.
Many singular observations have I of his government, the which
to recite would prove prolixious, though worthy of note to the
intellective man; hee was afterward Viceroy of Naples, and now lately
deceased in Spaine. It is dangerous to travell by the Marine of the
Sea-coast Creekes in the West parts, especially in the mornings,
least he finde a Moorish Frigot lodged all night, under colour of
a Fisher-boat, to give him a slavish breakfast: for so they steale
labouring people off the fields, carrying them away captives to
Barbary; notwithstanding of the strong Watch towers, which are every
one in sight of another round about the whole Iland.
Their arrivalls are usually in the night, and if in day time, they
are soone discovered; the Towers giving notice to the Villages, the
Sea coast is quickly clad with numbers of men on foot and horse-backe:
And oftentimes they advantagiously seaze on the Moores lying in obscure
clifts and bayes. All the Christian Iles in the Mediteeranean Sea,
and the Coast of Italy and Spaine, inclining to Barbary, are thus
chargeably guarded with watch Towres.
The chiefe remarkeable thing in this Ile from all Antiquity is the
burning Hill of Ætna, called now Monte Bello, or Gibello, signifying
a faire Mountayne, so it is, being of height toward Catagna from
the Sea side, fifteene Sicilian miles, and in Circuite sixty. The
North side toward Rindatza at the Roote beeing unpassable steepe;
yet gathering on all parts so narrow to the top, as if it had beene
industriously squared, having a large prospect in the Sea; about the
lower parts whereof, grow exceeding good Wines, Cornes, and Olives.
[My second view of Ætna.] And now in my second Travailes, and
returne from Affricke, I not being satisfied with the former sight,
the kinde Bishop of Rindatza courteously sent a Guide with me on his
owne charges, to view the Mountayne more strictly. Ascending on the
East and passable part, with tedious toyle, and curious climbing, wee
approached neare to the second fire being twelve miles high; which
is the greatest of the three now burning in Ætna: whose vast mouth,
or gulfe is twice twelve-score long and wide, lying in a straight
valley betweene a perpendicular height and the mayne Mountayne; whose
terrible flames, and cracking smoake is monstrous fearefull to behold.
Having viewed and reviewed this, as neare as my Guide durst adventure
(the ground meane while whereon wee stood warming our feete, and is
dangerous for holes, without a perfect Guide) wee ascended three miles
higher to the maine top or Cima, from which the other two fires had
their beginning. Where when come, wee found it no way answerable to
the greatnesse of the middle fire; the other two drawing from it the
substance, wherewith it hath beene aunciently furnished; yet betweene
them two upper fires, I found aboundance of Snow (beeing in July)
lying on the septentrion sides of the Hill. It was heere in this
upmost Fornace, that Empedocles the Phylosopher cast himselfe in,
to bee reputed for a god.
----Deus immortalis haberi
Dum cupit Empedocles, ardentem fervidus Ætnam
Insiluit----
To be a god, this curious Wretch desires
And casts himselfe, in the fierce Ætnean fires.
As we discended on the North-east side, we came to the third and
lowest fire, which is within a short mile of the Mountaynes foote,
over against Rindatza; and if it were not for a sulphureat River,
which divideth the Towne and the Hill, it would bee in danger to be
burned. [The lowest and third fire of Ætna.] This last and least
fire, runne downe in a combustible flood, from the middle above,
Anno 1614. June 25. Where the Sulphure streames, before it congealed,
falling in a bituminous soyle, where Wine and Olives grew there seased,
and daily augmenteth more and more; having quite spoiled the Lands
of two Barons in Rindatza: But the King of Spaine, in recompence of
their miserable mishapes, did gratifie them with some of his Crowne
lands for their maintenance.
I speake it credibly, I have found the Relickes of these Sulphure
streames, which have burst forth from the upmost tops of Ætna
Westward, above twenty miles in the playne. The reason of such ardent
disgorgements, is thus; that when the abundance of Sulphure, being
put on edge with excessive Raine, and the bituminous substance still
increasing; which by the chaps, slits, and hollow chinkes of the ground
(rent partly by the Sunne, and by the forcing flames) is blowne by the
Wind, as by a payre of Bellowes; the vault or vast bosome, of which
ugly Cell not being able to contayne such a compositure of combustible
matter, it impetuously vomiteth out, in [The combustious devalling of
Ætnaes fire.] an outragious Torrent; which precipitately devalleth,
so long as the heate remayneth: and growing cold, it congealeth in
huge and blacke stones, resembling Minerall mettall, and full of small
holes, like to the composed Cinders of a Smithes Forge, wherewith
the Houses of nine Townes Circumjacent thereunto, are builded.
This is that place, which the Poets did report to bee the shop
of Vulcan, where Cyclops did frame the thunder-bolts for Jupiter:
Whereof Virgill doeth make his Tract, called Ætna. Under this hill
the Poets faine the Gyant Enceladus to be buried, whose hote breath
fireth the Mountayne, lying on his face; and to conclude of Ætna,
the grosse Papists hold it to be their Purgatory.
[Palermo.] The chiefe Cities therein are Palermo, the Seate of
the Viceroy, situate in the North-west part over agaynst Sardinia:
It is a spacious City, and well Watered with delicate Fountaynes,
having goodly buildings, and large streetes, whereof Strado reale is
principall, beeing a mile long. In which I have seene in an evening
march along for Recreation above 60. Coaches; a paire of Mulets, being
tyed to every Coach: The Gallies of Sicilia, which are ten, lye here.
The second is Messina, toward the East, over against Regio, in
Calabria, being impregnable, and graced with a famous haven: having
three invincible Castles, the chiefe whereof, is Saint Salvator by
the Sea side; there be divers other Bulwarkes of the Towne wals,
that serve for offensive and defensive Forts, which is the cause
(in derision of the Turkes) they never shut their Gates.
[The famous City of Syracusa.] The third is Syracusa, standing on the
Southeast Coast fifty miles beyond Ætna, and halfe way twixt Messina
and Malta, a renowned Citty, and sometimes the Metropolitane Seate:
It is famous for the Arathusean springs, and Archimedes that most
ingenious Mathematician: He was the first Author of the Spheere,
of which instruments he made one of that bignesse, and Arte, that
one standing within, might easily perceive, the severall motions,
of every Cælestiall Orbe: And when the Romanes besiedged Siracusa,
he made such burning glasses, that set on fire all their Shippes lying
in the Road: At last he was slayne by a common Souldier in his studdy,
at the sacke of the Towne, to the great griefe of Marcellus the Roman
Generall; when he was making plots, and drawing figures on the ground,
how to prevent the assaults of the Romanes.
[Trapundy.] The fourth is Trapundy in the West, over agaynst Biserta
in Barbary, which yeeldeth surpassing fine Salt, that is transported
to Italy, Venice, Dalmatia, and Greece; made onely in some certayne
Artificiall Salt pooles, by the vigorous beating of the scorching
Sunne, which monthly they empty and fill. The Marine here excelleth
in Ruby Corall, which setteth the halfe of the Towne at work, and
when refined, is dispersed over al Christendom.
This City is in great request amongst the Papists because of the
miraculous Lady heere, reputed the Ilands Protector, and sole Governour
of these narrow Seas, for Shippes, Gallies, and Slaves: which indeede
if an image cut out in white Marble were so powerfull, it might be
credible; but besides this Idolatrous title, they superstitiously
thereunto annexe a rable of absurd lies.
The fift is Catagna, placed at the Marine foot of Ætna, that was so
vexed by Dionisius the Tyrant. The sixt is Matzara South-west, over
against the Barbarian Promontore of Lystra, the rest be Rindatza,
Terra nova, Emma, whence Pluto is sayd to have stolne Proserpina,
Malzara, Francavilla, Bronzo, Terramigna, and Argenti once Agrigentum,
where the Tyrant Phalaris lived, who tortured Perillus in the Brazen
Bull, which he made for the destruction of others.
[The Sicilian Tyrants.] The tyrannies which were used in Sicilia were
in times past so famous, that they grew unto this Proverbe, Invidia
Siculi non invenire tyranni, tormentum majus. The elder and younger
Dionisius, were such odious tyrants, and the third Dionisius worst
of all, that when the people powred out continuall execrations on
the last, wishing his death; onely one old woman prayed for his life:
This reason she gave, since from the grandfather, his father, and he,
each succeeding worser and worser, and least (said she) he dying,
the divell should come in his place, (for a worser never lived)
I wish him to continue still.
This Kingdome after it was rent from the Romanes, remained in
subjection under the French till the yeare, 1281. in which Peter of
Arragon, contrived his purpose so close, that at the sound of a Bell,
to the evening vespers, all the French men in Sicilia were cruelly
massacred; since which time it hath ever belonged to the house of
Arragon, and now of Spaine, which exploit masketh under the name of
Vesperi Siculi. For nobility this Iland may compare with Naples, their
styles (like unto Italy) are great, but their revenewes wondrous small.
The Sicilians have a Proverb, as having experience of both, [A true
comparison betweene the French and the Spaniards.] that the French are
wiser than they seeme, and the Spaniards seeme wiser then they are:
And even as the Spaniard is extremely proud in the lowest ebbe of
Fortune: So is the French man exceeding impatient, cowardly desperate,
and quite discouraged in the pinch of sterne calamity. The Spaniard
and the French man have an absolute opposition, and conditionall
disagreement in all fashions; and in their riding both different,
and defective: For the Spaniard rideth like a Monkey mounted on a
Camell, with his knees and heeles alike aside, sitting on the sadle,
like to a halfe ballast ship, tottering on top-tempestuous waves:
And the French man, hangeth in the stirrop, at the full reach of his
great toe, with such a long-legged ostentation, pricking his horse
with neck-stropiat spurres, and beating the wind with his long waving
limbes, even as the Turkes usually do, when they are tossed at their
Byrham, hanging betweene two high trees, reciprocally waving in the
ayre, from the force of two long bending ropes.
[The Sicilian customes.] The women ride here stridling in the sadle,
and if double, the man sitteth behind the woman: The women also
after the death of their friends keepe a ceremonious mourning twice a
day, for a moneths space, with such yelping, howling, shouting, and
clapping of hands, as if all Sicilia were surprised by the Moores:
Yet neither shedding teares, nor sorrowfull in heart, for they will
both hollow and laugh at one time: The same custome for the dead,
the Turkes observe, and all the Orientall people of Asia.
This Iland finally is famous, for the worthy Schollers shee once
produced: Archimedes the great Mathematician; Empidocles, the first
inventer of Rhetoricke; Euclide the textuary Geomettrician; Diodorus
Siculus that renowned Historian, and Æshilus the first Tragedian
of fame, who being walking in the fields, and bald through age,
by chance, an Eagle taking his bald pate for a white rocke, let a
shell-fish fall on it, of that bignesse, that it beat out his braines.
But to proceed in my itinerary relation, having twice imbarked at
Messina for Italy, from Asia, and Affricke, I have choosed the last
time (double experience, deeper knowledge) for the discourse of
my departure thence: After a generall surveigh of this Iland and
Monte Bello [Mine arrivall at Messina.] arriving at Messina, Anno
1616. August 20. I encountered with a Worshipfull English Gentleman
Mr. Stydolffe Esquier of his Majesties body, accompanied with my
Countrey man Mr. Wood now servant to James Earle of Carelill, who
instantly were both come from Malta, the generous affabilitie of which
former Gentleman to mee in no small measure was extended; meeting also
afterward at Naples, as in the owne place shall be succinctly touched.
Here I found some 60. Christian Gallies, assembled to the Faire of
Messina, which holdeth every yeare the 17. of August: Wherein all sorts
of Merchandize are to be sold, especially raw Silke in abundance: 30
of which Gallies went to scoure the coasts of Greece. Messina is foure
miles distant from Rhegio in Calabria, and two miles from the opposit
Maine. This Rhegium was that Towne where Saint Paul arrived after his
ship-wracke at Malta in his voyage to Rome: It was miserably sacked
by the Turkish Gallies of Constantinople, Anno, 1609. but now by the
Spaniards it is repaired with stronger walles, and new fortifications,
sufficiently able to gaine-stand any such like accidentall invasions.
In this time of mine abode here, there happily arrived from Italy
my singular good friend Mr. Mathew Dowglas his Majesties Chirurgion
extraordinary, being bound also for the Levant in the same voyage of
the Christian incursions against the Infidels, whose presence to me
after so long a sight of Hethnike strangers was exceeding comfortable,
and did there propine him with this Sonnet (which I made on Ætna)
as the peculiar badge of my innated love.
High stands thy top, but higher lookes mine eye,
High soares thy smoake, but higher my desire,
High are thy rounds, steepe, circled, as I see,
But higher farre this breast, whilst I aspire:
High mounts the fury of thy burning fire,
But higher far mine aimes, transcend above:
High bends thy force, through midst of Vulcans ire,
But higher flies my spirit, with wings of love,
High presse thy flames, the Christall aire to move,
But higher moves the scope of my engine,
High lieth the snow, on thy proud tops I prove,
But higher up ascends, my brave designe.
Thy height cannot surpasse this cloudy frame
But my poore soule, the highest Heavens doth claime,
Meane while with paine, I climb to view thy tops,
Thy height makes fall from me ten thousand drops.
Here in Messina I found the (sometimes) great English [The death
of Sir Frances Verney.] Gallant Sr. Frances Verny lying sick in a
Hospitall, whom sixe weekes before I had met in Palermo: Who after many
misfortunes in exhausting his large patrimony, abandoning his Countrey,
and turning Turk in Tunneis; he was taken at Sea by the Sicilian
Gallies: In one of which he was two yeares a slave, whence hee was
redeemed by an English Jesuite, upon a promise of his Conversion to
the Christian faith: When set at liberty, hee turned common Souldier,
and here in the extreamest calamity of extreame miseries, contracted
Death: Whose dead Corpes I charitably interred in the best manner,
time could affoord me strength, bewailing sorrowfully the miserable
mutability of Fortune, who from so great a Birth, had given him so
meane a Buriall; and truly so may I say, Sic transit gloria mundi.
After sixteene dayes attendance for passage, their fortunately
accoasted heere twelve Napolitan Gallies come from Apulia, and bound
for Naples: In one of which, by favour of Marquesse Dell Sancta Cruce
the Generall, I imbarked, and so set forward through the narrow Seas,
which divide Italy and Sicilia: The strait whereof, is 24. miles in
length, in breadth 6. 4. and 2. miles. This Sea, is called the faro
of Messina, and fretum Siculum; at the West end whereof, wee met with
two contrary chopping tides, which somewhat rusling like unto broken
Seas, did choake the Gallies with a strugling force:
Incidunt in Scyllam, cupiens vitare Charibdim.
Who strive to shunne, the hard Calabrian coast,
On sandy Scilla, wrestling they are lost.
[A comparison of irrepugnable streames.] Yet of no such eminent perill,
or repugnable Currents, as be in the firths of Stronza and Westra:
especially Pentland firth, which divideth Katnes from Pemonia, the
mayne Land of Orknay; wherein who unskilfully looseth from eyther
sides, may quickly loose sight both of Life and Land for ever. As we
entred in the Gulfe of Saint Eufemia, we fetched up the little Ile
of Strombolo: This Isolet is a round Rocke, and a mile in Compasse,
growing to the top like to a Pomo, or Pyramide, and not much unlike
the Isolets of Basse and Elsey, through the toppe whereof, as through a
Chimney arriseth a continuall fire, and that so terrible, and furiously
casting foorth great stones and flames, that neyther Galley nor Boate,
dare Coast or boord it.
South from hence, and in sight thereof, on the North Coast of Sicily
lye the two Ilands, Vulcan Major, and Minor; whereof the lesser
perpetually burneth, and the greater is long since consumed. On
the fourth day we touched at Ischa, the greatest Ile belonging to
Naples, and 20. miles in Circuite, being strongly begirded with Rockey
heights. The chiefe Towne is Ischa, whether Ferdinando of Naples fled,
being thrust out of his Kingdome by Charles the eight.
[A boyling Fountaine in the Ile of Ischa.] There is a Fountayne here
of that incredible heate, that in short time will boyle any fish
or flesh put in it, and the taste agreeable to digestion. Departing
from thence, and coasting the mayne shoare, we had a Moorish Frigot
in Chase, where seazing on her, we found 16. Moores therein, and sixe
Christians, three men, two Women, and a Boy, whom they had taken up,
in going betweene two Townes by the Sea side. The Peasants were set
at liberty, and the Moores immediately preferred to chaynes of Iron,
bloody lashes, tugging of Gally oares, and perpetuall slavery.
Neere the Marine, and in sight of Naples, wee boorded close by the
foote of the Hill Vesuvio, which in time past did burne, but now
extinguished: It was here that the elder Pliny who had spent all his
time in discovering the secrets of Nature; pressing neere to behold
it, was stifled with the flame, so that he dyed in the same place,
which is most excellently described in the Booke of his Epistles,
by his Nephew the younger.
Arriving at Naples, I gave joyfull thankes to God for my safe returne
to Christendome, and the day following, I went to review the auncient
Monuments of Putzola or Puteoli: Which when I had dilligently remarked
in my returne halfe way to Naples, I met the aforesayd English
Gentleman and M. Woode, who needes would have me turne backe to
accompany them hither. When come, we tooke a Guide, and so proceeded
in our sights; the first [The antiquities of Putzolo.] thing of any
note wee saw, was the stupendious Bridge, which Caius Caligula builded
betweene Putzolo and Baia, over an arme of the Sea, two miles broad:
Some huge Arches, Pillars, and fragments whereof remayne unruined to
this day: The next, was the new made Mountayne of Sand, which hath
dryed up Lago Lucrino, being by an Earth-quake transported hither;
at the foote of this fabolous Hill, we saw the remnants of Ciceroes
Village.
Thence we came to the Temple of Apollo, standing on the East side of
Lacus Avernus, the Walles whereof, and pendicles (the Tecture excepted)
are as yet undemolished.
This Lake Averno is round, and hemb'd in about with comely heights,
being as our Guide reported infinitely deepe, and in circuite a short
mile. The West end whereof, is invironed with the Mountayne of Cuma,
whether Æneas arrived when hee fled from Dido Queene of Carthage,
and sister to Pigmalion King of Tyrus.
Advancing our way, along the brinke of the Lake, we [Sybilaes
Cave.] came to Sybillaes Cave, the entery being darke, because of
the obscure passage, hewen out and cut through the mayne Rocke,
our Guide strooke fire, and so with a Flambo marched before us. The
first passage was exceeding high Cime, and the further end stopped
with mouldring earth. Inclining to our right hand, we passed through
a very straite and low passage, and so arrived in Sybillaes Chamber,
which is a delicate Roome, and Artificially decored with Mosaical
Worke: Here it is sayd, the Divell frequented her Company, and where
shee wrot her Prophecies. From thence hee conducted us through a most
intricate and narrow way, (wherein we were forced to walke sidling in)
to a large and vast Rome: The Rockey vault whereof, was hanging full
of loose and long stones, many of which were fallen to the bottome.
This great Cell or Hall, is a yard deepe of blackish Water, [The
old dining roome of Sybilla.] and was the dining Roome of Sybilla:
In which hearing toward the further end, a scriking noyse, as if
it had beene the chirking of Frogs, the hissing of Serpents, the
bussing of Bees, or snarling of Wolves; we demanded our Guide from
whence such a sound proceeded? Who answered, they were Dragons and
flying Serpents, praying us to Returne, for the fellow was mightily
affrayde: Whereat I laughing, Replyed, there was no such matter;
and M. Stydolffe desirous to know it, hee onely and I, leaving the
other two behind us, adventured the tryall: Having more then halfe way
entered in this Sale, stepping on huge stones because of the Water,
and I carrying the Flambo, for lacke of ayre, being so far under
ground, the light perished. Whereupon wee hollowed to our Guide,
but the Reverberating Eccho avoyded the sense of our words, neyther
would he, nor durst he hazard to support us.
Meanewhile it being Hell-darke, and impossible to find such a difficult
way backe, and tendering (as by duty) the worthy Gentleman, I stepped
downe to my middle thigh in the water, wrestling so along to keepe him
on the dry stones. Where indeed I must confesse, I grew affrighted for
my legs, fearing to be interlaced with water Serpents, and Snakes, for
indeed the distracting noyse drew aye nearer and nearer us. At last,
falling neare the voyce of our guide, who never left shouting, wee
returned the same way wee came in, and so through the other passages,
till wee were in open fields.
Here indeed for my too much curiosity, I was condignely requited,
being all bemired and wet to the middle, yet forthwith the vigorous
Sunne disburdned me quickly thereof: From thence (to be briefe) we came
to [The ancient varieties of the antiquities of Putzolo.] the Bagni,
the relicts of Pompeis Village, to the Fort of Baia, and the Laborinth
of Ciento Camarello, into the admirable fish ponds of Lucullus, (the
coverture of which, is supported by 48. naturall pillars of stony
earth) to the detriments of Messina, Mercato sabbato, and the Elisian
fields: Thence we returned by the Sepulcher of Agricula, the mother
of cruell Nero, who slit up her belly to see the matrix wherein he
was conceived; and by the two decayed Temples of Venus, and Mercury:
Crossing over in a boat to the Towne of Putzolo, the chiefe monument
we saw, was the auncient Temple of Jupiter, who serveth now for their
Domo, or Parochiall Church: The latter Idolatry of which, is nothing
inferiour to the former.
Meanewhile here arrived the French Gallies, fetching home Chevalier
du Vandum, the Prior of France from Malta: Who scouring the coast
of the lower Barbary, their fortune was to fall upon a misfortunate
English ship belonging to Captaine Pennington, which they as a
Cursaro or man of Warre confiscated. Their Anchors fallen, I boorded
the Queenes Galley, where to my great griefe I found a Countrey-man
of speciall acquaintance, [The Mr. of a Scots ship distressed by
evill misfortune.] George Gib of Burrowtownenes (who was Pylot to the
English) fast chained to an oare, with shaven head and face: Who had
his owne shippe twice seazed on by the Turkes, and Mamora, which ship
he lastly recovered at the Ile Sardinia, and sold her at Naples being
miserably worme-eaten. To whose undeserved miseries, in my charitable
love, I made a Christian oath, that at my arrivall in England, I
should procure by the helpe of his friends, his Majesties letters to
the Duke of Guyse Admirall, for his deliverance. But soone thereafter,
being of a great spirit, his heart broke, and so died in Marseils.
Tempora labuntur, tacitisque senescimus annis,
Et fugiunt fræno, non remorante Dies.
Times slide away, gray haires come posting on,
No reyne can hold, our dayes so swiftly gon.
Departing from Putzolo, we came to the Sulphatara, where the fine
Brimstone is made, which is a pretty incircling Plaine, standing
upon a moderate hight; having three vents, through two of which, the
smoaking flame ariseth, and the other produceth no fire; but after
an excessive raine surgeth sixe foote high with blacke boyling water,
which continueth so long as the rayne lasteth.
From thence (our Guide leaving us) we came to Grotto di cane;
wherein if a Dogge be cast he will suddenly die, and taken thence,
and cast in the Lake, he will forthwith revive: This Grotto or Cave,
standeth on the side and root of a sulphure hill, the brinke of Lago
di Avagno: We desirous to make tryall of a Dog; and finding the fellow
that purposely stayeth there somewhat extortionable, I adventured in
stead of a Dog to make tryall of my selfe; Whereupon Maister Stydolffe
holding up the quartered doore, I entered to the further end thereof,
bringing back a warme stone in each hand from thence: whereat the
Italians swore, I was a Divell and not a man: for behold (say they)
there was a French Gentleman the former yeare, who in a Bravado,
would needes goe in: whereupon hee was presently stifled to death,
and here lyeth buried at the mouth of the Grotto to serve for a caveat,
to all rash and unadvised strangers to doe the like.
[The dangerous Dogs Cave neare unto Putzolo.] The relation indeed
was true, but I counting nothing of it, would needes (sore against
the Gentleman and Master Woods will) goe in againe, where entred to
the bottome being ten paces long, the moysty and choaking heat did
so suffocate and benumbe my senses, that with much adoe I returned
backe; where receiving the fresh ayre, and a little Wine, I presently
forgot my former trance: which when the Dog-keeper saw, he for an
easie composition made triall of his Dog; and having tyed a string to
his hinder leg, he cast the Dog scarce halfe way in the Cave, where
immediately his tongue hanging out, he fell downe dead: And forthwith
his Master repulling him backe, cast him in the Lake, powring in
water in his eares, but hee could never recover his life. Whereupon
the poore man cried out, alas I am undone, what shall I doe, the Dog
that wonne my dayly food is dead; in compassion whereof the worthy
Gentleman doubled his wages.
In our way and returne to Naples, we passed through Virgils Grot,
being halfe a mile long, and cut through the maine body of a Rocke,
whereby the Mountaine of Cataia by the Sea-side is made passable;
at the East end whereof neare the Cyme of the vault is Virgils Tombe:
and arrived at Naples, Mr. William Stydolffe reporting to divers of
his Countrey Gentlemen and mine, of my adventure in Grotto di Cane,
they could hardly be perswaded to beleeve it: But when avouched,
they all avowed I had done that (so did divers Neapolitans) which
never man had done before me reserving life.
Bidding farewell to my generous friends, I marched through Terra di
lavoro, and in the way of Saint Germane, and Mount Cassino to Rome;
within ten miles of Capua, [Great poverty under great titles.] I found
the poorest Bishop (Nomen sine re) the world affoordeth: having no more
(nor never had he, nor any before him) than dui Carolini or Juletti
twelve pence a day to spend. So is there many a Marquesse, Earle,
Baron, and Knight in Italy, who is unable at one time, to keepe a
foote-man at his heeles, a Dog at his foote, a Horse betweene his
legs, a good sute of clothes on his backe, and his belly well fed;
so glorious be their stiles, and so miserable their revenewes.
Touching at Rome, I secretly borrowed one nights lodging there, and at
the breach of day another houres sight and conference, with my Cousing
Simeon Grahame; who ere the Sunne arose, crossing Ponto flamingo,
brought me on in my journey, till a high way Taverne like a Jayle
held us both fast, where leaving our reciprocall loves behind us,
wee divided our bodies East and West.
And now ere I leave Rome, I thinke it best, to let our Papists here
at home, see the shamefull lives & cruell deaths, of most of their
Popes beyond Seas: which their owne best Authors in France, Italy,
and Spaine, have justly & condignely avouched & recorded; & authorized
also to light by their prime powers civil and spirituall. The papists
generally hold, that in their Popes, is all power; Super omnes
Potestates, tam Cæli quam Terræ; above all powers both in Heaven
and Earth: They tearme him Alter Deus in terris; a second God upon
the Earth: Deus mortalis in terris, et immortalis homo in Cælis;
a mortall god upon the Earth, and an Immortall man in the Heavens:
Some of them have allotted, that he is, Non deus, non homo, sed
utrunque; neyther God nor man but both: The Popes former title was
Servus servorum Dei; and they call him Rex Regum, Dominus Dominantium,
King of Kings, and Lord of Lords.
[The false and arrogant titles of the Pope.] Paul the third,
entering Tolentino in the vale of Ombria joyning with Tuscany,
had this salutation: Paulo tertio, Maximo, in terris Deo; to Paule
the third, the best, and greatest God on earth. Then since they will
have them gods, above the God of Gods; tell me I pray you, what a May
pole Dauncer, was John 12. alias 13. of 18. yeares old, who made the
Lateran their great Church in Rome, a playne Stewes or Brothel house.
What a Pope-boy of twelve yeares old, was Benedict the ninth? and after
wrought by inchantments. Another Pope they had, whom they called Unum
pecus, in co quod de mane faciebat gratiam, et de sero revocabat: A
very Asse, for in the morning hee would grant many great kindnesses,
and at night revoake them all agayne. What a thiefe was Pope Boniface
the seventh? who robbed St. Peters Church? What a sodomiticall Pope
was Sixtus the fourth; who builded Stewes of both kindes, granting
his Cardinals the use of Sodomy, for three hote moneths. What an
Atheisticall Pope, was Leo the tenth? who called the Gospell a
Fable. What a Hereticall Pope was Honorius the first? who by sixe
general Counsels, was condemned for a Monothelit: What a perjured Pope
was Gregory the twelfth? and openly forsworne: What a Negromancer
was Silvester the second? who gave himselfe both soule and body to
the divell, to attaine the Popedome: What was Pope John the eleventh,
but a bastardly brat to Pope Sergius? What a sorcerer, Charmer, and
Conjurer, was Hildebrand, called Gregory the seventh? given to all
beastlinesse, and diabolicall practices; this was he that threw the
Sacrament in the fire: What was [A tract of beastly Popes and cruell
Villaines.] Innocent the third? who was branded with this black marke,
non est innocentius, imo nocens vere, he is not innocent; but very
nocent: What a wicked and cruell murtherer was John the twelfth a
Romane borne, who caused to cut off the nose of one Cardinall, and
the thumbe of another Cardinall; onely because they had wrot the
whole tract of his abhominable vices to the Emperour Otho.
What an inhumane and homicidious Pope was Stephanus the seventh? who
after he had cancelled the decrees of his predecessour Formosus,
caused to deterre his dead body, cut off his fingers, and lay him
in the fields to be devoured with the fowles of the aire: What a
beastly Pope was Sergius the third? that after he had imprisoned
Christopholus his predecessor, he caused to draw out the corps of
Pope Formosus his old compeditor from the grave, and cut off his head,
as though hee had beene alive.
What a cruelty was shown upon John the 17. who after he was depraved
his Papacy, had his eyes pulled out, his nose cut off and his members,
and was hanged: What a poysonable Pope was Damasus? who poysoned his
predecessour Clemens the second, to attaine the Papality, and yet dyed
within a moneth there after being Pope: What a mercilesse Pope was
Boniface the seventh, that after he had Rob'd Saint Peters Church and
fled to Constantinople, hearing that Pope John the 14. was replaced,
he returned, and pulling out his eyes, did cast him in prison, where
he dyed of extreame hunger. What a persecution had Gelase borne in
Gaetta neare Naples, who first by the Romanes was imprisoned, then
stoned through the Citty, miserably dyed. Gregory the 8. succeeding
him, was Deposed by Caliste brother to the Duke of Burgondy, who
imprisoned the other, and starving him to Death, made him selfe Pope.
What devotion fell out from the braines of Rome, to stone Pope Lucius
the second to Death: What a shamefull division was in your Papality;
for fifty yeares, when Urbanus lived Pope at Rome and his Successours;
and Clemens 7. and his Successors at Avigneon. Nay, you have had
three Popes at one time; even when Sigismond King of Hungary and
Boheme was elected Emperour, to wit. [Three severall Popes living at
one time.] Benedict 3. at Avigneon; John 23. at Bullogna; and Gregory
the twelfth at Rimini: I pray you, could every one of them open and
shut the Gates of Heaven and Hell. What an Infidell, was Pope John
22. who denied the immortality of the Soule.
What was Clement the 5. but an open Whore munger and a drunken
sot. What was Boniface the 8. he was called a Theefe, a Robber,
and rooted in all unspeakable sinnes, the eight Nero of Rome. What
a furious and wicked Pope, was Julius the second? who given more to
Warre then to Christ, cast Saint Peters keyes (as they call them) into
Tiber. What a prophaine skoffer of Christ, was Paule the third? who
lying in bed with his owne Cousin Laura Farnesia, was sore wounded by
her Husband; he lay with his owne Daughter, and poysoned her Husband;
and then lay with his owne sister, and after poysoned both her and his
owne mother. What was Julius the third? an open Sodomite, and horrible
blasphemer. What was Pope Eugenius? a damnable scandalizer of the
Church, and condemned by the Counsel of Basil, for an incorrigible
and wilfull Hereticke. Pope John 23. was deposed by the Counsell of
Constance, for Heresie, Symony, Murther, Enchantment, Adultery, and
[The Papists may looke here upon divellish Popes.] worst of all for
Sodomy. What was Pope John 13. a vilde monster in his life, committing
incest with both his sisters, and fathers Concubine Stephana: Hee
was a gamster, and playing at Dice, did call for helpe to the Divel,
and would drinke to the Divels health; hee was repleate with all
abhominable vices; at last being taken in the acte of Adultery,
was wounded to Death.
Boniface the 8. afore named, came to bee Pope, by cousning his
predecessour Celestine, in speaking through the Wall in a Reed (as
if it had beene a voyce from Heaven) admonished him to surrender his
Papacy; whose Epithit was thus: Intravit ut Vulpes, Regnavit ut Lupus,
Mortuus est ut Canis: He came in like a Fox, he ruled like a Wolfe,
he dyed like a Dogge.
At the sixt Counsell of Carthage, was not the treachery and falshood
of Pope Zosimus, condignely sifted out, in corrupting for ambitious
government the Counsell of Nyce. Bernard about 500. yeares agoe,
complayned much of the Tyranny of popes in his time, calling them
Defrauders, Raveners, Traytors, darknesse of the world, Pilats,
Wolves, and Divels.
Albertus Magnus affirmeth, that they who now governe their Church,
are for the most part Theeves and Murtherers. And Platina, calleth
some of their popes vile Monsters, uncleane beasts, and strange
creatures. And I remember it was noted by a Historian: Episcopos
Romanos ne peccata quidem sine laude committere: The Popes could do
nothing, were it never so mischievous, but it was commendable.
And even likewise are their prime Pardons, for Noxas preteritas,
aut futuras: and their future potestatem, tam quo ad commissa, quam
quo ad committenda crimina absolvenda; That his Holinesse hath all
manner of power, as well to absolve them from crimes to commit, as
from crimes committed. And I remember about twenty yeares [A false
cannonized Saint.] ago Paulo Papa quinto, Cannonized Carolo Borrameo,
the late Bishop of Milane for a notable Saint, being knowne to bee
a notorious and scelerate liver: done sooner by fifteene yeares then
their ordinary time, and that for the touch of forty thousand Duckats;
allotting Prayers, Miracles, Pardons, and Pilgrimages to him, and
erecting a new Order of Friers, and Monasteries unto him. And yet
the poore Bishop of Lodi, a good and charitable liver by all reports,
could never, nor cannot attayne to the dignity of a Saint, his meanes
was so small when dead, and his friends so poore being alive.
And how wonderfull absurd is the Popes Bulla di Santa Cruzada, pro
defunctis in Purgatory; that for one Pater noster, at a Masse saying,
or a Masse sayd for them: Sicavano fuora dalla Purgatorio, tre anime
qualche ci vogliano, viz. You shall relieve any three soules out
of Purgatory whom you please. Nay, I have seene the Popes Edict so
gracious, that induring one Masse, as many Paters as you can recite,
as many soules you free from thence.
And thus me thinketh in one halfe yeare, he might soone empty that
purging pit: Yet unlesse the Suppliant touch with his finger,
during his Prayers, a gaudy beede inraveled betweene five small
fast made irons, placed before the Altar; their Bulla, their payment
for it; their Paters, their Devotion for their friends soules, are
all lost. Then say, if peradventure, the friends of the defunct be
oblivious in this officiousnesse, and neglect both the Ceremony, and
Pater noster, might not the Pope justly be reputed a cruell Monster,
that for want of pattering an abridged Pater, his Cerberian Office
in Hell, should detayne any poore soule in such torments, as they
say are in Purgatory.
Infinite passages of the like kind could I Recite, if I had longer
time and larger leisure; and especially of their miraculous leyes, or
leying Miracles; in erecting of falshood, and maintayning of perjury;
but till a fitter occasion, I will revert to my Itinerary Discourse,
and so proceede. Having left my afore-sayde friend Maister Grahame,
at a Taverne at Bilbo neere to Rome, I set forward through the
vaile of Ombria and the Countrey Romania, [Ravenna the chiefe City
of Romania.] whereof Ravenna is Lady, and the Pope Lord, I arrived
(the way of Ferrara and Padua) at Venice. Who then was levying
an Army against the Croatian Scokes of Gradisca, and the Duke of
Grasso now Emperour. Of which Army Count Mansfield was Generall, and
with whom I crossed the Gulfe to Pola in Istria, and from thence to
the siege of Gradisca: The discourse whereof, I have here formerly
avouched in the second Part of my first Travailes. Now to speake of
a Souldier, certainely hee is more then prayse-worthy and fortunate,
that hath faced the Low-Countries, reviewed Briscia in Lombardy,
and footed and sighted the Arsenal of Venice, then his eyes have
first seene, the sonnes, the force, the policies and Kingdome of
Mars: Secondly, the fiery shoppe of Vulcan, where rarest Armes and
Weapons are hammer'd out upon the Anvill, for the honour of Mars;
and lastly the incomparable Armory or store-house for Sea and Land,
the Meggazin and treasury of Mars.
Now leaving both the Armies barking at other like to Hircanian wolves,
I traced the fertile soyles of Carindia, Carneola, [Vienne in Austria
no way answerable to common fame.] and Stria even to Vienna: all which
were subject to the Emperour, save a part of Carneola, that groanes
under the Turke. Being arrived at Vienne, I found the Towne, and the
flying fame of it far different, either for greatnesse, strength,
or wealth: for the Towne rising upon a moderat height circular,
is but of small compasse without, not passing two English miles.
The suburbs round about, being twice as great as the Towne; and the
strength of it is no way comparable to a hundred Cities that I have
seene, neither is it for wealth so much to be admired, being depraved
of Seas, shipping, and navigation, having onely the needfull prosperity
of dry land Townes.
Here I found a Turkish Ambassadour, going downe the Champion
Danubio of Europe, for Constantinople; and with him one Gratianus,
a Greeke his Interpreter, to whose familiar love I was much obliged;
and with whom I imbarked downe the River to Presburge a place where
the Hungarian Crowne is kept, and from thence discending the River
to Comorre, the downemost Towne the Emperour retayneth on Danubio,
I left my noble Interpreter, and traversed the Champaine Countrey.
The chiefe Townes whereof I wil briefly touch, and so proceed: Buda
is the capitall Citie of Hungary, wherein the Turkish Bassaw hath
his residence, and was taken in by Solyman the Emperour, the twenty
of August 1526. the other is the aforesaid Presburge, aunciently
Bosonia; the rest are Belgrad or Albegrek, aunciently Taurinum, in
Dutch Griechs: Weissenberge, that was taken by Soliman, 1520. Valpa,
and Singidum, upon the Danubio, both under the Turke, and that of
the seven Churches upon the River Drana taken in, in the yeare one
thousand five hundred and forty three, and Zigeth taken also in the
yeare one thousand five hundred sixty sixe.
[The special Townes of Hungary.] Moreover upon the Danubio, the Towne
Strigonium commonly Grana, and Alberoyall otherwise Stulvesenburg,
a place destined for the Sepultures and Coronations of the Kings of
Hungary, and was taken by the Turkes, Anno 1543.
Neare the same place is Stridon, where they say St. Jerome was borne:
And now above all other the strong Towne of Gamorra, standing in an
Ile of the Danuby of that same name, which the Turkes have so oft
besieged, yet never could surprise it.
There is also Tockay, and Januarin or Rab seated too upon Danuby,
a Towne as it were impregnable, yet it was overtaken by the Turkes,
and lastly recovered by the Christians.
[The forces of the Bassa of Buda.] The Beglerbeg of Buda, hath under
his command, eight thousand Timariots, and twelve thousand common
Souldiers which lye in Garrison, in continuall pay on the confines
of Hungary, Croatia, and Dacia, and these confines belonging to the
house of Austria: The Bassa hath under his authority 13. Sanzacks,
lying at these thirteene Townes here undernamed, to wit, Novaguard,
Semendria, Simontorno, Zetshen, Ecclesiæ, Sirnium, Capan, Zornock,
Alba Regalis, Sigedin, Mucchatz, Zegedin, and Sexard.
The other Beglerbegship of Hungary is at Temesara, who retaineth under
his command eight Sanzacks and as many jurisdictions, spreading his
authoritie over sixe thousand Timariots, and eight thousand foote
souldiers; and these Sanzacks lying at Temesara, Lippa, Itishinad,
Mudania, &c. The great Turke hath eight Beglerbegs or Bassawes under
him in Europe; that of Bosna being one of them, who commandeth ten
Sanzacks and eight thousand Timariots; the residence of which Bassa is
at Bagivialezza, a commodious place lying in the midst of circulating
Provinces; over which he spreads the Ballucco of his power.
[Hungary is a most fertile and fruitfull soyle.] The soyle of Hungary
aboundeth infinitly in all things the earth can produce for the well
of man; and produceth admirable good Wines, the best whereof grow neare
and about the Towne of Sirmia, and so sweet, that they may compare with
the Wines of Candy, yea, and aboundeth in all kind of bestiall, that it
is thought this Kingdome may furnish all Europe with Beefe and Mutton.
The Hungarians are descended of the Hunnes, a people of Scythia or
Tartary. The auncient Inhabitants divided their habitations in nine
circles, which the Germanes named Hagyes, and impaled them with high
walles, made [The first plantation of Hungary.] of earth and wood,
being twenty foote high, and as much in breadth, being rampierd with
divers Bulwarks and Towers of earth, whereon grew all sorts of hearbes,
and fructiferous trees.
The space from side to side of each one of these circles, amounted
to twenty Dutch miles; the Townes, Villages and houses being within,
and so contrived, that each one was within cry of another: this was
the first admirable plantation of the Hunnes in this Kingdome.
The Hungarians have ever beene thiftuous, treacherous and false,
so that there one brother will hardly trust another, which infidelity
among themselves and distracted deceitfull governours, was the chiefest
cause of their overthrow and subjection under Infidels: And so have
corrupt Counsellors, and insolent Princes beene the ruine of their
owne Kingdomes; for if we would have a Prince fit to governe others,
and to direct him selfe with the square rules of wisdome and judgement,
to know how to become all places, and to use all fortunes; let him
bind his tender youth with a disposition temperd with sadnesse: for
such a man can neither seduce his minority with ill examples, nor
marre his waxen age with a false impression, too common a condition
of these dissolute times.
[The infinite riches of Hungary.] Now as for the Hungar soyle, and
Kingdome it selfe, and for the goodnes of it, it may be tearmed the
girnell of Ceres, the Garden of Bachus, the Pastorage of Pan, and the
richest beauty of Silvan: for I found the Wheat here growing higher
then my head, the Vines over looking the trees, the Grasse jusling
with my knees, and the high-sprung Woods, threatning the clouds:
surely if I should enter on particulars here, I have more subject to
worke upon, than any Kingdome that ever I saw: The Kingdome is divided
in two parts, the higher and the lower, the lowest, largest, and best
is under the Turke, and the other narrow proportion under the Emperour.
The Hungarian miles are the longest upon earth, for every one of
theirs, is sixe of our Scots miles, nine English: so that the most
that ever I could travell there in one day, was but sixe miles: Their
language hath no affinity with any other kind of speech, and yet the
greatest part of the Countrey both under the Turke and Emperour are
Protestants, and are the best of all the rest, the other being Arians
and Papists.
There is a great Gentry in this Kingdome, but untravelled abroad,
farre lesse mannerly at home, being luxurious and ill taught, and
damnably given to that Masculine misery, the whole Southerne World is
defiled with. Having now traversed all the Countrey to Grana, and so
to Gatterad in Valechia, I found the Country so covered with Woods, and
them full of Murtherers (for I was robbed on these confines, and hardly
saved my life) I was constrayned I say, to returne to Tockai in the
higher Hungary, and from thence in one day I stepped into Transilvania.
[A description of Transilvania.] This Countrey is so environed with
high and unpassable mountaines about, that there is but only five
entries to come into it, which make it so strong and impregnable:
Within there is a rich bottome or plaine of thirty miles long, and
sixe broad, being beautified with six faire Townes; the chiefest
whereof, are Cromestate, Juliastrad, and Hermestat. The sides of the
mountaynes within rise all upward halfe levell way even to the tops,
which maketh a pleasant and prospective Countrey, and the best mixt
soyle of Europe: For on the incircled plaine, there groweth nothing
but Wheat, Rye, Barley, Pease, and Beanes: And on the halfe, or lower
parts of the Hills about, nothing but Wines, and infinite Villages;
and toward the extreame circulary heights, only Pastorage for Kine,
Sheepe, Goates, and Horses, and thickets of woods: So fram'd that every
one supplieth another, for they of the Valley furnish the other two
parts with Victuall, and they againe them with Wines, Bestiall, Butter,
and Cheese; each interchanging all necessary things with one another
as they need. Here I found every where kind and familiar people;
yea, and the very Vulgars speaking frequent Latine, and so commonly
doe all the Hungarians. The Inhabitants here are all Protestants,
but for their Vayvod or Prince Bethlem Gabor, I saw him not, for hee
was lying sicke of a Feaver at Juliastrad: This Province is a free
Principality, and notwithstanding adherent in some respect to the
authority of the Turke. But now having left this Religious Country,
and crossing the North passage of the Hils, called the Borean Berger,
or North mountaine, I entred in Moldovia; where for my welcome in the
midst of a border-Wood, I was beset with six murderers, Hungarians and
Moldavians: where having with many prayers saved my life, they robbed
mee of threescore Hungar Duccats of gold, and all my Turkish clothes,
leaving me stark naked; save onely they returned to me my Patents,
Papers, and Seales.
This done, and for their better security, they caryed mee a little
out of the way, and bound my naked body fast about the middle to an
Oaken tree, with wooden ropes, and my armes backward so likewise:
swearing to me, that if I cryed for helpe, or marred them of their
designes before the Sun set, they would turne backe and kill me;
promising then to set me free.
[A joyfull deliverance from a desperate thraldome.] But night come,
and I forgotten, was left here in a trembling feare, for Wolves and
wild Boares till the morrow; where at last by Gods providence I was
relieved in the morning by a company of Heards: who clothing me with
an old long coat of theirs, and refreshing me with meat; one of them
caryed me five leagues unto the Lord of the ground, the Baron of
Starhulds a Moldavian Protestant, with whom I stayed fifteene dayes:
And was more than repaired of all my losses, by his owne bounty, and
Noble Kinsmen, his neighbouring friends, and would not suffer mee to
goe any further in the Countrey, because of the Turkes jealousie over
strangers, in regard it was but lately wrested from a Christian Prince,
with whom I was conversant at Constantinople in Sir Thomas Glover,
the Ambassadours house.
Well, I yeeld to the Noble mans counsell, and giving him all dutifull
thankes for his kind regards, he sent a guide with mee for two dayes
journey through a part of Podolia, the upmost Countrey of Polland,
bordering with Tartary.
The halfe of which Countrey I found left disinhabited and desolat
by incursions of Tartarians. Here I determined to have entered
in Tartary, but finding no conduct nor assurance of my safety, I
continued my course to Crocavia, situat on the upper Frontiers of
Polland bordering with Hungary.
Tartary is thought to be sixe hundred leagues in length, confining
Eastward with China, to the South with the Caspian Sea, to the North
with Russia, and to the West with Podolia, and Moldavia.
[The Tartars are mighty oppressours of Podolia in Poland.] The Tartars
are not expert in Warre, neither are they so valerous as the Turkes,
nor so manly as the Polonians, who counter-blow them at rancounters;
neverthelesse by stealth of inroades, they mightily suppresse the
extreamest parts of Polland. The Turkes tearme the Cham or Emperour
of Tartary, Vlakim, that is a great Prince, and the Moscovites call
him Catzar Cataiski, to wit, the Cæsar of Cataia: And hee is so obeyed
and reverenced among the Tartars, that they intitulate him the sonne
of God, the man of God, and the soule of God: yea, and the greatest
Oath that they thinke can be sworne, which they usually doe in matters
of fidelitie and importance, is by his Throne Royall.
This custome of idolatrous obeysance, came first by one Rangavistah,
who being chosen to be their Emperour, would try their promptnesse and
goodwill of obedience towards him, commanding seven of his chiefest
Princes, and head Governours under him of the people, to kill their
Infants, with their owne hands.
And notwithstanding the Commandement seemed very rude and intollerable,
yet they fearing the common people, who esteeme their Emperours to
be the divine Kinsmen (as it were) of God; they did cut the throats
every one of them, of their owne Children, before his owne eyes,
and the sight of the people.
Insomuch that ever since, the life and death of the Tartars, depend
upon the good-will and word of the King, which no way they dare
contradict, such is the ignorant [A love not worthy thinks.] reverence
they carry toward him. As for the idolatrous Rites they use at his
Death, in inclosing or interring quicke in a Vault neere to his
Tombe, one of every Office that he loved best, being alive, to goe
serve him in Paradice; I will not meddle with it, neither with the
Vulgars Superstition, who Religiously feast upon the Corpes of their
aged Parents, and then doe burne their bones into ashes, giving them
such a buriall, as we give our Witches; for indeede the Wormes come
short among the dead Tartars of their foode.
Being arrived in Crocko or Crocavia, the capitall City of Polland
(though but of small importance) I met with diverse Scotish Merchants,
who were wonderfull glade of mine arrival there, especially the two
brothers Dicksones, men of singular note for honesty and Wealth. It
was my lucke heere, to bee acquainted with Count du Torne, the first
Noble-man of Boheme, who had newly broake out [The Counte of Torne
fled from Prage to Poland.] of Prison in Prage, and fled hither from
Bohemia for safety. Mathias then being Emperour, against whom hee
had highly offended in boasting him in his Bed-Chamber with hard and
intollerable speeches: Saying to Mathias in his face, and before his
Wife the Empresse: Loe there is the right hand that helped to put the
Imperial Crowne on thy head, and behold now there is my foote shall
strike it off againe.
This Fugitive Earle stayed me with him ten dayes to discourse, and
beare him Company, for then hee had but onely one follower that came
post with him: I found him Princely disposed in all things, and very
familiar in his cariage: [This Sigismond King of Polland did marry two
sisters of Ferdinando now Emperour.] At last his trayne and treasure
comming with many other Bohemian Barons and Gentlemen his friends,
I humbly left him, and touching at Lubilina where the Judges of
Polland sit for halfe the yeare, I arrived at Warsow, the resident
place for the King Sigismond who had newly married the other Sister of
his former Wife being both Sisters to this Ferdinando now Emperour:
A match I dare say more fit for the savage Sabuncks of Lybia, than
for a Christian Prince or shepheard.
But it is no matter Pope Paulus Quintus gave him licence, and in that
liberty, a wide passage to Purgatory: who, when dead that incestuous
guilt will bee royally purged; loe there his pontificall absolution.
Betweene Crocavia, and Warsow Lubilina; lying halfe way it is a hundred
Pollonian miles or French leagues: Here I found abundance of gallant
rich Merchants my Countrey-men, who were all very kind to me, and
so were they by the way in every place where I came, the conclusion
being ever sealed with deepe draughts, and God be with you.
Polland is a large and mighty Kingdome, puissant in Horse-men, and
populous of strangers; being charged with a proud Nobility, a familiar
and manly Gentry, and a ruvidous vulgarity: They are all for the most
part, of square and thicke bodies, having Bull-necks, great thighes
and legs, grim and broad faces, and commonly their shaven heads are
finely covered with overthwarting strokes of crooked shables: for they,
and the Armenians of Asia are of stature and thicknesse the biggest,
and grossest people the world affoordeth.
The soyle is wonderfull fruitfull of Cornes, so that this Countrey
is become the Girnell of Westerne Europe for all sorts of graine,
besides Honey, Waxe, Flaxe, Iron, and other commodities: And for
auspicuousnesse, I may rather [Polland is the Nurse of Scotlands
common younglings.] tearme it to be a Mother and Nurse, for the
youth and younglings of Scotland, who are yearely sent hither in
great numbers, than a proper Dame for her owne birth; in cloathing,
feeding, and inriching them with the fatnesse of her best things;
besides thirty thousand Scots families, that live incorporate in
her bowells. And certainely Polland may be tearmed in this kind,
to be the mother of our Commons, and the first commencement of all
our best Merchants wealth, or at the least most part of them.
And now ceasing to peramble through any moe particulars of this
familiar Nation to us, I was kindly transported from Warsow upon
a Waggon to Dansick, being fifty leagues distant, with a Generous
young Merchant William Bailey my cliddisdale Countrey man, to whose
courtesies I still rest thankfull.
Here in Dansick I fell deadly sicke for three weekes space, insomuch
that my Grave and Tombe was prepared by my Countrey-men there.
Neverthelesse in end (it pleased almighty God) I recovered my health,
and then imbarked for Alseynure in Denmarke, where being better
convalessed, I recoursed backe in a Flemish Pink to Stockhollem:
where after five or sixe dayes being there, and finding my sicknesse
like to returne againe, and fearing the worst, I made hast for England.
At last finding the commodity of an English shippe belonging to
Ratcliffe, wee hoysed sayle, and set forward through the sound, or
Belticke Sea for Alseynure agayne: Whence after three dayes abode,
bidding farwell to that tributary Towne and Castle, wee Coasted the
scurrile and Rockey face of Norway, at two severall parts, but not
without great stormes, and contrary Windes, yea and once finally
indangered with a threatening shipwracke, which with good lucke we
happily escaped.
These tempestuous dangers past, upon the seaventh day the winds
refavouring us, wee safely arrived at London, from whence I first
began this Voyage, and there ended my second Peregination.
Magnum virtutis principium est, ut dixit paulatim exercitatus animus
visibilia & transitoria primum Commutare, ut post-modum possit
derelinquere. Delicatus ille est adhuc, cui patria dulcis est, fortis
autem jam cui omne solum patria est: perfectus vero, cui mundus
exilium est.