Now well met Egypt, so our fate allots,
For we have appetite, for thy Flesh pots;
But (ah!) the Season, is too hot to eate
Of any viande, Kid, Mutton, or such meate:
Yet for thy Coffa made of Coave seede,
We'le kindly drinke it, feed upon thy bred
And fat our selves, with thy best hearbes and fruits
For like, to our faint stomackes, best besuites:
Then mighty Kingdome, once the Royall Land,
Where Kings were first erect'd, did longest stand;
And letters, Hyeroglophicks, Magicke Arte,
Astrology, had first inventions part.
For wonders, the Piramedes: Balme more good!
The weeping Crocadile, Nyles swelling flood;
Deaths funerall Mommeis; the Sea-horse bred
At Damieta: the Sphynx with grandure cled:
And where base Fortune, play'd the errand whoore,
In making meane men great, and great men poore:
In thee, I'le dive, though deep is thine old ground,
And further far, then I can search or sound:
Yet when men shoot, O all the marke doe eye;
But seldome touch't; enough, if they come nye:
Even so must I, for neerer I'le not claime,
The best director, may mistake his ayme.
But as the Land is now, I hope I shall
Cleare hardest doubts, and give content to all.
Thence sought I Malta, Ætnaes burning flame,
And stately Sicile, Gibels greatest fame.
Whence passing Italy, the Alpes I crost,
And courting France, told Time, how I was tost.
Departing from Saleack, and having past one of their courses, which
is our twelve miles, wee reincountred with infinite Villages on both
hands, and in our high Way; all builded upon artificiall Channels
drawne from Nylus; and these Fabrickes, onely made up of Wood or
Bricke, being one or two Stories high. The Captaine, in diverse
parts at our mid-dayes reposing, was constrayned to buy water from
the Egyptians, to satisfie the Company: yea, and that same night,
the first of foure, or we came to Cayre, at the Village of Bianstare,
he payed five Sultans of gold for Watering all us and the Beasts,
amounting to thirty five shillings sterling.
The next day journying towards a goodly Towne, named Saliabsteck, we
travailed through a fruitful planure, fraught full of fruite Trees,
and abounding in Wheate, [Two seasons of riping graine in Egypt.] Rye,
and Barley, being new cut downe, May 14. For this was their first
Harvest, the Land yeelding twice a yeare Cornes; and the latter,
is in our December recoiled. This Land hath as it were a continuall
Summer, and notwithstanding of the burning heate, it produceth alwayes
abundance of Fruites and Hearbes for all the Seasons of the yeare:
So that the whole Kingdome is but a Garden, having ever one Fruite
ready to be plucked downe, and another comming forwards; or like to
the best sort of Lemmon Trees, that as some Reape, some are growing
greene, others budding forth, and some still in the floorish: Even so
is the beauty and fertility of all the lower Ægypt; which although the
Country be not often troubled with Raine, yet the rank serene or dew
of the night, in the Summer, refresheth all kindes of growing things:
betweene Saliabsteck, and Cayre, being two dayes journey: We Francks,
bad farwell to water, and drunke daily of Coffa, made of a seed Coave,
which being taken hot, and is ever kept boyling within Fornaces in
earthen pots, it expelleth the crudity of fruites and hearbes so much
there frequented.
Arriving at last in this little World, the great Cairo, and bidding
farewell to our Caravan, the three Germanes and I, lodged with one
Signior Marco Antonio, a Consul, there for Venice; the other foure
French men, going to their owne Consul, a Marseilian borne and there
stayed. Here with this Venetian for three dayes, the Dutch men and
I had great cheare, but they far greater a dayly swallowing downe of
strong Cyprus Wine, without mixture of water; which still I intreated
them to forbeare, but they would not be requested. The season being
cruell hot, and their stomacks surfeited with burning wine, upon
the fourth day long or noone, [The last three Germanes death in
Cayre.] the three Dutch men were all dead; and yet me thought they
had no sicknesse, the red of their faces staying pleasant, their eyes
staring alwayes on mine, and their tongues were perfit even to the
last of their breath.
He who dyed last, and lived longest, was William Dierganck, who left me
all his owne gold, and what the former five had left him: delivering
me the keyes of their three Clogbags before the Consul, declared
by his mouth that he left me absolute heire to intromet with all,
and whatsoever they had there: But eftsoones the treacherous Consul,
knowing that I was a stranger to them, and by accident met together at
Jerusalem, and that they were Gentlemen, and well provided with gold,
forgd a reason to himselfe and for his owne benefit, that he would
meddle with all they left behind them, under this excuse, that he would
be answerable to their friends for it, at his returne to Venice: Well,
I am left to bury them, and with great difficulty bought one grave for
them all three in a Copties Chappell, where I interred them: paying to
the Ægyptian Christians for that eight foote of ground, ten Sultans of
gold, besides sixe Piasters for carrying their corps hither, being two
miles in the City distant from the Consuls house. Whence, ere I had
returned, the Venetian Factor seased upon all, and shuting his gate
upon my face, sent me out my owne budget: Whereupon I addressed my
selfe to the French Consul, Monsieur Beauclair, who kindly received
me, and having told him all the manner, how I was greatly wronged &
oppressed by the other Consul; he straight sent for a Jewish Phisitian,
his familiar Oracle: Where having consulted together, the next day
earely we went all three, and their followers to the Beglerbeg, or
governour of the City: we soone complained, and were as soone heard:
the Venetian Consul is sent for, and he commeth: where facing the
Judge and [A favourable Turkish judgement.] pleading both our best,
(for there are no Lawyers in Turky every man speaking for him selfe)
the Bassaw with his Counsell upon sight of the keyes of their Clogbags
in my hands, and my narration thereupon (and notwithstanding favouring
the Factor) immediatly determined that I should have the two part
of their moneyes, with all their Jerusalem relicts, and Turkish
cloathes, and the Venetian to have the former third part. It is
done, and irrevocable, upon which the Jewish Doctor, and I, with
two Janizaries came to mine adversaries house; where I giving the
Jew the keyes, the Clogbags were opened, and the money being told,
it came just to 1424. Chickens of gold, besides certaine rings &
tablets: The Jew delivered me my part, which came to 942. Chickens,
the rest went to the inconscionable Consul, with the halfe of the
rings & tablets: And packing up all the relicts, moneyes, clothes,
and Clogbags, I hired a Mule, and brought them along with me to the
French Factors house. Where, when come, Monsieur Beauclair, and my
fellow Pilgrimes, were very glad that I had sped so well, none of us
all knowing what was in the Clogbags till they were sighted; & giving
hearty thanks to the Consul, and ten peeces of gold to the Jew and
Janizaries, I sup'd, and reposed till the morrow, thanking God of my
good fortune: Yet was I exceeding sorrowfull for the losse of these
gallant Gentle-men, Religiously disposed, and so affable, that for
familiarity and kindnesse, they were the mirrours of noble mindes,
and vertuous spectacles of humanity; whose Deaths were to mee a Hell,
and whose lives had beene my Paradice on earth. To whose memory and
prayse, I am not able to Congratulate the least Commendation, their
Heroicke dispositions, deserved at my hands.
But what shall I say, their time was come, which mortality might
sorrow, but sorrow might not prevent Death, whose power is deafe to
all humane lamentations. Neyther will I relye so much upon my owne
worthinesse, as to thinke that benefite of the procrastination of my
[Gods provident mercies.] Life, was by any merite of mine deserved,
but that God so much the more, might show his incomprehensible
goodnesse in delivering me, from the violence of such unexpected
accidents, and to tye my soule to be thankfull for his mercies. For
all the beginnings of man are derived from God, whose ends are eyther
perfited, or disanulled by his Determination: and nothing we possesse
is properly our owne, or gotten by our owne power, but given us onely
through his goodnesse and munificence.
And all the spaces of earth which our feet tread over, the Light we
enjoy, and the excellent faculties wee are indued withall; or what
we can do, say, or thinke, is onely raised, guided, and distributed,
by Gods impenetrable Counsell, Will, and Providence: Which although
the pride of our wicked nature doth not yeeld the true attribution
thereunto; yet the powerfull working of the counsell of God is such,
that in it selfe, it proveth an eternall wisdome, and confoundeth
the foolishnesse of the world.
[The great City of Grand Cayre.] This incorporate World of Grand Cairo,
is the most admirable and greatest City, seene upon the earth, being
thrice as large of bounds as Constantinople, and likewise so populous,
but not so well builded, being situate in a pleasant Plaine, and in
the heart of Ægypt, kissing Nylus at some parts.
The City is divided in five Townes, first and formost, Cairo novo,
the new Caire, which is the principall & chiefest place of all the
other, lying in midst of the rest, having walles and Ports, the
circuit whereof is 22. miles, contayning al the chiefe merchandise
and market places within it.
The second is Cairo Vecchio, the old Caire, called formerly Cairo de
Babylonia or Babylon Ægyptiorum: for there were two Babylons, one in
Assiria called now by the Turkes Bagdat, and the other is this that
joyneth with the new Caire: It was also aunciently called Memphis,
and was the furthest place that Ulysses in his travels visited,
so well memorized by Homer: yet a voyage of no such estimation, as
that princely Poet accounted it; for his travels were not answerable,
to the fifteene part of mine.
The third Towne is Medin, joyning to the backe side of the old Caire,
toward the Piramides: The fourth is Boulak, running a great length
downe along and neare the River side, having three market places of
no small account: The fift and last, is the great Towne of Caraffar,
bending Southward, in the way of the red Sea for many miles: All
which are but as Suburbs to the new Caire, that of many smalles make
up a Countrey, rather then a City: And yet all of them are contiguat
one with another, either to the left or right hand, or to them both,
with innumerable streets: [The length of great Cayre and the bounds
thereof.] The length whereof in all, from the lowest end of Boulak,
to the South-most part of Caraffar is by my deepe experience twenty
eight English miles, and fourteene in breadth; for tryall whereof I
troad it one day on foote from Sun to Sunne, being guided and guarded
with a riding Janizarie, which for my bruised feete on the streets,
was one of the sorest dayes journey that ever I had in my life.
The principall gates of new Caire are Babell Mamstek looking
toward the Wildernesse and the Red Sea: Bebzavillah toward Nylus,
and Babell Eutuch toward the fields: The streets are narrow, being
all of them almost covered to save them from the parching heate with
open vents for light; and their buildings commonly are two stories
high, composed either of mudde or bricke, and platforme on the tops;
whereon usually in the night they use to sleepe to imbrace the fresh
& cooling ayre. Their Bazar or exchange, beginneth at the gate of
Mamsteck, and endeth at a place called Babeso.
At the corners of chiefe streets or market places, there are divers
horses standing ready sadled and bridled, that for a small matter,
or according to the way, a man may hire and ride so where he will,
either to negotiat, or to view this spacious spred City, and change
as many horses as he listeth, having the Maisters which owe them to
convoy them for lesse or longer way, which is a great ease to weary
passengers.
There is a great commerce here with exceeding many nations, for by
their concurring hither, it is wonderfully peopled with infinite
numbers: for the Countrey aboundeth in Silkes, Cornes, Fruits, Waxe,
Honey, and the soveraigne Balsamo good for all sores, besides many
other commodities of Cotten-wooll, rich Stuffes of cloth of gold and
silver, and the best Sattins, Damas, Taffaties, and Grograines that
are made in the world are here.
The infinite populositie of which place, and the extreame heate,
is the cause why the pest is evermore in the City: insomuch, that
at some certaine times, ten thousand persons have dyed in one day:
Nay, the City is reputed to be in good health, if there dye but one,
or two thousand in a day, or three hundred thousand in a whole yeare,
I meane, when the soare encroaching pestilence, which every third
yeare useth to visite them, is rife here.
[Divers nations residing in Cayre.] In this Towne a Traveller may
ever happily finde all these sorts of Christianes, Italians, French,
Greekes, Chelfaines, Georgians, Æthiopians, Jacobines, Syrians,
Armenians, Nicolaitans, Abassines, Cypriots, Slavonians, captivat
Maltezes, Sicilians, Albaneses, and high Hungarians, Ragusans, and
their owne Ægyptian Copties; the number of which is thought to be
beyond two hundred thousand people: besides the infinite number of
Infidels, whose sorts are these, Turkes, tawny Moores, white Moores,
blacke Moores, or Nigroes, Musilmans, Tartars, Persians, Indians,
Sabuncks, Berdoanes, Jewes, Arabians, Barbares, and Tingitanian
Sarazens. All which are Mahometans, and Idolatrous Pagans.
From the great Palatiat Mansion, where the Begler-Beg, or Vicegerent
hath his residence, being builded on a moderate height; a man may have
the full prospect of the better part of the Towne, the gardens and
Villages bordering on Nylus, and a great part of the lower plaines
of Ægypt. Their Lawes heere and Heathnish Religion, are Turkish and
Mahometanicall, and the Customes and Manners of the people, are like
unto their birth and breeding, beastly and Barbarous; being great
Sodomites, and Diabolically given to all sorts of abhominations.
The better sort of Women here, and all the Kingdom [The Egyptian
decorements.] over, weare Rings of gold or silver, through the hollow
of their noses, both endes of their mouthes, and in their under lips;
hanging rich pearles, and precious stones to them; wearing also about
their armes faire Bracelets, and about their ancles below, broad bonds
of gold or silver. To which if the baser sort can not attayne unto,
then they counterfeit their Betters, with Rings, Bracelets, and bonds
of Brasse, Copper, Lead, and white Iron, and thinke themselves not
worthy to live, unlesse they weare these badges.
They also use here, as commonly they do through all Turkey, the Women
to pisse standing, and the men to coure low on their knees, doing the
like. They weare here linnen breeches and Leather bootes as the men
do, and if it were not for their covered faces, and longer gownes, wee
would hardly know the one from the other. [The Egyptian Christians.] As
for the Religion of the Copties or Ægyptian Christians, they are
Circumcised, after the Judaicall manner, but not after the eight day,
but the eight yeare. And it is thought, they follow the Religion of
Eutyches, holding but one nature in Christ: which was defended by
Dioscorus and the Counsell of Ephesus, in regard of Eutyches. But the
Copties them selves say, they have their Religion from Prester Jehan,
and so it is most manifest, being no difference betweene the one and
the other.
They make frequently at all meetings the signe of the Crosse to other,
thwarting their two foremost fingers, lay them on their brow, and
then on their breasts, and kissing them, the salutation is done.
[The Copties Religion.] They will not suffer no Images, nor Pictures to
be in their Churches, and yet they have an Altar, and a kinde of Masse,
sayd in their owne Language, sacrificing the Ostia, for the reall Body
and Blood of Christ: Yet they deny Purgatory, the invocation of Saints,
and Prayers for the Dead, &c. Neverthelesse auricular Confession is
commonly used among them: so do the Greekes in all these poynts the
like, and all the people Orientall.
The Inhabitants here, were the first Inventors of the Mathematicall
Sciences, of Letters, and of the use of Writing: Great Magicians and
Astrologians, and are yet [The nature of the Egyptian Moores.] indued
with a speciall dexterity of Wit; but somewhat sloathfull, and
given to Ryot and Luxury: Merry also, great Singers, and sociable
Companions; and no wonder, the Land being so plentifull, and their
nature libidinous, it increaseth both their insolence, and inordinate
affections. Neyther doe they live long, in regard of the great heate
they indure. Ægypt being placed betweene the two Tropickes, under the
Torrid Zone, bringeth to passe, that seldome will any there attayne
to threescore yeares of age.
In all this Land of Ægypt, which is a great Kingdome, there is no
running Well or Fountayne, save onely the River Nylus: Neyther do
the Inhabitants scarcely know what Raine is, because they seldome see
any, and if by rare accident, a Cloud happen to dissolve upon them,
it bringeth to their bodies innumerable soares and diseases. And
yet for abundance of Cornes, and all kind of fruites the Earth
yeeldeth, there is no Country can brag with Ægypt; whereupon it was
called in the time of the Romanes, as well as Sicilia, Horreum populi
Romani. And notwithstanding this Kingdome produceth no Wines, neyther
is garnished with Vineyards, but that which strangers make use of are
brought from Candy, Cyprus, and Greece. The defect being thus, these
Mahometanicall Moores observing strictly the Law of their Alcoran,
wil neyther plant wines, nor suffer any to be planted, accounting
it a deadly sin to drinke Wine, but for Coffa, and Sherpet, composed
Liquors, they drinke enough of.
[The Garden of Balsamo.] As for their Balsamo, the Garden wherein
it groweth, lyeth neere to the South-side of Cayre, and inclosed
with a high Wall, being sixe miles in compasse, and daily guarded
by Turkes. To which when I came, being Conducted with a Janizary,
they would not suffer me to enter, neyther any Christian, & far lesse
the Jewes: For not long ago, they were the cause, that almost this
Balme was brought to confusion; they having the custody of it for
certayne yeares.
The Tree it selfe is but of three foote height, which keepeth
evermore the colour greene, having a broad three poynted leafe,
which being thrice in the yeare incised in the body and branches;
it yeeldeth a red Water that droppeth downe in earthen Vessels,
which is the naturall Balsamo.
And not far from this Garden, in a sandy Desart, is the place called
Mommeis, which are innumerable Caves cut foorth of a Rocke, whereunto
the Corpes of the most men in Cayro, are carried and interred. Which
dead bodies remayne alwayes unputrified, neyther yeeld they a stinking
smell: Whereof experiments are plentiful at this day, by the whole
Bodies, Hands, or other parts, which by Merchants are now brought
from thence, and doth make the Mummia which Apothecaries use: The
colour being very blacke, and the flesh clung unto the bones.
Now having viewed, and review'd this Microcosmus of the greater World,
the foure French Pilgrimes and I, did [The pyramides of Egypt.] hire
a Janizary to conduct us to the great Pyramides, surnamed the Worlds
wonders; which are distant from Cayre about foure Leagues, standing
beside or neare to the bankes of Nylus: Where, when come, I beheld
their proportion to bee Quadrangled, growing smaller and smaller
to the toppe, and builded with huge and large stones, the most part
whereof, are five foote broade, or there abouts, and nine in length,
beeing of pure Marble.
All the Historians that ever wrot of these Wonders, have not so amply
Recited their admirable greatnesse, as the experience of the Beholder,
may testifie their excessive greatnesse and height. The first and
East-most we approached unto, is highest, and by our Dragomans skilfull
Report, amounted to eleven hundred and twenty sixe foote. The Basis,
or bottome whereof, being twelve hundred paces in Circuite, allowing
every square of the foure faces three hundred paces, and every pace
two foote and a halfe. Every Pyramide, having outwardly to ascend
upon (though now for the most part demolished) three hundred foure
score and nine steps or degrees; each degree being three foote high,
and two foote and a halfe broad. By which computation, they amount in
height to the afore-sayde Relation, allowing to every foote, twelve
inches. At last having ascended upon the South side of this greatest
Pyramide to the top, and that with great difficulty, because of the
broken degrees here and there: I was much ravished, to see such a large
foure squared plat-forme, all of one intyre stone, which covered the
head; each square extending to seaventeene foote of my measure.
It is yet a great marvaile to me, by what Engine, they could bring
it up so safe to such a hight: But as I conceive it, they behoved
certaynely still to rayse it, and take it with them, as they advanced
the Worke, otherwise the Wit nor power of man, could never have done
it. Truely the more I beheld this strange Worke, the more I was
stricken in admiration: For before wee ascended, or came neare to
this Pyramide, the toppe of it seemed as sharpe as a poynted Dyamond;
but when we were mounted thereon, we found it so large, that in my
opinion, it would have contayned a hundred men.
[The greatest piramide of the three.] In the bottome whereof we found
a great Cell, and within that through a straight and narrow passage,
a foure angled Roome; wherein there was standing the Relickes of
a huge and auncient Toombe, where belike hee that was the first
Founder of this Pyramide was inclosed. From the top of this Pyramide,
our Jannizary did shoote an Arrow in the ayre with all his force,
thinking thereby it should have fallen to the ground; but as we
discended downe-wards, we found the Arrow lying uppon the steps,
scarse halfe way to the ground: From this, wee came to the middle
Pyramide, which a far off looked somewhat higher then the other two,
but when we came to the roote thereof, wee found it not so, for the
stone-worke is a great deale lower, but the advancement of the height,
is onely because of a high ground whereon it standeth.
It is of the same fashion of the first, but hath no degrees to ascend
upon, neyther hath the third Pyramide any at all; being by antiquity of
time, all worne and demolished, yet an admirable worke, to behold such
Masses, and (as it were) erected Mountaines all of fine Marble. The
reason why they were first founded, is by many ancient Authors so
diversly conjectured, that I will not meddle therewith. They were
first called Pharaones.
Yet the first and greatest is said to have beene builded by Cheops,
who in this worke imployed 100000. men, [The charges of the greatest
pyramide.] the space of twenty yeares: In which time, the charges
of Garlick, Rootes, and Onions onely, came to 1600. talents of
silver; the Basis whereof in circuit, was sixty Acres of ground. It
is recorded by Josephus, and conjectured by many good witnesses,
that the Bricks which the Children of Israel were inforced to make,
were partly imployed about the insides of these Piramides, whose
outsides were adorned with Marble; neither can I forget the drift of
that effeminate Cheops, who in end wanting money did prostitute his
daughter to all commers, by which detestable meanes he finished his
building, and shee besides the money due unto her unnaturall Father,
desired for her selfe of every man that had the use of her body one
stone, of whom she got so many, that with them she builded the second
Piramide, almost equall to the first. Besides these three huge ones,
there are a number of smaller, whereof some were transported to Rome
in the time of her supreame domination.
Betweene the biggest Pyramide, and Nylus, I saw a Colosse, or head of
an Idoll, of a wonderfull greatnesse; being all of one Marble stone,
erected on a round Rock: It is of height (not reckoning the Columne)
above 815. foote, and of circuite, 68. Pliny gave it the name Sphingo,
and reported much more of the bignesse, largenesse, and length of it:
but howsoever he erred in his description, yet I resolve my selfe,
it is of so great a quantity, that the like thereof (being one intire
peece) the world affoordeth not, and may be reckoned amongst the
rarest wonders: Some say, that aunciently it was an Oracle, the which
so soone as the Sunne set, would give an answere to the Egyptians,
of any thing by them demanded.
In our way as we returned, our Dragoman shewed us (on the banke
of Nylus) where a Crocodile was killed the yeare before, by the
ingenious policy of a Venetian Merchant, being licentiated by the
Bassaw. The match whereof for bignesse and length, was never seene
in that River, whose body was twenty two foote long, and in compasse
of the shoulders, eight foote, who thus was slaine: This beast for
foure yeares together kept alwaies about one place of the River,
being seven miles above Cayre; where for a mile of ground, there
was no tillage nor pastorage, being for feare of him layd wast: and
neverthelesse he had devoured above forty sixe persons: his custome
was to come forth of the River every morning, about our eight houres;
where here and there he would lurke waiting for his prey till ten,
for longer from water he could not stay.
[A resolute Venetian Merchant.] This Venetian leaving his ship
at Alexandria, and comming to Cayre, was informed by the Consul
my adversary of the great spoyle done by this beast: and herewith
generously he undertooke to kill it, the Vicegerent licentiating him:
Whereupon going to his ship, fetched thence his Gunner, and a peece
of Ordonance to Cayre.
The next day in the afternoone, hee being well horsed, and accompanied
with twenty Janizaries, the peece is carried to the Crocodiles
accustomary place, of forthcomming: where straight there was an Asse
slaine, and hung up on two standing and a thwarting tree, with his
open belly to the flood, and some twelve scorepaces therefrom: Behinde
this carkasse, about other twelve score, the piece was planted, and
levelld at the Carrion, being charged with cut iron; and a traine of
powder about the touch-hole, and above it a night-house to keepe the
trayne dry from the nights serene: having a cock fastned thereto,
and in it a burning match, to which a string was tyed: Then forty
paces behinde the piece, was there a pit digged to hide the Gunner;
wherein he was put, holding the strings end in his hand, and his head
vayled with a wooden covert.
After this, and about mid-night, the Horse-men retired themselves two
miles off: The morning come, and the convenient time: the Crocodile
courts the land: where when he saw the carkasse, came grumbling to it,
and setting his two foremost feet on the Carrions middle, begun to make
good cheare of the intrales: whereat the squink-eyed Gunner perceiving
his time, drew the string, [The killing of a great Crocodile.] and
giving fire, off went the piece, and shot the Crocodile in three parts:
well, he is deadly wounded, and making a horrible noyse, the Gunner
lay denned, and durst not stirre: meanewhile the beast striving to
recover the water, tyred, and lying close on his belly there he dyed.
After the shot, the Horse-men drew neare, and finding the beast
slaine, relieved the Gunner, and brought with them this monstruous
creature to Cayre; where now his skinne hangeth in the Consuls Hall,
which I saw during my stay in his house. For this piece of service,
the Merchant was greatly applauded, & scorned to take from the City
500. Sultans of gold as a reward for his paines, which they freely
offered him, and he as freely refused.
Now to discourse of Nylus, this flood irriguateth all the low playnes
of the Land, once in the yeare, which inundation, beginneth usually
in the latter end of July; and continueth to the end of August: Which
furnisheth with Water all the Inhabitants; being the onely drinke
of the vulgar Ægyptians; and of such vertue, that when Pescennius
Niger saw his Souldiers grumble for Wine, What (sayth hee) doe
you grumble for Wine, having the Water of Nylus to drinke. And now
because many schollers, and learned men, are meerely mistaken about
[The true knowledge of the flowing of Nylus.] the flowing of Nylus,
I will both show the manner and quality or cause of its inundation,
and thus. There is a drye pond called Machash digged neare unto the
brinke of the River, in midst whereof standeth a pillar of eighteene
Cubites height, being equall with the profundity of the Ditch, whereby
they know his increasing: and in the yeare following if they shal
have plenty or scarcity of things.
Now betweene the River and this pond, there are sixe passages or spouts
digged through the Banke; where when the River beginneth to swell,
it immediately fals downe through the lowest passage into the pond,
and being discovered there comes forth of Cayre, certayne of the
Priests called Darvishes, accompanied with a hundred Janizaries, and
pitch their Tents round about this Quadrangled pit. In all which time
of the Inundation, they make great Feastings, rare Solemnities, with
Dancing, Singing, toucking of kettle Drummes, sounding of Trumpets,
and other ostentations of joy.
Now as the Water groweth in the River, and so from it debording, so
it groweth also upon the Pillar standing in this pond, which pillar
is marked from the roote to the top, with Brasses, handfuls, a foote,
a span, and an inch: And so if it shall happen that the water rise
but to ten Brasses, it presageth the yeare following there shal be
great Dearth, Pestilence, and famine. And if it amounteth to twelve
Cubites, then the sequell yeare shal be indifferent. And if it swell
to fifteene Brasses, then the next yeare shal be copious and abundant
in all things: And if it shall happen to flow to the top, eighteen
Brasses, then all the Country of Ægypt, is in danger to be drowned
and destroyed.
[Many Schollers mistaken about Nylus.] Now from the body of Nylus,
there are above three thousand Channels drawne through the playne,
on which passing Ditches, are all the Bourges and Townes builded;
and through which Channels the River spreads it selfe through all the
Kingdome: Which when scoured, of filth and Wormes, and the water become
cleare, then every House openeth their Cisterne window, and receiveth
as much water, as is able to suffice them till the next Inundation:
Neyther doth ever the River flow any where above the Bankes, for if
it should, it would overwhelme the whole Kingdome.
All which Channels here or there, do make intercourse for their
streames agayne, to the body and branches of Nylus. Now Stoicall fooles
hold the opinion, that it overfloweth the whole face of the Land,
then I pray you, what would become of their Houses, their Bestiall,
their Cornes and fruites? for the nature of violent streames, do
ever deface, transplant, and destroy all that they debord upon,
leaving slime, mood, and Sand behind their breaches, and therefore
such inunding can not be called cherishings.
There are infinite venemous Creatures bred in this river, as
Crocadiles, Scorpions, Water-Snakes, grievous mis-shapen Wormes, and
other Monstrous things, which oft annoy the Inhabitants, and these who
Trafficke on the Water. This famous flood is in length almost three
thousand miles, and hath his beginning under the Æquinoctiall Line,
from montes Lunæ, but more truly from the Zembrian Lake in Æthyopia
interior, whence it bringeth the full growth downe into Ægypt, and
in a place of the exterior Æthiopian Alpes called Catadupa: The fall
and roaring of Nyle, maketh the people deafe that dwell neere to it.
[The reason of the flowing of Nylus.] The infallible reason, why
Nylus increaseth so every yeare, at such a time and continuance,
is onely this; that when the Sunne declining Northward to Cancer,
and warming with his vigorous face, the Septentrion sides of these
Cynthian mountaynes, the abundant Snow melteth: from whence dissolving
in streames, to the Lake Zembria, it ingorgeth Nylus so long as the
matter delabiates: For benefit of which River, the great Turke is
inforced, to pay yearely the tribute of fifty thousand Sultans of
gold to Prester Jehan, least he impede and withdraw the course of
Nylus to the Red Sea, and so bring Ægypt to desolation: The ground
and policy whereof, begunne upon a desperate Warre inflicted upon
the Æthiopians by Amurath, which hee was constrayned to give over,
under this pact, and for Nylus sake.
The River Nyle had many names, for Diodore named it Actos, to wit,
Eagle, because of its swift passing over the Catadupian heights:
It was called too, Ægyptus, of a King so named, that communicated
the same to it, and to the Countrey.
Festus, sayth it was called Melos, and Plutarch tearmed it Mela:
Epiphanio called it Chrysoroas, that is, running, or coulant in
gold. The Holy Scripture tearmeth it Seor or Sihor, to wit, Trouble,
because of the great noyse it bringeth with it to Ægypt; and the same
Holy Letters call it Gehou, and Physon. The Ægyptians wont to name
it Nospra; and now presently the Abassines, and Inhabitants of Ægypt,
name it Abanhu, to wit, the River of a long course.
[The Ile of Delta.] This River maketh the Ile of Delta in Ægypt;
so likewise in Æthiopia, that Ile of Meroa so renowned. The ancient
Authors, could not agree, touching the mouthes of Nylus; for Melo,
Strabo, Diodore, and Heredotus place seaven; Ptolomy, and others
nine; and Pliny eleaven. And some moderne Authors affirme it hath
onely foure, as Tyrre and Behou alleadge, dividing it selfe two
leagues below Cayre in foure branches, the chiefest two whereof,
are these of Damiota and Roseta, but that is false, and so are the
opinions of all the rest, for it hath now eight severall mouthes,
and as many branches drawne from its mayne body.
The Water of Nyle is marvailous sweete, above all others in the World,
and that proceedeth of the extreame vigour of the Sunne, beating
continually upon, it maketh it become more Lighter, Purer, and Simple;
as likewise arrousing of so many Soyles, and his long Course.
And truely it is admirable, to see this River to grow great, when all
others grow small; and to see it diminish, when others grow great. So
alwayes it is no wonder, that the nature of this River should so
increase, when even here, and at home, the river of Rhone, hath the
like intercourse: and at the same time, through the Towne of Geneve,
and so to the Mediterranean Sea: Their beginnings being both alike;
from the impetuosity of raynes, and dissolvings of Snow.
Ægypt was first inhabited by Misraim, the Sonne of Chus from whom the
Arabians name the land Misre, in the Hebrew tongue Misroiæ. It was also
named Oceana, from Oceanus the second King hereof. Thirdly, Osiriana
from Osiris; and now Ægyptus from Ægyptus the surname of Rameses,
once a King of great puissance. [The confines of Egypt.] It bordereth
with Æthiopia, and the Confines of Nubia: on the South. On the North
with the sea Mediterrene: The chiefest ports whereof, are Damieta,
and Alexandria, towards the occident, it joyneth with the great
Lake Bouchiarah, and a daungerous Wildernesse confining therewith,
supposed to be a part of Cyrene; so full of wilde and venemous beasts,
which maketh the West part unaccessable: And on the East, with the
Istmus, and Confine of Desartuous Arabia, and a part of the Red Sea,
through which the people of Israel passed.
This Country was governed by Kings first, and longest of all
other Nations: From Osiris (not reckoning his Regall Ancestors)
in whose time Abraham went downe to Ægypt, he and his Successours,
were all called Pharaoes; of whom Amasis, is onely worthy mention,
who instituted such politicke Lawes to the auncient Egyptians, that
he deserveth to be Catalogized, as founder or this Kingdome.
This Race continued till Cambises the second Persian Monarch, made
Ægypt a member of his Empire: and so remayned till Darius Nothus
the sixt Persian King: from whom they Revolted, choosing Kings of
themselves. But in the eighteene yeare of Nectanebos the seventh King
thereafter, Ægypt was recovered by Ochus, the eight Emperour of Persia.
In end Darius being vanquished, and Alexander King hereof, after
his Death it fell to the share of Ptolomeus, the sonne of Lagi,
from whom the Kings of Ægypt were for a long time called Ptolomeis:
of whom Queene Cleopatra was the last, after whose selfe murther,
it was annexed for many yeares to the Romane Empire, and next to the
Constantinopolitan: from whose insupportable burden they revolted,
and became tributaries for a small time to Haumar the third Caliph
of Babylon.
Afterward being oppressed by Almericus King of Jerusalem; Noradin
a Turkish King of Damascus sent Saracon a valiant Warriour to aide
them, who made him [The alterations of Egypt.] selfe absolute King
of the whole Countrey; whose ofspring succeeded (of whom Saladine
was one, the glorious conquerour of the East) till Melechsala, who
was slaine by his owne souldiers the Mamaluks; who were the guard of
the Suldans, as the Jannizaries are to the great Turke, who lately,
Anno 1622. have almost made the like mutation in the Turkish Empire,
as the Mamaluks did in the Ægyptian.
They made of themselves Sultans, whereby the Mamaluke race continued
from the yeare 1250. till the yeare 1517. wherein Tonembius, together
with his predecessour Campson Gaurus, was overcome by Selimus the
first; by whom Ægypt was made a Province of the Turkish Empire,
and so continueth as yet.
The length of this Kingdome, is foure hundred and fifty English miles,
and two hundred broad: the principal seat whereof is the great Caire,
being distant from Jerusalem sixteene dayes journey, or Caravans
journalls, amounting to 240. of our miles. Some hold that the space
of earth, that lyeth betweene the two branches of Damieta, and Roseta
was called the lower Ægypt; now called Delta under the figure of a
Greeke letter triangular.
The head of this great Delta, where Nylus divideth it selfe was
called Heptapolis, or Hoptanomia; and Delta it selfe was called by the
Romanes Augustamia: Ægypt besides the aforesayd names, it had divers
Epithites of divers Authors; for Appollodorus tearmed it the Religion
of Melampodes, because of the fertility of it: And Plutarch gave it
the name Chimia, because of the holy ceremonies of the Ægyptians in
worshipping their Gods: The Etymology whereof Ortelius condignely
remarked, deriving it from Cham, the sonne of Noah, so that some
hold the opinion, that the Ægyptians had their originall from Misraim
(for so was Ægypt called) the sonne of Chus, that proceeded from Cham
Noahs sonne: The circuit of Delta or the lower Ægypt is thought to
be 3000. of their stades, which maketh a hundred Spanish leagues.
[The revenews of Egypt.] In the time of the Ptolomeis the revenewes
of this Kingdome were 12000. talents; so also in the time of the
Mamaluks; but now through tyranical government, and discontinuance
of trafficke through the red sea, the Turke receiveth no more than
three millions yearely; one of the which is free to him selfe, the
other two are distributed to support the charge of his Vicegerent
Bassaw, and presidiary souldiers, being 12000. Jannizaries, besides
their thousands of Timariots, which keepe Ægypt from the incursions
and tyranny of Arabs: In Cayro I stayed twelve dayes, and having bid
farewell to Monsieur Beauclair the Consul who courteously intertained
me, the other foure French Pilgrimes and I imbarked at Boulacque in
a boate: And as we went downe the River, the chiefe Townes of note
we saw were these, Salmona, Pharsone, Fova, & Abdan. I remember our
boate was double hooked with forked pikes of iron round about the
sides, for feare of the Crocodiles, who usually leape up on boates,
and will carry the passenger away headlong in the streame: And yet
these beasts themselves are devoured by a water-Rat, of whom they
taking great pleasure, and play, and gaping widely, the Rat running
into his mouth, the other out of joy swalloweth it down, where
the Rat for disdaine commeth forth at the broad side of his belly
leaving the Crocodile dead. In these parts there is a stone called
Aquiline, which hath the vertue to deliver a woman from her paine
in child-birth. In all this way the greatest pleasure I had, was to
behold the rare beauty of certaine Birds, called by the Turkes, Ellock;
whose feathers being beautified with the diversity of rarest colours,
yeeld a farre off to the beholder a delectable shew: having also this
propriety, the nearer a man approacheth them, the more they loose the
beauty of their feathers by reason of the feare they conceive when
they see a man. Upon the third day we landed at Rosetta, and came over
land with a company of Turkes to Alexandria, being 50. miles distant.
[The Towne of Alexandria.] Alexandria is the second Port in all Turky:
It was of old a most renowned City, and was built by Alexander the
great, but now is greatly decayed, as may appeare by the huge ruines
therein: It hath two havens, the one whereof is strongly fortified with
two Castles, which defend both it selfe and also Porto vecchio: The
fields about the Towne are sandy, which ingender an infectious ayre,
especially in the moneth of August, and is the reason why strangers
fall into bloody fluxes and other heavy sicknesses. In my staying
here, I was advised by a Ragusan Consul, to keepe my stomacke hot, to
abstaine from eating of fruit, and to live soberly, with a temperate
diet: The rule of which government, I strove diligently to observe,
so did I also in all my travells prosecute the like course of a small
diet, and was often too small against my will, by the meanes whereof
(praised be God) I fell never sicke till my returne to France.
This Citty is mightily impoverished since the Trading of Spices
that were brought through the red Sea, to Ægypt, and so over Land to
Alexandria & its Sea-port: Whence the Venetian dispersed them over all
Christendome; but are now brought home by the backe-side of Affricke,
by the Portugals, English, and Flemings, which maketh both Venice,
and Alexandria fare the worse, for want of their former Trafficke,
and commerce in these Southerne parts: whence Venice grew the mother
nurse to all Europe for these Commodities, but now altogether spoyled
thereof, and decayed by our Westerne Adventures, in a longer course
for these Indian soyles.
This Citty was a place of great Merchandize, and in the Nycen Councell
was ordayned to be one of [The foure Patriarchall Seas.] the foure
Patriarchall seas; the other three are Antiochia, Jerusalem, and
Constantinople. Heere in Alexandria was that famous Library which
Ptolomeus Philadelphus filled with 700000. volumes: It was he that
also caused the 72. Interpreters, to translate the Bible: Over against
Alexandria, is the little Ile Pharos, in the which for the commodity
of Saylers the aforesaid King builded a watch-towre of white Marble;
being of so marvellous a height, that it was accounted one of the
seven wonders of the world: the other six, being the Pyramides, the
Tombe Mausolaea, which Helicarnassus Queene of Caria caused build in
honour of her Husband: the Temple of Ephesus, the Wals of Babylon,
the Colossus of Rhodes, and the Statue of Jupiter Olympicus at Elis
in Greece, which was made by Phidias, an excellent worke-master in
Gold and Ivory, being in height 60. Cubites.
Expecting fifteene dayes heere in Alexandria for passage, great was
the heate the French men and I indured, in so much that in the day
time, we did nought but in a low roome, besprinckle the water upon our
selves, and all the night lye on the top or platforme of the house, to
have the ayre; where at last bidding good-night to our Greekish Host,
we imbarked in a Slavonian shippe, belonging to Ragusa; and so set
our faces North for Christendome; in which ship I was kindly used,
and Christian-like intertayned both for victuals and passage. The
Windes somewhat at the beginning favouring us, wee weighed Anckers,
and set forward to Sea: leaving the Coast of Cyrene Westward from us,
which lyeth betweene Ægypt by the Sea side, and Numidia, or Kingdome
of Tunnis.
[The fabulous Countrey of Syrene.] The chiefe Cities therein are
Cyrene, Arsinoa, and Barca whence the whole Cyrenean Country taketh
the modern name Barca Marmorica, anciently Penta Politana. The Soyle
is barren of Waters and Fruites, the people rude and theftuous:
yet it hath bred the most ingenious spirits of Calimachus the Poet;
Aristippus the Phylosopher; Eratosthenes the Mathematician, and Symon
of Cyrene, whom the Jewes compelled to carry our Saviours Crosse.
In this Province, which is now reckoned as a part of Ægypt, stood
the Oracle of Jupiter Hammon, in the great Wildernesse confining with
Lybia: Whither when Alexander travailed, he saw for foure dayes space,
neither man, Beast, Bird, Tree, nor River: Where, when arrived, the
flattering Priests, professed him to be the sonne of Jupiter: which
afterward (being hurt with an Arrow) hee found false, saying; Omnes
me vocant filium Jovis, sed hæc sagitta me probat esse mortalem. West
from Cyrene all the Kingdomes of Tunnis, Tremisen, Algier, Fesse,
and a part of Morocco even to Gibilterre, or fretum Herculeum, under
a generall name now called Barbary; and hardly can be distinguished
by the barbarous Moores.
In the time of this our Navigation for Christendome, there dyed
seaventeene of our Mariners, and all our foure French Pilgrimes,
two of them being gray hayred, and 60. yeares of age, which bred no
small griefe, and feare to us all, thinking that they had dyed of the
plague, for it was exceeding rife in Alexandria from whence wee came.
The French men had onely left unspent among them all, threescore and
nine Chickens of gold, which the Master of the Ship medled with,
and because they were Papists, and they and I alwayes adverse to
other, I could not clayme it. [Foure French Pilgrimes dead.] Their
dead Corpes were cast over Board, in a boundlesse Grave to feed
the fishes, and wee then expecting too the like mutation of Life;
So likewise in our passage, we were five sundry times assayled by
the Cursares and Pyrats of Tunnis and Biserta; yet unprevailing,
for we were well provided with good Munition, and skilfull, Martiall,
and resolute Ragusans, and a Gallant ship.
Our Ships burthen being sixe hundred Tunnes, did carry twenty eight
peeces of Ordonance, two of them brazen; and foure score strong
and strenuous Saylers, besides nine Merchants and Passengers. The
greatnesse of our ship did more terrifie the roguish Runagats, then
any violent defence we made: for they durst never set on us, unlesse
they had beene three together; and yet we little regarded them, in
respect of our long reaching Ordonance, and expert Gunners: In these
Circumstances of time, I remember, almost every day, wee would see
[Flying fish.] flockes of flying Fishes, scudding upon the curling
waves, so long as their finnes be wet, which grow from their backe,
as feathred wings doe from Fowles: But when they grow drye, they are
forced to fall downe and wet them agayne, and then flye along. Their
flight will bee the length of a Cables Rope, untouching Water; and
in this their scudding, it is thought the Dolphin, is in persuing
them, who is their onely enemy in devouring and feeding upon them;
whose bignesse and length are like to Mackrels, but greater headed
and shouldered. Meanewhile in these our Courses were we seven weekes
crossed with Northerly Windes, ever Tackling and boarding from the
Affricke Coast, to the Carminian shoare, in all which time wee saw no
Land, except the boysterous billowes of glassie Neptune: And as Ovid
sayde, in the like case crossing the Ionian seas, Nil nisi pontus et
aer, viz.
Nothing but Waves I view, where ships do floate
And dangers lye: huge Whales do tumbling play;
Above my head, Heavens star-imbroadred coate,
Whose vault containes, two eyes for night and day,
Far from the Maine, or any Marine Coast,
Twixt Borean blasts, and billowes we are tost.
If Ovid, in that strait Ionean deepe
Was tost so hard; much more am I on Seas
Of larger bounds; where staffe and Compasse Keepe
Their strict observance; yet in this unease
Of tackling Boards, we so the way make short,
That still our course, drawes neerer to the Port.
Betweene the streame, and silver spangled skye,
We rolling climbe, then hurling fall beneath;
Our way is Serpent like, in Meeds which lye,
That bowes the Grasse, but never makes no path:
But fitter like yong maides, and youths together,
Run here and there, alwhere, and none Know whether.
Our way we Know, and yet unknowne to other,
And whiles misknowne to us, before we dive;
The hand, and compasse, that governe the Ruther
Doe often erre: although the Pilots strive
With Cart and plot; their reckonings sometimes fall,
Too narrow, short, too high, too wide, too small.
To dascon this, remarke, when they set land,
Some this, some that, doe gesse, this Hill, that Cape;
For many houres, their skill in suspence stand
Tearming, this fore, that headland, points the Mape:
Which when mistooke, this forgd excuse goes cleare,
O such! and such a land, it first did peere.
In all which strife, stress'd Saylers have the paine
By drudging, pulling, hayling, standing to it
In cold and raine, both dry and wet, they straine
Themselves to toile, none else but they must doe it:
We passengers behold, with belching throats
Onely their taske atchievd in quivering boates.
Then since but ayre and water I perceive,
One's hot and moyst, the other moyst and cold;
It's earth that's cold and dry, I longing crave
And fire that's dry and hot, I wishing would;
Then thundring Æole, from thy seven rigged Towres,
Soone waft us o're, forth from these glassy Bowres.
My wish is come, I see each bulging sayle
For pride begins to swell, betweene two sheetes;
She ticklish grows, as wanton of her tayle,
And layes her side, close where the weather beats;
Both prone and puppe, do answere so the Helme,
The Steirsman sings, no griefe his joy can whelm.
By night our watch we set, by day our sight,
And thirle our Sailes, if Pirats but appeare;
We rest resolv'd, it's force, makes Cowards fight,
Though none more dare, then they that have most feare,
It's courage makes us rash, and wisdome cold,
Yet wise men, stout, and stung, grow Lyon bold.
Now we looke out for Land, now we see Malt!
That little famous Ile, though sterrile soile;
Where we'le some Bay, or Creeke seeke to assault
Whence Ancorage, and safety ships recoile:
Now, now, let Anchor fall we're in the Road
Savely arriv'd, by providence of God.
This done, as time avouc'hd, I kindly bad
My Consorts all adew, then came a shoare,
Where I such plenty of great favours had,
That scarse the like, I ever found before.
These white cross'd Knights, with their eight pointed crosses,
Imbrac'd my sight, with it, my toiles, and tosses:
So ends my Verse, and so I'le straight disclose
The Ile, the Folkes, their Manners, in plaine Prose.
The greatest cause of our Arrivall here, was in regard of our fresh
Water that was spent; and therefore constrayned to beare in to this
Ile: Which was my sole desire, wishing rather to Land heere, to see
the Order of our Knights of Christendome, then to arrive at Ragusa in
the Adriaticke Gulfe, where I had beene before. Our [A joyfull arrival
in Malta.] Anchors being grounded, and our Boate ready to court the
shoare, I bad farwell to all the Company, and in a singular respect
to my generous Captayne, who would have nothing for my victuales
and transportation from Ægypt; except a few relicts of Jerusalem:
The boat being launched, and we landed in the haven, I accoasted a
vulgar Taverne, and there lodged.
This City is divided in two, the old and new Malta, from which the
Ile taketh the name; it is a large and populous place, and strongly
fortified with invincible walles, and two impregnable Castles
St. Hermes, and St. Angelo; St. Michael being distant from both:
Here the great Master or Prince for that yeare being a Spaniard
made much of me for Jerusalems sake; so did also a number of these
gallant Knights, to whom I was greatly obliged. And withall to my
great contentment, I rancountred here with a countrey Gentleman of
mine, being a souldier there, named William Douglas, who afterward
for his long and good service at sea was solemnely Knighted, and
made one of their order. Whose fidele and manly services have beene
since as plausibly regarded by the Maltezes, as Monsieur Creichton
his worth, in learning and excellent memory, rests admired in Italy,
but especially by the noble Gonzagaes, and dependant friends of the
house of Mantua; for whose losse, and accidentall death, they still
heavily bemone: acknowledging that the race of that Princely stock,
by Gods judgements was cut off, because of his untimely death.
[The Ile of Malta.] Malta was called Melita, mentioned Acts
28. 1. 2. where the Viper leaped on Paules hand; I saw also the Creeke
wherein he was shipwracked: This Iland may properly be termed the
Fort of Christendome, yet a barren place, and of no great bounds,
for their Cornes, and Wines come daily by Barkes from Sycilia: but
it yeeldeth good store of Pomegranates, Cittrons, Cottons, Orenges,
Lemmons, Figges, Mellons, and other excellent fruits. The Knights of
Malta had their beginning at Acre in Palestina; from thence to the
Rhodes, & now exposed to this rocky Ile. They are pertinacious foes
to Infidels, for such is the oath of their order, continually making
war and incursions against them, to their power: being strengthned
also with many souldiers, and their Captaines are surnamed Knights
of Malta, and so through a great part of Christendome; it is a most
honourable Order: They are not permitted to marry, the most part
of whom being younger brothers: the reason was, because not being
intangled to wife and children, they might be the more resolute to
adventure their lives in the Christian service; but therein they are
mightily decayed, and their valour no way answerable to that it hath
been when their auncestors lived in the Rhodes and holy Land; having
had these eighteene yeares past little or no good fortune at all.
This Ile was given in possession to these Knights of St. John,
by the Emperour Charles the fifth, and King of Spaine; being newly
expelled from the Rhodes by Solyman the magnificent, Anno 1522. And
afterward the Turke not contented therewith, and mindfull all-utterly
to extermine their power, came with a huge Armado, and assayled Malta,
Anno 1565. when Valetta was great [An invincible victory.] maister, who
so couragiously withstood their fury, that the Turkes were defeated,
and forced to returne.
This Iland is ten leagues in length, and three broad: the earth whereof
being three foote deepe, is the cause, why it is not so fertile, as
the clymat might afford: It containeth besides the City, forty seven
Villages and nine Cassales; the peasants or naturall Inhabitants
whereof, are of the Affrican complexion, tanny, and Sun-burnt; and
their language semblable to the Barbarian speech, without any great
difference, both tongues being a corrupt Arabick: And not unlike
therein to the Italians from the Latine, or the vulgar Greeke from
the auncient; yet the moderne Greeke is nearer the auncient, then the
Italian is the Latine: These rurall Maltezes are extreamely bent,
in all their actions, either to good or evill wanting fortitude of
minde, and civill discretion, they can not temper the violent humours
of their passions, but as the headstrong-tide, so their dispositions
runne, in the superfluous excesse of affections.
They follow the Romane Church, though ignorant of the way, and
their woemen be lovely faire, going head-covered with blacke vayles,
and much inclined to [The nature of the Maltezes.] licentiousnesse;
their beauties being burrowed from helpe more then nature: for now it
is a common practice amongst decayed beauties, banquerouted by time
or accidents, to hide it from others eyes with Art, and from their
owne with false glasses. But (alasse) the graces and beauties of the
soule ought more to be cared for, and to have the first place and
honour, above these counterfeit or outward showes of the body; and the
beauty and lovely proportion of the body, should be preferred before
the effeminate deckings, that the body doth rather carry then enjoy:
since it often hapneth; that a foule and deformed carkasse hath a faire
and rich wardrope. In this Towne of Malta, there are many Turkish and
Moorish slaves, very rudely treat, yet not answerable to that cruelty
the slavish Christianes indure upon their Gallies in Barbary or Turky:
The discription of Malta, I postpone to the succeeding relations of my
second Travells; and after twelve daies staying here, I imbarked in a
Frigat with other passengers, and arrived at Cicly in the South-east
corner of Sicilia, being three score miles distant.
From thence coasting the shoare fifty miles to Siracusa, I rancounterd
by the way, in a clifty Creeke close by the sea side, a Moorish
Brigantine, with twelve oares on each side, charged with Moores, who
had secretly stayed there a night and a day stealing the people away
labouring on the fields: At which sudden sight, and being hard by them,
I stopped my pace. Whereupon, about twenty Moores broke out upon me,
with shables & slings: But my life and liberty being deare to me, my
long traced feete became more nimble in twelve score paces, than they
could follow in eighteene; for I behoved to fly backe the same way I
came: where, when freed, I hastned to the next Watch-tower, marine set,
and there told the Centinell, how a [A Moorish Brigantine.] Moorish
Brigantine was lying within two miles at an obscure clift: and how
hardly I escaped their hands: whereupon he making a fire on the top
of the Tower, and from him all the Watch-towers along, gave presently
warning to the contrey; so that in a moment, them of the Villages
came downe on horse and foote, and well armed, and demanding me
seriously of the trueth, I brought them with all possible celerity
to the very place: where forthwith the Horse-men broke upon them,
wounding divers, before they were all taken, for some fled to the
Rocks, and some were in the coverd fields hunting their prey: At last
they were all seazed upon, and fast tyed two, and two in iron chaines,
and sixe Sicilians relieved whom they had stolne and thralled: Whence
they were carried to Syracusa, I went also along with them, where, by
the way the people blessed me, and thanked God for mine escape, and me
for discovering them: from Syracusa (being condemned to the galleyes)
upon the third day they were sent to Palermo, being 36. in number.
They gone, and I reposing here, the governour of that place, for
this piece of service, and my travels sake did feast me three dayes,
and at my departure would have rewarded me with gold, so also the
friends of them that were relieved, which if I tooke or not judge
you, that best can judge on discretion. This Citty is situate on a
Promontore, that butteth in the Sea, having but one entery, and was
once the Capitall seat of the Kingdom, though now by old tyranies,
and late alterations of time, it is onely become a private place:
Yet girded about with the most fragrant fields, for dainty fruites,
and delicate Muscatello that all Europe can produce.
From this place, over-tracing other fifty miles to Catagna, situate at
Ætnaes foote; I measured the third fifty miles to Messina. Where now
I cease to discourse any further of this Iland, till my returne for
Affricke, being my second Voyage: For true it is, double experience,
deeper Knowledge; where then punctually in my following order, the
Reader I hope shall finde his desired satisfaction.
[An happy arrivall.] From Messina, I imbarked in a Neapolitan Boat
loaden with Passingers; whence shoaring along for foure hundred
miles, the higher and lower Calabrian Coast, with a part of the
Lavorean lists, uppon the twelfth day, we landed at Naples. Where
being disbarked, I gave God thankes upon my flexed knees, for my
safe arrivall in Christendome: And meeting there with the Earle of
Bothwell, and Captayne George Hepburne, I imbraced the way to Rome,
being sixe score and ten miles distant: where I stole one nights
lodging privately, and on the morrow earely departing thence, and
crossing Tyber, I visited these Townes in Italy before I courted the
Alpes, Siena, Florence, Luca, Pisa, Genoa, Bullogna, Parma, Pavia,
Piacenza, Mantua, Milane, and Torine: the commendation of which Cities
rest revolv'd in these following verses.
Illustrat Sænas, patriæ facundia Lingua,
Splendida solertes, nutrit Florentia Cives;
Libera luca tremit, ducibus vicina duobus:
Flent Pisa amissum, dum contemplantur honorem:
Genua habet portum, mercesque domosque superbas:
Excellit studiis, facunda Bononia cunctis,
Commendant Parmam, lac, caseus, atque Butirum,
Italicos versus, prefert Papia Latinis;
Non caret Hospitiis, per pulchra Placentia caris:
Mantua gaudet aquis, ortu decorata Maronis,
Est Mediolanum jucundum nobile magnum,
Taurinum exornant virtus, pietasque, fidesque.
Having passed Torine, and its Princely Court, whose present Duke
might have beene the mirrour of Nobility, I kept my way through
Piemont or Pedemontano, the sister of Lombardy, and second Garden
of Europe; and crossing the steepe and Snowy Mountayne of Mont Cola
[The Ligurian Alpes.] di Tenda, the highest Hill of all the Alpes:
I found on its top, that it reserveth alwayes a Gradinian mist, for
a mile of way long stakes, set in the Snow, each one a Speares length
from another, to guide the Passinger his dangerous way; of the which
stoopes if hee fayle, hee is lost for ever.
After I had traversed this difficult passage, I had two dayes journey
in climbing and thwarting the Rockey and intricated hils of Liguria,
over which Hannibal had so much adoe, to conduct his Army to Italy;
making a way through the Snow, with Fire, Vineger, and Wine: Whence
it was sayd of him, Viam aut inveniet Anniball, aut faciet: Leaving
these Mountaynes behind me, I arrived at Niece in Provance, situate
on the Mediterren Sea; and passing the Townes of Antibo and Cana,
to night at Furges; there were three French murderers set uppon me in
a theevish Wood twelve miles long; one of which had dogged me hither
from Niece: Where having extreamely given me a fearefull chase, for
a long League, and not mending themselves, they gave me over. Well,
in the midst of the Wood I found an Hostery, and in it, two Women,
and three young Children, with whom I stayed and lodged all night.
[A happy escape from murder.] After I had sup'd and going to bed,
in came these aforesayd Villaines, accompanied with my Host; where,
when seene, they straight accused me for my flight, and threatning
me with stroakes, consulted my Death. Then I cryed to my Host for
helpe, but hee stood dumbe, for he was their Companion, and to second
their intention his wife made fast the lower doore. Whereat being
mooved with deadly feare, I pulled my Turkish gowne from my backe,
and opening my Sacket; sayd, Now Christian Gentlemen, I know you are
distressed, and so am I, come search my cloathes and Budget, and if
you find what you looke for, let me dye: Alas, I am a poore stranger,
newly come from Jerusalem, and the Sepulcher of Jesus Christ, and
after long travailes, and loe there is my Patent: And concerning my
flight, I sweare, I onely fled for the safety of my life, but not for
the preservation of my money, for come see I have none: my griefe
is that I have it not for you: Good gentlemen consider the dangers
that I have past amongst Infidels, and let not your Christian hands
rob me of my turmoyled life; having nought, wherefore you should,
were a lamentable thing to do.
This spoken, and much more, they never searched me, nor touched
my Wallet, but went to Counsell, where they concluded uppon my
forwardnesse in opening my body and other things to them, that I
had no money, and therefore confirmed my life, which for the former
respect, and the Holy Graves sake was granted. Whereupon packing up
my Relickes agayne, they called for Wine, and drunke diverse times
to me; and after a long spent conference, there supper making ready,
they dismissed me for my bed: Whether, when led by my Hostesse, I
privily made the doore fast, suspecting still a suddaine death: Well
they sup'd, and were joviall, and at the first Cocke, went foorth to
the woode, and the high way for their owne ends.
All which time I stood Centinell, and the morning come, my Host
confessed, that onely he had saved my life; forswearing himselfe of
their former sight; but sayd hee certainly they are Murderers. Leaving
him with dissembling thankes, I arrived at Furges: where I learned [A
guard of Horsemen for a dangerous wood.] that my Host was suspected
to bee a Consort with these and many moe Murderers: well afterwards
I heard, hee was arraigned, hanged, and quartered, the house razed,
and his wife put to death; and ever since the French King, keepeth
a guard of Horse-men there to keepe that filthy and dangerous woode
free from Murderers. For now may I say, like to a ship that after a
long Voyage, is eyther in greatest danger, or else cast away, entring
the Roade and Haven from whence shee came; even so was I cast in the
most eminent perill, that I had in all my Travayles, being on the
Frontiers of France, and as it were, (in regard of remoter places)
entering the Towne wherein I was borne.
Having given humble thankes, and lofty prayses to the Almighty for
my deliverance, I traversed Provance, and Langadocke, where neare to
Montpeillier, I met with the French gentlemans Father, whom I relieved
from the Gallies in Canea of Candy; who being over-joyed with my sight,
kindly intreated me for eight dayes, and highly rewarded mee with
Spanish Pistols, lamenting for my sake that his sonne was at Paris:
whence continuing my Voyage to Barselona in Catelogna of Spaine,
I gave over my purpose in going to Madrile, because of deare bedding
and scarcity of Victuals: and footing the nearest way through Arragon
and Navarre, I crossed at the passage of Sancto Johanne, the Pyrhenei
mountaines: And falling downe by Pau, and the River Ortes, I visited
Gascony and Bearne; and from them, the Cities of Burdeaux and Rochel:
and arriving at Paris, whence I first beganne my Voyage; I also there
ended my first, my painefull, and Pedestriall Pilgrimage. Whence
shortly thereafter visiting Englands Court, I humbly presented to King
James, and Queene Anne of ever blessed memories; and to his present
Majesty King Charles, certayne rare Gifts and notable Relickes, brought
from Jordan and Jerusalem: Where afterward within a yeare, upon some
distaste, I was exposed to my second Peregrination as followeth.