THE SIXTH PART

Now come my swift pac'd feete, to Syons seate,

And faire Jerusalem: heere to relate

Her sacred Monuments, and these sweet places,

Were fil'd with Prophets, and Apostles faces:

Christs Crub at Bethleem, and Maries Cave,

Calvar, and Golgotha, the Holy Grave:

Deepe Adraes valley, Hebrons Patriarch'd Tombe,

Sunke Lazars pit, whence hee rose from earths wombe:

Judeas bounds, and Desarts; that smoaking Lake

Which orient folkes do still for Sodome take.

Thence view'd I Jordan, and his mooddy streames,

Whence I a Rod, did bring to Royall James.

The lumpe falne Jerico, and th' Olive Mount,

With Gethesamaine, where Christ to pray was wont:

The Arabian desarts, then Egypt land

I toyling saw, with Nylus swelling strand:

Where for discourse, the seaventh part shall thee show

What thou mayst learne, and what by sight I know,

Of matchlesse Egypt; and her unmatch'd bounds,

That twice a yeare, in growth of graine abounds.

Jerusalem, is now called by the Turkes, Kuddish, which is in their

Language, a Holy Citie: It was first called Moriah, of Moria, one

of the seaven heads of Syon, where Abraham would have sacrificed

Isaac, Gen. 22. 2. and upon his offering [Jerusalems antiquity.] it

was called Jerusalem, Gen. 14. 18. It was also named Salem, where

Sem, or Melchisedech dwelt: and Jerusalem was also called Jebus,

2. Sam. 24. 16. And it is the place where Salomon was commanded to

build the Temple, 2. Chron: 3. 1. which afterward was termed Hieron

Salomonis, whence came by corruption, that word Hierosolyma. David,

also in his Psalmes gave it divers names. And Jerusalem in the Arabick

tongue is also called Beyt almo kadas: Beyt signifieth the house,

almo kadas, viz. of Saints.

Jerusalem standeth in the same place where old Jerusalem stood, but

not so populous, neither in each respect of breadth, or length so

spacious: for on the South side of Jerusalem, a great part of Mount

Syon is left without, which was aunciently the heart of the old City;

and they have taken on the North side, now both Mount Calvary, and

the holy grave within the walles, which were built by Sultan Selim:

So that thereby the difference of the situation is not so great,

though a part thereof be removed; but a man may boldly affirme, that

the most part of this City is builded on that place, where the first

Jerusalem was: as may truely appeare, and is made manifest by these

mountaines, mentioned in the Scriptures, whereupon Jerusalem is both

situate, and environed about, who reserve their names to this day,

and are still seene, and knowne by the same; [The foure hills of

Jerusalem.] as Mount Syon, Mount Calvary, Mount Moriah, and Mount

Olivet. The forme of the situation of Jerusalem, is now like to a Hart,

or Triangle, the one point whereof looketh East, extending downeward,

almost to the valley of Jehosaphat, which divideth Jerusalem, and Mount

Olivet: The second head or point, bendeth out South-west upon Sion,

bordering neare to the valley of Gehinnon: The third corner lieth on

Mount Moriah, toward the North, and by-West, having its prospect to

the buriall place of the Kings of Israel.

The walles are high and strongly builded with Saxo quadrato,

which adorne Jerusalem more then any thing within it, the Holy

Grave excepted. It is of circuite about three miles, and a halfe

of our measure. As touching the former glory of this City, I will

not meddle withall, nor yet describe, sith the Scriptures so amply

manifest the same; concerning the lamentable destruction of it;

I refer that to the famous Historiographer Josephus, who largely

discourseth of many hundred thousands famished, and put to the sword

within this multipotent City, by [The triumph of Titus.] Vespasian,

and Titus his sonne; being the messengers of Gods just judgements;

which by his computation did amount beyond the number of eleven

hundred thousands. But it is to be understood, they were not all

at one time in Jerusalem; but came up by turnes and times, from the

circumjacent Countries about by thousands, and as they were cut off

so their numbers were aye renewed againe as necessity required.

[The overthrow of Jerusalem.] This City hath beene oft conquered by

enemies: First, by Nabuchodanezzar, the Assirian King: Secondly, by the

Greekes, and Alexander the Great, and also marvellously afflicted by

Antiochus: Thirdly, it was taken in by Pompeius: Fourthly, destroyed

of Vespasian and Titus: Fifthly, it was reedified by Adrian the

Emperour, and wonne againe by Gosdroes, the Persian King: Sixtly,

it was overcome by Homer Califf the successour of Mahomet: Seaventhly,

by the great Souldan of Egypt, and by Godfrey du Bulloine, a Christiane

Prince: Eightly, by Saladine the Caliph of Egypt, and Damascus: Anno

1187. who reserved successively the Signiory thereof for a long time:

And lastly, it was surprised by Sultan Selim, or Solyman the Emperour

of the Turkes, Anno 1517. joyning the holy Land together with Ægypt

to his Empire, who fortified the same, being by Infidels detayned to

this day: and by likelihood shall keepe it to the consummation of the

world, unlesse God of his mercy deale otherwise, then the hopes of

mans weake judgement can expect. Whence truely I may say, that when

fortune would change friendship, she disleagueth conditionall amity,

with the senselesse litargy of foule ingratitude. This City is now

governed by a Sanzack or Subbassaw, being placed there by the Bassaw

of Damascus, whose Deputie he is; the other being chiefe Ruler under

the Grand Signior over all the holy Land and the halfe of Siria. [The

Garrison of Jerusalem.] There is a strong Garrison kept alwayes in

Jerusalem, to withstand the Arabish invasions, consisting of eight

hundred Souldiers, Turkes, and Moores, who are vigilant in the night

and circumspect in the day time, so that none can enter the Towne

without their knowledge; nor yet goe forth without their triall. This

is a memorable note, and worthy of observation, that at that time,

when the Cities of Jerusalem and Antiochia were recoverd from the

Pagans by the meanes of Godfrey of Boulloin; the Pope of Rome that

then was, was called Urbanus; the Patriarke of Jerusalem Heraclius,

and the Romane Emperour Fredericke: [A notable observation.] And at

the same time, and long thereafter, when Jerusalem was reinthralled and

seazed upon by Saladine; the Popes name was Urbanus; the Patriarke of

Jerusalem Heraclius; and the Romane Emperour Fredericke: After Herod

the Idumean, soone to Anti-pater, in whose time Christ was borne:

Archelaus, Agrippa Herod, who imprisoned Peter and James, and was

eaten of vermine, in whose time Christ suffered; and Agrippa minor

(before whom Paul pleaded) the last King of the Jews had raigned,

(being strange Kings) in the last Kings time Jerusalem was overthrowne,

and the Kingdome made a Province of the Romane Empire, Anno 37. After

which desolation, the Jewes were over all the world dispersed; but

afterward in a zealous consideration, were banished from the most

part of the Christian Kingdomes: Out of France they were rejected by

Philip the faire, Anno 1307. out of Spaine by Ferdinand the Catholicke,

1492. out of Portugale by Emanuell, 1497. out of England by Edward

the fifth, 1290. out of Naples and Sicilia by Charles the fifth,

1539. Yet they are found in great numbers in divers parts of Germany,

Poland, and in some Cities of Italy, as Venice and her territories,

Florence and the jurisdiction thereof, the principalities of Parma,

Mantua, Modena, Urbino, and their extending limits; and finally Rome,

(besides her Ecclesiasticall papacy) wherein there are no lesse

than twenty thousand of them: They are also innumerable over all the

Turkish dominions, who so misregard and hate them, for the crucifying

of Christ, that they use to say in detestation of any thing, I would

I might dye a Jew; neither will they permit a Jew to turne Turke,

unlesse he first be baptized: And yet live, where they wil, the most

part of them are the welthiest people in the world, having subtile,

and sublime spirits. Now for the severall Kings and Rulers of Judah

and Israel, beginning at Moyses, the Judges of the Jewes were 16. of

whom Samuel was the last, at which time, the people desired to have

a King like unto other Nations.

[The Jewish Kings.] The Kings of the Jewes were three; Saul, David, and

Salomon; And the Kings of Judah were twenty, Zedechias being last, in

whose time Nabuchodanezzar destroyed Jerusalem. Of the Kings of Israel

there were seaventeene, of whom Oseas was the last, in whose time

the Israelites were carried captives into Assyria, by King Salmanassor.

[Dukes of Jewry.] The Dukes or Governours of Jewry were fifteene,

of which Joannes Hircanius, was the last Governour of Judea, which

discended from the stocke of David. During the government of which

Captaines, after the Babylonian captivity, the Jewish Kingdome was

plagued on both sides, by the Kings of Egypt and Syria: who slaughtered

their people, ransacked their Cities, made havocke of their goods,

and compelled them to eate forbidden flesh, and sacrifice to Idols.

To reforme which enormities Matathias and his five sonnes valiantly

resisted, and overcame the impetuous fury of Antiochus Epiphanes and

his Syrians: Whereupon the Jewes chose Judas surnamed Machabeus for

their Captaine, one of the worlds nine Worthies; who though not of

the line of David, was yet of the tribe of Judah.

The Machabean Princes of Jury were onely foure: Joannes Hircanus the

last, who was slaine by the Parthianes. [The Machabean Princes.] Of

the Machabean Kings of Judah were other foure, of whom Hircanus sonne

to Alexander the tyrant was the last, who being disturbed in his

raigne by Aristobulus his yonger brother, with his sonnes Alexander

and Antiochus, he was firmely established in his throne by Pompey;

& the other carried captives to Rome. But afterward Alexander and

Antiochus escaping, the one by pollicy, the other by favour of Julius

Cæsar, villanously abused Hircanus: The former was slaine by Scipio,

and the latter for his villany was slaine by Marcus Antonius, and

the Kingdome given to a stranger, Herod borne in Ascolon of Idumea,

as I formerly recited, of which strange Kings there were foure.

[Christian Kings of Jerusalem.] The Christian Kings of Palestine,

beginning at Godfrey of Bulloine were nine. Guy of Lysingham being the

last King of Jerusalem, and was surprised by Saladine of Egypt, 1187.

And lastly, or at this present time, the Emperours of the line and

race of Ottoman, are Lords and Kings over Jerusalem, and the crost,

or rather now curst land of Canaan: In whose hands it is faster kept,

then the seventeene Belgian Provinces, remaine totally subject to

the Spanish power.

But to the intent the Reader may the better conceive, and plainely

understand the Monuments I saw within Jerusalem, and the circumjacent

places of Judea; I thought best to prefixe the description thereof,

by the severall dayes as I saw them, not much condemning, neither

absolutely qualifying them, but shall (as it were) neutrally nominate,

and recapitulate these places, as I was informed by the Padre

Guardiano, Gaudentius, Saybantus, a Veronesen borne; whence he,

and every one of them every third yeare are changed and recalled

backe to Christendome, and other new Friers sent in their places:

And especially the information of John Baptista, the Trenchman, who

dwelt and had stayed twenty five yeares in Jerusalem, and from whom

the Friers themselves have their informations: for a stranger that

understandeth not promptly the Italian tongue, which they usually

speake, when they demonstrate these places unto us, hee shall [The

ignorance of Travellers.] conceive ignorantly, dispose his judgement

blind-foldedly, and knowes not how to distinguish the circumstances,

and qualities of the things delivered. As I have knowne some of these

Francks, in my company, simply mistaken, even when the exposition of

every object was largely manifested unto them; and precisely declared

such a thing to have beene there, although perhaps the matter it selfe,

be evanished and transported.

About two of the clock on Palme-sunday after dinner, for all of us

eate, drunke, and lay in the Monastery, each of us paying a Piaster

a day for our dyet, sixe shillings starling, besides all other costs

and charges: The Guardian I say, departed from Jerusalem to Bethphage:

accompanied with twelve Friers, and many other Orientall Christians,

which were come thither to that Festivall time, but I by no meanes

would go, neither would the six Germans, but reposing our selves on

the top or platforme of the Cloyster, we stayed till their returne:

And yet from this place, we saw their back-comming from Bethphage as

they crossed the lower and South side of Olivet; devalling downeward,

toward the valley of Jehosophat to ascend Mount Sion, for the greater

performance of their foolery.

[A superstitious Ceremony.] The rediculous Ceremony which that day

they use, is thus: In an Apish imitation of Christ, at the foresayd

Bethphage, there was an Asse brought to the Guardiano, whereupon hee

mounted (being as it were, the greater Asse, riding upon the lesser)

and came riding to Jerusalem, the people cutting downe Boughs of trees,

and also dispoyling themselves almost to the skin, bestrewed the

way as hee Rode along, crying, Hosanna, Hosanna, the Sonne of David,

blessed is hee that commeth in the name of the Lord: untill they came

to the South gate of Syon, where the Guardian thought to have entred,

Riding through Jerusalem to his monastery, with this shouting convoy

of sixe thousand Orientall Christians, because their Patriarkes have

not that liberty to do so, as this Italian Guardian: Notwithstanding,

the clamour of the people incensed so the Turkish Garrison lying

at this Gate, that they not onely abused the poore Christians in

their ignorant devotion, but they pulled the Guardian also from the

Asses backe, beating him most cruelly, and all the rest of the Friers

and Francke Pilgrimes that were with him: Where at last entring the

Convent, most of them came in groaning, and loaden with blacke and

bloody blowes; whereat I, and the other Protestants, did laugh in

our sleeves to behold their foolish Procession, so substantially

rewarded. At night after Supper, the Guardiano knowing that I was a

Protestant, and also these other Germanes, made an Oration, saying:

You Pilgrims, who refuse to be participant with us in the Sacraments,

nor wil not adhere to our Masses, processions and Ceremonies which

we follow of the Roman Church: I would therfore intreat you (your

liberty being here as much as mine, whereby you may do as you please)

onely to abstaine from scandalling and mocking our Rites and ordinary

Customes, which at this great feast we must performe: To which we

condescended, and promised to give no occasion of offence, seeing

our outward carriage in going along with them to see their customes,

tended no way to hurt the inward disposition of our soules.

In the conclusion of his long Exhortation, hee disclosed this

admonition, saying: All of you Travailers must in [A flattering

beggary.] general be indued with these three worthy gifts, Faith,

Patience, & Mony: Faith, to beleeve these things you shall see here

at, and about Jerusalem: Patience, to indure the apparent injuries

of Infidels; and Money, to discharge all tributes, and costs, which

here (meaning in his owne Monastery) and about this City must be

defrayed. His Sermon he concluded like a Grey Frier, as indeede hee

was: for I am fully perswaded hee little cared for our Faith, and

Patience, providing, that our purses could answere his expectation,

as truly we found the condigne trial thereof afterward: making our

Patience to startle, our Faith to over-top his lyes, and our monies

to bee a slave to his greed; and wee left the last tributary spoyles

of two extortionable flatterers, Avarice, and Ignorance; with the

which our Reverend Guardian was fully invested.

Monday earely, we Pilgrimes went foorth to view the monuments within

the Citty, being accompanied with the Padre Viccario, and a French

Predicatore: the places of any note wee saw were these: first they

shewed us the place where Christ appeared to Mary Magdalen, who sayd:

Touch me not, for I am not yet ascended to my Father, John 20. 15. and

this place by them is supposed to be the Center or middle part of the

World. Next, where Saint James the first Bishop of the Primitive Church

was beheaded: then the House of Saint Thomas, but that is doubtful

(say they) because it is not yet confirmed by the Papall Authority:

From thence they brought us to the place where Annas one of the High

Priests dwelt, and also the Tree to the which our Saviour was bound,

whiles Annas was making himselfe ready to leade him to Caiphas; but

that I wil not beleeve, for that Tree groweth yet, being an Olive

Tree. They shewed us also the house where Saint Peter was imprisoned,

when his fetters were shaken off his legges, and the Prison doores

cast open, and hee relieved: And where Zebedeus the Father of James

and John dwelt, which are nothing but a lumpe of Ruines.

[Caiphas Lodging.] Thence wee came to the decayed lodging of Caiphas,

without the Citty, uppon the mount Syon, whereupon there is a Chappell

builded, and at the entry of that little Domo, we saw the stone, on

which the Cocke crew, when Peter denied Christ. Within the same place

is the stone that was rolled to the Sepulcher doore of our Saviour,

being now made an Altar to the Abasines. These Abasines, are naturally

borne blacke, and of them silly Religious men, who stay at Jerusalem,

in two places, to wit, heere at Caiphas House, on mount Syon, and the

other Convent on mount Moriah, where Abraham would have sacrificed

Isaac: They weare on their heads flat round Caps of a blackish colour,

and on their bodies long gownes of white Dimmety, or linnen cloath,

representing Ephods: the condition of themselves being more devoute,

than understanding the true grounds or their devotion, blind zeale

and ignorance overswaying their best light of knowledge. They being

a kinde of people, which came from Prester Jehans dominions.

And within that Chappel they shewed us a narrow pit, wherein (say

they) Christ was incarcerat, the night before he was brought to

the Judgement Hall. Upon the same side of Syon, we saw the place,

where Christ did institute the Sacraments: and not far hence, a

decayed House, where (say they) the Holy-Ghost discended upon the

Apostles, and also the Sepultures of David, and his sonne Salomon:

Over the which, there is a Moskie, wherein no Christian may enter,

to see these monuments. For the Turkes doe great Reverence, to most

of all the ancient Prophets of the old Testament.

From thence we returned, and entred in via dolorosa, the dolorous way,

by which our Lord and Savior passed, when he went to be crucified,

carrying the Crosse upon his Backe: And at the end of the same streete

(say they) the Souldiers met Simon of Cyrene, and compelled him to

helpe Christ, to beare his Crosse when hee fainted. [Pilats judgement

Hall.] Pilats Judgment Hall, is altogether ruinated, having but onely

betweene the two sides of the Lane, an olde Arch of stone, under the

which I passed, standing ful in the high Way: Here they shewed us

the place, where Christ first tooke up his Crosse, and on the top of

that Arche, wee saw that place called Gabbatha, where Jesus stood,

when Pilat sayd to the Jewes, Ecce homo.

A little below this, they brought us to the Church of Saint Anna,

where (say they) the Virgin Mary was borne. And going downe another

narrow Lane, they poynted in to a House, and sayd, heere Dives the

rich Glutton dwelt, who would not give to Lazarus the Crummes of Bread

that fel from his Table: this I suspend, amongst many other things,

for all hold it to bee a Parable, and not a History: And although it

were a History, who can demonstrate the particular place, Jerusalem

having beene so often transformed by alterations.

This I must needes say, with such leying wonders, these flattering

Friers, bring Strangers into a wonderful admiration, and although I

rehearse all I saw there, yet I will not beleeve all, onely publishing

them as things indifferent, some whereof are frivolous, and others

somewhat more credible: But as I sayd before, I will make no (or very

small) distinction in the Relation.

From thence we came without the Easterne gate, (standing on a low

Banke, called the daughter of Syon, that over-toppeth the valley

of Jehosophat,) unto an immoveable stone, upon the which they sayd

St. Stephen was stoned to death, the first Martyr of the Christian

faith; and the faithfull fore-runner of many noble followers. As

we returned to our owne Convent, they brought us to mount Moriah,

and shewed us the place where [Abrahams faith.] Abraham offered up

Isaac, which is in the custody of Nigroes or Æthiopians: to whom each

of us payed ten Madins of Brasse, the common coine of Jerusalem,

for our in going to that place. And the other monastery that these

Abasines detaine, is on mount Sinay in the Desarts, where the body of

S. Katherine lyeth buried, which is richly maintained, and strongly

kept by the Æthiopian Emperor: There are 200. Religious Abasines in

it, and 100. souldiers to guard them from the incursions of Arabs,

who continually molest them, because [Mount Sinay.] mount Sinay

standeth in midst of that desolate Arabian wildernesse, and far

from any civill or inhabited place; being distant from Jerusalem

about 70. English miles. Next they shewed us the place where Jesus

sayd, Daughters of Jerusalem, mourne not for me, &c. And neere unto

this, where the virgin Mary fell into an agony, when Jesus passed

by carrying his Crosse: Also, not farre hence, we beheld the place,

where (as they say) Jesus said to his mother, woman, behold thy Sonne,

and to S. John behold thy mother.

Ascending more upward, they shewed us the house of Veronica Sancta,

and said, that our Saviour going by her doore, all in a sweat to Mount

Calvary, she brought him a napkin to wipe his face; which he received,

and gave it to her againe: in which (say they) the print of his face

remaineth to this day, and is to be seene at Rome. It is also sayd to

be in a Towne in Spaine, and another of them at Palermo in Sicilia:

wherefore I beleeve the one, as well as the rest.

So out of one, if Papists can make three

By it, they would denote heavens Deitie:

But O! not so, these three revolv'd in one,

Points forth the Pope, from him his tripled Crowne

He weav'd these Napkins, leying reard his seat,

For which this number, makes his number great.

[The Temple of Solomon thrice builded & destroyed.] As concerning

the Temple of the most high, built by Salomon (the description of

which edifice yee may read in the 3. of Kings) it was destroyed

by Nabuchodanezzar, at the taking of Jerusalem, Anno Mundi,

4450. Secondly, it was rebuilded againe by the commandement of

Cyrus King of Persia, after the Jewes returned from the Captivity

of Babylon; but not answerable to the state and magnificence of the

former: For besides the poverty & smalnesse of it, there wanted five

things which were in the other: First, the Arke of the Covenant:

Secondly, the pot of Manna: thirdly, the rod of Aaron: Fourthly,

the two tables of the Law, written by the finger of God: And fifthly,

the fire of the Sacrifice, which came downe from Heaven, which were

the Symboles and badges of Gods favour and mercy showne to them and

their fore-fathers in his covenant of Love.

This Temple afterward growing in decay, Herod the great, (that killed

the young Infants for Christs sake, who suffered for him, before he

suffered for them) built another much inferiour to the first, and

superiour to the second. And although some Authors would have him

but to repaire the second Temple, yet it is most certaine, he did

even from the foundation raise its greatest beauty and glory. For

this Herod the Ascolonite, was an Edomit stranger, or Idumean,

who having gotten the Kingdome contrary to the Law of Moses; and

created King of Jewry by Octavius Augustus; and knowing these people

to be offended therewithall, to procure their favour did [Herod the

Idumeans Temple.] build to them a third Temple: This was it, in which

our Saviour, and his Apostles did daily Preach; and was set on fire

by Titus the tenth day of August, on which day likewise the first

Temple, was burnt by Nabuchodanezzar. And lastly there is another

great Temple builded in the [Selim Solimans Temple.] same place, by

Sultan, Selim Soliman, reserved by Turkes, and highly regarded, for

that respect they carry to Salomon; neare the which, or within whose

courts no Christian may enter under the paine of loosing his head.

This present Temple hath two incircling Courts invironed with high

wals, having two enteries: In the inner Court standeth the Temple,

that is composed of five circling and large Rotundoes, rising high

and incorporate from the ground with round tops: The outward fabrick

whereof we cannot see, save on Mount Olivet, which is over against

the Citie, and twice as high as Mount Sion.

These are all the monuments which in one day, I saw within Jerusalem;

but as for Mount Calvary, and the Holy Grave, I saw them afterward,

which in their owne place shall be orderly touched. As we were

spending that day in these sights, the Guardian had prepared one

hundred souldiers, sixty horse-men, and forty foot-men, to take

with him the day following, for his conduction to Jordan, and the

mountaine in the Wildernesse where Christ fasted; which is his

usuall custome once every yeare betweene Palme-sunday and Easter,

returning againe before Good-friday. These places cannot be viewed,

save onely at that time; neither may a Pilgrime goe along with the

souldiers, unlesse he give the value of seven Crownes or Piasters (as

a propyne) unto the Lieutenant, being forty two shillings starling:

and if the Traveller will not goe to that charge, he may stay there

till their returne, which I would not wish him to doe, if possibly he

may spare the money, for the sight of Sodome, and Jordans sake. That

same night after supper, the Guardian demanded of us Travellers,

if we would goe with him to see these memorable, & singular things,

upon the former condition: To whom we answered, in a generall consent,

we would, and so payed our moneyes.

[A voyage to Jordan.] Earely upon Tuesday morning all the Friers

and Pilgrimes being mounted on Mules save onely pedestriall I, and

two Mules loaden with our provision of victuals; we departed from

the City, about our nine of the clocke in the forenoone, keeping our

faces South-east, and leaving Bethphage and Bithania on our left hand,

wee had pleasant travelling for seaven miles; but in the afternoone wee

entred in a barren and desart Countrey till Sun-setting: where at last

wee arrived at a standing Well, and there refreshing our selves and

the beasts, wee reposed till two houres within night. After that the

Captaine had cried Catethlanga, that is, march away: we set forward,

being well guarded round about with our keepers, because we entred

into a dangerous way, and a most desolate and fabulous soile.

In all this deformed Countrey, wee saw neyther house, nor Village,

for it is altogether desartuous, and inhabited onely by wilde Beasts,

and naked Arabians. Before wee came neere to Sodom and Gomorrah, by

seaven miles: (for so wee behooved to passe by the East end of it,

before wee could arrive at that place of Jordan which wee intended)

we I say incountred with such deep sandy ground, that the Mulets were

not able to carry our Company through: Whereupon they all dismounted,

wrestling, and wading above the middle part of their bodies, and

sometimes falling in over their heads, they were in great danger of

perishing, although the robustnesse of my body carried mee through

on my feete, relieving also divers times some of these Friers and

Pilgrimes, that were almost choaked and over-whelmed with Sand, but

not for lacke of Wine. Even in the middest of this turmoyling paine,

(the night being darke) the unwelcomed Arabs, environed, [A fearefull

danger.] and invaded us with a storme of Arrowes, which they sent

from the tops of little hard hils, whereupon they stood, for knowing

the advantage of the ground: they tooke opportunity to give the more

feareful assaults: yet they prevailed nothing (although they wounded

some of our Souldiers) such was the resolute Courage of our valourous

Defendants. True it is, that in all my travailes I was never so sore

fatigated, nor more fearefully indangered, as I was that night.

A little after midnight, these Savages leaving us, and wee leaving our

troublesome way, we accoasted the Lake of Sodome, and marched along the

marine shoare above nine miles before we came to Jordan. This Lake is

called Lacus Asphaltites, it yeeldeth a kinde of slime, named Bitumen

Asphaltum; the which bituminous savour no living thing can indure. And

now Mare mortuum, a sea because it is salt, and mortuum or dead, for

that no living thing breedes therein: and more properly for this cause

called the dead Sea, because of it selfe it is unmoveable, such is the

Leprosie and stability of the water. It is also called so, because if

a Bird flye over it, shee presently falleth downe therein dead: And

as Salomon reporteth of it, Wisdom. 10. 7. it smoaketh continually:

from whence proceedeth filthy Vapours, which deforme the fields,

lying about for certaine miles, as it were blasted, scorched, and made

utterly barren: this smoake I take onely to be but the exhalation of

Jordan: For this River falling into it, and there ending his course,

the two contrary natures cannot agree; the one being a filthy puddle,

and the other a pure water, as I shall more approbably Record.

[The length of Sodoms Lake.] This Lake is foure score miles in length,

and according to its intervalling Circuite, sometimes two, three,

foure, or five miles in breadth: yet the body thereof, bending

directly South-west; keepeth a glassie course, till it salute the

austiere conspicuosity of the sabulous and stony Desarts: beeing

compassed with the Rockes of Arabia Petrea on the South: On the

North, with the sandy hils of the Wildernesse of Judea: on the West,

with the steepy mountaines of Arabia deserta: and on the East, with

the plaine of Jericho. How commeth it to passe therefore, that the

fresh running flood of Jordan, falling evermore into this bounded

Sea, that the Lake it selfe, never diminisheth, nor increaseth, but

alwayes standeth at one fulnesse: neyther hath it any issuing forth,

nor reboundeth backewards on the plaine of Jericho, which is one

of the greatest wonders in the World. Wherefore, as I have sayd, it

must needes eyther exhale to the Clouds, or otherwise runne downe to

Hell: for if it ranne under the Rockes, and so burst in the Desarts,

it would soone bee knowne; but in all the bounds of Arabia Deserta,

which betwixt this Lake and the Red Sea, extend to 300. miles; there

is no such matter, as Brooke, or strand, much lesse a River, neyther

hath it any intercourse with the Ocean, unlesse it runne through

some secret passage of the earth under the Wildernesse, unto the

Red sea. And that is doubtfull, although it may appeare probable; in

regard of Nilus, that runneth a hundred miles under the ground in the

exterior Æthiopia: and divers other Rivers also after the same manner,

obscuring themselves under Rockes, mountaynes, and planures, for many

miles: which particulars, by my owne experience, I could denote.

[The doubtfulnes of Jordans ending.] But as for this River, the

question may arise, whether ran it during the time of these five

Citties of the plaine, now overwhelmed with Water; or where was the

issue thereof. To this I answere, was not the hand of the Almighty,

that rained downe from the Heavens fire and Brimstone to consume them,

able also, to drowne their situations and intervalling plaines with

water: Yes and doubtlesse yes, and the course of the River keeping

still its former condition: And for moderne examples, how many

Citties, Mansions, and Stations, have beene sommerssed with water:

nay innumerable, and so remayning to this day, place, beauty, and

being, all defaced: As now in Scotland neere to Falkirk, rests the

last and latest memory of such woefull accidents, and superabounding

disgorgings.

It breedeth nor reserveth no kinde of fishes; and if by the swelling

of Jordan, any fishes be carried to it, they immediatly dye. Although

Josephus witnesseth, that in his time, there was an Apple grew

uppon the Bankes thereof, like to the colour or gold, and within was

rotten, and would consume to powder; yet I affirme now the contrary:

For there is not such a thing (whatsoever hath beene in his dayes)

as eyther Trees, or Bushes, grow neere to Sodome by three miles:

such is the consumation of that pestiferous Gulfe.

[Wrong informations made false.] Divers Authors have reported, that

nothing will sinke into it, of any reasonable weight, as dead men, or

Carkasses of Beasts: but by experience I approve the contrary: For it

beareth nothing at all; yea, not the weight of a Feather, nor the pile

of withered Grasse, but it will sinke therein, with the which my hands

made sundry trials; and dare approove it to be of trueth, in spight

of the leying world, and all doting varieties of auncient Relations.

The water it selfe, is of a blackish colour, and at sometimes in

the yeare, there are terrible shapes, and showes of terrour in it,

as I was informed at Jericho, by the Arabian inhabitants there,

which is the neerest Towne that bordereth thereupon.

This contagious and pestilentious Lake of Sodome, resembleth much

(as may be supposed) that infernall gulfe of Hell: but in my opinion,

I hold it to be the Purgatory of Papists: for they say Limbus Patrum,

is neere, or in the second roome to Hell, which I thinke must needs

be Sodome: for although it be not Hell it selfe, yet I am perswaded,

it is a second Hell, having (as some report) no bottome. Wherefore I

conclude thus, that since Papists will have a Purgatory, I absolutely

affirme, it must be such a Purgatory, as the purging of Sodome and

Gomorra, which was with fire and Brimstone, to their destruction.

About the breach of day on Wednesday morning, we past by the ruines

of an old house; where (as they say) S. John the Baptist remained,

when he baptized those that came from Jerusalem, and other Regions

about, which is but the flight of an arrow from Jordan.

Approaching to the banke-side, we dismounted, and [The River

Jordan.] uncloathed our selves, going in naked to the River, we washed

us to refresh our bodies; our Souldiers lying a little off from us, as

pledges of our lives, and their owne safegards, stayed as Bulwarks for

our protection, & a connivall obligation for two repugnant defences:

Time presenting the awfull opportunity of both occasions. In this

place, as the Guardian said, was Christ baptized of S. John, when

the Holy Ghost came downe in a bodily shape, like a Dove upon him,

and there was a voyce from Heaven, saying: Thou art my beloved Sonne,

in Thee I am well pleased. I saw also an apparant like testimony, of

a quadrangled stone, lying on the banke side; whereupon are ingraven

letters, of Hebrew, Greeke, Latine, testifying the same thing:

and may be also conjectured, in regard of the auncient Habitacle,

of that precursor, which is not far from thence.

This river Jordan beginneth in Mount Libanus, of two fountaines,

Jore, and Dan, which runne separated, till they come to the lake

Maronah; & hence it maketh one body, keeping his course through the

lake Genasereth, endeth in Sodome. The river Tibris at Rome, & Jordan

are not much different in quantity and colour; and not unlike other

in their courses: For Jordan falleth in the old Gomorah, and Tibris

runneth through the new Sodome; A history of such evidence, as travell

taught me by experience: For it is the Priests confluence, which

breeds in the Italians insolence: If I erre, I will beg indulgence,

of the Popes aureat magnificence.

The rivers themselves are both of a muddy colour, and their quantity

not far different from other, which Jordan for greatnesse retaineth,

and the length of their courses are much semblable to other. The water

of Jordan hath beene transported to Venice in barrels, for that purity

it hath; which will reserve unspoiled, both moneths and yeares, and

the longer it is kept, it is the more fresher; and to drinke it, is

an excellent remedy for the fever quartan or quotidian, being neare

in vertue to the Wine of Libanon.

Considering the auncient reputation of this famous river, and the

rare sight of such an unfrequented place, [A Turpentine rod brought

from Jordan and given to King James.] I climbed up to the top of a

Turpentine tree, which grew within the limited flood, a little above

where I left my company even naked, as I came from swimming, and

cut downe a faire hunting rod of the heavy and sad Turpentine tree,

being three yards long, wondrous straight, full of small knots, and

of a yellowish colour; which afterward, with great paines, I brought

to England, and did present it (as the rarest gemme of a Pilgrimes

treasure) to his Majesty. But I remember in the choosing thereof

an unexpected accident fell out: For I being sequestrat from the

sight of the company, upon this solitary tree, with broad obscuring

leaves, the Friers and Souldiers removed; keeping their course towards

Jericho: but within two furlongs from Jordan, they were beset with the

former Nocturnall enemies, who assailed them with a hard conflict:

For I hearing the Harquebuse go off, was straight in admiration,

and looking downe to the place where I left my associates, they were

gone; so bending my eyes a little further in the Plaine, I saw them

at a martiall combate: which sight gave me suddenly, the threatning

of despaire: not knowing whether to stay intrenched, within the

circundating leaves, to approve the events of my auspicuous fortunes:

Or in prosecuting a reliefe, to be participant of their doubtfull

deliverance. In the end pondering, I could hardly, or never escape

their hands, either there, or by the way going up to Jerusalem,

leapt downe from the tree, leaving my Turkish cloathes lying upon

the ground, tooke onely in my hand the rod & Shasse which I wore on

my head; and ranne starke naked above a quarter of a mile amongst

thistles, and sharpe pointed grasse, which pittifully be pricked the

soles of my feete, but the feare of death for the present, expel'd

the griefe of that unlooked for paine. Approaching on the safe side

of my company, one of our Souldiers broke forth on horsebacke, being

determined to kill mee for my staying behinde: Yea, and three times

stroke at me with his halfe-pike; but his horse being at his speed,

I prevented his cruelty, first by falling downe, next by running in

amongst the thickest of the Pilgrimes, recovering the Guardians face,

which when the Guardian espied, and saw my naked body, hee presently

pulled off his gray gowne, and threw it to me, whereby I might hide the

secrets of nature: By which meanes, (in the space of an [The Pilgrimes

three severall habits in halfe a houre.] houre) I was cloathed three

manner of wayes: First, like a Turke: Secondly, like a wild Arabian:

And thirdly, like a grey Frier, which was a barbarous, a savage,

and a religious habit.

The Captaine at last entering in parley with the Arabs, by some

contributing promises did mitigate their fury, for their compounded

acknowledgement was to be sent them from Jerusalem: Whereupon, wee

marching toward Jericho, reposed our selves under a cooling shade,

and dined there on the Wine and provision carryed with us.

After Dinner wee arose, and went to the House of Zacheus: (this was hee

who sate uppon a Tree to see our Saviour as he passed by,) the Wals

whereof stand to this day, the tecture being onely demolished. This

new Jericho is now a poore Village onely of nine dwelling houses,

inhabited by a kinde of Arabs (which are in subjection under the

Governour of Jerusalem,) but I saw many ruinous lumpes of the Wals,

and demolishings of the old Towne, which is a little from this distant,

about a short quarter of a mile. [Two sorts of rare fruit.] Here I

saw two most dainty kinde of fruites, the one was a little lesser

then an Apple, but more round: whose colour was like gold without,

and within it was White as Snow, and sweete like Suger. I would gladly

have eaten of them; but the Friers forbade me, saying; they were the

onely pest of Death unto a stranger. The other Apple was like to a

greene Lemmon, long, and full of knots, of a reddish colour, like

to a Mellone; being both delicate and wholesome, of which wee did

eate to satisfie the naturall appetite, and so did all our Souldiers

eate of them excessively: their Trees growing high and greene by

a Brooke side of delicate Water that runneth from the fountaine of

Elizeus. From Jericho we set forward, in the way of the Wildernesse;

our determination being such, as to view the mountaine whereon Christ

fasted forty dayes: Where arrived, being late, we durst not go up til

morning. [Elizeus Fountaine.] Wherefore we pitched that night by the

fountayne of Elizeus; the Water of which, was of old, naturally bitter,

but by the prayers of that divine Prophet, was restored to a sweet

tast: It is good in digestion, and harmelesse for health: and it is the

lightest water the earth yeelds: having on the morrow filled a Boares

skin of it, to carry with me to the mountaine; I found it so light,

that I had no weight nor paine in the bearing of it on my shoulders:

notwithstanding, the way of it selfe was fastidious. This mountain is

called Quarantanam, or Quaranto, being of height, by the computation

of my painefull experience, above sixe miles, and groweth from the

bottome still smaller and smaller, till that the top is covered with

a little Chappell, not unlike to the proportion of a Pyramede.

There is no way to ascend upon this Hill, save one, which hath

beene hewen out of the Rocke, by the industry of men, experimented

in Masonry; (which was done at the cost of Queene Helen) going up

by the Degrees of forty five turnes. In all our Company there were

onely one Frier, foure Germanes, and I, that durst attempt to climbe

the mountaine.

Thursday earely at the breach of day, we sixe made us for the

mountaine, leaving our Souldiers to guard the passage below,

least some stragling Arabs should have stolne after us for our

Destruction. Where after diverse turnings, traversings, and narrow foot

passages having come with great difficulty to the top, we entred first

into a umbragious Cave, joyning to, and under the Chappell, [Where

Christ fasted forty dayes.] where the Frier told us, that in this

place Christ did fast forty dayes: and here it was, where he rebuked

Sathan. The Chappel which covereth the top of this high and steepy

Rocke is covered, and also beautified, with an old Altar: betweene

the outward sides whereof, and the craggy face of this mountaine, two

men may only go side to side: Here we dined and refresht our selves

with water that I carried on my backe hither: From which place we saw

the most part of all the Holy Land, except the North parts of Judea,

Palestine, and Phenicia, and a great way in the two Arabiaes, Petrea,

and Deserta, and all the length of Jordan, even from Sodome to Maronah.

At last in our Returne and fearefull discending, there would none of

us goe downe formost: For although the Frier led us freely upwards,

yet first downeward for his life hee durst not goe: and that because

at the narrow end of every turning, there was aye betweene the

upper and the lower passage, about my height, and some where twice

my height, of the flat face of the Rocke, whereon there was nothing

but dimples and holes to receive our feete, which in discending was

perillous. [Dreadfull danger in descending the Quarantatam.] Now

the greatest danger, at every turne, was in the downe going of the

formost, who was to receive, them all, one by one, and foote their

feet in the shallow dimples: of which if any of them had missed,

his sliding downe had miscarried them both over the Rocke.

Now for the noble Germanes sake, two of whom were great Barens, Signior

Strowse, and Signior Crushen, and borne Vassals to the Marquesse of

Hanspauch, I resolved to imbrace the danger: Where downe I went,

receiving every one of them, at every turne, first leading their

feete by my hands, and then by inveloping them with mine armes: Well,

having past halfe way downewards, wee came to the most scurrile and

timorous Discent of the whole passage, where with much difficulty,

I set safe the foure Germanes in our narrow Rode hewen out of the

craggy Hill; and then was to receive the Frier: Whence hee comming

downe from above, with his Belly and face to the Rocke, holding his

hands grumbling above, the fellow fell on trembling; and as I was

placing his feete in the holes, distempred feare brought him downe upon

me with a rushling hurle: Whereuppon straight I mainly closed with

my left arme his body fast to the Rocke, keeping strongly my Right

shoulder to the same place: For I could not have saved my selfe, and

letting him fall, but hee would have caught mee headlong with him,

over the Rocke: And yet the Germanes cryed still to me, Lascia ti

quel furfanto cascar alla fondo con il Diavolo, e salva caro fratello

la vita vostra, viz. Let that Villaine fall to the ground with the

Divell, and save, O deare brother, your owne life: But I neyther would

nor durst: at last his feare, by my incouragement having left him,

I suffered him to slide softly downe betweene my arme and the Rocke,

to the solid path: Where by and by, hee fell downe uppon his knees,

and gave mee a thousand Blessings, vowing for this, he would doe me

a great good deede before I left Jerusalem.

At last towards the afternoone, wee safely arrived at the foote of

the Mountayne, and having saluted the Guardian, and all the Rest,

who then were ready to take journey, the Frier told his Reverence how

I had saved his life: Whereupon the Guardian, and the other Friers,

did imbrace me kindly in their Armes, giving me many earnest and

loving thankes.

And now the Souldiers and wee being advanced in our Way, as wee

returned to Jerusalem, wee marched by an [S. Jeromes Abbey.] olde

Ruinous Abbey, where (say they) Saint Jerome dwelt, and was fed there

by wilde Lyons: Having travailed sore and hard that afternoone, wee

arrived at Jerusalem an houre within night, for the Gate was kept open

a purpose for us and our Guard: and entring our Monastery, wee supped,

and rested our selves till midnight; having marched that halfe Day,

more as 34. miles. A little before midnight, the Guardian and the

Friers, were making themselves ready to goe with us to the Church

of the Holy Sepulcher, called Sancto Salvatore; where wee were to

stay Good-friday and Satturday, and Easter-Sunday till mid-night:

They tooke their Cooke with them also to dresse our Dyet, carrying

Wine, Bread, Fishes, and Fruites hither in abundance. Meane while,

a Jew, the Trench-man of the Turkies Sanzacke, came to the Monastery,

and received from every one of us Pilgrimes, first two Chickens of

Gold, for our severall heads, and entrey at Jerusalem: and then nine

Chickens a peece for our in going to the Holy Grave; and a Chicken

of golde a man, to himselfe the Jew, as beeing due to his place.

[Our tributs for the Holy Grave.] Thus was there twelve Chickens

from each of us dispatched for the Turke: And last one, and all of

us, behoved to give to the Guardian two Chickens also for the Waxe

Candles and fooleries hee was to spend, in their idle and superstitious

Ceremonies, these three aforesayd nights, which amounted in all to

every one of us, to foureteene Chickens of gold, sixe pounds sixe

shillings starling. So that in the whole from the sixe Germanes,

foure French men, and nine Commercing Franks in Cyprus and Syria,

Venetians, and Ragusans, and from my selfe, the summe arose for this

nights labour to a hundred and twenty sixe pounds starling.

This done, and at full mid-night wee came to the Church where wee

found twelve Venerable like Turkes, ready to receive us, sitting in

the Porch without the Doore; who foorthwith opened at randone the two

great Brazen halfes of the Doore, and received us very respectively:

We being within the doore made fast, and the Turkes returned to the

Castle, the first place of any note we saw, was the place of Unction,

which is a foure squared stone; inclosed about with an yron Reuele, on

which (say they) the dead body of our Saviour lay, and was imbalmed;

after hee was taken from the Crosse, whiles Joseph of Arimathea,

was preparing that new Sepulcher for him wherein never man lay: from

thence we came to the holy Grave. Leaving Mount Calvary on our right

hand toward the East end of the Church; for they are both contained

within this glorious edifice.

[The Holy Grave.] The Holy Grave is covered with a little Chappell,

standing within a round Quiere, in the west ende of the Church:

It hath two low and narrow entries: As we entred the first doore,

three after three, and our shoes cast off, for these two roomes are

wondrous little, the Guardiano fell downe, ingenochiato, and kissed

a stone, whereupon (he sayd) the Angell stood, when Mary Magdalen

came to the Sepulchre, to know if Christ was risen, on the third

day as he promised: And within the entry of the second doore, we

saw the place where Christ our Messias was buried, and prostrating

our selves in great humility, every man according to his Religion,

offered up his prayers to God.

The Sepulchre it selfe, is eight foote and a halfe in length, and

advanced about three foote in height from the ground, and three

foote five inches broad, being covered with a faire Marble stone of

white colour.

In this Chappell, and about it, I meane without the utter sides of it,

and the inward incirclings of the compassing Quiere, there are alwayes

burning above fifty Lampes of oyle, maintained by Christian Princes,

who stand most of them within incircling bandes of pure Gold, which

is exceeding sumptuous, having the names of those, who sent or gave

them, ingraven upon the upper edges of the round circles: each of

them having three degrees, and each degree depending upon another,

with supporters of pure Gold, rich and glorious. The fairest whereof

was sent thither by King John of England, whereon I saw his Name,

his Title, and crowne curiously indented, I demanded of the Guardiano

if any part of the Tombe was here yet extant, who replied, there was;

but because (said he) Christians resorting thither, being devoutly

moved with affection to the place, carried away a good part thereof,

which caused S. Helen inclose it under this stone; whereby some relicts

of it should alwaies remaine. I make no doubt but that same place is

Golgotha, where the holy Grave was, as may appeare by the distance,

betweene Mount Calvary and this sacred Monument; which extendeth to

forty of my pases: [The glorious Chappell of the Holy Grave.] This

Chappell is outwardly decored, with 15. couple of Marble Pillars,

and of 22. foote high; and above the upper coverture of the same

Chappell, there is a little sixe-angled Turret made of Cedar wood,

covered with Lead, and beautified with sixe small Columnes of the

same tree. The Chappell it selfe standeth in a demicircle or halfe

Moone, having the little doore or entry looking East: to the great

body of the Church, and to Mount Calvary, being opposite to many

other venerable monuments of memorable majesties.

The forme of the Quiere wherein it standeth, is like unto that

auncient Rotundo in Rome, but a great deale higher and larger,

having two gorgeous Galleries; one above another, and adorned with

magnificent Columnes being open at the top, with a large round;

which yeeldeth to the heavens the prospect of that most sacred place.

In which second Gallery we strangers reposed all these three nights we

remained there: whence we had the full prospect of all the spacious

Church, and all the Orientall people were there at this great feast

of Easter day, being about 6000. persons: from this curious carved

Chappell we returned through the Church to Mount Calvary; To which

we ascended by twenty one steps, eighteene of them were of Marble,

and three of Cedar-wood: where, [The beauty of Mount Calvary.] when

we came I saw a most glorious & magnifick roome, whose covert was

supported all about with rich columnes of the Porphyre stone, and

the oversilings loaden with Mosaick worke, & overgilded with gold,

the floore being curiously indented with intermingled Alabaster and

black shining Parangone: On my left hand I saw a platformd rocke,

all covered with thicke and ingraven boords of silver; and in it a

hole of a cubits deepe, in which (say they) the Crosse stood whereon

our Saviour was crucified: And on every side thereof a hole for the

good & bad theeves, were then put to death with him. Discending from

Mount Calvarie, we came to the Tombe of Godfrey du Bulloine, who was

the first proclaimed Christian King of Jerusalem, and refused to be

crowned there, saying; It was not decent, the Servants head should

be crowned with gold, where the Maisters head had beene crowned with

thornes; having this Inscription ingraven on the one side:

[Two famous Sepulchers.] Hic jacet inclytus Godfridus de Bullion,

quitotam hanc terram acquisivit cultui divino, cujus anima requiescat

in pace.

And over against it, is the Tombe of King Baldwine his brother,

which hath these Verses in golden Letters curiously indented.

Rex Baldevinus, Judas alter Machabeus

Spes patriæ, Vigor Ecclesiæ, Virtus, utriusque;

Quem formidabant, cui dona, tributa ferebant.

Cæsar, Ægypti Dan, ac homicida Damascus;

Proh dolor! in modico clauditur hoc Tumulo.

The other things within the Church they shewed us, were these, a

Marble Pillar, whereunto (say they) our Saviour was bound, when he

was whipped, and scourged for our sakes: the place in a low Celler,

about fourteene stone degrees under the ground, where the Crosse was

hid [Where Christ was nailed to the Crosse.] by the Jewes, and found

againe by S. Helen: the place where Christ was crowned with thornes,

which is reserved by the Abasines, and where the Souldiers cast lots

for his Garment; the place where he was imprisoned, whiles they were

making of his Crosse, and where the Crosse, being laid along upon

the ground, our Saviour was nailed fast to it; the Rocke, which

(as they say) rent at his crucifying, which is more likely to be

done with hammers, and set one peece a foote from another, for the

slit lookes, as if it had beene cleft with wedges and beetles. And

yet the sacred Scriptures say that it was not a Rocke, but the Temple

that did rent in two from the bottome to the top, wherein these silly

soule-sunke Friers are meerely blinded, understanding no more than

leying traditions; perfiting this their nationall Proverb;

Con arte, et con inganno, ci vivono medzo l' anno

Con inganno et con arte, ci vivona l' altera parte.

With guile and craft, they live the one halfe yeare

With craft and guile, the other halfe as cleare.

And lastly, they take upon them below Calvary to shew us where the head

of Adam was buried. These and many other things, are so doubtfull,

that I doe not register them for trueth (I meane in demonstrating

the particular places) but onely relates them as I was informed.

There are seven sorts of Nations, different in Religion, and language,

who continually (induring life) remaine within this Church, having

incloystered lodgings joyning to the walls thereof: their victuals

are brought dayly to them by their familiars, receiving the same at

a great hole in the Church-doore; for the Turkes seldome open the

entry unlesse it be when Pilgrimes come, save one houres space onely

every Saturday in the afternoone, and at some extraordinary Festivall

daies: and yet it doth not stand open then, but onely opened to let

strangers in and shut againe: [Seven religious Families.] For this

purpose each family have a Bell fastened at their lodging, with

a string reaching from thence to the Church doore, the end whereof

hangeth outwardly, By the which commodity, each furnisher ringing the

Bell, giveth warning to his friends, to come receive their necessars,

for through the body of the Church they must come to the porch-doore,

and returne from it, to the cloyster.

The number of those, who are tied to this austere life, are about

three hundred and fifty persons, being Italians, Greekes, Armenians,

Æthiopians, Jacobines, a sort of circumcised Christians, Nestorians,

and Chelfaines of Mesopotamia.

The day before the Resurrection, about the houre of mid-night,

the whole Sects and sorts of Christians Orientall (that were come

thither in Pilgrimage, and dwelt at Jerusalem) convened together,

which were about the number of sixe thousand men, women, and children:

for being separated by the Patriarkes in two companies, they compassed

the Chappell of the Holy Grave nine times; holding in their hands

burning Candles, made in the beginning pittifull, and lamentable

regreetings, but in the ending, there were touking of kettle-drummes,

sounding of horne-trumpets, and other instruments, dauncing, leaping,

and running about the Sepulcher, with an intollerable tumult, as if

they had beene all mad, or distracted of their wits.

Thus is the prograce of their procession performed in meere

simplicitie, wanting civilitie, and government. But the Turkes have

a care of that; for in the middest of all this hurley burley, they

runne amongst them with long Rods, correcting their misbehaviour with

cruell stroakes: and so these slavish people, even at the height of

their Ceremonious devotion are strangely abused.

But our Procession begun before theirs, and with a greater regard,

because of our tributes: The Turkes meane while guarding us, not

suffering the other Christians to be participant in the singular

dottage of the [An abhominable Idolatry.] Romish folly, being after

this manner: First the Guardian, and his Friers brought forth of

a Sacrastia, allotted for the same purpose, the wodden Portracture

of a dead Corpes, representing our Saviour, having the resemblance

of five bloody Wounds, the whole body of which Image, was covered

with a Cambricke vale: Where having therewith thrice compassed the

Chappell of the Holy Grave, it was carried to mount Calvary, and

there they imbalmed the five Timber holes; with Salt, Oyle, Balme,

and Odoriferous perfumes.

Then the Guardian, and the other twelve Friers kneeled downe, and

kissed each one of the five Suppositive Wounds: the Turkes meanewhile

laughing them to scorne in their faces, with miserable derision. Thence

they returned, and layd the senselesse blocke uppon the Holy Grave,

whence being dismissed, the Papall Ceremony ended.

Truely hereupon, may I say, if the Romane Jesuites, Dominicans

and Franciscans, there Resident in certayne speciall parts of the

Turkes Dominions, had onely behaved themselves as their polliticke

charge required, and dismissed from the Paganisme eyes, onely their

idolatrous images, veneration of Pictures, Crosses, and the like

externall superstitious Rites: These Infidels I say, had long agoe

(without any insight of Religion) bene converted to the Christian

Faith. For besides all this blindnesse, what infinite abhominable

Idolatries commit they in Italy and Spaine; in clothing the Pictures

of dead Abbots, Monkes, Priors, Guardians, and the better kind of

officiall Friers and Priests, with robes of Sattin, Velvet, [Damnable

and intolerable superstition.] Damas, Taffaty, long gownes and coules

of cloth, shirts, stockings, and shoes: And what a number of livelesse

portrayed Prioresses, motherlesse Nunnes, yet infinite mothers,

be erected (like the Maskerata of Morice-dancers) in silver, gold,

gilded brasse, yron, stone, tynne, lead, copper, clay, and timber

shapes, adorned with double and triple ornaments: over-wrought with

silke, silver, and gold-laces, rich bracelets, silke grograine, and

cambricke vales, chaines, smockes, ruffes, cuffes, gloves, collers,

stockings, garters, pumpes, nose-gayes, beeds, and costly head-geire;

setting them on their Altars, O spectaculous Images! adoring them for

gods, in kneeling, praying, & saying Masses before them: Yet they are

none of their avowed, allowed, and canonized pontificall Saints: for

although they be bastards & wooden blocks, yet are they better clad,

then their lupish legitimate ones, no, I may say, as the best Kings

daughter alive. Which is a sinfull, odious, and damnable idolatry;

and I freely confesse at some times, and in some parts I have torne a

peeces those rich garments from their senselesse images and blockes,

thinking it a greater sinne not to do it than to stand staring on

such prodigall prophannesse, with any superstitious respect, or with

indifferent forbearance to winke at the wickednesse of Idolaters.

Here the Guardiano offered for ten peeces of gold (although my due

be thirty Chickens sayd he) to make me Knight of the holy Grave,

or of the order of Jerusalem, which I refused, knowing the condition

of that detestable oath I behooved to have sworne; but I saw two of

these other Pilgrimes receive that Order of Knighthood.

[The Knights of the Holy Grave.] The manner whereof is thus: First they

bind themselves with a solemne vow, to pray (during life) for the Pope,

King of Spaine, and the Duke of Venice, from whom the Friers receive

their maintenance; and also in speciall, for the French King, by whose

meanes they obtaine their liberty of the great Turke, to frequent these

monumentall places. Secondly, they are sworne enemies to Protestants,

and others, who will not acknowledge the superiority of the Romane

Church. Thirdly, they must pay yearely some stipend unto the Order

of the Franciscans. These attestations ended, the Frier putteth a

gilded spurre on his right heele, causing the yong made Knight stoope

downe on his knees, and lay his hands on the holy Grave: after this

he taketh a broad sword from under his gray gowne (being privately

carried for feare of the Turkes) which is (as he sayd) the Sword,

wherewith victorious Godfrey conquered Jerusalem, and giveth this new

upstart Cavaliero, nine blowes upon the right shoulder. Loe here the

fashion of this Papisticall Knighthood, which I forsooke.

Indeed upon the Knight-hood they have certaine priviledges among the

Papists, of which these are two: If a malefactor being condemned and

brought to the Gallows, any of these Knights may straight cut the rope

and releeve him: The other is, they may carry and buy silkes through

all Spaine and Italy, or elsewhere, and pay no Custome, neither in

comming nor going, nor for any silke ware, where the Romish Church

hath any commandement.

After our Guardiano had ended his superstitious Rites and Ceremonies,

upon Easter day, before midnight, we returned to the Monastery, having

stayed three dayes within that Church: And the next day thereafter,

the nine Ragusan and Venetian Factors left us, returning backe to

their severall Stations.

About sixe of the clocke, on monday morning, the Padre Viccario, and

the aforesayd John Baptista accompanying us, we travailed abroad in

the hilly Countrey of Judea. In this dayes journey, the places of any

note we saw were these: [Certaine relicts of Monuments.] First, where

the Daughters of Jerusalem came foorth to meete Saul, crying, Saul

hath slaine his thousand, and David his ten thousand: And for memory

of this standeth a certayne olde pillar of Marble. Next, the valley

of Trebin, where David slew the great Goliath. And for remembrance of

that, there are a great heape of stones layd together in the bottome

of the valley, like to the Relickes of an old monument. Thirdly,

Bezura, where Absalom killed his brother Ammon for Thamars sake,

whereof nothing but the name is onely reserved.

[Emaus.] Fourthly, the Castle of Emaus, now altogether ruinated, except

only three fire houses of Moores; in which our Saviour was knowne

after his Resurrection, by the two Disciples in breaking of bread;

where now the remanents of that house being vaulted, is turned over for

a shelterage to sheepe; and a soft paved lodging for quivering Goates.

Fifthly, the Valley of Gibeon, where the ray-beaming Sunne stood still,

at the voice of Joshua, from his naturall course. Joshua 10. 12.

Sixtly, the Toombe or buriall place of Samuel, that divine Prophet

of the Lord: over the which the Moores have a Moskque erected,

wherein we could not enter, but hard by and without it, we found

one of the finest Fountaines in all Judea, and yet not a dwelling

house neere unto it by three miles, in regard of the sassinous and

infertile ground about it, the water whereof was exceeding light,

sweete, and pleasant in digestion. Seventhly, the Tombes of the

valiant Captaine Judas Macchabeus, and his Children, whereupon are

now onely the ruines of an old Chappell, which is converted in a

[The buriall place of the Kings and Queenes of Israel.] hould for

Sheepe and Goates: And last of all, the buriall place of the noble

Family of the Kings and Queenes of Israel, or Jerusalem, being neere

unto the Citty, and within a short halfe mile. The entry whereto was

so straite, that on our backes we behoved to slide downe, above ten

paces under the ground, with light candles in our hands.

In that spacious place we saw twenty foure Chambers hewen out of

a Marble Rocke. Each roome hath a hanging stone doore of a great

thicknesse, so artificially done by the skilfull Art of Masons, that

the rarest spirit of tenne thousand cannot know how these doores have

bene made, so to move as they do, being a firme Rocke both below and

above; and the doores have neither iron nor timber-worke about them:

but by cunning are made so to turne, and in that same place where

they grew they are squared; yea, and so exquisitely done, that the

most curious Carpenter cannot joyne a peece of boord so neatly, as

these stone doores joyne with the Rocke. In each of these roomes are

two Sepulchers, wherein I saw the bones of some of these dead Princes.

Thursday, the tenth day of my being at Jerusalem, not reckoning the two

dayes we spent in going to Jordan, the weeke before: We I say, ishued

forth of the Citty earely, with our aforesayd guides, riding Westward:

The first remarkeable thing we saw, was the place (as they say) where

the Crosse grew, whereon Christ suffered: being reserved by Greekes,

who have a Convent builded over it: That Crosse is sayd to have bene

of foure sundry kinds of wood, and not of one Tree, for they shewed us

but one hole where it grew, and so they hold it to have bene of one

peece of Olive Tree, but this I suspend, leaving it to be searched,

by the pregnancy of riper judgements then mine, howsoever opinious.

[The leying vilany of a Rogish Greeke.] And here I cannot forget a

dissembling knavish Greeke, who came here to London some eight yeares

ago, to beg support for the reparation of this decayed Monastery of the

holy Crosse. Well, Gundamore the Spanish Ambassadour intertained him;

and recommended his cause to our politicque power: A contribution is

granted, over all England for the same purpose, and also recoiled,

besides the severall acknowledgements of our Noble Courtiers:

Oportunity come, I rancountred with this counterfeit Rascall in White

hall: Whereupon diverse Gentlemen his Majesties servants, desired me

to try him, if he had bene at Jerusalem, or dwelt at the Cloister of

the holy Crosse: presently I demanded him, where the Convent stood,

he replied within Jerusalem, and upon Mount Moriah: which was false,

for the Convent is remote from the Citty, about three English miles:

I posed him further about the situation of Jerusalem, &c. The quantity

of this Cloyster, of its Church, of the number of Friers, who lived

in it, with many more questions, whose circumstances would be tedious:

To any one of which, he could not reply, but stood shivering for feare

and shame; neither had he never bene in Asia nor these parts: whereupon

stealing out of the Court, he was no more seene abroad: for he had got

at Court, and in the Kingdome, above twelve hundreth pounds starling,

besides the advancement of the Papists, and Recusants: and here was

a tricke, that then the Spanish faction put upon us and themselves

also being deceaved by a deceiver, deceived us with a double deceit,

policy, and lyes.

About five miles further, we arrived at a Village, on the Mountaine

of Judea, where we saw a disinhabited house, in which Elizabeth the

mother of Saint John Baptist dwelt, when Mary came up from Galilee to

salute her; and neare to this, we beheld (as they say) the Sanctuary,

wherein Zacharias was stricken dumbe till Elizabeth was delivered: Two

miles further, on a Rocky Mountaine, [Saint John the Baptists Cave.] we

arrived at a Cave, wherein (say they) S. John did his pennance till

he was nineteene yeare of age, after which time, he went downe and

dwelt at Jordan: It is a pretty fine place hewen out of a Rocke, to

the which we mounted by twelve steppes, having a window cut through

a great thicknesse of firme stone, whence we had the faire prospect

of a fruitfull valley: and from the mouth of this delectable Grotto,

gusheth forth a most delicious Fountaine.

Returning thence, we passed over an exceeding high Mountaine, from

whence we saw the most part of Judea; and to the Westward, in the way

of Egypt, the Castle of the Prophet Elisha, and Idumea the Edomits

land, lying also betweene Egypt and Jerusalem: This cloudy height, is

called the mountaine of Judea, because it over-toppeth all the rest

of the mountaines, that circumviron Jerusalem, Palestine, Galilee,

Phenicia, or Samaria. Descending on the South side of the same Hill,

we arrived at Phillips Fountaine, in which he baptized the Eunuch

of Æthiopia, standing full in the way of Gaza. Here we paid some

certaine Madins unto the Moores of the Village, for accoasting the

place, and drinking of the water: So did we also for the sight of

every speciall Monument in Judea.

At night, we lodged in Bethleem, in a Monasterie of the same

Fransciscans of Jerusalem, being onely sixe Friers: After Supper we

went all of us (having Candles) to the place, where our Saviour was

borne; over the which, there is a magnificent Church builded: yea,

the most large and royall workmanship that for a Church is in all Asia,

or Affricke, being decored with a hundred and fifty Pillars. But before

we came where the Crub had beene, we passed certaine difficile wayes;

where, being arrived, wee entered in a gorgeous roome, adorned with

Marble, Saphyre, and Alabaster stones; and there they shewed us

[Christs Crub at Bethleem.] both the place and the resemblance of

the Crub: over which were hanging lampes of pure Gold, and within

their circles oyle continually burning. Not farre from that place,

and within the body of the admirable Church, they shewed us the

part, over the which the Starre stayed, that conducted the three

Wise-men from the East, who came out of Chaldea, to worship Christ,

and presented gifts unto him. From thence they brought us to a Cave

without the Towne, wherein (say they) the Virgin Mary was hid, when

Herod persecuted the Babes life, (from which also being warned by

the Angell) She and Joseph fled downe into Ægypt with the Child.

In this time of her feare, say they, the milke left her blessed

breasts, so that the Babe was almost starved, but Shee praying to

the Almighty, there came forthwith abundance, which overflowing her

breasts, and falling to the ground, left ever since, as they alledge,

this consequent vertue to this Cave.

[Admirable dust.] The earth of the Cave is white as Snow, and hath

this miraculous operation, that a little of it drunke in any Liquor,

to a Woman, that after her Child-birth is barren of Milke, shall

forthwith give abundance: which is not onely availeable to Christians,

but likewise to Turkish, Moorish, and Arabianish Women, who will come

from farre Countries, to fetch of this Earth. I have seene the nature

of this dust practised, wherefore I may boldly affirme it, to have

the force of a strange vertue: Of the which earth I brought with me a

pound weight, and presented the halfe of it to our sometimes Gracious

Queene Anne of blessed memory, with divers other rare relicts also,

as a Girdle, and a paire of Garters of the Holy Grave, all richly

wrought in silke and gold, having this inscription at every end of

them in golden letters, Sancto Sepulchro, and the word Jerusalem, &c.

Wednesday following, wee hired foure and twenty Moores to conduct us

unto [Salomons Fish-ponds.] Salomons Fish-ponds, which are onely three,

being never a whit decayed; and to Fons Segnatus, whence commeth the

water in a stone-Conduit, along the Mountaines, that serveth Jerusalem,

which worke was done by Salomon. The Ponds being hewne out, and made

square from the devalling face of a precipitating mountaine; through

which the streame of Fons Signatus runneth, filling the Ponds till

it come to its owne aquadotte.

Returning thence, and keeping our way Southward, we passed through

the valley of Hebron, where Jacob dwelt, and entered into the fields

of Sychem, where Jacobs Sonnes kept their fathers Sheepe; and not

far hence, they shewed us a dry Pit, which they called Josephs Pit,

that was at Dothan; wherein he was put by his Brethren, before they

sold him to the Ismaelites.

In our backe comming to Bethleem, we saw a Cave in the Desart of

Ziph, wherein David hid himselfe, when he was persecuted by King

Saul; and the field Adra, where the Angels brought the glad tidings

of salvation unto the Sheepheards. Unto all which parts our Moorish

guard and John Baptista, brought us and conducted us backe againe to

Bethleem, where we stayed the second night.

[The Towne of Bethleem.] Bethleem is the pleasantest Village in

all Judea, situated on a pretty Hill, and five English miles from

Jerusalem: It produceth commodiously, an infinite number of Olive and

Figge-trees, some Cornes, and a kinde of white Wine, wherewith we

were furnished all the time of our abode there; also in, and about

Jerusalem. In our way, as we came backe to the City, the next day

following, the Viccario shewed us a little Moskee, kept by Turkes, in

which (sayd hee) was the Tombe of Rachel, Jacobs wife, who died in that

place; as shee was travelling from Padan Aram, with her husband Jacob.

The ruines also of a house, where Habacuk the Prophet dwelt; a

Turpentine tree growing yet by the way side, under the which (say

they) the Virgin Mary was wont to repose her selfe in travelling. We

saw also a naturall rocke in the high way; whereon (say they) Elias

oft slept, and is not ashamed to say, that the hollow dimples of

the stone, was onely made by the impression of his body; as though

the tender flesh of man could leave the print of his portraiture

on a hard stone. And not farre from this, they shewed us the place,

where the Starre appeared to the wise men, after they had left Herod

to seeke for the Saviour of mankind.

Approaching Mount Sion, we saw a quadrangled dry pond; wherein (say

they) Beersheba the Wife of Urias, was Washing, when David looked

forth from the toppe of his Pallace, gazing on the aspect of his lust,

gave the Bridle of reason, fast tyed in the hands of temptation;

and becomming subject to the subtilty of sinne, was bewitched by her

beauty; wherewith corruption triumphed in Nature, and godlinesse

decreased in voluntary consent; and from a royall Prophet fell in

the bloody lists of Murther and Adultery.

Over against this place, on the North side of Gehinnon, [King Davids

pallace.] we saw the ruines of a Palace wherein David dwelt, which

hath beene one of the Angles of the ancient Citty; and standeth at the

division of the valley Ennon, which compassed (as a Ditch) the North

part of mount Syon, even to the valley Jehosophat, and so Eastward,

being now filled up with fragments of old walles; and the valley

of Gehinnon lying West, and East; bordering along the South side of

Sion, till it joyne also with the narrow valley of Jehosophat, which

invironeth the East, and devalling parts of Jerusalem. Neere to this

demolished Tower, we saw the habitation of Simeon, who having seene

the blessed Messias, sayd: Now Lord let thy Servant depart in peace,

for mine eyes have seene thy Salvation.

And now lastly uppon the twelfth day of my abode there, early on

Thursday morning, the Guardiano, twelve Friers, and John Baptista

(because that was the last day of seeing any more Monuments, or was

to be seene there) accompanied us: as wee issued at the South-gate of

the City, we came to a place, on the skirt of Syon, where (say they)

Peter after his deniall of Christ his maister, wept bitterly.

Descending by the side of that same Hill, we crossed the valley

Gehinnon, [Acaldema.] and came to Acaldema, the Potters field, or

field of blood; which is a little foure-squared Roome, oppositive to

the devalling side of the South-falling Syon: three parts whereof are

invironed with a natural rocke, and the fourth square bordering with

the valley, is made up of stone worke: The top is covered, and hath

three holes, where through they let the dead Christians fall downe;

for it is a buriall place of Pilgrimes to this day. As I looked downe,

I beheld a great number of dead corpes; some whereof had white winding

sheets, and newly dead, lying one above another in a lumpe; yeelded

a pestilent smell, by reason they were not covered with earth, save

onely the architecture of a high vault, which maketh that in a long

time the corpes cannot putrifie and rot.

Neare unto this Campo, we entred into a darke Cave, where (say they)

the Apostles hid themselves, when Christ was taken. At the foote of

the same valley, we came to [Ponto Nehemia.] Ponto Nehemia, in which

place the Jewes did hide the Holy Fire, when they were taken captives

to Babylon; walking more downeward, toward the valley of Jehosophat,

we saw a darke Celler under the ground without windowes; wherein

(said the Guardian) the Idolatrous Jewes made a sacrifice of their

children unto a brazen Image called Moloch, which being made hot,

they inclosed them in the hollownesse thereof, and so slew them:

and least their crying should have moved any compassion towards

them, they made a thundring noise with drums, and other instruments,

whereupon the place was called Tophet, mentioned in Jer. 7. 31. Hence

we came to the Poole of Siloam, in which wee washed our selves, the

water whereof falleth downe through a Rocke, from the City above,

running straight to the valley of Jehosophat; and there we saw

also the remnant of that sacked Towre of Siloam. Neare to this we

saw a fountaine, where (say they) the Virgin Mary used oft to wash

the Babes clothes and linnen clouts. From thence we crossed the

[Brook Cedron.] Brooke Cedron (which guttereth through the valley

of Jehosophat) and is alwaies dry, unlesse it be in December, when

the raine falleth there impetuously for a month together, which is

all the winter they have in these parts: during which time none may

labour, nor travell, but forced to keepe themselves within houses:

Having past I say this Brooke wee came to the Tombes of Absolon and

Zacharias, and the Cave wherein S. James was wont to hide himselfe

from the persecuting Jewes. Ascending more upward on the hill, in the

way of Bithania, wee saw these places, where Judas hanged himselfe,

over which there is a vault erected, like a halfe Moone, in memory

of his selfe murther, and hard by they shewed us where the withered

Figge tree grew, the place being inclosed within a high stone dyke;

and halfe a mile thence we came to the ruined house of Simon the Lepar.

[Lazarus Tomb in Bethania.] Arriving at Bithania, we saw the Castle and

Tombe of Lazarus, on whom Christ shewed a miracle, in raising him from

the grave, after hee had beene 4. dayes dead. It is a singular and rare

Alabaster Tombe, and so exquisitely done, that it excelleth (Jerusalem

excepted) all the monuments in Judea, erected for the like purpose,

being inclosed within a delicate Chappell under the ground. Not farre

thence in the same Village, wee saw the decayed house where Martha,

and Mary Magdalen inhabited, and the stone whereon Christ sate (say

they) when he sayd to Martha, Mary hath chosen the best part.

Leaving this moorish Bithania, being now a Village of no qualitie,

we returned by beggerly Bethphage, and finding it farre worser, about

mid-day wee arrived on the top of Mount Olivet, where wee dined on

our owne provision carried with us, and then proceeded in our sights.

From this place wee had the full prospect of Jerusalem: For the

City standing upon the edge of a hill, can not be seene all at one

sight; save on this Mountaine, which is two times higher then Mount

Sion. These are the Monuments shewne us upon the [Mount Olivet and

the Places of note thereof.] Mount of Olives: First, the print of the

left foote of our Saviour, in an immoveable stone, which he made when

he ascended to Heaven; the Guardiano told us further, that the right

footes print was taken away by the Turkes; and detained by them in

the Temple of Salomon: But who can thinke our Saviour trode so hard at

his ascention, as to have left the impression of his feete behind him.

Next the place where hee foretold the judgement to come, and the

signes, and the wonders, that should be seene in the Heavens before

that dreadfull day. Thirdly, the place where the Symbolum Apostolorum

was made, which is a fine chamber under the ground, like a Church,

having twelve pillars to support it. Fourthly, where Christ taught

his Disciples the Pater noster, and where he fell in an agony, when

hee sweat blood and water. Fifthly, where Peter, James, and John

slept, whiles our Saviour prayed, and returned so oft to awake them;

and also below that, where the other Disciples were left. Sixtly, the

Garden of Gethsemane, where Christ used commonly to pray; in the which

place he was apprehended by the officers of the high Priests, and it

was also where Judas kissed him, and the Sergeants fell backward on

the ground. Seventhly, they shewed us a stone marked with the Head,

Feete, and Elbowes of Jesus, in their throwing of him downe, when

as they bound him, after hee was taken, and ever since (say they)

have these prints remained there.

And lastly, at the foote of mount Olivet, in the valley of Jehosophat,

we descended by a paire of staires of forty three steppes, and sixe

paces large, in a faire Church builded under the ground: Where (say

they) the Monument of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is, and did

show it unto us, whom (they thinke) was borne in Jerusalem, dwelt at

Bethleem, and Nazareth, and dyed uppon mount Syon. [Sacred and singular

Tombes.] I saw also there, the Sepulchers of Joseph her husband,

Joachim her Father, and of Anna her mother. And for which sights

paying sixteene Madins a man, to certaine Moores: we returned to our

Monastery againe night to repose us, having seene all the Antiquities

and places of note, were to be seene, in, and about all Judea.

Loe, I have plainely described all these Monuments, by the order

of these twelve severall dayes: The like heretofore, was never by

a Travailer so punctually, so truly, and so curiously set downe,

and made manifest to the intellective Reader. But as I sayd in the

beginning of my Description, so say I now also at the Conclusion,

some of these things are Rediculous, some of manifest untruths,

some also doubtfull, and others, somewhat more credible, and of

apparent truth. The recapitulation whereof, is only by me used,

as I was informed, by Gaudentius Saybantus the father Guardian,

Laurenzo Antonio il Viccario, and the Trenchman John Baptista.

Now in Jerusalem, wee eleaven Frankes stayed three dayes longer,

preparing our selves for a new Voyage to go downe to Egypt with a

Caravan of Grand Cayro: In which time the aforesaid Frier Laurenzo,

whose life I had saved on the Quarantanam, propined me privatly with

twelve Crosses made of the Olive Wood of mount Olivet: Each Crosse

having 24. Relickes indented in them, with fourty paire of Chaplets

made of that same Wood, two Turkish Handkerchiefes, and three paire of

Garters and Girdles of the Holy Grave: All wrought in silke and Gold,

with diverse other things, &c. Which were not so thankfully received,

as they were thankfully given, by a gratefull and unforgetfull

Frier. Meanewhile, the last day of our staying there, we went all of

us Friers and Pilgrimes in againe to the Holy Grave, where we remained

al night. Earely on the morrow there came a fellow to us, one Elias

Areacheros, a Christian inhabitour at Bethleem, and purveier for the

Friers; who did ingrave on [The Armes of Jerusalem.] our severall Armes

upon Christs Sepulcher the name of Jesus, and the Holy Crosse; beeing

our owne option, and desire: and heere is the Modell thereof. But I,

decyphered, and subjoyned below mine, the four incorporate [King James

his foure Crownes.] Crowns of King James, with this Inscription, in

the lower circle of the Crowne, Vivat Jacobus Rex: returning to the

fellow two Piasters for his reward: I fixt these lines for King James.

Long may he live, and long may God above

Confirme, Reward, Encrease his Christian love:

That He (blest King of men) may never cease

To keep this Badge, the sacred Prince of Peace;

And there's the Motto, of His Maiden Crowne,

Hæc nobis invicta miserunt, ne're wonne.

Which when the Guardian understood, what I had done in memory of

my Prince upon that Sacred Tombe, hee was greatly offended with me,

that I should have polluted that Holy place, with the name of such

an Arch-enemy to the Romane Church. But not knowing how to mend

himselfe, and hearing me to recite of the Heroick Vertues of our

matchlesse Monarch: who for Bounty, Wisedome, and Learning, was

not paragonized among all the Princes of the earth: His fury fell;

and begun to intreate me, to make it knowne to his Majesty, that

hee never allowed any support to their afflicted lives, neyther any

gratuity for maintayning of those Sacred Monuments at Jerusalem,

his subjects being as free here as they. Which indeed I performed,

for after my arrivall in England, and having propined his Majesty

with diverse rare things, and a Turpentine rod from Jordan; in the

midst of my Discourses, I told his Highnesse, in the Privy Garden of

Greenewich, the Guardians request. Who indeed gave me a most gracious

answere, saying, They never sought any helpe of him, and if they had,

he would have supported their necessity. Bidding farewell to the Church

of St. Salvatore, and being re incloystred againe, after breakfast,

the reckoning of Stridor Dentium came to us, [Of English money.] for

17. dayes diet, being to each man six shillings a day, amounting for my

part to 5 pounds two shillings. Then the Guardians Secretary, presented

me my Patent under their Great Seale; & that cost me 3. Chickens

of Gold. The beginning whereof I recall, although the principall,

[The Discourse of the Seale is in the page following.] be lost in

the Inquisition of Malaga, was thus: Frater Gaudentius Saybantus

ordinis minorum regularis observantiæ Sancti Antonii Dei & Apostolicæ

sedis gratia, Sacri montis Sion Guardianus, Terræ sanctæ gubernator &

custos; ac in partibus orientis Apostolicus Commissarius, salutem in

Domino sempiternam. Notum vobis facimus, &c. The Contents whereof,

reciting all the memorable things I saw within the Holy Land, there

was thereunto annexed their Great Seale, sticking fast, or locked

in upon the lower face of the Parchment, the impression whereof,

had the Effigies of the twelve Apostles, and Christ in the midst:

having this Circumscription about: Magnum sigillum Sacri montis Sion

Guardianus. The model whereof is affixed in the former page.

Then had we avaricious Baptista our Guide and Interpreter to reward,

every one of us propining him with two Chickens of gold: And lastly wee

gratified the gaping Steward, the Cerberian Porter, the Cymerian Cooke,

and his Ætnean face, with a Chicken of gold the man, from each of us:

amounting in all among the foure Catzocullioni, to twenty foure pounds

fifteene shillings sterling.

Nay this was not all; for even when the Ægyptian Caravan,

was staying for us without the City, the Guardian [Greedy and

flattering Friers.] made a begging Sermon to us, imploring our

bounties to commiserate and support their great calamities, losses,

and oppressions inflicted upon them by the Infidels, with many other

base & flattering speeches: which indeed nine of us refused, because of

the great Extortion he had imposed uppon us before; but the two Germane

Barons gave him the value of sixe English pounds, or there abouts.

And now finally, or I leave mount Syon, I thinke it not amisse, to give

the itching Travailer a frozen stomacke, who perhaps soweth Words in

the Wind, conceptions in the Ayre, and catcheth Salmond swimming on

Atlas: I will now (I say) justly cast up to him the charges I defrayed

within the Wals of Jerusalem, not reckoning my journall expences

and tributs else where abroad; arising to eighteene pounds sixteene

shillings starling: And there a cooling card for his Caprizziat, and

imaginary inventions: And it may serve also, to damnifie the blind

conceit of many who thinke that Travellers are at no charges, goe where

they will, but are freely maintained every where; and that is as false,

as an hereticall errour. May the twelfth, and the eighteene day of

my staying there, about mid-day, the other ten and I joyned with the

Caravan, who formerly had conditioned with us to carry us to Ægypt,

and to furnish the rest Camels or Dromidories to ride upon, (for I

would never ride any) for nineteene Piasters the man, discharging us

also all tributes and Caffars were to be imposed upon us by the way;

and so we marched through the South-west part of Judea towards Idumea,

or the Edomits land; and meane-while I gave [The Authors good night

to Jerusalem.] Jerusalem this goodnight, &c.

Thrice sacred Sion, sometimes blazd abrode,

To be the Mansion, of the living God;

For Prophets, Oracles, Apostles deare

And godly Kings, who raisd great glory here:

Where Aarons rod, the Arke, and Tables two,

And Mannaes Pot, fire of sacrifice so

From Heaven that fell: were all inclos'd in Thee

Containing neare, what not contaynd could be:

To thee sweet Sion, and thine eldest daughter,

Which Titus fiercely sackt with Jewish slaughter:

And to thy second birth, raisd to my sight

I prostrate bid, thy blessed bounds goodnight:

Next for the Holy land, which I have trac'd,

From end to end; and all its beauty fac'd;

Where Kings were stall'd, disthron'd, defac'd, renown'd,

Cast downe, erect'd, unscepterd, slayne, and crown'd:

The land of promise, once a Sea of Oyle

Whence milke and honey flowd; yea, too a soyle

Where men, and might, like miracles were raisd

Sprung from a Garden plot: A wonder praisd

Above conceit: whose strength did farre excell

All other lands; take thou my kind farewell.

And last Franciscan Friers, O painted Tombes!

Where vice and lust lurke low, beneath your wombes;

Whose hearts, like Hell, doe gape for greed of gold,

That have Religion, with your conscience sold,

To you I say a poxe, O flattering Friers!

And damn'd deceivers, borne & bred for Leyers,

Whose end my purse implores; O faithlesse fellowes!

And leaves you for your paines, curst Hamans gallowes.

Having bid farewell to Syon, we marched that afternoone in the way

of Gaza; and arrived at night in a [Kind Jewes to us Franks.] goodly

Village, more full of Jewes than Moores, called Hembaluda, situate

on the face of a fruitfull hill, and the last limit of Judea: Here

the Germanes and I were well intertained gratis, by certaine Jewes

that spoke Italian, and much rejoyced to see such strangers in these

bounds, for two of them had beene borne in Venice: The Captaine,

and our company were all Ægyptians, all of them being Christians,

called Copties, viz. beleevers: Their number was about eight hundred

persons, who had come up from Ægypt, to dignify for devotions sake

this Easter time, being the great feast of Jerusalem; Of whom by the

way we received great affability & kind respect without any offence.

That night the whole Caravan lay in the fields, and we stayed within

the Towne making merry with our Hebraick friends, earely the next

morning wee imbraced our Idumean way, finding this Edomitish land

sorely distressed by the Arabs, and yet the Inhabitants were subject

to the Turke: In this long dayes journey we found abundance of water,

and all other necessaries for our reliefe, and yet the people were

both rude & extreame barbarous, having no more show of humanity then

the foure footed Leopards of Berdoa.

The Dutch Gentlemen grew affrayed at these savages, as being

unacquainted before with such an awful sight; and to dispell their

feare, tush sayd I, courage Gentlemen, no scope, no hope, and flashd

over these lines in Italian to them;

To gallant mindes, all kind of soyles they be,

Their native land; as fish imbrace the Sea:

For they who would traverse earths variant face,

Must take their hazard, as they finde the place;

And that's my soyle, best meanes can me defray,

But Sirs be glad, wee came not here to stay.

[The auncient City of Gaza.] Againe night we declined towards Gaza,

and there stayed in a fine Cane prepared for Travellers; where the

whole Caravan, Souldiers, Camels, Dromodores, Mules, and Asses were all

well satisfied and refreshed: The next morning we went to the Bezestan

or market place, and there furnished our selves with provision of

Bread, Hens, Egges, Garlicke, and Onions, sufficient enough to carry

us through the desarts being ten dayes journey. Gaza now is called

Habalello, and is composed of twelve hundred fire-houses, and sensible

against the incursions of Arabs: The ruvid Cittizens, being Turkes,

Moores, Jews, domeseticke Arabians, with a few Georgians, & Nostranes.

There is a Garrison here of Souldiers, and a Turkish Captaine, that

commandeth the Towne and Castle: In the afternoone, we set our faces

forward to that fearefull Wildernesse, and travailed or night twelve

miles, pitching our Tents beside a source or standing Well. Here our

Guard, kept a strict Watch about us all night; and I kept as well the

Germanes from langour, cherishing them with joviall merriments, for

they were my inward friends, yet of a faint and fearefull nature. At

the breach of day we set forward, passing through diverse Rockey and

shrubby heights, till afternoone, and then wee declined to a sandy

valley: Where when come, what with the deepnesse [Burning Sands.] of

the Way, and the great heate reflexing upon the sand, and from the

Sand to our faces, we were miserably turmoiled, especially I, who

went alwayes on foote.

Having past this wearisome bottome, and before night marching along

the skirt of a craggy Hill, two hundred Arabs broake out upon us from

holes and bushes, and shrewdly annoyed our Company with Arrowes, till

a contribution of sixteene Piasters was sent to them. The halfe of

that night we pitched our Tents, in a pastorable [Wild Arabs selling

water.] plaine, where some scattering Arabs, sold us Water in Wooden

Cups, carrying it in Wilde Boare skins upon their naked backes. Two

of which Savages our Captayne hyred, to guide us the next day to

the first Castle of the three, that were built by the Turkes, and a

dayes journey distant one from another; beeing each of them strongly

guarded with Souldiers, and that for the reliefe of Caravans, being

the most dangerous, and most desolate place in the Desarts.

Our Guides the day following, brought us through the best and safest

places of the Country, where we found certayne profitable parts,

planted with haire-cloath tents, and over-cled heere and there with

spots of Sheepe and Goates: and yet were we not there without the

invasion of stragling Arabs, and paying of tributes, which the

Captaine defrayed for us, our condition being formerly made so

at Jerusalem. Before night with great heat, and greater drouth, we

approached to the first Castle, where the Captayne thereof received us

kindly, causing our Tents to be pitched round about the Quadrangled

Tower. Here we had abundance of Water (though I would rather have

had Wine) to suffice the whole Company, drawne out of a Cisterne, and

reposing safely uppon the hard ground, the Castle Garrison watched us,

and our guard watched them.

[Grievous and desertuous travelling.] Thence with a new Guide the

sequell morne, we marched through a fiery faced plaine, scorch'd with

burning heate, and deepe rolling Sand, where diverse of our smallest

Beasts perished, with sixe men and Women also in relieving their

overwhelmed Asses. Long or midday, having got to a hard height, we

pitched our Tents, reposing under their shaddowes till the evening,

for wee were not able to indure the intollerable heate of the Sun;

and so did wee likewise over-umbrate our selves every mid-day. The

vigour of the day gone, and the cooling night come, we advanced

forward to the middle Castle, being led by our Guide, and the pale

Lady of the night leading him: Where when come, wee found neyther

that Fort answerable to the former in strength, nor the Captaine so

humane as the other was: Here wee were all offended with the scarcity

of Water, the Captayne playing the Villaine, crossed us, because the

Caravanship were Christians; at last about mid-night some 30. Arabs,

came to us loaden with Water, carried on their backes. To whom we

payed for every Caraff, beeing an English quart, three Aspers of

silver, ten Aspers going to a shilling: Whereof my kinde Dutch-men

drunke too much, the Water being thicke and of a brounish colour;

and hot like pisse, offended their over-wained stomackes; which as I

supposed, was the chiefest cause the next day of some of their Deaths.

After mid-night, the Turkish Captaine, and our Caravan fell at

variance, about Water to our Beasts, who were ready to choake, and

if they had not bin prevented with Souldiers on both sides, it had

drawne us and them, to a finall mischiefe. The discord unpacified,

before the following day, and within night, we imbraced our wilsome

and fastidious Way, journying through many dens, and umbragious

Caves, over-shaded with mouldring heights; [Savage women having their

Child-bed in Caves.] in some whereof we found Savage Women lying in

their Barbarous child-bed: having their bodies naked (the fore-face

of their Wombe excepted) their beds were made of soft Sand, and

over-spread with leaves a foote thicke; whose new borne Babes lying

in their armes, were swadled with the same Leaves. And for all their

sicknesse, which was very small, they had none of our Wives sugred

sops, burnt Wines, Venison pasties, Delicate fare, and great Feasting,

nor a moneths lying in, and then Churched, putting their husbands to

incompatible charges. No, no, their food is onely Bread, Garlicke,

Hearbes, and Water, and on the third or fourth day, in stead of their

Churching, they goe with Bowes and Arrowes to the fieldes againe,

hunting for spoiles and booties from passing Caravans.

Advancing in our course, we fell downe from the hils in a long

bottome of Sand, above sixe miles in length: Wherein with sore

Wrestling agaynst the parching Sun, and could get no ground to pitch

our Tents to over shade us; three of our Germans, the two Barons,

Signior Strouse, and Signior Crushen, with one Signior Thomasio,

tumbled downe from their beasts backes starke dead, being [The death

of three Germane Gentlemen.] suffocated with the vigorous Sunne, for

it was in May, choaked also with extreame drouth, and the reflection

of the burning sand; and besides their faire was growne miserable,

and their Water worse, for they had never beene acquainted with the

like distresse before, though it was alwayes my vade Mecum. Whereupon

the Caravan staied and caused cast on their Corpes againe, on their

owne beasts backes, and carrying them to the side of a hard Hill, we

digged a hollow pit, and disspoyling them of their Turkish cloathes,

I did with my owne hands cast them all three one above another,

in that same hole, and covering the Corpes with mouldring earth,

the Souldiers helped me to role heavy stones above their grave, to

the end, that the bloody Jackals should not devoure their corpes;

and to conclude this woefull and sorrowfull accident, the other

Germanes alive bestowed on me their dead friends Turkish garments,

because of my love and diligent care I ever did show them; which one

of their empty Mules carried for me to Grand Cairo.

Whence with diverse assaults, and greater paines, accoasting [The third

Castle of the desarts.] the third Castle, with as great bewailing

the losse of our friends, as we had contentment in our owne safety,

we found this third Captayne both humane and hospitable: Who indeede

himselfe in person with his Garrison, watched us all night, and had a

speciall care in providing Water for us all, propining our Captayne

and us eight Frankes before supper, with three roasted Hens, and

two Capons: This Turkish Captayne told us there were three inhabited

Townes in these Desarts, the chiefest whereof was Sehan, situate on

the Red Sea, having a harbor and shipping, that Trade both to Ægypt

and Æthiopia, whose commodities are silken stuffes and Spices which

they transport from Meccha, and carrie to Melinda, and the afore-sayd

places in Affricke: But now least I sinke in Prolixity, discoursing of

sinking Sands, and make good the Italian Proverbe, Chi troppo abbracio,

nulla stringe, viz. That he who would imbrace too much, can hold

nothing fast. I decist from this Journall proceeding, and punctuall

Discourse of my laborious Pen, wherein, notwithstanding the Reader

(I having layd open more than halfe of the Wildernesse) may (like that

learned Geometrician, who finding the length of Hercules foote on the

Hill Olympus, drew forth the portraicture of his whole body thereby)

easily conjecture by the former Relation, the sequell sight of these

Desartuous places; and therefore the rest, I will onely Epitomize in

generall till mine arrivall at Saleack on the Confines of Ægypt.

[The bounds of the three Arabias.] Arabia is bounded on the West,

with the Red Sea, and the Ægyptian Istmus: On the North with Canaan,

Mesopotamia, and a part of Syria: On the East with the Persian gulfe,

Caldea, and Assiria: On the South with the great Ocean, and Indian Sea:

This Countrey lyeth from the East to the West, in length about 900. and

some 3500. miles in compasse. The people generally are addicted

to Theft, Rapine, and Robberies: hating all Sciences Mechanicall

or Civill, they are commonly all of the second Stature, swift on

foote, scelerate, and seditious, boysterous in speech, of colour

Tauny, boasting much of their triball Antiquity, and noble Gentry:

Notwithstanding their garments be borne with them from the bare Belly,

their food also semblable, to their ruvid condition, and as savagiously

tame (I protest) as the foure footed Citizens of Lybia: They are not

valourous, nor desperate in assaults without great advantage, for a

100. Turkes is truely esteemed to be sufficient enough to incounter

300. Arabs. Their language extendeth it selfe farre both in Asia,

and Affricke, in the former, through Palestine, Syria, Mesopotamia,

Cilicia, even to the Mount Caucasus: In the latter, through Ægypt,

Libia, and all the Kingdomes of Barbary even to Morocco.

This Arabia deserta, is the place where the people of Israel wandred

forty yeares long, being fed with Manna from Heaven, and with water

out of the driest rocks: In which is Mount Sinai, where the Law of

the two [The scurrile Arabian Desarts.] Tables was promulgated. The

most part of these Desarts is neither fit for herbage nor tillage,

being covered over with a dry, and a thicke Sand, which the wind

transporteth whither it listeth, in heapes and mountaines, that often

intercept and indanger fatigated Travellers. The Inhabitants here

are few, so are their Cities, their dwellings being in sequestrate

dennes and haire-cloath Tents: The most of their wealth consisteth

in Camels Dromidories, and Goats.

Before our arrivall in Saleak, we passed the little Istmus of ground

which parteth Asia, and Affrica, disjoyning the Mediterranean and the

red Seas: Divers have attempted to digge through this strait to make

both Seas meete for a nearer passage to India, of whom Sesostris King

of Ægypt was the first: Secondly, Darius the great Persian Monarch:

Thirdly, another Ægyptian King, who drew a ditch 100. foote broad,

and 30. and odde miles long. But when he intended to finish it, he was

forced to cease, for feare of overflowing all the lower land, the red

Sea being found to be higher by three cubits than the ordinary plaine

of Ægypt: Yet howsoever it was, the ditch is hollow in divers parts,

and fastidious, because of sands to passe over.

At Saleack we overtooke a great Caravan of two thousand people, and

twelve hundred Camels and Dromidores, which were loaden with the ware

of Aleppo, and come from Damascus, intending their voyage for Cayro,

whose company we subtilly left, & marchd before them, for receiving

of water by the way for our selves, and beasts out of Cisternes,

which we left dry behind us.

[The nature of Camels and Dromidores.] A Dromidore, and Camel differ

much in quality, but not in quantity, being of one height, bredth,

and length; save only their heads and feete, which are proportionated

alike; and the difference is such, that the Dromidory hath a quicke

and hard-reaching trot, and will ride above 80. miles in the day, if

that his rider can indure the paine. But the Camell is of a contrary

disposition: For he hath a most slow and lazy pace, removing the

one foote from the other, as though he were weighing his feete in

a ballance; neither can he goe faster although he would: But he is

a great deale more tractable then the other: For when his maister

loadeth him, he falleth downe on his knees to the ground, and then

riseth againe with his burthen, which will be marvailous great,

sometimes 600. or 800. weight.

The red Sea, which we left to the Westward of us, and our left hand

is not red, as many suppose, but is the very colour of other Seas:

The reason for which it hath beene called Mare rubrum, is only because

of the bankes, rushes, sands & bushes that grow by the shore side,

which are naturally red. Some others have called it so, in respect

of the Brookes, which Moses turned to red blood, who misconstruing

the true sense, tooke Seas, for Rivers.

It is vulgarly tearmed Sinus Arabicus, whose length is

1600. miles. This Sea is famous for the miraculous passage of the

Israelites through it, and the drowning of Pharaoh and his people:

and because of Spices that were brought from India and Arabia to

Alexandria, from whence the Venetians dispersed the same through

all Europe and the Mediterren coasts of Asia and Affrick: But this

Navigation is now discontinued by the Portugals, English, and Dutch;

which bring such Wares to their severall homes by the backe side

of Affricke: So that the Trafficke [Indian Spices much weakned.] of

Alexandria is almost decayed, and the Riches of the Venetians much

diminished; so is the vertue of the Spices much impayred by too much

moisture contracted, with the long and tedious carriage thereof.

This afore-sayd Saleack, is thought to be seated on the lower and

Eastmost end of Gozan, consisting of eight hundred dwelling Houses,

being Walled and fensible against the Arabs, and defended also with a

Castle, and ten troupes of Horse-men being Janizaries. Here we rested

and refreshed our selves two nights, providing us fresh victuals for

Grand-Cairo, being foure dayes journey distant; and at our leaving

of Saleack, I saluted this new seene Countrey, with a greedy conceit

of more curiosities.