THE FIFTH PART

Close bounded Hellespont, Earths Mother sport

I leave: longst the Æolid lists, I Smirna court:

Thence Samothrace, and Rhodos, I accoast,

Which Lilidamus Viliers, manly lost:

The Lycian bounds, and steepe Pamphilian shoares

I strictly view: The sea Carpathian roares,

I land at Cyprus: Seline is the place,

Whence I that Kingdome, to Nicosia trace:

From Famagust, faire Asia, then I courted

And Libanon; whence Cedars were transported

For Sions temple: And my toyles to crowne

I sight great Aleppe, Syriaes Lady Towne:

Then passing Mesopotame; Chelfanes land,

I stay at Beershack, on Euphrates strand:

Thence backe by Damas, Arabie Petrea,

Galilee, Samaria, mountainous Judea

I toyling came: And at Jerusalem,

I lodg'd neere Moriah, in a Cloystred frame.

The Winter expired, & the Spring gone, time summoned me after three

moneths repose, to imbrace the violence of a firy fac'd season:

where having dutifully taken my Counge of many worthy friends, who

both kindly, and respectively had used me; especially, the aforesayd

English Ambassadour, Sir Thomas Glover: And the new Ambassadour,

Sir Paul Pinder, who had lately arrived there before my departure,

and had bene formerly Consull in Aleppo five yeares.

I left Constantinople, and imbarked in a Ship belonging to London,

named the Allathya, whereof one Maister Wylds in Ratcliffe was Maister;

where indeed both he and his Company kindly and respectively used

me, for the space of twelve daies; being bound for Smyrna, and so we

sayled along the coast of Bithinia in Asia minor.

Bithinia hath on the North Hellespont: On the West Phrigia; on the

East Pontus: and on the South Capadocia or Leuco Syria: The chiefe

Citties are Calcedon, where, by comaund of the Emperour Martianus,

the fourth Generall Counsell was assembled, to repell the Heresie

of Nestorius. Nigh unto the side of Hellespont is Mount Stella,

famous for that victory which Pompey had over Mithridates: And

where Tamberlane with 800000. Tartarians incountred Bajazet, whose

Army consisted of 500000. men; of which 200000. lost their lives

that day: And [Bajazet taken by Tamberlane.] Bajazet being taken,

was carried about in an Iron Cage on whose necke Tamberlane used to

set his foote, when he mounted on horse-backe; and at last beate out

his owne braines against the barres of the Iron Cage: the next Cities

are Nicomedia; and Nyce, where the first Generall Councell was kept,

Anno 314. to which there assembled 318. Bishops to beate downe the

Arian Heresie. The other Townes are Prusa and Labissa; the former was

built by Prusias King of Bithinia, who betrayed Hanniball when he fled

to him for succour; in the latter Hanniball lyeth buried. Prusa was

a long time the seate of the Ottoman Kings, till Mahomet the first

began to keepe his Residence at Andrianople: The chiefe Rivers are

Ascanius, Sangaro, and Granico, nigh unto which Alexander obtained

the first victory against the Persians.

Having passed Bithinia, and the Phrigian coast, we fetched up Cenchrea,

where Saint Paul cut his haire, after his vow was performed, Acts

18. 18. Being a Towne now inhabited by Greekes, with a Turkish

Governour, and of small importance, in regard of other neighbouring

places, that bereave them of their trafficke; and because the Jewes do

not much frequent here: the Inhabitants are rather turned spectators to

Vertue, than any way inherent to necessary goodnesse: Want of Strangers

being one let, and vitious otiosity the other stop: This City standeth

by the sea side in the North part of Ionia, but more truely on the West

frontiers of Lydia. Lydia hath on the West Phrigia minor: on the South

Ionia: on the East Paphlagonia, on the North-west Æolus, & a part of

Phrygia major. The chiefe Metropole is Sardis, once the Royall seat

of Croesus the richest King in his time, who in his full prosperity,

was told by Solon, that no man could reckon upon felicity so long as

he lived, because there might be great mutability of Fortune, which

afterward he found true: The recitall of which advertisement, when he

was taken prisoner by Cyrus saved his life: The next City is Pergamus,

where Parchment was first invented, and therefore called Pergamenum:

here was Galen borne, who lived so healthfully one hundreth and forty

yeares: the reason whereof, he thus affixeth; he never eate or drunke

his full, & ever carried some sweete perfumes with him. The other

Townes are Thyatira, Laodicea, and Philadelphia.

Upon the twelfth day after our departure from Constantinople, we

arrived at Smirna, being foure hundreth miles distant.

[The City of Smyrna.] This City was one of the seven Churches mentioned

Revelation 2. 8. And standeth in Ionia: of this place was the famous

Martyr Polycarpus Bishop, who sometimes had bene Schollar to John the

Evangelist: and living till he was of great age, was at last put to

death for Christs sake. It is a goodly place, having a faire Haven

for Ships: They have great trafficke with all Nations; especially for

fine Silke, Cotten wooll, and Dimmety, brought to it by the Countrey

Peasants, which straungers buy from them.

Truely, neare unto this City, I saw a long continuing plaine,

abounding in Cornes, Wines, all sorts of fruitfull herbage, and so

infinitely peopled, that methought Nature seemed, with the peoples

industry to contend, the one by propagating creatures, the other by

admirable agriculture.

That for Commodities and pleasure, it is little inferiour unto the

valley of Suda in Candy, which maketh the inhabitants wondrous

insolent: for as mirth is made of [Wealth is the brother of

vice.] pleasure, and with pleasures all vices are baited; even so

there is not a more incorrigible creature then man in prosperity, nor

so modest nor reformed an one, as he, to whom fortune hath lent but a

sparing and crooked favour, which indeed I hold best of all: for it is

the forming of the mind, not the tongue, nor hand, that can preferre

us to true felicitie: And would to God that these, upon whome none

but faire windes have ever blowne, in the carreire of their supposed

happinesse, could but see for all their high and overtopping places,

their end, and resting place: since they are nought but the arrowes of

the omnipotent arme, that are yet flying not at theirs but his marke;

and no more owners of their owne proposed ends, then they are guilty

of their owne beginnings: surely they would cover their faces with

another kind of maske then they do: and make their actions seeme more

cleare, then the force of policie can obumbrate their wicked devices.

Thiatyra now called Tiria, one also of the seven Churches is not from

Smirna above eighteene miles.

From this Citie (having left my kind English men and their stately

ship that carryed 24. pieces of Ordonance,) I imbarked in a Turkish

Carmoesalo, that carried nothing but her loading, being bound for

Rhodes. In our sayling along the coast of Ionia, the first place of

any note I saw, was [Ephesus decayed.] the ruinous Citie of Ephesus;

yet somewhat inhabited with Greekes, Jewes, and a few Turkes; but no

waies answerable to its former glory and magnificence, being rather

a monument for memory, then a continuing Towne of any excellency:

neverthelesse it is pleasantly adorned with Gardens, faire fields, and

greene woods of Olive trees, which on the Sea doe yeeld a delectable

prospect: It was one of the seaven Churches, Revel. 2. 1. This was

one of the most renowned Cities in Asia the lesser but the same

thereof arose from the Temple of Diana: which for the spaciousnesse,

furniture, and magnificent workmanship was accounted one of the seven

worlds wonders: It was two hundred yeares in building, being foure

hundred twenty five foote long, and two hundred broad: It was seven

severall times burnt, whereof the most part was with lightning, and

lastly the finall destruction of it, came by a base fellow Erostratus,

who to purchase himselfe a name, [Dianaes Temple burnt.] did set

it on fire. Timothy was Bishop of Ephesus, to the people whereof,

Saint Paul directed one of his Epistles, and finally it is famous for

the buriall of Saint John the Evangelist: It was said of this place,

in the Acts of the Apostles, that all Asia, and the whole world did

worship here Diana: Tully reporteth, De natura Deorum, that Timæus

being demanded the reason why the Temple of Diana was set on fire that

night, when Alexander the great was borne: gave this jest thereof,

that the Mistresse of it was from home; because she being the Goddesse

of Midwives, did that night wait upon Olimpias the mother of Alexander

the great, who was brought to bed in Macedonia.

[The Ile Lango or Cuos.] Over against this Citie is the Ile Lango,

aunciently called Coos, wherein the great Hippocrates was borne, and

Appelles, the Painter most excellent. It is both fertile, and populous,

and of circuite above fourescore miles. There is a kind of Serpent

said to be in it, so friendly unto the Inhabitants, that when the men

are sleeping under the shadow of trees, they come cralling, and will

lincke or claspe themselves about their neckes and bodies, without

doing any harme, neither when they awake are the beasts affraid.

And neare to Lango, is the Ile Nixa, of old Strangoli; and by some

called Dronisa and Naxus, an Iland both fruitfull and delightfull. As

we sailed by the West part of the Ile, a Greekish passenger shewed

me the place, where (as he sayd) Ariadne was deceived of Theseus,

which is not farre from the irriguate plaine of Darmille.

Continuing our Navigation, I saw the little Ile Ephdosh,

where the Turkes told me, that all the Ilanders were [Excellent

swimmers.] naturally good swimmers, paying no more tribute to their

great Lord the Turke, save onely once in the yeare there are certaine

men, and women chosen by a Turkish Captaine, who must swimme a whole

league right out in the Sea, and goe downe to the bottome of the

waters, to fetch thence some token they have got ground: And if they

shall happen to faile in this, the Iland will be reduced againe to pay

him yearely rent. This I saw with mine eyes, whiles we being calmed,

there came a man and two women swimming to us, more then a mile of

way, carrying with them (drie above the water) baskets of fruite to

sell, the which made me not a little to wonder. For when they came to

the ships side, they would neither boord, nor boat with us, but lay

leaning, or as it were resting them selves on the sea, upon their one

side, and sold so their fruits: keeping complements and discourses

with us above an houre. Contenting them for their ware, and a fresh

gale arising, we set forward, accoasting the little Ile of Samothracia.

[Samothracia.] This Ile of Samothracia, was called of old Dardania,

and now by the Turkes Samandracho; a place of small note considering

the quantity of the Ile, and the few number of Inhabitants: their

lives being answerable to their meannes; ignorance and servitude;

two strong commanders of infirme weaklings, and no lesse powerfull,

then they are debile in the debt of worthinesse; which the younglings

of understanding, & sucklings of far look'd-to knowledge, can never

be able to escape, although a true profession covereth many naturall

imperfections; and in it a hope for blessednes, which indeed moe wish

for, then rightly understand it. And upon the ninth day after our

departure from Smyrna, we arrived at the City of Rhodes, so called

of the Iland wherein it standeth.

Rhodes lieth in the Carpathian Sea. It was of old called [The Ile

of Rhodes.] Ithrea, Telchino, and Phiula: Plinie saith it was called

Rhodes, because there were certaine fields of Roses in it; for Rhodos

in the Greeke tongue signifieth a Flower: Not farre from the City, and

at the entery of the Haven, [The Idoll Collossus.] I saw the relicts

of that huge, and admiredly erected Idoll, named Colossus Rhodius,

or the mighty image of the Sunne; which was made in honour thereof:

from the which Saint Paul termed the Inhabitants Collossians. It was

builded by the worthy Canete Lindo in the space of twelve yeares:

others have said, of Callasses the Disciple of Lisippus, taking the

name Collossus of him, and it was thought worthy to be one of the

seven earthly wonders, and so it might justly have beene: The quantity

whereof (as yet) may amaze the minde of the beholder: It was erected

in the Image of a man, being eighty cubits high, and so bigge, that

the little finger of it was as bigge as an ordinary man: between whose

legs, (it standing in the harbours mouth, with a legge on each side of

the entery) Shippes were wont to passe under with taunt sayles: When

Mnavi Generall of Caliph Osmen first united this Ile to the Mahometan

Empire, and broke downe the greatest part of this statue; the brasse

whereof was said to be so much that it loaded nine hundred Camells.

This Ile belonged once to the Knights of Malta, and were then surnamed

Knights of the Rhodes, but they came first out of Acre in the Holy

Land; who were called Knights of St. John; who viriliously expulsed

the Saracens from thence, Anno 1308. who had formerly taken it from

the devided Grecians: These Knights sorely invested the Turkes for

the space of two hundred yeares, till Solyman the magnificent, at

last invaded and subdued it: The Rhodians were ever great friends to

the Romanes, insomuch that when all the other Mediterranean Ilands

revolted to Mithridates of Pontus, this onely adhered to the Romanes.

This Ile of Rhodes within the space of 25. yeares was three

times mightily indangered by violent and extreame [Inundation of

waters.] impetuosities of raine: in such sort that the last flood

did drowne the greatest part of the Inhabitants: which beginning

in the Spring-time, did continue to Summer, and in all this time,

it broke violently downe their houses, and in the night killed the

people lying in their beds; and in the day time such as were sheltered

under safegard of their dwellings: which was a miserable destruction,

and the like of it scarcely heard of since the universall deludge.

But true it is, as these ominous judgements falling upon particular

parts & parcells of people, are justly executed; yet they serve for

Caveats for all others in generall, (sinne being the originall of

all) to take heed of offending the Creator, in abusing the best use

of the Creature.

The Citie of Rhodes hath two strong Fortresses, in one of which these

Knights (Lilladamus Villiers being great Master, who were about

five hundred onely, and five thousand Rhodians who asisted them)

were besieged by an Armie of two hundred thousand Turkes, and three

hundred Galleys, for the space of sixe months. The chiefe obstacle, and

impeaching of so great an Army from taking it, was onely the resolute

valour of the defendants. But in end multitude overmastring valour,

and the Cavalieri di Rhodo, wanting furniture to their munition, and

being penurious of victuals, were constrayned to render, upon the

conditionall safety of their lives, goods, and transportation; and

remained a long time without any habitation, till the King of Spaine

gave them the barren Ile of Malta to inhabite: This Ile of Rhodes was

lost by the Maltezes, Anno Dom. 1522. [Rhodes taken by Solyman.] And

on Christmas day Solyman entred the Towne as conquerour, though he

might justly have said (as Pyrhus once said of his victory over the

Romanes) that such another victory would utterly have undone him;

he lost so many of his bravest Commanders, and best Souldiers. It

is ever since in the fruition of Turkes: The Fortresse of Rhodes,

and that Fortresse Famogusta, in Cyprus, are the two strongest holds,

in all the Empire of the great Turke.

And by the way here I must record, that if the great Turke, and his

great Counsell, were not good pay-masters to their Janizaries, and

speedy rewarders of their common Souldiers; it were impossible for

him the Emperour, or them the Bassawes to menage so great a state,

and to keepe under obedience so head-strong a multitude, & such

turbulent forces: for by your leave, [Souldiers should be regarded &

rewarded.] if a Souldiers industry be not quickned and animated with

bountifull rewards; he hath lesse will to performe any part of Martiall

service; then a dead coarse hath power to arise out of the grave: for

what can be more precious to man, then his blood, being the fountaine

& nurse of his vitall spirits, & the ground of his bodily substance;

which no free or ingenious nature wil hazard to lose for nothing.

And whosoever shall argument or discourse upon sound reason, and

infallible experience, may easily prove and perceive, that these

Commanders have ever best prospered, which have most liberally

maintayned, and had in singular regard, Military Arts and Souldiers;

otherwise the honourable mind, would account it a great deale better to

have death without life, then life without reward: yea, and the noble

Commander, desiring rather to want, then to suffer worth unrecompensed.

Rhodes joyneth neare to the continent, over against Caria, now called

Carmania, under which name the Turkes comprehend Pamphilia, Ionia,

and Lycia: Caria by the Sea side, hath Lycia to the South, and Caria

to the North: The chiefe Cities are Manissa, and Mindum, which having

great gates, being but a small Towne, made Diogenes the Cynick crie

out. Yee Citizens of Mindum, take heed, that your City run not out of

your gates: The third is Hallicarnasso, where Dionisius was borne,

who writ the History of Rome for the first three hundred yeares:

Of which Towne also the Province tooke the name; for Artemisia, who

ayded Xerxes against the Grecians, was by some Authors named Queene of

Hallicarnasso. This was she, [Mausolaos Tombe.] who in honour of her

husband Mausolao, built that curious Sepulcher, accounted for one of

the worlds wonders; it being twenty five cubits high, and supported

with thirty sixe admirable wrought pillars.

After I had contented the Master for my fraught, and victuals (who

as he was an Infidell, used me with great exaction) I found a Barke

of the Arches purposed to Cyprus, with the which I imbarked, being

foure hundred miles distant.

This Tartareta, or Demi galleyeot, belonged to the Ile of Stagiro,

aunciently Thasia, wherein there were mines of gold, in these times

that afforded yearely to Philip King of Macedon, about fourescore

talents of gold, but now mightily impoverished and of no consequence:

The chiefe Towne whereof is Palmapreto, where diverse Greekes hold

the opinion, Homer was interred, having a famous Sea-port, which is

a common resting place for all the Orientall Pirats or Cursaroes;

which maketh the Ile halfe desolate of people; and these few scarce

worthy of their dwellings.

[Pamphilia & Lycia.] Having past the gulfe of Sattelia, and the Ile

Carpathia, whence that part of the Sea taketh his name: we boorded

close along the coast of Lycia, and the firme land of fruitfull

Pamphilia; the chiefe Citie of Lycia is Patras, watred with the river

Zanthus, whence the people were called Zanthi, afterward Lycians

of Lycus sonne to Pandion: It lieth twixt Caria and Pamphilia, as

Pamphilia lyeth betweene it and Cilicia: The chiefe Towne in Pamphilia

is Seleucia, built by Seleucus, one of Alexanders successours: on the

East of Lycia within land bordreth Lycaonia, &c. Having left Pamphilia

behind us, we fetched up the coast of Cylicia, sustaining many great

dangers, both of tempestuous stormes, and invasions of damnable Pirats,

who gave us divers assaults to their owne disadvantages; our saylage

being swifter, then either their swallowing desires could follow,

or our weake and inresolute defence could resist.

Here in this Countrey of Cilicia, was Saint Paul borne in the now

decayed Towne of Tharsus, who for antiquity will not succumbe to

any City of Natolia, being as yet the Mistresse of that Province,

though neither for worth, nor wealth.

All auncient things by Time revolve in nought

As if their Founders, had no founding wrought.

But thou torne Tharsus, brookes a glorious name,

For that great Saint, who in Thee had his frame:

So may Cilicians joy, the Christian sort,

That from their bounds, rose such a mighty Fort.

Twelve dayes was I betweene Rhodes and Limisse in [The description of

Cyprus.] Cyprus; where arrived, I received more gracious demonstrations

from the Ilanders, then I could hope for, or wish, being farre beyond

my merit or expectation; onely contenting my curiosity with a quiet

mind, I redounded thankes for my imbraced courtesies.

The people are generally strong and nimble, of great civility,

hospitality to their neighbours, and exceedingly affectionated

to strangers. The second day after my arrival, I tooke with me an

Interpreter, and went to see Nicosia, which is placed in the midst

of the Kingdome. But in my journey thither, extreame was the heate

and thirst I endured; both in respect of the season, and also want

of water: And although I had with me sufficiency of Wine, yet durst I

drinke none thereof, being so strong, and withall had a tast of pitch;

and that is, because they have no barrels, but great Jarres made of

earth, wherein their Wine is put. And these Jarres are all inclosed

within the ground save onely their mouthes, which stand alwayes open

like to a Source or Cisterne; whose insides are all interlarded with

pitch to preserve the earthen vessells unbroke a sunder, in regard of

the forcible Wine; yet making the taste thereof unpleasant to liquorous

lips; and turneth the Wine, too headdy for the braine in digestion,

which for health groweth difficult to strangers; and to themselves

a swallowing up of diseases.

To cherish life and blood, the health of Man,

Give me a Tost, plung'd in a double Cann,

And spic'd with Ginger: for the wrestling Grape

Makes Man, become from Man, a sottish Ape.

Nicosia is the principall Citie of Cyprus, and is invironed with

mountaines, like unto Florence in Ætruria; [The sixe Cities of

Cyprus.] wherein the Beglerbeg remaineth: The second is Famegusta,

the chiefe strength and Sea-port in it: Selina, Lemisso, Paphos,

and Fontana Morosa, are the other foure speciall Townes in the Iland.

This Ile of Cyprus was of old called Achametide, Amatusa, and by some

Marchara, that is happy: It is of length extending from East to West,

210. large 60. and of circuit 600. miles. It yeeldeth infinite canes

of Sugar, Cotten-wooll, Oyle, Honney, Cornes, Turpentine, Allum,

Verdegreece, Grogranes, store of Mettals and Salt; besides all

other sorts of fruit and commodities in abundance. It was also named

Cerastis, because it butted toward the East with one horne: and lastly

Cyprus, from the abundance of Cypresse trees there growing. This Iland

was consecrated to Venus, where in Paphos she was greatly honoured,

termed hence, Dea Cypri,

Festa Dies Veneris tota celeberrima Cypro,

Venerat, ipsa suis aderat Venus aurea festis.

Venus feast day, through Cyprus hollowed came,

Whose feasts, her presence, dignified the same.

Cyprus lyeth in the gulfe betweene Cilicia and Syria, having Ægypt to

the West: Syria to the South: Cilicia to the East: and the Pamphilian

Sea to the North: It hath foure chiefe Capes or headlands: first,

Westward the Promontore of Acanias, modernely Capo di Santo Epifanio:

to the South the Promontore Phæuria, now Capo Bianco: to the East

Pedasia, modernely Capo di Greco: to the North, the high foreland

of Cramineon, now Capo di Cormathita: these foure are the chiefest

Promontores of the Iland, and Cape di S. Andrea is the furthest

poynt Eastward toward Cilicia: Diodore and Pliny say that anciently

it contained nine Kingdomes, and fifteene good Townes: Cerania,

now Selina, was built by Cyrus, who subdued the nine petty Kings of

this Ile: Nicosia is situate in the bottome or plaine of Massara,

and thirty foure miles from Famagusta; and the Towne of Famagusta was

formerly named Salamus: I was informed by some of sound experience

here, that this Kingdome containeth about eight hundreth and forty

Villages, besides the sixe capitall Townes, two whereof are nothing

inferiour for greatnesse and populosity to the best Townes in Candy,

Sicily, or Greece.

[Trohodos a huge hill in Cyprus.] The chiefest and highest mountaine

in this Ile, is by the Cypriots called Trohodos, it is of height

eight, and of compasse forty eight miles, whereon there are a number

of Religious Monasteries, the people whereof are called Colieros,

and live under the order of Saint Basile. There is abundance here of

Coriander seede, with medicinable Reubarbe, and Turpentine. Here are

also mines of gold in it, of Chrysocole, of Calthante, of Allome,

Iron, and exceeding good Copper. And besides these mines, there are

diverse precious stones found in this Ile, as Emeraulds, Diamonds,

Chrystall, Corall, red and white, and the admirable stone Amiante,

whereof they make Linnen cloth, that will not burne being cast into

the fire, but serveth to make it neate and white.

The greatest imperfection of this Ile, is scarcity of water, and too

much plenty of scorching heate, and fabulous grounds. The Inhabitants

are very civill, courteous, and affable; and notwithstanding of their

delicious and delicate fare, they are much subject to Melancholy,

of a Robust nature, and good Warriours, if they might carry Armes:

It is recorded, that in the time of Constantine the Great, this Ile

was all uterly abandoned of the Inhabitants, and that because it did

not raine for the space of sixe and thirty yeares. After which time,

and to [Cyprus replanted.] replant this Region againe, the chiefest

Colonies came from Ægypt, Judea, Syria, Cilicia, Pamphilia, Thracia,

and certaine Territories of Greece: And it is thought, in the yeares

1163. after that Guy of Lusingham, the last Christian King of Jerusalem

had lost the Holy Land, a number of French men, stayed and inhabited

here; of whom sprung the greatest race of the Cyprian Gentility;

and so from them are discended the greatest Families of the Phenician

Sydonians, modernely Drusians: though ill divided, and worse declined;

yet they are sprung both from one Originall: the distraction arising

from Conscience of Religion, the one a Christian, the other a Turke.

The three Iles of Cyprus, Candy, and Sicily, are the onely Monarchicke

Queenes of the Mediterranean Seas: [Comparisons of Iles.] and semblable

to other in fertility, length, breadth, and circuit: save onely Candy

that is somewhat more narrow then the other two, and also more Hilly

and sassinous: yet for Oyles and Wines, she is the Mother of both

the other: Sicily being for Graine and Silkes the Empresse of all:

and Cyprus for Sugar and Cotton-wooll, a darling sister to both;

onely Sicily being the most civill Ile, and nobly gentilitat, the

Cypriots indifferently good, and the Candiots the most ruvid of all.

The chiefe Rivers are Teno, and Pedesco: Cyprus was first by Teucer

made a Kingdome, who after the Trojane Warre came and dwelt here: and

afterward being divided betweene nine petty Princes, it was subdued

by Cyrus, the first Monarch of the Meedes and Persians. After the

subversion of which Empire, this Ile was given to the Potolomies of

Ægypt: from whom Cato conquered it to the benefit of the Romans. [The

Dukes of Savoy were Kings of Cyprus.] The Dukes of Savoy were once

Kings of Cyprus; but the Inhabitants usurping their authority, elected

Kings to themselves, of their owne generation: and so it continued,

till the last King of Cyprus, James the Bastard (marrying with

the daughter of a noble Venetian, Catherina Cornaro) died without

children, leaving her his absolute heire. And she perceiving the

factious Nobility, too headstrong to be bridled by a female authority,

like a good child, resigned her Crowne and Scepter to the Venetian

Senate, Anno 1473. Whereupon the Venetians imbracing the opportunitie

of time, brought her home, and sent Governours thither to beare sway

in their behalfe; paying onely as tribute to the Ægyptian Sultans

40000. Crownes, which had been due ever since Melecksala, had made

John of Cyprus his tributary.

It was under their Jurisdiction 120. yeares and more; till that the

Turkes, who ever oppose themselves against Christians (finding a fit

occasion in time of peace, and without suspition in the Venetians)

tooke it in with a great Armado. Anno 1570. and so till this day by

them is detayned. Oh great pitty! that the usurpers of Gods word,

and the worlds great enemy, should maintaine (without feare) that

famous Kingdome, being but one thousand & fifty Turkes in all, who

are the keepers of it: unspeakable is the calamitie of that poore

afflicted Christian people under the terrour of these Infidels; who

would, if they had Armes, or asistance of any Christian Potentate,

easily subvert and abolish the Turkes, without any disturbance; yea,

and would render the whole Signiory thereof to such a noble Actor. I

doe not see in that small judgement, which by experience I have got,

but the redemption of that Countrey were most facile; if that the

generous heart of any Christian Prince, would be moved with condigne

compassion to relieve the miserable aflicted Inhabitants. In which

worke, he should reape (questionlesse) not onely an infinite treasure

of Worldly commodities, that followeth upon so great a conquest,

but also a heavenly and eternall reward of immortall glory. [The

Florentines attempted to conquer Cyprus.] The which deliverance

Ferdinando Duke of Florence, thought to have accomplished (having

purchased the good will of the Ilanders) with five Gallounes, and

5000. Souldiers: Who being mindfull to take first in the Fortresse of

Famogusta, directed so their course, that in the night, they should

have entred the Haven, disbarke their men, and scale the walles.

But in this plot they were farre disappointed by an unhappy Pilot of

the Vice-admirall, who mistaking the Port, went into a wrong bay: which

the Florentines considering, resolved to returne, and keepe the sea,

till the second night; but by a dead calme, they were frustrated of

their aymes, and on the morrow discovered by the Castle: Whereupon

the Turkes went presently to armes, & charged the Inhabitants to

come to defend that place: But about foure hundred Greekes in the

West part, at Paphos, rebelled; thinking that time had altered their

hard fortunes, by a new change: but alas, they were prevented, &

every one cut off by the bloody hands of the Turkes. This massacre

was committed in the yeare 1607. Such alwaies are the torturing

flames of Fortunes smiles, that he who most affecteth her, she most,

and altogether deceiveth: But they who trust in the Lord, shall be

as stable as Mount Syon, which cannot be removed; and questionlesse,

one day God, in his all-eternall mercie, will relieve their miseries,

and in his just judgements, recompence these bloody oppressors with

the heavy vengeance of his all-seeing Justice.

In my returne from Nicosia, to Famogusta, with my Trench-man,

we encountered by the way with foure Turkes, who needs would have

my Mule to ride upon; which my Interpreter refused: But they in a

revenge, pulled me by thee heeles from the Mules backe, beating me

most pittifully, and left me almost for dead. In this meanewhile my

companion fled, and escaped the sceleratnesse of their hands; and

if it had not beene for some compassionable Greekes, who by accident

came by, and relieved me, I had doubtlesse immediately perished.

Here I remember betweene this Ile and Sydon that same Summer,

there were five galleouns of the Duke of [A sea cumbat.] Florence,

who encountred by chance the Turkes great Armado consisting of

100. gallies, 14. galleots, and two galleasses: The Admirall of which

ships did single out her selfe from the rest, and offered to fight with

the whole Armado alone; but the Turkes durst not, and in their flying

backe, the Admirall sunke two of their gallies; and had almost seazed

upon one of their galleasses, if it had not beene for 20. gallies, who

desperatly adventured to row her away against the wind and so escaped.

For true it is, the naturall Turkes were never skilfull in menaging

of Sea battells, neither are they expert Mariners, nor experimented

Gunners, if it were not for our Christian Runnagates, French, English,

and Flemings, and they too sublime, accurate, and desperate fellowes;

who have taught the Turkes the airt of navigation, and especially

the use of munition; which they both cast to them, & then become

their chiefe Cannoniers; the Turkes would be as weake and ignorant

at sea, as the silly Æthiopian, is unexpert in handling of armes

on the Land. [Christiane Runagates.] For the private humour of

discontented castawayes is alwaies an enemy to publicke good, who

from the society of true beleevers, are driven to the servitude of

Infidells, and refusing the bridle of Christian correction, they

receive the double yoake of dispaire and condemnation. Whose terrour

of a guilty conscience, or rather blazing brand of their vexed soules,

in forsaking their Faith, and denying Christ to be their Saviour,

ramverts most of them, either over in a torment of melancholy,

otherwise in the extasie of madnesse: which indeed is a torturing

horrour, that is sooner felt then knowne; and cannot be avoided by

the rudenesse of nature, but by the saving grace of true felicity.

[The City of Tripoly.] From the Fort and City Famogusta, I imbarked

in a Germo, and arrived at Tripoly being 88. miles distant, where

I met with an English ship called the Royall Exchange of London,

lying there at Anker in the dangerous Road of Tripoly, whose loves

I cannot easily forget, for at my last good night, being after great

cheare, and greater carrousing, they gave me the thundring farewell

of three pieces of Ordonance. Tripoly is a City in Syria, standing a

mile from the marine side, neere to the foot of Mount Libanus: since

it hath beene first founded, it hath three times beene situated,

and removed in three sundry places: First it was overwhelmed with

water: Secondly, it was sacked with Cursares, and Pirates: Thirdly,

it is like now to be overthrowne with new made mountaines of sand:

There is no haven by many miles neere unto it, but a dangerous roade,

where often when Northerly winds blow, ships are cast away.

[Scanderona.] The great Traffique which now is at this place, was

formerly at Scanderona or Alexandretta, a little more Eastward;

but by reason of the infectious ayre, that corrupted the bloud of

strangers, proceeding of two high Mountaines; who are supposed to be

a part of Mount Caucasus, which withhold the prospect of the Sunne

from the In-dwellers, more then three howers in the morning. So that

in my knowledge, I have knowne dye in one ship, and a moneths time,

twenty Marriners: for this cause the Christian ships were glad to

have their commodities brought to Tripoly, which is a more wholesome

and convenient place.

The dayly interrogation I had here, for a Carravans departure to

Aleppo, was not to me a little fastidious, being mindfull to visite

Babylon: In this my expectation I tooke purpose, with three Venetian

Merchants, to go see the Cedars of Libanon, which was but a dayes

journey thither. As we ascended upon the mountaine, our ignorant

guide mistaking the way, brought us in a Laborinth of dangers;

Insomuch that wrestling amongst intricate paths of Rockes: two of our

Asses fell over a banke, and broke their neckes: And if it had not

bene for a Christian Amaronite, who accidently encountred with us,

in our wilesome wandring, we had bene miserably lost: both in regard

of Rockes, and heapes of snow we passed; and also of great Torrents,

which fell downe with force, from the steepy tops: wherein one of

these Merchants was twice almost drowned. When we arrived [The Cedars

of Libanus.] to the place where the Cedars grew, we saw but twenty

foure of all, growing after the manner of Oke-trees, but a great deale

taler, straighter, and greater, and the braunches grow so straight,

and interlocking as though they were kept by Arte. And yet from the

Roote to the toppe they beare no boughes, but grow straight upward,

like to a Palme-tree; who as may-poles invelope the ayre, so their

circle spred tops, do kisse or enhance the lower cloudes; making their

grandure over-looke the highest bodies of all other aspiring trees:

and like Monarchick Lyons to wild beasts, they become the chiefe

Champions of Forrests and Woods.

Although that in the dayes of Salomon, this mountaine was over-clad

with Forrests of Cedars, yet now there are but onely these, and

nine miles Westward thence, seventeene more. The nature of that tree

is alwayes greene, yeelding an odoriferous smell, and an excellent

kind of fruite like unto Apples, but of a sweeter taste, and more

wholesome in digestion. The Rootes of some of these Cedars are almost

destroyed by Sheepheards, who have made fires thereat, and holes

wherein they sleepe; yet neverthelesse they flourish greene above

in the tops, and branches. The length of this mountaine is about

forty miles, reaching from the West, to the East: and continually,

Summer and Winter, reserveth Snow on the tops. It is also beautified

with all the ornaments of nature, as Herbage, Tillage, Pastorage,

Fructiferous Trees, fine Fountaines, good Cornes, and absolutely the

best Wine that is bred on the earth. [The Prince of Libanus.] The

Signior thereof is a Freeholder, by birth a Turke, and will not

acknowledge any superiour, being the youngest sonne of the Emeere

or Prince of Sidon, who when his Father revolted against Achmet,

and not being able to make his owne part good, fled into Italy,

to the Duke of Florence: And notwithstanding that the elder brother

yeelded up Sidon, and became a pardond subject to the great Turke:

yet this the other brother would never yeeld nor surrender, himselfe,

the Fort, nor the Signiory of Libanus: The olde Prince his father

after two yeares exile, was restored againe to his Emperours favour;

with whom in my second Travels, both at Lygorne and Messina in Sicilee,

I rancountred: whence the Duke of Sona that Kingdomes Viceroy, caused

transport him on a stately ship for the Levant to Sidon: The Sidonians

or Drusians, were first of all French men, who after their expulsion

from Jerusalem, fled hither to the borders of Zebulon and Nephtalim,

now called Phenicia, as I shall make more cleere afterwards.

The most part of the inhabited villages are Christians,

[Nestorians.] called Amaronites, or Nostranes, quasi Nazaritans,

and are governed by their owne Patriarke. There are none at this

day, do speake the Syriack tongue, save onely these people of mount

Libanus; and in that language the Alcoran of Mahomet is written. The

kinde Amaronite whom we met, and tooke with us for our best guide, in

descending from the Cedars shewed us many caves and Holes in Rockes,

where Coliers, religious Siriens and Amaronites abide: Amongst these

austere Cottages, I saw [Joshuas Tombe.] a faire Tombe all of one

stone, being 17. foote of length; which (as he said) was the Sepulcher

of the valiant Joshua, who conducted the people of Israel to the land

of promise.

The Mahometans esteeme this to be a holy place, and many resort to it

in Pilgrimage, to offer up their Satanicall Prayers to Mahomet. I saw

upon this Mountaine, a sort of fruite, called Amazza Franchi: that is,

The death of Christians; because when Italians, and others of Europe,

eate any quantity thereof, they presently fall into the bloudy fluxe,

or else ingender some other pestilentious fever, whereof they dye.

The Patriarke did most kindly entertaine us at his house; so did

also all the Amaronites of the other Villages, who met us in our way

before we came to their Townes, and brought presents with them of

Bread, Wine, Figges, Olives, Sallets, Capons, Egges, and such like,

as they could on a sudden provide.

[The Bishop of Eden on Libanus.] This Bishop or Patriarkes house,

is joyned with and hembd in, within the face of an high Rocke,

that serveth for three sides thereof, the fore and fourth part being

onely of Mason-worke: Neare unto which falleth precipitatly a great

Torrent over the sassinous banke, that maketh a greivous noyse night

and day: which as I told him, me thought it should turne the Bishop

Surdo or starke deafe: But the homely and simple man (not puft with

ambition greed, and glorious apparrell, like to our proud Prelats of

Christendome) told me, that continuall custome brought him to despose

upon the day, and sleepe better in the night, because of the sounding

waters. Where reposing with him one night, my Muse the next morning

saluted Libanus with these lines.

Long and large Mount, whose rich-spred mantle, see!

Affords three colours, to my wandring eye;

The first are Cornes, in their expectant view,

Faire Barley, Rye, and Wheate; O hopefull hew!

That quickneth the prest plough: and for to eat,

It makes new toyle, begin againe to sweat:

The second sight are Wines, the best on earth,

And most delicious in their pleasant birth;

They're Phisicall, and good t'expell all sorts

Of burning Feavers, in their violent torts:

Which Senators of Venice, drinke for health,

There's nought so rare, but is attaind by wealth.

The third is amiable, O verdure greene!

For pastorage, the best that can be seene;

Drawne nigh the tops, where fire-worne Cedars grow,

And here, or there, some cooling spots of snow:

Whence Rills doe spring and speedy Torrents fall

To loose scorchd floures, that burning heat would thrall:

Here heards frequent, whose pleasant toyles doe rest

Of mountaines all, on Liban, onely best:

Where piping Pan, and Silvan doe accord,

To lurke with Ceres, and make Bacchus Lord;

Pitch'd under silent shades; whence Eden Towne

These bounds for Paradice, dare firmely crowne:

And last, to count these colours; here's delite,

The fields are greene, wines yellow, cornes as white.

[The Nestorian paradice.] About the Village of Eden, is the most

fruitfull part of all Libanus, abounding in all sorts of delicious

fruits. True it is, the variety of these things, maketh the silly

people thinke, the Garden of Eden was there: By which allegeance,

they approve the apprehension of such a sinistrous opinion with these

arguments, that Mount Libanus is sequestrate from the circum-jacent

Regions, and is invincible for the height, and strengths they have in

Rocks; and that Eden was still reedified by the fugitive Inhabitants,

when their enemies had ransacked it: Also they affirme before the

deluge it was so nominate, and after the flood it was repaired

againe by Japhet, the sonne of Noah, who builded Joppa, or Japhta

in Palestina. Loe there are the reasons they shew strangers for such

like informations.

[The Georgians Paradice.]

There are with this one, other two supposed places of the earthly

Paradice: The one is by the Turkes, and some ignorant Georgians,

holden to be at Damascus, for the beauty of faire fields, gardens,

and excellent fruits there; especially for the tree called [The Tree

Mouslee.] Mouslee, which they beleeve hath growne there since the

beginning of the world. Indeed it is a rare and singular tree, for I

saw it at Damascus, and others also of the same kind, upon Nylus in

Ægypt: The growth whereof is strange: for every yeare in September it

is cut downe hard by the roote, and in five moneths the tree buddeth

up a pace againe, bringing forth leaves, flowers, and fruite. The

leafe thereof is of such a breadth, that three men may easily stand

under the shadow of it, and the Apple is bigger then a foot-ball,

which is yearely transported for Constantinople to the great Turke;

and there is reserved for a relict of the fruit of the forbidden tree;

whence he surstyles himselfe keeper of the earthly Paradice.

But if he were not surer a greater commander and reserver of a large

part of the best bosome of the earth, than he is keeper of that

Adamian Garden; his styles of the earth, and mine of the world, were

both alike, and that were just nothing, save onely this, two naked

creatures living amongst naked people: or otherwise, if it were to

be kept or seene, certainely I would wish to be a Postillion, to the

great Porter, the Turke, but not his Pedagog, farre lesse his Pilgrime.

[The Chelfane Paradice.] The third place by the Chelfaines, is thought

to be in the East part of Mesopotamia, neere to the joyning of Tygris,

and Euphrates; where, so they inhabite: I have oft required of these

Chelfaines, what reason they had for this conceived opinion: who

answered me, they received it from time to time, by the tradition of

their Ancestors: And because of the river Euphrates, and other rivers

mentioned in the Scriptures, which to this day, detayne their names

in that Countrey. Some hold, that Garden of Eden extended over all

the earth. But contrariwise, it manifestly appeareth by the second

Chapter of Genesis, 2. 20. that this garden, that we call Paradice,

wherein Adam was put to dresse it, was a certaine place on earth,

containing a particular portion of a Countrey, called Eden, which

boundeth on the river Euphrates. To this, and all the rest, I answer,

no certainty can be had of the place where Eden was, either by

reading or travelling, because this river hath beene oft divided in

sundry streames: And it is said, that Cyrus, when he wonne Babylon,

did turne the maine channell of Euphrates to another course. But

howsoever, or wheresoever it be, I resolve my selfe, no man can

demonstrate the place, which God for the sinnes and fall of man,

did not onely accurse; but also the whole face of the earth.

Many ancient Authors have agreed with the opinion of Plato

and Aristotle, constantly affirming, that mountaines, Ilands,

and Countries, have received great alteration by [Violence of

Seas & waters.] the inundation of Rivers, and violence of raging

Seas. Thracia, hath beene divided from Bithinia: Nigroponti, from

Thessalia: Corfu, from Epire: Sicilia, from Italy: The Iles Orcades,

from Scotland, and many other Ilands, and Countries cut through so in

divisions after the same forme. Wherefore the more a man contemplate

to search the knowledge of Eden, and such high misteries (appertaining

onely to the Creator) the more he shall faile in his purpose, offend

God, become foolish, and fantasticall for his paines.

But to turne backe to mine itinerary relation, after my returne to

Tripoly, I departed thence Eastward, with a Caravan of Turkes to

Aleppo, being ten dayes journey distant. In all this way (leaving

Scanderon on our left hand) I saw nothing worthy remarking; save onely

a few scattered Villages, and poore miserable people called Turcomani,

living in Tents, and following their flockes to whom I payed sundry

Caffars who remove their women, children, and cattell where so they

finde fountaines, and good pastorage: like unto the custome of the

ancient Israelites: Which in their vagabonding fashion, did plainely

demonstrate the necessity they had to live, rather then any pleasure

they had, or could have in their living.

They differ also in Religion from all the other Mahometans in two

damnable points: [The Turcomans opinion of God & the Divell.] The one

is, they acknowledge, that there is a God, and that he of him selfe is

so gracious, that he neither can, being essentially good doe harme,

nor yet will authorize any ill to be done, and therefore more to be

loved than feared: The other is, they confesse there is a Divell, and

that he is a tormentor of all evill doers: and of himselfe so terrible

and wicked, that they are contented even for acquisting his favour

and kindnesse, to sacrifice in fire their first borne child to him:

soliciting his divellishnes, not to torment them too sore when they

shall come into his hands: And yet for all this, they thinke afterwards

by the mercy of Mahomet, they shall goe from hell to Paradice.

In this immediate or aforesayd passage, we coasted neare and

within sixe miles of the limits of Antiochia, [Antiochians the

first Christians.] one of the ancient Patriarch seas; so called of

Antiochus her first founder, and not a little glorying to this day,

that the Disciples of Jesus and Antiochians were first here named

Christians. Who (nothwithstanding) of their grievous afflictions

flourished so that in 40. yeares they grew a terrour to their enemies;

who suggested by the Divell cruelly afflicted them with ten generall

persecutions, under the Emperours, Nero anno 67. Domitianus, anno

96, Trajanus, 100. Maximinius, 137. Marcus Antonius, 167. Severus,

195. Decius, 250. Valerianus, 259. Aurelianus, 278. and Dioclesian

anno 293. yeares. Notwithstanding all which massacres and martyrdome,

yet this little graine of Mustard seed, planted by Gods owne hand, and

watered with the blood of so many holy Saints, (Nam sanguis Martirum,

semen Ecclesiæ est) grew so great a tree, that the branches thereof

were dispersed through every City, and Province of the whole world.

Before my arrivall in Aleppo, the Caravan of Babylon was from thence

departed, which bred no small griefe in my breast: The Venetian

Consull, to whom I was highly recommended, by the aforesaid Merchants,

(having had some insight of my intended voyage) informed me, that the

Caravan stayed at Beershake on Euphrates, for some conceived report

they had of Arabs, that lay for them in the desarts, and willed me to

hire a Janisary, and three Souldiers to overhye them; whose counsell

I received, [Frustrate of Babylon.] But was meerely frustrated of my

designes. True it was, they staied, but were gone three dayes before

my comming to that unhappy place.

The distance from whence over land to Babylon, or Bagdat, being but

sixe small or short dayes journey, the losse whereof and the damnable

deceit of my Janizary made my Muse to expresse, what my sorrowfull

Prose can not performe.

The doubts and drifts of the voluble mind

That here and there doe flee, turne judgement blind:

Did overwhelme my heart, in grim despare

Whilst hope and reason fled, stayd timrous care:

And yet the grounds were just; my treacherous guide

Did nought but crosse me; greed led him aside:

Still this, still that I would! all I surmise

Is screwaly stopt: At last my scopes devise

To make a Boat, to beare me downe alone

With drudges two, to ground-chang'd Babylon:

That could not be, the charges was too great,

And eke the streame, did nought but dangers threat:

My conduct still deceavd me, made it square

Another Caravan, O! would come there

From Aleppe, or Damascus: till in end

Most of my moneyes did his knavery spend:

Thus was I tost long five weekes, and foure dayes

With strugling doubts: O strange were these delayes!

At last a Chelfane came, a Christian kind

Who by my griefe soone understood my mind;

And told me flat, the Janizaries drift

Was to extort me with a lingring shift.

Come, come, sayd he, the Sanzacke here is just,

Let us complaine, for now complayne you must:

He with me went, and for a Trenchman serv'd

And told the Ruler, how my Conduct swervd:

He's calld, and soone convinc'd, and with command

Forc'd to transport me backe to Syriaes land:

I'me there arrived, and eftsoones made me bound

For the Venetian Consul: there to sound

My great abuses, by this Villane done.

Which soone were heard, and eke repayrd as soone:

The Bassaw was upright, and for times sake

He did me more, then conscience will'd me take.

My plaint preferd, he was in Prison layd

And all my gold, to give me backe was mayd

Which he had falsely tane: where for his paines

He had the losse, and I receivd the gaines:

For doubling his wrongs, done, to crosse him more,

I got my vantage, from his craft before:

And for his ten weekes fees, no more he had

Than he, thats owner of a ditch-falne jade:

Thus leaving him, I with the Consull bode,

Full forty dayes, or I went thence abroad.

In the eleven dayes journey I had betweene Aleppo, and Beershack,

through a part of Syria, the breadth of Mesopotamia, and Chelfania, a

Province of the same, joyning with Tigris and Euphrates, and returning

the same way againe; I found nothing worthy of remarkinge save the

fertility of the soyle: [Mesopotamia.] which indeed in Mesopotamia,

yeeldeth two crops of wheate in the yeare, and for a Bushell sowing,

in diverse places, they recoyle a hundreth againe.

The countrey it selfe is overcled with infinit Villages, having no

eminent Towne of any note or consequence, except the City of Carahemen

the seat of a Beglerbeg, who commandeth under him fourteene Sanzacks,

and twenty sixe thousand Timariots. The people here are for the most

part beleevers in Christ, but alas too silly, untoward, and ignorant

Christians: And yet though without learning, or great understanding

therein, they are wonderfull zealous in their profession, and great

sufferers for it also.

[Beershack.] This barbarous Towne of Beershacke, being situate

on Euphrates standeth in the Chelfaines Countrey, and is supposed

to have beene Padan-aram, where Laban dwelt, and where Jacob kept

Labans sheepe, though some interpret all Mesopotamia, then to have

beene called Padanaram: from whence North-east, and not farre hence

are the demolished fragments of Ninivie on Tigris, whose very ruines

are now come to ruine: The decayes whereof being much semblable to

that sacked Lacedemon in Sparta, or to the stony heapes of Jerico,

the detriments of Thebes, the relicts of Tyrus, or to the finall

overthrow of desolate Troy. This Countrey of Chelfaine, is the place

most agreeable with Scripture, where the earthly Paradice was once set,

though now impossible to be found out.

[Mesopotamia.] Mesopotamia is seldome watered with raine, but by the

nature of the soile is marvellous fruitfull: It is bordred with Caldea,

on the East: Euphrates on the South: Syria on the North: and Arabia

Petrea on the West. This Aleppo is a City in Syria; the name of which

hath beene so oft changed by Turkes, that the true Antiquity of it,

can hardly be knowne: It is both large and populous, and furnished

with all sorts of merchandize, especially of Indigo, and Spices,

that are brought over land from Goa, & other places in India, which

draweth a concurrance of all nations to it.

[A notable obedience.] Here I remember of a notable obedience done to

the great Turke, by the great Bassaw of Aleppo, who was also an Emeere,

or hereditary Prince: to wit, the yeare before my comming hither,

he had revolted against his Emperour, and fighting the Bassawes

of Damascus, and Carahemen, overcame them: The yeare following,

and in my being there, the Grand Signior sent from Constantinople

a Showse, and two Janisaries in Ambassage to him: where, when they

came to Aleppo, the Bassaw was in his owne Countrey at Mesopotamia:

The messengers make hast after him, but in their journey they met him

comming backe to Aleppo, accompanied with his two sonnes, and sixe

hundred Horse-men. Upon the high way they delivered their message,

where he stood still, and heard them: The proffer of Achmet was,

that if he would acknowledge his rebellion, and for that treason

committed send him his head, his eldest Sonne should both inherit his

possessions, and Bassawship of Aleppo, otherwise he would come with

great forces in all expedition, and in his proper person he would

utterly raze him and all his, from the face of the earth.

At which expression, the Bassaw knowing that he was not able to

resist the invincible Armie of his Master, and his owne presence, he

dismounted from his horse, and went to counsell with his sonnes, and

nearest friends: where he, and they concluded, it was best for him to

dye, being an old man, to save his race undestroyed, and to keepe his

sonne in his authority and inheritance: This done, the Bassaw went to

prayer, and taking his leave of them all, sate downe upon his knees,

where the Showse [The Bassa of Aleppo beheaded.] stroke off his head,

putting it in a Boxe, to carry it with him for Constantinople. The dead

corps were carried to Aleppo and honourably buried, for I was an eye

witnesse to that funerall feast: And immediatly thereafter, the Showse

by Proclamation and power from the Emperour, fully possessed the sonne

in his Fathers lands, offices, Bassawship, and the authority of all

the Easterne Syria, part of Mesopotamia, and the Assyrian Countrey;

for this Bassaw of Aleppo is the greatest in commandement and power

of all the other Bassawes in the Turkes dominions; except the Bassa,

or Beglerbeg of Damascus; and yet the former in hereditary power,

farre exceedeth the other; being a free Emeer, and thereupon a Prince

borne: The force of his commandement reacheth to eighteene Sanzacks,

and thirty thousand Timariots, besides Janisaries, and other inferiour

souldiers, which would make up as many more.

This City is called in the Scriptures Aram-Sobab, 2. Sam. 8. 3. and

Aleppo of Alep, which signifieth milke, whereof there is a great plenty

here: There are Pigeons brought up here as after an incredible manner,

who will flie betweene Aleppo, and Babylon, being thirty dayes [Flying

Pigeons with letters.] journey distant in forty eight houres: carrying

letters and newes, which are tied about their neckes, to Merchants

of both Townes, and from one to another; who onely are imployed in

the time of hasty and needfull intendements; their education to this

tractable expedition is admirable, the flights and arrivals of which

I have often seene in the time of my wintering in Aleppo, which was

the second Winter after my departure from Christendome.

[Syria.] Syria hath on the East Armenia major: On the South

Mesopotamia: On the North Cilicia and the sea: On the West Gallilee

and Phoenicia: In the Bible the Syrians are called Aramites, who were

an obscure people subject to the Persians, and subdued by Alexander:

after whose death this Countrey, with Persia, and other adjacent

Provinces fell to the share of Seleucus Nicanor; who also wrested

from the successors of Antigonus, the lesser Asia. This Kingdome hath

suffered many alterations, especially by the Persians, Grecians,

Armenians, Romanes, Ægyptians, lastly, by the Turkes, and dayly

molested by the incursive Arabs.

In my expectation here, and the Spring come, (being disappointed of my

desired aimes) I pretended to visite Jerusalem in my backe-comming;

and for the furtherance of my determination, I joyned with a Caravan

of Armenians, and Turkes, that were well guarded with Janisaries,

and Souldiers; of whom some were to stay at Damascus by the way,

and some mindfull to the furthest marke. And for my better safegard

(being alwaies alone which by all, was ever much admired) the Venetian

Consull tooke surety of the Captaine, that he should protect me

safely from theeves, cut-throates, and the exactions of tributes by

the way, delivering me freely into the hands of the Padre Guardiano at

Jerusalem: Which being done, I hired a Mule from a Turke, to carry my

victuals; and so set forward with them. The number of our company [A

Caravan of Armenians.] were about 900. Armenians, Christian Pilgrimes,

men and women: 600. Turkes trafficking for their owne businesse,

and 100. souldiers, three Showsses, and sixe Janizaries, to keepe

them from invasions.

Betweene Aleppo and Damascus, we had nine dayes journey, in five of

which, we had pleasant travelling, and good Canes to lodge in, that had

beene builded for the support of Travellers, and are well maintained:

But when we passed Hamsek, which is a little more then midway, we

had dangerous travelling, being oft assailed with Arabs, fatigated

with rocky mountaines, and sometimes in point of choaking for lacke

of water. The confusion of this multitude, was not onely grievous in

regard of the extreame heate, providing of victuals at poore Villages,

and scarcity of water, to fill our bottles, made of Boare-skinnes;

but also amongst narrow and stony passages, thronging, we oft fell

one over another, in great heapes; in danger to be smothered: yea;

and oftentimes we that were Christians, had our bodies well beaten,

by our conducting Turkes. In this journeying I remember the Turke who

ought my Mule, was for three dayes exceeding favourable unto me, in

so much, that I began to doubt of his carriage, fearefully suspecting

the Italian Proverbe.

Chi mi famiglior, che non ci suole,

Ingannato mi ha, o ingannar mi Vuole.

He that doth better now, to me than he was wont,

He hath deceiv'd, or wil deceive, me with some sad affront.

But when I perceived, his extraordinary service and [Pagan

flattery.] flattery, was onely to have a share of the Tobacco I carried

with me, I freely bestowed a pound thereof upon him: Which he and his

fellowes tooke as kindly, as though it had beene a pound of gold, for

they are excessively adictted to smoake, as Dutch men are to the Pot:

which ever made me to carry Tobacco with me, to acquist their favour,

over and above their fials, more then ever I did for my owne use:

for in these dayes I tooke none at all, though now as time altereth

every thing, I am (Honoris Gratia) become a courtly Tobacconist; more

for fashion then for liking: The Turkish Tobacco pipes are more than a

yard long and commonly of Wood or Canes, beeing joynd in three parts,

with Lead or white Iron; their severall mouths receaving at once, a

whole ounce of Tobacco; which lasteth a long space, and because of the

long pipes, the smoake is exceeding cold in their swallowing throates.

At our accustomed dismounting to recreate our selves, and refresh

the beasts, I would often fetch a walke, to stretch my legs, that

were stifled with a stumbling beast; wherewith the Turkes were

mightily discontented, and in derision would laugh, and mocke me:

For they cannot abide a man to walke in turnes, or stand to eate;

their usage being such, that when they come from the horse backe,

presently sit downe on the ground, folding their feete under them,

when they repose, dine, and suppe. So doe also their Artizans and all

the Turkes in the World sit allwayes crosse legged, wrongfully abusing

the commendable consuetude of the industrious Tailors. In their houses

they have no bed to lye on, nor chaire to sit on, nor table to eate on,

but a bench made of boords along the house side, of a foot high from

the floore, spred over with a Carpet; whereon they usually sit eating,

drinking, sleeping, resting, and doing of manuall exercises, all in

one place. Neither will the best sort of Mahometans be named Turkes,

because it signifieth banished in the Hebrew tongue, and therefore

they call [Turkes are called Musilmans.] themselves Musilmans, to wit,

good beleevers: where in deed for good, it is a false Epithite, but

certainely for firme beleevers they are wonderfull constant; and so

are all ignorants of whatsoever profession: even like to the Spaniard,

who in the midst of all his evills, yet he remaineth alwaies fidele

to all the usurpations, the Hispanicall Crowne can compasse.

They never unclothe themselves when they goe to rest, neither have

they any bed-clothes, save onely a coverlet above them: I have seene

hundreds of them after this manner, lie ranked like durty swine,

in a beastly stie, or loathsome Jades in a filthy stable.

Upon the ninth day (leaving Cotafa behind us on the mountaines)

we entred in a pleasant Plaine of three leagues of length, adorned

with many Villages, Gardens, and Rivers; and arriving at Damascus, we

were all lodged (some in Chambers wanting beds, and others without,

on hard stones) in a great Cane called Heramnen, where we stayed

three dayes. Having all which time given us twice a day provision

for our selves and provender for our beasts gratis; being allowed by

the Grand Signior to all kind of strangers whatsoever; that come to

Damascus with any Caravan; being a singular comfort and advantage to

weary and extorted Travellers.

[Damascus is called Shamma.] Damascus is the Capitall Citie of

Syria, called by Turkes, Shamma, and is situated on a faire Plaine,

and beautified with many Rivers on each side, (especially Paraphar

and Abdenah) excellent Orchards, and all other naturall objects of

elegancy: That for situation, Artizens, all manner of commodities,

and varietie of fruits, in all the Asiaticall Provinces it is not

paralelled. By Turkes it is called, the Garden of Turkie, or rather

their earthly Paradice, because of a fenced Garden there, where a

Garison of Turkes lie continually keeping that tree Mouslee, whereon as

they alledge the forbidden Aple grew, wherewith the Serpent deceived

Eve, and shee Adam, and from whence the great Turke is also styled,

keeper of the terrestriall Paradice.

[The antiquitie of Damascus.] Some hold this Citie was built by

Eleazer the servant of Abraham; and other say it is the place

where Caine slew Abel, where indeed it is most likely to be so:

for hard by Damascus I saw a pillar of Brasse erected there for a

commemoration of that unnaturall murther of Cain executed upon his

innocent brother. But howsoever I perswade thee, it is a pleasant

and gallant Citie, well walled, and fortified with a strong Castle,

wherein the Bassaw remaineth: the most part of the streets are covered,

so that the Citizens are preserved in Summer from the heat, and in

Winter from the raine.

The like commoditie (but not after that forme) hath Padua in Lombardy:

Their Bazar, or Market place is also covered, so are commonly all the

Bazars or Bezestans in Turky: The best Carobiers, Adams Apples, and

Grenadiers that grow on the earth is here: neare unto the Bazar there

is a Moskie called Gemmah, wherein my Guide shewed me the Sepulcher of

Ananias, and the Fountaine where he baptized Paul: In another street,

I saw the house of Ananias, which is but a hollow Celler under the

ground, and where the Disciples let Paul downe through the wall in

a basket: In the street where they fell their Viæno, my Interpreter

shewed me a great gate of fine mettall, which he sayd was one of

the doores of the Temple of Salomon, and was transported thence,

by the Tartarians, who conquered Jerusalem about three hundred and

eighty yeares agoe, who for the heavy weight thereof, were enforced

to leave it here, being indeede a relicke of wonderfull bignesse:

And I saw also such aboundance of Rose-water here in barrels, to be

sold, as beere or wine is rife with us.

This Paradisiat Shamma, is the mother City, and most beautiful place

of all Asia, resembling every way (the tectures of her Houses excepted

being platforme) that matchlesse patterne and mirrour of beauty, the

City of Antwerp. The onely best Shables, or short crooked swords, that

be in the world are made here; and so are all other their weapons,

as halfe Pikes, Bowes, and Arrowes, and Baluckoes of steele, that

Horse-men carry in their hands: their shafts being three foot long,

their heads great and round, and sharply guttered; wherewith they use

to braine or knocke downe their enemies in the field. [The forces of

the Bassa of Damascus.] The Beglerbeg or Bassa of Damascus, is the

greatest of commandement of all other Bassaes in Asia: Having under

his authority (as he is under his Emperour) twenty two Sanzacks,

and they conducting under all the aforesayd three, forty thousand

Timariots or Horse-men, besides two thousand Janizaries, which are

the guard of the Bassa, and Garrison of the Citty. His Beglerbership

extendeth over the greater halfe of Syria, a part of the two Arabiaes

Foelix and Petrea, Phenicia, Galilee, Samaria, Palestina, Judea,

Jerusalem, Idumea, and al the Northerne parts of Arabia Desartuous,

even to the frontiers of Egipt.

The meanes of the preservation of so great a state, is only by an

induced confidence upon the power, and force of those Timariots who

as well have their pay and locall grounds of compensation in time

of tranquillitie, as warres, to defend these Countries, from the

incursions of the wilde Arabs, which evermore annoy the Turkes,

and also Strangers: and cannot possibly be brought to a quiet,

and well formed manner of living; but are continuall spoilers of

these parts of the Turkes Dominions. That mischiefe daily increaseth,

rather then any way diminisheth. They taking example from the beastly

Turkes, adde by these patterns more wickednesse, to the badnesse

of their owne dispositions: [Savage Arabian Robbers.] So that every

one of these Savages, according to his power, dealeth with all men

uncivilly & cruelly, even like a wildernesse full of wilde beasts,

living all upon rapine and robbery, wanting all sense of humanity,

more then a shew of appearance: Whereby being combind together,

doe tyrannize over all, even from the red Sea to Babylon.

Thus they in that violent humour, invading also these of Affricke,

hath caused Grand Cayro to be furnished with thirty thousand Timariots,

which defend the frontiers of Ægypt and Gozan: Leaving all the Turkes

at Damascus (save onely our Janizaries and Souldiers) within the space

of two houres after our departure from thence travelling in the way

to Jerusalem; the whole Armenians fell downe on the ground, kissing

it, and making many sincere demonstrations of unwonted devotion. At

the which I being amazed, stood gazing, asking my Trench man,

what newes? who replied, saying, it was the place where S. Paul was

converted, which they had (and all Christianes should have) in great

regard. The place was covered with an old Chappell, and,

More like some relict, of exstirpd decay,

Than for a monument, reard for the way.

To blaze on Pauls conversion: yet it's true

The worke was done, even by the Christiane Jew,

Or Jacobine: a circumcised kind,

Who beare to franks, a most respective mind:

Three dayes were we betwixt Damascus, and the East part of Galilie,

which is the beginning of Canaan: in two of which three, we encountred

with marishes and quagmires, being a great hinderance to us: This

barren, and marish Countrey, is a part of Arabia Petrea, comming

in with a point betweene Galilee, and Syria, running along even to

the South-west skirt of Libanus, which indeed in that place, farre

more than Jordan divideth the true Syria from Canaan; this Petrean

Countrey it selfe, devalling even downe to the limits of Jacobs bridge,

cutteth away the denomination of Syria, from this parcell of ground,

till you come Eastward to the more laborious Plaines.

[A dangerous way.] Through this passage, it is most undoubtedly a very

theevish way; for as we travelled in the night, there were many of

us forced to carry burning lights in our hands, and our souldiers had

their Harquebuzes ready to discharge: all to affray the blood-thirsty

Arabians, who in holes, caves, and bushes, lie obscured, waiting for

the advantage upon Travellers: not unlike unto the Lawlesse Wood Carnes

in Ireland. This part of Arabia is called Petrosa, because it is so

rockie, and some thinke of Petra the chiefe Towne: It was aunciently

divided in two regions Nabathia, and Agara, possessed first by the

Hagarens, discended of Abraham and Hagar: It is also thought to be

the land of the Midianites whether Moses fled to, and kept sheepe; and

Mount Horeb is here, whereon the Lord did shew him the land of Promise.

Divers of these Petrean Arabs, converse, and dwell amongst the Turkes;

whom we tearme in respect of the other, civill Arabs. South from hence,

lieth Arabia Fælix bordering with the Indian Sea; which is the most

fruitfull and pleasant soyle in all Asia; abounding with Balsamo,

Myrrhe, and Frankincense, Gold and Pearles, especially about Medina,

the second Citie to Meccha: The other Townes of note are Horan, the

chiefe Port of the South Ocean, And Alteroch, the only Towne where

Christians are in greatest number in that Countrey.

Truely with much difficulty, and greater danger passed we these [Arabia

Petrea.] Petrean journeys. Here I remarked a singular qualitie,

and rare perfection, in the carefull conduction of our Captaine;

who would, when we came to any dangerous place, give the watch-word

of St. Johanne, meaning as much thereby, that none should speake or

whisper after that warning under the paine of a Harquebusado. And no

more we durst, unlesse he had stretcht out his hand, making us a signe

(when occasion served) of liberty, least by our tumultuous noyse in

the night, our enemies should have the fore-knowledge of our comming;

and knowing also that the nature of a multitude, bred all times

confused effects, without some severe punishment. Him selfe rod stil

in the Vangard, upon a lusty Gelding, with two Janizaries, and forty

Souldiers, and the other foure Janizaries and sixty Souldiers, were

appointed to be the backe-gard, for feare of sudden assaults. Thus,

most dexteriously discharged he the function of his calling, not with

insolencie, but with prudent and magnanimous virilitie: for my part,

I must needs say, the diligent care of that benigne Caravan extended

over me, was such, that whensoever I remember it, I am not able to

sacrifice congratulations sufficiently to his well-deserving mind:

yet in the meane while, my Purse bountifully rewarded his earnest

endevours; and notwithstanding, of this high conceived regard,

yet in some frivolous things, and for a small trifle, he privately

wronged me, which I misknew, as unwilling (knowing his disposition,

and that my life hung in his hands) to be too forward to seeke a

redresse. For oftentimes an [A corrupted Caravan.] inconvenience is

most convenient; and as the great corrupter of youth is pleasure,

and the violent enemy of age is griefe; even so are the inordinate

desires of inconscionable strangers toward Travellers, who preferring

avarice above honesty, care onely for that part of a man which is

his fortune, whose friendship beginning onely in an outward show,

must end in the midst of a mans money; as who would say, such like

were rather imployed, as their imployments rewarded, and therefore in

unlawfull things they must sucke the honey of their owne preposterous

ends: And thus it fared with him, at the paying of my tributes,

by the way for my head, he caused me oft to pay, more then reason,

to the Moores, Turkes, and civill Arabs, receiving secretly backe

from them the over-plus; which my Turkish Servant perceiving, made

my Trenchman tell me, that I might be fore-seene therein.

But such is the covetous nature of man, that with his covenant he

cannot be contented, unlesse he seeke otherwise, by all unlawfull

meanes to purchase himselfe an unjust gaine: But the high respect

I had of his other perfections, made me oversee and winke at that

imperfection of avaritiousnesse in him; and especially remembring my

selfe to be under his protection, I alwayes endeavoured my aimes so,

that in his sight, I wonne extraordinary favour: insomuch, that in

danger, or securitie, he would ever have me neere by him, which I

also craved, and strove to observe the points of his will, and my

owne safety.

The obligation of my bounden duety, taught me to no other end, then

ever to respect the benevolence of his affection, and to suppresse my

owne weake judgement, which could never mount to the true acquittance

of his condigne merit.

But to proceed in my Pilgrimage, on the aforesaid third day, in the

after-noone, we entred in Galilee, passing along a faire Bridge, that

is over the River Jordan, which divideth a part of this stony Arabia

from Galilee. [Jacobs Bridge.] This Bridge by the Armenians, is called

Jacobs Bridge; and not farre hence, they shewed me the place, where

Jacob wrestled with the Angell, and where Esau met his brother Jacob,

to have killed him being upon the East side of the River: Jordan is

scarcely knowne by the name in this place: but afterward I saw his

greater growth, ending in Sodome, whereof in the owne place, I shall

more amply discourse: Betweene Jacobs Bridge and Jerusalem, we had

sixe dayes journey, five whereof were more pleasant than profitable,

in regard of the great tributs I payd by the way for my head, that at

sundry places and into one day, I have payd for my freedome in passage

twelve Chickens of gold, amounting to five pounds eight shillings

of English money: A journall tribute more fit for a Prince to pay,

than a Pilgrime; the admiration onely resting upon this, how I was

furnished with these great moneyes I dayly disbursed.

Aprill the eighteene day, according to the computation of the Romane

Calender, and by ours, March the eight and twenty, I entred in Galilee,

a Province of Canaan; This Countrey was first called Canaan from

Canan the sonne of Cham: secondly the Land of Promise, because it was

promised By the Lord to Abraham and his seed to possesse: Thirdly,

the land of Israel, of the Israelites, so called from Jacob, who was

surnamed Israel: Fourthly, Judea, from the Jewes, or the people of the

tribe of Judah: Fifthly, Palestine quasi Philistim, the land of the

Philistins. And now sixtly, terra sancta, the holy land, because herein

was wrought many wonderfull miracles, but especially the worke of our

salvation. It is in length 180. and in breadth 60. miles: yet of that

salubrity of aire and fertility of soyle, flowing with milke and hony,

that before the comming of the Israelites it maintayned thirty Kings,

with their people, and afterward the two potent Kingdomes of Israel and

Judah; in which David numbred one million and 300000. fighting men,

besides them of the tribe of Benjamin and Levi: It is most certayne,

that by the goodnesse of the Climate and soile, especially by the

[Canaan greatly changed.] blessing of God, it was the most fruitfull

Land in the World: but by experience, I find now the contrary, and the

fruitfulnes thereof to be changed, God cursing the Land together with

the Jewes, then the (but now dispersed) inhabitants thereof. Neither

are the greatest part of these Easterne countries so fertile, as

they have beene in former ages, the earth as it were growing olde,

seemeth weary to beare the burthen of any more encrease; and surely

the two eyes of Day and Night, with the Planets, and Starres, are

become neyther so forcible, so bright, nor warme as they have beene:

Time from olde antiquity, running all things to devasted desolation,

making the strong things weake, and weake things feeble, at last it

returneth all things to just nothing: and there is the end of all

beginnings, and an infallible Argument of the dissolution to come by

the day of judgement.

As things that are, still vanish from our eye,

So things that were, againe shall never be:

The Whirlwind of Time, still so speedy posts,

That like it selfe, all things therein, it tosts.

The Jewes are also tearmed Hebrai, or Hebrewes from Heber one of

Abrahams Progenitors, or Hebræ quasi Abrahæi: who at their discent

into Egypt, were but seventy soules being the issue of Jacob, and

his twelve Sonnes. The posterity of which Patriarchy, continued

in bondage two hundred and fifteene yeares, till in the yeare

of the world, two thousand foure hundred fifty three: At which

time, the Lord commiserating their heavy oppressions under the

Egyptians, delivered them with a strong hand, and placed them here:

which then was inhabited by the Hittites, Amorites, Perisits, and

Jebusits. [The Holy Land.] Canaan is divided into five Provinces,

viz. Judea, Galilee, Palestina, Samaria, and Phenicia: Some divide

it only in three, Palestina, Judea, and Galilee: It hath beene by

others also nominated in generall, Syria, by which Calculation,

they gathered all the Countries from Cilicia to Egypt under that

name. But howsoever they differ in Descriptions, it is most certayne,

that at this day, it is onely, and usually divided into these five

particular Provinces: Galilee, and Palestina, for the present, are

the most fertile and largest Provinces thereof, especially Galilee,

which in some parts, yeeldeth graine twice a yeare, and for abundance

of Silke, Cotton-woole, delicate Wines, Hony, Oyle, and fruites of

all kindes; I hold it never a whit more decayed now, than at any

time when the glory of Israel was at the highest: This province of

Galilee is forty eight miles long, and twenty five broad, having

Phenicia to the North: Samaria to the west: Jordan to the South:

and to the East and North-East, a part or poynt of Arabia-Petrosa,

and the South-west end of Libanus.

After we had travailed a great way, along the Lake of Genasareth,

which is of length eight leagues, and large foure: where I saw the

decayed Townes of Bethsaida, and Tyberias, lying on the North-side of

the same Sea, we left the Marine, and came to Cana, to stay all night:

in which wee had no Canes to save us from the Arabs, nor coverture

above our heads, but the hard ground to lye on, which was alwayes

my Bed, in the most parts of Asia: In the night, when we slept, the

Souldiers kept Centinell, and in the day, when we Reposed, they slept,

and we watched.

[Cana in Galilee.] This Cana was the towne wherein our Saviour wrought

the first Miracle, converting at the Marriage, Water into Wine: And is

now called by the Turkes Callieros or Calinos, being a towne composed

of two hundred fire Houses: The inhabitants beeing partly Arabs,

partly Jewes, and partly some Christian Georgians: the circumjacent

fieldes, beeing both Fertile, Delectable, and plaine.

The day following, imbracing our way, wee passed over a little pleasant

Mountayne, where the Armenian Patriarke (for so was there one with

them) went into an old Chappell, and all the rest of the Pilgrimes

thronged about him, using many strange Ceremonies, for it was in

that place (as they sayd) Where Christ fed five thousand people,

with five Barley loaves, and two fishes. And indeede was very likely

to have beene the place: the auncient Chappell, showing as yet some

beautiful decorements, do dignifie both the Monument, and the Memory

of the Founder thereof.

Continuing our journey, wee saw Mount Tabor on our left hand, which is

a pretty round Mountaine, beset about with comely trees: I would gladly

have seene the Monument of that place, where the Transfiguration of

Christ was: But the Caravan, mindfull to visite Nazareth, left the

great way of Jerusalem, and would by no perswasion go thither.

That night we lodged in a poore Village, called Heerschek, where we

could get neither meate for our selves, nor provender for the Beasts,

but some of our Company for their supper, had a hundred stroakes from

the Moores and Arabs in that place, because the Christian Pilgrimes

had troden upon the graves of their dead friends, which by no meanes

they can tollerate: They made no small uproare amongst us, desperately

throwing stones and darts, till we were all glad to remove halfe

a mile from that place; and the next morning we passed by [Cæsarea

Philippi.] Cæsarea Philippi which is now so miserably decayed, that the

ruined Towne affordeth not above twenty foure dwelling houses, being

for ruines, a second Towne, to sacked Samaria, or another spectacle

of time like to the now ragged Towne of the Moorish Bethulia: It was

built by Philip one of the Tetrarchs in honour of Tiberius Cæsar,

and now called by the Moores Hedarasco. Here was Herod smitten by the

Angels, and eaten of wormes, after the Sycophanticall people called

his Rethoricall oration, the voyce of God, and not of man: Here our

Saviour healed the woman of the bloody fluxe, and raised from death

to life the daughter of Jairus: Here S. Peter baptized Cornelius,

and S. Paul disputed against Tertullius in the presence of Felix.

Aprill the 20. day, about ten of the clocke, (passing the River Kyson)

we arrived at Nazareth, and there reposed till the evening, providing

our selves of victuals and water: In this Towne dwelt Joseph, and the

Virgin Mary; and in which also our Saviour was brought up under the

vigilant care of Joseph and Mary. After wee had dined, the Armenians

arose, and went to a heape of stones, the ruines of an old house,

before the which they fell downe upon their knees; praysing God:

And that ruinous lumpe (say they) was the house where Mary dwelt,

when Gabriel saluted her, bringing the Annunciation of Salvation to

the World: I am fully perswaded, they carried away above five thousand

pounds weight, to keepe in a [A counter buffet for Loretta.] memoriall

thereof: then did I remember of the Chappell of Loretta, and told

the Caravan, that I saw that house standing in Italy, which (as the

Romanists say) was transported by the Angels: O, said he, we Armenians

cannot beleeve that, neither many other assertions of the Roman Church;

for we certainely know by Christians, that have from time to time

dwelt here ever since, that this is both the place, and stones of the

house: Let Papists coyne a new Law to themselves, we care not, for

as they erre in this, so doe they erre in all, following meerely the

traditions of men, they runne galloping post to Hell. The Patriarke

being informed by the laughing Caravan of these newes, asked me in

disdaine (thinking it had beene an Article of my beliefe) if I saw

that house, or beleeved that the Chappell of Loretta was such a thing:

to whom I constantly answered, I did not beleeve it, affirming it was

onely but a divellish invention, to deceive the blind-folded people,

and to fill the Coffers of the Romane Priests: Now thou bottomlesse

Gulfe of Papistry, here I forsake thee, no Winter-blasting Furies

of Satans subtile stormes, can make ship-wracke of my Faith, on the

stony shelfes of thy deceitfull deepes.

Thus, and after this manner too: are all the illusions of their

imaginary and false miracles, first invented partly by monasteriall

poverty, then confirmed by provincial bribery, and lastly they are

faith-sold for consistoricall lucre. In the time of our staying here,

the Emeere or Lord of the Towne sent sixe women, conducted by 12. of

his servants, to an Armenian Prince, that was a Pilgrime in our

company; to be used by him and others, [Libidinous leachery.] whom so

he would elect to be his fellow labourers: Which indeed he did kindly

accept, & invited me to that feast: but I gave him the refusall,

little regarding such a frivolous commodity. He, and some of the

chiefest Pilgrimes entertained them for the space of 3. houres, and

sent them backe, giving to their conductors fifteene Piasters, in a

reward. Truely if I would rehearse the impudency of these Whoores,

and the bruitishnesse of the Armenians, as it is most ignominious to

the actors; so no doubt, it would be very loathsome to the Reader.

Such is the villanie of these Orientall slaves under the Turkes;

that not onely by conversing with them, learne some of their damnable

Hethnicke customes, but also going beyond them in beastly sensualnesse,

become worse then bruite beasts: This maketh me remember a worthy

saying of that Heathnish Romane Emperour Marcus Aurelius, who in

consideration of fleshly lusts, said; that although he were sure, that

the Gods would not punish him for the offence; yet he would forbeare

it, in regard of the filthinesse of the fact it selfe: Indeed of a

Pagane a noble and vertuous resolution, when such base and beastly

Christianes, these wretched Armenians, committed with these Infidelish

harlots a twofold kind of voluptuous abhomination, which my conscience

commands me to conceale: least I frequent this Northern world, with

that which their nature never knew, nor their knowledge have heard

hearing of the like: but God in his just judgements, that same night,

threatned both to have punished the doers, and the whole company

for their sakes: For we having resolved to travell all that night,

and because the way was rocky, and hard to be knowne, and perillous

for Arabs; we hired a Christian guide, named Joab, and agreed with

him to take us to Lidda, which was two dayes journey. But before we

advanced to our passage, Joab had sent a privie messenger before us,

to warne about three hundred Arabs (who had their abode on the South

side [A villanous plot.] of Mount Carmell) to meete him at such a

place as he had appointed; giving them to know, wee were rich and well

provided with Chickens and Sultans of gold, and Piasters of silver;

and that he should render us into their hands for such a recompense

and consideration, as their savage judgements should thinke fit;

according to the spoyles and booties they should obtaine, together

with the miserable murder and losse of our lives. This being done, and

unknowne to us, we marched along, travelling faster then our ordinary

pace, some on horse, and some on foote, for my pilgrimage was ever

pedestriall: which our guide suspecting, that by our celerity wee

should goe beyond the place appointed for his treacherous plot, began

to crosse us grievously; leading us up and downe amongst pooles and

holes, whither he listed; where many of our Camels & Asses were lost,

and could not be recovered, because we all began to suspect and feare;

which was the cause that the owners durst not stay to relieve their

perishing beasts.

In the end, the Captaine and Janisaries, intreated him earnestly

to bring us in the right way; but the more they requested, the more

obdurat was his heart, replying, he was mistaken, and could not finde

it, till day light: upon the which words, the company was stayed,

and in the meanewhile there came a Turke, one of our Souldiers unto

the Captaine, saying; he saw the guide, before our [A treacherous

guide.] departure from Nazareth, send a Moore before him, for what

respect he knew not, being long at privat conference. Whereupon,

they straight bound him with ropes, on a horse backe, threatning him

with death, to cause him confesse the trueth.

In the midst of this tumult, I having got sight of the North-starre,

(which seemd exceeding low to me) considered thereby, that the

villaine had led us more to the Southward, then to the Westward,

which was our way to Jerusalem: Whereupon I intreated the Caravan to

turne our faces Northward, otherwise we should be cut off, and that

suddenly: for although (said I) it may peradventure be, that we are

three or foure miles short of the place intended for our massacre,

yet they missing us, will like ravening Wolves hunt here and there;

wherefore, if we incline to the North, (God willing) we shall prevent

their bloody designes. To the which advice (being duely pondered)

they yeelded; and so I became their guide, in that darke night,

till morning: for none of them knew that Starre, neither the nature

of it. At last this desperate wretch considering that either by our

vanquishing, or the enemies victory, he could not escape, sith his

treason was revealed; began to beg pardon of the Caravan, saying that

if he could have any surety of his life, he would sufficiently informe

us, how to eschew these eminent dangers, for we were all in extreame

perill of our lives; and not so much courage nor comfort left us,

as the very smallest hope of any reliefe.

The Captaine being distracted with feare, replied he would, and

thereupon swore a solemne oath, so did the Janisaries sweare by the

head of Mahomet, for the like effect: Which being done, he was untied,

and confessed, that if we had continued in our way, he led us, wee

had beene all put to the edge of the Sword: and falling down on his

knees, cried oft with teares, mercy, mercy, mercy.

All that night we went with the Starre, and against morning wee were in

the Westerne confines of Phoenicia, and at the beginning of Palestine,

close by the marine, and within halfe a mile of Tyrus. This sometimes

renowned [Tyrus is called Sur.] Citty of Tyrus, called now by the

Moores Sur, was famous for her Purples, and Collonies dispersed

over all the World by her Citizens; and once a kingdome of great

antiquity and long continuance. The most worthiest of her Kings, were

Hiram in strict bond of Confederacy, with Salomon, and Pigmalion the

brother of Dido, who built Carthage: This seat, giving way to the

Persian Monarchy, was about the overthrow of Darius, beleagured by

Alexander: who had so much adoe with extraordinary expence of men,

money, and great labour to conquer it, being then separated from

the maine Continent, by the Sea, but now joyned to the firme Land:

and before you come to the Citty, there lyeth a great banke of sand,

where it is likely the Sea hath beene in Alexanders time: Though now,

as time altereth every thing, the Sea be fled from that place, which

maketh that ruinous Towne seeme more desolate. At the breach of day,

I, and certaine Armenians went to visite this decayed Towne, and found

the most famous ruines here, that the World for memory can affoord,

and a Delicious incircling Harbour, inclos'd within the middle of

the Towne, fit to receive smal Barkes, Frigots, and Galleots: the

compassing fore-face whereof, beeing all of foure squard Marble and

Alabaster stones: the most part of all which Houses have stood on

pillars of the same stones: the [The ruines of Tyrus.] infinite number

whereof, may as yet bee, (above and below the Sands) perspectively

beheld. There be onely some nineteene fire houses heere, which are

Moores: and is now under the Emeere of the Drusians, who remayneth

in Sydon. The East part of this Countrey aboundeth in Balme, Honny,

and Oyle, and was the Seate of Asher of whom Moses prophecied,

Deut. 33. 24. that hee should dippe his feete in Oyle.

Here these Egyptian Moores, for so they were first bred there: brought

us to a pillar lying upon the ground, of nine severall colours of

Marble, being one intire stone, and the length of it was twenty

two foot of my measure, and eight in compasse: Which sayd they,

was one of the [Sampsons Pillar.] pillars that Sampson pulled downe

upon the Philistines at the houre of his Death. To whom I answered,

that Sampson dyed at Azath, the furthest South-west part of Palestine,

where hee bore downe the House of Dagon, upon the Philistines: And I

thinke the auncient Tyrians, sayd I, could not transport that Pillar

so far hither: But they the more constantly affirmed it, and so did

these Armenians that were with mee confirme it also, some of whom,

had beene twice there before: yet howsoever it was, I brought home

a pound weight of it, and presented the halfe thereof, to King James

of blessed Memory.

Here by accident, in returning backe to the Caravan, I met with

an English Factor, named Maister Brockesse, who then remayned at

Sydon, eighteene miles from this place, and had been downe at Acre,

about some negotiations: Who indeede eftsoones, and kindly tooke mee

into a Moorish House by the Sea side, and one of his acquaintance:

where instantly we swallowed downe such joviall and deep carrouses of

Leaticke wine, that both hee and I, were almost fastned in the last

plunge of understanding: Yet neverthelesse, he conveyed me backe to

my company, and put me safe into the hands of the Caravan, with whom

afterwards I diverse times met with here at London; to whose kindnesse

I celebrate the memory of these lines.

But now the Sunne discovering the earth, and the night banished to the

inferiour world, we were all encouraged, for the light of day lends

comfort: The Captaine (sending backe that false Judas, for so was he

sworne to do) sent a post to Tyrus for a new guide, who came forthwith,

and brought us in our way to Mount Carmell, for by it we [The Towne

of Sarepta.] behoved to go; and in our way we met with the desolate

Towne of Sarepta nigh thereunto adjoyning, where Elias was sustained

in a great famine by a Widdow, whose sonne he raised from death.

Great are the mercies of God, for as he hath made man an excellent

creature, so hath he also indued him with two great powers in his mind:

The one a wise power of understanding, by which he penetrateth into the

knowledge of things: the other a strong power of dexterous resolving;

whereby he executeth things well understood, for we having judged

the worst, resolved the best: and by his Almighty providence were

freed from that apparent danger, although the former dayes whoredome,

and unnaturall vices, deserved a just punishment.

This I intimate to all Travellers in generall, that if they would

that God should further them in their attempts, blesse their voyages,

and graunt them a safe returne to their native Countries (without

the which, what contentment have they for all their paines) that they

would constantly refraine from whoredome, drunkennesse, and too much

familiarity with Strangers: For a Traveller that is not temperate,

and circumspect in all his actions, although he were headed like

that Herculean Serpent Hydra, yet it is impossible he can returne

in safety from danger of Turkes, Arabs, Moores, wild beasts, & the

deadly operative extremities of heat, hunger, thirst, and cold.

Approaching to Mount Carmell, and leaving it upon our right hand

betweene us and the marine coast, I beheld a farre off upon the top

of the hill, the place where Elias ascended to heaven, when he left

his Cloake behind him to Elizeus his disciple. This mountaine is foure

miles of length, lying South and North, the North end bordering with

the Sea, neare to Acre, called anciently Ptolomæis, and the South end

joyning with the borders of Samaria, through the which confine we past.

[Samaria.] Leaving Samaria on our left hand, we entred into a faire

Plaine, adorned with fruitfull trees, and all other ornaments that

pleasant fields affoord, but no Village wee saw. Marching thus about

the declining of the Sunne from the Meridian, we came in sight of two

hundred pavillions, all pitched in rankes; yeelding the prospect of

a little Citie, by a brooke side of water: which being perceived,

the Captaine began to censure what they might be; and immediately

there came riding towards us, sixe naked fellowes, well mounted on

Arabian Geldings, who demanded what wee were? and whither we were bound

with such a multitude; and if there were any Franks of Christendome

in our company. To whom the Janisaries replied, we were purposed to

Jerusalem, and that there was but one Franke with them: Upon the which

they presently sought me, demanding Caffar, Caffar; that was tribute

for my head, & caused me perforce notwithstanding of the resisting

Caravan, and Janizaries, to pay them presently for my life seven

Chickens of gold, seven times nine shillings starling: And this is,

because sayd they our King is resident in these Tents, and therefore

we have tripled his tribute: And yet were they discontented, because

there were no moe franks in our company, for from the Armenians,

they could not, nor would not seeke any tribute, because they were

tributary slaves and subjects to the great Turke: neither also of

any other Christiane borne in his dominions, when they shall happen

to fall into their hands.

They returning backe to their Prince, with the malediction of my heart,

and the sorrow of a Pilgrimes purse, we marching on in our way, that

day wee travelled above thirty foure miles, and pitched at a Village

called Adoash, being composed of threescore Moorish and Arabian houses,

standing in a fruitfull and delicate Plaine; and garnished with Olive,

Date, and Figge-trees, which were both pleasant and profitable: where

we found also good hearbes to eate, and abundance of water to drinke,

and also to fill our emptied bottles: As wee lay downe to sleepe

after a hungry supper, on the hard ground, and our guard watching us;

[The savage Arabian King.] that same King of the Arabians came a

little before mid-night, with twenty foure well horsed Runagats, and

naked Courtiers, being armed with bowes and arrowes, and halfe-pikes,

pointed at both ends with hard Steele; and asked for the Caravan, who

presently awoke, and went to salute him, laying his hand on his breast,

bowed his head very low; which is the usuall courtesie amongst the

Infidels and Christians in these parts: For they never uncover their

heads to any man; and after some short parley, they sate all downe on

the grasse. The Caravan presented his rude like majesty with water,

bread, hearbes, figs, garlike, and such things as he had.

As they were thus merry, at this poore banquet, the awfull King tooke

the Oath of our Conductor, if there were any mo Frankes there then I;

and he having sworne the trueth, The King by a malignant informer,

incontinently caused me to be brought before him; and staring me in the

face, asked my Interpreter where were my companions? Who replied I had

none: then sayd he; tell that dogge, or Elishole, he must acknowledge

me with five peeces of gold more, otherwise (making a signe to his

owne throate) I shall cut off his head, because (sayd he) I will not

loose this nights travell for nothing: The which I being informed,

and knowing that by no condition, there was resistance against such

a scelerate Prince, [Exaction of tribute.] gave it him forth of mine

owne hand, having consulted with my Captaine before, and that presently

with a halfe smiling countenance; which he remarking, told the rest,

it seemed I gave it with a good heart & a chearefull gesture, and to

recompence my outward behaviour, he drunke a great draught of water to

me: thinking thereby, he had done me more honour then all the Chickens

of gold I gave him now, and in the morning; would doe him profit or

pleasure: pleasure they could doe him none, for they were unlawfully

and dishonestly got, and too delivered from the inward sorrow of my

sighing soule; and no wonder, having spent two yeares great charges

in Turky, before this time, but that I should have beene exceeding

penurious of money, and thereupon desolate of reliefe and comfort.

Truely this was one of the greatest tributes I payed for one

dayes journey, that I had in all my voyage, in Asia. [Two Arabian

Kings.] There are two Kings in Arabia, the one who liveth on Euphrates,

the desarts of Mesopotamia, sometimes in Arabia Felix, and in some

parts of Syria: And the other was hee to whom I payd this money

wandereth with his Tribes, Tents, and Bestiall, one while in Arabia

Petrea, and Deserta, and sometimes in the Holy Land, as hee findeth

good pastorage, and fresh Fountaynes. These two Kings are mortall

enemies: and if by accident they meete, they fight most cruelly,

bringing dammage, rapine, and destruction to themselves, and their

followers: For it is a difficult thing in them to dominate their

inordinate passions, beeing untamed Savages, and mis-regarders of

civility, who continually contend to corroborate the malignity of

their dispositions, with bloody and inhumane interprises. And yet

all the rest of that night, after his returne from us, wee still

expected some treacherous surprise, which made our souldiers stand

stoutly on their guard, and wee Pilgrimes to our vigilant and naked

defence: For the Turkes will not suffer Christians to carry weapons

in al these Dominions, neither any where, where they command. And

for all this great tribute, and nights danger of my life, heere was

my present resolution:

The more I am beset, with dreadfull snares

Begirded round, in shelfie gulfes of wracke;

And shipbroke left, on rockes of deep despaires,

Where helples care, with tortring thoughts me racke:

Then stoutly stand I, hoping for the end,

That time will change, and God will better send.

And now by the way I recall the aforesayd Turke, the maister of the

Mule that carried my provision, and on whom in the journey I had

bestowed the most part of my Tobacco: When I had no more to give him,

and he suspecting the contrary, was councelled by his associats to

beate me soundly, and dismount my Victuals and Water from the Mules

backe, till I propined him with the rest, which intention being by me

understood; I forthwith run to the Caravan and complained: whereupon

my friend was bravely belaboured with a cudgell, and my better safety

procured: Thus was his former shew of love quickly expelled, and an

inward grudge suddenly conceived, for it was the smoake, and not my

selfe he respected.

Loves whirling fancies, mortals fondly feed

As marish rootes dissolve, even as they breed:

An humane creature, inhumanely taught,

Is worser given to ill, than evill fraught:

Things in themselves, be not so bad as ill,

The cause exeemd, corruption hath free will:

Mans fraile affection, is a cloudy mist,

Whose vapours fall, and fogge, as passions list:

Bad counsell's worse, than nature ill applies,

Weake judgment dulls, when feare in reason flies:

Thus sad ecclips'd, the darke ecclipsed Moone

Did change, ere mine ecclipsed light was wonne.

At last the Sun-shine, of my silver day,

Came crawling on, as snailes advance the way.

The next morning, when the hopefull Aurore, had fore-showne the

burning birth of glassie Thetis, and that Orient majesty arising to

overcirculate the earth, then marcht we along in our way, and before

mid-day pitched our haire-cloth Tents round about [Jacobs Well.] Jacobs

Well, neare the decayed City of Sychar in Samaria: This Province of

Samaria, is now for the most part quite destroyed and overwhelmed with

mountaines of sand: we found this auncient Well so wondrous deepe,

that scarcely all our ropes could sinke our bucket in the water: The

taste whereof was wondrous cold & sweet, & for Jacobs sake the whole

number of us, drunke more of it, then neede required: The fiery face of

Phoebus declining to the West, we marched through a part of the fields

of Basan, of which Og was last King, a man of such a large proportion,

that his bed being made of iron, was nine Cubits long, and foure broad:

and all that afternoone, wee had exceeding pleasant travailing; and at

night we incamped by Lydda on the fields: Lydda is not above ten miles

from the ruinous Towne of Cæsarea by the sea side, and is now called

by the Turkes and Moores Alferron, being a Village only of sixteene

Moorish Houses. Heere Peter healed the man sicke of the palsie.

[The Sea-port Townes of the Holy Land.] The Townes scituated by

the Sea side in Phoenicia, Palestine, and Judea, are these: Sydon,

which standeth in the Borders of Zebulon, and Nephtalim, or Phoenicia,

beeing a goodly City, and well peopled; and is governed by the Emeere

or Prince of the Drusians: who beeing the off spring of the Christians,

which under the Conduct of Godfrey Duke of Bulloine, discended into

these parts, do still maintayne their liberty against the Turkes: The

Signior whereof being threatned by the Great Turke, fled to Cosmus Duke

of Florence, Anno 1612. leaving his two Sonnes behind him, the eldest

to keepe Sydon, and the younger to remaine in a strong Fortresse, on

the west end of mount Libanus: The elder brother foorthwith yeelded to

the great Turke, the signory of his Lands, but the younger would never

do it, and so retayneth absolutely the Countrey of Libanus to this day,

making himselfe thereupon, a mountainous Monarchicke Prince. Tyrus,

which is miserably brought to ruine: Acre or Acon, that hath yet

some indifferent trade of Merchandize, called formerly Ptolomeis:

Caipha, called commonly Castello Pellegrino, which hath nothing but

the remnants of an auncient Abbay: Cesarea, who reserveth but onely

the memory of ruines, for there is no Hospitality in it, except it

be to savage Moores: Joppa or Japhta, is a Sea-port of small Barkes,

but the decaied Towne, contayneth not one dwelling House, save onely

a high Tower, which defendeth the Port from Cursares: Here Jonah

tooke ship to flye from God: Here Peter raised Tabitha or Dorcas,

from Death to life: and where he lodging at the House of Simon the

Tanner, was in a vision taught the conversion of the Gentiles. And

Baruti famous for so many Christian armies that have besieged it, is

now composed of eight hundred fire houses: Lying North-east of Sydon

under mount Libanus, formerly called Julia Foelix, nigh unto which (as

fabulous stories report) S. George delivered the Kings Daughter, by

killing the Dragon. It is also thought to be within Canaan, standing

in the Frontier of Phoenicia, and is the best inhabited place of all

the holy Land, Sydon and Jerusalem excepted.

Saturday morning before the breach of day, setting forward from Lydda,

through the curling playnes of fat-fac'd Palestine, scarcely were wee

well advanced in [A dreadfull conflict.] our way, till wee were beset

with more then three hundred Arabs, who sent us from shrubby heights

an unexpected shoure of Arrowes, to the great annoyance of all our

Company: For if it had not beene, that our Souldiers shot off their

Gunnes on a sudden, and stood manly also to it, with their Bowes and

Arrowes for our defence, we had then miserably, in the midst of their

ravenous fury perished. But the nature of the Arabs is not unlike

to the Jackals: For when any of them heare the shot of a Harquebuse,

they presently turne backe with such speed, as if the fiendes of the

infernall Court were broken loose at their heeles.

In that momentary conflict, on our side there were killed nine Women,

five men, and about thirty persons deadly wounded, which to our worthy

Armenian Captayne, and to the rest of our Heathnish Conductors bred

no small griefe: the mourning noyse among the multitude, beeing

also wondrous pittifull. Till bright day came, we stayed still in

that same place, (expecting the dangerous mutability of our austiere

fortune: and at our departure thence, wee buried the slayne people

in deep graves, whereby Jackals should not open up their graves,

to eate their Corpes: For such is the nature of these cruel beasts,

that they onely love to live on mans flesh: these ravenous beasts

(as is thought) are ingendred of a Foxe and a Wolfe.

Proceeding in our journey, we entred about two of the clocke in

the afternoone, in the hilly Countrey of Judea, having two of their

courses to Jerusalem, which is about twenty English miles: [The Towne

of Rhama.] leaving Rhama on our right hand, which contayneth some two

hundred dwelling houses of one story high, and ten miles distant from

Joppa, from which it lyeth in the way to Jerusalem: Here remayneth the

Dragoman, a Christian, who receiveth and conveyeth the Pilgrimes to

Jerusalem, which land at Joppa, each Pilgrime paying seaven Chickens

of gold, is furnished with an Asse to ride on, all the way tributes,

at going, and comming being discharged by their Conductor, to whom

they resigne this tributary money.

Rhama is a Towne inhabited by Christians, Arabs, and Moores: not blacke

Moores, as the Affricans be, but they are called Mori, which are a

kinde of Egyptians, and not naturally blacke, but Sunne-burnt, with the

parching heate. The whole Territory of Canaan, is inhabited with these

Moores, some Turkes, civill Arabs, and a few Christians and scattered

Jewes. The Arabians are for the most part Theeves and Robbers, the

Moores cruell, and uncivill, hating Christians to the Death: the

Turkes are the ill best of all the three, yet all sworne enemies to

Christ. But when they know how to make any gayne by strangers: O what

a dissimulate ostentation shall appeare in these detestable Villaines,

whose outsides onely they seeme to affect: but intirely the insides

of their purses: & that is their ayme, and forcible end: wherefore

they both toyle with all, and Conduct strangers through many perils,

as eminent to themselves, as accessary unto our inevitable destinies:

Time discussing all, and mony over-mastering time; for Coyne is the

thing they must have, though necessity sometimes may not spare it.

About foure of the clocke before night, wee arrived at

[Beersheba.] Berah, called of olde Beersheba, being eleaven miles

distant from Jerusalem. Having a little reposed there, giving our

Camels, Mules, and Asses some provender, but could get nothing for our

selves, from these despightfull Moores, (for what wee carried with us,

was all spent) except a little Water: wee imbraced our Mountaynous

way, as cheerefully as wee could, for wee were exceeding faint, and

travailed that day above forty three miles; whereby wee might arrive at

Jerusalem before the Gates were shut, sustaining great drouth, burning

heate, pinching hunger, and not a few other the like inconveniences.

And now about halfe way betweene Berah and Jerusalem, I, and two

Armenians, advancing our way a flight shot before the Company. Wee I

say, unhappily rancountred with foure Moorish fellowes, driving before

them sixe Asses loaden with Rootes, and shrubs of Wood to burne:

who seeing us, as they thought alone, layd hands upon us, robbed us

of our pocket monies: whereat [A grievous danger.] I resisting, one

of them pulled foorth a broad knife, and holding me by the Beard,

thought to have cut my throate, if it had not beene for one of his

fellowes, who swiftly stayed him.

Well, they leave us, and following their Beasts, our Souldiers

instantly appeared unto us; whereupon wee shouting, the Moores fled

to the Rocks, and our foot Souldiers following, apprehended two of the

chiefest, and brought them to the Captaine: One of which had my money,

which I presently received backe againe, but mine associates money,

was with them that escaped: the Captaine and Janisaries, meane while

carried the two Moores along with them, thinking to execute them

at Jerusalem. But their friends and neighbours following fast on

Horse-backe, and on foote, relieved them from the Caravan, restoring

backe againe the two Armenians money. Whereat all the Moores were

exceeding glad, and wee nowayes discontented: for if they had not

bin redeemed, certainly their friends and followers, who were thicke

flocking together, would have cut us all off, before wee could have

attain'd to Jerusalem.

At last wee beheld the prospect of Jerusalem, which was not onely a

contentment to my weary body, but also beeing ravished with a kinde

of unwonted rejoycing, the [A joyfull harmony.] teares gushed from my

eyes for too much joy. In this time the Armenians began to sing in

their owne fashion, Psalmes to praise the Lord: and I also sung the

103 Psalme all the way, till we arrived neere the wals of the Citty,

where wee ceased from our singing, for feare of the Turkes.

The Sunne being passed to his nightly Repose, before our arrivall,

wee found the Gates locked, and the Keyes carried up to the Bashaw

in the Castle; which bred a common sorrow in the Company, being

all both hungry, and weary: yet the Caravan intreated earnestly the

Turkes within, to give us over the Wals, some victuals for our money,

shewing heavily the necessity wee had thereof, but they would not,

neyther durst attempt such a thing. In this time the Guardian of the

Monastery of Cordeleirs, who remayneth there to receive Travailers

of Christendome, who having got newes of our late arrivall, came and

demanded of the Caravan, if any Frankes of Europe were in his Society,

and he sayd, onely one. Then the Guardian called mee, and asked of

what Nation I was of, and when I told him, hee seemed to be exceeding

glad: yet very sorrowfull for our misfortune.

[A deare nights Supper.] Hee having knowne my distresse, returned,

and sent two Friers to me with Bread, Wine, and Fishes, which they let

over the Wall (as they thought in a secret place) but they were espied,

and on the morrow the Guardiano payed to the Subbashaw or Sanzacke

a great fine, being a hundred Piasters, thirty pounds sterling:

otherwise both hee and I had beene beheaded: which I confesse, was

a deare bought supper to the Gray Frier; and no lesse almost to me,

being both in danger of my Life for starving, and then for receiving

of food, therefore suspected for a Traytor: For the Turkes alleadged,

he had taken in munition from me, and the other Christians, to betray

the Citty: this they doe oft, for a lesser faulte then that was,

onely to get Bribes and mony from the Grey Friers, which daily stand

in feare of their lives.

Anno 1612. upon Palme-Sunday in the morning, wee entred into Jerusalem,

and at the Gate wee were particularly searched, to the effect wee

carried in no Furniture of Armes, nor Powder with us, and the poore

Armenians (notwithstanding they are slaves to Turkes,) behoved to

render their weapons to the Keepers, such is the feare they have of

Christians. And my name was written up in the Clarkes Booke at the

Port, that my tribute for the Gate, and my seeing of the Sepulcher,

might bee payed at one time together, before my finall departure

thence.

The Gates of the City are of iron outwardly, and above each Gate are

brazen Ordonance planted, for their defence.

[A foolish ceremony.] Having taken my leave of the Caravan, and the

Company, who went to lodge with their owne Patriarke, I was met and

received with the Guardian, and twelve Friers upon the streetes, each

of them carrying in their hands a burning waxe Candle, and one for

mee also: who received mee joyfully, and singing all the way to their

Monastery Te Deum Laudamus, they mightily rejoyced, that a Christian

had come from such a far Countrey as Scotia, to visite Jerusalem.

Where being arrived, they forthwith brought me to a Roome, and there

the Guardian washed my right foote with water, and his Viccar my left:

and done, they kissed my feete, so did also all the twelve Friers that

stood by: But when they knew afterward that I was no Popish Catholicke,

it sore repented them of their Labour. I found here ten Frankes newly

come the neerest way from Venice hither, sixe of them were Germanes,

noble Gentlemen, and they also good Protestants, who were wonderfull

glad to heare me tell the Guardian flatly in his face, I was no Romane

Catholicke, nor never thought to be: The other foure Frankes were

Frenchmen, two of them Parisians old men, the other two of Provance,

all foure being Papists: with nine other Commercing Frankes, also that

dwelt in Syria and Cyprus, most of them beeing Venetians, who were

all glad of me, shewing themselves so kinde, so carefull, so loving,

and so honourable in all respects, that they were as kind Gentle-men,

as ever I met withall, especially the Germaines: Such is the love of

strangers, when they meete in Forraine and remote places. They had

also in high respect the adventures of my halfe yeares travaile, East,

and beyond Jerusalem: troubling me all the while wee were together,

to show them the rare Discourses of my long two yeares survey of

Turkey, but especially of my furthest sights in the East of Asia:

And were alwayes in admiration that I had no fellow Pilgrime, in my

long Peregrination.