Old potatoes are best mashed. Pare, and let them lie in cold water from
half to three-quarters of an hour. A longer time will not hurt them.
Boil in hot or cold water, according to the toughness of texture. A
coarse, waxy potato is best cooked in cold water. In either case, put
in a pinch of salt. Drain thoroughly when done, sprinkle with salt, and
mash them in the pot with a potato-beetle, or whip with a split spoon,
working in a tablespoonful of butter and enough milk to make the paste
about the consistency of soft dough. Leave no lumps in it, and when
smooth, dish. Form into a mound with a wooden spoon, and leave dots of
pepper here and there on the surface, as large as a half-dime.
_Or,_
Brown by setting in the oven until a crust is formed. Glaze this with
butter, and serve.