Boil in cold water with a pinch of salt. Have them of uniform size,
and cook steadily until a fork will pierce easily to the heart of the
largest. Then pour off the water, every drop; sprinkle with salt and
set back on the range, a little to one side, with the lid of the pot
off. Let them dry three or four minutes; peel very quickly and serve in
an uncovered dish.
_Without the Skins._
Pare very thin. The glory of a potato is its mealiness, and much of the
starch, or meal, lies next the skin—consequently is lost by slovenly
paring, which likewise defaces the shape. Lay in cold water for half an
hour, have ready a pot of boiling water slightly salted, drop in the
potatoes, and keep at a rapid boil until tender. Drain off the water,
sprinkle with fine salt, and dry as just described.
And here comes a conflict of authorities. Says my kind friend and
neighbor, Mrs. A., an excellent housewife—“I boil my potatoes in cold
water always—with a pinch of salt, of course, and when half-done, throw
away the boiling water and fill up with cold, then boil again. This
makes the potatoes mealy.” Mrs. B., whose reputation as a housekeeper
and cook is in every kitchen, interposes:—“I have tried both ways.
My experience is that potatoes melt into a sort of starchy gruel
when boiled in cold water. The philosophy of the operation is to
heat quickly and thoroughly, and, the instant they are done, to dry
out every drop of water. And—” with a touch of pardonable pride—“we
generally have delightful potatoes.” This is true, but remembering that
Mrs. A.’s are like snow hillocks, ready to crumble at a breath, I come
home and try the cold water plan. My cook, unlike most of her tribe,
is too sensible to suppose that she knows everything, and willingly
abets me. The result of our experiments stands somewhat thus—Garnet,
White Mountain, and Early Rose potatoes _are_ apt to dissolve in cold
water, giving off their starch too readily, perhaps. We boil them in
hot water. Peach Blows, Prince Alberts, and other late varieties are
best cooked as Mrs. A. recommends—_always_ pouring off the water the
instant they are done, and letting the potatoes dry for a few minutes.
My housewifely friends can decide for themselves which method is
preferable.