_Sept. 9._ _Friday._--Every thing continues still increasing in price,

and in an increased ratio the sufferings of the poor: if they leave

the city they are stripped and driven back; if they remain they are

starved; and even the dates are just come to an end, upon which for

near three weeks, both the people and the cattle have been feeding.

The Pasha has this day taken the jewels of his wives to sell, from

which and some other signs, I am led to think his course is nearly

run, and that ere long he will follow the fate of his predecessor. Ali

Pasha told the Suffian-Effendi, who went out to him to endeavour to

accommodate matters, that he had come for one head only, but that

after the way in which he had been treated, he would not be satisfied

with less than _ten_; and if, at that time, which was nearly a month

ago, he had determined to take ten, I fear a hundred would not now

satisfy him.

A poor Roman Catholic priest was with me to-day, telling me of his

distress, while one of his opulent flock was sitting by him. He said

the Jews would not allow their poor to beg from others; by which I

thought he meant to give a pretty intelligible hint that his flock

ought to be ashamed. But his rich hearer only said, "The Lord is

merciful, and he will provide." On this side the desert, the

professing Christians are not certainly priest-ridden as they are in

most Roman Catholic countries, or even on the other side of the

desert, in consequence of there being no powerful and wealthy

communities like the monasteries in Mount Lebanon, to bring down the

heavy arm of the Turks upon them; for without the Turks they can do

little, and these petty governments joyfully interfere in their

strifes to extort money from both parties, though in this respect,

Bagdad has been better off than most Pashalics for nearly sixty years

past, since the time of Suliman Pasha, whose slave the present Pasha

was, but liberated on his death. Since him there have been Ali Pasha,

Suliman Pasha the younger, Abdallah Pasha, and Seyd Pasha, all of whom

have been murdered after a longer or shorter period. Daoud Pasha has

now been fourteen years in possession of the power he obtained by the

murder of his predecessor, and seems now not far from sharing the

same fate.

_Sept. 10._ _Saturday._--The evening before last the thieves broke

into the house of one of the sons of the Pasha, and killed three of

the servants: if they serve the Pasha so what have others to expect?

Instead of being surprised that things are so bad, my surprise is that

they are not worse, seeing the city is entirely at the mercy of those

who are capable of every abomination and cruelty; and there is no

other restraint upon them than what God puts into their hearts by the

undefined fear of possible retribution. The most valuable articles

known to belong to the Pasha, from whom they had been stolen, were

sold openly in the streets, without the least notice being taken, and

thus also they shoot individuals when they please, in the open day and

in the public thoroughfares, and no one stops to see who it is or why

it is, but every one hastens off as fast as he can lest he should

share the same fate. And the passengers in the streets are not only

exposed to be shot at by those prompted by deliberate enmity, but this

armed rabble is continually drunk, and, without the least provocation,

fire at men or women. I seem to think, if it did please the Lord to

put an end to these scenes of sorrow and trial, my heart would be very

thankful; yet perhaps in this I deceive myself, and all my gratitude

would be as a morning cloud. However, this I know, the Lord will not

suffer me to be tried above what he will enable me to bear, and on

this assurance, in the darkest day, may the blessed Spirit enable my

heart to repose. This is my daily comfort.

_Sept. 12._ _Monday._--The poor are again permitted to leave the city,

and it is reported, that when Ali Pasha heard that those had been

robbed who came out before, he threw some of the supposed plunderers

into the river, and cut off the heads of others. However this may be,

5 or 600 now daily go out and suffer no molestation. This is a great

mercy, for within the city every article of food has disappeared

except buffaloes' and camels' flesh, and this at about twenty times

its usual price. Should this state of things continue, it seems to

me from present appearances, that a general plunder will be the

consequence. To-day they have pillaged the houses of some Jews.

Yesterday they broke open the house of Major Taylor's chaoush. They

are very slow to interfere with those under English protection; but

when their natural thievish propensities are stimulated by want and

opportunity, from what may they be expected to withhold themselves?

Things within the city are now come to that pass, that I heard from

the Meidan to-day (the place where the principal Turks reside) that

they have determined to wait five days more, and if Ajeel, the Sheikh

of the Montefeik Arabs, or some other efficient aid, does not arrive,

they will cut off the heads of Daoud Pasha and Saleh Beg, who is his

Kaimacam, or Lieutenant Governor, and send them to Ali Pasha, for the

city can bear no more.

When I consider all the misery in the city, and the privations not

only among the poor, but the rich, and consider how we have been

provided for, it does seem to me most marvellous, strangers as we

were, and without a friend. Before the plague, in our ignorance of the

probable time of its continuance, and with the certain knowledge that

in the midst of the greatest want, there was not a soul that could

help us, we took in enough of wheat, rice, soap, and candles, to last

till within a very few weeks. When dear Mr. Pfander left us, we made

him some sausages, called in this country _pastourma_: he, however,

took but a few, and the rest remained with us, and served us both

during the plague, and now in the famine to vary our food a little,

though somewhat dry and as hard as wood, and still of them one or two

remains. The dear boys also had some pigeons: these also served us for

many days. We then had two goats for my poor dear little baby, and to

give us milk; but provisions became so dear that we were obliged to

kill one; this we divided among the poor: the second at last we also

killed, and potted in its fat. This by little and little we are

consuming. We have also got four or five hens, which lay two or three

eggs a-day. Thus the Lord has provided for us till now; and if we have

not had abundance, we have never suffered from want. And now, when

wheat and rice is not to be bought, and if possessed in quantities

would expose the possessors to inevitable pillage, the Lord has so

graciously supplied us, that we avoid both want and the danger of

possessing provisions in the house, for before the kind Taylors left

this, they gave me permission to take from the Residency whatever I

might want, and this I now take by little and little as I need, and

the house of the Resident is so far respected in public opinion, that

openly disorganized as things are, I do not think they will commit any

violence upon it.

I am sure there are many who, in reading this, will bless God for his

goodness to us, so utterly unworthy as we are; but, oh! if they could

be witnesses of the misery that others suffer, and from which his

mercies have freed us, they would indeed praise him. For, even when

provisions were to be had, had we been obliged to purchase at the

price things then were and are now, we must inevitably have run in

debt; but as it is we have enough of money for more than a month to

come. Therefore, bereaved and incapable as I yet feel of all

enjoyment, I desire to bless the Lord for all his great goodness

and care over us, of the least of whose mercies I feel infinitely

unworthy. And though my faith does not enable me fully now to feel,

in unison with my _soul's judgment_, on my heavenly Father's dealings

toward me, when time has removed the bitter cup farther distant, it

may not possess all its present intensity of bitterness, to which also

so many circumstances have tended to add additional pungency--not a

friend near, not a communication from any of those far away. I have

ever felt one abiding source of comfort, in that I knew I enjoyed the

prayers of many whose prayers I truly value, and through these I

believe I shall yet stand complete in all the will of God, to remove

or to remain, to live or to die. The Lord will quickly come, and then

his power and great glory will be manifested to the joy of his chosen

and the confusion of his enemies.

_Sept. 14._ _Wednesday._--While I feel more convinced every day that a

missionary in these countries, who really would cast himself upon his

Lord, and share in its revolutions and national judgments, has more to

prepare his mind for them previously to his entering upon it than he

can well conceive: yet on the other hand, I feel more confirmed in the

opinion, that amidst this disjointed disorganized state of society,

there are more doors of irregular missionary service open than he can

possibly occupy. For though he can perhaps find few opportunities of

publicly preaching Christ; yet in conversation, and the preparation

and circulation of tracts, I think there are immense opportunities

afforded. Yet for conversation much time will be required in acquiring

a facility in the language by most, till the Lord is pleased to pour

down from on high, his gifts of the Spirit--and as to tracts, at

present we have none. The Turkish Armenian tracts, printed at Malta,

are not clearly understood here; neither do I think the Arabic or

Turkish spoken on the other side of the desert would be so either, if

I may judge from the translations into Turkish and Arabic. In fact, it

would appear desirable if the object of a missionary be to labour in

the east, that he should study on this side the desert if possible;

though the difficulties of a family are great here amidst the constant

succeeding commotion of this disturbed country. There is no retiring

place within at least some hundred miles, at all times by a dangerous

journey, but in such times as these almost impassable. And the

elements of disorder do not arise only from the state of the Ottoman

empire, but from the vicinity of Persia, daily encroaching on this

side, as I have mentioned before, both from religious and political

motives, and this spirit is encouraged by the constant weakening of

the pashalic. About fifty or sixty years ago, commenced the government

of Suliman Pasha the elder, who continued twenty-three years in his

situation and died in his bed. This Pasha raised Bagdad from a place

of little mercantile consideration to be one of the most important

places of traffic in the east, and he allured merchants from all

parts by the equity and firmness of his government. From that to the

present time, this pre-eminence has been enjoyed by Bagdad, and it has

been the central place of trade between the east and the west; and for

these purposes, if improved, a more desirable situation could not be

imagined under a firm and wise administration. This Suliman Pasha

strengthened the Georgian interest in this pashalic prodigiously by

the purchasing of an immense number of Georgian slaves whom he

manumitted at his death. One of these, Ali Pasha, who married his

daughter, succeeded him, and was murdered at prayers after about five

years reign. Suliman Pasha who succeeded him, also married a daughter

of the former Suliman, he governed about three years, and was then put

to death. He was succeeded by Abdallah Pasha, who was the treasurer of

Ali Pasha; he continued about three years, and was put to death. To

him succeeded Seyd Pasha, son of Suliman Pasha the elder, who, at the

end of about three years, was also put to death. To these last who had

thus succeeded and murdered one another, succeeded Daoud, the present

Pasha, who to avoid a like fate with his predecessors, cut off every

man about him who could possibly afford him any umbrage; but while on

the one hand he secured himself, on the other he so weakened the

Georgian interest, that when his affairs became involved in

difficulty, there was none to help but creatures who had ministered to

his avarice which he had gratified at the expence of every loyal

feeling (if such an expression can be used by a Turk.) But still,

though previous to the plague, the Georgians had been thus diminishing

in numbers, and more so in intellectual and moral character, still

they were a strong body; but the plague swept them nearly all away.

All this taking place at this peculiar juncture when there is no

recruiting their strength from Georgia, which is now in the hands of

the Russians, and when the heart of the Sultan is peculiarly set

against the whole mameluke rule seems to indicate the period of their

downfall to be near at hand. Should Ali Pasha now succeed in getting

possession of the city, the Georgian government of these renegade

slaves will be ended as that of their brethren in apostacy was in

Egypt. But, however things may terminate, there are no elements of

recovery, fall they must; for the curse of God is upon them from the

hands of one tyrant after another, till some powerful nominal

Christian government will accept the government of them, for which

they are daily ripening, which they are daily expecting, and which

will finally happen, unless they fully adopt a European policy and

plan, and this by another road, will lead to the same end, the

overthrow of Mohammedanism and the establishment of infidelity. I have

just thus cursorily made these remarks, that no missionary may

deceive himself by expecting any long period of peace and quietness.

If it comes, he may bless God; but if it be withheld, he must

calculate upon it. And I think those who are lightly armed for their

work--who can run, and fly, and hide, and at all events have only

their own lives to care about, will be happiest amidst all their

privations and trials between Bagdad and China. But for those who have

known the endearment of domestic life, or who are by nature peculiarly

susceptible of its happiness it may truly be said, this is a living

martyrdom. It is: but it is _for Christ_, who will soon come and wipe

away all tears from our eyes. I desire daily to feel it is a world in

which my gracious Lord was an outcast, and where it would be to my

loss if I made me a home. May the Lord make me willing to serve him on

these or any other terms he may manifest at his pleasure.

This morning some persons who were employed for the purpose, set at

liberty two of the principal Georgians who were imprisoned in the camp

of Ali Pasha.

The Armenian servant to whom I lent an Armenian Testament, with the

translation into the modern Constantinople dialect, came to me to say

how much better he understood it than he did before in the old

language, and his countenance seemed quite to brighten up at the sense

of his attainment. Among the Armenians I think there is an open door,

especially among the young, their ears are open and thirsting for

information on every subject.

The father of the Armenian schoolmaster was to-day speaking with me on

the difficulty of that passage, "Jacob have I loved, but Esau have I

hated." He said he felt just in that state as though God had said to

him, I will not receive you. I longed to preach to him fully so far as

I am able, Him who saith, Whosoever cometh to me I will in no wise

cast out; but I have many difficulties: he is very deaf, and Armenian

and Turkish, not Arabic, are the languages he understands. The

languages greatly try me, for though I feel by the Lord's mercy making

daily progress, yet still I feel four or five years must pass before I

am fully prepared even in this department of my labour, and happy

shall I be if in that time it be accomplished.

_Sept. 15._ _Thursday._--After a night of anxious suspense, the day

has dawned in comparative peace; the cry that Ali Pasha's troops were

entering the city, began soon after we had retired to rest, and

continued till near morning. Now we hear that Daoud Pasha had fled

from the house of Saleh Beg during the night and endeavoured to enter

the citadel, but the soldiers would not admit him. He is now in the

hands of the people of the Meidan. The Chaoush Kiahya of Ali Pasha has

entered the city, and every one is in an awful state of suspense as to

the future fate of the inhabitants, at least of the higher classes. I

have just set up the English flag that they may know the inhabitant of

the house is a stranger here, who has nothing to do with the strife

of the city. If, after this, the Lord allows them to enter our

habitation, may his holy and blessed will be done. I think the Lord

has allowed my mind to be in perfect peace as to the result.

The poor wives of the Pasha are kissing the hands of passers by,

begging that they will give them an asylum. Poor sufferers! all are

afraid to interfere so as to afford them that which they want. At

present, words and appearances are peaceable. May the Lord of his

mercy grant that they may continue so.

To-day we killed two fowls to have a little fresh meat. Thus the Lord

has kept us through all this time of trial, and we have enough

remaining for five or six days, blessed be his holy name. This day has

ended in perfect peace, not a disturbance or an individual molested.

The principal thieves, who, at the head of various gangs, were robbing

the city in every direction, are now doing all they can to escape, for

they are perfectly known. Thus the gracious hand of the Lord has

removed in one day the siege and famine, and fear and terror, from the

lawless within, and the undefined terrors from those who are without,

so that all seems joy and gladness to the poor inhabitants. In the

conclusion of this affair Ali Pasha has conducted himself amidst

numberless provocations with a moderation and prudence that does him

the highest honour; bless the Lord for all his mercies. This will be

the first night for months that we shall retire to rest without the

hateful sounds of civil strife saluting our ears, or disturbing our

rest.

_Sept. 16._ _Friday._--Another peaceful day. Ali Pasha has collected

all the principal Georgians together in his camp. When the late Pasha

went out to his camp, he rose from his seat and embraced him, and told

him not to fear; that the Sultan had ordered his life to be spared; to

Saleh Beg also assurances of safety were given, and in fact up to this

time not one individual has been put to death. It remains yet to be

seen whether this be a cloak or real moderation. However, from the

great body of the citizens all fear is removed, and both animals and

inhabitants alike rejoice in returning abundance. The wheat that was

sold on Wednesday, for 250 piasters, was sold on Thursday for 40,

and other things in proportion, besides which, vegetables have

re-appeared, which, for five months, were not to be procured, at any

price.

I sent out to-day the chaoush of Major Taylor to Ali Pasha, to enquire

if there were any letters or packets for the Residency or for me; but

I found there were none to my great disappointment. However, Ali Pasha

was very civil; enquired after the Resident, hoped there would be

perpetual and increasing affection between them, &c. &c. We have now

to wait to see how these fair beginnings will end. I have just seen

the Hakeem Bashee or chief Physician of Ali Pasha, who is an Italian,

and to my great joy found he had locked up in his box for me many

letters and newspapers, which he from time to time collected in the

camp; whenever any messenger was brought in, and his packets examined,

all that were for Europeans he took out, and put in his box; to-morrow

he promises to let me have those that were addressed to me. He tells

me that Ali Pasha has two interpreters, natives of Cyprus, who speak

Turkish, Italian, and Romaic. It appears that a great change is

contemplated in the government of this Pashalic.

One of the two gentlemen whom Major Taylor sent to examine the

Euphrates from Beles to Anah, has arrived at Aleppo on his way to

Beles. From Anah to Bussorah there is no insurmountable impediment in

the way of steam navigation. The part that now remains to be examined

is from Beer to Anah.

_Sept. 18._ _Lord's day._--To-day I have received a long missing

letter from the dear Taylors, in which Major Taylor most kindly and

generously offers, should any thing happen to me, to consider my dear

boys as his own, till he has an opportunity of sending them safely to

the hands of their friends in England. Thus the Lord provides, thus he

orders for us. This kind offer of Major T. was quite unsolicited, for,

though when I felt attacked by the plague, I had written a letter

making this request, yet, on my recovery, I destroyed it.

I also received a letter from Dr. Morrison, in China, in which he

expresses his conviction of the importance of missionaries learning to

earn their subsistence by some occupation, however humble, rather than

be dependant as they now are, on societies. I confess my mind so far

entirely agrees with him, that, if I had to prepare for a missionary

course, I would not go to a college or an institution, but learn

medicine, or go to a blacksmith's, watchmaker's, or carpenter's shop,

and there pursue my preparatory studies. I do not mean to say, that

this should be to the exclusion of preparatory studies in language,

and the deepest preparatory Scripture studies, but, in conjunction

with them, for I am satisfied it is a much greater blessing to

missionaries to lead those down who either by birth or other

circumstances may have been a little removed from the lower orders of

society than to raise those of humble birth to the rank of gentlemen

in the world, who neither by education, habits, nor intercourse are

enabled happily or profitably to fill such a station--but it is that

yoke of mere human ordination, the necessity of a _title from man to

preach_ and _administer_ as it is called the sacraments, of which not

so much as a hint is contained in the New Testament, it is that awful

distinction between laity and clergy which are the things that tie up

all hands, and put bodies of men into situations of trial, who, but

for this delusion, would be without any comparative difficulties.

Without these we should learn to judge of men's fitness for their

work, not by their being ordained or unordained by this or that

denomination of men, but according to the rule of the apostles, by

their doctrine and walking as they had them for "ensamples;" if they

came otherwise, though apostles or angels, let them, says the apostle,

be accursed. Oh, if this principle of the apostles were set up in

proving all things and holding fast that which is good, we should not

hear so good a man, and one so much to be loved, as Mr. Bickersteth,

misleading his readers by telling them to adhere to an unsound

_authorised_[39] teacher, rather than go to a sound and unauthorised

one; to one who is authorised by the head of the church, though not by

the head of the state. So said not Paul, but, "if I or an angel come

preaching any other doctrine, let him be accursed." In all the Apostle

Paul's trials with the false teachers, and in all the directions given

respecting them to the various churches, he never once alludes to

their appointment by the apostles or any other human being, or bodies

of human beings, as even a collateral ground of consideration and

preference, but always to the truth, the truth, the truth; if they

preach that, well; if they do not, it matters not who they are, nor

whence they came, from heaven or earth, they are to be rejected. God

grant the day may quickly come when the church of God may care as

little about the opinions of bishops and presbyteries or any other

association of men, _apart from their piety and truth_, as the Lord

and his Apostles cared about the opinions of the Sanhedrim. So far as

their estate or authority is temporal, let us obey them, but let us

keep our souls free.

[39] By whom authorised, of God or of man?

It is said that all these provinces, from Bussorah to Bagdad,

Sulemania, Mosul, Diarbekr, Merdin, Orfa, and Aleppo, are to be under

the government of Ali Pasha; at all events there seems to be such a

change contemplated, that at present I do not see it right to remove,

especially as the Lord has provided an asylum in the event of any

thing happening to me, in the bosom of Mr. Taylor's family, for my

dear boys.

Journal of a Residence at Bagdad During the Years 1830 and 1831 · 第 15 / 18 段