Rain at last.
Stockade erected.
Named Fort Bourke.
Visited by the natives.
Mortality among them from smallpox.
Results of the journey.
Friendly disposition of a native.
Boats launched.
Presents to natives.
They become importunate.
We leave the depot and embark in the boats.
Slow progress down the river.
Return to the depot.
Natives in canoes.
Excursion with a party on horseback.
A perfumed vegetable.
Interview with natives.
Present them with tomahawks.
Unsuccessful search for Mr. Hume's marked tree.
Ascend D'Urban's group.
Promising view to the southward.
A burnt scrub full or spinous dead boughs.
A night without water.
Return to the camp.
The party proceeds down the Darling.
Surprise a party of natives.
New acacia.
Mr. Hume's tree found.
Fall in the Darling.
Surprised by a party of natives.
Emu killed by the dogs.
Dunlop's range.
Meet the Puppy tribe.
Ascend Dunlop's range.
High land discovered to the westward.
Grass pulled and piled in ricks by the natives.
Hills beyond the Darling.
Convenient refraction.
Native huts.
Interview with the Red tribe.
The Puppy tribe.
How to avoid the sandy hills and soft plains.
Macculloch's range.
Visit a hill beyond the Darling.
View from its summit.
RAIN AT LAST.
May 27.
During the night the wind blew and rain fell for the first time since the
party left the colony. As we had been travelling for the last month on
ground which must have become impassable after two days of wet weather,
it may be imagined what satisfaction our high position gave me when I
heard the rain patter. The morning being fair I reconnoitred the course
of the river and the environs of our camp, and at once selected the spot
on which our tents then stood for a place of defence, and a station in
which the party should be left with the cattle. The boats were
immediately lowered from the carriage, and although they had been brought
500 miles across mountain ranges and through trackless forests, we found
them in as perfect a state as when they left the dockyard at Sydney.
STOCKADE ERECTED.
Our first care was to erect a strong stockade of rough logs, that we
might be secure under any circumstances; for we had not asked permission
to come there from the inhabitants, who had been reported to be numerous,
and who would of course soon make their appearance. All hands were set to
fell trees and cut branches, and in a very short time a stockade was in
progress, capable of a stout resistance against any number of natives.
NAMED FORT BOURKE.
As the position was in every respect a good one, either for its present
purpose or, hereafter perhaps, for a township, and consequently was one
important point gained by this expedition, I named it Fort Bourke after
His Excellency the present Governor, the better to mark the epoch in the
progress of interior discovery.
VISITED BY THE NATIVES.
May 28.
This morning some natives appeared on the opposite bank of the river,
shouting and calling, but keeping at a respectful distance from the
bullocks, some of which had already crossed. At length they ventured over
and, on my going to meet them, they sat down about 200 yards from the
tents. The party consisted of four men and a boy, followed by seven women
and children who sat at a little distance behind.
MORTALITY AMONG THEM FROM SMALLPOX.
The men carried no spears and looked diminutive and simple; most of them
had had the smallpox, but the marks were not larger than pin heads. I
found they had either seen or heard of Captain Sturt's party for,
pointing to the sun, they showed me that six revolutions of that source
of heat had elapsed since the visit of others like us. Other gestures,
such as a reference to covering, and expressions of countenance, made
their indications of the lapse of time plain enough. It seemed to me that
the disease which it was understood had raged among them (probably from
the bad water) had almost depopulated the Darling, and that these people
were but the remains of a tribe. The females were numerous in proportion
to the males, and they were not at all secluded by the men, as in places
where the numerical proportions were different. All these natives (with
the exception of the boy) had lost the right front tooth. They had a very
singular mode of expressing surprise, making a curious short whistle by
joining the tongue and lips. The gins were hideous notwithstanding they
were rouged with red ochre, by way, no doubt, of setting off their
charms. I gave to one man a piece of my sword blade, and to another a
tomahawk, which he carefully wrapped in the paper in which I had kept it,
and he seemed much pleased with his present. They pointed to the west as
the general course of the river.
RESULTS OF THE JOURNEY.
The results of our journey thus far were, first, the survey of the Bogan,
nearly from its sources to its junction with the Darling. This I
considered no trifling addition to Australian geography; for the
knowledge of the actual course of a long river, however diminutive the
channel, may often determine to a great extent the character of the
country through which it passes. In the present instance it may be
remarked that, had Captain Sturt considered the course of this river when
he named the lower part of it New Year's Creek, the idea that the plains
which he saw to the southward of New Year's range formed the "channel of
a broad and rapid river" never could have occurred to him; for the basin
of the Bogan being bounded on the west by a succession of low hills, no
other river could have been reasonably looked for in such a direction.
Again, the connection of that chain of low hills with the higher lands of
the colony, being thus indicated by the course of the Bogan, it is not
probable that this traveller, had he been aware of the fact, would have
described New Year's range, which is about the last of these hills, as
"the FIRST elevation in the interior of Eastern Australia, to the
westward of Mount Harris." On the contrary, the divergent lines of the
Bogan and the Lachlan might rather have been supposed to include a hilly
country which, increasing in height in proportion as its breadth thus
became greater, would naturally form that high ground so likely to
separate the Upper Darling from the valley of the Murray.
Secondly. The continuous course of the Bogan into the Darling being thus
at length determined, Duck creek, a deeper chain of ponds in the level
country nearer to the Macquarie, could only be considered the final
channel for the waters of that river in their course towards the Darling;
and it only remained to be ascertained on our return at what point these
waters of the Macquarie separated during its floods from the main stream.
Thirdly. The non-existence of any swamp under Oxley's Tableland furnished
another proof of the extreme vicissitudes of climate to which that part
of Australia is subject. This spot had been specially recommended to
government by Captain Sturt as the best place for my depot, on account of
the water to be found there, whereas we had found that vicinity so dry
that had I relied too implicitly on the suggestion I must, as already
observed, in all probability, have lost the cattle.
Fourthly. The water of the Darling, which when discovered had been salt,
was now fresh, thus proving that there was on this last occasion a
greater abundance of water in the river; while the swamp dried up, proved
that less remained upon the surface than when this country had been
previously visited.
The geological character of the country was obvious enough, the hills
consisting of quartz rock and that fine-grained red sandstone which
characterises the most barren regions of New South Wales. Below this rock
granite appeared in the bed of the Bogan precisely at the place where
this river, after a long course nearly parallel to the Macquarie, at
length takes a remarkable turn westward towards the Darling.
FRIENDLY DISPOSITION OF A NATIVE.
May 29.
We this day completed the stockade and had felled most of the timber near
it; and I was glad to find that the blacks had already resumed their
usual occupations. One of those, whom I saw yesterday, while passing down
the river today on a piece of bark, perceived Mr. Larmer fishing, upon
which he approached the riverbank, and after throwing to him a fish which
he had caught, continued in his frail bark to float down the stream. This
was a most prepossessing act of kindness, and I begged Mr. Larmer to
endeavour to recognise the man again and show our sense of it by suitable
presents.
EMBARK IN THE BOATS.
May 30.
This morning we launched the boats and one of them, which had never
floated before, was called by the men The Discovery. I therefore named
the other The Resolution, telling them that they had now the names of
Captain Cook's two ships for our river-navigating vessels. Most of the
loads were also arranged today for embarkation, including three months'
rations: three months supplies were also left for the garrison, besides a
store of one month for the whole party, to serve for the journey home.
This day our Vulcan presented me with a good blade, forged on the Darling
and tempered in its waters. We were fortunate in our blacksmith, for he
also made some good pikes or spearheads, which he mounted on long poles,
to be carried in the boats.
PRESENTS TO NATIVES.
May 31.
The same natives with an old man and a very wild-looking young one,
covered with red ochre, total gules, came to their tree, and I went to
them. I gave the old man a spike-nail sharpened, but he asked for a
tomahawk, and I then gave him one.
THEY BECOME IMPORTUNATE.
This last gift only made our visitors more importunate; but I at length
left them to attend to more important matters. Soon after, the man to
whom I first gave a tomahawk beckoned me to come to him again, and I went
up with my rifle, demanding what more he wanted; whereupon he only
laughed, and soon after pulled my handkerchief from my pocket. I restored
it to its place in a manner that showed I disliked the freedom taken with
it. I then sent a ball into a tree a good way off, which seemed to
surprise them; and having made them understand that such a ball would
easily pierce through six blackfellows, I snapped my fingers at one of
their spears, and hastened to the camp. I considered these hints the more
necessary as the natives seemed to think us very simple fools who were
ready to part with everything. Thus enlightened as to the effect of our
firearms these thankless beggars disappeared; although several gins and
some men still sat on the opposite bank, observing our boats.
WE LEAVE THE DEPOT AND EMBARK IN THE BOATS.
June 1.
Everything being ready I embarked with Mr. Larmer and 14 men, leaving the
depot in charge of Joseph Jones (assistant overseer) and six other men,
armed with four muskets and as many pistols. We proceeded well enough
some way down the river, but at length a shallow reach first occasioned
much delay, and afterwards rocks so dammed up the channel that it was
necessary to unload and draw the boats over them.
SLOW PROGRESS DOWN THE RIVER.
Our progress was thus extremely slow, notwithstanding the activity and
exertions of the men, who were almost constantly in the water, although a
bitter cold wind blew all day. By sunset we had got over a bad place
where there was a considerable fall, when, on looking round the point, we
found that the bed of the river was full of rocks, to the extent of
nearly a mile. I therefore encamped only a few miles from the depot, the
latitude being 30 degrees 9 minutes 59 seconds South.
RETURN TO THE DEPOT.
These unexpected impediments to our progress down the river determined me
to return to the depot with the boats, and afterwards to explore its
course on horseback until I could discover more of its character and
ultimate course.
No time had yet been lost, for the horses and cattle had required some
rest; and the depot was still desirable as a place of defence while I
proceeded down with the horses. We had however acquired such a knowledge
of the bed, banks, and turnings of the river at this part as could not
have been otherwise obtained. The water being beautifully transparent the
bottom was visible at great depths, showing large fishes in shoals,
floating like birds in mid-air. What I have termed rocks are only patches
of ferruginous clay which fill the lowest part of the basin of this
river. The bed is composed either of that clay or of a ferruginous
sandstone exactly similar to that on the coast near Sydney, and which
resembles what was formerly called the iron-sand of England, where it
occurs, as before stated, both as a fresh and saltwater formation. At the
narrows the quantity of running water was very inconsiderable, but
perhaps as much as might have turned a mill. It made some noise among the
stones however although at the very low level of this river compared to
its distance from the known coasts it could not fall much. I was
nevertheless unwilling to risk the boats among the rocks or clay banks,
and accordingly decided on returning to the camp.
June 2.
We proceeded up the river with the boats, re infecta, and reached the
depot about two o'clock, where we found all things going on as I had
directed.
NATIVES IN CANOES.
As we pulled up the river two natives appeared at a distance in one of
the long reaches, fishing in two small canoes. On observing our boats
they dashed the water up, paddling with their spears, and thus scudding
with great rapidity to the right bank, where they left their canoes and
instantly disappeared. These vessels were of the simplest construction;
so slight indeed that it seemed to us singular how a man could float in
one, for it was merely a sheet of bark, with a little clay at each end;
yet there was a fire besides in each, the weather being very cold. A
native, when he wishes to proceed, stands erect and propels the canoe
with the short spear he uses in fishing; striking the water with each end
alternately, on each side of the canoe, and he thus glides very rapidly
along.
EXCURSION WITH A PARTY ON HORSEBACK.
June 3.
I set off with four men on horseback to examine the river downwards,
proceeding first two miles on a bearing of 151 degrees, and then
south-west. At about 20 miles we made an angle of the river where the
left bank was 50 feet high. None of the usual indications of the
neighbourhood of the Darling appeared here. No flats of Polygonum
junceum, nor falls in the ground. The river was evidently encroaching on
this high bank which consisted of red sandy earth to the depth of ten
feet. Below this stratum was clay mixed with calcareous concretions. The
opposite bank was lower and very grassy; and the water in the river was
brackish; but a small spring oozing from the rocks above-mentioned, at
about two feet above the water of the river, was perfectly sweet. From
this bend the highest point of D'Urban's group bore 151 degrees (from
north). About one half of the way which we had come today lay across
plains, the last portion we crossed containing several hollows, thickly
overgrown with the Polygonum junceum. Between these low parts the ground
was rather more elevated than usual, especially where D'Urban's group
bore 163 degrees (from north). The undulations were probably connected
with that range, and their position afforded some clue to the western
bends of the river. We passed in a scrub a young gin and a boy. They did
not begin to run until we stood still and had called to them for some
time. As there was still light to spare I proceeded onward, travelling
west-south-west, and with difficulty regained sight of the river at dusk.
Here the water was still more brackish but quite good enough for use; and
we passed the night in a hollow by the riverside.
June 4.
At an angle of the river, below the gully in which we had slept, a rocky
dyke crossed the stream in a north-north-west direction. It consisted of
a very hard ferruginous sandstone resembling that on the eastern coast.
This must have been another of the many impediments to our boat
navigation had we proceeded by water, and from the general appearance of
the river I was satisfied that a passage with boats could not have been
attempted in its present state with any prospect of getting soon down. We
travelled on, without seeing the river, from seven until twelve,
following a south-west course, then due west, and in this direction we
crossed the broad dry bed of a watercourse coming from the south-east,
having previously observed high ground on the left.
A PERFUMED VEGETABLE.
The bed of this watercourse was covered with a plant resembling clover or
trefoil, but it had a yellow flower, and a perfume like that of
woodrooffe.* A fragrant breeze played over this richest of clover fields
and reminded me of new-mown hay. The verdure and the perfume were new to
my delighted senses, and my passion for discovering something rich and
strange was fully gratified, while my horse, defying the rein, seemed no
less pleased in the midst of so delicious a feast as this verdure must
have appeared to him. The ground seemed to rise before me, and I was
proceeding with the intention of ascending the nearest elevation to look
for the Darling when I suddenly came upon its banks, which were higher,
and its bed was broader and deeper than ever!
(*Footnote. See below for Dr. Lindley's description of this plant.)
INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES.
We had also arrived on it at a point occupied by a numerous tribe of
blacks, judging by the number of fires which we saw through the trees.
Their roads appeared in all directions, and their gins were fishing in
the river at a distance. In short, the buzz of population gave to the
banks at this place the cheerful character of a village in a populous
country. Conscious of the alarm our first appearance was likely to
produce, although I could not suppose that all the inhabitants would run
off, I hastened to the water edge with our horses (for they had not drunk
that morning) in order that we might, after refreshing them, recover a
position favourable for a parley with whoever might approach us. I was
much pleased, though surprised, to find the water again quite fresh, and
its current still sustained.* Our appearance caused less alarm than I had
even expected. A sturdy man hailed me from a distance and came boldly up,
followed by another very athletic, though old, individual, and six
younger men with an old woman. I alighted and met them after sending, at
their request, the horses out of sight. With difficulty I persuaded them
at length to go near the horses; but I endeavoured in vain to gain any
information as to the further course of the river. The Callewatta was
still their name for it, as it was higher up. I observed here that the
old woman was a loquacious and most influential personage, scarcely
allowing the older of the men to say a word.
(*Footnote. See below.)
PRESENT THEM WITH TOMAHAWKS.
The curiosity of these people was too intense to admit of much attention
on their part, at that time, either to our words or gestures so, after
giving them a tomahawk and two large nails, and refusing to let them have
my pocket-handkerchief (no unusual request, for such natives always found
it out) I mounted, and we galloped off to the eastward, their very
singular mode of expressing surprise being audible until we were at some
distance. On reaching that point in my track where I had in the morning
changed the direction of my ride, I took off to the north-north-east, in
search of the river, and at six miles we reached a branch of it where it
formed an island. We did not arrive here until long after sunset and
were, consequently, in an unpleasant state of ignorance as to the
locality, but we made our fire in a hollow, as on the preceding night,
and could only rely on the surrounding silence for security. The result
of the excursion thus far was that I ascertained that angle of the river
which I first made on this tour to be the part nearest of all to
D'Urban's group; that its general course thence to the lowest position at
which I had seen it (the direct distance being 21 miles) is nearly two
points more to the westward than the course from the depot; and that,
even at such a distance from Oxley's Tableland and D'Urban's group, the
line of the river is evidently influenced by these heights, thus
rendering it probable that it might be found to turn still more towards
the west or north-west on its approaching any other hills situated on the
left bank.
(*Footnote. See below.)
June 5.
I awoke thankful that we had been again guided to a solitary and secure
place of rest. That no tribe was near admitted of little doubt after we
had seen the morning dawn and found ourselves awake for, had our fire
been discovered by any natives, it was very unlikely that any of us had
been permitted to wake again.
UNSUCCESSFUL SEARCH FOR MR. HUME'S MARKED TREE.
Being within a mile and a half of where Captain Sturt and Mr. Hume had
turned (as indicated by the bearing given by the former of D'Urban's
group, namely 58 degrees East of South) I looked along the riverbank for
the tree described by the former as having Mr. Hume's initials cut upon
it, but without success, and at ten o'clock I left the river and rode on
the same bearing to D'Urban's group. The thick scrub, having been
previously burnt, presented spikes like bayonets, which reduced our
hurried ride to a walking pace, our horses winding a course through it as
the skeleton trees permitted. In an unburnt open place I found one
solitary specimen of a tree with light bluish-green leaves, and a taste
and smell resembling mustard. It was no less remarkable for its rare
occurrence and solitary character than for the flavour of its wood and
remarkable foliage. I could obtain no seeds of it.*
(*Footnote. See description of this plant as discovered in a better state
on the banks of the Murray, Volume 2 Chapter 3.6. June 5. Gyrostemon.)
ASCEND D'URBAN'S GROUP.
I ascended the highest and most southern summit, anxiously hoping to
obtain a view of Dunlop's range. The view was most satisfactory. I beheld
a range, the first I had seen since I lost sight of Harvey's. It was
extensive and descended towards the river from the south-east, being a
different kind of feature from the various detached hills which cannot
form basins for rivers on these dead levels, nor even supply springs.
PROMISING VIEW TO THE SOUTHWARD.
Dunlop's range certainly was not high, but its undulating crest,
vanishing far in the south-east, showed its connection with the high
ground south of the Bogan; and a long line of smoke skirting its northern
base afforded fair promise of some river or chain of ponds near which a
native population could live. The course of the Darling was clearly
marked out by its extensive plains and the darker line of large trees
vanishing far in the west. Beyond, or westward of the river, no high
ground appeared, no Berkley's range as shown on the map, unless it might
be a slight elevation, so very low and near as to be visible above the
horizon, only from the foot of the hill on which I then stood. A few
detached hills were scattered over the country between me and the Bogan;
and of these Oxley's Tableland was the most remarkable, being a finer
mass by far than Mount Helvelyn. This ridge, the features of which are
rather tame, consists of two hills (a and b) the principal or southern
summit (a) being 910 feet, the other 660 feet, above the plain at their
base. These heights are 2 1/2 miles from each other, which distance
comprises the whole extent of D'Urban's group, in the line of its summits
between north-east and south-west.
The steep and rocky face of the ridge thus formed is towards the river,
or westward. Eastward lower features branch off, and are connected by
slight undulations with some of the otherwise isolated hills in that
quarter. Towards the base is a very fine-grained sandstone, and at the
summit I found a quartzose rock, possessing a tendency to break into
irregular polygons, some of the faces being curved. There are a few
stunted pines on the higher crest, but the other parts are nearly bare.
The highest point of Helvelyn (which I take to be the southern summit) is
distant from the nearest bend of the Darling 17 2/6 miles, on a line
bearing 151 degrees from North, and from the highest part of Oxley's
Tableland, which bears 43 degrees from North (variation 6 degrees 30
minutes East) it is distant 39 miles. At this summit the western
extremity of Dunlop's range forms with Oxley's Tableland an angle
coinciding with the general course of the Darling, which flows through
the adjacent plains at an average distance of about 16 miles from each of
these points.
A BURNT SCRUB FULL OR SPINOUS DEAD BOUGHS.
It was nearly sunset when I mounted my horse at the foot of Helvelyn,
intending to return to the Darling for, there being no other water in the
whole country at that time, my intention was to travel back to this river
by moonlight. I had found however during my ride to this hill, that the
intervening country was covered by a half-burnt scrub, presenting sharp
points between which we could scarcely hope to pass in safety by
moonlight with our horses, since even in daylight we could not proceed
except at a very slow pace. The half-burnt branches were armed with
points so sharp as to penetrate, in one instance, the upper part of my
horse's hoof, and in another, a horse's fetlock, from which a portion was
drawn measuring more than an inch.
A NIGHT WITHOUT WATER.
I therefore determined to pass the night at a short distance from the
foot of this hill, on a spot where I found some good grass.
RETURN TO THE CAMP.
June 6.
We proceeded to the Darling where we could, at length, have breakfast and
water the horses. Returning from the river along our track to the camp I
arrived there at seven in the evening with two of the men, the others
having fallen behind on account of their horses. The latter however came
in not long after, although it had been found necessary to leave one poor
horse tied in the bush near the camp until sent for early next morning.
On our way back we discovered that a native having a very large foot had
followed our track for fifteen miles from where we had first alarmed the
gin; it was therefore probable that he had not been far from where we
slept in the hollow on the first evening.
THE PARTY LEAVES FORT BOURKE.
June 8.
We broke up our encampment on the position which I had selected for a
depot (and which had served as such during our short absence down the
river) and after proceeding two miles on the bearing of 151 degrees, in
order to clear the river, we followed my previous track to the
south-west.
THE PARTY PROCEEDS DOWN THE DARLING.
The ground crossed by the party this day consisted chiefly of plains with
little scrub; and when we had travelled 12 1/2 miles, it appearing open
towards a bend in the river, we made for the tall trees (our
never-failing guides to water) on a bearing of 248 degrees. We reached
the Darling at 14 1/4 miles and encamped near it.
SURPRISE A PARTY OF NATIVES.
As we approached this spot, and while I was reconnoitring the bank for
the purpose of marking out the camp, I came suddenly upon a party of
natives, one of whom giving a short cooey first made me aware of the
circumstance. Burnett went towards them with a branch; but they hastily
gathered up their things and fled. The party appeared to consist of two
men and five women, and it doubtless belonged to the same tribe as the
gins we had previously seen; and the men were probably those who had
traced us so far. The river water was brackish; and in the bank was a bed
of calcareous concretions which some of the men supposed to be bones.
June 9.
Striking again into the original south-west track by leaving the river on
a bearing of 202 degrees we arrived on the eastern bend of it, where we
had before breakfasted, and where we now heard natives, as if hastily
making their escape. Continuing the journey to the next bend lower down
we encamped at the head of the same gully in which I slept on the night
between the 4th and 5th of June.
NEW ACACIA.
On passing through the bush this day we fell in with a tree that was new
to me. It appeared to be very near Acacia eglandulosa (De C.) but the
branches had so graceful a character that I was tempted to draw it while
I awaited the arrival of the carts, whose progress through the spinous
scrub already mentioned was very slow. The wood of this acacia was hard
and of a dark brown colour. We gathered some stones of the fruit: and we
brought away its stem also.
June 10.
The knowledge which I had acquired in my ride down the Darling now
enabled me to follow the most desirable route in order to avoid the
scrub, and travel along the plains near its banks. At five miles and
twelve chains we approached a bend of the river, and found there the
remains of a large hut, in the construction of which an axe had been
used. It therefore occurred to me that we might be near the tree where
Captain Sturt had turned from the Darling, and I found that the northern
head of D'Urban's group bore nearly 58 degrees East of South, the bearing
given by him of this group.
MR. HUME'S TREE FOUND.
I therefore looked along the riverbank for the tree in question, but
without success. In crossing a dry watercourse some miles further on it
occurred to me that this might be the one at the mouth of which Mr. Hume
had cut his name. I therefore sent overseer Burnett and The Doctor to
trace the channel down, and to look for a tree so marked. They found at
the mouth of the creek a very large and remarkable gumtree, and on the
side next the river the letters H.H. appeared, although the cross-line of
one H had grown out. The letters seemed to have been cut with a tomahawk,
and were about five inches in length. The men cut my initials also on
that tree, which to my regret I was prevented from seeing by a desire to
attain a certain point with the party which I was consequently obliged to
lead. We travelled for this purpose until after sunset, and then encamped
at a distance of about a mile and a half to the southward of a bend of
the Darling.
CATARACT IN THE DARLING.
Here the river formed a cataract of about two feet, falling over some
argillaceous ironstone: and as the waters glittered in the moonlight I
listened with awe to the unwonted murmur of this mysterious stream which
poured through the heart of a desert, by its single channel, that element
so essential to the existence of all animals. One of the men (Robert
Whiting) had examined the river a mile and a half above the fall, and
found the water there so very salt that he could not drink it, and he
therefore proceeded downwards to this fall, where it proved to be good.
SURPRISED BY A PARTY OF NATIVES.
June 11.
In the morning, while examining the river below the fall, some natives
hailed me from the opposite side, and soon afterwards, having slyly swum
the river, they stole suddenly upon us while I sat drawing the cataract.
One of our men heard them creeping along the bank above us, whereupon the
whole party stood up and laughed. Among them I recognised the old man
whom I had seen a few days previously on my excursion lower down the
river. There was another old man who was more intelligent and less
covetous than the rest. I gave him a clasp-knife with which he appeared
much pleased, making the most expressive gestures of friendship and
kindness by clasping me around the neck, and patting my back. The number
of this tribe amounted to about twenty. I remarked among them an old
woman having under her especial care a very fine-looking young one. They
had swum across the river with as little inconvenience as if they had
only stepped over it. The teeth and shape of the mouth of the young
female were really beautiful, and indeed her person and modest air
presented a good specimen of Australian womanhood. On leaving us they
loudly pronounced a particular word which I as often repeated in reply;
and they pointed to the earth and the water, giving us to understand in
every way they could that we were welcome to the water, which they
probably considered their own.
EMU KILLED BY THE DOGS.
As we crossed a plain the dogs set off after three emus, the pursued and
the pursuers disappearing in the woods. Some time after, while passing
through a scrub, we came upon the dogs standing quietly beside a dead
emu. If not the first killed by them, it was at least the first that fell
into our hands; and if this were the only one they had killed it was
singular enough that the capture should have happened exactly in the line
of our route. This acquisition we considered a favourable omen on our
approaching the hills, for we had begun to despair of obtaining any of
these swift though gigantic birds, inhabitants of the plains.
DUNLOP'S RANGE.
At length we reached rising ground, rather a novelty to us; and I
continued my course across a ridge which appeared to be connected on the
south with Dunlop's range. It consisted of a very hard conglomerate
composed of irregular concretions of milk-white quartz, in a ferruginous
basis, with apparently compact felspar weathering white. It seemed the
same kind of rock which I found nearest to the Karaula, in latitude 29
degrees.* On this hill we encamped for the night, the bend of the river
nearest to us bearing north-north-east, and being distant about two
miles. It was almost sunset before we took up our ground, and we had
still to seek the nearest way to the river, through woods. Such occasions
tried the nettle of my men; but he who, at the close of such days, was
the first to set out for the river, with his bucket in hand, and musket
on shoulder, was the man for me. Such men were Whiting, Muirhead, and The
Doctor; and although I insisted on several going together on such an
errand, I had some trouble to prevent these from setting out alone. The
river made a sharp turn northward, and at the bend the water was deeper
and broader than we had seen it elsewhere. The taste was perfectly sweet.
(*Footnote. See below.)
June 12.
We travelled for several miles over stony ground which gradually rose to
a hill on our right, and then declined rapidly to the river. Descending
at length to the level ground, we passed through much scrub which
terminated on a plain, bounded on the side opposite to us by the large
gumtrees or eucalypti, the never-failing indicators of the river. The
stream there ran in a rather contracted channel, and over a sandy bed.
Its course was to the southward, in which direction extensive plains
appeared to stretch along its bank.
MEET THE PUPPY TRIBE.
As I approached the river a tribe of natives who were seated very near me
at their fires, under a large tree, called out. We communicated in the
usual manner, but I could learn nothing from them about the general
course of the Darling lower down. I gave them a clasp-knife and two young
pups of a good breed for killing kangaroos. They expressed astonishment
at everything (no common trait in the aborigines) and I was obliged to
sit cross-legged before a very old chief nearly blind while he examined
my dress, shirt, pockets, etc. This tribe, like the others, was not at
all numerous.
We proceeded until we arrived under the north-western extremity of
Dunlop's range, when we encamped on the margin of a small lagoon,
evidently the remains of some flood which had been produced by the
overflowing of the river, only half a mile distant to the north-west. The
lagoon was more convenient to us for watering our cattle than the river,
the left bank of which, adjacent to our camp, was broken to a much
greater distance back than I had observed it to be anywhere higher up.
ASCEND DUNLOP'S RANGE.
June 13.
The wheels of the two carts requiring some repairs, and it being also
necessary to shoe several horses, I thought it advisable to rest the
party this day: I wished also to ascend Dunlop's range. On climbing to
the top I found that it consisted of a chain of hills composed of a very
hard sandstone, or quartz rock, similar to that of D'Urban's group. The
summit was bare, not only of trees but even of grass, or any vegetation.
This nakedness was however the more favourable for my chief object, which
was to obtain a view of the distant country. The weather was not very
auspicious, the sky being cloudy, and slight showers fell occasionally.
The height of these hills is not considerable, the summit of that which I
ascended was about 528 feet above the plains. It was seven miles to the
south-east of the camp and at the north-west extremity of the range, or
the most western part visible from D'Urban's group. I never ascended a
hill with feelings of keener interest in the views it commanded. Eastward
I beheld that hilly country which I had always considered to lie in the
best line of exploration; and from this point it looked well.
HIGH LAND DISCOVERED TO THE WESTWARD.
I could easily trace the further course of the Darling for about 20 miles
westward; but the most remarkable feature discoverable from the hill was
the undulating character of the country to the north-west beyond the
river. That region no longer presented a dead flat like the ocean, but
had upon it various eminences some resembling low portions of tableland,
others being only undulations raised a little above the common level; but
the whole country was much variegated with wood and plain.
June 14.
We moved forward along the plains, keeping the river in sight on the
right; and after travelling 13 1/2 miles we encamped close to it. The
banks were so steep at this part that the cattle could not be got down
without considerable difficulty. The water was quite sweet.
June 15.
We continued our journey in a south-west direction, and thus crossed
various slight eminences connected with a range which lay nearly parallel
to our route, on the left, and was named by me Rankin's Range.
THE OCCA TRIBE.
Some natives followed us during a part of this day, shouting, and at
length came boldly up to the head of the column. They were very greedy,
coveting everything they saw; and holding out their hands, uttering
constantly, in an authoritative tone, the word occa! which undoubtedly
means give! I had not been in their presence one minute before their
chief, a very stout fellow, drew forth my pocket-handkerchief, while a
boy took my Kater's compass from the other pocket and was on the point of
running off with it. I gave a clasp-knife to the chief, when another of
the party most importunately demanded a tomahawk. Observing that he
carried a curious stone hatchet I offered to exchange the tomahawk for
it, to which he reluctantly agreed. I left them at last disgusted with
their greediness; and I determined henceforward to admit no more such
specimens of wild men to any familiarity with my clothes, pockets, or
accoutrements. They paid no attention to my questions about the river.
When the party moved on they followed, and when I halted or rode back
they ran off; thus alternately retiring and returning, and calling to the
men. At last I galloped my horse at them, whereupon they disappeared
altogether in the bush. At 10 1/2 miles we came upon the river, and
encamped where it was very deep and broad, the banks and also the flood
marks being much lower than further up the Darling.
June 16.
We were compelled to turn east for half a mile to clear a bend in the
river to our left, which, impinging upon some rather high ground, left us
no very good passage. The course of the river lower down was such that
after travelling many miles to the south-west, and two to the west and
north-west, I was obliged to encamp without being able to find it. By
following a hollow however which descended in a north-east direction from
our camp, the river was discovered by our watering party in the evening
at the distance of about three miles. The country which we had crossed
this day was of a somewhat different character from any yet passed,
consisting of low, bare eminences, bounding extensive open plains on
which were hollows on a clay bottom surrounded by Polygonum junceum, and
evidently the receptacles of water at other times. The hills, if the bare
eminences might be so-called, were composed of a red sandy soil producing
only salsolae and composite plants, but no grass. This red sand was so
loose that the wheels of the carts sank in it at some places to the
axles. There were bold undulations where we encamped; all declining
towards the hollow connected with the river. There was also a little hill
overlooking plains to the north and west. We passed a solitary tree of a
remarkable character, related to Banisteria, the wood being white and
close-grained, much resembling beech. As it pleased the carpenters I
gathered some of the seeds. This evening by observation of the star alpha
Crucis I ascertained the variation to be 7 degrees 52 minutes 15 seconds
East.
June 17.
We descried, from a tree not far from the camp, hills to the westward,
and the interest with which we now daily watched the horizon may easily
be imagined, for on the occurrence and direction of ridges of high land
depended the course of the Darling and its union with other rivers, or
discharge into the sea on the nearest line of coast. A range extending
from west to north-west was in sight, also a lower ridge, but apparently
on the other side of the river. The cattle having separated on its banks
during the night they were not brought up so early as usual; and in the
interim I endeavoured to repair the barometer, which was out of order.
This accident had occurred in consequence of the man having carried it,
contrary to my orders, slung round his body instead of holding it in his
hand. Much of the quicksilver had shaken out of the bag and lodged in the
lower part of the cylinder; but by filing the brass and letting off this
mercury the instrument was rendered once more serviceable. We travelled
this day due west, and at the end of 7 1/2 miles we encamped on a bend of
the river where the water was deep, and the banks rather low, but very
steep. The sky became overcast, almost for the first time since we had
advanced into these interior regions, and at sunset it began to rain. The
position of the hills and the direction of the river were here
particularly interesting, as likely soon to decide the question
respecting the ultimate course of this solitary stream on which our lives
depended in this dry and naked wilderness!
June 18.
The morning was fine as usual, the rain which fell during the night had
only laid the dust. We proceeded south-west until the bends of the river
obliged me to move still more to the southward. The hills on the opposite
bank at length receded, and we saw before us only a wide desert plain
where nothing seemed to move, and the only indication of life throughout
this melancholy waste was a distant column of dark smoke ascending in
remarkable density to the sky. In the afternoon, the wind blowing keenly
from the west-south-west, we encamped amongst some polygonum bushes near
the river after travelling 10 1/4 miles.
June 19.
A thick haze came on, with an extremely cold wind from the south-west;
and as it was necessary to look well before me in this part of our
journey, I gave the men and cattle the benefit of a day's rest. The river
was so shallow that it seemed almost possible to step across it; and no
deep reaches appeared in its bed. This probably was the reason why no
natives were in the vicinity, as in such deep parts only can they find
fish. The quantity of water continued the same as when we first came on
the river 120 miles higher up.
GRASS PULLED AND PILED IN RICKS BY THE NATIVES.
In the neighbourhood of our camp the grass had been pulled to a very
great extent, and piled in hay-ricks so that the aspect of the desert was
softened into the agreeable semblance of a hay-field. The grass had
evidently been thus laid up by the natives, but for what purpose we could
not imagine. At first I thought the heaps were only the remains of
encampments, as the aborigines sometimes sleep on a little dry grass; but
when we found the ricks, or haycocks, extending for miles we were quite
at a loss to understand why they had been made. All the grass was of one
kind, a new species of Panicum related to P. effusum R. Br.* and not a
spike of it was left in the soil over the whole of the ground. A
cucurbitaceous plant had also been pulled up and accumulated in smaller
heaps; and from some of the roots the little yam had been taken, but on
others it remained. The surface, naturally soft, thus appeared as bare as
a fallow field. I found a pole about 20 feet long, with a forked end, set
upright by having one end planted in the ground and fixed by many sticks
and pieces of old stumps from the river. As the natives erect similar
poles on the banks of the Darling to stretch their nets on for taking
ducks it is probable that the heaps of grass had been pulled here for
some purpose connected with the allurement of birds or animals.
(*Footnote. P. laevinode, Lindley manuscripts; panicula composita
contracta capillari, ramis pedicellisque flexuosis, spiculis acutis
glabris, gluma exteriore rotundata laxa: interiore 5-nervi, foliis
vaginis geniculisque glabris laevibus.)
HILLS BEYOND THE DARLING.
June 20.
The morning was fine but a heavy dew had fallen during the night. We
proceeded across ground quite open, herbless, and so very soft that even
my horse waded through it with difficulty. At length we gained some
gentle rises at the base of which the soil was a clay, so tenacious as to
have hollows in its surface which, during wet seasons, had evidently
retained water for a considerable time. A fine hill, apparently connected
with a range extending northward, at length became visible beyond the
right bank of the river and, as I had previously observed in one or two
similar cases, the Darling took a westerly turn towards the hill, so that
this day's journey was not much to the south of west. On one of the low
eminences which we crossed a new species of parrot was shot, having
scarlet feathers on the breast, those on the head and wings being tinged
a beautiful blue, and on the back, etc. a dark brownish green.* The round
knolls consist of a red earth which is different from the soil of the
plains; its basis appearing to be ironstone. We encamped on good firm
ground, and there was abundance of good grass on the riverbank. We were
not very far from the heights on the opposite side; a branch from them
extending nearly to the river.
(*Footnote. This bird has since been named by Mr. Gould Platycercus
haematogaster.)
June 21.
The ground was much better this day for travelling over. We passed
through a scrub of limited extent, and for the first time in these parts
we discovered a new species of casuarina. On ascending a small hill to
the left of our route I perceived two summits of a distant range, bearing
169 degrees 20 minutes (from North) and I was not sorry to see that the
intervening country was better wooded and undulated more than that we had
lately traversed, for wherever trees or bushes grew, we generally found
the ground to be hardest. We were compelled to travel much farther than I
intended in order to reach the river, which took a great sweep to the
west, a change in its direction which I had previously observed to take
place in the course of this river on approaching a similar feature on the
right bank. The river was narrower and its channel more contracted at
this part than at any other I had seen; indeed so great was the change in
the dimensions that I doubted whether this was more than an arm of it.
The current however ran at about the same rate, and the general course
for some miles to the southward was marked out, as usual, by large trees.
At the camp the head of the range on the right bank bore North 16 degrees
West.
CONVENIENT REFRACTION.
June 22.
The distant range which I observed during the journey of yesterday
appeared high above the horizon of our camp this morning, and the
refracted image was so perfect that with my glass I could distinguish the
trees and other objects. Thus I obtained bearings on the range from a
spot whence it could be but seldom visible. The small eminences to the
eastward, from which I first saw that range, were also refracted, and
appeared like cliffs on a sea coast. To the astonishment of the men all
the hills however soon disappeared. The Darling took some bends eastward
of south; and we were much troubled during this day's journey by the soft
ground through which we were obliged to travel in order to keep clear of
the river. At length I could proceed south-west, and on reaching, at 12
1/4 miles, a bend in the channel, I saw one of the low ridges extending
westward. On ascending it I discovered a range to the south-west,
apparently connected with that already seen to the south, and from the
many beaten paths of the natives it seemed probable that this angle was
the nearest to the hilly country which lay to the south-east.
NATIVE HUTS.
There were also permanent huts on both banks, the first of the kind I had
seen, large enough certainly to contain a family of 15 persons; and in
one there had recently been a fire. They were semicircular and
constructed of branches of trees, well thatched with straw, forming
altogether a covering of about a foot in thickness, and they were well
able to afford a ready and dry shelter in bad weather. In this respect
the inhabitants of that part of the Darling may be considered somewhat
before their brethren further eastward as rational beings. These
permanent huts seemed also to indicate a race of more peaceful and
settled habits, for where the natives are often at war such habitations
could neither be permanent nor safe. The river was here itself again, and
not contracted as at the last encampment.
INTERVIEW WITH THE RED TRIBE.
June 23.
Early this morning the natives were heard hailing us from the woods, and
as soon as I had breakfasted I advanced to them with Burnett. They were
seventeen in number, and five or six of the foremost held out green
boughs. I also pulled one, but they called to me and beckoned me to lay
aside my sword, which I accordingly did, and then they all sat down. They
had good, expressive countenances, but they were not strong-looking men.
One, whose physiognomy I thought very prepossessing, and much improved by
the cheeks and other features being coloured red, appeared to be their
chief. He sat in the middle of the front row, and though he said but
little yet he was addressed by the more forward and talkative. This
rough, manly, rosy-faced fellow was such a figure as Neptune or Jupiter
are usually represented; he had also a flowing beard. The group were
almost all marked with the smallpox. I could not gain any certain
information from them about the course of the river or the bearing of the
nearest sea; but they all pointed to the north-north-west when I made
signs of rowing in water, or of large waves, etc. On quitting them I
presented the king with a greyhound pup and a tomahawk. A total ignorance
of the nature of the latter was a proof that we were indeed strangers to
them; for, although the tool had a handle, they knew not what use to make
of it until I showed them. We left them quite delighted with both gifts,
which were doubtless as important to them as the discovery of a sea would
then have been to me. The journey of this day opened prospects the most
promising for such a discovery, for the river from that bend pursued a
more westerly course. Ranges beyond ranges arose also in the south-west,
while vast plains, without any indication of the Darling among them,
extended before us to the west-south-west. I had some trouble indeed to
get as near to the river as was indispensable for encampment; but at
length we halted on a firm bit of ground, close to a very sharp bend in
its course.
HOW TO AVOID THE SANDY HILLS AND SOFT PLAINS.
June 24.
We possessed nearly west over open ground skirted on the south by gentle
eminences of red earth. There plains of soft naked soil were most
distressing to the bullocks, and even to horses and men on foot; in the
general direction of the river these plains extended to the horizon, but
the southern boundary of small hills was a peculiar feature, not observed
higher up. Though the base of these eminences consisted of fine blue
clay, yet their tops were so sandy and soft that the carts sank deeper
than on the plains. It was my study to keep along the side of these hills
as much as my route would permit; for in general the best line for
travelling through the valley of the Darling is along the edging of stiff
clay always to be found near the base of the red sandhills, which form
the limits of those softer plains that usually extend for several miles
back from the river.
MACCULLOCH'S RANGE.
On ascending the highest of the hills on my left I discovered that the
ground to the southward was much more broken, and the appearance of a
valley between me and a range which I named after Dr. Macculloch raised
my hopes of finding some change in the country. On ascending however
another eminence to the right, I perceived the summit of a hill which
bore west-north-west, and rather discouraged my hopes respecting the
river, for I had assumed that its new direction towards the westward
would continue. We crossed the hill and encamped about two miles to the
southward of a bend of the river. Here there was a fall of about four
feet over masses of ferruginous clay with selenites embedded.* The banks
were lower at this point than usual, and the quantity of running water
was rather increased, probably from the springs which we had latterly
observed in great abundance in the banks, generally about two feet above
the surface of the stream. On the plains this day we found much selenite.
(*Footnote. This clay, in the opinion of geologists, has every appearance
of a mud deposit.)
June 25.
There was again a considerable mirage or refraction this morning on the
rising of the frost; and I hastened to a small hill near our camp that I
might behold the transient vision of a distant horizon. The view was most
interesting for the high lands on all sides appeared raised as if by
magic; and I thus discovered that the hill, previously seen in the west,
was connected with a chain which extended round to the north, and that
there was higher land to the southward of Macculloch's range; the highest
point being to the east, or east-north-east, beyond the hill discovered
on the 21 instant. The horizon was lowest towards the west-south-west,
for even in the south-west I could perceive a rise sufficient to confine
the course of the river to the west-south-west. We proceeded nearly west
by south over a soft bed of naked earth, across which, at one place, a
well-beaten road of the natives led to the valley on the south and to
some watercourse, if not to water itself. After 10 1/4 miles of weary
travelling, we encamped on a bend of the Darling, in latitude 31 degrees
31 minutes 20 seconds South.
The soil of the plains being extremely soft, uneven, and full of holes,
the cattle were at length almost unable to get through their allotted
journeys; I therefore determined to let them rest during the three
following days while I proceeded to the hills beyond the Darling, in a
west-north-west direction nearly, and distant from our camp 11 2/3 miles.
VISIT A HILL BEYOND THE DARLING.
June 26.
I forded the Darling where the bottom was a hard clay; and I proceeded in
a direction bearing 27 degrees north of west to the hill. There was much
less of the soft soil on this bank, and at a mile from the ford we
travelled on very firm clay, quite clear of vegetation, white, shining,
and level as ice. At about seven miles from the river we reached the
first rise of firm red earth. The vegetation upon it consisted of the two
species of atriplex so very common on that soil, and more of the salsolae
than I had before seen. This rise seemed to mark the extent of the bed of
clay through which the Darling flows, at least as far as we had hitherto
traced it. The country was open to about three miles from the summit
where we passed through a scrub of stunted casuarinae, interspersed with
a few of the acacia with spotted bark. Here we crossed some beds of
conglomerate, consisting of grains and pebbles of quartz, cemented by a
hard ferruginous matrix, probably decomposed felspar; and we saw soon
after a few blocks of the same hard sandstone which occurs at Dunlop's
range and other high points.
VIEW FROM ITS SUMMIT.
The summit, consisting of the same rock, was very broad and strewed with
small stones, and partly covered with a dwarf acacia bush which gave a
uniform tinge, like heath, to the whole country as far as my view
extended to the westward. The horizon to the west and south-west was
finely broken by hills resembling Oxley's Tableland and D'Urban's group,
but the day was hazy, and I looked in vain for any indication of water.
The heights towards the south-west appeared too detached also to promise
any; more resembling islands in a sea, or pinnacles, only half-emerged
from a deluge, so level was the general surface. Towards the north-west
however the heights did seem connected, and had the appearance of being
the loftier summits of very distant ranges; especially an eminence
bearing 21 degrees north of west which I named Mount Lyell. There was
also an isolated and remarkable summit which bore 50 1/2 degrees north of
west, to which I gave the name of my friend, Dr. Daubeny. The lower
ground seemed to undulate, but no part of it was intersected by open
plains or any lines of large river trees indicating the permanent
existence of water. On the contrary, as far as I could judge from colour
and outline, the same thick dwarf scrub appeared to be the universal
covering of the land; neither could I distinguish any smoke or other
trace of human inhabitants, nor even the track of a single emu or
kangaroo in that trans-Darling region. Still, it was impossible to
ascertain from the hill whether any streams did flow through the country
beyond, although appearances were by no means in favour of such a
conclusion. Neither could I distinguish from that summit, as I hoped to
do, the ultimate course of the Darling, as the line of large trees upon
its banks continued, as far as I could distinguish, in the same
direction. Another low but extensive range, exactly resembling that to
the eastward of our camp, was visible on the horizon beyond it, and
seemed to be the limit of its bed or basin on the eastern or left bank,
and the range certainly did differ most essentially in its outline from
the hills on the right bank, being the last and lowest termination of the
higher ranges in the east.
MOUNT MURCHISON.
As we descended I named the first hill beyond the Darling ever ascended
by any European after my friend Mr. Murchison, a gentleman who has so
greatly advanced the science of geology. We recrossed the river at the
ford just as the sun was going down, and I had the satisfaction to find
that no natives had visited the camp during my absence.