Continue along the Bogan, guided by the natives.
Their caution in approaching the haunts of others.
Their accurate knowledge of localities.
Introduced to the Bungan tribe.
Superiority of the King how displayed.
Dangerous mistake.
A true savage.
The king of the Bogan takes his leave.
Kangaroos numerous.
Beauty of the shrubs.
Dangerous consequence of surprising a native.
Wounded native led to our camp.
His confidence gained by kind treatment.
Oxley's Tableland.
Mr. Larmer's excursion to it.
Narrow escape from the loss of the cattle.
The party followed by a clamorous tribe.
A parley.
Their various complexions.
Decorous behaviour.
Naked plains.
A native visitor.
Soft earth of the plains.
Ride to the Darling.
The water sweet.
The party encamps on a favourable position on the river.
CONTINUE ALONG THE BOGAN, GUIDED BY THE NATIVES.
May 6.
Guided by Tackijally we proceeded, crossing the Bogan for the first time
and travelling along its right bank to Bugubada, a distance of eight
miles.
May 7.
Proceeded, again accompanied by Tackijally, under the orders of the king,
who compelled him to go, although he seemed very unwilling or lazy. The
advantage of having such guides was that being now uncertain as to the
further course of the Bogan, which had taken a great bend northward, we
could thus make straight for each proposed waterhole without following
the bends of the river. The knowledge of the people was so exact as to
localities that I could ascertain in setting out the true bearing of
those places by the direction in which they pointed; and in travelling on
such a bearing any obstacle in the way was sure to be avoided by
following the suggestions of the natives. In this manner we now
travelled.
THEIR CAUTION IN APPROACHING THE HAUNTS OF OTHERS.
Another great advantage gained in the company of the natives was our
being perfectly safe from the danger of sudden collision with a tribe.
Their caution in approaching waterholes was most remarkable; for they
always cooeyed from a great distance, and even on coming near a thick
scrub they would sometimes request me to halt until they could examine
it. This day we passed, in the channel of the Bogan, a long and deep
reach or lagoon, called Muda, of which the natives had made much mention;
but to have remained at this water would have made the day's journey too
short; so we proceeded to a smaller hole named Walwadyer, having crossed
and recrossed the dry channel of the Bogan.
May 8.
Tackijally, who had of late steadily conducted us to water, came up when
we were ready to start, and showed me the direction in which I was to
find water at the end of the day's journey which appeared to be, as he
pointed, 343 degrees. He then held up the opossum skins of his cloak,
making signs in that manner that he went to seek opossums, but should
rejoin us afterwards.
We twice crossed the Bogan in the first half mile, and then traversed an
open plain, the surface of which was flat, firm, and nearly bare. As we
reached the northern skirts the king, with Talambe Nadoo and Tackijally,
rejoined us.
THEIR ACCURATE KNOWLEDGE OF LOCALITIES.
At four miles we passed a good pond called Daumbwan. We encamped further
on at a place called Murrebouga where there was a large pond, the direct
distance from Walwadyer being 5 1/4 miles; and it was a curious test of
the accuracy of the native's local knowledge that, although he
recommended this pond of Murrebouga by merely pointing in its direction,
I had, by following with compass the course indicated, hit the very pond
to which he meant us to go.
INTRODUCED TO THE BUNGAN TRIBE.
May 9.
Again guided by Tackijally we travelled towards Darobal, the distance
being 7 1/4 miles. We several times crossed the bed of the Bogan, and in
this day's journey we were joined by Dalumbe Tuganda and others of the
Bungan tribe to whom the chief was anxious to introduce us.
SUPERIORITY OF THE KING HOW DISPLAYED.
We had this day an opportunity of witnessing his superiority in those
qualifications by which he was, no doubt, distinguished among the savage
tribes. We had overtaken a strong man with a bad countenance, prowling
along through the bush; and being, as it appeared, a friend of the
king's, he continued with us. An opossum in a tree had baffled all the
endeavours of himself and some young men to get at it, when they cooeyed
for the king. Our royal friend came, climbed the tree in an instant, and
after a cursory examination, dropped some small sticks down the hollow of
the trunk; then listening, he pointed, as by instinct, to a part of the
tree much lower down where, by making a small incision, the others
immediately got the animal out.
May 10.
We moved (on 345 degrees) for Nyngan, which we reached at half-past
twelve. We passed on our left Borribilu, and there I was introduced by
the king to a new tribe. On first espying these people seated under a
tree at a great distance near the river-bank, he directed my attention
that way by using the same gestures which he was accustomed to make in
giving me notice of a kangaroo or emu.
DANGEROUS MISTAKE.
I accordingly left my horse, going cautiously forward with my rifle. The
chief however kept by me, anxiously calling out with a pathetic voice
"Myen, myen," which words, as I afterwards learnt, meant Men! men! But it
was not until a thought had passed in my mind of firing among the group,
that I had the good fortune to discover my mistake. The figures seated
and covered with grey clay had very much the resemblance of a grey
species of kangaroo which we had often seen on the Bogan. I then went
forward with him, and was received with the most demure inattention; that
is to say, by the natives sitting cross-legged, with their eyes fixed on
the ground, which it appeared was their formal mode of expressing respect
or consideration for strangers when first received.
Nyngan was a long pond of water on which were many ducks, and those birds
called in the colony native companions.
A TRUE SAVAGE.
The blacks sat down at a fire nearer to us than usual, and the strong man
with a bad countenance particularly attracted my attention.
I prevailed on him to sit until I sketched his face; for which piece of
civility I gave him a tomahawk. Late at night, when I was about to go to
sleep, he came softly up to my tent, demanding something in a whisper. I
showed him my rifle, and gave the man on watch strict orders to look
sharp. This savage was twice afterwards caught about the carts during the
night, and in the morning he was seen pointing out to other natives the
cart on which the flour was placed. I never saw a worse countenance on
any native; and I was deprived even of the slight comfort of a doubt as
to poor Cunningham's fate on looking at it.
THE KING OF THE BOGAN TAKES HIS LEAVE.
May 11.
The king, who had most kindly accompanied us on every day's journey from
Cudduldury, carefully pointing out the open parts of the country, and the
waterholes on which to encamp, this morning took leave of us, having
previously been at some pains to introduce us to the Bungan tribe. These
last natives did not however so well understand our wants; and I was then
rather inclined to be rid of them, and push on at a faster rate than they
would allow me. I therefore refused to halt as they wished at Condurgo,
and proceeded. Our new acquaintance followed until the dogs started after
some kangaroos, and having been long absent, I sent in search of them,
when some of the natives were caught carrying off a kangaroo which the
dogs had killed, and others were decoying our animals away with them. On
the kangaroo being brought to me I gave it to the tribe, in hopes that
they would remain to eat it, and thus leave us to pursue our journey.
They followed us however carrying the kangaroo, until they came to a bend
of the Bogan where they suddenly disappeared. We finally encamped on an
open plain with tolerable pasture, and near a waterhole in the river bed.
The evening was cloudy for the first time since I had been with the party
from the commencement of the expedition; and a smart shower fell during
the night.
KANGAROOS NUMEROUS.
May 12.
We set off early, travelling over rather open ground so that we were able
to pursue the river course without difficulty, and we encamped near it on
a plain, after a journey of fourteen miles. Just as we reached the spot
which I had chosen for the camp, several kangaroos appeared, although we
had seen none previously during the day. I hunted them with the dogs
while the people were pitching the tents; and the largest was killed some
way from our camp, in a scrub; so that it was necessary to bring two men
to carry it home--no bad prize after the party had been living, for some
time, on salt provisions.
BEAUTY OF THE SHRUBS.
May 13.
We started early and the morning was beautifully serene and clear. The
shrubs which gracefully fringed the plains were very picturesque in their
outline, and the delicate tints of their green foliage contrasted
beautifully with the more prevailing light grey tinge, and with white
stems and branches; while the warmer green of one or two trees of
Australian rosewood relieved the sober greyish green of the pendent
acacia. At 5 1/2 miles the river took a westerly bend, the ground on its
banks being higher than usual. From a tree at this point two small hills
(supposed to be the Twins) bore west-north-west distant about twelve
miles. At 9 miles 35 chains the south of the Twins bore 258 degrees,
distant about four miles; at 10 miles 28 chains, the southern of the
Twins bore 249 degrees, the northern 252 degrees; and we encamped on
reaching the creek, after a journey of fifteen miles. We had a fine view
of the supposed Twins as we proceeded; and I found water on making the
river where I wished to encamp.
May 15.
At daylight we set off for the hills (which I judged to be the Twins of
Sturt) distant 8 1/4 miles. I found a group of small hills, composed of
quartz rock, the strata of which were highly inclined, and the strike
extended north-west and south-east. From the highest, which is the
southern hill, I looked in vain for New Year's range; the horizon in that
direction being quite unbroken; hence I concluded that this could not be
the Twins, and I named it Mount Hopeless. Several remarkable hills
appeared however to the west and south-west, on all of which I took
bearings with the theodolite. Their surface was naked and rocky, only a
few trees consisting of pine (or callitris) and some dwarf gumtrees
appearing on them; but the country within two miles of their base was
more densely wooded than that nearer the Bogan. There were Callitris
pyramidalis, Acacia longifolia, and eucalyptus amongst the trees, and the
soil contained fragments of quartz mixed with red earth. I heard from the
summit the mogo of a native at work on some tree close by, but saw
neither himself nor the smoke of his fire. I returned in time to put the
party in motion by twelve o'clock; and after a journey of 8 1/4 miles we
encamped, as usual, near the left bank of the Bogan. Water seemed more
abundant in this part of the river, for, on the three last occasions, we
had found some as soon as we approached the bank. The pond near our
present encampment was large and deep, and there were others above and
below it.
DANGEROUS CONSEQUENCE OF SURPRISING A NATIVE.
As the party were pitching the tents I was, according to my usual custom,
in the bed of the Bogan with the barometer, when I heard, as from a pond
lower down, some hideous yells, then a shot, and immediately afterward
our overseer shouting "hold him!" I hurried up the bank and saw a native
running, bleeding, and screaming most piteously. He was between me and
our tents, which were beyond some trees, and quite out of sight from the
Bogan; but one or two men, on their way for water, soon drew near. The
overseer came to me limping, and stated that, on approaching the pond
with his gun looking for ducks, this native was there alone, sitting with
his dog beside a small fire; that, as soon as he saw Burnett, he yelled
hideously, and running at him in a furious manner up the bank, he
immediately threw a fire-stick and one of his boomerangs, the latter of
which struck Burnett on the leg, the other having passed close over his
shoulder. The native still advancing upon him with a boomerang, he
discharged his piece in his own defence, alarmed, as any man must have
been, under such circumstances. The native kept calling out loudly and
pathetically, but he had now ceased running, perhaps from seeing the
cattle ahead of him. Notwithstanding the entreaties of the men that I
should not go within reach of his missiles, I advanced with a green
branch in my hand towards this bleeding and helpless child of nature.
HIS CONFIDENCE GAINED BY KIND TREATMENT.
Upon seeing this he immediately ceased calling out, seemed to ask some
question, and then at once threw aside the weapons which he held, and sat
down on the ground. On my going up to him, I found he had received the
shot on various parts of his body, but chiefly on his left hand and wrist
which were covered with blood.
WOUNDED NATIVE LED TO OUR CAMP.
I with difficulty prevailed on him to go with me to the tents, making
signs that I wished to dress his wounds. This The Doctor immediately did,
applying lint and Friars balsam to them. During the operation he stared
wildly around him, at the sheep and bullocks, horses, tents, etc. It was
evident he had never seen, perhaps scarcely even ever heard of, such
animals as he now saw, and certainly had never before seen a white man. I
gave him a piece of bread which he did not taste, saying he should take
it to Einer (his gin or wife). He knew not a word of the low jargon
usually taught the natives by our people; but he spoke incessantly in his
own purer language, scarcely a word of which we understood, beyond you,
two gins, fire, doctor (coradje) and to sleep. One circumstance, very
trifling certainly, to mention here, may serve however to show the
characteristic quickness of these people. He had asked for a bit of fire
to be placed beside him (the constant habit of the naked aborigines) and,
on seeing a few sparks of burning grass running towards my feet, he
called out to me "we, we" (i.e. fire, fire!) that I might avoid having my
clothes burnt. This consideration in a savage, amid so many strange
objects, and while suffering from so many new and raw wounds received
from one of us, was, at least, an instance of that natural attentiveness,
if I may so call it, which sometimes distinguishes the aborigines of
Australia. This man of the woods at length by gestures asked my
permission to depart, and also that he might take a fire-stick; and, in
going, he said much which, from his looks and gestures, I understood as
expressive of goodwill or thanks, in his way. He further asked me to
accompany him till he was clear of the bullocks, and thus he left us.
This unfortunate affair arose solely from our too suddenly approaching
the waterholes where the tribes usually resort. We had observed the
caution with which those natives who guided us always went near such
places, by preceding us a good way and calling out; I determined
therefore in future to sound my bugle where I meant to encamp, that the
natives might not be surprised by our too sudden approach, but have time
to retire if they thought proper to do so.
May 15.
We moved off early, and travelled sixteen miles, when we reached some
good ponds on the Bogan; having passed a remarkable bend in that river to
the westward.
May 16.
After proceeding a few miles on our route this morning we saw from a
tree, in the skirt of a plain, a range bearing North 331 degrees. The
bends of the creek sent me much to the westward of that direction: and we
crossed some rotten or hollow ground which delayed the carts. On
proceeding beyond this we came to a fire where we heard natives shouting,
and we then saw them running abreast of us, but I did not court a closer
acquaintance. Soon after, seeing an extensive tract of soft, broken, or
rotten ground before me, I took to the left, in order to gain a plain,
where the surface was firm. On reaching this plain, the dogs killed two
kangaroos, and a little further the soil changing, became red and firm,
with some dry ponds, and though there was little timber yet I had never
before seen several of the kinds of trees. A little before sunset we
reached a slight eminence consisting of a compound of quartz and felspar,
and from it I had a view of New Year's Range of Hume, bearing North 97
degrees, and of a higher range to the west of it. We finally encamped
without water on a fine, open, forest flat, about two miles southward of
the former range.
TRACES OF CAPTAIN STURT'S VISIT.
May 17.
At two miles from our bivouac we crossed a small rill descending to the
south-east from hills which might be New Year's range. At 5 1/4 miles we
encamped on the Bogan, the most northern but one of five hills supposed
to be the New Year's range, bearing 240 degrees. From this point the
northern extremity of the ridge extending from the hills bore 25 degrees.
At twelve o'clock I went to these heights, and on the first I ascended I
found several stumps of pine (or Callitris pyramidalis) which had been
cut down with an axe, the remains of them being still visible amongst the
ashes of a fire. I was thus satisfied that this was the hill on which
Captain Sturt's party burnt the trees when a man was missing. Still
however a better range to the westward was unaccounted for; but, on
ascending a hill which was still higher and whose rocky crest was clear
of trees, I was able to identify the whole by the bearings of the high
land as given in Captain Sturt's book, and by the strip of plain visible
in the south, which had appeared to that traveller to resemble the bed of
a rapid river. This plain happened to be the one we had crossed the day
before, and I had then observed the waterholes, also mentioned, and that
they had been long dry. No traces besides those already noticed remained
of the visit of the first discoverers of New Year's range.
During my absence three natives had been near the camp, two old men and
one very strong and tall young one. They appeared very much afraid, and
barely remained to receive the flag of truce (a green branch) sitting
with their eyes fixed on the ground and retiring soon after. I do not
think any water could be found nearer than the Bogan at this time,
although I observed hollows between the hills where it would probably
remain some time after rain, and where, I suppose, Captain Sturt's party
found it. I made the latitude of the camp to be 30 degrees 26 minutes 24
seconds, and that of the hill 30 degrees 27 minutes 45 seconds.
May 18.
We moved off to the northward, and at seven miles came upon the river
where there was a reach for about a mile of deep water; and soon after we
attained that part of it where the bed was of granite, but quite dry. The
bank was here unusually even, like that of a canal, having also little
wood; no polygonum or rhagodia appeared there. Soon after we traversed a
soil composed of gravel, about the size of stones broken for roads; the
fragments were a good deal rounded, and all of granite. We finally
encamped on the river after crossing its usual belt of soft hollow
ground, which was rather distressing to the bullocks. The roads of the
natives frequenting this part of the Bogan were well beaten, but none of
the inhabitants made their appearance.
May 19.
We started at the usual hour, keeping first to the south of west, in
order to clear the ground near the Bogan, and then on 300 degrees. I
obtained from several parts of the route bearings on the hills west by
south of New Year's range, and which were higher and more conspicuous
than the latter.
We came upon a bend of the river with good waterholes at 11 3/4 miles,
and encamped as usual on the clearest ground near it.
OXLEY'S TABLELAND.
May 20.
We moved forwards on the bearing of west-north-west until, at 5 1/2
miles, we reached the top of the Pink Hills, where, for the first time, I
saw Oxley's Tableland, bearing 5 degrees south of west, and distant
apparently about thirteen or fourteen miles, also Druid's Mount, bearing
10 1/2 degrees west of north. Seeing the first-mentioned hill so near, I
should have made for it, had I felt certain that water remained in the
swamp mentioned by Captain Sturt, and that the bullocks could reach the
hill before night. But they were now proceeding slowly and half tired;
and I considered it, upon due reflection, to be more advisable to go in a
north-west direction towards the Bogan. On the western slope of these
hills we found some of the pinks in flower, from which probably they have
been named. There was also an unusual verdure about the grass, and a
fragrance and softness in the western breeze which seemed to welcome us
to that interior region, and imparted a mildness to the air, while
picturesque clouds in the western sky led active fancy into still finer
regions under them.
We finally encamped on a plain about a mile from the Bogan where the
highest of Oxley's Tableland bore 250 degrees from north, being distant
eighteen miles. We had now reached a better country for grass than we had
seen since we left Buree; and there was still a verdure in the blade and
stalk, as well as a fulness in the tufts, which looked well for our poor
cattle after a continuous journey of sixteen days.
MR. LARMER'S EXCURSION TO IT.
May 21.
The party halted in this plain while Mr. Larmer went to Oxley's Tableland
to ascertain if the swamp there contained water. Having to take some
observations and bring up an arrear of various other matters, I could not
then visit that hill, though I wished much to do so. I found its latitude
to be 30 degrees 11 minutes 15 seconds South, and longitude 146 degrees
16 minutes 9 seconds East. The extreme lowness of the country and of the
bed of the Bogan, which was now, according to the barometer, near the
level of the sea, left little room to doubt that the Darling could be
much above that level. Mr. Larmer's report, on returning in the evening
after a ride of forty miles, was by no means in favour of Oxley's
Tableland as a place even of temporary encampment, there being no longer
any swamp containing water; on the contrary, the only water that he could
discover about the hill, after much search on and around it, was a small
spring in a hollow on the northern side. His account of the surrounding
country was equally unfavourable, for he stated that it was very brushy,
and without good grass.
NARROW ESCAPE FROM THE LOSS OF THE CATTLE.
Now it was obvious that had we, according to a suggestion sent to the
government by Captain Sturt, proceeded on the 20th of May to Oxley's
Tableland, trusting to find abundance of water, the loss of our cattle
would have been inevitable. To have reached that point we must have made
one long day's journey, and the distance thence to the nearest part of
the Bogan could not have been accomplished in another. On the third day,
the two preceding having been passed without water, the animals would
have been unable to go further.
The specimen brought from the hill by Mr. Larmer appeared to be a
quartzose conglomerate.
May 22.
I continued my journey along the Bogan, and in crossing and recrossing it
once we passed several reaches of water. The country was generally open,
and we encamped on another fine grassy plain after travelling about
twelve miles. This day, in chasing an emu, I dropped a telescope which
had been in my possession twenty-four years, having used it in the survey
of many a field of battle.
THE PARTY FOLLOWED BY A CLAMOROUS TRIBE.
May 23.
We proceeded as usual. The calls of the natives, first heard at a
distance in the woods, having become more loud and at length incessant, I
answered them in a similar tone; and having halted the carts I galloped
over a bit of clear rising-ground towards the place whence the voices
came, followed by five men.
A PARLEY.
A tribe of eighteen or twenty natives were coming forward, but the sight
of my horse galloping made those in the rear turn back, when I
immediately alighted and walked towards them with a green tuft. The two
foremost and strongest of the party came forward, and when I sat down
they advanced with boomerangs in hand. Seeing that they retained these
weapons, I arose, upon which they, understanding me immediately, threw
the boomerangs aside. I then went up to the two in advance, the tribe
following behind. The leader had lost an eye, and the three principal men
seemed very strong fellows. I invited them to come forward, but they
hesitated until my escort, which was still some way back, sat down. I
mounted my horse to show the animal's docility, and thus remove their
dread of it; but they immediately turned to run, whereupon I alighted and
led their chief a little nearer, but they were very unwilling to approach
my party. At length I presented the one-eyed leader with a tomahawk, and
they all sat down. This native seemed a manly intelligent fellow. To all
which he appeared to comprehend of what I said his answer was "Awoy,"
accompanied by a nod, as if he had said "O yes." On my mentioning
Goindura Gally, and making the signs of paddling a canoe, he pointed
immediately to the westward. This term I understood from the Bungan tribe
to mean saltwater; water being kally, gally, or gallo. So bungan gallo
was the name of the lower Bogan, and Bogan gallo that of the upper Bogan.
Goindura I understood to mean salt, in consequence of that word having
been used by the chief of the Bogan when I showed him some salt.
THEIR VARIOUS COMPLEXIONS.
Among the tribe we now communicated with there appeared a greater variety
of feature and complexion than I had ever seen in aboriginal natives
elsewhere; most of them had straight brown hair, but others had Asiatic
features, much resembling Hindoos, with a sort of woolly hair.
DECOROUS BEHAVIOUR.
There were two old men with grey beards who sat silent; and one who
maintained a very ceremonious face seemed intent on preserving decorum,
for he silenced a boy with a slight blow who had eagerly spoken while I
was endeavouring to remind them of the former exploring party. After they
had sat a very short time and I had pointed out the direction in which I
was proceeding, they arose and went away, and we continued our journey.
After we had advanced a mile or two a deep reach of the Bogan appeared on
our right, or northward; and one of the natives, followed by others who
remained at some distance behind, came up to tell us there was water. We
accordingly gave the cattle some, and then went on, finally encamping on
a bit of plain near the Bogan where Oxley's Tableland bore about
south-south-east, and having travelled nearly twelve miles. Observed
latitude 33 degrees 3 minutes 29 seconds South.
NAKED PLAINS.
May 24.
The party moved this morning about seven miles towards the west until
Oxley's Tableland bore 125 degrees. We travelled chiefly across plains
destitute of grass; and from which we had good views of that strangely
named hill, never seen by Oxley, and in fact, not a tableland.
A NATIVE VISITOR.
A native came after us, bearing a small piece of canvas which had been
thrown away at the former camp. He accompanied us during the rest of the
day's journey, and I gave him a tomahawk, and a seventh part of my old
sword blade. He continued at the camp, and asked for everything he saw,
but we took care not to understand him.
SOFT EARTH OF THE PLAINS.
All over these plains the ground was so soft, being quite clear of roots
or sward, that the cartwheels sunk very deep in it. The soil nevertheless
appeared to be excellent, although it was naked like fallow land, for the
roots of the umbelliferous plants which grew there had so little hold
that they were easily set loose by the winds and lay about the surface.
At dark five natives advanced along our track, shouting, but remaining at
a distance. I sent two men to them (one with a fire-stick) in order to
tell them we were going to sleep. Two of the party were old men, one
having hoary hair, and all five carried spears, which they stuck in the
ground, and sat down as soon as our people went up to them. After that
interview they decamped towards the Bogan.
May 25.
Early this morning the same men came to a tree, at some distance from the
tents. I went to them and showed them my watch, compass, etc.; when they
pointed to the northward, making motions by which I supposed they meant
to represent three courses of the sun; and I therefore concluded that
they had seen me on the Karaula three years before.
RIDE TO THE DARLING.
I then gave them a piece of my broken sword, and set off with a party on
horseback to see the river Darling. By half-past ten I made this river at
a distance of eight miles from our camp, by riding first three miles
west, and then five in the direction of 20 degrees north of west by
compass. The people with me immediately declared it was our old
acquaintance the Karaula, unaltered in a single feature. Here we saw the
same description of broken earthy banks; the same kind of lofty trees,
and the long, deep, and still reaches, so characteristic of a lengthened
and slumbering course.
THE WATER SWEET.
But the great question to be determined was the quality of the water,
which, appearing to me from the top of the bank, very transparent, and of
a greenish tinge, and without any indication of a current, I did not
doubt was salt, as when first discovered in nearly the same latitude by
Sturt. I was however so agreeably surprised, on descending the steep
bank, to find the taste perfectly sweet, that I began to doubt if this
river could be The Darling, thinking, from the difference in the
longitude especially, that it might still be the lower part of the Bogan,
the course of which continued westward, and on my right as I rode from
the camp. I proceeded some distance down the river, and found the reaches
to extend first west-north-west, next north-north-east (half a mile) then
south-west by south (1 1/2 miles); I was at length satisfied that this
was indeed the river Darling, and I was no less gratified in perceiving a
slight current in it with no obstruction for our boats as far as I had
yet examined. The paths of the natives were fresh-trodden, but we saw
none of them, and I returned towards the camp, where I arrived by two
P.M. The bed of the Darling at the place where we reached it could not be
elevated more, according to the state of the barometrical column (as
compared at the time with that of my barometer as it had stood at
Parramatta bridge) than 250 feet above the level of the sea.
NATIVES AFRAID OF THE SHEEP.
I found that the natives whom I had left at the camp no longer remained
there, having quitted it soon after my departure, apparently afraid of
the sheep!
May 26.
A party of our friends the natives again made their appearance; and five
of them, including the three who had visited us yesterday, took their
stations under the same tree, while a number of gins and children
remained on the border of the scrub, half a mile off. Just before the
camp broke up I went to them and gave a tomahawk to an old grey-haired
man. The chief spokesman was a ferocious forward sort of savage, to whom
I would rather have given anything than a tomahawk, from the manner in
which he handled my pockets. My horse awaited me and I by signs explained
to them that I was going. I suspect that Watta is their familiar name for
the Darling from their use of this word on any sign being made in
reference to the river.
THE PARTY ENCAMPS ON A FAVOURABLE POSITION ON THE DARLING RIVER.
We proceeded on a bearing of 251 degrees until at 15 miles and 45 chains
we reached the bank of the Darling. The cattle had been at some places
rather distressed from the heaviness of the ground, having had scarcely
any food for the last two days except a hard, dry, composite plant which
usurped the place of grass. The camp I had left, which was in other
respects a fine position, could not possibly have served as a depot for
the cattle. We were extremely fortunate however in the place to which the
bounteous hand of providence had led us. Abundance of pasture; indeed
such excellent grass as we had not seen in the whole journey, covered the
fine open forest ground on the bank of the river! There were four kinds
but the cattle appeared to relish most a strong species of anthisteria,
or kangaroo grass. But the position to which we had come, on so straight
a line, reaching it however only at sunset, surpassed anything I had
expected to find on this river. It consisted of the highest ground in the
neighbourhood, rising gradually from the lower levels by which we had
approached the river to an elevated and extensive plateau overlooking a
deep and broad reach. This was covered or protected on the north by a
green swamp which was again shut in by an extensive bend of the Darling.
On the west and north-west there was little timber in the way; and the
whole place seemed extremely favourable for the object about which I was
then most anxious, namely, the establishment of a secure depot and place
of defence.