NAVIGATION OF THE POLAR SEA, IN TWO CANOES, AS FAR AS CAPE TURNAGAIN,
TO THE EASTWARD, A DISTANCE EXCEEDING FIVE HUNDRED AND FIFTY MILES.
OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABILITY OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.
NAVIGATION OF THE POLAR SEA, IN TWO CANOES, AS FAR AS CAPE TURNAGAIN,
TO THE EASTWARD, A DISTANCE EXCEEDING FIVE HUNDRED AND FIFTY MILES.
July 20, 1821.
We intended to have embarked early this morning and to have launched
upon an element more congenial with our habits than the freshwater
navigations with their numerous difficulties and impediments which we
had hitherto encountered, but which was altogether new to our Canadian
voyagers. We were detained however by a strong north-east gale which
continued the whole day with constant thundershowers, the more
provoking as our nets procured but few fish and we had to draw upon our
store of dried meat, which, with other provision for the journey,
amounted only to fifteen days’ consumption. Indeed we should have
preferred going dinnerless to bed rather than encroach on our small
stock had we not been desirous of satisfying the appetites and cheering
the spirits of our Canadian companions at the commencement of our
voyage. These thoughtless people would at any time incur the hazard of
absolute starvation at a future period for the present gratification of
their appetites, to indulge which they do not hesitate, as we more than
once experienced, at helping themselves secretly, it being in their
opinion no disgrace to be detected in pilfering food.
Our only luxury now was a little salt which had long been our
substitute both for bread and vegetables. Since our departure from
Point Lake we had boiled the Indian tea plant, _Ledum palustre_, which
provided a beverage in smell much resembling rhubarb, notwithstanding
which we found it refreshing and were gratified to see this plant
flourishing abundantly on the sea shore though of dwarfish growth.
July 21.
The wind which had blown strong through the night became moderate in
the morning, but a dense fog prevented us from embarking until noon
when we commenced our voyage on the Hyperborean Sea. Soon afterwards we
landed on an island where the Esquimaux had erected a stage of drift
timber, and stored up many of their fishing implements and winter
sledges, together with a great many dressed seal, musk-ox, and deer
skins. Their spears, headed with bone and many small articles of the
same material, were worked with extreme neatness, as well as their
wooden dishes and cooking utensils of stone, and several articles, very
elegantly formed of bone, were evidently intended for some game, but
Augustus was unacquainted with their use. We took from this deposit
four seal-skins to repair our shoes and left in exchange a
copper-kettle, some awls and beads.
We paddled all day along the coast to the eastward on the inside of a
crowded range of islands and saw very little ice; the blink of it
however was visible to the northward, and one small iceberg was seen at
a distance. A tide was distinguishable among the islands by the foam
floating on the water but we could not ascertain its direction. In the
afternoon St. Germain killed on an island a fat deer which was a great
acquisition to us; it was the first we had seen for some months in good
condition.
Having encamped on the main shore after a run of thirty-seven miles we
set up a pole to ascertain the rise and fall of the water, which was
repeated at every halting-place, and Hepburn was ordered to attend to
the result. We found the coast well covered with vegetation of moderate
height, even in its outline, and easy of approach. The islands are
rocky and barren, presenting high cliffs of a columnar structure. I
have named the westernmost group of those we passed Berens’ Isles in
honour of the Governor of the Hudson’s Bay Company, and the easternmost
Sir Graham Moore’s Islands. At the spot where we landed some
mussel-shells and a single piece of seaweed lay on the beach; this was
the only spot on the coast where we saw shells. We were rejoiced to
find the beach strewed with abundance of small driftwood none of it
recent.
It may be remarked that the Copper-Mine River does not bring down any
driftwood, nor does any other known stream except Mackenzie’s River,
hence from its appearance on this part of the coast an easterly current
may be inferred. This evening we were all in high glee at the progress
we had made; the disappearance of the ice and the continuance of the
land in an eastern direction and our future prospects formed an
enlivening subject of conversation. The thermometer varied during the
day between 43 and 45°. The fishing-nets were set but produced nothing.
On the 22nd we embarked at four A.M. and, having the benefit of a light
breeze, continued our voyage along the coast under sail until eleven
when we halted to breakfast and to obtain the latitude. The coast up to
this point presented the same general appearance as yesterday, namely a
gravelly or sandy beach skirted by green plains, but as we proceeded
the shore became exceedingly rocky and sterile and at last, projecting
considerably to the northward, it formed a high and steep promontory.
Some ice had drifted down upon this cape which we feared might check
our progress but, as the evening was fine, we ventured upon pushing the
canoes through the small channels formed among it. After pursuing this
kind of navigation with some danger and more anxiety we landed and
encamped on a smooth rocky point whence we perceived with much
satisfaction that the ice consisted only of detached pieces which would
be removed by the first breeze. We sounded in seventeen fathoms close
to the shore this day. The least depth ascertained by the lead since
our departure from the river was six fathoms, and any ship might pass
safely between the islands and the main. The water is of a light green
colour but not very clear and much less salt than that of the Atlantic,
judging from our recollection of its taste. In the course of the day we
saw geese and ducks with their young and two deer, and experienced very
great variations of temperature from the light breezes blowing
alternately from the ice and the land. The name of Lawford’s Islands
was bestowed on a group we passed in the course of the day as a mark of
my respect for Vice-Admiral Lawford, under whose auspices I first
entered the naval service.
A fresh breeze blowing through the night had driven the ice from the
land and opened a channel of a mile in width; we therefore embarked at
nine A.M. to pursue our journey along the coast but, at the distance of
nine miles were obliged to seek shelter in Port Epworth, the wind
having become adverse and too strong to admit of our proceeding. The
Tree River of the Esquimaux which discharges its waters into this bay
appears to be narrow and much interrupted by rapids. The fishing-nets
were set but obtained only one white-fish and a few bull-heads. This
part of the coast is the most sterile and inhospitable that can be
imagined. One trap-cliff succeeds another with tiresome uniformity and
their _débris_ cover the narrow valleys that intervene, to the
exclusion of every kind of herbage. From the summit of these cliffs the
ice appeared in every direction.
We obtained the following observations during our stay: latitude 67°
42′ 15″ North, longitude 112° 30′ 00″ West, variation 47° 37′ 42″ East.
The wind abating, at eight P.M. we reembarked and soon afterwards
discovered on an island a reindeer, which the interpreters fortunately
killed. Resuming our voyage we were much impeded by the ice and at
length, being unable to force a passage through a close stream that had
collected round a cape, we put ashore at four A.M. On the 24th several
stone fox-traps and other traces of the Esquimaux were seen near the
encampment. The horizontal refraction varied so much this morning that
the upper limb of the sun twice appeared at the horizon before it
finally rose.
For the last two days the water rose and fell about nine inches. The
tides however seemed to be very irregular and we could not determine
the direction of the ebb or flood. A current setting to the eastward
was running about two miles an hour during our stay. The ice having
removed a short distance from the shore by eleven A.M. we embarked, and
with some difficulty effected a passage, then, making a traverse across
Gray’s Bay,[28] we paddled up under the eastern shore against a strong
wind. The interpreters landed here and went in pursuit of a deer but
had no success. This part of the coast is indented by deep bays which
are separated by peninsulas formed like wedges, sloping many miles into
the sea and joined by low land to the main, so that, often mistaking
them for islands, we were led by a circuitous route round the bays.
Cliffs were numerous on the islands which were all of the trap
formation.
[28] Named after Mr. Gray principal of the Belfast Academy. An island
which lies across the mouth of this bay bears the name of our English
sailor Hepburn.
At seven, a thunderstorm coming on, we encamped at the mouth of a river
about eighty yards wide and set four nets. This stream, which received
the name of Wentzel after our late companion, discharges a considerable
body of water. Its banks are sandy and clothed with herbage. The
Esquimaux had recently piled up some drift timber here. A few ducks,
ravens, and snow-birds were seen today. The distance made was
thirty-one miles.
July 25.
We had constant rain with thunder during the night. The nets furnished
only three salmon-trout. We attributed the want of greater success to
the entrance of some seals into the mouth of the river. Embarking at
six A.M. we paddled against a cold breeze until the spreading of a
thick fog caused us to land. The rocks here consisted of a beautiful
mixture of red and gray granite, traversed from north to south by veins
of red felspar which were crossed in various directions by smaller
veins filled with the same substance.
At noon the wind coming from a favourable quarter tempted us to
proceed, although the fog was unabated. We kept as close as we could to
the main shore but, having to cross some bays, it became a matter of
doubt whether we had not left the main and were running along an
island. Just as we were endeavouring to double a bold cape the fog
partially cleared away and allowed us an imperfect view of a chain of
islands on the outside, and of much heavy ice which was pressing down
upon us. The coast near us was so steep and rugged that no landing of
the cargoes could be effected and we were preserved only by some men
jumping on the rocks and thrusting the ice off with poles. There was no
alternative but to continue along this dreary shore seeking a channel
between the different masses of ice which had accumulated at the
various points. In this operation both the canoes were in imminent
danger of being crushed by the ice which was now tossed about by the
waves that the gale had excited. We effected a passage however and,
keeping close to the shore, landed at the entrance of Detention Harbour
at nine P.M., having come twenty-eight miles. An old Esquimaux
encampment was traced on this spot, and an ice chisel, a copper knife,
and a small iron knife were found under the turf. I named this cape
after Mr. Barrow of the Admiralty to whose exertions are mainly owing
the discoveries recently made in Arctic geography. An opening on its
eastern side received the appellation of Inman Harbour after my friend
the Professor at the Royal Naval College, Portsmouth, and to a group of
islands to seaward of it we gave the name of Jameson in honour of the
distinguished Professor of Mineralogy at Edinburgh.
We had much wind and rain during the night and by the morning of the
26th a great deal of ice had drifted into the inlet. We embarked at
four and attempted to force a passage, when the first canoe got
enclosed and remained for some time in a very perilous situation: the
pieces of ice, crowded together by the action of the current and wind,
pressing strongly against its feeble sides. A partial opening however
occurring we landed without having sustained any serious injury. Two
men were then sent round the bay and it was ascertained that, instead
of having entered a narrow passage between an island and the main, we
were at the mouth of a harbour having an island at its entrance, and
that it was necessary to return by the way we came and get round a
point to the northward. This was however impracticable, the channel
being blocked up by drift ice, and we had no prospect of release except
by a change of wind. This detention was extremely vexatious as we were
losing a fair wind and expending our provision. In the afternoon the
weather cleared up and several men went hunting but were unsuccessful.
During the day the ice floated backwards and forwards in the harbour,
moved by currents not regular enough to deserve the name of tide, and
which appeared to be governed by the wind. We perceived great
diminution by melting in the pieces near us. That none of this ice
survives the summer is evident from the rapidity of its decay and
because no ice of last year’s formation was hanging on the rocks.
Whether any body of it exists at a distance from the shore we could not
determine.
The land around Cape Barrow and to Detention Harbour consists of steep
craggy mountains of granite rising so abruptly from the water’s edge as
to admit few landing-places even for a canoe. The higher parts attain
an elevation of fourteen or fifteen hundred feet and the whole is
entirely destitute of vegetation.
On the morning of the 27th, the ice remaining stationary at the
entrance, we went to the bottom of the harbour and carried the canoes
and cargoes about a mile and a half across the point of land that forms
the east side of it, but the ice was not more favourable there for our
advancement than at the place we had left. It consisted of small pieces
closely packed together by the wind extending along the shore but
leaving a clear passage beyond the chain of islands with which the
whole of this coast is girt. Indeed when we left the harbour we had
little hope of finding a passage, and the principal object in moving
was to employ the men in order to prevent their reflecting upon and
discussing the dangers of our situation which we knew they were too apt
to do when leisure permitted. Our observations place the entrance of
Detention Harbour in latitude 67° 53′ 45″, longitude 110° 41′ 20″ West,
variation 40° 49′ 34″ East. It is a secure anchorage being sheltered
from the wind in every direction; the bottom is sandy.
July 28.
As the ice continued in the same state several of the men were sent out
to hunt, and one of them fired no less than four times at deer but
unfortunately without success. It was satisfactory however to ascertain
that the country was not destitute of animals. We had the mortification
to discover that two of the bags of pemmican which was our principal
reliance had become mouldy by wet. Our beef too had been so badly cured
as to be scarcely eatable through our having been compelled from haste
to dry it by fire instead of the sun. It was not however the quality of
our provision that gave us uneasiness but its diminution and the utter
incapacity to obtain any addition. Seals were the only animals that met
our view at this place and these we could never approach.
Dr. Richardson discovered near the beach a small vein of galena
traversing gneiss rocks, and the people collected a quantity of it in
the hope of adding to our stock of balls, but their endeavours to smelt
it were as may be supposed ineffectual. The drift timber on this part
of the coast consists of pine and taccamahac (_Populus balsamifera_),
most probably from Mackenzie’s or some other river to the westward of
the Copper-Mine. It all appears to have lain long in the water, the
bark being completely worn off and the ends of the pieces rubbed
perfectly smooth. There had been a sharp frost in the night which
formed a pretty thick crust of ice in a kettle of water that stood in
the tents, and for several nights thin films of ice had appeared on the
salt water amongst the cakes of stream ice.[29] Notwithstanding this
state of temperature we were tormented by swarms of mosquitoes; we had
persuaded ourselves that these pests could not sustain the cold in the
vicinity of the sea but it appears they haunt every part of this
country in defiance of climate. Mr. Back made an excursion to a hill at
seven or eight miles distance and from its summit he perceived the ice
close to the shore as far as his view extended.
[29] This is termed _bay-ice_ by the Greenland men.
On the morning of the 29th the party attended divine service. About
noon, the ice appearing less compact, we embarked to change our
situation, having consumed all the fuel within our reach. The wind came
off the land just as the canoes had started and we determined on
attempting to force a passage along the shore, in which we happily
succeeded after seven hours’ labour and much hazard to our frail
vessels. The ice lay so close that the crews disembarked on it and
effected a passage by bearing against the pieces with their poles, but
in conducting the canoes through the narrow channels thus formed the
greatest care was requisite to prevent the sharp projecting points from
breaking the bark. They fortunately received no material injury though
they were split in two places.
At the distance of three miles we came to the entrance of a deep bay
whose bottom was filled by a body of ice so compact as to preclude the
idea of a passage through it, whilst at the same time the traverse
across its mouth was attended with much danger from the approach of a
large field of ice which was driving down before the wind. The dread of
further detention however prevented us from hesitating, and we had the
satisfaction of landing in an hour and a half on the opposite shore,
where we halted to repair the canoes and to dine. I have named this bay
after my friend Mr. Daniel Moore of Lincoln’s Inn, to whose zeal for
science the Expedition was indebted for the use of a most valuable
chronometer. Its shores are picturesque, sloping hills receding from
the beach and closed with verdure bound its bottom and western side,
and lofty cliffs of slate clay with their intervening grassy valleys
skirt its eastern border. Embarking at midnight we pursued our voyage
without interruption, passing between the Stockport and Marcet Islands
and the main, until six A.M. on July 30th when, having rounded Point
Kater, we entered Arctic Sound and were again involved in a stream of
ice, but after considerable delay extricated ourselves and proceeded
towards the bottom of the inlet in search of the mouth of a river which
we supposed it to receive, from the change in the colour of the water.
About ten A.M. we landed to breakfast on a small deer which St. Germain
had killed, and sent men in pursuit of some others in sight but with
which they did not come up. Reembarking we passed the river without
perceiving it and entered a deep arm of the sound which I have named
Baillie’s Cove in honour of a relative of the lamented Mr. Hood. As it
was too late to return we encamped and, by walking across the country,
discovered the river whose mouth, being barred by low sandy islands and
banks, was not perceived when we passed it. Course and distance from
Galena Point to this encampment were South-East 3/4 South forty miles.
From the accounts of Black-Meat and Boileau at Fort Chipewyan we
considered this river to be the Anatessy, and Cape Barrow to be the
projection which they supposed to be the North-East termination of
America. The outline of the coast indeed bears some resemblance to the
chart they sketched, and the distance of this river from the
Copper-Mine nearly coincides with what we estimated the Anatessy to be
from their statements. In our subsequent journey however across the
barren grounds we ascertained that this conjecture was wrong, and that
the Anatessy, which is known to come from Rum Lake, must fall into the
sea to the eastward of this place.
Our stock of provision being now reduced to eight days’ consumption it
had become a matter of the first importance to obtain a supply and, as
we had learned from Terregannœuck that the Esquimaux frequent the
rivers at this season, I determined on seeking a communication with
them here, in the hope of obtaining relief for our present wants or
even shelter for the winter if the season should prevent us from
returning either to the Hook’s party or Fort Enterprise, and I was the
more induced to take this step at this time as several deer had been
seen today and the river appeared good for fishing, which led me to
hope we might support the party during our stay if not add to our stock
by our own exertions in hunting and fishing. Augustus, Junius, and
Hepburn were therefore furnished with the necessary presents and
desired to go along the bank of the river as far as they could on the
following day in search of the natives to obtain provision and leather
as well as information respecting the coast.
They started at four A.M. and at the same time our hunters were sent
off in search of deer, and the rest of the party proceeded in the
canoes to the first cascade in the river, at the foot of which we
encamped and set four nets. This cascade, produced by a ridge of rocks
crossing the stream, is about three or four feet in height and about
two hundred and fifty yards wide. Its position by our observations in
latitude 67° 19′ 23″ North, longitude 109° 44′ 30″ West, variation 41°
43′ 22″, dip 88° 58′ 48″. I have named this river Hood as a small
tribute to the memory of our lamented friend and companion. It is from
three to four hundred yards wide below the cascade but in many places
very shallow. The banks, bottom, and adjacent hills are formed of a
mixture of sand and clay. The ground was overspread with small willows
and the dwarf birch, both too diminutive for fuel, and the stream
brought down no driftwood. We were mortified to find the nets only
procured one salmon and five white-fish, and that we had to make
another inroad upon our dried meat.
August 1.
At two this morning the hunters returned with two small deer and a
brown bear. Augustus and Junius arrived at the same time, having traced
the river twelve miles farther up without discovering any vestige of
inhabitants. We had now an opportunity of gratifying our curiosity
respecting the bear so much dreaded by the Indians, and of whose
strength and ferocity we had heard such terrible accounts. It proved to
be a lean male of a yellowish brown colour and not longer than a common
black bear. It made a feeble attempt to defend itself and was easily
despatched. The flesh was brought to the tent but, our fastidious
voyagers supposing, from its leanness, that the animal had been sickly,
declined eating it; the officers however being less scrupulous boiled
the paws and found them excellent.
We embarked at ten A.M. and, proceeding down the river, took on board
another deer that had been killed by Crédit that evening. We then ran
along the eastern shore of Arctic Sound, distinguished by the name of
Banks’ Peninsula in honour of the late Right Honourable Sir Joseph
Banks, President of the Royal Society and, rounding Point Wollaston at
its eastern extremity, opened another extensive sheet of water, and the
remainder of the afternoon was spent in endeavouring to ascertain from
the tops of the hills whether it was another bay or merely a passage
enclosed by a chain of islands. Appearances rather favouring the latter
opinion we determined on proceeding through it to the southward. During
the delay four more deer were killed, all young and lean. It appeared
that the coast is pretty well frequented by reindeer at this season,
but it was rather singular that hitherto we had killed none (excepting
the first) but young ones of last season which were all too lean to
have been eaten by any but persons who had no choice.
We paddled along the western shore with the intention of encamping but
were prevented by the want of driftwood on the beach. This induced us
to make a traverse to an island where we put up at midnight, having
found a small bay whose shores furnished us with a little firewood. A
heavy gale came on from the westward attended with constant rain, and
one of the squalls overthrew our tents. The course and distance made
this day were north-east sixteen miles and a half. I may here mention
that Arctic Sound appeared the most convenient and perhaps the best
place for ships to anchor that we had seen along the coast, at this
season especially, when they might increase their stock of provision,
if provided with good marksmen. Deer are numerous in its vicinity,
musk-oxen also may be found up Hood’s River, and the fine sandy bottom
of the bays promises favourably for fishing with the seine. The hills
on the western side are even in their outline and slope gradually to
the water’s edge. The rocks give place to an alluvial sandy soil
towards the bottom of the Sound, but on Banks’ Peninsula rocky
eminences again prevail which are rugged and uneven but intersected by
valleys, at this time green; along their base is a fine sandy beach.
From Point Wollaston to our encampment the coast is skirted with trap
cliffs which have often a columnar form and are very difficult of
access. These cliffs lie in ranges parallel to the shore and the deer
that we killed were feeding in small marshy grassy plats that lie in
the valleys between them.
Being detained by the continuance of the gale on the 2nd of August some
men were sent out to hunt and the officers visited the tops of the
highest hills to ascertain the best channels to be pursued. The wind
abating at ten P.M. we embarked and paddled round the southern end of
the island and continued our course to the south-east. Much doubt at
this time prevailed as to the land on the right being the main shore or
merely a chain of islands. The latter opinion was strengthened by the
broken appearance of the land and the extensive view we had up Brown’s
Channel (named after my friend Mr. Robert Brown) the mouth of which we
passed and were in some apprehension of being led away from the main
shore and, perhaps after passing through a group of islands, of coming
to a traverse greater than we durst venture upon in canoes: on the
other hand the continuous appearance of the land on the north side of
the channel and its tending to the southward excited the fear that we
were entering a deep inlet.
In this state of doubt we landed often and endeavoured, from the
summits of the highest hills adjoining the shore, to ascertain the true
nature of the coast but in vain, and we continued paddling through the
channel all night against a fresh breeze, which at half-past four
increased to a violent gale and compelled us to land. The gale
diminished a short time after noon on the 3rd and permitted us to
reembark and continue our voyage until four P.M., when it returned with
its former violence and finally obliged us to encamp, having come
twenty-four miles on a south-east three-quarter south course.
From the want of driftwood to make a fire we had fasted all day and
were under the necessity in the evening of serving out pemmican, which
was done with much reluctance, especially as we had some fresh deers’
meat remaining. The inlet when viewed from a high hill adjoining to our
encampment exhibited so many arms that the course we ought to pursue
was more uncertain than ever. It was absolutely necessary however to
see the end of it before we could determine that it was not a strait.
Starting at three A.M. on the 4th we paddled the whole day through
channels from two to five or six miles wide, all tending to the
southward. In the course of the day’s voyage we ascertained that the
land which we had seen on our right since yesterday morning consisted
of several large islands which have been distinguished by the names of
Goulburn, Elliott, and Young, but the land on our left preserved its
unbroken appearance and when we encamped we were still uncertain
whether it was the eastern side of a deep sound or merely a large
island. It differed remarkably from the main shore, being very rugged,
rocky, and sterile, whereas the outline of the main on the opposite
side was even and its hills covered with a comparatively good sward of
grass exhibiting little naked rock. There was no drift timber but the
shores near the encampment were strewed with small pieces of willow
which indicated our vicinity to the mouth of a river. This fuel enabled
us to make a hearty supper from a small deer killed this evening.
The shallows we passed this day were covered with shoals of _capelin_,
the angmaggϟk of the Esquimaux. It was known to Augustus who informed
us that it frequents the coast of Hudson’s Bay and is delicate eating.
The course and distance made was south by east-half-east, thirty-three
miles.
After paddling twelve miles in the morning of the 5th we had the
mortification to find the inlet terminated by a river, the size of
which we could not ascertain as the entrance was blocked by shoals. Its
mouth lies in latitude 66° 30′ North, longitude 107° 53′ West. I have
named this stream Back as a mark of my friendship for my associate.[30]
We were somewhat consoled for the loss of time in exploring this inlet
by the success of Junius in killing a musk-ox, the first we had seen on
the coast; and afterwards by the acquisition of the flesh of a bear
that was shot as we were returning up the eastern side in the evening.
The latter proved to be a female in very excellent condition; and our
Canadian voyagers whose appetite for fat meat is insatiable were
delighted.
[30] From subsequent conversation with the Copper Indians we were
inclined to suppose this may be the Thlueetessy described by Black
Meat mentioned in a former part of the narrative.
We encamped on the shores of a sandy bay and set the nets and, finding
a quantity of dried willows on the beach, we were enabled to cook the
bear’s flesh which was superior to any meat we tasted on the coast. The
water fell two feet at this place during the night. Our nets produced a
great variety of fish, namely a salmon trout, some round-fish,
tittameg, bleak, star-fish, several herrings and a flat fish resembling
plaice, but covered on the back with horny excrescences.
On the 6th we were detained in the encampment by stormy weather until
five P.M. when we embarked and paddled along the northern shore of the
inlet, the weather still continuing foggy but the wind moderate.
Observing on the beach a she-bear with three young ones we landed a
party to attack them but, being approached without due caution, they
took the alarm and scaled a precipitous rocky hill with a rapidity that
baffled all pursuit. At eight o’clock, the fog changing into rain, we
encamped. Many seals were seen this day but as they kept in deep water
we did not fire at them.
On August 7th the atmosphere was charged with fog and rain all the day,
but as the wind was moderate we pursued our journey; our situation
however was very unpleasant, being quite wet and without room to
stretch a limb, much less to obtain warmth by exercise. We passed a
cove which I have named after my friend Mr. W.H. Tinney, and proceeded
along the coast until five P.M. when we put up on a rocky point nearly
opposite to our encampment on the 3rd, having come twenty-three miles
on a north-north-west course.
We were detained on the 8th by a northerly gale which blew violently
throughout the day attended by fog and rain. Some of the men went out
to hunt but they saw no other animal than a white wolf which could not
be approached. The fresh meat being expended a little pemmican was
served out this evening.
The gale abated on the morning of the 9th and the sea, which it had
raised, having greatly subsided, we embarked at seven A.M. and, after
paddling three or four miles, opened Sir J.A. Gordon’s Bay into which
we penetrated thirteen miles and then discovered from the summit of a
hill that it would be in vain to proceed in this direction in search of
a passage out of the inlet.
Our breakfast diminished our provision to two bags of pemmican and a
single meal of dried meat. The men began to apprehend absolute want of
food and we had to listen to their gloomy forebodings of the deer
entirely quitting the coast in a few days. As we were embarking however
a large bear was discovered on the opposite shore which we had the good
fortune to kill, and the sight of this fat meat relieved their fears
for the present. Dr. Richardson found in the stomach of this animal the
remains of a seal, several marmots (_Arctomys richardsonii_) a large
quantity of the liquorice root of Mackenzie (_hedysarum_) which is
common on these shores, and some berries. There was also intermixed
with these substances a small quantity of grass.
We got again into the main inlet and paddled along its eastern shore
until forty minutes after eight A.M. when we encamped in a small cove.
We found a single log of driftwood; it was pine and sufficiently large
to enable us to cook a portion of the bear which had a slight fishy
taste but was deemed very palatable.
August 10.
We followed up the east border of the inlet about twenty-four miles and
at length emerged into the opens sea, a body of islands to the westward
concealing the channel by which we had entered. Here our progress was
arrested by returning bad weather. We killed a bear and its young cub
of this year on the beach near our encampment. We heartily
congratulated ourselves at having arrived at the eastern entrance of
this inlet which had cost us nine invaluable days in exploring. It
contains several secure harbours, especially near the mouth of Back’s
River where there is a sandy bottom in forty fathoms.
On the 3rd and 4th of August we observed a fall of more than two feet
in the water during the night. There are various irregular and partial
currents in the inlet which may be attributed to the wind. I have
distinguished it by the name of Bathurst’s Inlet after the noble
Secretary of State under whose orders I had the honour to act. It runs
about seventy-six miles south-east from Cape Everitt but in coasting
its shores we went about one hundred and seventy-four geographical
miles. It is remarkable that none of the Indians with whom we had
spoken mentioned this inlet, and we subsequently learned that in their
journeys they strike across from the mouth of one river to the mouth of
another without tracing the intermediate line of coast.
August 11.
Embarking at five A.M. we rounded Point Everitt and then encountered a
strong breeze and heavy swell which, by causing the canoes to pitch
very much, greatly impeded our progress. Some deer being seen grazing
in a valley near the beach we landed and sent St. Germain and Adam in
pursuit of them who soon killed three which were very small and lean.
Their appearance however quite revived the spirits of our men who had
suspected that the deer had retired to the woods. It would appear from
our not having seen any in passing along the shores of Bathurst’s Inlet
that at this season they confine themselves to the sea-coast and the
islands. The magpie-berries (_Arbutus alpina_) were found quite ripe at
this place, and very abundant on the acclivities of the hills. We also
ascended the highest hill and gained a view of a distant chain of
islands extending as far as the eye could reach, and perceived a few
patches of ice still lingering round to some of them, but in every
other part the sea was quite open. Resuming our voyage after noon we
proceeded along the coast which is fringed by islands, and at five P.M.
entered another bay where we were for some time involved in our late
difficulties by the intricacy of the passages, but we cleared them in
the afternoon and encamped near the northern entrance of the bay at a
spot which had recently been visited by a small party of Esquimaux, as
the remains of some eggs containing young were lying beside some
half-burnt firewood. There were also several piles of stones put up by
them. I have named this bay after my friend Captain David Buchan of the
Royal Navy. It appears to be a safe anchorage, well sheltered from the
wind and sea by islands; the bottom is sandy, the shores high and
composed of red sandstone. Two deer were seen on its beach but could
not be approached. The distance we made today was eighteen miles and
three-quarters.
Embarking at four on the morning of the 12th we proceeded against a
fresh piercing north-east wind which raised the waves to a height that
quite terrified our people, accustomed only to the navigation of rivers
and lakes. We were obliged however to persevere in our advance, feeling
as we did that the short season for our operations was hastening away,
but after rounding Cape Croker the wind became so strong that we could
proceed no farther. The distance we had made was only six miles on a
north-east by east course. The shore on which we encamped is formed of
the _débris_ of red sandstone and is destitute of vegetation. The beach
furnished no driftwood and we dispensed with our usual meal rather than
expend our pemmican. Several deer were seen but the hunters could not
approach them; they killed two swans. We observed the latitude 68° 1′
20″ where we had halted to breakfast this morning.
August 13.
Though the wind was not much diminished we were urged by the want of
firewood to venture upon proceeding. We paddled close to the shore for
some miles and then ran before the breeze with reefed sails scarcely
two feet in depth. Both the canoes received much water and one of them
struck twice on sunken rocks. At the end of eighteen miles we halted to
breakfast in a bay which I have named after Vice-Admiral Sir William
Johnstone Hope, one of the Lords of the Admiralty.
We found here a considerable quantity of small willows such as are
brought down by the rivers we had hitherto seen, and hence we judged
that a river discharges itself into the bottom of this bay. A paddle
was also found which Augustus on examination declared to be made after
the fashion of the White Goose Esquimaux, a tribe with whom his
countrymen had had some trading communication as has been mentioned in
a former part of the narrative.
This morning we passed the embouchure of a pretty large stream and saw
the vestiges of an Esquimaux encampment not above a month old. Having
obtained the latitude 68° 6′ 40″ North we recommenced our voyage under
sail, taking the precaution to embark all the pieces of willow we could
collect, as we had found the driftwood become more scarce as we
advanced. Our course was directed to a distant point which we supposed
to be a cape, and the land stretching to the westward of it to be
islands, but we soon found ourselves in an extensive bay from which no
outlet could be perceived but the one by which we had entered. On
examination however from the top of a hill we perceived a winding
shallow passage running to the north-west which we followed for a short
time and then encamped, having come twenty-three miles north by east
half east.
Some articles left by the Esquimaux attracted our attention; we found a
winter sledge raised upon four stones, with some snow-shovels and a
small piece of whalebone. An ice-chisel, a knife and some beads were
left at this pile. The shores of this bay, which I have named after Sir
George Warrender, are low and clayey and the country for many miles is
level and much intersected with water, but we had not leisure to
ascertain whether they were branches of the bay or freshwater lakes.
Some white geese were seen this evening and some young gray ones were
caught on the beach being unable to fly. We fired at two reindeer but
without success.
On August 14th we paddled the whole day along the northern shores of
the sound, returning towards its mouth. The land we were now tracing is
generally so flat that it could not be descried from the canoes at the
distance of four miles and is invisible from the opposite side of the
sound, otherwise a short traverse might have saved us some days. The
few eminences that are on this side were mistaken for islands when seen
from the opposite shore; they are for the most part cliffs of basalt
and are not above one hundred feet high; the subjacent strata are of
white sandstone. The rocks are mostly confined to the capes and shores,
the soil inland being flat, clayey, and barren. Most of the headlands
showed traces of visits from the Esquimaux but none of them recent.
Many ducks were seen, belonging to a species termed by the voyagers
from their cry caccawees. We also saw some gray geese and swans. The
only seal we procured during our voyage was killed this day; it
happened to be blind and our men imagining it to be in bad health would
not taste the flesh; we however were less nice.
We encamped at the end of twenty-four miles’ march on the north-west
side of the bay to which I have given the name of my friend Captain
Parry, now employed in the interesting research for a North-West
Passage. Driftwood had become very scarce and we found none near the
encampment; a fire however was not required as we served out pemmican
for supper and the evening was unusually warm.
On the following morning the breeze was fresh and the waves rather
high. In paddling along the west side of Parry’s Bay we saw several
deer but, owing to the openness of the country, the hunters could not
approach them. They killed however two swans that were moulting,
several cranes and many gray geese. We procured also some caccawees
which were then moulting and assembled in immense flocks. In the
evening, having rounded Point Beechy and passed Hurd’s Islands, we were
exposed to much inconvenience and danger from a heavy rolling sea, the
canoes receiving many severe blows and shipping a good deal of water,
which induced us to encamp at five P.M. opposite to Cape Croker which
we had passed on the morning of the 12th; the channel which lay between
our situation and it being about seven miles wide. We had now reached
the northern point of entrance into this sound which I have named in
honour of Lord Viscount Melville, the first Lord of the Admiralty. It
is thirty miles wide from east to west and twenty from north to south,
and in coasting it we had sailed eighty-seven and a quarter
geographical miles. Shortly after the tents were pitched Mr. Back
reported from the steersman that both canoes had sustained material
injury during this day’s voyage. I found on examination that fifteen
timbers of the first canoe were broken, some of them in two places, and
that the second canoe was so loose in the frame that its timbers could
not be bound in the usual secure manner, and consequently there was
danger of its bark separating from the gunwales if exposed to a heavy
sea. Distressing as were these circumstances they gave me less pain
than the discovery that our people, who had hitherto displayed in
following us through dangers and difficulties no less novel than
appalling to them a courage beyond our expectation, now felt serious
apprehensions for their safety which so possessed their minds that they
were not restrained even by the presence of their officers from
expressing them. Their fears we imagined had been principally excited
by the interpreters, St. Germain and Adam, who from the outset had
foreboded every calamity; and we now strongly suspected that their
recent want of success in hunting had proceeded from an intentional
relaxation in their efforts to kill deer in order that the want of
provision might compel us to put a period to our voyage.
I must now mention that many concurrent circumstances had caused me
during the few last days to meditate on the approach of this painful
necessity. The strong breezes we had encountered for some days led me
to fear that the season was breaking up and severe weather would soon
ensue which we could not sustain in a country destitute of fuel. Our
stock of provision was now reduced to a quantity of pemmican only
sufficient for three days’ consumption and the prospect of increasing
it was not encouraging for, though reindeer were seen, they could not
be easily approached on the level shores we were now coasting, besides
it was to be apprehended they would soon migrate to the south. It was
evident that the time spent in exploring the Arctic and Melville Sounds
and Bathurst’s Inlet had precluded the hope of reaching Repulse Bay,
which at the outset of the voyage we had fondly cherished, and it was
equally obvious that, as our distance from any of the trading
establishments would increase as we proceeded, the hazardous traverse
across the barren grounds which we should have to make if compelled to
abandon the canoes upon any part of the coast would become greater.
I this evening communicated to the officers my sentiments on these
points as well as respecting our return and was happy to find that
their opinions coincided with my own. We were all convinced of the
necessity of putting a speedy termination to our advance as our hope of
meeting the Esquimaux and procuring provision from them could now
scarcely be retained, but yet we were desirous of proceeding until the
land should be seen trending again to the eastward, that we might be
satisfied of its separation from what we had conceived, in passing from
Cape Barrow to Bathurst’s Inlet, to be a great chain of islands. As it
was needful however at all events to set a limit to our voyage I
announced my determination of returning after four days’ examination,
unless indeed we should previously meet the Esquimaux and be enabled to
make some arrangement for passing the winter with them. This
communication was joyfully received by the men and we hoped that the
industry of our hunters being once more excited we should be able to
add to our stock of provision.
It may here be remarked that we observed the first regular return of
the tides in Warrender’s and Parry’s Bays, but their set could not be
ascertained. The rise of water did not amount to more than two feet.
Course today south one quarter east-nine miles and a quarter.
August 16.
Some rain fell in the night but the morning was unusually fine. We set
forward at five A.M. and the men paddled cheerfully along the coast for
ten miles when a dense fog caused us to land on Slate-clay Point. Here
we found more traces of the Esquimaux and the skull of a man placed
between two rocks. The fog dispersed at noon and we discerned a group
of islands to the northward which I have named after Vice-Admiral Sir
George Cockburn, one of the Lords of the Admiralty. Reembarking we
rounded the point and entered Walker’s Bay (so-called after my friend
Admiral Walker) where as in other instances the low beach which lay
between several high trap cliffs could not be distinguished until we
had coasted down the east side nearly to the bottom of the bay. When
the continuity of the land was perceived we crossed to the western
shore and on landing discovered a channel leading through a group of
islands. Having passed through this channel we ran under sail by the
Porden Islands, across Riley’s Bay and, rounding a cape which now bears
the name of my lamented friend Captain Flinders, had the pleasure to
find the coast trending north-north-east, with the sea in the offing
unusually clear of islands, a circumstance which afforded matter of
wonder to our Canadians who had not previously had an uninterrupted
view of the ocean.
Our course was continued along the coast until eight P.M. when a change
in the wind and a threatening thunder-squall induced us to encamp, but
the water was so shallow that we found some difficulty in approaching
the shore. Large pieces of driftwood gave us assurance that we had
finally escaped from the bays. Our tents were scarcely pitched before
we were assailed by a heavy squall and rain, which was succeeded by a
violent gale from west-north-west which thrice overset the tents during
the night. The wind blew with equal violence on the following day and
the sea rolled furiously upon the beach. The Canadians had now an
opportunity of witnessing the effect of a storm upon the sea and the
sight increased their desire of quitting it.
Our hunters were sent out and saw many deer but the flatness of the
country defeated their attempts to approach them; they brought however
a few unfledged geese. As there was no appearance of increasing our
stock of provision the allowance was limited to a handful of pemmican
and a small portion of portable soup to each man per day. The
thermometer this afternoon stood to 41°. The following observations
were obtained: latitude 68° 18′ 50″ North, longitude 110° 5′ 15″ West,
but 109° 25′ 00″ West was used in the construction of the chart as the
chronometers were found, on our return to Hood’s River, to have altered
their rates; variation 44° 15′ 46″ East and dip of the needle 89° 31′
12″.
On August 18th, the stormy weather and sea continuing, there was no
prospect of our being able to embark. Dr. Richardson, Mr. Back, and I
therefore set out on foot to discover whether the land within a day’s
march inclined more to the east. We went from ten to twelve miles along
the coast, which continued flat, and kept the same direction as the
encampment. The most distant land we saw had the same bearing
north-north-east, and appeared like two islands which we estimated to
be six or seven miles off; the shore on their side seemingly tended
more to the east so that it is probable Point Turnagain, for so this
spot was named, forms the pitch of a low flat cape.
Augustus killed a deer in the afternoon but the men were not able to
find it. The hunters found the burrows of a number of white foxes and
Hepburn killed one of these animals, which proved excellent eating,
equal to the young geese with which it was boiled and far superior to
the lean deer we had upon the coast. Large flocks of geese passed over
the tents flying to the southward. The lowest temperature today was
38°.
Though it will appear from the chart that the position of Point
Turnagain is only six degrees and a half to the east of the mouth of
the Copper-Mine River, we sailed, in tracing the deeply-indented coast,
five hundred and fifty-five geographical miles, which is little less
than the direct distance between the Copper-Mine River and Repulse Bay,
supposing the latter to be in the longitude assigned to it by
Middleton.
When the many perplexing incidents which occurred during the survey of
the coast are considered in connection with the shortness of the period
during which operations of the kind can be carried on, and the distance
we had to travel before we could gain a place of shelter for the
winter, I trust it will be judged that we prosecuted the enterprise as
far as was prudent and abandoned it only under a well-founded
conviction that a farther advance would endanger the lives of the whole
party and prevent the knowledge of what had been done from reaching
England. The active assistance I received from the officers in
contending with the fears of the men demands my warmest gratitude.
OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABILITY OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.
Our researches, as far as they have gone, favour the opinion of those
who contend for the practicability of a North-West Passage. The general
line of coast probably runs east and west, nearly in the latitude
assigned to Mackenzie’s River, the Sound into which Kotzebue entered,
and Repulse Bay, and I think there is little doubt of a continued sea
in or about that line of direction. The existence of whales too on this
part of the coast, evidenced by the whalebone we found in Esquimaux
Cove, may be considered as an argument for an open sea; and a
connection with Hudson’s Bay is rendered more probable from the same
kind of fish abounding on the coasts we visited, and on those to the
north of Churchill River. I allude more particularly to the Capelin or
Salmo arcticus which we found in large shoals in Bathurst’s Inlet and
which not only abounds, as Augustus told us, in the bays in his
country, but swarms in the Greenland firths.[31] The portion of the sea
over which we passed is navigable for vessels of any size; the ice we
met, particularly after quitting Detention Harbour, would not have
arrested a strong boat. The chain of islands affords shelter from all
heavy seas and there are good harbours at convenient distances. I
entertain indeed sanguine hopes that the skill and exertions of my
friend Captain Parry will soon render this question no longer
problematical. His task is doubtless an arduous one and if ultimately
successful may occupy two and perhaps three seasons but, confiding as I
do from personal knowledge in his perseverance and talent for
surmounting difficulties, the strength of his ships, and the abundance
of provisions with which they are stored, I have very little
apprehension of his safety. As I understand his object was to keep the
coast of America close on board he will find in the spring of the year,
before the breaking up of the ice can permit him to pursue his voyage,
herds of deer flocking in abundance to all parts of the coast, which
may be procured without difficulty, and even later in the season
additions to his stock of provision may be obtained on many parts of
the coast, should circumstances give him leisure to send out hunting
parties. With the trawl or seine nets also he may almost everywhere get
abundance of fish even without retarding his progress. Under these
circumstances I do not conceive that he runs any hazard of wanting
provisions should his voyage be prolonged even beyond the latest period
of time which is calculated upon. Drift timber may be gathered at many
places in considerable quantities and there is a fair prospect of his
opening a communication with the Esquimaux who come down to the coast
to kill seals in the spring previous to the ice breaking up, and from
whom, if he succeeds in conciliating their goodwill, he may obtain
provision and much useful assistance.
[31] Arctic Zoology volume ii. page 394.
If he makes for Copper-Mine River, as he probably will do, he will not
find it in the longitude as laid down on the charts, but he will
probably find what would be more interesting to him, a post which we
erected on the 26th August at the mouth of Hood’s River which is
nearly, as will appear hereafter, in that longitude, with a flag upon
it and a letter at the foot of it, which may convey to him some useful
information. It is possible however that he may keep outside of the
range of islands which skirt this part of the coast.