JOURNEY ACROSS THE BARREN GROUNDS. DIFFICULTY AND DELAY IN CROSSING
COPPER-MINE RIVER. MELANCHOLY AND FATAL RESULTS THEREOF. EXTREME MISERY
OF THE WHOLE PARTY. MURDER OF MR. HOOD. DEATH OF SEVERAL OF THE
CANADIANS. DESOLATE STATE OF FORT ENTERPRISE. DISTRESS SUFFERED AT THAT
PLACE. DR. RICHARDSON’S NARRATIVE. MR. BACK’S NARRATIVE. CONCLUSION.
JOURNEY ACROSS THE BARREN GROUNDS.
August 17, 1821.
My original intention, whenever the season should compel us to
relinquish the survey, had been to return by the Copper-Mine River and,
in pursuance of my arrangement with the Hook, to travel to Slave Lake
through the line of woods extending thither by the Great Bear and
Marten Lakes, but our scanty stock of provision and the length of the
voyage rendered it necessary to make for a nearer place. We had already
found that the country between Cape Barrow and the Copper-Mine River
would not supply our wants, and this it seemed probable would now be
still the case, besides at this advanced season we expected the
frequent recurrence of gales which would cause great detention if not
danger in proceeding along that very rocky part of the coast.
I determined therefore to make at once for Arctic Sound where we had
found the animals more numerous than at any other place and, entering
Hood’s River, to advance up that stream as far as it was navigable and
then to construct small canoes out of the materials of the larger ones,
which could be carried in crossing the barren grounds to Fort
Enterprise.
August 19.
We were almost beaten out of our comfortless abodes by rain during the
night and this morning the gale continued without diminution. The
thermometer fell to 33°. Two men were sent with Junius to search for
the deer which Augustus had killed. Junius returned in the evening,
bringing part of the meat but, owing to the thickness of the weather,
his companions parted from him and did not make their appearance.
Divine service was read. On the 20th we were presented with the most
chilling prospect, the small pools of water being frozen over, the
ground covered with snow, and the thermometer at the freezing-point at
midday. Flights of geese were passing to the southward. The wind
however was more moderate, having changed to the eastward. Considerable
anxiety prevailing respecting Belanger and Michel, the two men who
strayed from Junius yesterday, the rest were sent out to look for them.
The search was successful and they all returned in the evening. The
stragglers were much fatigued and had suffered severely from the cold,
one of them having his thighs frozen and, what under our present
circumstances was most grievous, they had thrown away all the meat. The
wind during the night returned to the north-west quarter, blew more
violently than ever, and raised a very turbulent sea. The next day did
not improve our condition, the snow remained on the ground, and the
small pools were frozen. Our hunters were sent out but they returned
after a fatiguing day’s march without having seen any animals. We made
a scanty meal off a handful of pemmican, after which only half a bag
remained.
The wind abated after midnight and the surf diminished rapidly, which
caused us to be on the alert at a very early hour on the 22nd, but we
had to wait until six A.M. for the return of Augustus who had continued
out all night on an unsuccessful pursuit of deer. It appears that he
had walked a few miles further along the coast than the party had done
on the 18th and, from a sketch he drew on the sand, we were confirmed
in our former opinion that the shore inclined more to the eastward
beyond Point Turnagain. He also drew a river of considerable size that
discharges its waters into Walker’s Bay, on the banks of which stream
he saw a piece of wood such as the Esquimaux use in producing fire, and
other marks so fresh that he supposed they had recently visited the
spot. We therefore left several iron materials for them and, embarking
without delay, prepared to retrace our steps.[32] Our men, cheered by
the prospect of returning, showed the utmost alacrity and, paddling
with unusual vigour, carried us across Riley’s and Walker’s Bays, a
distance of twenty miles before noon, when we landed on Slate-clay
Point as the wind had freshened too much to permit us to continue the
voyage. The whole party went to hunt but returned without success in
the evening, drenched with the heavy rain which commenced soon after
they had set out. Several deer were seen but could not be approached in
this naked country and, as our stock of pemmican did not admit of
serving out two meals, we went dinnerless to bed.
[32] It is a curious coincidence that our Expedition left Point
Turnagain on August 22,—on the same day that Captain Parry sailed out
of Repulse Bay. The parties were then distant from each other 539
miles.
Soon after our departure this day a sealed tin-case, sufficiently
buoyant to float, was thrown overboard, containing a short account of
our proceedings and the position of the most conspicuous points. The
wind blew off the land, the water was smooth and, as the sea is in this
part more free from islands than in any other, there was every
probability of its being driven off the shore into the current which,
as I have before mentioned, we suppose, from the circumstance of
Mackenzie’s River being the only known stream that brings down the wood
we have found along the shores, to set to the eastward.
August 23.
A severe frost caused us to pass a comfortless night. At two P.M. we
set sail and the men voluntarily launched out to make a traverse of
fifteen miles across Melville Sound before a strong wind and heavy sea.
The privation of food under which our voyagers were then labouring
absorbed every other terror; otherwise the most powerful persuasion
could not have induced them to attempt such a traverse. It was with the
utmost difficulty that the canoes were kept from turning their
broadsides to the waves, though we sometimes steered with all the
paddles. One of them narrowly escaped being overset by this accident,
which occurred in a mid-channel where the waves were so high that the
masthead of our canoe was often hid from the other, though it was
sailing within hail.
The traverse however was made; we were then near a high rocky lee shore
on which a heavy surf was beating. The wind being on the beam, the
canoes drifted fast to leeward and, on rounding a point, the recoil of
the sea from the rocks was so great that they were with difficulty kept
from foundering. We looked in vain for a sheltered bay to land in but
at length, being unable to weather another point, we were obliged to
put ashore on the open beach which fortunately was sandy at this spot.
The debarkation was effected fortunately without further injury than
splitting the head of the second canoe, which was easily repaired.
Our encampment being near the spot where we killed the deer on the
11th, almost the whole party went out to hunt, but returned in the
evening without having seen any game. The berries however were ripe and
plentiful and with the addition of some country tea furnished a supper.
There were some showers in the afternoon and the weather was cold, the
thermometer being 42°, but the evening and night were calm and fine. It
may be remarked that the mosquitoes disappeared when the late gales
commenced.
August 24.
Embarking at three A.M. we stretched across the eastern entrance of
Bathurst’s Inlet and arrived at an island which I have named after the
Right Honourable Colonel Barry of Newton Barry. Some deer being seen on
the beach the hunters went in pursuit of them and succeeded in killing
three females which enabled us to save our last remaining meal of
pemmican. They saw also some fresh tracks of musk-oxen on the banks of
a small stream which flowed into a lake in the centre of the island.
These animals must have crossed a channel at least three miles wide to
reach the nearest of these islands. Some specimens of variegated
pebbles and jasper were found here embedded in the amygdaloidal rock.
Reembarking at two P.M. and continuing through what was supposed to be
a channel between two islands we found our passage barred by a gravelly
isthmus of only ten yards in width; the canoes and cargoes were carried
across it and we passed into Bathurst’s Inlet through another similar
channel bounded on both sides by steep rocky hills. The wind then
changing from South-East to North-West brought heavy rain, and we
encamped at seven P.M. having advanced eighteen miles.
August 25.
Starting this morning with a fresh breeze in our favour we soon reached
that part of Barry’s Island where the canoes were detained on the 2nd
and 3rd of this month and, contrary to what we then experienced, the
deer were now plentiful. The hunters killed two and relieved us from
all apprehension of immediate want of food. From their assembling at
this time in such numbers on the islands nearest to the coast we
conjectured that they were about to retire to the main shore. Those we
saw were generally females with their young and all of them very lean.
The wind continued in the same direction until we had rounded Point
Wollaston and then changed to a quarter which enabled us to steer for
Hood’s River, which we ascended as high as the first rapid and
encamped. Here terminated our voyage on the Arctic Sea during which we
had gone over six hundred and fifty geographical miles. Our Canadian
voyagers could not restrain their joy at having turned their backs on
the sea, and passed the evening in talking over their past adventures
with much humour and no little exaggeration. The consideration that the
most painful, and certainly the most hazardous, part of the journey was
yet to come did not depress their spirits at all. It is due to their
character to mention that they displayed much courage in encountering
the dangers of the sea, magnified to them by their novelty.
The shores between Cape Barrow and Cape Flinders, including the
extensive branches of Arctic and Melville Sounds and Bathurst’s Inlet,
may be comprehended in one great gulf which I have distinguished by the
appellation of George IV’s Coronation Gulf in honour of His Most
Gracious Majesty, the latter name being added to mark the time of its
discovery. The archipelago of islands which fringe the coast from
Copper-Mine River to Point Turnagain I have named in honour of His
Royal Highness the Duke of York.
It may be deserving of notice that the extremes in temperature of the
seawater during our voyage were 53 and 35°, but its general temperature
was between 43 and 48°. Throughout our return from Point Turnagain we
observed that the sea had risen several feet above marks left at our
former encampments. This may perhaps be attributed to the north-west
gales.
August 26.
Previous to our departure this morning an assortment of iron materials,
beads, looking-glasses, and other articles were put up in a conspicuous
situation for the Esquimaux and the English Union was planted on the
loftiest sandhill where it might be seen by any ships passing in the
offing. Here also was deposited in a tin box a letter containing an
outline of our proceedings, the latitude and longitude of the principal
places, and the course we intended to pursue towards Slave Lake.
Embarking at eight A.M. we proceeded up the river which is full of
sandy shoals but sufficiently deep for canoes in the channels. It is
from one hundred to two hundred yards wide and is bounded by high and
steep banks of clay. We encamped at a cascade of eighteen or twenty
feet high which is produced by a ridge of rock crossing the river and
the nets were set. A mile below this cascade Hood’s River is joined by
a stream half its own size which I have called James’ Branch. Bear and
deer tracks had been numerous on the banks of the river when we were
here before but not a single recent one was to be seen at this time.
Crédit however killed a small deer at some distance inland which, with
the addition of berries, furnished a delightful repast this evening.
The weather was remarkably fine and the temperature so mild that the
mosquitoes again made their appearance, but not in any great numbers.
Our distance made today was not more than six miles.
The next morning the net furnished us with ten white-fish and trout.
Having made a further deposit of ironwork for the Esquimaux we pursued
our voyage up the river, but the shoals and rapids in this part were so
frequent that we walked along the banks the whole day and the crews
laboured hard in carrying the canoes thus lightened over the shoals or
dragging them up the rapids, yet our journey in a direct line was only
about seven miles. In the evening we encamped at the lower end of a
narrow chasm through which the river flows for upwards of a mile. The
walls of this chasm are upwards of two hundred feet high, quite
perpendicular and in some places only a few yards apart. The river
precipitates itself into it over a rock, forming two magnificent and
picturesque falls close to each other. The upper fall is about sixty
feet high and the lower one at least one hundred but perhaps
considerably more, for the narrowness of the chasm into which it fell
prevented us from seeing its bottom and we could merely discern the top
of the spray far beneath our feet. The lower fall is divided into two
by an insulated column of rock which rises about forty feet above it.
The whole descent of the river at this place probably exceeds two
hundred and fifty feet. The rock is very fine felspathose sandstone. It
has a smooth surface and a light red colour. I have named these
magnificent cascades Wilberforce Falls as a tribute of my respect for
that distinguished philanthropist and Christian. Messrs. Back and Hood
took beautiful sketches of this majestic scene.
The river, being surveyed from the summit of a hill above these falls,
appeared so rapid and shallow that it seemed useless to attempt
proceeding any farther in the large canoes. I therefore determined on
constructing out of their materials two smaller ones of sufficient size
to contain three persons for the purpose of crossing any river that
might obstruct our progress. This operation was accordingly commenced
and by the 31st, both the canoes being finished, we prepared for our
departure on the following day.
The leather which had been preserved for making shoes was equally
divided among the men, two pairs of flannel socks were given to each
person, and such articles of warm clothing as remained were issued to
those who most required them. They were also furnished with one of the
officers’ tents. This being done I communicated to the men my intention
of proceeding in as direct a course as possible to the part of Point
Lake opposite our spring encampment, which was only distant one hundred
and forty-nine miles in a straight line. They received the
communication cheerfully, considered the journey to be short, and left
me in high spirits to arrange their own packages. The stores, books,
etc., which were not absolutely necessary to be carried were then put
up in boxes to be left _en cache_ here, in order that the men’s burdens
might be as light as possible.
The next morning was warm and very fine. Everyone was on the alert at
an early hour, being anxious to commence the journey. Our luggage
consisted of ammunition, nets, hatchets, ice chisels, astronomical
instruments, clothing, blankets, three kettles, and the two canoes,
which were each carried by one man. The officers carried such a portion
of their own things as their strength would permit; the weight carried
by each man was about ninety pounds, and with this we advanced at the
rate of about a mile an hour including rests. In the evening the
hunters killed a lean cow out of a large drove of musk-oxen; but the
men were too much laden to carry more than a small portion of its
flesh. The alluvial soil which, towards the mouth of the river, spreads
into plains covered with grass and willows, was now giving place to a
more barren and hilly country, so that we could but just collect
sufficient brushwood to cook our suppers. The part of the river we
skirted this day was shallow and flowed over a bed of sand, its width
about one hundred and twenty yards. About midnight our tent was blown
down by a squall and we were completely drenched with rain before it
could be repitched.
On the morning of the 1st of September a fall of snow took place; the
canoes became a cause of delay from the difficulty of carrying them in
a high wind, and they sustained much damage through the falls of those
who had charge of them. The face of the country was broken by hills of
moderate elevation but the ground was plentifully strewed with small
stones which, to men bearing heavy burdens and whose feet were
protected only by soft moose-skin shoes, occasioned great pain. At the
end of eleven miles we encamped and sent for a musk-ox and a deer which
St. Germain and Augustus had killed. The day was extremely cold, the
thermometer varying between 34 and 36°. In the afternoon a heavy fall
of snow took place on the wind changing from north-west to south-west.
We found no wood at the encampment but made a fire of moss to cook the
supper and crept under our blankets for warmth. At sunrise the
thermometer was at 31° and the wind fresh from north-west, but the
weather became mild in the course of the forenoon and the snow
disappeared from the gravel. The afternoon was remarkably fine and the
thermometer rose to 50°. One of the hunters killed a musk-ox. The hills
in this part are lower and more round-backed than those we passed
yesterday, exhibiting but little naked rock; they were covered with
lichens.
Having ascertained from the summit of the highest hill near the tents
that the river continued to preserve a west course and, fearing that by
pursuing it farther we might lose much time and unnecessarily walk over
a great deal of ground, I determined on quitting its banks the next day
and making as directly as we could for Point Lake. We accordingly
followed the river on the 3rd only to the place where the musk-ox had
been killed last evening and, after the meat was procured, crossed the
river in our two canoes lashed together. We now emerged from the valley
of the river and entered a level but very barren country, varied only
by small lakes and marshes, the ground being covered with small stones.
Many old tracks of reindeer were seen in the clayey soil and some more
recent traces of the musk-ox. We encamped on the borders of Wright’s
River which flows to the eastward, the direct distance walked today
being ten miles and three-quarters. The next morning was very fine and
as the day advanced the weather became quite warm. We set out at six
A.M. and, having forded the river, walked over a perfectly level
country interspersed with small lakes which communicated with each
other by streams running in various directions. No berry-bearing plants
were found in this part, the surface of the earth being thinly covered
in the moister places with a few grasses, and on the drier spots with
lichens.
Having walked twelve miles and a half we encamped at seven P.M. and
distributed our last piece of pemmican and a little arrowroot for
supper which afforded but a scanty meal. This evening was warm but dark
clouds overspread the sky. Our men now began to find their burdens very
oppressive and were much fatigued by this day’s march but did not
complain. One of them was lame from an inflammation in the knee. Heavy
rain commenced at midnight and continued without intermission until
five in the morning, when it was succeeded by snow on the wind changing
to north-west, which soon increased to a violent gale. As we had
nothing to eat and were destitute of the means of making a fire, we
remained in our beds all the day, but the covering of our blankets was
insufficient to prevent us from feeling the severity of the frost and
suffering inconvenience from the drifting of the snow into our tents.
There was no abatement of the storm next day; our tents were completely
frozen and the snow had drifted around them to a depth of three feet,
and even in the inside there was a covering of several inches on our
blankets. Our suffering from cold in a comfortless canvas tent in such
weather with the temperature at 20° and without fire will easily be
imagined; it was however less than that which we felt from hunger.
The morning of the 7th cleared up a little but the wind was still
strong and the weather extremely cold. From the unusual continuance of
the storm we feared the winter had set in with all its rigour and that
by longer delay we should only be exposed to an accumulation of
difficulties; we therefore prepared for our journey although we were in
a very unfit condition for starting, being weak from fasting and our
garments stiffened by the frost. We had no means of making a fire to
thaw them, the moss, at all times difficult to kindle, being now
covered with ice and snow. A considerable time was consumed in packing
up the frozen tents and bed clothes, the wind blowing so strong that no
one could keep his hands long out of his mittens.
Just as we were about to commence our march I was seized with a
fainting fit in consequence of exhaustion and sudden exposure to the
wind but, after eating a morsel of portable soup, I recovered so far as
to be able to move on. I was unwilling at first to take this morsel of
soup, which was diminishing the small and only remaining meal for the
party, but several of the men urged me to it with much kindness. The
ground was covered a foot deep with snow, the margins of the lakes were
encrusted with ice, and the swamps over which we had to pass were
entirely frozen but the ice, not being sufficiently strong to bear us,
we frequently plunged knee-deep in water. Those who carried the canoes
were repeatedly blown down by the violence of the wind and they often
fell from making an insecure step on a slippery stone; on one of these
occasions the largest canoe was so much broken as to be rendered
utterly unserviceable. This we felt was a serious disaster as the
remaining canoe having through mistake been made too small, it was
doubtful whether it would be sufficient to carry us across a river.
Indeed we had found it necessary in crossing Hood’s River to lash the
two canoes together. As there was some suspicion that Benoit, who
carried the canoe, had broken it intentionally, he having on a former
occasion been overheard by some of the men to say that he would do so
when he got it in charge, we closely examined him on the point; he
roundly denied having used the expressions attributed to him, and
insisted that it was broken by his falling accidentally and, as he
brought men to attest the latter fact who saw him tumble, we did not
press the matter further. I may here remark that our people had
murmured a good deal at having to carry two canoes, though they were
informed of the necessity of taking both in case it should be deemed
advisable to divide the party, which it had been thought probable we
should be obliged to do if animals proved scarce, in order to give the
whole the better chance of procuring subsistence, and also for the
purpose of sending forward some of the best walkers to search for
Indians and to get them to meet us with supplies of provision. The
power of doing this was now at an end. As the accident could not be
remedied we turned it to the best account by making a fire of the bark
and timbers of the broken vessel and cooked the remainder of our
portable soup and arrowroot. This was a scanty meal after three days’
fasting but it served to allay the pangs of hunger and enabled us to
proceed at a quicker pace than before. The depth of the snow caused us
to march in Indian file, that is in each other’s steps, the voyagers
taking it in turn to lead the party. A distant object was pointed out
to this man in the direction we wished to take and Mr. Hood followed
immediately behind him to renew the bearings and keep him from
deviating more than could be helped from the mark. It may be here
observed that we proceeded in this manner throughout our route across
the barren grounds.
In the afternoon we got into a more hilly country where the ground was
strewed with large stones. The surface of these was covered with
lichens of the genus _gyrophora_ which the Canadians term _tripe de
roche_. A considerable quantity was gathered and with half a partridge
each (which we shot in the course of the day) furnished a slender
supper which we cooked with a few willows dug up from beneath the snow.
We passed a comfortless night in our damp clothes but took the
precaution of sleeping upon our socks and shoes to prevent them from
freezing. This plan was afterwards adopted throughout the journey.
At half-past five in the morning we proceeded and after walking about
two miles came to Cracroft’s River, flowing to the westward with a very
rapid current over a rocky channel. We had much difficulty in crossing
this, the canoe being useless, not only from the bottom of the channel
being obstructed by large stones, but also from its requiring gumming,
an operation which, owing to the want of wood and the frost, we were
unable to perform. However after following the course of the river some
distance we effected a passage by means of a range of large rocks that
crossed a rapid. As the current was strong and many of the rocks were
covered with water to the depth of two or three feet, the men were
exposed to much danger in carrying their heavy burdens across, and
several of them actually slipped into the stream but were immediately
rescued by the others. Junius went farther up the river in search of a
better crossing-place and did not rejoin us this day. As several of the
party were drenched from head to foot and we were all wet to the
middle, our clothes became stiff with the frost and we walked with much
pain for the remainder of the day. The march was continued to a late
hour from our anxiety to rejoin the hunters who had gone before, but we
were obliged to encamp at the end of ten miles and a quarter without
seeing them. Our only meal today consisted of a partridge each (which
the hunters shot) mixed with _tripe de roche_. This repast, although
scanty for men with appetites such as our daily fatigue created, proved
a cheerful one and was received with thankfulness. Most of the men had
to sleep in the open air in consequence of the absence of Crédit who
carried their tent, but we fortunately found an unusual quantity of
roots to make a fire, which prevented their suffering much from the
cold though the thermometer was at 17°.
We started at six on the 9th and at the end of two miles regained our
hunters who were halting on the borders of a lake amidst a clump of
stunted willows. This lake stretched to the westward as far as we could
see and its waters were discharged by a rapid stream one hundred and
fifty yards wide. Being entirely ignorant where we might be led by
pursuing the course of the lake, and dreading the idea of going a mile
unnecessarily out of the way, we determined on crossing the river if
possible, and the canoe was gummed for the purpose, the willows
furnishing us with fire. But we had to await the return of Junius
before we could make the traverse. In the meantime we gathered a little
_tripe de roche_, and breakfasted upon it and a few partridges that
were killed in the morning. St. Germain and Adam were sent upon some
recent tracks of deer. Junius arrived in the afternoon and informed us
that he had seen a large herd of musk-oxen on the banks of Cracroft’s
River, and had wounded one of them but it escaped. He brought about
four pounds of meat, the remains of a deer that had been devoured by
the wolves. The poor fellow was much fatigued, having walked throughout
the night but, as the weather was particularly favourable for our
crossing the river, we could not allow him to rest. After he had taken
some refreshment we proceeded to the river. The canoe being put into
the water was found extremely ticklish, but it was managed with much
dexterity by St. Germain, Adam, and Peltier, who ferried over one
passenger at a time, causing him to lie flat in its bottom, by no means
a pleasant position owing to its leakiness, but there was no
alternative. The transport of the whole party was effected by five
o’clock and we walked about two miles farther and encamped, having come
five miles and three-quarters on a south-west course. Two young alpine
hares were shot by St. Germain which with the small piece of meat
brought in by Junius furnished the supper of the whole party. There was
no _tripe de roche_ here. The country had now become decidedly hilly
and was covered with snow. The lake preserved its western direction as
far as I could see from the summit of the highest mountain near the
encampment. We subsequently learned from the Copper Indians that the
part at which we had crossed the river was the _Congecatha-wha-chaga_
of Hearne, of which I had little idea at the time, not only from the
difference of latitude, but also from its being so much farther east of
the mouth of the Copper-Mine River than his track is laid down, he only
making one degree and three-quarters’ difference of longitude and we
upwards of four. Had I been aware of the fact several days’ harassing
march and a disastrous accident would have been prevented by keeping on
the western side of the lake instead of crossing the river. We were
informed also that this river is the Anatessy or River of Strangers and
is supposed to fall into Bathurst’s Inlet, but although the Indians
have visited its mouth their description was not sufficient to identify
it with any of the rivers whose mouths we had seen. It probably
discharges itself in that part of the coast which was hid from our view
by Goulbourn’s or Elliott’s Islands.
September 10.
We had a cold north wind and the atmosphere was foggy. The thermometer
18° at five A.M. In the course of our march this morning we passed many
small lakes and the ground, becoming higher and more hilly as we
receded from the river, was covered to a much greater depth with snow.
This rendered walking not only extremely laborious but also hazardous
in the highest degree, for the sides of the hills, as is usual
throughout the barren grounds, abounding in accumulations of large
angular stones, it often happened that the men fell into the
interstices with their loads on their backs, being deceived by the
smooth appearance of the drifted snow. If anyone had broken a limb here
his fate would have been melancholy indeed; we could neither have
remained with him nor carried him on. We halted at ten to gather _tripe
de roche_, but it was so frozen that we were quite benumbed with cold
before a sufficiency could be collected even for a scanty meal. On
proceeding our men were somewhat cheered by observing on the sandy
summit of a hill, from whence the snow had been blown, the summer track
of a man, and afterwards by seeing several deer tracks on the snow.
About noon the weather cleared up a little and, to our great joy, we
saw a herd of musk-oxen grazing in a valley below us. The party
instantly halted and the best hunters were sent out; they approached
the animals with the utmost caution, no less than two hours being
consumed before they got within gunshot. In the meantime we beheld
their proceedings with extreme anxiety, and many secret prayers were
doubtless offered up for their success. At length they opened their
fire and we had the satisfaction of seeing one of the largest cows
fall; another was wounded but escaped. This success infused spirit into
our starving party. To skin and cut up the animal was the work of a few
minutes. The contents of the stomach were devoured upon the spot, and
the raw intestines which were next attacked were pronounced by the most
delicate amongst us to be excellent. A few willows whose tops were seen
peeping through the snow in the bottom of the valley were quickly
grubbed, the tents pitched, and supper cooked and devoured with
avidity. This was the sixth day since we had had a good meal, the
_tripe de roche_, even where we got enough, only serving to allay the
pangs of hunger for a short time. After supper two of the hunters went
in pursuit of the herd but could not get near them. I do not think that
we witnessed through the course of our journey a more striking proof of
the wise dispensation of the Almighty and of the weakness of our own
judgment than on this day. We had considered the dense fog which
prevailed throughout the morning as almost the greatest inconvenience
that could have befallen us, since it rendered the air extremely cold
and prevented us from distinguishing any distant object towards which
our course could be directed. Yet this very darkness enabled the party
to get to the top of the hill which bounded the valley wherein the
musk-oxen were grazing without being perceived. Had the herd discovered
us and taken alarm our hunters in their present state of debility would
in all probability have failed in approaching them.
We were detained all the next day by a strong southerly wind and were
much incommoded in the tents by the drift snow. The temperature was
20°. The average for the last ten days about 24°. We restricted
ourselves to one meal this day as we were at rest and there was only
meat remaining sufficient for the morrow.
The gale had not diminished on the 12th and, as we were fearful of its
continuance for some time, we determined on going forward; our only
doubt regarded the preservation of the canoe, but the men promised to
pay particular attention to it, and the most careful persons were
appointed to take it in charge. The snow was two feet deep and the
ground much broken, which rendered the march extremely painful. The
whole party complained more of faintness and weakness than they had
ever done before; their strength seemed to have been impaired by the
recent supply of animal food. In the afternoon the wind abated and the
snow ceased; cheered with the change we proceeded forward at a quicker
pace and encamped at six P.M. having come eleven miles. Our supper
consumed the last of our meat.
We set out on the 13th in thick hazy weather and, after an hour’s
march, had the extreme mortification to find ourselves on the borders
of a large lake; neither of its extremities could be seen and, as the
portion which lay to the east seemed the widest, we coasted along to
the westward portion in search of a crossing-place. This lake being
bounded by steep and lofty hills our march was very fatiguing. Those
sides which were exposed to the sun were free from snow and we found
upon them some excellent berries. We encamped at six P.M. having come
only six miles and a half. Crédit was then missing and he did not
return during the night. We supped off a single partridge and some
_tripe de roche;_ this unpalatable weed was now quite nauseous to the
whole party and in several it produced bowel complaints. Mr. Hood was
the greatest sufferer from this cause. This evening we were extremely
distressed at discovering that our improvident companions since we left
Hood’s River had thrown away three of the fishing-nets and burnt the
floats; they knew we had brought them to procure subsistence for the
party when the animals should fail, and we could scarcely believe the
fact of their having wilfully deprived themselves of this resource,
especially when we considered that most of them had passed the greater
part of their servitude in situations where the nets alone had supplied
them with food. Being thus deprived of our principal resource, that of
fishing, and the men evidently getting weaker every day, it became
necessary to lighten their burdens of everything except ammunition,
clothing, and the instruments that were required to find our way. I
therefore issued directions to deposit at this encampment the dipping
needle, azimuth compass, magnet, a large thermometer, and a few books
we had carried, having torn out of these such parts as we should
require to work the observations for latitude and longitude. I also
promised, as an excitement to the efforts in hunting, my gun to St.
Germain, and an ample compensation to Adam or any of the other men who
should kill any animals. Mr. Hood on this occasion lent his gun to
Michel the Iroquois, who was very eager in the chase and often
successful.
September 14.
This morning, the officers being assembled round a small fire, Perrault
presented each of us with a small piece of meat which he had saved from
his allowance. It was received with great thankfulness, and such an act
of self-denial and kindness being totally unexpected in a Canadian
voyager filled our eyes with tears. In directing our course to a river
issuing from the lake we met Crédit who communicated the joyful
intelligence of his having killed two deer in the morning. We instantly
halted and, having shared the deer that was nearest to us, prepared
breakfast. After which the other deer was sent for and we went down to
the river, which was about three hundred yards wide and flowed with
great velocity through a broken rocky channel. Having searched for a
part where the current was most smooth, the canoe was placed in the
water at the head of a rapid, and St. Germain, Solomon Belanger, and I
embarked in order to cross. We went from the shore very well, but in
mid-channel the canoe became difficult to manage under our burden as
the breeze was fresh. The current drove us to the edge of the rapid,
when Belanger unluckily applied his paddle to avert the apparent danger
of being forced down it, and lost his balance. The canoe was overset in
consequence in the middle of the rapid. We fortunately kept hold of it
until we touched a rock where the water did not reach higher than our
waists; here we kept our footing, notwithstanding the strength of the
current, until the water was emptied out of the canoe. Belanger then
held the canoe steady whilst St. Germain placed me in it and afterwards
embarked himself in a very dexterous manner. It was impossible however
to embark Belanger, as the canoe would have been hurried down the rapid
the moment he should have raised his foot from the rock on which he
stood. We were therefore compelled to leave him in his perilous
situation. We had not gone twenty yards before the canoe, striking on a
sunken rock, went down. The place being shallow we were again enabled
to empty it and the third attempt brought us to the shore. In the
meantime Belanger was suffering extremely, immersed to his middle in
the centre of a rapid, the temperature of which was very little above
the freezing-point, and the upper part of his body covered with wet
clothes, exposed in a temperature not much above zero to a strong
breeze. He called piteously for relief and St. Germain on his return
endeavoured to embark him but in vain. The canoe was hurried down the
rapid and when he landed he was rendered by the cold incapable of
further exertion and Adam attempted to embark Belanger but found it
impossible. An attempt was next made to carry out to him a line made of
the slings of the men’s loads. This also failed, the current acting so
strongly upon it as to prevent the canoe from steering and it was
finally broken and carried down the stream. At length when Belanger’s
strength seemed almost exhausted the canoe reached him with a small
cord belonging to one of the nets and he was dragged perfectly
senseless through the rapid. By the direction of Dr. Richardson he was
instantly stripped and, being rolled up in blankets, two men undressed
themselves and went to bed with him: but it was some hours before he
recovered his warmth and sensations. As soon as Belanger was placed in
his bed the officers sent over my blankets and a person to make a fire.
Augustus brought the canoe over and in returning he was obliged to
descend both the rapids before he could get across the stream, which
hazardous service he performed with the greatest coolness and judgment.
It is impossible to describe my sensations as I witnessed the various
unsuccessful attempts to relieve Belanger. The distance prevented my
seeing distinctly what was going on and I continued pacing up and down
upon the rock on which I landed, regardless of the coldness of my
drenched and stiffening garments. The canoe in every attempt to reach
him was hurried down the rapid, and was lost to view amongst the rocky
islets with a rapidity that seemed to threaten certain destruction;
once indeed I fancied that I saw it overwhelmed in the waves. Such an
event would have been fatal to the whole party. Separated as I was from
my companions without gun, ammunition, hatchet, or the means of making
a fire, and in wet clothes, my doom would have been speedily sealed. My
companions too, driven to the necessity of coasting the lake, must have
sunk under the fatigue of rounding its innumerable arms and bays which
as we have learned from the Indians are very extensive. By the goodness
of Providence however we were spared at that time and some of us have
been permitted to offer up our thanksgivings in a civilised land for
the signal deliverances we then and afterwards experienced.
By this accident I had the misfortune to lose my portfolio containing
my journal from Fort Enterprise together with all the astronomical and
meteorological observations made during the descent of the Copper-Mine
River and along the sea-coast (except those for the dip and variation).
I was in the habit of carrying it strapped across my shoulders but had
taken it off on entering the canoe to reduce the upper weight. The
results of most of the observations for latitude and longitude had been
registered in the sketch-books so that we preserved the requisites for
the construction of the chart. The meteorological observations not
having been copied were lost. My companions, Dr. Richardson, Mr. Back,
and Mr. Hood, had been so careful in noting every occurrence in their
journals that the loss of mine could fortunately be well supplied.
These friends immediately offered me their documents and every
assistance in drawing up another narrative, of which kindness I availed
myself at the earliest opportunity afterwards.
September 15.
The rest of the party were brought across this morning and we were
delighted to find Belanger so much recovered as to be able to proceed,
but we could not set out until noon as the men had to prepare
substitutes for the slings which were lost yesterday. Soon after
leaving the encampment we discerned a herd of deer and after a long
chase a fine male was killed by Perrault, several others were wounded
but they escaped. After this we passed round the north end of a branch
of the lake and ascended the Willingham Mountains, keeping near the
border of the lake. These hills were steep, craggy, and covered with
snow. We encamped at seven and enjoyed a substantial meal. The party
were in good spirits this evening at the recollection of having crossed
the rapid and being in possession of provision for the next day.
Besides we had taken the precaution of bringing away the skin of the
deer to eat when the meat should fail. The temperature at six P.M. was
30°.
We started at seven next morning and marched until ten when the
appearance of a few willows peeping through the snow induced us to halt
and breakfast. Recommencing the journey at noon we passed over a more
rugged country where the hills were separated by deep ravines whose
steep sides were equally difficult to descend and to ascend, and the
toil and suffering we experienced were greatly increased.
The party was quite fatigued when we encamped, having come ten miles
and three-quarters. We observed many summer deer roads and some recent
tracks. Some marks that had been put up by the Indians were also
noticed. We have since learned that this is a regular deer pass and, on
that account, annually frequented by the Copper Indians. The lake is
called by them Contwoyto or Rum Lake in consequence of Mr. Hearne
having here given the Indians who accompanied him some of that liquor.
Fish is not found here.
We walked next day over a more level country but it was strewed with
large stones. These galled our feet a good deal; we contrived however
to wade through the snow at a tolerably quick pace until five P.M.,
having proceeded twelve miles and a half. We had made today our proper
course south by east which we could not venture upon doing before for
fear of falling again upon some branch of the Contwoyto. Some deer were
seen in the morning but the hunters failed of killing any and in the
afternoon we fell into the track of a large herd which had passed the
day before but did not overtake them. In consequence of this want of
success we had no breakfast and but a scanty supper, but we allayed the
pangs of hunger by eating pieces of singed hide. A little _tripe de
roche_[33] was also obtained. These would have satisfied us in ordinary
times but we were now almost exhausted by slender fare and travel and
our appetites had become ravenous. We looked however with humble
confidence to the Great Author and Giver of all good for a continuance
of the support which had hitherto been always supplied to us at our
greatest need. The thermometer varied today between 25 and 28°. The
wind blew fresh from the south.
[33] The different kinds of _gyrophora_ are termed indiscriminately by
the voyagers _tripe de roche_.
On the 18th the atmosphere was hazy but the day was more pleasant for
walking than usual. The country was level and gravelly and the snow
very deep. We went for a short time along a deeply-beaten road made by
the reindeer which turned suddenly off to the south-west, a direction
so wide of our course that we could not venture upon following it. All
the small lakes were frozen and we marched across those which lay in
our track. We supped off the _tripe de roche_ which had been gathered
during our halts in the course of the march. Thermometer at six P.M.
32°.
Showers of snow fell without intermission through the night but they
ceased in the morning and we set out at the usual hour. The men were
very faint from hunger and marched with difficulty, having to oppose a
fresh breeze and to wade through snow two feet deep. We gained however
ten miles by four o’clock and then encamped. The canoe was
unfortunately broken by the fall of the person who had it in charge. No
_tripe de roche_ was seen today but in clearing the snow to pitch the
tents we found a quantity of Iceland moss which was boiled for supper.
This weed not having been soaked proved so bitter that few of the party
could eat more than a few spoonfuls.
Our blankets did not suffice this evening to keep us in tolerable
warmth; the slightest breeze seeming to pierce our debilitated frames.
The reader will probably be desirous to know how we passed our time in
such a comfortless situation: the first operation after encamping was
to thaw our frozen shoes if a sufficient fire could be made, and dry
ones were put on; each person then wrote his notes of the daily
occurrences and evening prayers were read; as soon as supper was
prepared it was eaten, generally in the dark, and we went to bed and
kept up a cheerful conversation until our blankets were thawed by the
heat of our bodies and we had gathered sufficient warmth to enable us
to fall asleep. On many nights we had not even the luxury of going to
bed in dry clothes for when the fire was insufficient to dry our shoes
we durst not venture to pull them off lest they should freeze so hard
as to be unfit to put on in the morning and therefore inconvenient to
carry.
On the 20th we got into a hilly country and the marching became much
more laborious, even the stoutest experienced great difficulty in
climbing the craggy eminences. Mr. Hood was particularly weak and was
obliged to relinquish his station of second in the line which Dr.
Richardson now took to direct the leading man in keeping the appointed
course. I was also unable to keep pace with the men who put forth their
utmost speed, encouraged by the hope which our reckoning had led us to
form of seeing Point Lake in the evening, but we were obliged to encamp
without gaining a view of it. We had not seen either deer or their
tracks through the day, and this circumstance, joined to the
disappointment of not discovering the lake, rendered our voyagers very
desponding, and the meagre supper of _tripe de roche_ was little
calculated to elevate their spirits. They now threatened to throw away
their bundles and quit us, which rash act they would probably have
committed if they had known what track to pursue.
September 21.
We set out at seven this morning in dark foggy weather and changed our
course two points to the westward. The party were very feeble and the
men much dispirited; we made slow progress, having to march over a
hilly and very rugged country.
Just before noon the sun beamed through the haze for the first time for
six days and we obtained an observation in latitude 65° 7′ 06″ North,
which was six miles to the southward of that part of Point Lake to the
way our course was directed. By this observation we discovered that we
had kept to the eastward of the proper course, which may be attributed
partly to the difficulty of preserving a straight line through an
unknown country, unassisted by celestial observations and in such thick
weather that our view was often limited to a few hundred yards, but
chiefly to our total ignorance of the amount of the variation of the
compass.
We altered the course immediately to west-south-west and fired guns to
apprise the hunters who were out of our view and ignorant of our having
done so. After walking about two miles we waited to collect the
stragglers. Two partridges were killed and these with some _tripe de
roche_ furnished our supper. Notwithstanding a full explanation was
given to the men of the reasons for altering the course, and they were
assured that the observation had enabled us to discover our exact
distance from Fort Enterprise, they could not divest themselves of the
idea of our having lost our way, and a gloom was spread over every
countenance. At this encampment Dr. Richardson was obliged to deposit
his specimens of plants and minerals collected on the sea-coast, being
unable to carry them any farther. The way made today was five miles and
a quarter.
September 22.
After walking about two miles this morning we came upon the borders of
an extensive lake whose extremities could not be discerned in
consequence of the density of the atmosphere but, as its shores seemed
to approach nearer to each other to the southward than to the
northward, we determined on tracing it in that direction. We were
grieved at finding the lake expand very much beyond the contracted part
we had first seen and incline to the eastward of south. As however it
was considered more than probable, from the direction and size of the
body of water we were now tracing, that it was a branch of Point Lake,
and as in any case we knew that by passing round its south end we must
shortly come to the Copper-Mine River, our course was continued in that
direction. The appearance of some dwarf pines and willows, larger than
usual, induced us to suppose the river was near. We encamped early
having come eight miles. Our supper consisted of _tripe de roche_ and
half a partridge each.
Our progress next day was extremely slow from the difficulty of
managing the canoe in passing over the hills as the breeze was fresh.
Peltier, who had it in charge, having received several severe falls,
became impatient and insisted on leaving his burden as it had already
been much injured by the accidents of this day, and no arguments we
could use were sufficient to prevail on him to continue carrying it.
Vaillant was therefore directed to take it and we proceeded forward.
Having found that he got on very well and was walking even faster than
Mr. Hood could follow in his present debilitated state, I pushed
forward to stop the rest of the party who had got out of sight during
the delay which the discussion respecting the canoe had occasioned. I
accidentally passed the body of the men and followed the tracks of two
persons who had separated from the rest until two P.M. when, not seeing
any person, I retraced my steps, and on my way met Dr. Richardson who
had also missed the party whilst he was employed gathering _tripe de
roche_, and we went back together in search of them. We found they had
halted among some willows where they had picked up some pieces of skin
and a few bones of deer that had been devoured by the wolves last
spring. They had rendered the bones friable by burning and eaten them
as well as the skin; and several of them had added their old shoes to
the repast. Peltier and Vaillant were with them, having left the canoe
which they said was so completely broken by another fall as to be
rendered incapable of repair and entirely useless. The anguish this
intelligence occasioned may be conceived but it is beyond my power to
describe it. Impressed however with the necessity of taking it forward,
even in the state these men represented it to be, we urgently desired
them to fetch it, but they declined going and the strength of the
officers was inadequate to the task. To their infatuated obstinacy on
this occasion a great portion of the melancholy circumstances which
attended our subsequent progress may perhaps be attributed. The men now
seemed to have lost all hope of being preserved and all the arguments
we could use failed in stimulating them to the least exertion. After
consuming the remains of the bones and horns of the deer we resumed our
march, and in the evening reached a contracted part of the lake which,
perceiving it to be shallow, we forded and encamped on the opposite
side. Heavy rain began soon afterwards and continued all night. On the
following morning the rain had so wasted the snow that the tracks of
Mr. Back and his companions, who had gone before with the hunters, were
traced with difficulty, and the frequent showers during the day almost
obliterated them. The men became furious at the apprehension of being
deserted by the hunters and some of the strongest, throwing down their
bundles, prepared to set out after them, intending to leave the more
weak to follow as they could. The entreaties and threats of the
officers however prevented their executing this mad scheme, but not
before Solomon Belanger was despatched with orders for Mr. Back to halt
until we should join him. Soon afterwards a thick fog came on, but we
continued our march and overtook Mr. Back, who had been detained in
consequence of his companions having followed some recent tracks of
deer. After halting an hour, during which we refreshed ourselves with
eating our old shoes and a few scraps of leather, we set forward in the
hope of ascertaining whether an adjoining piece of water was the
Copper-Mine River or not, but were soon compelled to return and encamp
for fear of a separation of the party, as we could not see each other
at ten yards’ distance. The fog diminishing towards evening, Augustus
was sent to examine the water but, having lost his way, he did not
reach the tents before midnight when he brought the information of its
being a lake. We supped upon _tripe de roche_ and enjoyed a comfortable
fire, having found some pines seven or eight feet high in a valley near
the encampment.
The bounty of Providence was most seasonably manifested to us next
morning in our killing five small deer out of a herd which came in
sight as we were on the point of starting. This unexpected supply
reanimated the drooping spirits of our men and filled every heart with
gratitude.
The voyagers instantly petitioned for a day’s rest which we were most
reluctant to grant, being aware of the importance of every moment at
this critical period of our journey. But they so earnestly and strongly
pleaded their recent sufferings and their conviction that the quiet
enjoyment of two substantial meals after eight days’ famine would
enable them to proceed next day more vigorously, that we could not
resist their entreaties. The flesh, the skins, and even the contents of
the stomachs of the deer were equally distributed among the party by
Mr. Hood who had volunteered, on the departure of Mr. Wentzel, to
perform the duty of issuing the provision. This invidious task he had
all along performed with great impartiality, but seldom without
producing some grumbling amongst the Canadians, and on the present
occasion the hunters were displeased that the heads and some other
parts had not been added to their portions. It is proper to remark that
Mr. Hood always took the smallest portion for his own mess, but this
weighed little with these men as long as their own appetites remained
unsatisfied. We all suffered much inconvenience from eating animal food
after our long abstinence, but particularly those men who indulged
themselves beyond moderation. The Canadians, with their usual
thoughtlessness, had consumed above a third of their portions of meat
that evening.
We set out early on the 26th and, after walking about three miles along
the lake, came to the river which we at once recognised from its size
to be the Copper-Mine. It flowed to the northward and, after winding
about five miles terminated in Point Lake. Its current was swift, and
there were two rapids in this part of its course which in a canoe we
could have crossed with ease and safety. These rapids, as well as every
other part of the river, were carefully examined in search of a ford
but, finding none, the expedients occurred of attempting to cross on a
raft made of the willows which were growing there, or in a vessel
framed with willows and covered with the canvas of the tents, but both
these schemes were abandoned through the obstinacy of the interpreters
and the most experienced voyagers, who declared that they would prove
inadequate to the conveyance of the party and that much time would be
lost in the attempt. The men in fact did not believe that this was the
Copper-Mine River and, so little confidence had they in our reckoning,
and so much had they bewildered themselves on the march, that some of
them asserted it was Hood’s River and others that it was the
Bethetessy. (A river which rises from a lake to the northward of Rum
Lake and holds a course to the sea parallel with that of the
Copper-Mine.) In short their despondency had returned, and they all
despaired of seeing Fort Enterprise again. However the steady
assurances of the officers that we were actually on the banks of the
Copper-Mine River, and that the distance to Fort Enterprise did not
exceed forty miles, made some impression upon them, which was increased
upon our finding some bear-berry plants (_Arbutus uva ursi_), which are
reported by the Indians not to grow to the eastward of that river. They
then deplored their folly and impatience in breaking the canoe, being
all of opinion that had it not been so completely demolished on the
23rd it might have been repaired sufficiently to take the party over.
We again closely interrogated Peltier and Vaillant as to its state,
with the intention of sending for it; but they persisted in the
declaration that it was in a totally unserviceable condition. St.
Germain, being again called upon to endeavour to construct a canoe
frame with willows, stated that he was unable to make one sufficiently
large. It became necessary therefore to search for pines of sufficient
size to form a raft and, being aware that such trees grow on the
borders of Point Lake, we considered it best to trace its shores in
search of them; we therefore resumed our march, carefully looking but
in vain for a fordable part, and encamped at the east end of Point
Lake.
As there was little danger of our losing the path of our hunters whilst
we coasted the shores of this lake I determined on again sending Mr.
Back forward with the interpreters to hunt. I had in view in this
arrangement the further object of enabling Mr. Back to get across the
lake with two of these men to convey the earliest possible account of
our situation to the Indians. Accordingly I instructed him to halt at
the first pines he should come to and then prepare a raft and, if his
hunters had killed animals so that the party could be supported whilst
we were making our raft, he was to cross immediately with St. Germain
and Beauparlant and send the Indians to us as quickly as possible with
supplies of meat.
We had this evening the pain of discovering that two of our men had
stolen part of the officers’ provision which had been allotted to us
with strict impartiality. This conduct was the more reprehensible as it
was plain that we were suffering even in a greater degree than
themselves from the effects of famine, owing to our being of a less
robust habit and less accustomed to privations. We had no means of
punishing this crime but by the threat that they should forfeit their
wages, which had now ceased to operate.
Mr. Back and his companions set out at six in the morning and we
started at seven. As the snow had entirely disappeared and there were
no means of distinguishing the footsteps of stragglers, I gave strict
orders previously to setting out for all the party to keep together,
and especially I desired the two Esquimaux not to leave us, they having
often strayed in search of the remains of animals. Our people however,
through despondency, had become careless and disobedient and had ceased
to dread punishment or hope for reward. Much time was lost in halting
and firing guns to collect them, but the labour of walking was so much
lightened by the disappearance of the snow that we advanced seven or
eight miles along the lake before noon, exclusive of the loss of
distance in rounding its numerous bays. At length we came to an arm
running away to the north-east and apparently connected with the lake
which we had coasted on the 22nd, 23rd and 24th of the month.
The idea of again rounding such an extensive piece of water and of
travelling over so barren a country was dreadful, and we feared that
other arms equally large might obstruct our path, and that the strength
of the party would entirely fail long before we could reach the only
part where we were certain of finding wood, distant in a direct line
twenty-five miles. While we halted to consider of this subject and to
collect the party, the carcass of a deer was discovered in the cleft of
a rock into which it had fallen in the spring. It was putrid but little
less acceptable to us on that account in our present circumstances and,
a fire being kindled, a large portion was devoured on the spot,
affording us an unexpected breakfast for, in order to husband our small
remaining portion of meat we had agreed to make only one scanty meal a
day. The men, cheered by this unlooked-for supply, became sanguine in
the hope of being able to cross the stream on a raft of willows,
although they had before declared such a project impracticable, and
they unanimously entreated us to return back to the rapid, a request
which accorded with our own opinion and was therefore acceded to.
Crédit and Junius however were missing, and it was also necessary to
send notice of our intention to Mr. Back and his party. Augustus, being
promised a reward, undertook the task and we agreed to wait for him at
the rapid. It was supposed he could not fail meeting with the two
stragglers on his way to or from Mr. Back, as it was likely they would
keep on the borders of the lake. He accordingly set out after Mr. Back
whilst we returned about a mile towards the rapid and encamped in a
deep valley amongst some large willows. We supped on the remains of the
putrid deer and the men, having gone to the spot where it was found,
scraped together the contents of its intestines which were scattered on
the rock and added them to their meal. We also enjoyed the luxury today
of eating a large quantity of excellent blueberries and cranberries
(_Vaccinium uliginosum_ and _V. vitis idæa_) which were laid bare by
the melting of the snow, but nothing could allay our inordinate
appetites.
In the night we heard the report of Crédit’s gun in answer to our
signal muskets, and he rejoined us in the morning, but we got no
intelligence of Junius. We set out about an hour after daybreak, and
encamped at two P.M. between the rapids where the river was about one
hundred and thirty yards wide, being its narrowest part.
DIFFICULTY AND DELAY IN CROSSING COPPER-MINE RIVER.
Eight deer were seen by Michel and Crédit who loitered behind the rest
of the party, but they could not approach them. A great many shots were
fired by those in the rear at partridges but they missed, or at least
did not choose to add what they killed to the common stock. We
subsequently learned that the hunters often secreted the partridges
they shot and ate them unknown to the officers. Some _tripe de roche_
was collected which we boiled for supper with the moiety of the
remainder of our deer’s meat. The men commenced cutting the willows for
the construction of the raft. As an incitement to exertion I promised a
reward of three hundred livres to the first person who should convey a
line across the river by which the raft could be managed in
transporting the party.
MELANCHOLY AND FATAL RESULTS THEREOF.
September 29.
Strong south-east winds with fog in the morning, more moderate in the
evening. Temperature of the rapid 38°. The men began at an early hour
to bind the willows in fagots for the construction of the raft, and it
was finished by seven but, as the willows were green, it proved to be
very little buoyant, and was unable to support more than one man at a
time. Even on this however we hoped the whole party might be
transported by hauling it from one side to the other, provided a line
could be carried to the other bank. Several attempts were made by
Belanger and Benoit, the strongest men of the party, to convey the raft
across the stream, but they failed for want of oars. A pole constructed
by tying the tent poles together was too short to reach the bottom at a
short distance from the shore, and a paddle which had been carried from
the sea-coast by Dr. Richardson did not possess sufficient power to
move the raft in opposition to a strong breeze which blew from the
other side. All the men suffered extremely from the coldness of the
water in which they were necessarily immersed up to the waists in their
endeavours to aid Belanger and Benoit and, having witnessed repeated
failures, they began to consider the scheme as hopeless. At this time
Dr. Richardson, prompted by a desire of relieving his suffering
companions, proposed to swim across the stream with a line and to haul
the raft over. He launched into the stream with the line round his
middle but when he had got a short distance from the bank his arms
became benumbed with cold and he lost the power of moving them; still
he persevered and, turning on his back, had nearly gained the opposite
bank when his legs also became powerless and, to our infinite alarm, we
beheld him sink. We instantly hauled upon the line and he came again on
the surface and was gradually drawn ashore in an almost lifeless state.
Being rolled up in blankets he was placed before a good fire of willows
and fortunately was just able to speak sufficiently to give some slight
directions respecting the manner of treating him. He recovered strength
gradually and through the blessing of God was enabled in the course of
a few hours to converse and by the evening was sufficiently recovered
to remove into the tent. We then regretted to learn that the skin of
his whole left side was deprived of feeling in consequence of exposure
to too great heat. He did not perfectly recover the sensation of that
side until the following summer. I cannot describe what everyone felt
at beholding the skeleton which the Doctor’s debilitated frame
exhibited. When he stripped the Canadians simultaneously exclaimed “Ah!
que nous sommes maigres!” I shall best explain his state and that of
the party by the following extract from his journal: “It may be worthy
of remark that I should have had little hesitation in any former period
of my life at plunging into water even below 38° Fahrenheit, but at
this time I was reduced almost to skin and bone and, like the rest of
the party, suffered from degrees of cold that would have been
disregarded in health and vigour. During the whole of our march we
experienced that no quantity of clothing would keep us warm whilst we
fasted, but on those occasions on which we were enabled to go to bed
with full stomachs we passed the night in a warm and comfortable
manner.”
In following the detail of our friend’s narrow escape I have omitted to
mention that when he was about to step into the water he put his foot
on a dagger which cut him to the bone, but this misfortune could not
stop him from attempting the execution of his generous undertaking.
In the evening Augustus came in. He had walked a day and a half beyond
the place from whence we turned back but had neither seen Junius nor
Mr. Back. Of the former he had seen no traces but he had followed the
tracks of Mr. Back’s party for a considerable distance until the
hardness of the ground rendered them imperceptible. Junius was well
equipped with ammunition, blankets, knives, a kettle, and other
necessaries; and it was the opinion of Augustus that when he found he
could not rejoin the party he would endeavour to gain the woods on the
west end of Point Lake and follow the river until he fell in with the
Esquimaux who frequent its mouth. The Indians too with whom we have
since conversed upon this subject are confident that he would be able
to subsist himself during the winter. Crédit on his hunting excursion
today found a cap which our people recognised to belong to one of the
hunters who had left us in the spring. This circumstance produced the
conviction of our being on the banks of the Copper-Mine River which all
the assertions of the officers had hitherto failed in effecting with
some of the party, and it had the happy consequence of reviving their
spirits considerably. We consumed the last of our deer’s meat this
evening at supper.
Next morning the men went out in search of dry willows and collected
eight large fagots with which they formed a more buoyant raft than the
former but, the wind being still adverse and strong, they delayed
attempting to cross until a more favourable opportunity. Pleased
however with the appearance of this raft they collected some _tripe de
roche_ and made a cheerful supper. Dr. Richardson was gaining strength
but his leg was much swelled and very painful. An observation for
latitude placed the encampment in 65° 00′ 00″ North, the longitude
being 112° 20′ 00″ West, deduced from the last observation.
On the morning of the 1st of October the wind was strong and the
weather as unfavourable as before for crossing on the raft. We were
rejoiced to see Mr. Back and his party in the afternoon. They had
traced the lake about fifteen miles farther than we did and found it
undoubtedly connected, as we had supposed, with the lake we fell in
with on the 22nd of September and, dreading as we had done, the idea of
coasting its barren shores, they returned to make an attempt at
crossing here. St. Germain now proposed to make a canoe of the
fragments of painted canvas in which we wrapped our bedding. This
scheme appearing practicable, a party was sent to our encampment of the
24th and 25th last to collect pitch amongst the small pines that grew
there to pay over the seams of the canoe.
In the afternoon we had a heavy fall of snow which continued all night.
A small quantity of _tripe de roche_ was gathered; and Crédit, who had
been hunting, brought in the antlers and back bone of a deer which had
been killed in the summer. The wolves and birds of prey had picked them
clean but there still remained a quantity of the spinal marrow which
they had not been able to extract. This, although putrid, was esteemed
a valuable prize and the spine being divided into portions was
distributed equally. After eating the marrow, which was so acrid as to
excoriate the lips, we rendered the bones friable by burning and ate
them also.
On the following morning the ground was covered with snow to the depth
of a foot and a half and the weather was very stormy. These
circumstances rendered the men again extremely despondent; a settled
gloom hung over their countenances and they refused to pick _tripe de
roche_, choosing rather to go entirely without eating than to make any
exertion. The party which went for gum returned early in the morning
without having found any, but St. Germain said he could still make the
canoe with the willows covered with canvas, and removed with Adam to a
clump of willows for that purpose. Mr. Back accompanied them to
stimulate his exertion as we feared the lowness of his spirits would
cause him to be slow in his operations. Augustus went to fish at the
rapid but, a large trout having carried away his bait, we had nothing
to replace it.
The snow-storm continued all the night and during the forenoon of the
3rd. Having persuaded the people to gather some _tripe de roche_, I
partook of a meal with them and afterwards set out with the intention
of going to St. Germain to hasten his operations, but though he was
only three-quarters of a mile distant I spent three hours in a vain
attempt to reach him, my strength being unequal to the labour of wading
through the deep snow, and I returned quite exhausted and much shaken
by the numerous falls I had got. My associates were all in the same
debilitated state and poor Hood was reduced to a perfect shadow from
the severe bowel complaints which the _tripe de roche_ never failed to
give him. Back was so feeble as to require the support of a stick in
walking, and Dr. Richardson had lameness superadded to weakness. The
voyagers were somewhat stronger than ourselves but more indisposed to
exertion on account of their despondency. The sensation of hunger was
no longer felt by any of us, yet we were scarcely able to converse upon
any other subject than the pleasures of eating. We were much indebted
to Hepburn at this crisis. The officers were unable from weakness to
gather _tripe de roche_ themselves and Samandré, who had acted as our
cook on the journey from the coast, sharing in the despair of the rest
of the Canadians, refused to make the slightest exertion. Hepburn on
the contrary, animated by a firm reliance on the beneficence of the
Supreme Being, tempered with resignation to His will, was indefatigable
in his exertions to serve us and daily collected all the _tripe de
roche_ that was used in the officers’ mess. Mr. Hood could not partake
of this miserable fare, and a partridge which had been reserved for him
was I lament to say this day stolen by one of the men.
October 4.
The canoe being finished it was brought to the encampment and, the
whole party being assembled in anxious expectation on the beach, St.
Germain embarked and, amidst our prayers for his success, succeeded in
reaching the opposite shore. The canoe was then drawn back again and
another person transported, and in this manner, by drawing it backwards
and forwards, we were all conveyed over without any serious accident.
By these frequent traverses the canoe was materially injured, and
latterly it filled each time with water before reaching the shore, so
that all our garments and bedding were wet and there was not a
sufficiency of willows upon the side on which we now were to make a
fire to dry them.
That no time might be lost in procuring relief I immediately despatched
Mr. Back with St. Germain, Solomon Belanger, and Beauparlant to search
for the Indians, directing him to go to Fort Enterprise where we
expected they would be or where at least a note from Mr. Wentzel would
be found to direct us in our search for them. If St. Germain should
kill any animals on his way a portion of the meat was to be put up
securely for us and conspicuous marks placed over it.
It is impossible to imagine a more gratifying change than was produced
in our voyagers after we were all safely landed on the southern banks
of the river. Their spirits immediately revived, each of them shook the
officers cordially by the hand and declared they now considered the
worst of their difficulties over as they did not doubt of reaching Fort
Enterprise in a few days, even in their feeble condition. We had indeed
every reason to be grateful and our joy would have been complete had it
not been mingled with sincere regret at the separation of our poor
Esquimaux, the faithful Junius.
EXTREME MISERY OF THE WHOLE PARTY.
The want of _tripe de roche_ caused us to go supperless to bed. Showers
of snow fell frequently during the night. The breeze was light next
morning, the weather cold and clear. We were all on foot by daybreak
but, from the frozen state of our tents and bedclothes, it was long
before the bundles could be made and as usual the men lingered over a
small fire they had kindled so that it was eight o’clock before we
started. Our advance from the depth of the snow was slow, and about
noon, coming to a spot where there was some _tripe de roche_, we
stopped to collect it and breakfasted. Mr. Hood, who was now very
feeble, and Dr. Richardson, who attached himself to him, walked
together at a gentle pace in the rear of the party. I kept with the
foremost men to cause them to halt occasionally until the stragglers
came up. Resuming our march after breakfast we followed the track of
Mr. Back’s party and encamped early as all of us were much fatigued,
particularly Crédit who, having today carried the men’s tent, it being
his turn so to do, was so exhausted that when he reached the encampment
he was unable to stand. The _tripe de roche_ disagreed with this man
and with Vaillant in consequence of which they were the first whose
strength totally failed. We had a small quantity of this weed in the
evening and the rest of our supper was made up of scraps of roasted
leather. The distance walked today was six miles. As Crédit was very
weak in the morning his load was reduced to little more than his
personal luggage, consisting of his blanket, shoes and gun. Previous to
setting out the whole party ate the remains of their old shoes and
whatever scraps of leather they had to strengthen their stomachs for
the fatigue of the day’s journey. We left the encampment at nine and
pursued our route over a range of black hills. The wind, having
increased to a strong gale in the course of the morning, became
piercingly cold and the drift rendered it difficult for those in the
rear to follow the track over the heights, whilst in the valleys where
it was sufficiently marked from the depth of the snow the labour of
walking was proportionably great. Those in advance made as usual
frequent halts, yet being unable from the severity of the weather to
remain long still they were obliged to move on before the rear could
come up and the party of course straggled very much.
About noon, Samandré coming up, informed us that Crédit and Vaillant
could advance no farther. Some willows being discovered in a valley
near us I proposed to halt the party there whilst Dr. Richardson went
back to visit them. I hoped too that when the sufferers received the
information of a fire being kindled at so short a distance they would
be cheered, and use their utmost efforts to reach it, but this proved a
vain hope. The Doctor found Vaillant about a mile and a half in the
rear, much exhausted with cold and fatigue. Having encouraged him to
advance to the fire, after repeated solicitations he made the attempt,
but fell down amongst the deep snow at every step. Leaving him in this
situation the Doctor went about half a mile farther back to the spot
where Crédit was said to have halted and, the track being nearly
obliterated by the snowdrift, it became unsafe for him to go farther.
Returning he passed Vaillant who, having moved only a few yards in his
absence, had fallen down, was unable to rise, and could scarcely answer
his questions. Being unable to afford him any effectual assistance he
hastened on to inform us of his situation. When J.B. Belanger had heard
the melancholy account he went immediately to aid Vaillant and bring up
his burden. Respecting Crédit we were informed by Samandré that he had
stopped a short distance behind Vaillant, but that his intention was to
return to the encampment of the preceding evening.
When Belanger came back with Vaillant’s load he informed us that he had
found him lying on his back, benumbed with cold and incapable of being
roused. The stoutest men of the party were now earnestly entreated to
bring him to the fire, but they declared themselves unequal to the
task, and on the contrary urged me to allow them to throw down their
loads and proceed to Fort Enterprise with the utmost speed. A
compliance with their desire would have caused the loss of the whole
party, for the men were totally ignorant of the course to be pursued,
and none of the officers who could have directed the march were
sufficiently strong to keep up at the pace they would then walk,
besides, even supposing them to have found their way, the strongest men
would certainly have deserted the weak. Something however was
absolutely necessary to be done to relieve them as much as possible
from their burdens, and the officers consulted on the subject. Mr. Hood
and Dr. Richardson proposed to remain behind with a single attendant at
the first place where sufficient wood and _tripe de roche_ should be
found for ten days’ consumption, and that I should proceed as
expeditiously as possible with the men to the house and thence send
them immediate relief. They strongly urged that this arrangement would
contribute to the safety of the rest of the party by relieving them
from the burden of a tent and several other articles, and that they
might afford aid to Crédit if he should unexpectedly come up. I was
distressed beyond description at the thought of leaving them in such a
dangerous situation and for a long time combated their proposal, but
they strenuously urged that this step afforded the only chance of
safety for the party and I reluctantly acceded to it. The ammunition,
of which we had a small barrel, was also to be left with them, and it
was hoped that this deposit would be a strong inducement for the
Indians to venture across the barren grounds to their aid. We
communicated this resolution to the men who were cheered at the
slightest prospect of alleviation to their present miseries and
promised with great appearance of earnestness to return to those
officers upon the first supply of food.
The party then moved on; Vaillant’s blanket and other necessaries were
left in the track at the request of the Canadians, without any hope
however of his being able to reach them. After marching till dusk
without seeing a favourable place for encamping, night compelled us to
take shelter under the lee of a hill amongst some willows, with which,
after many attempts, we at length made a fire. It was not sufficient
however to warm the whole party, much less to thaw our shoes, and the
weather not permitting the gathering of _tripe de roche_ we had nothing
to cook. The painful retrospection of the melancholy events of the day
banished sleep, and we shuddered as we contemplated the dreadful
effects of this bitterly cold night on our two companions, if still
living. Some faint hopes were entertained of Crédit’s surviving the
storm as he was provided with a good blanket and had leather to eat.
The weather was mild next morning. We left the encampment at nine and
at a little before noon came to a pretty extensive thicket of small
willows near which there appeared a supply of _tripe de roche_ on the
face of the rocks. At this place Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood determined
to remain with John Hepburn who volunteered to stop with them. The tent
was securely pitched, a few willows collected, and the ammunition and
all other articles were deposited, except each man’s clothing, one
tent, a sufficiency of ammunition for the journey, and the officers’
journals. I had only one blanket which was carried for me and two pair
of shoes. The offer was now made for any of the men who felt themselves
too weak to proceed to remain with the officers but none of them
accepted it. Michel alone felt some inclination to do so. After we had
united in thanksgiving and prayers to Almighty God I separated from my
companions, deeply afflicted that a train of melancholy circumstances
should have demanded of me the severe trial of parting in such a
condition from friends who had become endeared to me by their constant
kindness and cooperation, and a participation of numerous sufferings.
This trial I could not have been induced to undergo but for the reasons
they had so strongly urged the day before, to which my own judgment
assented and for the sanguine hope I felt of either finding a supply of
provision at Fort Enterprise or meeting the Indians in the immediate
vicinity of that place, according to my arrangements with Mr. Wentzel
and Akaitcho. Previously to our starting Peltier and Benoit repeated
their promises to return to them with provision if any should be found
at the house or to guide the Indians to them if any were met.
Greatly as Mr. Hood was exhausted, and indeed incapable as he must have
proved of encountering the fatigue of our very next day’s journey, so
that I felt his resolution to be prudent, I was sensible that his
determination to remain was chiefly prompted by the disinterested and
generous wish to remove impediments to the progress of the rest. Dr.
Richardson and Hepburn, who were both in a state of strength to keep
pace with the men besides, this motive which they shared with him, were
influenced in their resolution to remain, the former by the desire
which had distinguished his character throughout the Expedition of
devoting himself to the succour of the weak, and the latter by the
zealous attachment he had ever shown towards his officers.
We set out without waiting to take any of the _tripe de roche_ and,
walking at a tolerable pace, in an hour arrived at a fine group of
pines about a mile and a quarter from the tent. We sincerely regretted
not having seen these before we separated from our companions as they
would have been better supplied with fuel here and there appeared to be
more _tripe de roche_ than where we had left them.
Descending afterwards into a more level country we found the snow very
deep and the labour of wading through it so fatigued the whole party
that we were compelled to encamp after a march of four miles and a
half. Belanger and Michel were left far behind and when they arrived at
the encampment appeared quite exhausted. The former, bursting into
tears, declared his inability to proceed and begged me to let him go
back next morning to the tent and shortly afterwards Michel made the
same request. I was in hopes they might recover a little strength by
the night’s rest and therefore deferred giving any permission UNTIL
morning. The sudden failure in the strength of these men cast a gloom
over the rest, which I tried in vain to remove by repeated assurances
that the distance to Fort Enterprise was short and that we should in
all probability reach it in four days. Not being able to find any
_tripe de roche_ we drank an infusion of the Labrador tea plant (_Ledum
palustre_), and ate a few morsels of burnt leather for supper. We were
unable to raise the tent and found its weight too great to carry it on;
we therefore cut it up and took a part of the canvas for a cover. The
night was bitterly cold and though we lay as close to each other as
possible, having no shelter, we could not keep ourselves sufficiently
warm to sleep. A strong gale came on after midnight which increased the
severity of the weather. In the morning Belanger and Michel renewed
their request to be permitted to go back to the tent, assuring me they
were still weaker than on the preceding evening and less capable of
going forward, and they urged that the stopping at a place where there
was a supply of _tripe de roche_ was their only chance of preserving
life; under these circumstances I could not do otherwise than yield to
their desire. I wrote a note to Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood informing
them of the pines we had passed and recommending their removing
thither. Having found that Michel was carrying a considerable quantity
of ammunition I desired him to divide it among my party, leaving him
only ten balls and a little shot to kill any animals he might meet on
his way to the tent. This man was very particular in his inquiries
respecting the direction of the house and the course we meant to
pursue; he also said that if he should be able he would go and search
for Vaillant and Crédit; and he requested my permission to take
Vaillant’s blanket if he should find it, to which I agreed and
mentioned it in my notes to the officers.
Scarcely were these arrangements finished before Perrault and Fontano
were seized with a fit of dizziness and betrayed other symptoms of
extreme debility. Some tea was quickly prepared for them and after
drinking it and eating a few morsels of burnt leather they recovered
and expressed their desire to go forward, but the other men, alarmed at
what they had just witnessed, became doubtful of their own strength
and, giving way to absolute dejection, declared their inability to
move. I now earnestly pressed upon them the necessity of continuing our
journey as the only means of saving their own lives as well as those of
our friends at the tent, and after much entreaty got them to set out at
ten A.M. Belanger and Michel were left at the encampment and proposed
to start shortly afterwards. By the time we had gone about two hundred
yards Perrault became again dizzy and desired us to halt which we did
until he, recovering, offered to march on. Ten minutes more had hardly
elapsed before he again desired us to stop and, bursting into tears,
declared he was totally exhausted and unable to accompany us farther.
As the encampment was not more than a quarter of a mile distant we
recommended that he should return to it and rejoin Belanger and Michel
whom we knew to be still there from perceiving the smoke of a fresh
fire, and because they had not made any preparation for starting when
we quitted them. He readily acquiesced in the proposition and, having
taken a friendly leave of each of us, and enjoined us to make all the
haste we could in sending relief, he turned back, keeping his gun and
ammunition. We watched him until he was nearly at the fire and then
proceeded. During these detentions Augustus becoming impatient of the
delay had walked on and we lost sight of him. The labour we experienced
in wading through the deep snow induced us to cross a moderate-sized
lake which lay in our track, but we found this operation far more
harassing. As the surface of the ice was perfectly smooth we slipped at
almost every step and were frequently blown down by the wind with such
force as to shake our whole frames.
Poor Fontano was completely exhausted by the labour of this traverse
and we made a halt until his strength was recruited, by which time the
party was benumbed with cold. Proceeding again he got on tolerably well
for a little time but, being again seized with faintness and dizziness,
he fell often and at length exclaimed that he could go no farther. We
immediately stopped and endeavoured to encourage him to persevere until
we should find some willows to encamp; he insisted however that he
could not march any longer through this deep snow, and said that, if he
should even reach our encampment this evening, he must be left there,
provided _tripe de roche_ could not be procured to recruit his
strength. The poor man was overwhelmed with grief and seemed desirous
to remain at that spot. We were about two miles from the place where
the other men had been left and, as the track to it was beaten, we
proposed to him to return thither as we thought it probable he would
find the men still there; at any rate he would be able to get fuel to
keep him warm during the night, and on the next day he could follow
their track to the officers’ tent and, should the path be covered by
the snow, the pines we had passed yesterday would guide him as they
were yet in view.
I cannot describe my anguish on the occasion of separating from another
companion under circumstances so distressing. There was however no
alternative. The extreme debility of the rest of the party put the
carrying him quite out of the question, as he himself admitted, and it
was evident that the frequent delays he must occasion if he accompanied
us and did not gain strength would endanger the lives of the whole. By
returning he had the prospect of getting to the tent where _tripe de
roche_ could be obtained, which agreed with him better than with any
other of the party, and which he was always very assiduous in
gathering. After some hesitation he determined on going back and set
out, having bid each of us farewell in the tenderest manner. We watched
him with inexpressible anxiety for some time, and were rejoiced to
find, though he got on slowly, that he kept on his legs better than
before. Antonio Fontano was an Italian and had served for many years in
De Meuron’s regiment. He had spoken to me that very morning and after
his first attack of dizziness about his father, and had begged that,
should he survive, I would take him with me to England and put him in
the way of reaching home.
The party was now reduced to five persons, Adam, Peltier, Benoit,
Samandré and myself. Continuing the journey we came after an hour’s
walk to some willows and encamped under the shelter of a rock, having
walked in the whole four miles and a half. We made an attempt to gather
some _tripe de roche_ but could not, owing to the severity of the
weather. Our supper therefore consisted of tea and a few morsels of
leather.
Augustus did not make his appearance but we felt no alarm at his
absence, supposing he would go to the tent if he missed our track.
Having fire we procured a little sleep. Next morning the breeze was
light and the weather mild which enabled us to collect some _tripe de
roche_, and to enjoy the only meal we had had for four days. We derived
great benefit from it and walked with considerably more ease than
yesterday. Without the strength it supplied we should certainly have
been unable to oppose the strong breeze we met in the afternoon. After
walking about five miles we came upon the borders of Marten Lake and
were rejoiced to find it frozen so that we could continue our course
straight for Fort Enterprise. We encamped at the first rapid in Winter
River amidst willows and alders, but these were so frozen and the snow
fell so thick that the men had great difficulty in making a fire. This
proving insufficient to warm us or even thaw our shoes, and having no
food to prepare, we crept under our blankets. The arrival in a
well-known part raised the spirits of the men to a high pitch, and we
kept up a cheerful conversation until sleep overpowered us. The night
was very stormy and the morning scarcely less so but, being desirous to
reach the house this day, we commenced our journey very early. We were
gratified by the sight of a large herd of reindeer on the side of the
hill near the track, but our only hunter Adam was too feeble to pursue
them. Our shoes and garments were stiffened by the frost and we walked
in great pain until we arrived at some stunted pines, at which we
halted, made a good fire, and procured the refreshment of tea. The
weather becoming fine in the afternoon we continued our journey, passed
the Dog-Rib Rock, and encamped among a clump of pines of considerable
growth about a mile farther on. Here we enjoyed the comfort of a large
fire for the first time since our departure from the sea-coast, but
this gratification was purchased at the expense of many severe falls in
crossing a stony valley to get to these trees. There was no _tripe de
roche_, and we drank tea and ate some of our shoes for supper. Next
morning after taking the usual repast of tea we proceeded to the house.
Musing on what we were likely to find there our minds were agitated
between hope and fear and, contrary to the custom we had kept up of
supporting our spirits by conversation, we went silently forward.
DESOLATE STATE OF FORT ENTERPRISE.
At length we reached Fort Enterprise and to our infinite disappointment
and grief found it a perfectly desolate habitation. There was no
deposit of provision, no trace of the Indians, no letter from Mr.
Wentzel to point out where the Indians might be found. It would be
impossible to describe our sensations after entering this miserable
abode and discovering how we had been neglected; the whole party shed
tears, not so much for our own fate as for that of our friends in the
rear, whose lives depended entirely on our sending immediate relief
from this place.
I found a note however from Mr. Back, stating that he had reached the
house two days before and was going in search of the Indians at a part
where St. Germain deemed it probable they might be found. If he was
unsuccessful he purposed walking to Fort Providence and sending succour
from thence, but he doubted whether either he or his party could
perform the journey to that place in their present debilitated state.
It was evident that any supply that could be sent from Fort Providence
would be long in reaching us, neither could it be sufficient to enable
us to afford any assistance to our companions behind, and that the only
relief for them must be procured from the Indians. I resolved therefore
on going also in search of them, but my companions were absolutely
incapable of proceeding and I thought by halting two or three days they
might gather a little strength whilst the delay would afford us the
chance of learning whether Mr. Back had seen the Indians.
DISTRESS SUFFERED AT THAT PLACE.
We now looked round for the means of subsistence and were gratified to
find several deer-skins which had been thrown away during our former
residence. The bones were gathered from the heap of ashes; these with
the skins and the addition of _tripe de roche_, we considered would
support us tolerably well for a time. As to the house, the parchment
being torn from the windows, the apartment we selected for our abode
was exposed to all the rigour of the season. We endeavoured to exclude
the wind as much as possible by placing loose boards against the
apertures. The temperature was now between 15 and 20° below zero. We
procured fuel by pulling up the flooring of the other rooms, and water
for cooking by melting the snow. Whilst we were seated round the fire,
singeing the deer-skin for supper, we were rejoiced by the unexpected
entrance of Augustus. He had followed quite a different course from
ours and the circumstance of his having found his way through a part of
the country he had never been in before must be considered a remarkable
proof of sagacity. The unusual earliness of this winter became manifest
to us from the state of things at this spot. Last year at the same
season and still later there had been very little snow on the ground
and we were surrounded by vast herds of reindeer; now there were but
few recent tracks of these animals and the snow was upwards of two feet
deep. Winter River was then open, now it was frozen two feet thick.
When I arose the following morning my body and limbs were so swollen
that I was unable to walk more than a few yards. Adam was in a still
worse condition, being absolutely incapable of rising without
assistance. My other companions happily experienced this inconvenience
in a less degree and went to collect bones and some _tripe de roche_
which supplied us with two meals. The bones were quite acrid and the
soup extracted from them excoriated the mouth if taken alone, but it
was somewhat milder when boiled with _tripe de roche_, and we even
thought the mixture palatable with the addition of salt, of which a
cask had been fortunately left here in the spring. Augustus today set
two fishing-lines below the rapid. On his way thither he saw two deer
but had not strength to follow them.
On the 13th the wind blew violently from south-east and the snow
drifted so much that the party were confined to the house. In the
afternoon of the following day Belanger arrived with a note from Mr.
Back stating that he had seen no trace of the Indians, and desiring
further instructions as to the course he should pursue. Belanger’s
situation however required our first care as he came in almost
speechless and covered with ice, having fallen into a rapid and, for
the third time since we left the coast, narrowly escaped drowning. He
did not recover sufficiently to answer our questions until we had
rubbed him for some time, changed his dress, and given him some warm
soup. My companions nursed him with the greatest kindness and the
desire of restoring him to health seemed to absorb all regard for their
own situation. I witnessed with peculiar pleasure this conduct, so
different from that which they had recently pursued when every tender
feeling was suspended by the desire of self-preservation. They now no
longer betrayed impatience or despondency but were composed and
cheerful and had entirely given up the practice of swearing, to which
the Canadian voyagers are so lamentably addicted. Our conversation
naturally turned upon the prospect of getting relief and upon the means
which were best adapted for obtaining it. The absence of all traces of
Indians on Winter River convinced me that they were at this time on the
way to Fort Providence and that, by proceeding towards that post, we
should overtake them as they move slowly when they have their families
with them. This route also offered us the prospect of killing deer in
the vicinity of Reindeer Lake, in which neighbourhood our men in their
journey to and fro last winter had always found them abundant. Upon
these grounds I determined on taking the route to Fort Providence as
soon as possible, and wrote to Mr. Back, desiring him to join me at
Reindeer Lake and detailing the occurrences since we parted, that our
friends might receive relief in case of any accident happening to me.
Belanger did not recover sufficient strength to leave us before the
18th. His answers as to the exact part of Round-Rock Lake in which he
had left Mr. Back were very unsatisfactory, and we could only collect
that it was at a considerable distance, and that he was still going on
with the intention of halting at the place where Akaitcho was encamped
last summer, about thirty miles off. This distance appeared so great
that I told Belanger it was very unsafe for him to attempt it alone and
that he would be several days in accomplishing it. He stated however
that, as the track was beaten, he should experience little fatigue, and
seemed so confident that I suffered him to depart with a supply of
singed hide. Next day I received information which explained why he was
so unwilling to acquaint us with the situation of Mr. Back’s party. He
dreaded that I should resolve upon joining it when our numbers would be
so great as to consume at once everything St. Germain might kill, if by
accident he should be successful in hunting. He even endeavoured to
entice away our other hunter, Adam, and proposed to him to carry off
the only kettle we had and without which we could not have subsisted
two days. Adam’s inability to move however precluded him from agreeing
to the proposal but he could assign no reason for not acquainting me
with it previous to Belanger’s departure. I was at first inclined to
consider the whole matter as a fiction of Adam’s, but he persisted in
his story without wavering, and Belanger when we met again confessed
that every part of it was true. It is painful to have to record a fact
so derogatory to human nature but I have deemed it proper to mention it
to show the difficulties we had to contend with, and the effect which
distress had in warping the feelings and understanding of the most
diligent and obedient of our party, for such Belanger had been always
esteemed up to this time.