CHAPTER 10.[25]

[25] It will be seen hereafter that I had the misfortune to lose my

portfolio containing my journals from Fort Enterprise to the 14th of

September. But the loss has been amply redeemed by my brother

officers’ journals from which the narrative up to that period has been

chiefly compiled.

DEPARTURE FROM FORT ENTERPRISE. NAVIGATION OF THE COPPER-MINE RIVER.

VISIT TO THE COPPER MOUNTAIN. INTERVIEW WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. DEPARTURE

OF THE INDIAN HUNTERS. ARRANGEMENTS MADE WITH THEM FOR OUR RETURN.

DEPARTURE FROM FORT ENTERPRISE.

June 14, 1821.

The trains for the canoes having been finished during the night the

party attached to them commenced their journey at ten this morning.

Each canoe was dragged by four men assisted by two dogs. They took the

route of Winter Lake with the intention of following, although more

circuitous, the watercourse as far as practicable, it being safer for

the canoes than travelling overland. After their departure the

remaining stores, the instruments, and our small stock of dried meat,

amounting only to eighty pounds, were distributed equally among

Hepburn, three Canadians, and the two Esquimaux; with this party and

two Indian hunters we quitted Fort Enterprise, most sincerely rejoicing

that the long-wished-for day had arrived when we were to proceed

towards the final object of the Expedition.

We left in one of the rooms a box containing a journal of the

occurrences up to this date, the charts and some drawings, which was to

be conveyed to Fort Chipewyan by Mr. Wentzel on his return from the sea

and thence to be sent to England. The room was blocked up and, by the

advice of Mr. Wentzel, a drawing representing a man holding a dagger in

a threatening attitude was affixed to the door to deter any Indians

from breaking it open. We directed our course towards the Dog-Rib Rock

but, as our companions were loaded with the weight of near one hundred

and eighty pounds each, we of necessity proceeded at a slow pace. The

day was extremely warm and the mosquitoes, whose attacks had hitherto

been feeble, issued forth in swarms from the marshes and were very

tormenting. Having walked five miles we encamped near a small cluster

of pines about two miles from the Dog-Rib Rock. The canoe party had not

been seen since they set out. Our hunters went forward to Marten Lake,

intending to wait for us at a place where two deer were deposited. At

nine P.M. the temperature of the air was 63°.

We resumed our march at an early hour and crossed several lakes which

lay in our course as the ice enabled the men to drag their burdens on

trains formed of sticks and deers’ horns with more ease than they could

carry them on their backs. We were kept constantly wet by this

operation as the ice had broken near the shores of the lakes but this

was little regarded as the day was unusually warm, the temperature at

two P.M. being at 82 1/2°. At Marten Lake we joined the canoe party and

encamped with them. We had the mortification of learning from our

hunters that the meat they had put _en cache_ here had been destroyed

by the wolverines, and we had in consequence to furnish the supper from

our scanty stock of dried meat. The wind changed from South-East to

North-East in the evening and the weather became very cold, the

thermometer being at 43° at nine P.M. The few dwarf birches we could

collect afforded fire insufficient to keep us warm and we retired under

the covering of our blankets as soon as the supper was despatched. The

North-East breeze rendered the night so extremely cold that we procured

but little sleep, having neither fire nor shelter for, though we

carried our tents, we had been forced to leave the tent-poles which we

could not now replace; we therefore gladly recommenced the journey at

five in the morning and travelled through the remaining part of the

lake on the ice. Its surface being quite smooth the canoes were dragged

along expeditiously by the dogs, and the rest of the party had to walk

very quick to keep pace with them, which occasioned many severe falls.

By the time we had reached the end of the lake the wind had increased

to a perfect gale and the atmosphere was so cold that we could not

proceed farther with the canoes without the risk of breaking the bark

and seriously injuring them; we therefore crossed Winter River in them

and put up in a well-sheltered place on a ridge of sandhills but, as

the stock of provision was scanty, we determined on proceeding as quick

as possible and leaving the canoe party under the charge of Mr.

Wentzel. We parted from them in the afternoon, and first directed our

course towards a range of hills where we expected to find Antonio

Fontano, who had separated from us in the morning. In crossing towards

these hills I fell through the ice into the lake with my bundle on my

shoulders but was soon extricated without any injury, and Mr. Back, who

left us to go in search of the straggler, met with a similar accident

in the evening. We put up on a ridge of sandhills where we found some

pines, and made a large fire to apprise Mr. Back and Fontano of our

position. St. Germain having killed a deer in the afternoon we received

an acceptable supply of meat. The night was stormy and very cold.

At five the next morning our men were sent in different directions

after our absent companions, but as the weather was foggy we despaired

of finding them unless they should chance to hear the muskets our

people were desired to fire. They returned however at ten, bringing

intelligence of them. I went immediately with Hepburn to join Mr. Back

and directed Mr. Hood to proceed with the Canadians and halt with them

at the spot where the hunters had killed a deer. Though Mr. Back was

much fatigued he set off with me immediately, and in the evening we

rejoined our friends on the borders of the Big Lake. The Indians

informed us that Fontano only remained a few hours with them and then

continued his journey. We had to oppose a violent gale and frequent

snowstorms through the day, which unseasonable weather caused the

temperature to descend below the freezing-point this evening. The

situation of our encampment being bleak, and our fuel stunted green

willows, we passed a very cold and uncomfortable night.

June 18.

Though the breeze was moderate this morning the air was piercingly

keen. When on the point of starting we perceived Mr. Wentzel’s party

coming, and awaited his arrival to learn whether the canoes had

received any injury during the severe weather of yesterday. Finding

they had not we proceeded to get upon the ice on the lake, which could

not be effected without walking up to the waist in water for some

distance from its borders. We had not the command of our feet in this

situation and the men fell often; poor Junius broke through the ice

with his heavy burden on his back but fortunately was not hurt.

This lake is extensive and large arms branch from its main course in

different directions. At these parts we crossed the projecting points

of land and on each occasion had to wade as before, which so wearied

everyone that we rejoiced when we reached its north side and encamped,

though our resting-place was a bare rock. We had the happiness of

finding Fontano at this place. The poor fellow had passed the three

preceding days without tasting food and was exhausted by anxiety and

hunger. His sufferings were considered to have been a sufficient

punishment for his imprudent conduct in separating from us, and I only

admonished him to be more cautious in future.

Having received information that the hunters had killed a deer we sent

three men to fetch the meat, which was distributed between our party

and the canoe-men who had been encamped near to us. The thermometer at

three P.M. was 46°, at nine 34°.

We commenced the following day by crossing a lake about four miles in

length and then passed over a succession of rugged hills for nearly the

same distance. The men, being anxious to reach some pine-trees which

they had seen on their former journey, walked at a quick pace though

they were suffering from swelled legs and rheumatic pains; we could not

however attain the desired point and therefore encamped on the

declivity of a hill which sheltered us from the wind, and used the

reindeer moss for fuel, which afforded us more warmth than we expected.

Several patches of snow were yet remaining on the surrounding hills.

The thermometer varied today between 55 and 45°.

On the 20th of June we began our march by crossing a small lake, not

without much risk as the surface of the ice was covered with water to

the depth of two feet and there were many holes into which we slipped

in spite of our efforts to avoid them. A few of the men, being fearful

of attempting the traverse with their heavy loads, walked round the

eastern end of the lake. The parties met on the sandy ridge which

separates the streams that fall into Winter Lake from those that flow

to the northward; and here we killed three deer. Near the base of this

ridge we crossed a small but rapid stream in which there is a

remarkable cascade of about fifty feet. Some Indians joined us here and

gave information respecting the situation of Dr. Richardson’s tent,

which our hunters considered was sufficient for our guidance, and

therefore proceeded as quickly as they could. We marched a few miles

farther in the evening and encamped among some pines; but the comfort

of a good fire did not compensate for the torment we suffered from the

host of mosquitoes at this spot. The temperature was 52°.

We set off next morning at a very early hour. The men took the course

of Point Lake that they might use their sledges, but the officers

pursued the nearest route by land to Dr. Richardson’s tent, which we

reached at eleven A.M. It was on the western side of an arm of the lake

and near the part through which the Copper-Mine River runs. Our men

arrived soon after us and in the evening Mr. Wentzel and his party,

with the canoes in excellent condition. They were much jaded by their

fatiguing journey and several were lame from swellings of the lower

extremities. The ice on the lake was still six or seven feet thick and

there was no appearance of its decay except near the edges and, as it

was evident that, by remaining here until it should be removed, we

might lose every prospect of success in our undertaking, I determined

on dragging our stores along its surface until we should come to a part

of the river where we could embark, and directions were given this

evening for each man to prepare a train for the conveyance of his

portion of the stores. I may remark here, as a proof of the strong

effect of radiation from the earth in melting the ice, that the largest

holes in the ice were always formed at the base of the high and steep

cliffs which abound on the borders of this lake.

We found Akaitcho and the hunters encamped here but their families and

the rest of the tribe had gone off two days before to the Bethseeto, a

large lake to the northward where they intended passing the summer.

Long-legs and Keskarrah had departed to desire the Hook to collect as

much meat as he could against our arrival at his lodge. We were

extremely distressed to learn from Dr. Richardson that Akaitcho and his

party had expended all the ammunition they had received at Fort

Enterprise without having contributed any supply of provision. The

Doctor had however, through the assistance of two hunters he kept with

him, prepared two hundred pounds of dried meat, which was now our sole

dependence for the journey. On the following morning I represented to

Akaitcho that we had been greatly disappointed by his conduct which was

so opposite to the promise of exertion he had made on quitting Fort

Enterprise. He offered many excuses but, finding they were not

satisfactory, admitted that the greater part of the ammunition had been

given to those who accompanied the women to the Bethseeto, and promised

to behave better in future. I then told him that I intended in future

to give them ammunition only in proportion to the meat which was

brought in, and that we should commence upon that plan by supplying him

with fifteen balls, and each of the hunters with ten.

The number of our hunters was now reduced to five as two of the most

active declined going any farther, their father, who thought himself

dying, having solicited them to remain and close his eyes. These five

were furnished with ammunition and sent forward to hunt on the south

border of the lake, with directions to place any meat they might

procure near the edge of the lake and set up marks to guide us to the

spots. Akaitcho, his brother, the guide, and three other men remained

to accompany us. We were much surprised to perceive an extraordinary

difference in climate in so short an advance to the northward as fifty

miles. The snow here was lying in large patches on the hills. The

dwarf-birch and willows were only just beginning to open their buds

which had burst forth at Fort Enterprise many days before our

departure. Vegetation seemed to be three weeks or a month later here

than at that place. We had heavy showers of rain through the night of

the 22nd which melted the snow and visibly wasted the ice.

On the 23rd the men were busily employed in making their trains and in

pounding the meat for pemmican. The situation of the encampment was

ascertained latitude 65° 12′ 40″ North, longitude 113° 8′ 25″ West, and

the variation 43° 4′ 20″ East. The arrangements being completed we

purposed commencing our journey next morning, but the weather was too

stormy to venture upon the lake with the canoes. In the afternoon a

heavy fall of snow took place, succeeded by sleet and rain. The

north-east gale continued but the thermometer rose to 39°.

June 25.

The wind having abated in the night we prepared for starting at an

early hour. The three canoes were mounted on sledges and nine men were

appointed to conduct them, having the assistance of two dogs to each

canoe. The stores and provisions were distributed equally among the

rest of our men, except a few small articles which the Indians carried.

The provision consisted of only two bags of pemmican, two of pounded

meat, five of suet, and two small bundles of dried provision, together

with fresh meat sufficient for our supper at night. It was gratifying

to witness the readiness with which the men prepared for and commenced

a journey which threatened to be so very laborious, as each of them had

to drag upwards of one hundred and eighty pounds on his sledge.

Our course led down the main channel of the lake, which varied in

breadth from half a mile to three miles; but we proceeded at a slow

pace as the snow which fell last night and still lay on the ice very

much impeded the sledges. Many extensive arms branched off on the north

side of this channel and it was bounded on the south by a chain of

lofty islands. The hills on both sides rose to six or seven hundred

feet and high steep cliffs were numerous. Clusters of pines were

occasionally seen in the valleys. We put up at eight P.M. in a spot

which afforded us but a few twigs for fuel. The party was much fatigued

and several of the men were affected by an inflammation on the inside

of the thigh attended with hardness and swelling. The distance made

today was six miles.

We started at ten next morning. The day was extremely hot and the men

were soon jaded; their lameness increased very much and some not

previously affected began to complain. The dogs too showed symptoms of

great weakness, and one of them stretched himself obstinately on the

ice and was obliged to be released from the harness. We were therefore

compelled to encamp at an early hour, having come only four miles. The

sufferings of the people in this early stage of our journey were truly

discouraging to them and very distressing to us, whose situation was

comparatively easy. I therefore determined on leaving the third canoe

which had been principally carried to provide against any accident to

the others. We should thus gain three men to lighten the loads of those

who were most lame, and an additional dog for each of the other canoes.

It was accordingly properly secured on a stage erected for the purpose

near the encampment. Dried meat was issued for supper but in the course

of the evening the Indians killed two deer for which we immediately

sent.

The channel of the lake through which we had passed today was bounded

on both sides by islands of considerable height, presenting bold and

rugged scenery. We were informed by our guide that a large body of the

lake lies to the northward of a long island which we passed.

Another deer was killed next morning but, as the men breakfasted off it

before they started, the additional weight was not materially felt. The

burdens of the men being considerably lightened by the arrangements of

last evening, the party walked at the rate of one mile and

three-quarters an hour until the afternoon, when our pace was slackened

as the ice was more rough and our lame companions felt their sores very

galling. At noon we passed a deep bay on the south side which is said

to receive a river. Throughout the day’s march the hills on each side

of the lake bore a strong resemblance in height and form to those about

Fort Enterprise. We encamped on the north main shore among some spruce

trees, having walked eight miles and a half. Three or four fish were

caught with lines through holes which the water had worn in the ice. We

perceived a light westerly current at these places.

It rained heavily during the night and this was succeeded by a dense

fog on the morning of the 28th. Being short of provisions we commenced

our journey though the points of land were not discernible beyond a

short distance. The surface of the ice, being honeycombed by the recent

rains, presented innumerable sharp points which tore our shoes and

lacerated the feet at every step. The poor dogs too marked their path

with their blood.

NAVIGATION OF THE COPPER-MINE RIVER.

In the evening the atmosphere became clear and at five P.M. we reached

the rapid by which Point Lake communicates with Red-Rock Lake. This

rapid is only one hundred yards wide and we were much disappointed at

finding the Copper-Mine River such an inconsiderable stream. The canoes

descended the rapid but the cargoes were carried across the peninsula

and placed again on the sledges as the next lake was still frozen. We

passed an extensive arm branching to the eastward, and encamped just

below it on the western bank among spruce pines, having walked six

miles of direct distance. The rolled stones on the beach are

principally red clay slate, hence its Indian appellation which we have

retained.

We continued our journey at the usual hour next morning. At noon the

variation was observed to be 47° East. Our attention was afterwards

directed to some pine branches scattered on the ice which proved to be

marks placed by our hunters to guide us to the spot where they had

deposited the carcasses of two small deer. This supply was very

seasonable and the men cheerfully dragged the additional weight.

Akaitcho, judging from the appearance of the meat, thought it had been

placed here three days ago and that the hunters were considerably in

advance. We put up at six P.M. near the end of the lake, having come

twelve miles and three-quarters, and found the channel open by which it

is connected with the Rock-nest Lake. A river was pointed out bearing

south from our encampment, which is said to rise near Great Marten

Lake. Red-Rock Lake is in general narrow, its shelving banks are well

clothed with wood and even the hills, which attain an elevation of four

hundred or five hundred feet, are ornamented halfway up with stunted

pines.

On June 30 the men, having gummed the canoes, embarked with their

burdens to descend the river; but we accompanied the Indians about five

miles across a neck of land, when we also embarked. The river was about

two hundred yards wide and, its course being uninterrupted, we

cherished a sanguine hope of now getting on more speedily, until we

perceived that the waters of Rock-nest Lake were still bound by ice and

that recourse must again be had to the sledges. The ice was much

decayed and the party were exposed to great risk of breaking through in

making the traverse. In one part we had to cross an open channel in the

canoes, and in another were compelled to quit the Lake and make a

portage along the land. When the party had got upon the ice again our

guide evinced much uncertainty as to the route. He first directed us

towards the west end of the lake but, when we had nearly gained that

point, he discovered a remarkable rock to the north-east, named by the

Indians the Rock-nest, and then recollected that the river ran at its

base. Our course was immediately changed to that direction, but the

traverse we had then to make was more dangerous than the former one.

The ice cracked under us at every step and the party were obliged to

separate widely to prevent accidents. We landed at the first point we

could approach but, having found an open channel close to the shore,

were obliged to ferry the goods across on pieces of ice. The fresh meat

being expended we had to make another inroad on our pounded meat. The

evening was very warm and the mosquitoes numerous. A large fire was

made to apprise the hunters of our advance. The scenery of Rock-nest

Lake is picturesque, its shores are rather low except at the Rock-nest,

and two or three eminences on the eastern side. The only wood is the

pine which is twenty or thirty feet high and about one foot in

diameter. Our distance today was six miles.

July 1.

Our guide directed us to proceed towards a deep bay on the north side

of the lake where he supposed we should find the river. In consequence

of the bad state of the ice we employed all the different modes of

travelling we had previously followed in attaining this place and, in

crossing a point of land, had the misfortune to lose one of the dogs,

which set off in pursuit of some reindeer. Arriving at the bay we only

found a stream that fell into it from the north-east and looked in vain

for the Copper-Mine River. This circumstance confused the guide and he

confessed that he was now doubtful of the proper route; we therefore

halted and despatched him with two men to look for the river from the

top of the high hills near the Rock-nest. During this delay a slight

injury was repaired which one of the canoes had received. We were here

amused by the sight of a wolf chasing two reindeer on the ice. The

pursuer, being alarmed at the sight of our men, gave up the chase when

near to the hindmost, much to our regret for we were calculating upon

the chance of sharing in his capture.

At four P.M. our men returned with the agreeable information that they

had seen the river flowing at the base of the Rock-nest. The canoes and

stores were immediately placed on the ice and dragged thither; we then

embarked but soon had to cut through a barrier of drift ice that

blocked up the way. We afterwards descended two strong rapids and

encamped near the discharge of a small stream which flows from an

adjoining lake. The Copper-Mine River at this point is about two

hundred yards wide and ten feet deep, and flows very rapidly over a

rocky bottom. The scenery of its banks is picturesque, the hills shelve

to the waterside and are well covered with wood, and the surface of the

rocks is richly ornamented with lichens. The Indians say that the same

kind of country prevails as far as Mackenzie’s River in this parallel,

but that the land to the eastward is perfectly barren. Akaitcho and one

of the Indians killed two deer which were immediately sent for. Two of

the hunters arrived in the night and we learned that their companions,

instead of being in advance as we supposed, were staying at the place

where we first found the river open. They had only seen our fires last

evening and had sent to examine who we were. The circumstance of having

passed them was very vexatious as they had three deer _en cache_ at

their encampment. However an Indian was sent to desire those who

remained to join us and bring the meat.

We embarked at nine A.M. on July 2nd and descended a succession of

strong rapids for three miles. We were carried along with extraordinary

rapidity, shooting over large stones upon which a single stroke would

have been destructive to the canoes; and we were also in danger of

breaking them, from the want of the long poles which lie along their

bottoms and equalise their cargoes, as they plunged very much, and on

one occasion the first canoe was almost filled with the waves. But

there was no receding after we had once launched into the stream, and

our safety depended on the skill and dexterity of the bowmen and

steersmen. The banks of the river here are rocky and the scenery

beautiful, consisting of gentle elevations and dales wooded to the edge

of the stream and flanked on both sides at the distance of three or

four miles by a range of round-backed barren hills, upwards of six

hundred feet high. At the foot of the rapids the high lands recede to a

greater distance and the river flows with a more gentle current in a

wider channel through a level and open country consisting of alluvial

sand. In one place the passage was blocked up by drift ice still deeply

covered with snow. A channel for the canoes was made for some distance

with the hatchets and poles but, on reaching the more compact part, we

were under the necessity of transporting the canoes and cargoes across

it, an operation of much hazard as the snow concealed the numerous

holes which the water had made in the ice. This expansion of the river

being mistaken by the guide for a lake which he spoke of as the last on

our route to the sea, we supposed that we should have no more ice to

cross, and therefore encamped after passing through it, to fit the

canoes properly for the voyage and to provide poles, which are not only

necessary to strengthen them when placed in the bottom, but essentially

requisite for the safe management of them in dangerous rapids. The

guide began afterwards to doubt whether the lake he meant was not

farther on, and he was sent with two men to examine into the fact, who

returned in the evening with the information of its being below us but

that there was an open channel through it. This day was very sultry and

several plants appeared in flower.

The men were employed in repairing their canoes to a late hour and

commenced very early next morning as we were desirous of availing

ourselves of every part of this favourable weather. The hunters arrived

in the course of the night. It appeared that the dog which escaped from

us two days ago came into the vicinity of their encampment, howling

piteously; seeing him without his harness they came to the hasty

conclusion that our whole party had perished in a rapid and, throwing

away part of their baggage and leaving the meat behind them, they set

off with the utmost haste to join Long-legs. Our messenger met them in

their flight but too far advanced to admit of their returning for the

meat. Akaitcho scolded them heartily for their thoughtlessness in

leaving the meat, which we so much wanted. They expressed their regret

and, being ashamed of their panic, proposed to remedy the evil as much

as possible by going forward without stopping until they came to a

favourable spot for hunting, which they expected to do about thirty or

forty miles below our present encampment. Akaitcho accompanied them but

previous to setting off he renewed his charge that we should be on our

guard against the bears, which was occasioned by the hunters having

fired at one is morning as they were descending a rapid in their canoe.

As their small canoes would only carry five persons two of the hunters

had to walk in turns along the banks.

In our rambles round the encampment we witnessed with pleasure the

progress which vegetation had made within the few last warm days; most

of the trees had put forth their leaves and several flowers ornamented

the moss-covered ground; many of the smaller summer birds were observed

in the woods, and a variety of ducks, gulls, and plovers, sported on

the banks of the river. It is about three hundred yards wide at this

part, is deep and flows over a bed of alluvial sand. We caught some

trout of considerable size with our lines, and a few white-fish in the

nets, which maintained us with a little assistance from the pemmican.

The repair of our canoes was completed this evening. Before embarking I

issued an order that no rapid should in future be descended until the

bowman had examined it and decided upon its being safe to run. Wherever

the least danger was to be apprehended or the crew had to disembark for

the purpose of lightening the canoe, the ammunition, guns, and

instruments were always to be put out and carried along the bank, that

we might be provided with the means of subsisting ourselves in case of

any accident befalling the canoes.

The situation of our encampment was ascertained to be 65° 43′ 28″

North, longitude 114° 26′ 45″ West, and the variation 42° 17′ 22″ East.

At four in the morning of July 4th we embarked and descended a

succession of very agitated rapids, but took the precaution of landing

the articles mentioned yesterday wherever there appeared any hazard;

notwithstanding all our precautions the leading canoe struck with great

force against a stone and the bark was split, but this injury was

easily repaired and we regretted only the loss of time. At eleven we

came to an expansion of the river where the current ran with less force

and an accumulation of drift ice had in consequence barred the channel;

over this the canoes and cargoes were carried. The ice in many places

adhered to the banks and projected in wide ledges several feet thick

over the stream, which had hollowed them out beneath. On one occasion

as the people were embarking from one of these ledges it suddenly gave

way and three men were precipitated into the water but were rescued

without further damage than a sound ducking, and the canoe fortunately

(and narrowly) escaped being crushed. Perceiving one of the Indians

sitting on the east bank of the river we landed and, having learned

from him that Akaitcho and the hunters had gone in pursuit of a herd of

musk-oxen, we encamped, having come twenty-four miles and a half.

In the afternoon they brought us the agreeable intelligence of having

killed eight cows, of which four were full-grown. All the party were

immediately despatched to bring in this seasonable supply. A young cow,

irritated by the firing of the hunters, ran down to the river and

passed close to me when walking at a short distance from the tents. I

fired and wounded it, when the animal instantly turned and ran at me,

but I avoided its fury by jumping aside and getting upon an elevated

piece of ground. In the meantime some people came from the tents and it

took to flight.

The musk-oxen, like the buffalo, herd together in bands and generally

frequent the barren grounds during the summer months, keeping near the

rivers, but retire to the woods in winter. They seem to be less

watchful than most other wild animals and, when grazing, are not

difficult to approach provided the hunters go against the wind; when

two or three men get so near a herd as to fire at them from different

points these animals, instead of separating or running away, huddle

closer together and several are generally killed; but if the wound is

not mortal they become enraged and dart in the most furious manner at

the hunters, who must be very dextrous to evade them. They can defend

themselves by their powerful horns against the wolves and bears which,

as the Indians say, they not unfrequently kill.

The musk-oxen feed on the same substances with the reindeer, and the

prints of the feet of these two animals are so much alike that it

requires the eye of an experienced hunter to distinguish them. The

largest killed by us did not exceed in weight three hundred pounds. The

flesh has a musky disagreeable flavour, particularly when the animal is

lean which, unfortunately for us, was the case with all that we now

killed.

During this day’s march the river varied in breadth from one hundred to

two hundred feet, and except in two open spaces a very strong current

marked a deep descent the whole way. It flows over a bed of gravel, of

which also its immediate banks are composed. Near to our encampment it

is bounded by cliffs of fine sand from one hundred to two hundred feet

high. Sandy plains extend on a level with the summit of these cliffs,

and at the distance of six or seven miles are terminated by ranges of

hills eight hundred or one thousand feet high. The grass on these

plains affords excellent pasturage for the musk-oxen and they generally

abound here. The hunters added two more to our stock in the course of

the night. As we had now more meat than the party could consume fresh

we delayed our voyage next day to dry it. The hunters were supplied

with more ammunition and sent forward; but Akaitcho, his brother, and

another Indian remained with us.

It may here be proper to mention that the officers had treated Akaitcho

more distantly since our departure from Point Lake, to mark their

opinion of his misconduct. The diligence in hunting however which he

had evinced at this place induced us to receive him more familiarly

when he came to the tent this evening. During our conversation he

endeavoured to excite suspicions in our minds against the Hook by

saying, “I am aware that you consider me the worst man of my nation;

but I know the Hook to be a great rogue and I think he will disappoint

you.”

On the morning of the 6th we embarked and descended a series of rapids,

having twice unloaded the canoes where the water was shallow. After

passing the mouth of the Fairy Lake River[26] the rapids ceased. The

main stream was then about three hundred yards wide and generally deep,

though in one part the channel was interrupted by several sandy banks

and low alluvial islands covered with willows. It flows between banks

of sand thinly wooded and as we advanced the barren hills approached

the water’s edge.

[26] This is an Indian name. The Northern Indian fairies are six

inches high, lead a life similar to the Indians, and are excellent

hunters. Those who have had the good fortune to fall in with their

tiny encampments have been kindly treated and regaled on venison. We

did not learn with certainty whether the existence of these delightful

creatures is known from Indian tradition or whether the Indians own

their knowledge of them to their intercourse with the traders, but

think the former probable.

At ten we rejoined our hunters who had killed a deer and halted to

breakfast. We sent them forward; one of them who was walking along the

shore afterwards fired upon two brown bears and wounded one of them,

which instantly turned and pursued him. His companions in the canoes

put ashore to his assistance but did not succeed in killing the bears,

which fled upon the reinforcement coming up. During the delay thus

occasioned we overtook them and they continued with us the rest of the

day.

We encamped at the foot of a lofty range of mountains which appear to

be from twelve to fifteen hundred feet high; they are in general

round-backed but the outline is not even, being interrupted by craggy

conical eminences. This is the first ridge of hills we have seen in

this country that deserves the appellation of a mountain range; it is

probably a continuation of the Stony Mountains crossed by Hearne. Many

plants appeared in full flower near the tents and Dr. Richardson

gathered some high up on the hills. The distance we made today was

fifty miles.

There was a hoar frost in the night and the temperature at four next

morning was 40°: embarking at that hour we glided quickly down the

stream and by seven arrived at the Hook’s encampment which was placed

on the summit of a lofty sand cliff whose base was washed by the river.

This chief had with him only three hunters and a few old men and their

families, the rest of the band having remained at their snares in Bear

Lake. His brother Long-legs and our guide Keskarrah, who had joined him

three days before, had communicated to him our want of provision, and

we were happy to find that, departing from the general practice of

Indian chiefs, he entered at once upon the business without making a

long speech. As an introductory mark of our regard I decorated him with

a medal similar to those which had been given to the other leaders. The

Hook began by stating that he was aware of our being destitute of

provision, and of the great need we had of an ample stock to enable us

to execute our undertaking, and his regret that the unusual scarcity of

animals this season, together with the circumstance of his having only

just received a supply of ammunition from Fort Providence, had

prevented him from collecting the quantity of meat he had wished to do

for our use. “The amount indeed,” he said, “is very small, but I will

cheerfully give you what I have: we are too much indebted to the white

people to allow them to want food on our lands whilst we have any to

give them. Our families can live on fish until we can procure more

meat, but the season is too short to allow of your delaying to gain

subsistence in that manner.” He immediately desired aloud that the

women should bring all the meat they had to us; and we soon collected

sufficient to make three bags and a half of pemmican, besides some

dried meat and tongues. We were truly delighted by this prompt and

cheerful behaviour and would gladly have rewarded the kindness of

himself and his companions by some substantial present, but we were

limited by the scantiness of our store to a small donation of fifteen

charges of ammunition to each of the chiefs. In return for the

provision they accepted notes on the North-West Company to be paid at

Fort Providence, and to these was subjoined an order for a few articles

of clothing as an additional present. I then endeavoured to prevail

upon the Hook to remain in this vicinity with his hunters until the

autumn, and to make deposits of provision in different parts of the

course to the sea as a resource for our party, in the event of our

being compelled to return by this route. He required time however to

consider this matter, and promised to give me an answer next day. I was

rejoiced to find him then prepared to meet my wish and the following

plan was agreed upon: As the animals abound at all times on the borders

of Bear Lake he promised to remain on the east side of it until the

month of November, at that spot which is nearest to the Copper-Mine

River, from whence there is a communication by a chain of lakes and

portages. There the principal deposit of provision was to be made, but

during the summer the hunters were to be employed in putting up

supplies of dried meat at convenient distances, not only along the

communication from this river, but also upon its banks as far down as

the Copper Mountain. They were also to place particular marks to guide

our course to their lodges. We contracted to pay them liberally,

whether we returned by this way or not; if we did they were to

accompany us to Fort Providence to receive the reward, and at any rate

I promised to send the necessary documents by Mr. Wentzel from the

sea-coast to ensure them an ample remuneration. With this arrangement

they were perfectly satisfied and we could not be less so, knowing they

had every motive for fulfilling their promises, as the place they had

chosen to remain at is their usual hunting ground. The uncommon anxiety

these chiefs expressed for our safety appeared to us likely to prompt

them to every care and attention, and I record their expressions with

gratitude. After representing the numerous hardships we should have to

encounter in the strongest manner, though in language similar to what

we had often heard from our friend Akaitcho, they earnestly entreated

we would be constantly on our guard against the treachery of the

Esquimaux, and no less forcibly desired we would not proceed far along

the coast, as they dreaded the consequences of our being exposed to a

tempestuous sea in canoes, and having to endure the cold of the autumn

on a shore destitute of fuel. The Hook having been an invalid for

several years rejoiced at the opportunity of consulting Dr. Richardson,

who immediately gave him advice and supplied him with medicine.

The pounded meat and fat were converted into pemmican preparatory to

our voyage.

The result of our observations at the Hook’s encampment was latitude

66° 45′ 11″ North, longitude 115° 42′ 23″ West, variation of the

compass 46° 7′ 30″ East.

We embarked at eleven to proceed on our journey. Akaitcho and his

brother the guide being in the first canoe and old Keskarrah in the

other. We wished to dispense with the further attendance of two guides

and made a proposition that either of them might remain here, but

neither would relinquish the honour of escorting the Expedition to the

sea. One of our hunters however was less eager for this distinction and

preferred remaining with Green-stockings, Keskarrah’s fascinating

daughter. The other four, with the Little Singer accompanied us, two of

them conducting their small canoes in turns and the rest walking along

the beach.

The river flows over a bed of sand and winds in an uninterrupted

channel of from three-quarters to a mile broad between two ranges of

hills, which are pretty even in their outline and round-backed, but

having rather steep acclivities. The immediate borders of the stream

consist either of high banks of sand or steep gravel cliffs and

sometimes, where the hills recede to a little distance, the intervening

space is occupied by high sandy ridges.

At three P.M., after passing along the foot of a high range of hills,

we arrived at the portage leading to the Bear Lake, to which we have

previously alluded. Its position is very remarkable, being at the most

westerly part of the Copper-Mine River and at the point where it

resumes a northern course and forces a passage through the lofty ridge

of mountains to which it has run parallel for the last thirty miles. As

the Indians travel from hence with their families in three days to the

point where they have proposed staying for us, the distance I think

cannot exceed forty miles and, admitting the course to be due west,

which is the direction the guide pointed, it would place the eastern

part of Bear Lake in 118 1/4° West longitude.

Beyond this spot the river is diminished in breadth and a succession of

rapids are formed but, as the water was deep, we passed through them

without discharging any part of the cargoes. It still runs between high

ranges of mountains, though its actual boundaries are banks of mud

mixed with clay which are clothed with stunted pines. We picked up a

deer which the hunters had shot and killed another from the canoe, and

also received an addition to our stock of provision of seven young

geese which the hunters had beaten down with their sticks. About six

P.M. we perceived a mark on the shore which on examination was found to

have been recently put up by some Indians: and on proceeding farther we

discerned stronger proofs of their vicinity; we therefore encamped and

made a large fire as a signal which they answered in a similar way. Mr.

Wentzel was immediately sent in expectation of getting provision from

them. On his return we learned that the party consisted of three old

Copper Indians with their families, who had supported themselves with

the bow and arrow since last autumn, not having visited Fort Providence

for more than a year, and so successful had they been that they were

enabled to supply us with upwards of seventy pounds of dried meat, and

six moose skins fit for making shoes, which were the more valuable as

we were apprehensive of being barefooted before the journey could be

completed. The evening was sultry and the mosquitoes appeared in great

numbers. The distance made today was twenty-five miles.

On the following morning we went down to these Indians and delivered to

them notes on the North-West Company for the meat and skins they had

furnished, and we had then the mortification of learning that, not

having people to carry a considerable quantity of pounded meat which

they intended for us, they had left it upon the Bear Lake Portage. They

promised however to get it conveyed to the banks of this river before

we could return and we rewarded them with a present of knives and

files.

After reembarking we continued to descend the river which was now

contracted between lofty banks to about one hundred and twenty yards

wide; the current was very strong. At eleven we came to a rapid which

had been the theme of discourse with the Indians for many days, and

which they had described to us as impassable in canoes. The river here

descends for three-quarters of a mile in a deep but narrow and crooked

channel which it has cut through the foot of a hill of five hundred or

six hundred feet high. It is confined between perpendicular cliffs

resembling stone walls, varying in height from eighty to one hundred

and fifty feet, on which lies a mass of fine sand. The body of the

river pent within this narrow chasm dashed furiously round the

projecting rocky columns and discharged itself at the northern

extremity in a sheet of foam. The canoes, after being lightened of part

of their cargoes, ran through this defile without sustaining any

injury. Accurate sketches of this interesting scene were taken by

Messrs. Back and Hood. Soon after passing this rapid we perceived the

hunters running up the east side of the river to prevent us from

disturbing a herd of musk-oxen which they had observed grazing on the

opposite bank; we put them across and they succeeded in killing six,

upon which we encamped for the purpose of drying the meat. The country

below the Rocky Defile Rapid consists of sandy plains, broken by small

conical eminences also of sand, and bounded to the westward by a

continuation of the mountain chain which we had crossed at the Bear

Lake Portage, and to the eastward and northward at the distance of

twelve miles by the Copper Mountains, which Mr. Hearne visited. The

plains are crowned by several clumps of moderately large spruces about

thirty feet high.

This evening the Indians made a large fire as a signal to the Hook’s

party that we had passed the _terrific_ rapid in safety.

The position of our encampment was ascertained to be latitude 67° 1′

10″ North, longitude 116° 27′ 28″ West, variation of the compass 44°

11′ 43″ East, dip of the needle 87° 31′ 18″.

Some thundershowers retarded the drying of the meat and our embarkation

was delayed till the next day. The hunters were sent forward to hunt at

the Copper Mountains under the superintendence of Adam the interpreter

who received strict injunctions not to permit them to make any large

fires lest they should alarm straggling parties of the Esquimaux.

The mosquitoes were now very numerous and annoying but we consoled

ourselves with the hope that their season would be short.

VISIT TO THE COPPER MOUNTAIN.

On the 11th we started at three A.M. and, as the guide had represented

the river below our encampment to be full of shoals, some of the men

were directed to walk along the shore, but they were assailed so

violently by the mosquitoes as to be compelled to embark very soon; and

we afterwards passed over the shallow parts by the aid of the poles

without experiencing much interruption. The current ran very rapidly,

having been augmented by the waters of the Mouse River and several

small streams. We rejoined our hunters at the foot of the Copper

Mountains and found they had killed three musk-oxen. This circumstance

determined us on encamping to dry the meat as there was wood at the

spot. We availed ourselves of this delay to visit the Copper Mountains

in search of specimens of the ore, agreeably to my Instructions; and a

party of twenty-one persons, consisting of the officers, some of the

voyagers, and all the Indians, set off on that excursion. We travelled

for nine hours over a considerable space of ground but found only a few

small pieces of native copper. The range we ascended was on the west

side of the river extending West-North-West and East-South-East. The

mountains varied in height from twelve to fifteen hundred feet. The

uniformity of the mountains is interrupted by narrow valleys traversed

by small streams. The best specimens of metal we procured were among

the stones in these valleys, and it was in such situations that our

guides desired us to search most carefully. It would appear that, when

the Indians see any sparry substance projecting above the surface, they

dig there, but they have no other rule to direct them, and have never

found the metal in its original repository. Our guides reported that

they had found copper in large pieces in every part of this range for

two days’ walk to the north-west, and that the Esquimaux come hither to

search for it. The annual visits which the Copper Indians were

accustomed to make to these mountains, when most of their weapons and

utensils were made of copper, have been discontinued since they have

been enabled to obtain a supply of ice chisels and other instruments of

iron by the establishment of trading posts near their hunting grounds.

That none of those who accompanied us had visited them for many years

was evident from their ignorance of the spots most abundant in metal.

The impracticability of navigating the river upwards from the sea, and

the want of wood for forming an establishment, would prove insuperable

objections to rendering the collection of copper at this part worthy of

mercantile speculation.

We had the opportunity of surveying the country from several elevated

positions. Two or three small lakes only were visible, still partly

frozen, and much snow remained on the mountains. The trees were reduced

to a scanty fringe on the borders of the river and every side was beset

by naked mountains.

The day was unusually warm and therefore favourable for drying meat.

Our whole stock of provision, calculated for preservation, was

sufficient for fourteen days without any diminution of the ordinary

allowance of three pounds to each man per day. The situation of our

tents was 67° 10′ 30″ North, longitude 116° 25′ 45″ West.

June 12.

The Indians, knowing the course of the river below this point to be

only a succession of rapids, declined taking their canoes any farther

but, as I conceived one of them would be required, should we be

compelled to walk along the coast, two of our men were appointed to

conduct it.

As we were now entering the confines of the Esquimaux country our

guides recommended us to be cautious in lighting fires lest we should

discover ourselves, adding that the same reason would lead them to

travel as much as possible in the valleys, and to avoid crossing the

tops of the hills. We embarked at six A.M., taking with us only old

Keskarrah. The other Indians walked along the banks of the river.

Throughout this day’s voyage the current was very strong, running four

or five miles an hour, but the navigation was tolerable and we had to

lighten the canoes only once, in a contracted part of the river where

the waves were very high. The river is in many places confined between

perpendicular walls of rock to one hundred and fifty yards in width,

and there the rapids were most agitated. Large masses of ice twelve or

fourteen feet thick were still adhering to many parts of the bank,

indicating the tardy departure of winter from this inhospitable land,

but the earth around them was rich with vegetation. In the evening two

musk-oxen, being seen on the beach, were pursued and killed by our men.

Whilst we were waiting to embark the meat the Indians rejoined us and

reported they had been attacked by a bear which sprung upon them whilst

they were conversing together. His attack was so sudden that they had

not time to level their guns properly, and they all missed except

Akaitcho who, less confused than the rest, took deliberate aim and shot

the animal dead. They do not eat the flesh of the bear but, knowing

that we had no such prejudice, they brought us some of the choice

pieces which upon trial we found to be very excellent meat.

The Indians having informed us that we were now within twelve miles of

the rapid where the Esquimaux have invariably been found, we pitched

our tents on the beach under the shelter of a high hill whose

precipitous side is washed by the river, intending to send forward some

persons to determine the situation of their present abode. Some

vestiges of an old Esquimaux encampment were observed near the tents

and the stumps of the trees bore marks of the stone hatchets they use.

A strict watch was appointed consisting of an officer, four Canadians,

and an Indian, and directions were given for the rest of the party to

sleep with their arms by their side. That as little delay as possible

might be experienced in opening a communication with the Esquimaux we

immediately commenced arrangements for sending forward persons to

discover whether there were any in our vicinity. Akaitcho and the

guides proposed that two of the hunters should be despatched on this

service who had extremely quick sight and were accustomed to act as

scouts, an office which requires equal caution and circumspection. A

strong objection however lay against this plan in the probability of

their being discovered by a straggling hunter, which would be

destructive to every hope of accommodation. It was therefore determined

to send Augustus and Junius, who were very desirous to undertake the

service. These adventurous men proposed to go armed only with pistols

concealed in their dress, and furnished with beads, looking-glasses,

and other articles, that they might conciliate their countrymen by

presents. We could not divest our minds of the apprehension that it

might be a service of much hazard if the Esquimaux were as hostile to

strangers as the Copper Indians have invariably represented them to be,

and we felt great reluctance in exposing our two little interpreters,

who had rendered themselves dear to the whole party, to the most

distant chance of receiving injury, but this course of proceeding

appeared in their opinion and our own to offer the only chance of

gaining an interview. Though not insensible to the danger they

cheerfully prepared for their mission, and clothed themselves in

Esquimaux dresses which had been made for the purpose at Fort

Enterprise. Augustus was desired to make his presents and to tell the

Esquimaux that the white men had come to make peace between them and

all their enemies, and also to discover a passage by which every

article of which they stood in need might be brought in large ships. He

was not to mention that we were accompanied by the Indians but to

endeavour to prevail on some of the Esquimaux to return with him. He

was directed to come back immediately if there were no lodges at the

rapid.

The Indians were not suffered to move out of our sight, but in the

evening we permitted two of them to cross the river in pursuit of a

musk-ox, which they killed on the beach and returned immediately. The

officers, prompted by an anxious solicitude for Augustus and Junius,

crawled up frequently to the summit of the mountain to watch their

return. The view however was not extensive, being bounded at the

distance of eight miles by a range of hills similar to the Copper

Mountains but not so lofty. The night came without bringing any

intelligence of our messengers, and our fears for their safety

increased with the length of their absence.

As everyone had been interested in the welfare of these men through

their vivacity and good nature and the assistance they had cheerfully

rendered in bearing their portion of whatever labour might be going on,

their detention formed the subject of all our conversation and numerous

conjectures were hazarded as to the cause.

Dr. Richardson, having the first watch, had gone to the summit of the

hill and remained seated, contemplating the river that washed the

precipice under his feet long after dusk had hid distant objects from

his view. His thoughts were perhaps far distant from the surrounding

scenery, when he was roused by an indistinct noise behind him and, on

looking round, perceived that nine white wolves had ranged themselves

in form of a crescent and were advancing, apparently with the intention

of driving him into the river. On his rising up they halted, and when

he advanced they made way for his passage down to the tents. He had his

gun in his hand but forbore to fire lest there should be Esquimaux in

the neighbourhood. During Mr. Wentzel’s middle watch the wolves

appeared repeatedly on the summit of the hill, and at one time they

succeeded in driving a deer over the precipice. The animal was stunned

by the fall but, recovering itself, swam across the stream and escaped

up the river. I may remark here that at midnight it was tolerably dark

in the valley of the river at this time but that an object on the

eminence above could be distinctly seen against the sky.

The following observations were taken at this encampment, latitude 67°

23′ 14″ North, longitude 116° 6′ 51″ West, variation 49° 46′ 24″ East.

Thermometer 75° at three P.M. Sultry weather.

Augustus and Junius not having returned next morning we were more

alarmed respecting them, and determined on proceeding to find out the

cause of their detention, but it was eleven A.M. before we could

prevail upon the Indians to remain behind, which we wished them to do

lest the Esquimaux might be suspicious of our intentions if they were

seen in our suite. We promised to send for them when we had paved the

way for their reception, but Akaitcho, ever ready to augur misfortune,

expressed his belief that our messengers had been killed and that the

Esquimaux, warned of our approach, were lying in wait for us, and

“although,” said he, “your party may be sufficiently strong to repulse

any hostile attack, my band is too weak to offer effectual resistance

when separated from you, and therefore we are determined to go on with

you or to return to our lands.” After much argument however he yielded

and agreed to stay behind, provided Mr. Wentzel would remain with him.

This gentleman was accordingly left with a Canadian attendant and they

promised not to pass a range of hills then in view to the northward

unless we sent notice to them.

The river during the whole of this day’s voyage flowed between

alternate cliffs of looses and intermixed with gravel and red sandstone

rocks, and was everywhere shallow and rapid. As its course was very

crooked much time was spent in examining the different rapids previous

to running them, but the canoes descended, except at a single place,

without any difficulty. Most of the officers and half the men marched

along the land to lighten the canoes and reconnoitre the country, each

person being armed with a gun and a dagger. Arriving at a range of

mountains which had terminated our view yesterday, we ascended it with

much eagerness, expecting to see the rapid that Mr. Hearne visited near

its base, and to gain a view of the sea; but our disappointment was

proportionably great when we beheld beyond a plain, similar to that we

had just left, terminated by another range of trap hills, between whose

tops the summits of some distant blue mountains appeared. Our reliance

on the information of the guides, which had been for some time shaken,

was now quite at an end, and we feared that the sea was still far

distant. The flat country here is covered with grass and is devoid of

the large stones so frequent in the barren grounds, but the ranges of

trap hills which seem to intersect it at regular distances are quite

barren. A few decayed stunted pines were standing on the borders of the

river. In the evening we had the gratification of meeting Junius who

was hastening back to inform us that they had found four Esquimaux

tents at the Fall which we recognised to be the one described by Mr.

Hearne. The inmates were asleep at the time of their arrival but rose

soon afterwards, and then Augustus presented himself and had some

conversation across the river. He told them the white people had come,

who would make them very useful presents. The information of our

arrival seemed to alarm them very much but, as the noise of the rapid

prevented them from hearing distinctly, one of them approached him in

his canoe and received the rest of the message. He would not however

land on his side of the river, but returned to the tents without

receiving the present. His language differed in some respects from

Augustus’s but they understood each other tolerably well. Augustus,

trusting for a supply of provision to the Esquimaux, had neglected to

carry any with him, and this was the main cause of Junius’s return. We

now encamped, having come fourteen miles. After a few hours’ rest

Junius set off again to rejoin his companion, being accompanied by

Hepburn who was directed to remain about two miles above the fall to

arrest the canoes on their passage, lest we should too suddenly

surprise the Esquimaux. About ten P.M. we were mortified by the

appearance of the Indians with Mr. Wentzel, who had in vain endeavoured

to restrain them from following us. The only reason assigned by

Akaitcho for this conduct was that he wished for a reassurance of my

promise to establish peace between his nation and the Esquimaux. I took

this occasion of again enforcing the necessity of their remaining

behind until we had obtained the confidence and goodwill of their

enemies. After supper Dr. Richardson ascended a lofty hill about three

miles from the encampment and obtained the first view of the sea; it

appeared to be covered with ice. A large promontory, which I named Cape

Hearne, bore North-East and its lofty mountains proved to be the blue

land we had seen in the forenoon, and which had led us to believe the

sea was still far distant. He saw the sun set a few minutes before

midnight from the same elevated situation. It did not rise during the

half hour he remained there, but before he reached the encampment its

rays gilded the tops of the hills.

The night was warm and we were much annoyed by the mosquitoes.

June 15.

We this morning experienced as much difficulty as before in prevailing

upon the Indians to remain behind, and they did not consent until I had

declared that they should lose the reward which had been promised if

they proceeded any farther before we had prepared the Esquimaux to

receive them. We left a Canadian with them and proceeded, not without

apprehension that they would follow us and derange our whole plan by

their obstinacy. Two of the officers and a party of men walked on the

shore to lighten the canoes. The river in this part flows between high

and stony cliffs, reddish slate clay rocks, and shelving banks of white

clay, and is full of shoals and dangerous rapids. One of these was

termed Escape Rapid, both the canoes having narrowly escaped foundering

in its high waves. We had entered the rapid before we were aware and,

the steepness of the cliffs preventing us from landing, we were

indebted to the swiftness of our descent for preservation. Two waves

made a complete breach over the canoes; a third would in all

probability have filled and overset them, which must have proved fatal

to everyone in them. The powder fortunately escaped the water, which

was soon discharged when we reached the bottom of the rapid. At noon we

perceived Hepburn lying on the left bank of the river and landed

immediately to receive his information. As he represented the water to

be shoal the whole way to the rapid (below which the Esquimaux were)

the shore party were directed to continue their march to a sandy bay at

the head of the fall and there await the arrival of the canoes. The

land in the neighbourhood of the rapid is of the most singular form:

large irregular sandhills bounding both banks, apparently so

unconnected that they resemble icebergs, the country around them

consisting of high round green hills. The river becomes wide in this

part and full of shoals, but we had no difficulty in finding a channel

through them. On regaining the shore party we regretted to find that

some of the men had incautiously appeared on the tops of the hills just

at the time Augustus was conversing with one of the Esquimaux, who had

again approached in his canoe and was almost persuaded to land. The

unfortunate appearance of so many people at this instant revived his

fears, and he crossed over to the eastern bank of the river, and fled

with the whole of his party. We learned from Augustus that this party,

consisting of four men and as many women, had manifested a friendly

disposition. Two of the former were very tall. The man who first came

to speak to him inquired the number of canoes that we had with us,

expressed himself to be not displeased at our arrival, and desired him

to caution us not to attempt running the rapid, but to make the portage

on the west side of the river. Notwithstanding this appearance of

confidence and satisfaction it seems they did not consider their

situation free from danger, as they retreated the first night to an

island somewhat farther down the river, and in the morning they

returned and threw down their lodges, as if to give notice to any of

their nation that might arrive that there was an enemy in the

neighbourhood. From seeing all their property strewed about, and ten of

their dogs left, we entertained the hope that these poor people would

return after their first alarm had subsided, and therefore I determined

on remaining until the next day, in the expectation of seeing them as I

considered the opening of an early communication a matter of the

greatest importance in our state of absolute ignorance respecting the

sea-coast. The canoes and cargoes were carried across the portage and

we encamped on the north side of it. We sent Augustus and Junius across

the river to look for the runaways but their search was fruitless. They

put a few pieces of iron and trinkets in their canoes, which were lying

on the beach. We also sent some men to put up the stages of fish and

secure them as much as possible from the attacks of the dogs. Under the

covering of their tents were observed some stone kettles and hatchets,

a few fish spears made of copper, two small bits of iron, a quantity of

skins, and some dried salmon, which was covered with maggots and half

putrid. The entrails of the fish were spread out to dry. A great many

skins of small birds were hung up to a stage, and even two mice were

preserved in the same way. Thus it would appear that the necessities of

these poor people induce them to preserve every article that can be

possibly used as food. Several human skulls, which bore the marks of

violence, and many bones were strewed about the ground near the

encampment and, as the spot exactly answers the description given by

Mr. Hearne of the place where the Chipewyans who accompanied him

perpetrated the dreadful massacre on the Esquimaux, we had no doubt of

this being the place, notwithstanding the difference in its position as

to latitude and longitude given by him and ascertained by our

observation. We have therefore preserved the appellation of Bloody Fall

which he bestowed upon it. Its situation by our observations is in

latitude 67° 42′ 35″ North, longitude 115° 49′ 33″ West, variation 50°

20′ 14″ East. This rapid is a sort of shelving cascade, about three

hundred yards in length, having a descent of from ten to fifteen feet.

It is bounded on each side by high walls of red sandstone, upon which

rests a series of lofty green hills. On its north side close to the

east bank is the low rocky island which the Esquimaux had deserted. The

surrounding scenery was accurately delineated in a sketch taken by Mr.

Hood. We caught forty excellent salmon and white-fish in a single net

below the rapid. We had not seen any trees during this day’s journey;

our fuel consisted of small willows and pieces of dried wood that were

picked up near the encampment. The ground is well clothed with grass

and nourishes most of the shrubs and berry-bearing plants that we have

seen north of Fort Enterprise; and the country altogether has a richer

appearance than the barren lands of the Copper Indians. We had a

distinct view of the sea from the summit of a hill behind the tents; it

appeared choked with ice and full of islands.

INTERVIEW WITH THE ESQUIMAUX.

On the morning of the 16th three men were sent up the river to search

for dried wood to make floats for the nets. Adam the interpreter was

also despatched with a Canadian to inform Akaitcho of the flight of the

Esquimaux. We were preparing to go down to the sea in one of the

canoes, leaving Mr. Back to await the return of the men who were absent

but, just as the crew were putting the canoe in the water, Adam

returned in the utmost consternation and informed us that a party of

Esquimaux were pursuing the men whom we had sent to collect floats. The

orders for embarking were instantly countermanded and we went with a

part of our men to their rescue. We soon met our people returning at a

slow pace and learned that they had come unawares upon the Esquimaux

party, which consisted of six men with their women and children, who

were travelling towards the rapid with a considerable number of dogs

carrying their baggage. The women hid themselves on the first alarm,

but the men advanced and, stopping at some distance from our men, began

to dance in a circle, tossing up their hands in the air and

accompanying their motions with much shouting, to signify I conceive

their desire of peace. Our men saluted them by pulling off their hats

and making bows, but neither party was willing to approach the other,

and at length the Esquimaux retired to the hill from whence they had

descended when first seen. We proceeded in the hope of gaining an

interview with them but lest our appearance in a body should alarm them

we advanced in a long line, at the head of which was Augustus. We were

led to their baggage, which they had deserted, by the howling of the

dogs, and on the summit of a hill we found lying behind a stone an old

man who was too infirm to effect his escape with the rest. He was much

terrified when Augustus advanced and probably expected immediate death

but, that the fatal blow might not be unrevenged, he seized his spear

and made a thrust with it at his supposed enemy. Augustus however

easily repressed the feeble effort and soon calmed his fears by

presenting him with some pieces of iron and assuring him of his

friendly intentions. Dr. Richardson and I then joined them and, after

receiving our presents, the old man was quite composed and became

communicative. His dialect differed from that used by Augustus but they

understood each other tolerably well.

It appeared that his party consisted of eight men and their families

who were returning from a hunting excursion with dried meat. After

being told who we were he said that he had heard of white people from

different parties of his nation which resided on the sea-coast to the

eastward and, to our inquiries respecting the provision and fuel we

might expect to get on our voyage, he informed us that the reindeer

frequent the coast during the summer, the fish are plentiful at the

mouths of the rivers, the seals are abundant, but there are no

sea-horses nor whales, although he remembered one of the latter, which

had been killed by some distant tribe, having been driven on shore on

his part of the coast by a gale of wind. That musk-oxen were to be

found a little distance up the rivers, and that we should get driftwood

along the shore. He had no knowledge of the coast to the eastward

beyond the next river, which he called Nappaarktoktowock, or Tree

River. The old man, contrary to the Indian practice, asked each of our

names and, in reply to a similar question on our part, said his name

was Terregannœuck, or the White Fox, and that his tribe denominated

themselves Naggeooktormoeoot, or Deer-Horn Esquimaux. They usually

frequent the Bloody Fall during this and the following moons for the

purpose of salting salmon, and then retire to a river which flows into

the sea a short way to the westward (since denominated Richardson’s

River) and pass the winter in snow-houses.

After this conversation Terregannœuck proposed going down to his

baggage, and we then perceived he was too infirm to walk without the

assistance of sticks. Augustus therefore offered him his arm which he

readily accepted and, on reaching his store, he distributed pieces of

dried meat to each person which, though highly tainted, were

immediately eaten, this being a universal token among the Indians of

peaceable intention.

We then informed him of our desire to procure as much meat as we

possibly could and he told us that he had a large quantity concealed in

the neighbourhood which he would cause to be carried to us when his

people returned.

I now communicated to him that we were accompanied by some Copper

Indians who were very desirous to make peace with his nation, and that

they had requested me to prevail upon the Esquimaux to receive them in

a friendly manner, to which he replied he should rejoice to see an end

put to the hostility that existed between the nations and therefore

would most gladly welcome our companions. Having despatched Adam to

inform Akaitcho of this circumstance we left Terregannœuck, in the hope

that his party would rejoin him but, as we had doubts whether the young

men would venture upon coming to our tents on the old man’s bare

representation, we sent Augustus and Junius back in the evening to

remain with him until they came, that they might fully detail our

intentions.

The countenance of Terregannœuck was oval with a sufficiently prominent

nose and had nothing very different from a European face, except in the

smallness of his eyes and perhaps in the narrowness of his forehead.

His complexion was very fresh and red and he had a longer beard than I

had seen on any of the aboriginal inhabitants of America. It was

between two and three inches long and perfectly white. His face was not

tattooed. His dress consisted of a shirt, or jacket with a hood, wide

breeches reaching only to the knee, and tight leggings sewed to the

shoes, all of deer skins. The soles of the shoes were made of seal-skin

and stuffed with feathers instead of socks. He was bent with age but

appeared to be about five feet ten inches high. His hands and feet were

small in proportion to his height. Whenever Terregannœuck received a

present he placed each article first on his right shoulder then on his

left, and when he wished to express still higher satisfaction he rubbed

it over his head. He held hatchets and other iron instruments in the

highest esteem. On seeing his countenance in a glass for the first time

he exclaimed, “I shall never kill deer more,” and immediately put the

mirror down. The tribe to which he belongs repair to the sea in spring

and kill seals; as the season advances they hunt deer and musk-oxen at

some distance from the coast. Their weapon is the bow and arrow and

they get sufficiently nigh the deer, either by crawling or by leading

these animals by ranges of turf towards a spot where the archer can

conceal himself. Their bows are formed of three pieces of fir, the

centrepiece alone bent, the other two lying in the same straight line

with the bowstring; the pieces are neatly tied together with sinew.

Their canoes are similar to those we saw in Hudson’s Straits but

smaller. They get fish constantly in the rivers and in the sea as soon

as the ice breaks up. This tribe do not make use of nets but are

tolerably successful with the hook and line. Their cooking utensils are

made of pot-stone, and they form very neat dishes of fir, the sides

being made of thin deal, bent into an oval form, secured at the ends by

sewing, and fitted so nicely to the bottom as to be perfectly

water-tight. They have also large spoons made of the horns of the

musk-oxen.

Akaitcho and the Indians arrived at our tents in the evening and we

learned that they had seen the Esquimaux the day before and endeavoured

without success to open a communication with them. They exhibited no

hostile intention but were afraid to advance. Akaitcho, keeping out of

their sight, followed at a distance, expecting that, ultimately finding

themselves enclosed between our party and his, they would be compelled

to come to a parley with one of us. Akaitcho had seen Terregannœuck

soon after our departure; he was much terrified and thrust his spear at

him as he had done at Augustus, but was soon reconciled after the

demonstrations of kindness the Indians made in cutting off the buttons

from their dress to present to him.

July 17.

We waited all this forenoon in momentary expectation of the return of

Augustus and Junius but as they did not appear at two P.M. I sent Mr.

Hood with a party of men to inquire into the cause of their detention

and to bring the meat which Terregannœuck had promised us. He returned

at midnight with the information that none of the Esquimaux had yet

ventured to come near Terregannœuck except his aged wife, who had

concealed herself amongst the rocks at our first interview, and she

told him the rest of the party had gone to a river a short distance to

the westward where there was another party of Esquimaux fishing.

Augustus and Junius had erected the tent and done everything in their

power to make the old man comfortable in their absence. Terregannœuck,

being unable to walk to the place where the meat was concealed, readily

pointed the spot out to Mr. Hood who went thither but, after

experiencing much difficulty in getting at the column of rock on which

it was deposited, he found it too putrid for our use. The features of

Terregannœuck’s wife were remarkable for roundness and flatness; her

face was much tattooed and her dress differed little from the old

man’s.

In the afternoon a party of nine Esquimaux appeared on the east bank of

the river about a mile below our encampment, carrying their canoes and

baggage on their backs, but they turned and fled as soon as they

perceived our tents. The appearance of so many different bands of

Esquimaux terrified the Indians so much that they determined on leaving

us the next day lest they should be surrounded and their retreat cut

off. I endeavoured, by the offer of any remuneration they would choose,

to prevail upon one or two of the hunters to proceed but in vain; and I

had much difficulty even in obtaining their promise to wait at the

Copper Mountains for Mr. Wentzel and the four men, whom I intended to

discharge at the sea.

The fears which our interpreters, St. Germain and Adam, entertained

respecting the voyage were now greatly increased and both of them came

this evening to request their discharge, urging that their services

could be no longer requisite as the Indians were going from us. St.

Germain even said that he had understood he was only engaged to

accompany us as long as the Indians did, and persisted in this

falsehood until his agreement to go with us throughout the voyage had

been twice read to him. As these were the only two of the party on

whose skill in hunting we could rely I was unable to listen for a

moment to their desire of quitting us and, lest they should leave us by

stealth, their motions were strictly watched. This was not an

unnecessary precaution as I was informed that they had actually laid a

plan for eloping; but the rest of the men, knowing that their own

safety would have been compromised had they succeeded, kept a watchful

eye over them. We knew that the dread of the Esquimaux would prevent

these men from leaving us as soon as the Indians were at a distance,

and we trusted to their becoming reconciled to the journey when once

the novelty of a sea voyage had worn off.

DEPARTURE OF THE INDIAN HUNTERS. ARRANGEMENTS MADE WITH THEM FOR OUR

RETURN.

July 18.

As the Indians persevered in their determination of setting out this

morning I reminded them, through Mr. Wentzel and St. Germain, of the

necessity of our having the deposit of provision made at Fort

Enterprise, and received a renewed assurance of their attending to that

point. They were also desired to put as much meat as they could _en

cache_ on the banks of the Copper-Mine River on their return. We then

furnished them with what ammunition we could spare and they took their

departure promising to wait three days for Mr. Wentzel at the Copper

Mountains. We afterwards learned that their fears did not permit them

to do so, and that Mr. Wentzel did not rejoin them until they were a

day’s march to the southward of the mountains.

We embarked at five A.M. and proceeded towards the sea which is about

nine miles beyond the Bloody Fall. After passing a few rapids the river

became wider and more navigable for canoes, flowing between banks of

alluvial sand. We encamped at ten on the western bank at its junction

with the sea. The river is here about a mile wide but very shallow,

being barred nearly across by sandbanks which run out from the mainland

on each side to a low alluvial island that lies in the centre and forms

two channels, of these the westernmost only is navigable even for

canoes, the other being obstructed by a stony bar. The islands to

seaward are high and numerous and fill the horizon in many points of

the compass; the only open space seen from an eminence near the

encampment being from North by East to North-East by North. Towards the

east the land was like a chain of islands, the ice apparently

surrounding them in a compact body, leaving a channel between its edge

and the main of about three miles. The water in this channel was of a

clear green colour and decidedly salt. Mr. Hearne could have tasted it

only at the mouth of the river, when he pronounced it merely brackish.

A rise and fall of four inches in the water was observed. The shore is

strewed with a considerable quantity of drift timber, principally of

the _Populus balsamifera_, but none of it of great size. We also picked

up some decayed wood far out of the reach of the water. A few stunted

willows were growing near the encampment. Some ducks, gulls, and

partridges were seen this day. As I had to make up despatches for

England to be sent by Mr. Wentzel the nets were set in the interim and

we were rejoiced to find that they produced sufficient fish for the

party. Those caught were the Copper-Mine River salmon, white-fish, and

two species of pleuronectes. We felt a considerable change of

temperature on reaching the sea-coast, produced by the winds changing

from the southward to the North-West. Our Canadian voyagers complained

much of the cold but they were amused with their first view of the sea

and particularly with the sight of the seals that were swimming about

near the entrance of the river, but these sensations gave place to

despondency before the evening had elapsed. They were terrified at the

idea of a voyage through an icy sea in bark canoes. They speculated on

the length of the journey, the roughness of the waves, the uncertainty

of provisions, the exposure to cold where we could expect no fuel, and

the prospect of having to traverse the barren grounds to get to some

establishment. The two interpreters expressed their apprehensions with

the least disguise and again urgently applied to be discharged, but

only one of the Canadians made a similar request. Judging that the

constant occupation of their time as soon as we were enabled to

commence the voyage would prevent them from conjuring up so many causes

of fear, and that familiarity with the scenes on the coast would in a

short time enable them to give scope to their natural cheerfulness, the

officers endeavoured to ridicule their fears and happily succeeded for

the present. The manner in which our faithful Hepburn viewed the

element to which he had been so long accustomed contributed not a

little to make them ashamed of their fears.

On the morning of the 19th Dr. Richardson, accompanied by Augustus,

paid another visit to Terregannœuck to see if he could obtain any

additional information respecting the country to the eastward, but he

was disappointed at finding that his affrighted family had not yet

rejoined him, and the old man could add nothing to his former

communication. The Doctor remarked that Terreganoeuck had a great

dislike to mentioning the name of the Copper-Mine River, and evaded the

question with much dexterity as often as it was put to him, but that he

willingly told the name of a river to the eastward and also of his

tribe. He attempted to persuade Augustus to remain with him and offered

him one of his daughters for a wife. These Esquimaux strike fire with

two stones, catching the sparks in the down of the catkins of a willow.

The despatches being finished were delivered this evening to Mr.

Wentzel, who parted from us at eight P.M. with Parent, Gagnier, Dumas,

and Forcier, Canadians whom I discharged for the purpose of reducing

our expenditure of provision as much as possible. The remainder of the

party including officers amounted to twenty persons. I made Mr. Wentzel

acquainted with the probable course of our future proceedings and

mentioned to him that, if we were far distant from this river when the

season or other circumstances rendered it necessary to put a stop to

our advance, we should in all probability be unable to return to it and

should have to travel across the barren grounds towards some

established post, in which case I told him that we should certainly go

first to Fort Enterprise, expecting that he would cause the Indians to

place a supply of dried provision there, as soon as possible after

their arrival in its vicinity. My instructions to him were that he

should proceed to Point Lake, transport the canoe that was left there

to Fort Enterprise, where he was to embark the instruments and books

and carry them to Slave Lake, and to forward the box containing the

journals, etc., with the present despatches by the next winter packet

to England. But before he quitted Fort Enterprise he was to be assured

of the intention of the Indians to lay up the provision we required

and, if they should be in want of ammunition for that purpose, to

procure it if possible from Fort Providence or the other Forts in Slave

Lake, and send it immediately to them by the hunters who accompanied

him thither. I also requested him to ascertain from Akaitcho and the

other leading Indians where their different parties would be hunting in

the months of September and October, and to leave this information in a

letter at Fort Enterprise for our guidance in finding them, as we

should require their assistance. Mr. Wentzel was furnished with a list

of the stores that had been promised to Akaitcho and his party as a

remuneration for their services, as well as with an official request to

the North-West Company that these goods might be paid to them on their

next visit to Fort Providence, which they expected to make in the

latter part of November. I desired him to mention this circumstance to

the Indians as an encouragement to exertion in our behalf and to

promise them an additional reward for the supply of provision they

should collect at Fort Enterprise.

If Mr. Wentzel met the Hook or any of his party he was instructed to

assure them that he was provided with the necessary documents to get

them payment for any meat they should put _en cache_ for our use, and

to acquaint them that we fully relied on their fulfilling every part of

the agreement they had made with us. Whenever the Indians, whom he was

to join at the Copper Mountains, killed any animals on their way to

Fort Enterprise, he was requested to put _en cache_ whatever meat could

be spared, placing conspicuous marks to guide us to them, and I

particularly begged he would employ them in hunting in our service

immediately after his arrival at the house.

When Mr. Wentzel’s party had been supplied with ammunition our

remaining stock consisted of one thousand balls and rather more than

the requisite proportion of powder. A bag of small shot was missing and

we afterwards discovered that the Canadians had secreted and

distributed it among themselves in order that when provision should

become scarce they might privately procure ducks and geese and avoid

the necessity of sharing them with the officers.

The situation of our encampment was ascertained to be latitude 67° 47′

50″ North, longitude 115° 36′ 49″ West, the variation of the compass

46° 25′ 52″ East, and dip of the needle 88° 5′ 07″.

It will be perceived that the position of the mouth of the river given

by our observations differs widely from that assigned by Mr. Hearne,

but the accuracy of his description, conjoined with Indian information,

assured us that we were at the very part he visited. I therefore named

the most conspicuous cape we then saw Cape Hearne as a just tribute to

the memory of that persevering traveller. I distinguished another cape

by the name of Mackenzie in honour of Sir Alexander Mackenzie, the only

other European[27] who had before reached the Northern Ocean. I called

the river which falls into the sea to the westward of the Copper-Mine

Richardson as a testimony of sincere regard for my friend and companion

Dr. Richardson, and named the islands which were in view from our

encampment Couper’s Isles in honour of a friend of his. The sun set

this night at thirty minutes after eleven apparent time.

[27] Captain Parry’s success was at this time unknown to us.

The travelling distance from Fort Enterprise to the north of the

Copper-Mine River is about three hundred and thirty-four miles. The

canoes and baggage were dragged over snow and ice for one hundred and

seventeen miles of this distance.