Hunting. Its Benefits to the Soldier. Buffalo. Deer. Antelope. Bear.
Big-horn, or Mountain Sheep. Their Habits, and Hints upon the best
Methods of hunting them.
HUNTING.
I know of no better school of practice for perfecting men in
target-firing, and the use of firearms generally, than that in which
the frontier hunter receives his education. One of the first and most
important lessons that he is taught impresses him with the conviction
that, unless his gun is in good order and steadily directed upon the
game, he must go without his supper; and if ambition does not stimulate
his efforts, his appetite will, and ultimately lead to success and
confidence in his own powers.
The man who is afraid to place the butt of his piece firmly against his
shoulder, or who turns away his head at the instant of pulling trigger
(as soldiers often do before they have been drilled at target-practice),
will not be likely to bag much game or to contribute materially toward
the result of a battle. The successful hunter, as a general rule, is a
good shot, will always charge his gun properly, and may be relied upon
in action. I would, therefore, when in garrison or at permanent camps,
encourage officers and soldiers in field-sports. If permitted, men very
readily cultivate a fondness for these innocent and healthy exercises,
and occupy their leisure time in their pursuit; whereas, if confined to
the narrow limits of a frontier camp or garrison, having no amusements
within their reach, they are prone to indulge in practices which are
highly detrimental to their physical and moral condition.
By making short excursions about the country they acquire a knowledge
of it, become inured to fatigue, learn the art of bivouacking,
trailing, etc., etc., all of which will be found serviceable in border
warfare; and, even if they should perchance now and then miss some of
the minor routine duties of the garrison, the benefits they would
derive from hunting would, in my opinion, more than counterbalance its
effects. Under the old regime it was thought that drills,
dress-parades, and guard-mountings comprehended the sum total of the
soldier's education, but the experience of the last ten years has
taught us that these are only the rudiments, and that to combat
successfully with Indians we must receive instruction from them, study
their tactics, and, where they suit our purposes, copy from them.
The union of discipline with the individuality, self-reliance, and
rapidity of locomotion of the savage is what we should aim at. This
will be the tendency of the course indicated, and it is conceived by
the writer that an army composed of well-disciplined hunters will be
the most efficient of all others against the only enemy we have to
encounter within the limits of our vast possessions.
I find some pertinent remarks upon this subject in a very sensible
essay by "a late captain of infantry" (U.S.). He says:
"It is conceived that scattered bands of mounted hunters, with the
speed of a horse and the watchfulness of a wolf or antelope, whose
faculties are sharpened by their necessities; who, when they get short
of provisions, separate and look for something to eat, and find it in
the water, in the ground, or on the surface; whose bill of fare ranges
from grass-seed, nuts, roots, grasshoppers, lizards, and rattlesnakes
up to the antelope, deer, elk, bear, and buffalo, and who have a
continent to roam over, will be neither surprised, caught, conquered,
overawed, or reduced to famine by a rumbling, bugle-blowing,
drum-beating town passing through their country on wheels at the speed
of a loaded wagon.
"If the Indians are in the path and do not wish to be seen, they cross
a ridge, and the town moves on, ignorant whether there are fifty
Indians within a mile or no Indian within fifty miles. If the Indians
wish to see, they return to the crest of the ridge, crawl up to the
edge, pull up a bunch of grass by the roots, and look through or under
it at the procession."
Although I would always encourage men in hunting when permanently
located, yet, unless they are good woodsmen, it is not safe to permit
them to go out alone in marching through the Indian country, as, aside
from the danger of encountering Indians, they would be liable to become
bewildered and perhaps lost, and this might detain the entire party in
searching for them. The better plan upon a march is for three or four
to go out together, accompanied by a good woodsman, who will be able
with certainty to lead them back to camp.
The little group could ascertain if Indians are about, and would be
strong enough to act on the defensive against small parties of them;
and, while they are amusing themselves, they may perform an important
part as scouts and flankers.
An expedition may have been perfectly organized, and every thing
provided that the wisest forethought could suggest, yet circumstances
beyond the control of the most experienced traveler may sometimes arise
to defeat the best concerted plans. It is not, for example, an
impossible contingency that the traveler may, by unforeseen delays,
consume his provisions, lose them in crossing streams, or have them
stolen by hostile Indians, and be reduced to the necessity of depending
upon game for subsistence. Under these circumstances, a few
observations upon the habits of the different animals that frequent the
Plains and on the best methods of hunting them may not be altogether
devoid of interest or utility in this connection.
THE BUFFALO.
The largest and most useful animal that roams over the prairies is the
buffalo. It provides food, clothing, and shelter to thousands of
natives whose means of livelihood depend almost exclusively upon this
gigantic monarch of the prairies.
Not many years since they thronged in countless multitudes over all
that vast area lying between Mexico and the British possessions, but
now their range is confined within very narrow limits, and a few more
years will probably witness the extinction of the species.
The traveler, in passing from Texas or Arkansas through southern New
Mexico to California, does not, at the present day, encounter the
buffalo; but upon all the routes north of latitude 36 deg. the animal is
still found between the 99th and 102d meridians of longitude.
Although generally regarded as migratory in their habits, yet the
buffalo often _winter_ in the snows of a high northern latitude. Early
in the spring of 1858 I found them in the Rocky Mountains, at the head
of the Arkansas and South Platte Rivers, and there was every indication
that this was a permanent abiding-place for them.
There are two methods generally practiced in hunting the buffalo, viz.:
running them on horseback, and stalking, or still-hunting. The first
method requires a sure-footed and tolerably fleet horse that is not
easily frightened. The buffalo cow, which makes much better beef than
the bull, when pursued by the hunter runs rapidly, and, unless the
horse be fleet, it requires a long and exhausting chase to overtake
her.
When the buffalo are discovered, and the hunter intends to give chase,
he should first dismount, arrange his saddle-blanket and saddle, buckle
the girth tight, and make every thing about his horse furniture snug
and secure. He should then put his arms in good firing order, and,
taking the lee side of the herd, so that they may not get "_the
wind_" of him, he should approach in a walk as close as possible,
taking advantage of any cover that may offer. His horse then, being
cool and fresh, will be able to dash into the herd, and probably carry
his rider very near the animal he has selected before he becomes
alarmed.
If the hunter be right-handed, and uses a pistol, he should approach
upon the left side, and when nearly opposite and close upon the
buffalo, deliver his shot, taking aim a little below the centre of the
body, and about eight inches back of the shoulder. This will strike the
vitals, and generally render another shot unnecessary.
When a rifle or shot-gun is used the hunter rides up on the right side,
keeping his horse well in hand, so as to be able to turn off if the
beast charges upon him; this, however, never happens except with a
buffalo that is wounded, when it is advisable to keep out of his reach.
The buffalo has immense powers of endurance, and will run for many
miles without any apparent effort or diminution in speed. The first
buffalo I ever saw I followed about ten miles, and when I left him he
seemed to run faster than when the chase commenced.
As a long buffalo-chase is very severe labor upon a horse, I would
recommend to all travelers, unless they have a good deal of surplus
horse-flesh, never to expend it in running buffalo.
Still-hunting, which requires no consumption of horse-flesh, and is
equally successful with the other method, is recommended. In stalking
on horseback, the most broken and hilly localities should be selected,
as these will furnish cover to the hunter, who passes from the crest of
one hill to another, examining the country carefully in all directions.
When the game is discovered, if it happen to be on the lee side, the
hunter should endeavor, by making a wide detour, to get upon the
opposite side, as he will find it impossible to approach within rifle
range with the wind.
When the animal is upon a hill, or in any other position where he can
not be approached without danger of disturbing him, the hunter should
wait until he moves off to more favorable ground, and this will not
generally require much time, as they wander about a great deal when not
grazing; he then pickets his horse, and approaches cautiously, seeking
to screen himself as much as possible by the undulations in the
surface, or behind such other objects as may present themselves; but if
the surface should offer no cover, he must crawl upon his hands and
knees when near the game, and in this way he can generally get within
rifle range.
Should there be several animals together, and his first shot take
effect, the hunter can often get several other shots before they become
frightened. A Delaware Indian and myself once killed five buffaloes out
of a small herd before the remainder were so much disturbed as to move
away; although we were within the short distance of twenty yards, yet
the reports of our rifles did not frighten them in the least, and they
continued grazing during all the time we were loading and firing.
The sense of smelling is exceedingly acute with the buffalo, and they
will take the wind from the hunter at as great a distance as a mile.
When the animal is wounded, and stops, it is better not to go near him
until he lies down, as he will often run a great distance if disturbed;
but if left to himself, will in many cases die in a short time.
The tongues, humps, and marrow-bones are regarded as the choice parts
of the animal. The tongue is taken out by ripping open the skin between
the prongs of the lower jaw-bone and pulling it out through the
orifice. The hump may be taken off by skinning down on each side of the
shoulders and cutting away the meat, after which the hump-ribs can be
unjointed where they unite with the spine. The marrow, when roasted in
the bones, is delicious.
THE DEER.
Of all game quadrupeds indigenous to this continent, the common red
deer is probably more widely dispersed from north to south and from
east to west over our vast possessions than any other. They are found
in all latitudes from Hudson's Bay to Mexico, and they clamber over the
most elevated peaks of the western sierras with the same ease that they
range the eastern forests or the everglades of Florida. In summer they
crop the grass upon the summits of the Rocky Mountains, and in winter,
when the snow falls deep, they descend into sheltered valleys, where
they fall an easy prey to the Indians.
Besides the common red deer of the Eastern States, two other varieties
are found in the Rocky Mountains, viz., the "black-tailed deer," which
takes its name from the fact of its having a small tuft of black hair
upon the end of its tail, and the _long-tailed_ species. The former of
these is considerably larger than the eastern deer, and is much darker,
being of a very deep-yellowish iron-gray, with a yellowish red upon the
belly. It frequents the mountains, and is never seen far away from
them. Its habits are similar to those of the red deer, and it is hunted
in the same way. The only difference I have been able to discern
between the long-tailed variety and the common deer is in the length of
the tail and body. I have seen this animal only in the neighborhood of
the Rocky Mountains, but it may resort to other localities.
Although the deer are still abundant in many of our forest districts in
the east, and do not appear to decrease very rapidly, yet there has
within a few years been a very evident diminution in the numbers of
those frequenting our Western prairies. In passing through Southern
Texas in 1846, thousands of deer were met with daily, and, astonishing
as it may appear, it was no uncommon spectacle to see from one to two
hundred in a single herd; the prairies seemed literally alive with
them; but in 1855 it was seldom that a herd often was seen in the same
localities. It seemed to me that the vast herds first met with could
not have been killed off by the hunters in that sparsely-populated
section, and I was puzzled to know what had become of them. It is
possible they may have moved off into Mexico; they certainly are not in
our territory at the present time.
Twenty years' experience in deer-hunting has taught me several facts
relative to the habits of the animal which, when well understood, will
be found of much service to the inexperienced hunter, and greatly
contribute to his success. The best target-shots are not necessarily
the most skillful deer-stalkers. One of the great secrets of this art
is in knowing how to approach the game without giving alarm, and this
can not easily be done unless the hunter sees it before he is himself
discovered. There are so many objects in the woods resembling the deer
in color that none but a practiced eye can often detect the difference.
When the deer is reposing he generally turns his head from the wind, in
which position he can see an enemy approaching from that direction, and
his nose will apprise him of the presence of danger from the opposite
side. The best method of hunting deer, therefore, is _across the wind_.
While the deer are feeding, early in the morning and a short time
before dark in the evening are the best times to stalk them, as they
are then busily occupied and less on the alert. When a deer is espied
with his head down, cropping the grass, the hunter advances cautiously,
keeping his eyes constantly directed upon him, and screening himself
behind intervening objects, or, in the absence of other cover, crawls
along upon his hands and knees in the grass, until the deer hears his
steps and raises his head, when he must instantly stop and remain in an
attitude fixed and motionless as a statue, for the animal's vision is
his keenest sense. When alarmed he will detect the slightest movement
of a small object, and, unless the hunter stands or lies perfectly
still, his presence will be detected. If the hunter does not move, the
deer will, after a short time, recover from his alarm and resume his
grazing, when he may be again approached. The deer always exhibits his
alarm by a sudden jerking of the tail just before he raises his head.
I once saw a Delaware Indian walk directly up within rifle range of a
deer that was feeding upon the open prairie and shoot him down; he was,
however, a long time in approaching, and made frequent halts whenever
the animal flirted his tail and raised his head. Although he often
turned toward the hunter, yet he did not appear to notice him, probably
taking him for a stump or tree.
When the deer are lying down in the smooth prairie, unless the grass is
tall, it is difficult to get near them, as they are generally looking
around, and become alarmed at the least noise.
The Indians are in the habit of using a small instrument which imitates
the bleat of the young fawn, with which they lure the doe within range
of their rifles. The young fawn gives out no scent upon its track until
it is sufficiently grown to make good running, and instinct teaches the
mother that this wise provision of nature to preserve the helpless
little quadruped from the ravages of wolves, panthers, and other
carnivorous beasts, will be defeated if she remains with it, as her
tracks can not be concealed. She therefore hides her fawn in the grass,
where it is almost impossible to see it, even when very near it, goes
off to some neighboring thicket within call, and makes her bed alone.
The Indian pot-hunter, who is but little scrupulous as to the means he
employs in accomplishing his ends, sounds the bleat along near the
places where he thinks the game is lying, and the unsuspicious doe, who
imagines that her offspring is in distress, rushes with headlong
impetuosity toward the sound, and often goes within a few yards of the
hunter to receive her death-wound.
This is cruel sport, and can only be justified when meat is scarce,
which is very frequently the case in the Indian's larder.
It does not always comport with a man's feelings of security,
especially if he happens to be a little nervous, to sound the
deer-bleat in a wild region of country. I once undertook to experiment
with the instrument myself, and made my first essay in attempting to
call up an antelope which I discovered in the distance. I succeeded
admirably in luring the wary victim within shooting range, had raised
upon my knees, and was just in the act of pulling trigger, when a
rustling in the grass on my left drew my attention in that direction,
where, much to my surprise, I beheld a huge panther within about twenty
yards, bounding with gigantic strides directly toward me. I turned my
rifle, and in an instant, much to my relief and gratification, its
contents were lodged in the heart of the beast.
Many men, when they suddenly encounter a deer, are seized with nervous
excitement, called in sporting parlance the "_buck fever_," which
causes them to fire at random. Notwithstanding I have had much
experience in hunting, I must confess that I am never entirely free
from some of the symptoms of this malady when firing at large game, and
I believe that in four out of five cases where I have missed the game
my balls have passed too high. I have endeavored to obviate this by
sighting my rifle low, and it has been attended with more successful
results. The same remarks apply to most other men I have met with. They
fire too high when excited.
THE ANTELOPE.
This animal frequents the most elevated bleak and naked prairies in all
latitudes from Mexico to Oregon, and constitutes an important item of
subsistence with many of the Prairie Indians. It is the most wary,
timid, and fleet animal that inhabits the Plains. It is about the size
of a small deer, with a heavy coating of coarse, wiry hair, and its
flesh is more tender and juicy than that of the deer. It seldom enters
a timbered country, but seems to delight in cropping the grass from the
elevated swells of the prairies. When disturbed by the traveler, it
will circle around him with the speed of the wind, but does not stop
until it reaches some prominent position whence it can survey the
country on all sides, and nothing seems to escape its keen vision. They
will sometimes stand for a long time and look at a man, provided he
does not move or go out of sight; but if he goes behind a hill with the
intention of passing around and getting nearer to them, he will never
find them again in the same place. I have often tried the experiment,
and invariably found that, as soon as I went where the antelope could
not see me, he moved off. Their sense of hearing, as well as vision, is
very acute, which renders it difficult to stalk them. By taking
advantage of the cover afforded in broken ground, the hunter may, by
moving slowly and cautiously over the crests of the irregularities in
the surface, sometimes approach within rifle range.
The antelope possesses a greater degree of curiosity than any other
animal I know of, and will often approach very near a strange object.
The experienced hunter, taking advantage of this peculiarity, lies down
and secretes himself in the grass, after which he raises his
handkerchief, hand, or foot, so as to attract the attention of the
animal, and thus often succeeds in beguiling him within shooting
distance.
In some valleys near the Rocky Mountains, where the pasturage is good
during the winter season, they collect in immense herds. The Indians
are in the habit of surrounding them in such localities and running
them with their horses until they tire them out, when they slay large
numbers.
[Illustration: CALLING UP ANTELOPES.]
The antelope makes a track much shorter than the deer, very broad and
round at the heel, and quite sharp at the toe; a little experience
renders it easy to distinguish them.
THE BEAR.
Besides the common black bear of the Eastern States, several others are
found in the mountains of California, Oregon, Utah, and New Mexico,
viz., the grizzly, brown, and cinnamon varieties; all have nearly the
same habits, and are hunted in the same manner.
From all I had heard of the grizzly bear, I was induced to believe him
one of the most formidable and savage animals in the universe, and that
the man who would deliberately encounter and kill one of these beasts
had performed a signal feat of courage which entitled him to a lofty
position among the votaries of Nimrod. So firmly had I become impressed
with this conviction, that I should have been very reluctant to fire
upon one had I met him when alone and on foot. The grizzly bear is
assuredly the monarch of the American forests, and, so far as physical
strength is concerned, he is perhaps without a rival in the world; but,
after some experience in hunting, my opinions regarding his courage and
his willingness to attack men have very materially changed.
In passing over the elevated table-lands lying between the two forks of
the Platte River in 1858, I encountered a full-grown female grizzly
bear, with two cubs, very quietly reposing upon the open prairie,
several miles distant from any timber. This being the first opportunity
that had ever occurred to me for an encounter with the ursine monster,
and being imbued with the most exalted notions of the beast's
proclivities for offensive warfare, especially when in the presence of
her offspring, it may very justly be imagined that I was rather more
excited than usual. I, however, determined to make the assault. I felt
the utmost confidence in my horse, as she was afraid of nothing; and,
after arranging every thing about my saddle and arms in good order, I
advanced to within about eighty yards before I was discovered by the
bear, when she raised upon her haunches and gave me a scrutinizing
examination. I seized this opportune moment to fire, but missed my aim,
and she started off, followed by her cubs at their utmost speed. After
reloading my rifle, I pursued, and, on coming again within range,
delivered another shot, which struck the large bear in the fleshy part
of the thigh, whereupon she set up a most distressing howl and
accelerated her pace, leaving her cubs behind. After loading again I
gave the spurs to my horse and resumed the chase, soon passing the
cubs, who were making the most plaintive cries of distress. They were
heard by the dam, but she gave no other heed to them than occasionally
to halt for an instant, turn around, sit up on her posteriors, and give
a hasty look back; but, as soon as she saw me following her, she
invariably turned again and redoubled her speed. I pursued about four
miles and fired four balls into her before I succeeded in bringing her
to the ground, and from the time I first saw her until her death-wound,
notwithstanding I was often very close upon her heels, she never came
to bay or made the slightest demonstration of resistance. Her sole
purpose seemed to be to make her escape, leaving her cubs in the most
cowardly manner.
Upon three other different occasions I met the mountain bears, and once
the cinnamon species, which is called the most formidable of all, and
in none of these instances did they exhibit the slightest indication of
anger or resistance, but invariably ran from me.
Such is my experience with this formidable monarch of the mountains. It
is possible that if a man came suddenly upon the beast in a thicket,
where it could have no previous warning, he might be attacked; but it
is my opinion that if the bear gets _the wind_ or sight of a man at
any considerable distance, it will endeavor to get away as soon as
possible. I am so fully impressed with this idea that I shall hereafter
hunt bear with a feeling of as much security as I would have in hunting
the buffalo.
The grizzly, like the black bear, hybernates in winter, and makes his
appearance in the spring with his claws grown out long and very soft
and tender; he is then poor, and unfit for food.
I have heard a very curious fact stated by several old mountaineers
regarding the mountain bears, which, of course, I can not vouch for,
but it is given by them with great apparent sincerity and candor. They
assert that no instance has ever been known of a female bear having
been killed in a state of pregnancy. This singular fact in the history
of the animal seems most inexplicable to me, unless she remain
concealed in her brumal slumber until after she has been delivered of
her cubs.
I was told by an old Delaware Indian that when the bear has been
traveling against the wind and wishes to lie down, he always turns in
an opposite direction, and goes some distance away from his first track
before making his bed. If an enemy then comes upon his trail, his keen
sense of smell will apprise him of the danger. The same Indian
mentioned that when a bear had been pursued and sought shelter in a
cave, he had often endeavored to eject him with smoke, but that the
bear would advance to the mouth of the cave, where the fire was
burning, and put it out with his paws, then retreat into the cave
again. This would indicate that Bruin is endowed with some glimpses of
reason beyond the ordinary instincts of the brute creation in general,
and, indeed, is capable of discerning the connection between cause and
effect. Notwithstanding the extraordinary intelligence which this
quadruped exhibits upon some occasions, upon others he shows himself to
be one of the most stupid brutes imaginable. For example, when he has
taken possession of a cavern, and the courageous hunter enters with a
torch and rifle, it is said he will, instead of forcibly ejecting the
intruder, raise himself upon his haunches and cover his eyes with his
paws, so as to exclude the light, apparently thinking that in this
situation he can not be seen. The hunter can then approach as close as
he pleases and shoot him down.
THE BIG-HORN.
The big-horn or mountain sheep, which has a body like the deer, with
the head of a sheep, surmounted by an enormous pair of short, heavy
horns, is found throughout the Rocky Mountains, and resorts to the most
inaccessible peaks and to the wildest and least-frequented glens. It
clambers over almost perpendicular cliffs with the greatest ease and
celerity, and skips from rock to rock, cropping the tender herbage that
grows upon them.
It has been supposed by some that this animal leaps down from crag to
crag, lighting upon his horns, as an evidence of which it has been
advanced that the front part of the horns is often much battered. This
I believe to be erroneous, as it is very common to see horns that have
no bruises upon them.
The old mountaineers say they have often seen the bucks engaged in
desperate encounters with their huge horns, which, in striking
together, made loud reports. This will account for the marks sometimes
seen upon them.
The flesh of the big-horn, when fat, is more tender, juicy, and
delicious than that of any other animal I know of, but it is a _bon
bouche_ which will not grace the tables of our city epicures until a
railroad to the Rocky Mountains affords the means of transporting it to
a market a thousand miles distant from its haunts.
In its habits the mountain sheep greatly resembles the chamois of
Switzerland, and it is hunted in the same manner. The hunter traverses
the most inaccessible and broken localities, moving along with great
caution, as the least unusual noise causes them to flit away like a
phantom, and they will be seen no more. The animal is gregarious, but
it is seldom that more than eight or ten are found in a flock. When not
grazing they seek the sheltered sides of the mountains, and repose
among the rocks.
[Illustration: THE NEEDLES. Between Cayetano Mountains and the San
Juan River--Sierra de la Plata, or Silver Mountains, in the distance.]
ITINERARIES.
LIST OF ITINERARIES:
SHOWING THE DISTANCES BETWEEN CAMPING-PLACES, THE CHARACTER OF THE
ROADS, AND THE FACILITIES FOR OBTAINING WOOD, WATER, AND GRASS ON THE
PRINCIPAL ROUTES BETWEEN THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER AND THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
No. Page
I. From Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Santa Fe and Albuquerque,
New Mexico. By Captain R. B. Marcy, U.S.A. 257
II. From Fort Leavenworth to Santa Fe, by the way of the upper
ferry of the Kansas River and the Cimarron 260
III. Camping-places upon a road discovered and marked out from
Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Dona Ana and El Paso, New Mexico, in
1849. By Captain R. B. Marcy, U.S.A. 263
IV. From Leavenworth City to Great Salt Lake City 266
V. From Salt Lake City to Sacramento and Benicia, California 273
VI. From Great Salt Lake City to Los Angeles and San Francisco,
California 277
VII. From Fort Bridger to the "City of Rocks." From Captain
Handcock's Journal 279
VIII. From Soda Springs to the City of Rocks, known as Hudspeth's
Cut-off 282
IX. Sublet's Cut-off, from the junction of the Salt Lake and
Fort Hall Roads 282
X. From Lawson's Meadows, on the Humboldt River, to Fort
Reading, via Rogue River Valley, Fort Lane, Oregon Territory, Yreka,
and Fort Jones 283
XI. From Soda Springs to Fort Wallah Wallah and Oregon City,
Oregon, via Fort Hall 285
XII. Route for pack trains from John Day's River to Oregon
City 288
XIII. From Indianola and Powder-horn to San Antonio, Texas 288
XIV. Wagon-road from San Antonio, Texas, to El Paso, N.M., and
Fort Yuma, California 289
XV. From Fort Yuma to San Diego, California 292
XVI. From El Paso, New Mexico, to Fort Yuma, California, via
Santa Cruz 294
XVII. From Westport, Missouri, to the gold diggings at Pike's
Peak and "Cherry Creek," N.T., via the Arkansas River 295
XVIII. From St. Paul's, Min., to Fort Wallah Wallah, Oregon 302
XIX. Lieutenant E. F. Beale's route from Albuquerque to the
Colorado River 307
XX. Captain Whipple's route from Albuquerque, New Mexico, to
San Pedro, California 308
XXI. From Fort Yuma to Benicia, California. From Lieutenant
R. S. Williamson's Report 315
XXII. A new route from Fort Bridger to Camp Floyd, opened by
Captain J. H. Simpson, U.S.A., in 1858 317
XXIII. From Fort Thorne, New Mexico, to Fort Yuma, California 318
XXIV. Lieutenant Bryan's Route from the Laramie Crossing of the
South Platte to Fort Bridger, via Bridger's Pass 320
XXV. Wagon-route from Denver City, at the Mouth of Cherry Creek,
to Fort Bridger, Utah 323
XXVI. From Nebraska City, on the Missouri, to Fort Kearney 326
XXVII. From Camp Floyd, Utah, to Fort Union, New Mexico. By
Colonel W. W. Loring, U.S.A. 327
XXVIII. Wagon-route from Guaymas, Mexico, to Tubac, Arizona. From
Captain Stone's Journal 333
I.--_From Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Santa Fe and Albuquerque, New
Mexico._ By Captain R. B. MARCY, U.S.A.
Miles.
Fort Smith to
15. Strickland's Farm.--The road crosses the Poteau River at Fort
Smith, where there is a ferry; it then follows the Poteau
bottom for ten miles. This part of the road is very muddy
after heavy rains. At 14 miles it passes the Choctaw Agency,
where there are several stores. There is the greatest
abundance of wood, water, and grass at all camps for the first
200 miles. Where any of these are wanting it will be specially
mentioned. The road passes through the Choctaw settlements for
about 150 miles, and corn and supplies can be purchased from
these Indians at reasonable rates.
11. Camp Creek.--Road crosses a prairie of three miles in length,
then enters a heavy forest. The camp is on a small branch,
with grass plenty in a small prairie about 400 yards to the
left of the road.
12. Coon Creek.--Road passes through the timber, and is muddy in
a rainy season.
12. Sans Bois Creek.--Prairie near; some Choctaw houses at the
crossing.
14. Bend of Sans Bois Creek.--Indian farm.
15. South Fork of Canadian, or "Gain's Creek."--Road traverses
a very rough and hilly region. There is a ford and a ferry
upon the creek. Indian farm on the west bank.
12. First ford of Coal Creek.--Road crosses over a rolling
prairie, and at four miles the Fort Washita road turns to the
left.
Second ford of Coal Creek.--Indian farm.
4. Little Cedar Mountain.--Very rough, mountainous road.
6. Stony Point.--Very rough, mountainous road.
5. Shawnee Village.--Several Indian houses.
14. Shawnee Town.--Road passes several small prairies. Indian
settlement; store on opposite bank of Canadian River, near
the camp.
21. Delaware Mountain.--Road passes over a very beautiful country,
with small streams of good water frequent, and good camps. It
crosses small prairies and groves of timber.
5. Boggy River.--Road passes a country similar to that mentioned
above.
3. Clear Creek.--Road turns to the right near a prominent round
mound. Beautiful country, diversified with prairies and
timbered lands.
7. Branch of Topofki Creek.--Beautiful country and fine roads.
9-1/2. Cane Creek.--Excellent camp.
5. Small Branch.--Road passes about two miles from the old "Camp
Arbuckle," built by Captain Marcy in 1853, since occupied by
Black Beaver and several Delaware families.
11-1/2. Mustang Creek.--Road runs on the dividing ridge between the
waters of the Washita and Canadian, on a high prairie.
17-1/2. Choteau's Creek.--Road passes on the high prairie opposite
Choteau's old trading-house, and leaves the outer limits of the
Indian settlements. Excellent road, and good camps at short
distances.
11-3/4. Choteau's Creek.--Road runs up the creek; is smooth and good.
12-3/4. Head of Choteau's Creek.--Road runs up the creek, and is good.
17-1/4. Branch of Washita River.--Road runs over an elevated prairie
country, and passes a small branch at six miles from last camp.
5-3/4. Branch of "Spring Creek."--Good camp.
16. Head of "Spring Creek."--Road traverses a high prairie country,
is smooth and firm.
13. Red Mounds.--Road runs over a high rolling prairie country,
and is excellent.
5. Branch of Washita River.--Good road.
15-3/4. Branch of Canadian.--Road continues on the ridge dividing
the Washita and Canadian rivers; is smooth and firm.
17-3/4. Branch of Washita River.--Road continues on the "divide."
18. Branch of Canadian.--Road continues on the divide from one
to four miles from the Canadian.
19. On Canadian River.--Good road.
16. Little Washita River.--Good road; timber becoming scarce.
13. Branch of Canadian.--Good road.
17-1/2. Antelope Buttes.--Road runs along the Canadian bottom, and
in places is sandy.
14. Rush Lake.--Small pond on the prairie. No wood within half a
mile; some buffalo chips; poor water.
16. Branch of Washita River.--Good road on the divide.
10-1/4. Dry River.--Road descends a very long hill, and crosses the
dry river near the Canadian. Water can be found by digging
about a foot in the sand of the creek. Good grass on the west
bank.
17. Branch of Canadian.--Road winds up a very long and abrupt hill,
but is smooth and firm.
22-1/2. Timbered Creek.--Road passes over a very elevated prairie
country, and descends by a long hill into the beautiful valley
of Timbered Creek.
11-1/2. Spring Branch.--Good camp.
14. Spring Branch.--Good camp.
17-3/4. Branch of Canadian.--Road passes a small branch 3-1/2 miles
from the last camp.
18-3/8. Branch of Canadian.--Road passes a small branch of the
Canadian at 8 miles from the last camp.
17-7/8. Spring Branch.--Good road.
9-1/2. Branch of Canadian.--Good road and camp.
18-1/2. Branch of the Canadian.--Good road and camp.
10-1/4. Pools of Water.--Good camp.
10. Large Pond.--Good camp.
25. Pools of Water.--No wood; water brackish. The road passes
over a very elevated and dry country, without wood or water.
18-1/2. Head of Branch.--At 13-1/2 miles the road crosses a branch
of the Canadian.
19-3/4. Laguna Colorado.--Road here falls into an old Mexican
cart-road. Good springs on the left up the creek, with wood
and grass abundant.
7. Pools of Water.--Road runs through cedars.
10-3/8. Pajarito Creek.--Grass begins to be rather short in places,
but is abundant on the creek.
13-1/2. Gallenas Creek.--Good camp.
15. 2d Gallenas Creek.--Good road.
16-1/2. Pecos River at Anton Chico.--This is the first settlement
after leaving Camp Arbuckle. Corn and vegetables can be
purchased here. Grass is generally short here.
15. Pecos River opposite Questa.--Road runs through the cedar,
and is firm and good. Camp is in sight of the town of Questa,
upon a very elevated bluff.
21-3/4. Laguna Colorado.--Road passes through a wooded country for a
portion of the distance, but leaves it before reaching camp,
where there is no wood, but water generally sufficient for
trains. In very dry seasons it has been known to fail. The
road forks here, the right leading to Santa Fe via Galistio
(45-1/2 miles), and the left to Albuquerque.
22-1/2. San Antonio.--Good road.
18-3/4. Albuquerque.--Good road.
Total distance from Fort Smith to Albuquerque, 814-3/4 miles.
Total distance from Fort Smith to Santa Fe, 819 miles.
* * * * *
II.--_From Fort Leavenworth to Santa Fe, by the way of the upper ferry
of the Kansas River and the Cimarron._
[In this table the distances, taken by an odometer, are given in miles
and hundredths of a mile. The _measured_ distances between the crossing
of the Arkansas and Santa Fe are from Major Kendrick's published table.
Wood, water, and grass are found at all points where the absence of
them is not stated.]
Miles.
From Fort Leavenworth to
2.88. Salt Creek.
9.59. Stranger's Creek.
13.54. Stranger's Creek.
9.60. Grasshopper Creek.
6.50. Grasshopper Creek.
2.86. Grasshopper Creek.
2.60. Grasshopper Creek.
4.54. Soldier's Creek.
2.45. Upper Ferry, Kansas River.
7.41. Pottawatomie Settlement.
5.75. Pottawatomie Creek.
3.89. White Wakarussi Creek.
7.78. White Wakarussi Creek.
6.27. White Wakarussi Creek.
0.73. Road from Independence.--No place to encamp.
5.72. White Wakarussi Creek.
2.51. White Wakarussi Creek.
2.82. 142-mile Creek.
7.80. Bluff Creek.
5.77. Rock Creek.
5.08. Big John Spring.
2.29. Council Grove.
7.97. Elm Creek.--Water generally.
8.06. Diamond Spring.
1.42. Diamond Creek.
15.46. Lost Spring.--No wood.
9.25. Mud Creek.--Water uncertain; no wood.
7.76. Cottonwood Creek.
6.16. Water Holes.--Water generally; no wood.
12.44. Big Turkey Creek.--No water.
7.83. Little Turkey Creek.--Water uncertain; no wood.
18.19. Little Arkansas River.
10.60. Owl Creek.--Water generally in holes above and below crossing.
6.39. Little Cow Creek.--Water only occasionally.
2.93. Big Cow Creek.--Water holes, 10 miles (estimated). Water
uncertain; no wood.
18.24. Bend of the Arkansas.
6.66. Walnut Creek.
16.35. Pawnee Rock.--Teams sometimes camp near here, and drive stock
to the Arkansas to water. No wood.
5.28. Ash Creek.--Water above and below crossing, uncertain.
6.65. Pawnee Fork.--Best grass some distance above crossing.
From Pawnee Fork to the lower crossing of the Arkansas, a
distance of 98-1/2 miles, convenient camping-places can be
found along the Arkansas; the most prominent localities are
therefore only mentioned. A supply of fuel should be laid in
at Pawnee Fork to last till you pass Fort Mann, though it may
be obtained, but inconveniently, from the _opposite_ side of
the Arkansas. Dry Route branches off at 3-1/2 miles (estimated).
This route joins the main one again 10 miles this side of Fort
Mann. It is said to be a good one, but deficient in water and
without wood.
11.43. Coon Creek.
46.58. Jackson's Island.
5.01. Dry Route comes in.
10.05. Fort Mann.
25.34. Lower Crossing of the Arkansas.--The Bent's Fort Route
branches off at this point. For the distances upon this route,
see next table. A supply of wood should be got from this
vicinity to last till you reach Cedar Creek.
15.68. Water-hole.--Water uncertain; no wood.
30.02. Two Water-holes.--Water uncertain; no wood.
14.14. Lower Cimarron Springs.--No wood.
20.00. Pools of Water.--Water uncertain; no wood.
19.02. Middle Springs of the Cimarron.--No wood.
12.93. Little Crossing of the Cimarron.--No wood.
14.10. Upper Cimarron Springs.--No wood. Pools of water, 7 miles
(estimated). No wood.
19.05. Cold Spring.--A tree here and there in the vicinity. Pools of
water, 11 miles (estimated). Water uncertain; no wood.
16.13. Cedar Creek.--M'Nees' Creek, 10 miles (estimated). Water
indifferent and uncertain; scant pasture; no wood. Arroyo
del la Sena, 2-1/2 miles (estimated). No water.
21.99. Cottonwood Creek.--No water. Arroyo del Burro, 5 miles
(estimated).
15.17. Rabbit-ear Creek.--10 miles (estimated), springs. Round Mound,
8 miles (estimated). No water; no wood; no camping-place. Rock
Creek, 10 miles (estimated). Grazing scant; no wood.
26.40. Whetstone Creek.--Spring; no wood. Arroyo Don Carlos, 10-1/2
miles (estimated). Water, etc., to the left of the road.
14.13. Point of Rocks.--Water and grass _up the canon_, just after
crossing the _point_; scattering shrub cedars on the
neighboring heights.
16.62. Sandy Arroyo.--Water uncertain; no wood. Crossing of Canadian
River, 4-3/4 miles (estimated). Grazing above the crossing;
willows.
10.05. Rio Ocate.--Wood 1/3 of a mile to right of road; grass in
the canon. Pond of water, 13-1/2 miles (estimated). No wood.
19.65. Wagon Mound.--Santa Clara Springs. Wood brought from the Rio
Ocate. Rio del Perro (Rock Creek), 17-1/2 miles (estimated).
21.62. Canon del Lobo.--Rio Moro, 3-1/2 miles (estimated). Rio
Sapillo, 1 mile (estimated). The Bent's Fort Route comes in here.
18.00. Las Vegas.--Forage purchasable.
13.05. Tacolote.--Forage purchasable. Ojo Vernal, 5 miles (estimated).
No grass to speak of.
14.00. San Miguel.--Forage purchasable; no grass.
21.81. Ruins of Pecos.--Grazing very scant. Cottonwood Creek, 4-1/2
miles (estimated). Water uncertain; no grass.
13.41. Stone Corral.--No grass.
10.80. Santa Fe.--Forage purchasable; no grazing.
* * * * *
III.--_Camping-places upon a road discovered and marked out from
Fort Smith, Arkansas, to Dona Ana and El Paso, New Mexico, in 1849._
By Captain R. B. MARCY, U.S.A.
Miles.
Fort Smith to
65. South Fork of the Canadian.--The road from Fort Smith to the
South Fork of the Canadian follows the same track as the road
to Albuquerque and Santa Fe, and by reference to the tables of
distances for that road the intermediate camps will be found.
15. Prior's Store.--Grass, wood, and water near.
17-1/2. Little Boggy.--Good camp. Wherever there are not the requisites
of wood, water, and grass for encamping, it will be specially
noted; when they are not mentioned they will always be found.
13. Little Boggy.--Good camp.
15-1/2. Boggy Depot.--Store and blacksmith's shop.
12-3/5. Blue River.--The road passes over a flat section, which
is muddy after rains.
8-1/2. Fort Washita.--Good camp half a mile before reaching the fort.
The road forks at the Indian village on the Boggy, the left
being the most direct. There are settlers along the road, who
will give all necessary information to strangers. Corn plenty.
22. Preston Texas, on Red River.--The road from Fort Washita runs
through the Indian settlements, passing many places where good
camps may be found, and crosses the Red River at Preston. There
is a ferry here; also stores and a blacksmith's shop.
20. M'Carty's.--Road runs through a heavy-timbered country,
crossing several streams where there are good camps.
14-2/5. Elm Fork of the Trinity, at Gainesville.--Road passes over a
section diversified by prairies and groves of timber.
12. Elm Fork of Trinity.--Good camp.
11. Elm Fork of Trinity.--Excellent camps. Road passes over a
beautiful country rapidly settling up with farmers, who
cultivate and sell grain at low rates.
9. Turkey Creek.--Tributary of Red River. Road emerges from the
upper "Cross Timbers" two miles from camp.
26-3/4. Buffalo Springs.--Springs of good water, but of limited
amount, in a ravine.
12. On a Ravine.--Pools of good water and a small running stream,
not reliable.
13-1/2. On a Ravine.--Pools of water.
17-1/4. On a Ravine.--Pools of water.
17-1/4. Running branch of Cottonwood Spring.--Branch about two feet
wide, good water; wood about half a mile distant.
14. Fort Belknap.--Good road through post-oak timber. County seat
and town at Fort Belknap. Good camp on the west side of the
Brazos, which is always fordable except in very high water.
14. Small Branch.--Water in holes.
18. Water-holes.--Pools of water. Road passes over prairie and
timbered lands, is very smooth and level.
7-1/2. Stem's Farm, on Clear Fork of the Brazos River.--Good road;
excellent camp, with abundance of wood, water, and grass.
Indian reservation here.
13. Elm Creek, or Qua-qua-ho-no.--Good road over rolling prairie
and mesquite lands.
17. Ravine.--Pools of standing water. Good road.
18. Ravine.--Pools of standing water. Good road.
27. Small Creek.--Tributary of the Brazos. Good road.
6. Pools of Water.--Good camp.
8-1/2. Small Branch.--Good water.
20-1/2. Tributary of the Colorado.--Brackish water.
3-1/4. Rio Colorado.--Brackish water. Road very excellent.
12-1/10. Spring on the Road.--Good water.
22-9/10. Big spring to the left of the road, affording a great amount
of water, which runs off in a small stream.
23. Laguna Colorado.--Water somewhat sulphurous; fuel mesquite
roots; grass abundant.
35. Mustang Pond.--This pond is north of the road about two
miles, and was found in 1849, but emigrants and others have
not been able to find it since. For this reason I would advise
travelers to fill their water-kegs at the Laguna Colorado, as
in a very dry season they might not be able to get any water
until they reach the Sand Hills. The road is excellent over
the "Llano Estacado," or Staked Plain.
34-1/2. Sand Hills.--Water in holes. The water is good here, and can
always be relied on as permanent. The road through the Sand
Hills is very heavy, and I would advise travelers with loaded
wagons to make half loads.
31-1/2. Laguna near the Pecos River.--Road passes through the hills,
and descends the high prairie to the valley of the Pecos.
Laguna on the left.
15-5/8. Crossing of Pecos.--Water deep and not fordable; river 42
yards wide. A road leads up the eastern bank of the Pecos to
a ford with rock bottom. Good camps can be had at almost any
point on the Pecos. The water is brackish, but can be used
without harm.
54-1/2. Pecos River.--Point of the river where the road turns off
toward Delaware Creek.
9-1/8. Delaware Creek.--Good road after leaving the Pecos River.
The road on the Pecos is good in the bottom in very dry
weather, but after heavy rains it is submerged and very muddy.
Travelers should then turn off to the bluffs. The water in
Delaware Creek is brackish.
11-7/8. Ojo de San Martin.--Fine spring of fresh water, also mineral
spring. Good road up Delaware Creek.
15-3/10. Independence Spring.--Large spring of excellent water. Look
out for Indians.
5-1/10. Ojo del Camins.--Good spring in the pine timber at the base
of the mountain.
4-1/2. Peak of the Guadalupe.--Spring at the foot of the mountain.
Road descends the mountain, and is very steep.
23-7/8. Ojo del Cuerbo.--Road descends through a very rough and
sinuous ravine, and crosses a long prairie to camp at a
pond of standing water. No wood.
26. Cornudas (Wells).--Well in the rocks; plenty of water for
small parties. Road good.
8-3/4. Sierra del Alamo.--Road good; water limited in quantity.
There is a small spring upon the side of the
mountain. No wood except a few mesquite roots.
22-1/4. Waco Tanks.--Good water in a large reservoir in the rocks.
The road here branches, the left leading to El Paso and the
right to Dona Ana.
28. El Paso, on the Rio del Norte.--Road good, with some sand;
no water upon it.
The distance from the "Waco Tanks" to Dona Ana is 63 miles,
but 40 miles of the road is over heavy sand, and no water
until reaching the mountain, 25 miles from Dona Ana. I would
recommend travelers to take the El Paso road in preference.
Total distance from Fort Smith to El Paso, 860 miles.
* * * * *
IV.--_From Leavenworth City to Great Salt Lake City._
Miles.
Leavenworth City to
3. Salt Creek.--Good camp; wood, water, and grass.
12. Cold Spring.--To the right of the road, in a deep ravine,
plenty of wood, water, and grass.
12. Small Branch.--To the north of the road, in an arroya,
good wood, water, and grass. Here enters the road from
Atcheson, 6 miles distant.
16-2/3. Grasshopper Creek.--Good wood, water, and grass.
9-1/2. Walnut Creek.--Road passes a town called Whitehead, 4
miles from last camp. Water in pools, but 3/4 of a mile
below is a fine spring; plenty of wood, water, and grass.
17. Grasshopper Creek.--Good camp, with wood, water, and
grass.
12-1/2. Big Nemehaw, two miles above Richland.--Good wood, water,
and grass near the creek.
11. Water-holes.--On the ridge, at the head of a ravine, are
wood, water, and grass, but in a dry time there would
be but little water.
10-3/4. Vermilion Creek.--Water in the creek not good, but there
is a good well of cold water near the road. Wood and grass
good.
21-1/2. Big Blue River.--Upper crossing, good ford; plenty of wood,
water, and grass. Fine clear stream, 60 yards wide.
17-1/2. Branch of the Big Blue.--Camp half a mile north of the
road; good wood, water, and grass.
15. Turkey, or Rock Creek.--Good spring 400 yards to the north
of the road. Store at the crossing. Good wood, water, and
grass.
19. Big Sandy.--Wood, water, and grass good.
19. Little Blue River.--Road runs across the hills without
water until reaching camp. Good wood, water, and grass.
18-3/4. Little Blue River.--Camp is at the point where the road
turns off from the creek. Good camps may be found any where
on the Little Blue, with excellent wood, water, and grass.
Fine running stream.
15. Little Blue River.--Road strikes the creek again, and
keeps it to the camp. Good wood, water, and grass.
19. Elm Creek.--Road leaves the Little Blue, and runs along
a divide to the head of Elm Creek, where we found water
in holes, with some few trees; grass good.
20. Platte River.--Road crosses one small branch, where there
is water except in a dry season. Good camp on the Platte,
with wood, water, and grass.
15. Fort Kearney.--Good camp about two miles from the fort,
upon the Platte, either above or below; grass, wood, and
water abundant.
17. Platte River--Road runs along the river, where there is
plenty of grass, and occasionally a few cottonwood-trees.
Here the buffalo generally begin to be seen, and the
traveler can always get a plenty of buffalo-chips along
in this section.
16-3/4. On Plum Creek.--Road runs along the Platte to Plum Creek,
where there is a little wood, with good grass and water.
Mail station at the crossing of Plum Creek.
22-1/3. On Platte River.--Road runs along the Platte bottom
after crossing Plum Creek, and is good except in wet
weather. The road occasionally comes near the Platte,
and, although the timber becomes thin, yet places are
found where fuel can be obtained. Grass is plenty at
all points.
23. On Platte River.--Road continues along the river valley
over a flat country where the water stands in ponds,
and is boggy in wet weather. Camps occasionally on
the river, but little fuel. Grass and water good.
14. On Platte River.--Road continues along the valley, with
the same character as before, but more timber. Camp
opposite Brady's Island. Plenty of wood, water, and
grass.
17-1/4. Slough.--On the Prairie. Road runs from one to three
miles from the river. No wood all day; plenty of grass,
and buffalo-chips for cooking.
15-1/4. Platte River.--Road crosses O'Fallon's Bluffs, where there
is a good camping-place on the right of the road. Plenty
of wood, water, and grass on a small stream, which is part
of the Platte. Mail station here.
16-1/2. South Platte River.--Road runs along the Platte, with no
timber. Good grass and water at any point, with buffalo-chips
for fuel.
17. South Platte River.--No timber all day. Good water and grass
at all points, with buffalo-chips.
8. South Platte Crossing.--No wood all day. Good water and
grass, with buffalo-chips. The river is about 600 yards wide,
rapid, with quicksand bottom, but can be forded when not above
a medium stage. It is best to send a footman ahead to
ascertain the depth of water before crossing the wagons and
animals.
19. Ash Hollow, at North Platte River.--Road leaves the South Fork
of the Platte, and strikes over the high prairie for 16 miles,
when it descends the high bluffs bordering the valley of the
North Platte, and enters Ash Hollow, where there is a plenty
of wood and a small spring of water. Half a mile beyond this
the road reaches the river. Mail station and a small grocery
here.
16-3/4. North Platte.--Very sandy road; no wood; grass and water
plenty at all points; buffalo-chips sufficient for cooking.
17. North Platte.--Road sandy in places; no wood; good grass
and water; some buffalo-chips.
16-1/2. North Platte.--Road good; no wood; good grass and water;
cattle-chips in places.
18-3/4. North Platte.--No wood. Camp opposite "Chimney Rock,"
which is a very peculiar formation on the south of the road,
and resembles a chimney. Grass good. Road muddy after rains.
[Illustration: CHIMNEY ROCK.]
17-1/2. North Platte.--No wood; grass and water good.
16. "Horse Creek," branch of the North Platte.--In seven
miles the road passes through Scott's Bluffs, where there is
generally water in the first ravine about 200 yards below the
road. The road then descends the mountain, at the foot of
which is the Platte and a mail station. A little wood can be
obtained at Scott's Bluffs; there is none on Horse Creek.
14-1/4. North Platte.--Road follows the river bottom all day.
Wood, water, and grass on the river.
12. Fort Laramie.--Road rough and rocky in places. There are
wood and water plenty, and before many trains have passed the
grass is good above the fort. Mail station and post-office
here, with a sutler's store well stocked with such articles as
the traveler wants.
10. North Platte.--Road good, but hilly in places. Camp is in
the river bottom, with plenty of wood, water, and grass. Hot
spring two miles above here.
14. Bitter Creek.--There are two roads, both of which lead to
Salt Lake. The upper or south road is best in the spring or in
wet weather. I traveled the lower road. Wood, water, and grass
are good.
17-3/4. Horse-shoe Creek.--Fine camp, with excellent wood, water,
and grass. The road here forks, one passing to the left over
the hills, and the other running nearer the Platte.
20-1/2. North Platte River.--Good road along near the river. Good
wood, water, and grass. Road crosses the river at 12-1/2
miles.
20-1/4. North Platte River.--Road crosses the river again, and the
camp is two miles above the mouth of La Prell Creek. Good
wood, water, and grass.
19. North Platte River.--Road runs along the river, and is
smooth and good. The camp is two miles above the crossing of
Deer Creek, where there is a blacksmith's shop and store. Good
grass, wood, and water.
16. North Platte River.--Good road, with wood, water, and grass
at camp.
13. North Platte River.--Good road passing the bridge, where
there is a blacksmith's shop and store, also a military
station and a mail station. At two miles from camp the road
crosses the river on a good ford with rocky bottom. The wood,
water, and grass are abundant.
23. Red Buttes, on the North Platte.--Road is very hilly, and
in some places sandy; passes Willow Spring, where there is
grass and a little wood. Good wood, water, and grass at camp.
Mail station here.
11. Sweet Water Creek.--Road leaves the river at the Red Buttes,
and strikes over the high rolling prairie. Good grass and
water, but little wood at camp.
15. On Sweet Water Creek.--Road passes a blacksmith's shop and
store at the bridge six miles from camp, and at 2-1/2 miles
from the camp it passes the "Devil's Gate" and a mail station.
The Sweet Water here runs between two perpendicular cliffs,
presenting a most singular and striking appearance. Take wood
at the Gate for camp. Good grass and water at all places on
Sweet Water Creek.
[Illustration: THE DEVIL'S GATE.]
20. Sweet Water Creek.--Road muddy after rains, and some bad
ravines to cross. Wood, water, and grass of the best quality
at camp.
12. Sweet Water Creek.--Road runs along the valley of the Sweet
Water, where there is plenty of wood and grass in places, but
little wood at the camp noted.
8. On Sweet Water.--Road good; no wood; grass abundant.
20. On Sweet Water.--Road good; no wood.
17. Strawberry Creek.--Little wood; grass and water abundant.
Road leaves "Sweet Water," and ascends a very long hill which
is very rocky.
20-1/4. South Pass.--Road crosses the dividing ridge, and strikes
the Pacific Spring, where there is excellent water and good
grass if many cattle have not passed, in which event the
traveler had better continue on down the creek which issues
from the spring. Sage for fuel; no wood.
15-3/4. Dry Sandy Creek.--Grass scarce; no wood; some sage and
greasewood; water brackish, but drinkable; road good. Here the
traveler should send ahead and have the best spots of grass
found, as it is very scarce throughout this section. Sublett's
Cut-off turns off here for Soda Springs and Fort Hall. Take
the left for Fort Bridger and Salt Lake City.
15. Little Sandy Creek.--Grass in spots along the creek bottom,
and some fuel.
18. Big Sandy Creek.--Grass in detached spots on the creek, and
little fuel.
21-1/2. Green River, Upper Ford.--Grass and fuel on the river.
7. Green River, at the Lower Ford.--Good grass and fuel below
the ford. Ferry in time of high water. Mail station and
grocery.
16. Black's Fork.--Good grass and fuel.
7. Ham's Fork.--United States bridge, no toll. Good grass
and fuel.
12. Black's Fork.--Road forks at the crossing of Black's Fork,
both roads leading to Fort Bridger. This itinerary is upon
the left-hand road, which crosses Black's Fork two miles
from Ham's Fork.
13. Smith's Fork.--Good camps along Black's Fork at any place,
but the road leaves the stream for several miles. Wood,
water, and grass at the confluence of Black's and Smith's
Forks.
18-1/4. Fort Bridger.--Good camps above and below the fort.
Military post, mail station, and store.
Muddy Creek.--Good grass, wood, and water. Grass short after
many trains have passed. It is then necessary to go up the
creek to find good grass. Road passes a fine spring 3 miles
back.
19. Bear River.--Good camps, with wood, water, and grass.
Good ford, except in very high water. Sulphur Creek two miles
back.
19. Red Fork.--In "Echo Canon," two miles below Cashe Cave,
good grass and fuel; water plenty.
19-1/4. Weber River.--Good grass, wood, and water. Mail station.
United States bridge for high water; no toll.
5-1/4. Spring Branch.--Good camp. Road leaves the river, and takes
the left into a valley.
9. Bauchmin's Creek.--Road crosses over a mountain, and
descends to the creek, where there is a good camp.
14. Big Canon Creek.--Road crosses Bauchmin's Creek 13 times
in 8 miles, then ascends the mountain along a small creek,
which is well wooded and good grass.
6. Emigration Creek.--Road leaves Canon Creek, and crosses the
two mountains, which are very steep and long. Grass and wood
before crossing the "Little Mountain."
10-1/4. Great Salt Lake City.--Forage can be purchased here, as well
as most of the articles the traveler may require, at high
prices. There is no camping-place within two miles of the
city. It is best for those who encamp with animals to cross
the Jordan River, or to stop near the mouth of the canon
before entering the city.
Total distance from Fort Leavenworth to Salt Lake City, 1168 miles.
* * * * *
V.--_From Salt Lake City to Sacramento and Benicia, California._
Miles.
From Salt Lake City to
18. Hait's Ranch.--Good road, and grass abundant until Bear
River is crossed.
17-1/4. Ford on Weber River.--Good road, and grass abundant.
15. Point of Mountain.--Spring water warm but pure.
12-3/4. Box Elder Creek.--Excellent water; grass and fuel
abundant in the canons.
23. Ferry on Bear River.--Four miles above the usual crossing.
Excellent grass.
3/4. West Bank.--Grass not good on the west bank.
6. Small Spring.--Cross Bear River below the mouth of the
Mallade.
17-1/2. Blue Springs.--Water and grass scarce, and of poor quality.
21-1/4. Deep Creek.--Heavy sage, but good grass on the right of the
road, near sink.
20-1/2. Cedar Springs.--Good grass on the hills, with fine water
and wood; rolling country.
10. Rock Creek.--Plenty of grass to the left of the road; good
camping-place.
14-1/2. Raft River.--Good camp.
22-1/2. Goose Creek Mountains.--Grass, wood, and water abundant;
rough and mountainous country. Road from Fort Bridger comes
in here _via_ Soda Springs.
17-3/4. On Goose Creek.--Rough, broken country, with a good road,
which runs along the creek for several miles.
28-1/2. Head of 1000 Spring Valley.--Road runs over a rolling,
barren section, with but little water except on the river
far to the right.
25-3/4. 1000 Spring Valley.--Meadow grass; good fuel scarce. Camps
can be found at short intervals along the road.
14. Head of Humboldt River.--Fine camping-places, and road
generally good, running over a rolling country.
23. Slough of the Humboldt.--Extensive bottoms of good grass.
20. Humboldt River.--Along the entire course of the Humboldt
good grass is found in the bottoms. The road, which follows
the bottom, is hard and smooth, but can not be traveled in
seasons of very high water, as the bottom overflows. It is
then necessary to take the road on the bluffs, where the grass
is scarce. The river, when not above a fording stage, can be
forded at almost any point, and good camps can be found at
short intervals. There are spots along the river bottom where
alkaline ponds are frequent. These are poisonous to cattle,
and should be avoided by travelers. It is well along this
river not to allow animals to drink any water except from the
river where it is running.
20. Humboldt River.--The foregoing remarks apply for every camp
on the Humboldt River.
22. Humboldt River.--Good camps along the Humboldt Valley.
23. Humboldt River.
13-1/2. Humboldt River.
16-1/2. Humboldt River.
25. Humboldt River.
13-3/4. Humboldt River.
24. Humboldt River.
24-1/2. Humboldt River.
20-1/4. Humboldt River.
18-3/4. Humboldt River.
13-1/2. Humboldt River.
18-1/4. Lawson's Meadows.--The road here forks, the left going by
the Carson Valley and Sacramento route, and the right _via_
Goose, Clear, and Rhett lakes, Applegate's Pass of the Cascade
Mountains, into Rogue River Valley, Fort Law, Oregon
Territory, Yreka, Fort Jones, Fort Reading, and Sacramento
River.
33-1/2. On Humboldt River.--Grass and water poor all the distance
to the Sink of the Humboldt.
19-1/2. Sink of Humboldt River.--The water at the Sink is strongly
impregnated with alkali; the road generally is good. Travelers
should not allow their stock to drink too freely of this
water.
26. Head Sink of Humboldt.--Road good.
45. Carson River.--Road crosses the desert, where there is no
water for stock, but there is a well where travelers can
purchase water for drinking. This part of the road should be
traveled in the cool of the day and at night. Grass good, also
the water.
2. Carson River.--Good bunch-grass near the road.
30. Carson River.--26 miles of desert; poor grass.
14. Eagle Ranch.--Good grass and water.
13. Reese's Ranch.--Good grass and water.
12. Williams' Ranch.--Very good water and grass.
15. Hope Valley.--Road rough and rocky.
3. Near Sierra.--Good camp, with water and grass.
7. First Summit.--Road rough and rocky; good water; grass
scarce.
2. Second Summit.--Road mountainous and very steep; snow nearly
all the year.
10. Lakes.--Good camp.
12. Leek Springs.--Good grass near the road.
10. Trader's Creek.--Grass and fuel scarce.
12. Sly Park.--Grass and fuel near the road.
Forty Mile House.--Water plenty; grass scarce.
Sacramento Valley.--Water plenty; purchase forage.
Sacramento City.--Water plenty; purchase forage.
Total distance from Salt Lake City to Benicia, 973 miles.
* * * * *
At the Big Meadows, 23 miles from the Sink of the Humboldt, travelers
should make a halt of a day or two to rest and recruit their animals
and to cut grass for crossing the desert, as this is the last
good camping-place until reaching Carson River. The ground near this
place is boggy, and animals should be watered with buckets. The
camping-ground here is on the right bank of the river, and about half a
mile to the left of the main road. The water is in a slough, near its
head, where will be found some springs which run off a short distance,
but soon sink.
The road across the desert is very sandy, especially toward the western
extremity. Twenty miles from the Sink of the Humboldt there are four
wells. About half a mile east of the mail station the road leading to
the wells turns to the right, where water can be purchased for from one
to two shillings for each man and beast.
At 9-1/2 miles beyond the mail station, on the desert, a road turns off
from the main trace toward a very high sandy ridge, and directly upon
the top of this ridge is the crater of an extinct volcano, at the
bottom of which is a salt lake. Upon the extreme north end of this lake
will be found a large spring of fresh water, sufficient for 1000
animals. From thence to "Ragtown," on Carson River, is three miles.
I would advise travelers, when their animals become exhausted before
reaching this water, to take them out of harness and drive them to this
place to recruit. There is some grass around the lake.
This desert has always been the most difficult part of the journey to
California, and more animals have probably been lost here than at any
other place. The parts of wagons that are continually met with here
shows this most incontestably.
* * * * *
VI.--_From Great Salt Lake City to Los Angeles and San Francisco,
California._
Miles.
Salt Lake City to
20-5/8. Willow Creek.--Good grass.
14. American Creek.--Good grass.
11-1/2. Provo City.--Town.
7-1/4. Hobble Creek.--Good camp.
6. Spanish Fork.--Good camp.
5. Peteetneet.--Good camp.
25. Salt Creek.--Several small streams between. Good camp.
18-5/8. Toola Creek.--Ford. No wood; grass good.
6-1/4. Sevier River.--Road is sandy, passing over a high ridge.
Good camp.
25-1/2. Cedar Creek.--Road rather mountainous and sandy. Good grass
and wood.
17-1/2. Creek.--This is the fourth stream south of Sevier River.
Road crosses two streams. Good camp.
3-5/8. Willow Flats.--The water sinks a little east of the road.
25. Spring.--Good grass and water.
22-1/4. Sage Creek.--Grass poor; wood and water.
5-1/8. Beaver Creek.--Good wood, water, and grass.
27-1/4. North Canon Creek.--In Little Salt Lake Valley. Good grass;
no wood. The road is rough and steep for six miles.
5-3/8. Creek.--Good wood, water, and grass.
6-3/4. Creek.--Good wood, water, and grass.
12-7/8. Cottonwood Creek.--Good grass and water.
9. Cedar Springs.--Good camp.
23. Pynte Creek.--Good grass one mile up the canon.
9. Road Springs.--Road is rough; good camp.
16. Santa Clara.--Road descending and rough; poor grass.
From this point to Cahoon Pass look out for Indians.
17-1/8. Camp Springs.--Two miles before reaching the springs the
road leaves the Santa Clara. Good grass.
22-7/8. Rio Virgin.--Road crosses over the summit of a mountain.
Good road; grass poor.
39-5/8. Rio Virgin.--Road runs down the Rio Virgin, crossing it
ten times. Grass good down the river.
19-5/8. Muddy Creek.--Road for half a mile is very steep and
sandy. Good camp.
52-5/8. Las Vegas.--Water is sometimes found 2-1/2 miles west of
the road in holes 23 miles from the Muddy, and some grass
about a mile from the road. Good camp.
5. On Vegas.--Road runs up the river. Good grass.
17. Cottonwood Spring.--Poor grass.
29-3/4. Cottonwood Grove.--No grass. Water and grass can be found
four miles west by following the old Spanish trail to a
ravine, and thence to the left in the ravine one mile.
21-3/4. Resting Springs.--Good grass and water. Animals should be
rested here before entering the desert.
7. Spring.--The spring is on the left of the road, and flows
into Saleratus Creek. Animals must not be allowed to drink the
Saleratus water.
14-1/8. Salt Springs.--Poor grass and no fresh water.
38-3/4. Bitter Springs.--Good road; poor grass.
30-3/4. Mohave River.--Good road and good grass.
51-1/2. On the Mohave.--Last ford. Good grass all the way up the
Mohave.
17. Cahoon Pass.--At the summit.
10. Camp.--Road bad down the canon.
11-1/2. Coco Mongo Ranch.
10. Del Chino Ranch.--Williams.
19-3/8. San Gabriel River.
6. San Gabriel Mission.
8-1/4. Pueblo de los Angeles.
65-3/4. Santa Clara River.--_On the Coast Route._ Good camps to
San Jose.
7-1/2. Buena Ventura Mission and River.--Road here strikes the
Pacific shore.
26. Santa Barbara.--Town.
45-3/4. San Yenness River.--At the Mission.
78-7/8. Santa Margareta.--Old Mission.
28-3/8. San Miguel.--Old Mission.
24-3/4. San Antonio River.
26-3/4. Rio del Monterey.
15-5/8. Solida Mission.--At the ford of Rio del Monterey.
37-1/2. San Juan Mission.
33. San Jose Pueblo.
75. San Francisco.
* * * * *
VII.--_From Fort Bridger to the "City of Rocks."_ From Captain
Handcock's Journal.
Miles.
Fort Bridger to
9. Little Muddy Creek.--Water brackish in pools along the creek;
tall bunch-grass; sage for fuel. Road runs over a barren
section, is rough, and passes one steep hill.
12-1/3. Big Muddy Creek.--The road, with the exception of two or
three bad gullies, is good for ten miles; it then follows the
Big Muddy bottom, which is flat and boggy. The camp is three
miles above the crossing. Some grass; sage for fuel.
14-1/5. Small Branch of the Muddy Creek.--Cross the river in three
miles at a bad ford. A mile above camp the grass is good. Road
generally good.
19-1/2. On Small Creek.--Road continues up the Muddy 9-1/2 miles to
its head. It then ascends to the divide between Bear and Green
Rivers, probably 800 feet, in 1-3/5 miles. The descent on the
other side is about the same. The road passes many fine
springs. At one and two miles back it passes points of hills,
where it is very rough. Good grass and sage at camp.
8-9/10. Bear River.--Bad creek to cross near the camp; thence to Bear
River Valley the road is good. It then follows down the river,
crossing Willow Creek. Good camp, with a large, fine spring.
17. Bear River.--Good road along the river; plenty of wood,
water, and grass at all points.
Foot of Grant's Mountain.--Road runs along Bear River; at
2-1/2 miles strikes Smith's Fork, a rapid trout stream. The
road crosses the lower ford. A few miles farther on is a bad
slough, which can be avoided by taking a round on the hills.
Cross Thomas's Fork on a bridge, also a slough near it; toll
$2.00 for each team and wagon. The road then leaves Bear River
Valley, and turns over a very steep hill. Good grass, wood,
and water.
12. Bear River.--Road ascends Grant's Mountain 1200 feet in 1-1/2
miles--double teams--then descends again into Bear River
Valley at 4-4/5 miles. Good wood, water, and grass.
17-2/5. Indian Creek.--Road crosses eight fine spring branches;
camp is on a beautiful trout stream. Good wood, water, and
grass.
11. Spring near Bear River.--Road is hilly, crossing two
spring branches. Good wood, water, and grass. The camp is on
the left and near the road.
11. Bear River.--At 6-7/10 miles the road strikes a large
group of springs called "Soda Springs," and here crosses Pine
Creek, on the left bank of which is a saleratus lake. Soon
after it strikes the main springs, and after crossing another
creek the "Steam-boat Spring" may be seen in the bed of the
river.
15. "Port Neuf," or Rock Creek.--At 2-3/10 miles the road leaves
Bear River near where it runs through a canon with high bluffs
on each side. At this point the California and Fort Hall roads
separate. The California road (called Hudspeth's Cut-off) then
crosses a valley between the Bear River and Port Neuf River
Mountains, 9 miles. No water from camp to camp. Good camp.
15. Marsh Creek.--About two miles above the main road the creek
can be forded; a road leads to it from the descent into the
valley. Road good; water and grass plenty; no wood.
16-1/5. Paunack Creek.--First part of the road is hilly; the remainder
good. Good camp.
7-1/5. Mallade River.--At 7-1/5 miles the road crosses the Mallade
River. Good camp 140 miles from Salt Lake City. Good road.
22-3/10. Small Creek.--The road ascends a ridge through a canon, and
descends to a valley on the other side. From the camp to the
summit of the ridge is 6-1/5 miles. The descent is 3-7/10
miles. It then crosses a valley 8 miles wide, and strikes a
canon which leads to the top of a hill over a rough road.
Plenty of wood, water, and grass at camp, but no water between
this and the last camp.
9-3/5. Small Creek.--Road after five miles strikes a canon with a
long but gentle ascent. Two miles from the entrance of this
canon is a spring branch. There is wood and some grass and
water at this place.
11-1/5. Spring Branch.--The road passes through a canon, and at 5
miles strikes the head of a spring branch, which it follows
down 2-1/2 miles to the junction with a larger branch, which
is bridged. At nine tenths of a mile another fork enters.
Grass very fine here. Road follows down this across the main
branch, and the camp is 2 miles below. Good camp.
18-1/2. Decassure Creek, or Raft River.--Road continues down the
creek 2-3/10 miles, and crosses, then ascends by a steep hill
to an elevated sage plain, leaving the creek at 11-4/5 miles,
and passes a slough with water. Good camp.
17-9/10. Spring Branch.--The road crosses the creek near the last
camp, and follows up a valley, crossing in five miles several
spring branches. At 2-9/10 miles it crosses the creek again,
and follows up the valley two miles farther, then crosses a
high sage plain 8-9/10 miles long, when it strikes a spring
150 yards to the left of the road, where there is an excellent
camp in a beautiful valley.
10. Junction of Salt Lake City Road.--Road passes several small
branches in 3 miles, then commences ascending through a canon
which, in 2-1/5 miles, leads to the entrance to the "City of
Rocks," and passes through these for three miles. It then
crosses a ridge, leaving the City of Rocks, and at ten miles
from last camp intersects the road from "Salt Lake City." At
1-2/5 miles beyond this a road leads off to the right to a
spring branch, 3 miles, where there is a good camp near the
foot of Goose Creek Mountain. From this point California
travelers can refer to the itinerary of the route from Salt
Lake City to Sacramento.
* * * * *
VIII.--_From Soda Springs to the City of Rocks, known as Hudspeth's
Cut-off._
Miles.
Soda Springs to
20. Bear River.--The road runs down Bear River, crossing
some small streams. Good camp.
10. Portner Creek.--Camp at the head of the creek. Good wood,
water, and grass.
12. Fork of Portner Creek.--Good camp.
15. Pauack Creek.--Road crosses a summit. Good road and camp.
12. Snake Spring.--Good camp.
12. Utha Spring.--Good camp.
15. Decassure Creek.--Road crosses a small stream; rather bad
crossing. Good camp.
18. City of Rocks.--Junction of Salt Lake road. Good camp.
* * * * *
IX.--_Sublets Cut-off, from the junction of the Salt Lake and Fort
Hall Roads._
Miles.
_Junction_ to
7. Big Sandy.
44. Green River.--From the Big Sandy to Green River (upper road)
there is an abundance of grass in places along the road, but
no water.
6. Small Creek.--The road runs up the creek. Good grass.
4. On the Creek.--Good grass and water.
12. Small Spring.--The spring is on the left of the road. Good
grass.
9. Ham's Fork.--Good wood, water, and grass.
6. Spring.--On the summit of a mountain. Good grass.
6. Muddy Creek.--Wood, water, and grass.
10. Spring.--In Bear River Valley. Good wood, water, and grass.
6. Smith's Fork.--In Bear, River Valley. Good wood, water;
and grass.
10. Tomaus' Fork.--Road runs down Bear River. Good wood, water,
and grass.
7. Spring Creek.--Wood, water, and grass.
7. Smith's Ford.--Road crosses over a spur of the mountain;
long and gradual ascent; descent rather abrupt. Good wood,
water, and grass.
8. Telleck's Fork.--Road runs down Bear River. Good camp.
4. Small Creek.--Good camp.
4. Small Creek.--Good camp.
7. Small Creek.--Good camp.
12. Soda Springs.--Left side of the road, among some cedars,
is a good camp.
Here take the left-hand road to California, called
_Hudspeth's Cut-off_.
* * * * *
X.--_From Lawson's Meadows, on the Humboldt River, to Fort Reading,
via Rogue River Valley, Fort Lane, Oregon Territory, Yreka, and Fort
Jones._
Miles.
Lawson's Meadows to
18-1/2. Mountain Spring.--Road leaves the Humboldt, and takes a
northwesterly course 12 miles to a spring of good water. Good
bunch-grass to the left of the road, and a small spring at the
camp. The road is plain on leaving the river, but after a few
days it becomes faint. Road from this point passes over a
desert country for about 60 miles, without good water or much
grass.
38-1/2. Black Rock Spring.--Road level and hard, with little
vegetation. In 14 miles pass springs, but the water is not
good. In 16 miles the road passes a slough which is difficult
to cross; water not good, but can be given to cattle in small
quantities. In five miles from this the road passes Black
Rock, mentioned by Colonel Fremont in his trip from Columbia
River in 1843-4. Three miles farther pass boiling springs,
very hot, but good cooled. Grass pretty good.
20-1/4. Mountain Rill.--Water good; bunch-grass in the vicinity. In
eight miles' travel the road passes a beautiful creek of pure
water, with good grass.
5-3/4. Lake (Marshy).
10-1/2. High Rock Canon.--This canon is 25 miles long, with wild and
curious scenery. Road crosses the creek frequently, and the
mud is bad. In the autumn the road is good.
14-3/4. High Rock Canon.
Small Creek.--Beautiful country, with the greatest abundance
of water and grass; also fuel.
25-1/4. Pine Grove Creek.--Road passes over an interesting country,
well supplied with wood, water, and grass, and passes around
the south end of a salt lake.
18-1/2. West Slope of Sierra.--Road passes over the mountain, which
is steep but not rocky, then descends to a small creek of good
water which runs into Goose Lake. Good grass and fuel. Look
out for the Indians, as they are warlike and treacherous here.
7-3/4. East shore of Goose Lake.--Excellent camp.
16-1/4. West shore of Goose Lake.--This is a beautiful sheet of
fresh water; great quantities of water-fowl resort to this
lake.
16-1/4. Slough Springs.--The road passes over a very rocky divide,
covered with loose volcanic debris, very hard for animals, and
wearing to their feet. They should be well shod before
attempting the passage.
18-1/2. Marshy Lake.--Road difficult for wagons.
15. Clear Lake.--Beautiful lake of pure water, with good grass
around its shore.
25-1/4. East shore of Rhett's Lake.--Road tolerable over a rolling,
rocky country, between lakes. The road crosses Lost River over
a natural bridge, on a solid, smooth ledge of rock.
19. West shore of Rhett's Lake.--Plenty of wood, water, and
grass along this road.
21. Klamath River.--Road leaves Rhett's Lake, and enters the
forest and mountains; tolerably good. Good camp.
15-1/4. Cascade Mountains.--The road passes over high mountains,
through lofty pine-trees. Camp is at Summit Meadows. Good
water and grass, also fuel.
14-1/4. Western slope of Cascade Mountains.--Rough roads.
19-1/4. Rogue River Valley.--Road descends into the settlements
in six miles, where there is a lovely fertile valley, well
settled with farmers.
23-3/4. Fort Lane.--Near "Table Rock," on Rogue River, eight miles
from Jacksonville. Dragoon post.
22-3/4. Rogue River Valley.--Good camp.
18. Siskiyou Mountains.--Road crosses the Siskiyou Mountains,
and is difficult for wagons.
18. Yreka.--Flourishing mining city.
18. Fort Jones.--Infantry post, in Scott's Valley.
20. Scott's Mountain.--Good camp at the foot of the mountain.
Road passes over the mountains, but is impassable for wagons.
90. Shasta City.--Good grass, wood, and water.
180. Sacramento City.
* * * * *
XI.--_From Soda Springs to Fort Wallah Wallah and Oregon City, Oregon_,
via _Fort Hall._
Miles.
Soda Springs to
25. Portner Creek.--Good camp. Take the right-hand road.
10. Ross's Creek.--Good camp.
10. Fort Hall Valley.--Good camp. Road runs down the creek.
8. Snake River.--Good camp. Road crosses the river bottom.
5. Fort Hall.
15. Small Branch.--Camp is three miles below the crossing of
Port Neuf River, which is fordable. Good wood, water, and
grass.
10. American Falls.--Good camp.
13. Raft River.--Road rough and rocky. Sage for fuel; grass
scarce.
17. Bend of Swamp Creek.--Grass scarce.
20. On Snake River.--Road crosses Swamp and Goose Creeks. Wood
on the hills; grass short.
25. Rock Creek.--Road crosses one small creek, and is very rough
and rocky for several miles, when it enters a sandy region,
where the grass is scarce; sage plenty, and willows on the
creek.
24. Snake River.--Road crosses several small branches. There is
but little grass except in narrow patches along the river
bottom.
26. Fishing Falls.--Road very crooked and rough, crossing two
small streams.
29. Snake River.--Road crosses several small creeks, but leaves
the main river to the north, and runs upon an elevated
plateau. Good grass at camp.
16. Snake River (ford).--Road tortuous; ford good in low water.
19. Small Branch.--Road crosses Snake River, and follows up a
small branch, leaving the river to the left. Good grass.
Road ascends to a high plateau, which it keeps during the
whole distance.
26. River "Aux Rochers."--Road passes Hot Springs, and is rough.
Wood, water, and grass plenty.
22. Small Creek.--Road crosses two small branches, and is very
rocky, but at camp grass, wood, and water are abundant.
23. Rio Boise.--Road crosses one small creek, and follows along
the Boise River. Good wood, water, and grass.
26. Fort Boise.--Road follows the south bank of Boise River to
the fort.
2. Fort Boise.--Road crosses Boise River. Good ford at ordinary
stages. Grass good in the river bottom.
20. River "Aux Matthews."--Good road. Grass abundant, but
coarse; wood and water plenty.
27. Snake River.--Road passes over a rough country. Grass scarce
and of a poor quality.
20. Burnt River.--Road leaves Snake River, and takes across
Burnt River, following up the north side of this to the
camp. It is mountainous and rough, but the grass is
good, and there is wood along the river.
22. Burnt River.--Road continues up the river, and is still
rough and mountainous. Grass and wood plenty.
26. Small Branch.--Road passes over a divide to "Powder River."
It is still rough, but getting better. The grass is good.
13. Powder River.--Good road; grass plenty.
21. Creek.--Road passes a divide, crossing several small
streams, and is smooth, with plenty of grass and fuel.
20. Creek.--Road crosses one small branch, and is rather rough.
The grass and fuel are good and abundant.
21. Creek.--Road follows down the creek for ten miles, then
turns up a small branch, and is good. There is plenty
of grass and fuel.
12. Branch.--Road crosses a divide and strikes another branch.
5. Small branch of the Umatilah River.--Good road, with plenty
of wood and grass.
16. Branch of Wallah Wallah River.--Wood, water, and grass.
18. Wallah Wallah River.--Wood, water, and grass. Columbia River
at Fort Wallah Wallah.--Wood, water, and grass.
10. Butler Creek.--Good camp.
18. Wells's Spring.--Good camp.
12. Willow Creek.--Good camp.
13. Cedar Spring.--Good camp.
6. John Day's River.--Good camp.
5. Forks of Road.--No camping. Left-hand road for wagons, and
right-hand for pack trains. This itinerary takes the left.
10. Ouley's Camp.--Good camp.
19. Soot's River.--Good camp.
6. Fall River.--Good camp.
10. Utah's River.--Good camp.
18. Soot's River.--Good camp.
6. Soot's River.--Good camp. Road follows up the river, crossing
it several times.
16. Sand River Fork.--Good grass a mile and a half to the left
of the road.
8. Good Camp.
15. Royal Hill Camp.--Good camp.
7. Sandy River.--But little grass.
45. Down the River.--Good camps all the distance.
25. Oregon City.--Good camps all the distance.
75. Salem.--Good camps all the distance.
* * * * *
XII.--_Route for pack trains from John Day's River to Oregon City._
Miles.
John Day's River to
17. Columbia River.--From John Day's River to the forks of the
road, and thence by the right-hand fork to the
Columbia. Good camp.
2-1/2. Soot's River Ferry.--Good camp.
15. Dalles.--Good camp.
25. Dog River.--Good camp.
15. Cascade Mountains.--One bad place.
9. Ouley's Rock.--Good camp.
20. Image Plain Ferry.--Good camp.
15. Portland.--Good camp.
12. Oregon City.--Good camp.
* * * * *
XIII.--_From Indianola and Powder-horn to San Antonio, Texas._
Miles.
Powder-horn to
4. Indianola, Texas.--Steamers run from New Orleans five times
a week to Powder-horn.
14. Chocolate Creek.--Good grass and water; fuel scarce. Road
passes over a low, flat country, which in wet weather
is heavy and muddy.
12. Grove.--Grove of oak; good water and grass. The road passes
over a hog-wallow prairie, which is very muddy, and almost
impassable for loaded teams after rains. The grass is abundant
every where in this section.
12-1/2. Victoria.--The road is good, passing along near the east
bank of the Guadalupe River. The country is thickly settled
with farmers, who sell grain at reasonable rates. Grass
abundant, also fuel.
34. Yorktown.--Road crosses the Guadalupe River on a bridge;
toll one dollar for a six-mule team. It then crosses a
low bottom for three miles; from thence the road is
good, over a rolling country, with plenty of wood,
water, and grass.
33. Cibello River.--Good road; wood, water, and grass plenty.
35. San Antonio.--Good road, with plenty of wood, water, and
grass along the road. The Cibello is fordable at
ordinary stages. The traveler can procure any thing he
may need at Victoria and at San Antonio.
* * * * *
XIV.--_Wagon-road from San Antonio, Texas, to El Paso, N.M., and
Fort Yuma, Cal._
[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]
Miles.
San Antonio to
6.41. Leona.
18.12. Castroville.
11.00. Hondo.
14.28. Rio Seco.
12.50. Sabinal.
13.46. Rio Frio.
15.12. Nueces.
10.27. Turkey Creek.
15.33. Elm Creek.--All good camps, with abundance of wood, water,
and grass. Country mostly settled, and the road very
good, except in wet weather, from San Antonio to Elm
Creek.
7.00. Fort Clarke.--Good grass, wood, and water. Road level and
good.
7.00. Piedra Pinta,--Good grass, wood, and water.
8.86. Maverick's Creek.--Good grass, wood, and water.
12.61. San Felipe.--Good grass, wood, and water.