18.27. California Springs.--Grass and water poor.
18.39. Devil's River.--Second crossing. Grass poor.
19.50. Devil's River.--Good camp. The only water between Devil's
River and Live Oak Creek is at Howard's Springs. The
road is very rough in places.
44.00. Howard's Springs.--Grass scarce; water plenty in winter;
wood plenty.
30.44. Live Oak Creek.--Good water and grass. The road passes
within 1-1/2 miles of Fort Lancaster.
7.29. Crossing of Pecos River.--Bad water and bad camp. The water
of the Pecos can be used.
5.47. Las Moras.--Good water, grass, and wood. The road is rough
on the Pecos.
32.85. Camp on the Pecos River.--Wood and grass scarce.
16.26. Escondido Creek.--At the crossing. Water good; little
grass or wood.
8.76. Escondido Spring.--Grass and water good; little grass.
19.40. Comanche Creek.--Grass and water good; little grass.
8.88. Leon Springs.--Grass and water good; no wood.
33.86. Barela Spring.--Grass and water good; wood plenty.
28.00. Fort Davis.--Good camp. From Fort Davis to Eagle Springs
there is an ascent, and one of the very best of roads.
18.42. Barrel Springs.--Water good; grass and wood fair.
13.58. Dead Man's Hole.--Good wood and water; grass scarce.
32.83. Van Horne's Wells.--No grass or wood, but they will be
found two miles back.
19.74. Eagle Springs.--Grass and wood poor; water about half a
mile from camp, in a narrow canon.
32.03. Mouth of Canon "de los Camenos."--The road is rather rough.
From here to Fort Bliss, opposite El Paso, the road
runs near the river, and camps may be made any where.
The wood, water, and grass are good at all points.
61.13. San Eluzario.--Mexican town.
9.25. Socorro.--Mexican town.
15.00. Fort Bliss, at El Paso.--United States military post and
Mexican town.
Total distance from San Antonio to El Paso, 654.27 miles.
* * * * *
Miles.
El Paso to
22. Cottonwood.--From El Paso to Messilla Valley, in the Gadsden
Purchase, the road runs up the east bank of the Rio
Grande to Fort Fillmore (N.M.), where it crosses the
river into the Messilla Valley.
22. Fort Fillmore.
6. La Messilla.
65. Cook's Spring.--From Messilla Valley to Tucson the road is
remarkably good, with good grass and water. The streams
on this section are the Mimbres and San Pedro, both
fordable, and crossed with little trouble. The Apache
Indians are generally met with in this country. There
is a flouring-mill two miles below El Paso, where flour
can be purchased at very reasonable prices.
18. Rio Mimbres.
17. Ojo la Vaca.
10. Ojo de Ynez.
34. Peloncilla.
18. San Domingo.
23. Apache Springs.
9. Cabesas Springs.
26. Dragon Springs.
18. Quercos Canon.--Bunch-grass will be found sufficient for
traveling purposes along this section of the road
between El Paso and Tucson.
6. San Pedro Crossing.
20. Cienega.
13. Cienega Creek.
20. Mission of San Navier.
8. Tucson.--Total distance from El Paso to Tucson, 305 miles.
5. Pico Chico Mountain.
35. First Camp on Gila River.
29. Maricopa Wells.--The Maricopa Wells are at the western
extremity of a fertile valley occupied by Pincos
Indians, who cultivate corn and other grain.
40. Tezotal.--Across Jornada. There is but little grass here,
but in the season the mesquite leaves are a good substitute.
10. Ten Mile Camp.
15. Oatman's Flat.--First crossing of the Gila River.
25. Second Crossing of the Gila.--The traveler can generally
find sufficient grass in the hills along the valley of
the Gila.
32. Peterman's Station.
20. Antelope Peak.
24. Little Corral.
16. Fort Yuma.
The distance from El Paso to Fort Yuma is 644 miles.
[Illustration: WELL IN THE DESERT.--ALAMO MOCHO.]
* * * * *
XV.--_From Fort Yuma to San Diego, California._
[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]
Miles.
Fort Yuma to
10.00. Los Algodones.--Along the Colorado.
10.00. Cook's Wells.--Here commences the great desert; water
nowhere good or reliable until arriving at Carizo
Creek. The points named are where deep wells have been
dug. "New River," though usually set down, is a dry
arroyo. The surface of the desert for seven miles on
the eastern side is drifting sand and heavy for wagons.
Then comes a section in the centre of the desert that
is hard and level. On the west side there is about
three miles of a mud flat.
21.90. Alamo Rancho.
16.40. Little Laguna.
4.50. New River.
5.80. Big Laguna.
26.40. Carizo Creek.--Water good; cane and brush for fuel, and
they afford some forage for the animals; no grass.
16.60. Vallecito.--Grass poor; wood and water sufficient.
17.80. San Felipe.--Grass poor; wood scarce; water good.
15.80. Warner's Ranch.--The road passes through a beautiful oak
grove, where there is an abundance of grass and water.
This is the summit of the mountain. At the Ranch the
grass is poor, and no wood. The water is good. The oak
grove terminates six miles from Warner's.
10.30. Santa Isabel.--Good grass, wood, and water. This was an
old Spanish mission, but is now occupied by some
Americans and Indians.
11.40. Laguna.--Two miles from last camp is a good camping-place.
The road passes over some steep hills, not high. This
is the best camp on the road.
12.00. San Pasquel.--For the first nine miles the road is level
and good to the top of the mountain, where there is a
good camping-place, with wood, water, and grass; thence
the road descends a very steep hill. The camp is on the
east side of the brook, near Soto's house.
18.80. Parrasquitas.--The road passes a good camp three miles
from San Pasqual. Wood, Water, and grass at Parrasquitas.
8.00. Fisher's House.--The road passes over several hills, and
at four miles is a good camping-place. Wood, water, and
grass at camp.
San Diego, California.--When animals are to be kept a
considerable time at San Diego, they should be taken
four or five miles up the river, as the grass is poor
near the town.
Total distance from Fort Yuma to San Diego, 217 miles.
* * * * *
XVI.--_From El Paso, New Mexico, to Fort Yuma, California_, via _Santa
Cruz._
[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]
Miles.
From El Paso to
26.10. Samalayuca.--Spring, with grass and wood.
38.00. Salado.--Bad water, with little grass and wood.
24.75. Santa Maria.--Good grass, wood, and water.
27.50. Mines of San Pedro.--Bad water; little grass or water.
19.20. Correlitos.--Good water, grass, and wood.
20.00. Janos.--Good water, grass, and wood.
12.00. Pelatudo.--Good water, grass, and wood.
30.00. San Francisco.--Water half a mile south of the road.
18.00. San Louis.--Good water, grass, and wood.
35.00. San Bernardino.--Good water, grass, and wood.
30.00. Ash Creek.--Grass, wood, and water.
37.00. Head of San Pedro.--Grass and water.
24.00. Santa Cruz.--Good grass, wood, and water.
31.00. Cocospe.--Much grass; 10 or 12 miles without water. Leave
Santa Cruz River at old Rancho San Lazaro. No water till
reaching the head of San Ignacio, except at nine miles, a
spring one mile west of the road.
26.00. Hemores.--From Cocospe to Santa Anna follow down the San
Ignacio, and in many places there is wood and grass. Grass
is much better at three miles from the river. At the foot
of the hills there is an abundance of grama-grass.
5.00. Terrenati.
4.00. San Ignacio.
5.20. Madina.
5.20. San Lorenzo.
2.60. Santa Marta.
5.20. Santa Anna.
26.00. Alamita.--Plenty of grass. Leave the river 10 or 12 miles
from Santa Anna, and no water thence to Alamita, which is a
small rancho.
31.20. Altar.--No water; grass abundant.
13.00. Laguna.--Small water-hole; grass scanty and poor.
52.00. Sonia.--Sometimes water is found 25 miles from the Laguna,
south of the road. There is a well at Sonia in the town,
and sometimes water in a hole 300 yards south of the town,
100 yards west of the road.
10.40. El Paso.--Well at El Paso supplying 100 animals; water
muddy and brackish; grass poor.
52.00. Sonorita.--No water on the road; at Sonorita are several
brackish springs. Grass poor; bad camping-place; saltpetre
at the springs.
Quita Oaquita.--No water on the road. Saline spring at camp,
better than at Sonorita, but the grass is not so good.
10.40. Agua Salado.--Water uncertain; grass poor.
23.40. Los Pleyes.--Water only in the rainy season, one mile west
of the road, hidden by bushes and difficult to find. Grass
pretty good.
28.60. Cabeza Prieta.--Natural tenajas in a ravine two miles from
the road; follow a wagon-track up this ravine between a
black and a red mountain. The water is good and abundant;
grass tolerable.
31.00. Poso.--No water on the road until reaching Poso. Here it
is abundant on the east side of the road; grass good one
mile west.
13.00. Rio Gila.--But little good grass.
26.00. Fort Yuma, at the crossing of the Colorado River.--But
little good grass for several miles.
Total distance from El Paso to Fort Yuma, 756 miles.
* * * * *
XVII.--_From Westport, Missouri, to the gold diggings at Pike's Peak
and "Cherry Creek" N.T._, via _the Arkansas River._
Miles.
Westport to
4-3/4. Indian Creek.--The road runs over a beautiful country.
Indian Creek is a small wooded stream, with abundance
of grass and water.
8-3/4. Cedar Creek.--The road passes over a fine country, and
there is a good camping-place at Cedar Creek.
8-1/2. Bull Creek.--The road is smooth and level, with less wood
than before. Camping good.
[Illustration: Sketch of the country in the vicinity of the Gold
Region near Pike's Peak and Cherry Creek.]
9-1/2. Willow Springs.--At nine miles the road passes "Black Jack
Creek," where there is a good camping-place. The road has
but little wood upon it at first, but it increases toward
the end of the march. The road is level for some distance,
but becomes more rolling, and the country is covered with
the finest grass. Good camp at one mile from the main road.
20-1/4. 110-Mile Creek.--The road traverses the same character of
country as yesterday, but with less woodland, is very smooth,
and at 9 and 12 miles passes "Rock Creeks," which have no
running water in a dry season. Good camp.
22-1/2. Prairie Chicken Creek.--At eight miles the road crosses
Dwissler Creek, which is a fine little stream; four miles
farther First Dragoon Creek, and at one mile farther the
Second Dragoon Creek, both fine streams, well wooded, and
good camping-places. Good camp.
20. "Big Rock Creek."--At one mile the road crosses a small wooded
branch. Three miles beyond it crosses "Elm Creek," where
a good camping-place may be found. At 7 miles it crosses
142-Mile Creek, and at 13 miles it crosses Bluff Creek, where
there is a good camping-place. Good camp.
20. "Council Grove," on Elm Creek.--Road passes "Big John Spring"
at 13 miles, and is smooth and good. A fine camp is found
three fourths of a mile beyond the "Grove," on Elm Creek,
with abundance of wood, water, and grass.
16. Diamond Spring.--At-eight miles the road crosses Elm Creek,
and passes over a section similar to that east of Council
Grove. It is fine in dry weather, but muddy after heavy
rains. Good camp at Diamond Spring.
16. Lost Spring.--One mile from camp the road passes a wooded
creek. From thence there is no more wood or permanent water
until arriving at camp. Take wood here for cooking, as there
is not a tree or bush in sight from Lost Spring. The country
becomes more level, with grass every where. The road is muddy
in wet weather.
15-3/4. Cottonwood Creek.--Road continues over a prairie country,
sensibly rising and improving. Wood, water, and grass at
camp.
22. Turkey Creek.--The road is good, and at 18 miles passes
Little Turkey Creek. No wood, and the water poor at camp;
grass good.
23. Little Arkansas River.--The road runs over a level prairie,
and at 3-1/2 miles passes "Big Turkey Creek," with the
Arkansas River Valley in sight all day. After rains there
are frequent pools of water along the road. Good camp.
20. "Big Cow" Creek.--The road passes for ten miles over a level
prairie, to Charez Creek, which is a bushy gully; thence six
miles to Little Cow Creek, which is a brushy stream, with
here and there a tree. Good camp here to the left of the
road, near a clump of trees. "Prairie-dog towns" commence
to be seen. Road very level. Buffalo-grass here.
20. Big Bend of the Arkansas.--The road at 12 miles strikes the
sand-hills of the Arkansas River. They are soon passed,
however, and the level river bottom is reached. The river
has a rapid current flowing over a quicksand bed. The road
is generally good from the last camp. Wood, water, and grass
at camp.
7. Walnut Creek.--The road is good. Cool springs at this camp;
good grass and wood.
21. Head of Coon Creek.--At five miles the road forks, one
following the river, the other a "short cut" "dry route"
to Fort Atkinson, where they unite on the river. The country
rises for ten miles on the dry route, then descends to the
river, and is covered with the short buffalo-grass. No wood
at camp.
18. Arkansas River.--The road passes over an undulating and
uninteresting prairie, with but little vegetation. The water
in dry weather is in pools.
19. Arkansas River, at Fort Atkinson.--The road runs over a
similar country to that of yesterday, with no wood near;
plenty of buffalo-chips for cooking, and good grass.
18-3/4. Arkansas River.--At 4-1/2 miles the road ascends a bluff
covered with thick buffalo-grass. On the river is heavy
bottom-grass. At 17 miles pass a ford. Grass good at camp.
19-1/4. Arkansas River.--The road is sandy for 14 miles, but not
deep except in places; thence to camp it is good. Good camp.
22. Arkansas River.--Country prairie, covered with short
buffalo-grass. Good camp.
22. Arkansas River.--The road is fine, crossing several dry-beds
of creeks, along which are seen a few scattering trees. Good
camp on a dry creek near the river.
24. Arkansas River.--The road runs over a barren plain at the
foot of the main plateau, and crosses two dry creeks near
the camp, on which are cottonwood-trees. Plenty of wood at
camp.
21. Arkansas River.--The road follows the base of the hills at
from one to three miles from the river. Good camp.
20. Arkansas River.--At seven miles the road strikes the "Big
Timbers," where there is a large body of cottonwood; thence
for three miles the road is heavy sand. Good camps along
here.
13. Arkansas River.--At one mile the road passes some old houses
formerly used as a trading-post. Here terminates the "Big
Timbers." Coarse grass at the camp.
15. Arkansas River.--At three miles the road passes the mouth of
Purgatoire Creek. Camp is below Bent's Fort. Good grass here.
24. Arkansas River.--Pass Bent's Fort. The grass is excellent in
the vicinity of the fort, but after this it is not so good.
The road runs over a high and considerably broken country.
Good camp.
11. Arkansas River.--Opposite the mouth of the Apishpa Creek;
good camp. The Huerfano Mountains and Spanish Peaks are in
sight from the camp. The "Cherokee Trail" comes in from
Arkansas near Bent's Fort, and leads to the gold diggings
at Cherry Creek.
9. Arkansas River.--Opposite the mouth of the Huerfano Creek.
Good camp, and a ford opposite Charles Audebee's house.
12. Arkansas River.--At this point the Cherokee trail bears to
the right and leaves the river. The left-hand, or river road,
runs up to the old pueblo at the mouth of the Fontaine qui
Bouille Creek. The right-hand road leads to the gold diggings.
[Illustration: SANGRE DE CRISTO PASS.]
15-3/4. Fontaine qui Bouille.--The road strikes in a northwest
course over the rolling country, and comes upon the creek
at a most beautiful camp, where there is a great abundance
of good wood, water, and grass. The wood, water, and grass
are good at all points on the Fontaine qui Bouille, and
travelers can camp any where upon this stream.
17-1/2. Fontaine qui Bouille.--Here the road forks, one running
up the river, and the other striking directly across to the
divide of the Arkansas and Platte. I prefer the left-hand
road, as it has more water and better grass upon it.
6-1/2. Forks of the "Fontaine qui Bouille."--The road to Cherry
Creek here leaves the "Fontaine qui Bouille" and bears to the
right. There is a large Indian trail which crosses the main
creek, and takes a northwest course toward "Pike's Peak." By
going up this trail about two miles a mineral spring will be
found, which gives the stream its name of "_The Fountain
that Boils_." This spring, or, rather, these springs, as
there are two, both of which boil up out of solid rock, are
among the greatest natural curiosities that I have ever seen.
The water is strongly impregnated with salts, but is
delightful to the taste, and somewhat similar to the
Congress-water. It will well compensate any one for the
trouble of visiting it.
17-1/2. Black Squirrel Creek.--This creek is near the crest of the
high divide between the Arkansas and Platte Rivers. It is a
small running branch, but always affords good water. There is
pine timber here, and the grass is good on the prairies to
the east. This is a locality which is very subject to severe
storms, and it was here that I encountered the most severe
snow-storm that I have ever known, on the first day of May,
1858. I would advise travelers to hasten past this spot as
rapidly as possible during the winter and spring months, as a
storm might prove very serious here.
14. Near the head of Cherry Creek.--The road crosses one small
branch at four miles from Black Squirrel Creek; it then takes
up to an elevated plateau, which in a rainy season is very
muddy. The camp is at the first timber that is found, near
the road, to the left. There is plenty of wood, water, and
grass here. There is also a good camping-place at the small
branch that is mentioned.
10. On Cherry Creek.--There is good grass, wood, and water
throughout the valley of Cherry Creek. The mountains are from
five to ten miles distant, on the left or west of the road,
and when I passed there was a great abundance of elk, deer,
antelope, bear, and turkeys throughout this section.
7. On Cherry Creek.--Good camp.
11. On Cherry Creek.--Good camp.
17. Mouth of Cherry Creek, at the South Platte.--Good camp, and
a town built up since I passed, called "_Denver City_."
Total distance from Westport to the gold diggings, 685-1/4 miles.
* * * * *
XVIII.--_From St. Paul's, Min., to Fort Wallah Wallah, Oregon._
Miles.
St. Paul's to
17-1/4. Small Brook.--The wood, water, and grass are abundant as far
as the "Bois des Sioux" River.
20-1/4. Cow Creek.--This stream is crossed on a bridge.
23-1/4. Small Lake.--North of the road. The road passes over a
rolling prairie, and crosses Elk River on a bridge.
17. Near Sauk Rapids.--The road crosses Elk River twice on
bridges; Mississippi River near.
18. Russel's.--Ferry across the Mississippi River, then follow
the Red River trail. Camp is on a cold spring brook.
6. Cold Spring Brook.--Cross Sauk River, 300 feet wide, 4-1/2
feet deep.
19-1/2. Lake Henry.--Road good.
18-3/4. Lightning Lake.--Cross Cow River in a ferry-boat; water 4-1/2
feet deep.
17-1/2. Lake.--One mile from Red River trail. Pass White Bean Lake.
9-1/2. Pike Lake.--Pass the South Branch of the Chippeway River.
Road runs over rolling prairie, and crosses a small branch.
19-1/4. Small Lake.--Cross Chippeway River in a boat. Road passes
numerous lakes and the best grass.
9-3/4. Small Lake.--Road passes rolling prairies, and crosses
Rabbit River.
27. "Bois des Sioux" River.--Cross Bois des Sioux Prairie;
rolling ground.
11. Wild Rice River.--Cross "Bois des Sioux" River, 70 feet wide
and 4 to 7 feet deep, muddy bottom and banks. Wood, water,
and grass at all camps between this and Maple River.
4-1/2. Small Creek.--Cross Wild Rice River on a bridge.
26-1/2. Sheyene River.--Smooth prairie road.
16-1/2. Maple River.--Cross Sheyene River on a bridge, and several
small branches.
20. Small Creek.--Smooth road; no wood.
20. Pond.--Wet and marshy; numerous ponds in sight; no wood.
15. Pond.--No wood; approaching Sheyene River.
13-1/2. Sheyene River.--Prairie more rolling; camp in the river
bottom. Wood, water, and grass abundant.
7. Slough.--Cross Sheyene River, 50 feet wide, 3-1/2 feet deep.
No wood.
10. Lake.--Rolling prairie, with many marshes. Wood, water, and
grass.
10-1/2. Pond.--Low, wet prairie; no wood; plenty of grass and water.
18-1/4. Marsh.--Smooth prairie, generally dry.
20. "Riviere a Jaques."--Smooth prairie, with marshes. Road
crosses the river several times. Wood, water, and grass.
21-1/2. Pond.--Hilly and marshy prairie, with small ponds, and no
wood.
12. Small Branch.--Marshy prairie, filled with ponds, with a
thin, short grass, and no wood.
19-3/4. Lake.--On a high knoll. Road crosses the South Fork of
Sheyene River; good crossing; thence rolling prairie,
passing "Balto de Morale," also a narrow lake 4-1/2 miles
long.
16-1/2. Pond.--Marshy prairie, ponds, and knolls; cross a small
branch at 7-3/4 miles. No wood.
17-3/4. Pond.--Rolling prairie. Cross Wintering River, a deep,
muddy stream 100 feet wide, also marshy prairies and ponds.
No wood.
16. Small Branch.--Tributary of Mouse River. Road skirts the
valley of Mouse River, crossing the ravines near their
heads.
15-1/4. Pond.--Undulating prairie with occasional marshes; the road
then turns up the high ridge called "Grand Coteau." No wood.
20-1/4. Lake.--Hilly road approaching Grand Coteau. No wood.
20. Lake.--Rolling prairie; smooth, good road; no wood.
15-1/2. Pond.--Road passes Grand Coteau at 11 miles, and runs
between two lakes. No wood, but plenty of "bois de vache"
for fuel.
19-1/4. Branch of White Earth River.--Country rolling and hilly.
Road passes wood at eight miles from camp.
23-1/4. Pond.--For two miles the road passes over a low, flat
country, after which the country is hilly. No wood.
23-1/2. Pond.--Rolling and hilly country, with rocky knobs. At 18
miles cross branch of Muddy Creek 15 feet wide. Wood in
ravines near this stream. No wood at camp.
20. Pond.--Rolling country. At 11 miles there is water in a
ravine. To the left there is more water, but the country
is rough. No wood.
16-1/4. Fort Union.--Road descends a hill to the fort; before this
it passes over high, firm prairie. Good grass near in the
hills.
6-1/2. Pond.--No wood; good grass.
6. Little Muddy River.--Good camp.
15-1/2. Creek.--Two good camps between this and the last. Wood,
water, and grass.
10. Big Muddy River.--Drift-wood for fuel.
11. Marsh near Missouri.--Good camp.
18. Poplar River.--Good camp. One or two good camps between
this and the last camp.
23-1/2. Creek near Missouri.--Good camp.
15. Slough near Missouri.--Good camp.
17-1/2. Milk River.--One good camp between this and the last camp.
13-1/2. Milk River.--Several good camps passed.
17-1/2. Milk River.--Good camp.
19-1/2. Milk River.--Several good camps passed.
17-3/4. Milk River.--At the crossing. The road follows a trail on
the bluffs, and descends again to the river.
7-1/2. Lake.--No wood; grass and water plenty.
12-1/2. Milk River.--Second crossing. Good camp.
12. Milk River.--Good camp.
15-1/2. Milk River.--Good camps between this and the last camp.
10-3/4. Milk River.--Good camp.
20. Milk River.--Good camp.
16. Milk River.--Good camp.
18. Milk River.--At the third crossing.--Good camp.
7-1/2. Branch of Milk River.--Good camp.
17-1/2. Branch of Milk River.--Several good camps between this and
the last camp.
6. Branch of Milk River.--Good camp.
19-1/4. Prairie Spring.--No wood; water and grass plenty.
13-3/4. Teton River.--Road crosses "Marias River."
8-3/4. Teton River, at Fort Benton.--A trading-post.
2-1/2. Small Creek.--Good wood, water, and grass.
18-3/4. Missouri River.--Good camp.
20-1/2. Missouri River.--Above the falls. Road much broken into
ravines. Wood, water, and grass.
16-3/4. Missouri River.--Road crosses first tributary above Fort
Benton at ten miles.
17. Missouri River.--The road becomes very bad after fourteen
miles, but is better on the north side of the Missouri.
6. Missouri River.--The road is exceedingly rough and broken;
crosses the river.--Good wood, water, and grass.
11. Tributary of the Missouri.--The most difficult part of the
road is passed, but the country is still hilly.
18-1/2. Tributary of the Missouri.--The road follows up the
last-mentioned stream to near its head. Good camps.
15. Near the summit of Little Blackfoot Pass, on a broad Indian
trail; excellent road.
14-3/4. Little Blackfoot River.--Road crosses the summit of the Rocky
Mountains. Good road for wagons, with many camping-places.
17-1/2. Little Blackfoot River.--Road good, descending along the
river. Near the camp a large fork comes in.
28-1/2. Little Blackfoot River.--Good road, which follows the broad,
open valley for 14 miles. Good camps.
19-1/2.-Little Blackfoot River.--The valley contracts so that wagons
will be forced to take the bed of the river in some places.
The river is fordable, and the trail crosses it five times
during the day.
22-1/2. Blackfoot River.--Sixteen miles from the last camp "Blackfoot"
and "Hell Gate" River's enter, and about one mile of this
distance is impassable for wagons; they would have to cross
the river, which is fordable. Good camps.
27-1/2. Fort Owen.--Road runs up the St. Mary's River to Fort Owen
over a broad, good trail in the valley.
40. St. Mary's River.--The south Nez Perces trail leaves the
main trail, which ascends the St. Mary's Valley to the Forks,
and follows the southwest fork to its source. To the Forks
the valley of the St. Mary's is open, and admits wagons.
24. Southwest Fork of St. Mary's River.--The road follows a
narrow trail, crossing the river frequently, and is not
passable for wagons. The valley is narrow, and shut in by
hills.
5-1/2. Kooskooskia River.--Road leaves the St. Mary's River, passing
over a high ridge to the Kooskooskia River.
10. Branch.--Road runs over wooded hills.
14. Creek.--Road runs over wooded hills.
9. Small Creek.--This is the best camp between the St. Mary's
River and the Nez Perces country.
15. Small Creek.--Road passes over wooded hills.
9. Small Branch.--Road passes over wooded hills, is very rough
and difficult. Poor camp.
14. Small Creek.--Ten miles from last camp the road passes a high
divide, ascending rapidly, though not difficult. Good grass
on the summit, but no water.
13. Small Creek.--Good camp where the trail emerges from the woods
on to the high plateau.
7. Clear Water River.--Large tributary. Road runs over high
table-land, and descends to the valley of the river.
43. Lapwai River.--The road follows a broad trail down the river
six miles, when it leaves the river bottom and ascends the
plateau, which extends to Craig's house, on the Lapwai,
fifteen miles from the river.
23. Tributary Snake River.--The trail runs over high ground from
Craig's to Lapwai River, 15 miles. This river is 450 feet
wide. No wood. Indians are generally found here, who ferry
over travelers. The trail follows Snake River for several
miles.
26-1/4. Tchannon River.--The trail passes 5-1/2 miles up the bottom
of a small creek; then runs over a steep hill to another
small creek, 8 miles; then along the valley of this stream
10-1/2 miles; thence over a high hill to camp on Tchannon
River, 3 miles.
11-1/2. Touchet River.--The trail crosses the Tchannon River, and
ascends to a high plain, which continues to camp.
32-1/2. Touchet River.--Road follows a good trail along the valley,
where good camps are found any where, with wood, water, and
grass.
19-1/2. Fort Wallah Wallah.--Leaving Touchet River, the trail passes
over again to the plains, when there is neither wood, water,
or grass to Fort Wallah Wallah.
Total distance from St. Paul's to Fort Union, 712-1/2 miles.
Total distance from Fort Union to Fort Benton, 377-1/2 "
Total distance from Fort Benton to Fort Owen, 255 "
Total distance from Fort Owen to Fort Wallah Wallah, 340-3/4 "
--------
Total distance from St. Paul's, Min., to
Fort Wallah Wallah, Oregon, 1685-3/4 miles.
* * * * *
XIX.--_Lieutenant_ E. F. BEALE'S _route from Albuquerque to the
Colorado River._
[Distances is miles and hundredths of a mile.]
Miles.
Albuquerque to
2.10. Atrisco.--Wood, water, and grass.
20.63. Rio Puerco.--Water in pools; wood and grass.
19.41. Near Puta.--Abundance of wood, water, and grass.
13.12. Covera.--Water and grass abundant; wood scarce.
13.06. Hay Camp.--Wood, water, and grass plenty.
25.37. Agua Frio.--Wood, water, and grass plenty.
16.28. Inscription Rock.--Small spring; grass and wood plenty.
16.32. Ojo del Pescado.--Water and grass plenty; wood for camp.
15.13. Zuni.--Grass and water plenty; wood scarce.
6.19. Indian Well.--Wood, water, and grass.
14.43. No. 1.--Wood and grass; no water.
11.93. Jacob's Well.--Wood, water, and grass.
6.57. No. 2, Navajo Spring.--Wood, water, and grass.
13.62. Noon Halt.--Water by digging; grass and wood scarce.
6.13. No. 3.--Grass abundant.
7.75. Noon Halt.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.
7.25. No. 4.--Water in holes; grass and fuel plenty.
3.60. Three Lakes.--Wood, water, and grass.
1.75. Crossing Puerco.--Wood, water, and grass abundant as far as
Leroux Spring.
11.25. No. 5.
18.50. No. 6.
10.17. No. 7.
13.25. No. 8.
19.35. Canon Diablo.
14.75. No. 10.
13.50. Near Cosnino Caves.
17.32. San Francisco Spring.
9.06. Leroux Spring.
8.48. No. 13.--Wood and grass, but no water.
11.13. Breckenridge Spring.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.
8.07. No. 14.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.
6.50. Cedar Spring.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.
10.50. No. 15.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.
19.75. Alexander's Canon.--Wood and grass plenty; not much water.
8.05. Smith's Spring.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.
8.75. Pass Dornin.--Wood and grass abundant; no water.
13.50. No. 19.--Wood and grass abundant; no water.
16.35. No. 20.--Water two miles from camp; wood and grass plenty.
4.06. Hemphill's Spring.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.
21.25. No. 21.--Wood, water, and grass abundant.
9.75. No. 22.--Wood and grass; spring one mile distant.
5.50. No. 23.--Wood and grass plenty; no water.
8.45. No. 24.--Wood and grass; spring three miles off.
16.75. No. 25.--Wood and grass; no water.
7.25. Sabadras Spring.--Wood, water, and grass.
13.25. No. 26.--Wood; no grass or water.
8.75. Spring.--Wood, water, and grass.
1.25. No. 27.--Wood, water, and grass.
3.17. No. 28.--Wood, water, and grass.
1.25. No. 29.--Wood, water, and grass.
3.11. No. 30.--Wood, water, and grass.
3.25. No. 31.--East bank of Colorado River; wood.
No. 32.--West bank; water and grass abundant.
* * * * *
XX.--_Captain_ WHIPPLE'S _Route from Albuquerque, New Mexico, to San
Pedro, California._
[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]
Miles.
Albuquerque to
0.88. Atrisco.--Permanent running water.
12.16. Isleta.--Permanent running water.
22.78. Rio Puerco.--Water in holes.
18.30. Rio Rita.--Permanent running water.
13.77. Covera.--Permanent running water.
14.66. Hay Camp.--Permanent running water.
17.71. Sierra Madre.--No water.
8.06. Agua Frio.--Permanent running water.
17.49. Inscription Rock.--El Moro. Permanent springs.
14.23. Ojo del Pescado.--Permanent springs.
11.74. Zuni.--Permanent running water.
[Illustration: SAN FRANCISCO MOUNTAIN.
Upon Captain Whipple's trail from Albuquerque to the Colorado River.]
8.83. Arch Spring.--Permanent spring.
10.77. ....--No water.
19.69. Jacob's Well.--Permanent water-hole.
7.04. Navajo Spring.--Permanent springs.
12.13. Willow Creek.--Rio de la Jara. Water in holes.
10.87. Rio Puerco of the West.--Water in holes.
11.59. Lithodendron Creek.--Permanent running water.
11.99. Colorado Chiquito.--Permanent running water.
14.42. Colorado Chiquito.--Permanent running water.
8.63. Colorado Chiquito.--Permanent running water.
4.94. Colorado Chiquito.--Permanent running water.
1.35. Colorado Chiquito.--Permanent running water.
4.90. Colorado Chiquito.--Permanent running water.
10.99. Colorado Chiquito.--Permanent running water.
15.88. Colorado Chiquito.--Permanent running water.
4.44. Colorado Chiquito.--Permanent running water.
1.51. Colorado Chiquito.--Permanent running water.
29.72. Colinino Caves.--Permanent water-holes.
11.81. Near San Francisco Spring.--No water; water 4 miles from
camp.
10.46. Leroux's Spring.--Permanent water.
8.23. ....--No water.
6.17. ....--No water.
8.54. New Year's Spring.--Permanent spring.
9.77. Lava Creek.--Water in hole.
9.89. Cedar Creek.--Water in holes.
13.26. Partridge Creek.--Water in holes.
3.89. Partridge Creek.--Water in holes.
13.52. Partridge Creek.--Water in holes.
0.87. Picacho Creek.--Water in holes.
7.45. ....--No water.
8.69. Turkey Creek.--Permanent running water.
5.71. Pueblo Creek.--Permanent running water.
6.67. Pueblo Creek.--Permanent water in holes.
5.98. Pueblo Creek.--Permanent water in holes.
5.80. Canon Creek.--Permanent water in holes.
12.16. Canon Creek.--Permanent water in holes.
0.30. Canon Creek.--Water in holes.
11.29. Canon Creek.--Water in holes.
9.64. Cactus Pass.--Permanent running water.
7.97. White Cliff Creek.--Permanent running water.
11.60. Big Horn Springs.--Permanent spring.
[Illustration: CANON ON BILL WILLIAMS'S FORK.]
12.83. Mouth of Canon Creek.--Permanent running water.
9.21. "Big Sandy" Creek.--Permanent running water.
4.35. "Big Sandy" Creek.--Permanent running water.
6.21. "Big Sandy" Creek.--Permanent running water.
4.08. "Big Sandy" Creek.--Permanent running water.
6.10. "Big Sandy" Creek.--Permanent running water.
5.56. "Big Sandy" Creek.--Permanent running water.
6.44. Mouth of Big Sandy Creek.--Permanent running water as far
as the Colorado River.
6.52. Rio Santa Maria.
8.97. Rio Santa Maria.
6.85. Rio Santa Maria.
7.22. Rio Santa Maria.
3.90. Rio Santa Maria.
8.69. Rio Santa Maria.
4.33. Mouth of Rio Santa Maria.
4.74. On Colorado River.
5.02. On Colorado River.
9.06. On Colorado River.
11.39. On Colorado River.
29.87. On Colorado River.
[Illustration: ARTILLERY PEAK.]
1.02. Mojave Villages.
9.46. Crossing of the Colorado River.
0.33. On Colorado River.
2.78. On Colorado River.
20.71. ....--The road, on leaving the Colorado, runs up over a
gravelly ridge to a barren niesa, and descends the bed of
the Mojave 4 or 5 miles above its mouth, and at 9-1/2 miles
it passes springs near the point where the road turns around
the western base of a mountain. There is no water at the
camp, but grass in an arroya.
9.00. Pai-Ute Creek.--This is a fine stream, with good water and
grass.
13.00. Arroyo.--Grass and wood; water is found by digging.
7.00. Fine Spring.--Good water and grass. The wagon-road passes
around the hills, but an Indian trail leads through the
ravine where the spring is.
19.00. Marl Spring.--This is a small but constant spring; excellent
grass, and greasewood for fuel.
30.00. Lake.--The road follows a ridge for some distance, then
descends to an arroyo, and in a few miles emerges into a
sandy plain, where there is the dry bed of a lake, which is
firm, and makes a smooth, good road. The camp is at some
marshy pools of water. Good grass, and greasewood for fuel.
12.00. Mojave River.--Road passes through a valley of drifted sand,
and at the camp strikes the river, which is here a beautiful
stream of fresh water, 10 to 12 feet wide and a foot deep,
with a hard, gravelly bottom. Grass in the hills near.
13.00. Mojave River.--The road ascends the river, the banks of which
are covered with fine grass and mesquite wood. Good camps
along here.
20.00. Mojave River.--The road leads up the river for a short
distance, when it turns into an arroyo, and ascends to a low
mesa, and continues along the border of a level prairie
covered with fine bunch-grass. It then enters the river
bottom again, which is here several miles wide, and well
wooded. Grass good.
20.00. Mojave River.--Six miles from camp the road strikes the Mormon
road, and crosses the stream near a Mormon camping-place. The
trail runs along the river, which gets larger and has more
timber on its banks as it is ascended. Good grass, wood, and
water.
22.00. Mojave River.--A short distance from camp the valley contracts,
but the road is good. It leaves the valley and crosses a
gravelly ridge, but enters it again. Good grass, wood, and
water.
15.00. Mojave River.--Road continues along the right bank of the
river, in a southwest course, and crosses the river at camp.
Good wood, water, and grass.
29.50. Cajou Creek.--The road leaves the river at the crossing, and
runs toward a break in the San Bernadino Mountains; it
ascends a sharp hill and enters a cedar thicket; it then
ascends to the summit of the Cajou Pass; thence over a spur
of the mountains into an arroyo or creek in a ravine; thence
along the dry channel of the Cajou Creek for two miles, where
the water begins to run, and from thence the road is rough to
camp.
7.00. Cajou Creek.--Road continues along the creek to camp, and is
rough. Wood, water, and grass at camp.
20.00. Cocomouga's Ranch.--On a pretty stream of running water. The
road runs for six miles down the Cajou Creek, along its steep
and rocky bed. It is here a good-sized stream. Captain
Whipple's road here leaves the San Bernadino road, and turns
to the west along the base of the mountains toward Los
Angeles; it then crosses a prairie and strikes the ranch of
Cocomouga. Wood, water, and grass.
24.00. Town of El Monte.--The road runs upon the northern border of
a basin which is watered by many small streams, and is
settled. The camp is on the pretty stream of San Gabriel,
where there is a good camping-place.
14.25. City of Los Angeles.--The road passes the Mission of San
Gabriel, then enters a ravine among hills and broken ground;
it then descends and crosses the river which waters the
valley, and enters the city. There is a good camp upon the
point of a ridge on the left bank of the river.
23.00. San Pedro.--Good camp.
* * * * *
XXI.--_From Fort Yuma to Benicia, California._ From Lieutenant R. S.
WILLIAMSON'S Report.
[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]
Miles.
Fort Yuma, on Rio Colorado, to
6.51. Pilot Knob.
5.06. Algodones.
11.18. Cook's Wells.
21.11. Alamo Mocho.
14.16. Little Laguna.
10.29. Big Laguna.
12.92. Forks of Road.--The left-hand road leads to San Diego,
139.94 miles, the right-hand to San Francisco.
17.62. Salt Creek.
28.94. Water in the Desert.--Below point of rocks.
12.60. Cohuilla Village.
15.82. Deep Well.
10.62. Hot Spring.
7.36. East base of San Gorgonio Pass.
18.29. Summit of Pass.
27.10. San Bernadino.--Mormon town.
17.60. Sycamore Grove.
14.00. Qui-qual-mun-go Ranch.
26.60. San Gabriel River.--At crossing.
6.70. Mission of San Gabriel.
9.00. Los Angeles.
10.20. Cahuengo Ranch.--At the crossing of a branch of Los
Angeles River.
10.70. Mission of San Fernando.
5.90. Summit of San Fernando Pass.
7.15. Santa Clara River, southeast fork.
15.80. Summit of Coast Range.--In San Francisquito Pass.
18.00. Eastern base of Sierra Nevada.
6.70. Summit of Tejon Pass.
13.10. Depot Camp in the Tejon.
31.00. Kern River.--At the crossing.
10.80. Depot Camp on Pose Creek, or "O-co-ya."
24.30. White Creek.
14.90. More's Creek.
5.10. Tule River.
22.00. Deep Creek.--Deep Creek is the first of four creeks, crossed
by the wagon-road, into which the "Pi-pi-yu-na" divides
itself after emerging from the Sierra. These streams are
commonly known as the "Four Creeks."
0.29. Cameron Creek.--The second of the "Four Creeks."
3.30. Kah-wee-ya River.--The third and principal one of the "Four
Creeks."
0.89. St. John's Creek.--The last of the "Four Creeks." At the
crossing.
28.13. Pool's Ferry.--On King's River.
12.32. Slough of King's River.
25.73. Fort Miller.--On San Joaquin River, in the foot-hills of the
Sierra Nevada.
9.40. Cottonwood Creek.
7.72. Fresno River.
12.15. Chowchilla River.--Sometimes known as "Big Mariposa."
10.39. Mariposa River.
6.03. Bear Creek.
18.33. Merced River.
18.87. Davis's Ferry.--Tuolumne River.
28.85. Grayson.--A ferry on the San Joaquin River.
27.54. Elk Horn.--The distance is by the wagon-road, and is
circuitous.
6.90. Summit of Livermore Pass.
7.20. Egress from Livermore Pass.
40.42. Martinez.--On the Straits of Carquives, opposite Benicia,
California.
Total distance from Fort Yuma to Benicia, 800.45 miles.
* * * * *
XXII.--_A new route from Fort Bridger to Camp Floyd, opened by
Captain_ J. H. SIMPSON, U.S.A., _in_ 1858.
Miles.
Fort Bridger to
6. Branch of Black's Fork.--Wood, water, and grass.
7-1/4. Cedar on Bluffs of Muddy.--Grass and wood all the way up the
ravine from the Muddy, and water at intervals.
5-1/2. Last water in ravine after leaving the Muddy.--Wood, water,
and grass.
5-3/4. East Branch of Sulphur Creek.--Wood, water, and grass. Junction
of Fort Supply road.
1/2. Middle Branch of Sulphur Creek.--Sage, Water, and grass.
3. West Branch of Sulphur Creek.--Willow, water, and grass;
spring a mile below.
5-1/4. East Branch of Bear River.--Wood, water, and grass.
1/4. Middle Branch of Bear River.--Wood, water, and grass.
2-3/4. Main Branch of Bear River.--Wood, water, and grass.
9-3/4. First Camp on White Clay Creek.--Wood, water, and grass.
5-1/4. White Clay Creek.--Wood, water, and grass.
15. White Clay Creek.--Good camps all along the valley of White
Clay Creek.
3/4. Commencement of Canon.--Wood, water, and grass.
1/2. White Clay Creek.--Good camps all along the valley of White
Clay Creek to the end of the lower canon.
12. Weber River.--Wood, water, and grass.
6. Parley's Park Road.--Wood, water, and grass. Pass over the
divide.
3-3/4. Silver Creek.--Willows, water, and grass.
6. Timpanogos Creek.--Wood, water, and grass. Cross over the
divide.
1. Commencement of Canon.--Wood, water, and grass.
24-1/2. Cascade in Canon.--Good camps at short intervals all along
Timpanogos Canon.
4-1/4. Mouth of Canon.--Wood and water.
6-1/4. Battle Creek Settlement.--Purchase forage.
3-1/4. American Fork Settlement.--Purchase forage.
3. Lehi (town).--Purchase forage. Grass near.
2-3/4. Bridge over Jordan.--Grass and water; wood in the hills
1-1/2 miles distant.
14. Camp Floyd.--Wood, water, and grass.
Total distance from Fort Bridger to Camp Floyd, 155 miles.
NOTE.--Captain Simpson says this wagon-route is far superior to the old
one in respect to grade, wood, water, and grass, and in distance about
the same.
* * * * *
XXIII.--_From Fort Thorne, New Mexico, to Fort Yuma, California._
[Distances in miles and hundredths of a mile.]
Miles.
Fort Thorne, N.M., to
14.30. Water Holes.--One mile west of hole in rock. Water uncertain;
no wood.
9.19. Mule Creek.---Water at all seasons a little up the creek;
wood plenty.
12.00. Cook's Spring.--Water sufficient for camping; mesquite
bushes on the hills.
19.50. Rio Mimbres.--Water and wood abundant.
16.30. Ojo de la Vaca.--Water and wood.
12.00. Spring.--Constant small streams two miles up the canon;
water at the road uncertain.
44.40. Rancho.--Pond of brackish water one mile to the right, four
miles before reaching here.
13.90. Rio St. Simon.--Constant water a few miles up, and mesquite
wood.
18.40. Pass in the Mountains.--Water on the left about two miles
after entering the Pass.
6.40. Arroya.--Wood one mile up; water uncertain; small stream
crossing the road 1-1/2 miles from last camp.
26.30. Nugent's Spring.--Large spring.--Excellent water one mile
south, at Playa St. Domingo.
17.20. Canon.--To the left of the road. Water 1-1/2 miles up the
canon, two miles from the road.
17.00. Rio San Pedro.--Water and wood abundant.
16.30. San Pedro.--Water abundant; wood distant.
20.80. Cienequilla.--Water and wood abundant.
7.30. Along Cienequilla.--Water and wood abundant; road rough.
21.80. Mission of San Xavier.--Large mesquite, and water plenty in
Santa Cruz River.
8.00. Tucson.--Village on Santa Cruz River. Tucson is the last
green spot on the Santa Cruz River. The best camping-ground
is two miles beyond the village, where the valley widens,
and good grass and water are abundant.
7.20. Mud Holes.--The road passes over arroyas, but is rather level.
65.00. Agua Hermal.--Road passes over a desert section, and is hard
and level. Water is found in most seasons, except in early
summer, in natural reservoirs on an isolated mountain about
midway, called "Picapo;" poor water and tall, coarse grass
at the mud-holes. Road here strikes the Rio Gila.
15.10. Los Pimos.--Road follows the river bottom. Lagoon of bad
water near camp. Grass good; plenty of cottonwood and
mesquite.
13.20. Los Maricopas.--Road takes the river bottom, and passes
through cultivated fields; soil and grass good. The Indian
village is on a gravelly hill. The road is good.
40.00. El Tegotal.--The road leaves the river and crosses the
desert. No water between this and the last camp at the
Maricopas' village. Road is good. The calita abounds here,
and the mules are fond of it.
10.50. Pega del Rio.--Road runs in the river bottom, and is level.
Rincon de Vega.--Road runs in the river bottom, and is level.
Good grass.
10.50. Mal Pais.--Road continues near the river, but over low
gravel-hills and through a short canon of deep sand.
9.50. Mil Flores.--Pass over a very steep precipice to an elevated
plateau, thence over gravel-hills 4-1/2 miles to camp, where
there is excellent grass and wood.
13.70. Santado.--Road keeps the river bottom until within four
miles of camp, when it turns over the plateau. Good grass.
16.70. Las Lonas.--Road follows the river bottom. Scattered
bunch-grass on the hills.
11.40. Vegas.--Road follows along the river bottom. Grass poor.
16.80. Metate.--Road runs along at the foot of a rugged mountain.
Excellent grass at the camp.
14.70. El Horral.--Road ascends to the plateau, which it follows
for seven miles over a level country, then descends over
gravelly hills to the river. Camp on the river bank near the
desert. Wood plenty.
20.80. Los Algodones.--Road runs along at the foot of the hills or
spurs of the desert; small rugged hills, vegetation dwarf
mesquit, cacti, etc. Good grass at camp.
7.40. Fort Yuma, on the Rio Colorado.
Total distance from Fort Thorne, N.M., to Fort Yuma, 571 miles.
* * * * *
XXIV.--_Lieutenant_ BRYAN'S _Route from the Laramie Crossing of the
South Platte to Fort Bridger_, via _Bridger's Pass._
Miles.
Laramie Crossing to
14. Bryan's Crossing.--Road runs on the south side of the Platte.
Good grass and water.
12. First Crossing of Pole Creek.--Pole Creek is a rapid stream,
sandy bed, 15 feet wide, and two feet deep. Good grass on the
creek, and wood three miles off on the bluffs.
37. Second Crossing of Pole Creek.--Road runs along the creek.
Good grass and good camps at any point. Good road.
17-1/4. Third Crossing of Pole Creek.--Good camp. Wood on the bluffs.
20-1/2. Fourth Crossing of Pole Creek.--Creek dry for three miles.
Good grass.
20-1/4. Bluffs covered with dead pines.--Creek is crossed several
times. Road runs over a rough, broken country. Good grass.
14-1/2. Road from Fort Laramie to New Mexico.--Road rather rough.
The valley opens out into a wide plain. Plenty of grass.
10-1/2. On Pole Creek.--Good road; good camp.
20. On Pole Creek.--Road crosses several ravines, most of which
can be avoided by keeping on the bluffs; the valley is narrow.
Grass not very good.
17-1/2. Cheyenne Pass.--Road passes over a rolling country. Good
grass; willows for fuel. Military post established here.
14-1/2. Summit of Black Hills.--Source of Pole Creek. Grass poor.
10-1/4. East Fork of Laramie River.--Good camp.
16. West Fork of Laramie River.--Good camp. Cherokee trail comes
in here.
14. Cooper's Creek.--Wood and grass.
10-1/2. East Fork of Medicine Bow Creek.--Wood and grass as far as
Pass Creek.
2-1/2. Small Creek.
6. Birch Creek.
5-1/4. West Fork of Medicine Bow Creek.
2. Flint's Creek.
3. Elm Creek.
7. Rattlesnake Creek.
5. Pass Creek.
14-1/2. North Fork of the Platte.--Good road over high prairie. Five
miles before reaching the river the Cherokee trail turns to
the left, and crosses three miles above. Good camps on the
river.
3-1/2. First Crossing of Sage Creek.--Good road. Grass not plenty.
10-1/2. Second Crossing of Sage Creek.--Road runs through Sage Creek
Valley; hilly, broken, and sterile country, covered with
sage-brush. Grass not abundant. Cherokee trail leaves three
miles back.
4. Third Crossing of Sage Creek.--Road continues through
sage-brush. Grass gets better.
3. Fourth Crossing of Sage Creek.--Good grass, wood, and water.
9. Bridger's Pass.--Road runs over a hilly country, crossing
several small branches, with a little grass upon their banks;
country covered with sage.
3-1/2. Muddy Creek.--The valley of the "Muddy" is deep and narrow
at first, and afterward opens out. The crossings of this
creek were either bridged or paved by the troops in 1858.
But little grass in this valley.
20-1/2. Near Muddy Creek.--Very little grass; poor camp.
16-1/2. Bridger's Fork of the Muddy Creek.--The road for thirteen
miles runs over a rolling country, then over a rough, broken
country, with deep ravines. No water in this fork in a dry
season; small springs of brackish water near the crossing.
Grass poor.
4. Small Spring.--Water bad; grass poor.
2-1/2. Small Spring.--In the bluff. Water bad; grass poor.
1. Haystack.--Clay butte. Spring in the dry bed of the creek.
Bunch-grass.
5-1/2. Small Springs.--In bluffs on the right of the road. Grass
poor and water bad.
7-1/2. Springs.--There is a fine spring at the foot of a steep hill
on the south side of the road. Very little grass; rushes on
the creek.
3-1/2. South Fork of Bitter Creek.--Good grass and water.
14-3/4. On Bitter Creek.--Country hilly, and intersected with deep
ravines. South Fork is a fine stream of good water.
16. Sulphur Springs.--Road very hilly, crossing many deep ravines.
Grass and sage plenty.
9. Bitter Creek Crossing.--No grass at the crossing. Water bitter
when the creek is down, but tolerable in high water. Road rough,
with numerous ravines.
18-1/2. North Fork of Bitter Creek.--Cherokee trail enters near the
crossing. Road good, but little grass except in spots. Sage
for fuel.
4. Bluffs.--Springs of good water in the elevated bluffs on the
right of the road in the cottonwood groves. Grass good and
abundant at the base of the bluffs.
11-3/4. Green River.--Road is very rough and hilly, and winds along
the valley of the creek. Good camp on the river, with plenty
of wood and grass.
15-3/4. Crossing of Black's Fork.--Road runs up through Rabbit Hollow,
which is steep and sandy; it then passes over rolling prairie
to Black's Fork. Bunch-grass on the hills, and good camp at
the crossing.
11-1/4. Fort Laramie Road.--Rolling country; good road through sage
bushes. Good camps along the creek.
5-3/4. Ham's Fork.--Good camp on either side of the creek. United
States bridge here; good road.
3/4. Black's Fork Crossing.--Good ford except in high water, when
the right-hand road on the north bank of the creek is generally
traveled.
14-1/2. Fourth Crossing of Black's Fork.--Good road; fine camp; plenty
of wood, water, and grass.
2-3/4. Fifth Crossing of Black's Fork.--Good camp; good road.
2-3/4. Smith's Fork.--Good camp; good road.
11-3/4. Fort Bridger.--Good camp near; good road.
Total distance from the Laramie Crossing of the South Platte to Fort
Bridger, 520-1/2 miles. By the Fort Laramie road the distance is 569
miles.
* * * * *
XXV.--_Wagon-route from Denver City, at the Mouth of Cherry Creek,
to Fort Bridger, Utah._
Miles.
Denver City to
5. Vasquez Fork.--Good road and fine camp.
19-1/2. Thompson's Fork.--Road crosses three creeks about five miles
apart, is good, and the camp is well supplied with water
and grass, but wood is scarce.
16-1/2. Bent's Fork.--Road crosses two streams about five miles
apart; no wood on the first. Good camp.
26. Cashe la Poudre River.--Excellent road crossing two streams
at ten and twenty-three miles from the last camp; good
camps on both. Cashe la Poudre is a fine large stream which
issues from the mountains near the road, and is difficult
to cross in high water. It has a firm bottom. Good camps
along this stream, with plenty of wood and grass.
16. Beaver Creek.--Road turns to the left and enters the hills,
ascending very gradually between two lines of bluffs, and
is good except in wet weather. Good camp.
19. Small Branch.--Road crosses Beaver Creek three times,
affording good camps. Road is hilly, but not very rough,
passing for a portion of the distance through a timbered
region. Elk and mountain sheep are abundant in this
section. The camp is near the summit of the divide. Grass
short.
17-1/2. Tributary of Laramie River.--Good road on the divide. Grass
and water plenty, but wood not abundant.
18-1/2. Tributary of Laramie River.--Road passes Laramie Fork three
miles from the last camp. Good camp.
21. Tributary of Laramie River.--Road crosses a small creek at
14 miles from last camp. Fine camp.
17. Medicine Bow Creek.--At twelve miles the road crosses
Sulphur Spring Creek, and at the West Fork of the Laramie
Lieutenant Bryan's road enters. At ten miles from the last
camp there are two roads--one, Bryan's, leading north of
the Medicine Bow Butte, and the other to the south of it.
The former is the best. Good camp.
17-1/2. Prairie Creek.--Fine camp. A portion of the road is very
rough. It crosses several small branches upon which good
camps may be had. Fine game section, with bear, elk, etc.,
in great abundance.
12-1/2. North Fork of the Platte.--Excellent camp. Leave Bryan's
road four miles back, taking the left, which is altogether
the best of the two. The crossing of the Platte is good
except in high water, when it is very rapid. A flat-boat
was left here by Colonel Loring's command in 1858.
12-1/2. Clear Creek.--Sage for fuel; grass short.
23. Dry Creek.--Road leaves Bryan's trail to Bridger's Pass,
and bears to the right, passing over a smooth country
covered with sage and poorly watered; passes a pond of
milky water at thirteen miles. There is water in Dry Creek
except in a very dry season. Two miles from the creek, on
the old trail, there is a fine spring on the left of the
road, which runs down into the road, and here is the best
grass after leaving the Platte, with plenty of fuel.
10-1/2. Muddy Creek.--Road leaves the old Cherokee trail at Dry
Creek, and bears to the left. Good camp for a limited
number of animals; fine grass along near the bank of the
creek. Bad crossing. Buffalo seen here.
19-1/2. Lake.--Old trail enters near this camp. Road passes a
brackish spring four miles back. The road may be shortened
by bearing to the left and skirting the hills for about six
miles before reaching the lake. The water in the lake is
not good, but drinkable, and will be abundant except in the
very dryest part of the summer. Grass is good on the hills.
The road from Dry Creek is shorter than the old road by 30
miles.
24-1/2. Red Lakes.--Road is good, but traverses a very dry and
sterile region. The water is not good in the lakes, but
drinkable, and may go dry in midsummer. Grass tolerable.
22. Seminoes Spring.--After passing the flats at the Red Lakes
the road is smooth and good, and there is a good camp at
Seminoes Spring.
12-1/2. Bitter Creek.--New road to the left, cutting off ten or
twelve miles. Good camp; water a little saline, but drinkable.
25. Sulphur Spring.--Road runs along the valley of Bitter Creek,
where there is but little grass until reaching camp.
Animals should be driven across the creek into the hills,
where the best grass is found.
17. Green River.--Road leaves Bitter Creek at Sulphur Spring,
and passes near, some high bluffs, where there are small
springs and good grass. Excellent camp at Green River. From
here the road runs over the same track as Bryan's road to
Fort Bridger. From all the information I have been able to
obtain regarding Lieutenant Bryan's road from Sage Creek
through Bridger's Pass, and thence down the Muddy Creek, I
am inclined to believe that the road we traveled is much
the best. It is said that Lieutenant Bryan's route from
Bridger's Pass to Green River has a scarcity of grass. The
water is brackish, and the supply limited, and may fail
altogether in a dry season. The road passes through deep
valleys and canons, crossing muddy creeks and deep ravines.
The creeks have been bridged and the ravines cut down so as
to form a practicable road; but freshets will probably
occur in the spring, which will destroy a great deal of the
work, and may render the road impassable.--_Lieutenant
Duane's Notes._
The other road is for the greater part of the distance
smooth, and has a sufficiency of grass in places, but the
water may become scarce in a very dry season.
* * * * *
XXVI.--_From Nebraska City, on the Missouri, to Fort Kearney._
Nebraska City, on the Missouri River, is a point from whence a large
amount of the supplies for the army in Utah are sent, and one of the
contractors, Mr. Alexander Majors, speaks of this route in the
following terms: "The military road from Fort Leavenworth crosses very
many tributaries of the Kansas River, the Soldier, the Grasshopper,
etc., etc., which are at all times difficult of passage. There are no
bridges, or but few, and those of but little service. From Nebraska
City to Fort Kearney, which is a fixed point for the junction of all
roads passing up the Platte, we have but one stream of any moment to
cross. That one is Salt Creek, a stream which is now paved at a
shallow ford with solid rock.
"There is no other stream which, even in a high freshet, would stop a
train a single day. Again, upon this route we have an abundance of
good grazing every foot of the way to Fort Kearney. The route from
Nebraska City is about 100 miles shorter to Fort Kearney than that
from Fort Leavenworth, the former being less than 200 miles and the
latter about 300 miles."
From Nebraska City to Salt Creek is...... 40 miles.
From Salt Creek to Elm Creek is.......... 60 "
From Elm Creek to Fort Kearney is........ 100 "
Upon the entire route there is an abundance of wood, water, and grass,
and camping-places frequent.
* * * * *
XXVII.--_From Camp Floyd, Utah, to Fort Union, New Mexico._ By
Colonel W. W. LORING, U.S.A.
Miles.
Camp Floyd to
23. Goshen.--The road runs through Cedar Valley; is level and
good for 11 miles, to where the road forks. The left runs
near the lake, and has good camps upon it. Thence to a fine
spring, where there is a good camp, is 3 miles. Grass
continues good to the camp near Goshen. Wood, water, and
grass abundant.
14. Salt Creek.--Road runs over a mountain in a direct course to
a fine spring branch, which runs into Salt Creek at 3-1/2
miles, where is a good camp; thence through a meadow to a
small branch 3 miles, striking the old Mormon road again
opposite a mud fort, where there is a fine spring and good
camp; thence into the valley of Salt Creek, where there are
good camps.
18. Pleasant Creek.--Near the last camp the road forks, one
running to Nephi, a small Mormon village, the other to Salt
Creek Canon, which is the one to be taken. The road runs up
the canon 5 miles; thence up its small right-hand fork to a
spring, 3 miles; thence to camp. Good camps can be found any
where after crossing Salt Creek, with abundance of wood,
water, and grass.
19-1/2. Willow Creek.--Road at 6-1/2 miles passes a fine spring;
half a mile farther is another spring, where the road forks.
Take the right through a meadow; it is 3 or 4 miles shorter.
To the crossing is 3 miles; thence to the main road again 3
miles; to the village of Ephraim 5 miles. Good camp.
12. Lediniquint Creek.--At 6 miles pass Manti; thence to Salt
and Sulphur Springs is 3 miles. Good camp, with a fine
spring, wood, and grass.
15. Lediniquint Creek.--Road passes over a rugged country for 4
miles, to a creek; thence one mile it crosses another creek;
thence 2-1/2 miles up the creek, where there is a good camp.
The road improves, and for 8 or 9 miles camps can be found
by leaving the creek a short distance. The creek on which
the camp is muddy, with narrow channel.
18. Onapah Creek, or Salt Creek.--Road is good over a barren
country to the pointed red hills near the entrance to
Wasatch Pass, 7 miles. From the red hills cross Salt Creek 3
times in 4 miles; grass fair at 2d crossing; very good at 3d
crossing, and a good camp. Road rough for 3 miles after
leaving the creek. The road then enters a fine valley, with
plenty of blue and bunch grass. Road is level to within a
mile of the camp. Wood, water, and grass abundant at camp.
7-1/2. Head of Branch of Salt Creek.--Road runs over a ridge at
2 miles, thence one mile to a small branch. Grass abundant.
Road runs along the branch 3 miles; in places very rough,
with some sand; ascends the entire distance, and the camp is
very elevated. Good spring at camp.
5-3/4. Salt Creek.--Road passes over a ridge 2-1/2 miles to a
spring. Good camp at this spring. Colonel Loring worked the
road at this place. It crosses the creek 6 times within the
5-3/4 miles. Good camp, with abundance of wood, water, and
grass.
6-1/2. Silver Creek.--Road traverses a rolling section, is good,
passes several springs where there are good camps, and
crosses several trails which lead from California to New
Mexico.
17-1/2. Media Creek.--At two miles the road passes the dividing
ridge between the waters of Salt Lake and Green River;
thence two miles' descent to Shipley Creek, where is a good
camp. For about a mile the road is rough, but then descends
into an open plain where the road is good. The ground is
rough about the camp, and covered with sage and greasewood.
Two miles up the creek, near the canon, is some grass, but
it is not abundant here.
19-3/4. St. Raphael Creek.--Road passes a rolling section for 5
miles; thence 1-1/2 mile to Garamboyer Creek, where there is
a good camp; thence, with the exception of a short distance,
the road is good to the Knobs, 9 miles, when it is broken
for 4-1/2 miles. Good camp.
11-3/4. San Matio Creek.--For 3 miles the road is over a rolling
section, with steep hills, to a creek, where is a good camp;
thence, for 3 miles along the creek, soft soil and heavy
road; thence 5 miles to another creek, some grass, but not
plenty; thence to camp the road is rough in places. Good
camp.
14-1/4. In the Hills.--Road runs over a rolling country 2-1/2
miles to San Marcos, or Tanoje Creek, where there is good
grass and water, with sage. Two miles farther over a
gravelly road, then a good plain road for 9-3/4 miles to
camp. Good wood, water, and grass.
23. Spring.--Road for the first ten miles is rocky, when it
strikes a spring, where there is a good camp; thence 2 miles
to water in a tank, not permanent; thence the road is on a
ridge for 6 miles, and is good; thence 3 miles the road is
sandy. The spring at camp is large, with plenty of wood, but
the grass is scarce. Down the creek it is more abundant.
18. Green River.--For 5 miles the road is sandy; thence the road
is good for the remainder of the distance to camp, where
there is plenty of wood, water, and grass.
13. 13-Mile Spring.--Green River can be forded at ordinary
stages. Road runs among several arroyas for a few miles, and
is then straight and good to camp. Good grass a mile to the
east of camp.
An Arroya.--Road runs between two rocky buttes, and strikes
the Mormon trail, which leaves Green River at the same
place, but is very tortuous. Water not permanent here; good
grass three fourths of a mile from camp.
20-1/4. Cottonwood Creek.--Road passes over a broken country to a
water-hole, 9 miles; grass abundant; thence there is sand
in places: crosses several arroyas. Camp is between two
mountains. Wood, water, and grass abundant.
12. Grand River.--Road is over a rolling country; in places
light sand and heavy for wagons. Good camp.
13. Grand River.--Road is rolling and sandy. The Mormon road
runs nearer the mountains, and Colonel Loring thinks it is
better than the one he traveled. Good camp.
16-3/4. 1-1/2 mile from Grand River.--The first 3 miles is level,
then the road passes over a very elevated ridge, and
descends into the valley. Grand River runs through a canon,
and can not be reached with the animals. Road in places
sandy. Good camp.
9-1/2. Grand River.--At two miles strike Salt Creek, where the
Mormon road passes up a dry creek toward Gray Mountain. Road
skirts the mountains along Grand River, and is rough in
places, passing over abrupt hills. Good camp.
16-3/4. Grand River.--Road runs over a level and firm section, with
good camps at any point along the river. Cross the Mormon
and other trails. Good ford at the crossing except in high
water. Good camp.
18-1/2. On an Arroya.--Road runs over an undulating surface, crossing
several small streams issuing from Elk Mountain, affording
good camps at almost any place, and strikes Marcy's and
Gunnison's trails. Good camp.
15-1/4. Grand River.--Rolling country; high ridges with abrupt slopes
for 6-1/4 miles; thence into a plain for 7-1/4 miles to
Double Creek. Good camps.
12. Oncompagre River.--Good ford except in high water. At 6 miles
cross a dry creek; thence 3 miles over a high, level, and
firm road; strike a large trail; descend a hill with gentle
slope into the Valley of Oncompagre, where there are fine
camps. Winter resort for Ute Indians.
14-1/2. Oncompagre River.--Road runs along the valley of the
Oncompagre, is good, and camps may be found at any point,
with plenty of wood, water, and grass.
13. Cedar Creek.--Road leaves the Oncompagre, and bears to the
east up Cedar Creek to the gap in the mountains, 6 miles;
thence up the valley of Cedar Creek to camp, where are wood,
water, and grass. The Gap is the first opening in the
mountains above the mouth of the Oncompagre.
8-3/4. Devil's Creek.--Road runs to the head of Cedar Creek, over
the divide, into the valley of Devil's Creek, and is rough,
with a steep descent. Camp is near a narrow canon called
Devil's Gate, with high perpendicular bluffs. Good camp.
3. North Fork of Devil's Creek.--Road very rocky, and worked by
Colonel Loring. Marcy's and Gunnison's trails pass here. Good
camp.
7-3/4. Cebola Creek.--Road passes over abrupt hills covered with
pine. Good camp.
5-1/2. Ruidos Creek.--Road rough, with abrupt ascents and descents.
Fine creek 5 feet wide, and good camp.
13. Grand River.--Road rather smooth for the first 3 miles, then
rough and rocky, crossing several creeks, and descending
into the valley of the Grand or Eagle-tail River, where is a
good camp. Plenty of brook trout in all the streams in this
section.
14-1/2. Grand River.--Road crosses the river three times; bottom
wide; grass and wood abundant. Cross several beautiful
streams, upon which are good camps. Some sand and rough
places, but generally good road. Game and brook trout
abundant in this region. Indians resort to this section a
great deal.
18. Cutebetope Creek.--At about 5 miles the Cutebetope Creek
enters, forming at the confluence a beautiful valley, which
the road crosses, and strikes the creek near the Point of
Rocks, where the valley is only 40 yards wide, but after
passing the Point it opens again. The course of the creek is
nearly north. Good camps.
20. Spring near Beaver Creek.--Road crosses several small creeks,
where are good camping-places. Good camp.
16-3/4. Sawatch Creek.--Road runs over a very rough and mountainous
section for 14 miles to the summit of the Rocky Mountains;
thence it descends to camp, where grass, wood, and water are
abundant.
21-1/2. Sawatch Creek.--Road rough and rocky in places; strikes the
main Sawatch Creek at 9-1/2 miles; crosses numerous small
branches, where are grass, wood, and good water in abundance.
25-1/2. Camero Creek.--Road for 7 miles, to Sawatch Buttes, is good;
thence 1-1/2 mile to the last crossing of the Sawatch, where
is a good camping-place. Good camp at Camero Creek.
3-1/2. Garita Creek.--Good road and good camp.
16-1/2. Rio Grande.--Road level and good. Good camps along the
river at almost any point.
6. Rio Grande.--Good road and camp.
17-1/2. Fort Garland, Hay Camp.--Road continues down the river, and
is good. For six miles there is timber, but after this
willow is the only wood to camp. Good road. Hay is cut at
this place for Forts Massachusetts and Garland.
16. Culebra Creek.--At 4-3/4 miles cross Trinchera Creek, where
is a good camp. Road rather sandy. Good camps any where on
Culebra Creek.
24-3/4. Latos Creek.--Road tolerable to Costilla Creek, 10-3/4
miles. Good camp.
14. Ascequia, near Lama Creek.--Road crosses several small
branches. At 9-1/2 miles strike Red River. Grass at camp
good, but not abundant.
19-3/4. Meadow near Indian Puebla.--At 6 miles the road crosses
the San Christobal; thence over another ridge into the valley
of the Rio Hondo. Camp 2 miles from Taos.
2. Taos, New Mexico.--Good road. At Taos are several stores,
where goods of all descriptions can be had at fair prices.
13. Taos Creek Canon.--Road passes through the settlement, where
grain and vegetables can be obtained. It then enters the Taos
Canon at 3 miles, and crosses the Canon Creek frequently to
camp. Good camp.
29. Gaudelapepita.--At 5 miles the road ascends to the dividing
ridge, and is tolerable; thence in 4 miles cross the
mountain, and reach a fine spring branch, where is a fine
camp. Thence the road passes short ridges for 9 miles to
Black Lake. Good camp.
Fort Union.--Road follows Coyote Canon 3 miles; thence one
mile to Mexican settlement; thence 19-1/2 miles over the
prairie to the fort.
* * * * *
Colonel Loring came over the route from Camp Floyd to Fort Union with
a large train of wagons. He, however, found the road in many places
upon the mountains very rough, and it will require working before it
will be suitable for general travel with loaded wagons. It is an
excellent route for summer travel with pack trains, and is well
supplied with the requisites for encamping.
From Fort Union to Fort Garland the road passes through a settled
country, where supplies of grain and vegetables can at all times be
purchased at reasonable prices, and there are small towns met with
during almost every day's march where small shops supply such articles
of merchandise as the traveler needs.
* * * * *
XXVIII.--_Wagon-route from Guaymas, New Mexico, to Tubac, Arizona._
From Captain STONE'S Journal.
Miles.
Guaymas to
10-1/4. Rancho del Cavallo.--Good wood, water, and grass.
9. Rancho de la Noche Buena.--Good wood and grass, but no water
for animals in May and June.
19-5/8. Rancho de la Cuneguinta.--Good wood, water, and grass the
year round; water in tanks and wells.
15-3/4. Rancho del Posito.--Good wood and grass the year round;
water for men at all times, and for animals except in the
months of May and June.
8. Rancho de la Palma.--Wood, water, and grass at all times.
16-3/8. Rancho de la Paza.--Good wood, water, and grass at all
seasons.
16. Hermosillo.--This is a town of 10,000 inhabitants, on Sonora
River, where all supplies may be procured.
13. Hacienda de Alamito.--Plenty of running water, wood, grass,
and grain.
8. Hacienda de la Labor.--Plenty of running water, grass, and
grain.
28. Rancho de Tabique.--Roughest part of the road, but not
difficult for wagons. Wood, water, and grass. From
Hermosillo to this place there is water at short intervals
along the road.
36. Rancho Querebabi.--Wood and grass; water in tanks.
12. Barajita.--Small mining village. Bad water; good wood and
grass.
13. Santa Ana.--Village on the River San Ignacio. Plenty of
wood, water, and grass.
12. La Magdalena.--Thriving town, where all supplies can be
procured.
5. San Ignacio.--Village on the river. Good wood, water, and
grass.
6-3/4. Imuris.--Village on the river. Wood, water, and grass.
11-1/2. Los Alisos Rancho.--Wood, water, and grass.
3-1/2. La Casita.--Wood, water, and grass.
3-1/2. Cibuta.--Wood, water, and grass.
11-1/4. Agua Zarca.--Wood, water, and grass.
23-1/4. Rancho de las Calabasas.--Wood, water, and grass.
13. Tubac.--Silver mines at this place.
Total distance from Guaymas to Tubac, 295 miles.
NOTE.--During the months of July, August, and September, water will be
found at almost any part of the road from La Casita to Hermosillo.
There is no lack of wood or grass on any part of the road from Guaymas
to the frontier. The only difficulty in encamping at almost any point
upon the road is that of obtaining water in the dry season, _i.e._,
from February to the first of July. The remarks for each place apply
to the most unfavorable seasons.
APPENDIX.
A. _Portable Boat._
A boat has been invented by Colonel R. C. Buchanan, of the army, which
has been used in several expeditions in Oregon and in Washington
Territory, and has been highly commended by several experienced
officers who have had the opportunity of giving its merits a practical
service test.
It consists of an exceedingly light framework of thin and narrow
boards, in lengths suitable for packing, connected by hinges, the
different sections folding into so small a compass as to be
conveniently carried upon mules. The frame is covered with a sheet of
stout cotton canvas, or duck, secured to the gunwales with a cord
running diagonally back and forth through eyelet-holes in the upper
edge.
When first placed in the water the boat leaks a little, but the canvas
soon swells so as to make it sufficiently tight for all practical
purposes. The great advantage to be derived from the use of this boat
is, that it is so compact and portable as to be admirably adapted to
the requirements of campaigning in a country where the streams are
liable to rise above a fording stage, and where the allowance of
transportation is small.
It may be put together or taken apart and packed in a very few minutes,
and one mule suffices to transport a boat, with all its appurtenances,
capable of sustaining ten men.
Should the canvas become torn, it is easily repaired by putting on a
patch, and it does not rot or crack like India-rubber or gutta-percha;
moreover, it is not affected by changes of climate or temperature.
B. _Winter Traveling._
In traveling through deep snow, horses will be found much better than
mules, as the latter soon become discouraged, lie down, and refuse to
put forth the least exertion, while the former will work as long as
their strength holds out.
When the snow is dry, and not deeper than 2-1/2 feet, horses in good
condition, will walk through it without much difficulty, and throw
aside the snow so as to open quite a track. If there are several horses
they should be changed frequently, as the labor upon the leading one is
very severe. When the snow is deeper than 2-1/2 feet, it becomes very
difficult for animals to wade through it, and they soon weary and give
out. The best plan, under such circumstances (and it is the one I
adopted in crossing the Rocky Mountains, where the snow was from two to
five feet upon the ground), is to place all the disposable men in
advance of the animals to break the track, requiring them to alternate
from front to rear at regular intervals of time. In this manner a track
is beaten over which animals pass with comparative ease.
When the snow increases to about four feet, it is impossible for the
leading men to walk erect through it, and two or three of them are
compelled to crawl upon their hands and knees, all being careful to
place their hands and feet in the same holes that have been made by
those in advance. This packs the snow so that it will sustain the
others walking erect, and after 20 or 30 have passed it becomes
sufficiently firm to bear up the animals. This, of course, is an
exceedingly laborious and slow process, but it is the only alternative
when a party finds itself in the midst of very deep snows in a
wilderness. Animals, in walking over such a track as has been
mentioned, will soon acquire the habit of placing their feet in the
holes that have been made by the men; and, indeed, if they lose the
step or miss the holes, they will fall down or sink to their bellies.
Early in the winter, when the snow first falls in the Rocky Mountains,
it is so light and dry that snow-shoes can not be used to advantage. We
tried the experiment when we crossed the mountains in December and
January, but found it impossible to walk upon them.
Should a party, in a country where the snow is deep, have the
misfortune to lose its animals by freezing, the journey can not be
continued for any great length of time without devising some method of
transporting subsistence besides that of carrying it upon the backs of
the men, as they are unable to break a track through deep snow when
loaded down in this way.
The following plan has suggested itself to me as being the most
feasible, and it is the one I resolved to adopt in the event of losing
our mules faster than we required them for subsistence when we passed
the Mountains.
Take willow, or other flexible rods, and make long sleds, less in width
than the track, securing the cross-pieces with rawhide thongs. Skin the
animals, and cut the hides into pieces to fit the bottom of the sleds,
and make them fast, with the hair on the upper side. Attach a raw-hide
thong to the front for drawing it, and it is complete. In a very cold
climate the hide soon freezes, becomes very solid, and slips easily
over the snow. The meat and other articles to be transported are then
placed upon the sled so as not to project over the sides, and lashed
firmly. Lieutenant Cresswell, who was detached from Captain M'Clure's
ship in the Arctic regions in 1853, says his men dragged 200 pounds
each upon sledges over the ice. They could not, of course, pull as much
over deep snow, but it is believed that they would have no difficulty
in transporting half this amount, which would be sufficient to keep
them from starvation at least fifty days.
I am quite confident that a party of men who find themselves involved
in deep snows, dependent solely upon their own physical powers, and
without beasts of burden, can prolong their lives for a greater time,
travel farther, and perform more labor by adopting the foregoing
suggestions than in any other way.
C. _Indian Signals._
When Indians are pursued by a large force, and do not intend to make
resistance, they generally scatter as much as possible, in order to
perplex and throw off those who follow their trail, but they have an
understanding where they are to rendezvous in advance. Sometimes,
however, circumstances may arise during a rapid flight making it
necessary for them to alter these plans, and turn their course in
another direction. When this happens, they are in the habit of leaving
behind them some well-understood signals to indicate to their friends
in the rear the change in their-movements.
For instance, they will sometimes leave a stick or other object to
attract attention, and under this bury an arrow pointing in the new
direction they intend to take. They will then continue on for a time in
the course they have been pursuing, until they get upon hard ground,
where it is difficult to see their tracks, then gradually turn their
course in the new direction.
THE END.
[Illustration: SKETCH of the DIFFERENT ROADS.]