half a dollar each for an excellent dinner, with as much brandy and
butter-milk {293} as we choose to drink, and good feed for our horses.
In the afternoon we have the pleasure to be overtaken by two ladies on
horseback, and have their agreeable company for a mile or two. On their
turning off from our road we were very reluctantly obliged to refuse an
obliging invitation to drink tea at their house, and myself the more
so, as one of the ladies informed me she had married a Mr. Constantine,
a gentleman from my own native town of Bolton, in Lancashire. But, we
had yet so far to go, and it was getting dark. This most healthful
mode of travelling is universal in the Western States, and it gives me
great pleasure to see it; though, perhaps, I have to thank the badness
of the roads as the cause. Arrive at Frankfort, apparently a thriving
town, on the side of the rough Kentucky river.[31] The houses are built
chiefly of brick, and the streets, I understand, paved with limestone.
Limestone abounds in this state, and yet the roads are not good, though
better than in Indiana and Ohio, for there there are none. I wonder
the government of these states do not set about making good roads and
bridges, and even canals.[32] I pledge myself to be able to shew them
how the money might be raised, and, moreover, to prove that the expense
would be paid over and over again in almost no time. Such improvements
would be income to the governments instead of expense, besides being
such an incalculable benefit to the states. But, at any rate, why not
_roads_, and in _this_ state, too, which is so remarkable for its
quality of having good road materials and rich land together, generally
all over it?
[31] For the early history of Frankfort, see F. A. Michaux's _Travels_,
volume iii of our series, note 39.--ED.
[32] The first macadamized road in Kentucky, and the first to receive
state aid, was the Maysville and Lexington turnpike. It was begun in
1829, the state subscribing for $25,000 worth of stock. Congress, also,
voted to subscribe for fifteen hundred shares; but the now famous
Maysville Road Bill was vetoed by President Jackson. The state then
made further contributions amounting to half the cost of the road. A
great interest in road building was now aroused; by November, 1837, 343
miles of macadamized road had been completed with the aid of the state,
and 236 additional miles were under contract, the total contribution of
the state being about two and a half million dollars.--ED.
_July 10th._--Leave Frankfort, and come through a district of fine
land, very well watered, to Lexington; stop at Mr. Keen's tavern. Had
the good fortune to meet Mr. Clay, who carried us to his house, about
a mile in the country.[33] It is a beautiful residence, situated near
the centre of a very fine farm, which is just cleared and is coming
into excellent cultivation. I approve of Mr. Clay's method very much,
especially in laying down pasture. He clears away all the brush or
underwood, leaving timber enough to afford a sufficiency of shade to
the grass, which does not thrive here exposed {294} to the sun as in
England and other such climates. By this means he has as fine grass
and clover as can possibly grow. I could not but admire to see this
gentleman, possessing so much knowledge and of so much weight in his
country's affairs, so attentively promoting her not less important
though more silent interests by improving her agriculture. What
pleased me still more, however, because I less expected it, was, to
hear Mrs. Clay, in priding herself on the state of society, and the
rising prosperity of the country, citing as a proof the decency and
affluence of the trades-people and mechanics at Lexington, many of
whom ride about in their own carriages. What a contrast, both in sense
and in sentiment, between this lady and the wives of Legislators (as
they are called), in the land of the Boroughmongers! God grant that
no privileged batch ever rise up in America, for then down come the
mechanics, are harnessed themselves, and half ridden to death.
[33] Henry Clay's country seat near Lexington was called Ashland. Some
of his descendants still reside there.--ED.
_July 11th._--This is the hottest day we have had yet. Thermometer at
90 degrees, in shade. Met a Mr. Whittemore, from Boston, loud in the
praise of this climate. He informed me he had lately lost his wife
and five children near Boston, and that he should have lost his only
remaining child, too, a son now stout and healthy, had he not resolved
instantly to try the air of the west. He is confident that if he had
taken this step in time he might have saved the lives of all his
family. This might be however, and yet this climate not better than
that of Boston. Spent the evening with Colonel Morrison, one of the
first settlers in this state; a fine looking old gentleman, with colour
in his face equal to a London Alderman.[34] The people here are pretty
generally like that portion of the people of England who get porridge
enough to eat; stout, fat, and ruddy.
[34] Colonel James Morrison, born in Cumberland County, Pennsylvania,
was the son of an humble Irish immigrant. After serving in the
Revolutionary War, he came to Kentucky, and in 1792 settled at
Lexington. He was successively state representative from Fayette
County, president of the Lexington branch of the United States Bank,
and chairman of the board of trustees of Transylvania University.
Having acquired considerable wealth, he contributed liberally to
educational objects, and at his death (1823) left a fund for the
establishment of Morrison College, Lexington.--ED.
_July 12._--Hotter than yesterday; thermometer at 91 degrees.
_July 13._--Leave Lexington; stop at Paris, 22 miles.[35] a fine
country all the way; good soil, plenty of limestone and no musquitoes.
Paris is a healthy town, with a good deal of stir; woollen and cotton
manufactures are carried on here, but upon a small scale. {295} They
are not near enough to good coal mines to do much in that way. What
they do, however, is well paid for. A spinner told me he gets 83 cents
per lb. for his twist, which is 33 cents more than it would fetch at
New York. Stop at Mr. Timberlake's, a good house. The bar-keeper, who
comes from England, tells me that he sailed to Canada, but he is glad
he had the means to leave Canada and come to Kentucky; he has 300
dollars a year, and board and lodging. Made enquiry after young Watson,
but find he has left this place and is gone to Lexington.[36]
[35] For the early history of Paris, see A. Michaux's _Travels_, volume
iii of our series, note 39.--ED.
[36] James Watson and his father, James Watson, senior, were both
leaders of the Spenceans and by their inflammatory speeches stirred
up the mob at the Spa-fields meeting (see note 6, _ante_). The elder
Watson was tried for high treason, but he was acquitted. The son
escaped to America before he could be arrested.--ED.
The following is a list of the wages and prices of the most essential
branches of workmanship and articles of consumption, as they are here
at present.
Dls. Cts. Dls. Cts.
Journeymen saddlers' price for drawing on men's
saddles 1 25[37] to 2 50
Journeymen blacksmiths, per day 1 .. -- 1 25
--Per month 25 00 -- 30
Journeymen hatters (_casters_) 1 25 --
Ditto _rorum_ 1 .. --
Ditto for finishing, per month, and found 30 .. --
Journeymen shoe-makers (_coarse_) .. 75 --
Ditto, _fine_ 1 25 --
Ditto, for boots 3 25 --
Journeymen tailors, by the coat 5 .. --
Stone-masons or bricklayers, per day 1 .. -- 1 50
Carpenters, per day, and found 1 .. --
Salary for a clerk per annum 200 .. -- 500
Beef, per 100 lb 6 .. --
Flour, per barrel 6 .. --
[37] Or 5_s._ 7½_d._ to 11_s._ 3_d._ _sterling_. At the present rate
of exchange, a _dollar_ is equivalent to 4_s._ 6_d._ sterling, and a
_cent_ is the hundredth part of a dollar.--HULME.
_July 14th._--Hot again; 90 degrees. Arrive at Blue Licks, close by the
fine Licking Creek, 22 miles from Paris.[38] Here is a sulphur and salt
spring like that at French Lick in Indiana, which makes this a place of
great resort in summer for the fashionable swallowers {296} of mineral
waters; the three or four taverns are at this time completely crowded.
Salt was made till latterly at this spring, by an old Scotsman; he now
attends the ferry across the Creek. Not much to be said for the country
round here; it is stony and barren, what, I have not seen before in
Kentucky.
[38] For the early history of Blue Licks, see Cuming's _Tour_, volume
iv of our series, note 117.--ED.
_July 15th._--To Maysville, or Lime-stone, 24 miles. This is a place
on the banks of the Ohio, and is a sort of port for shipping _down_
the river to a great part of that district of the state for which
Louisville is the shipping port to and from New Orleans.[39] Still
hot; 90 degrees again. This is the fifth day; rather unusual, this
continuance of heat. The hot spells, as well as the cold spells, seldom
last more than three days, pretty generally in America.
[39] See A. Michaux's _Travels_, volume iii of our series, note 23, for
a brief account of Maysville.--ED.
_July 16th._--Hot still, but a fine breeze blowing up the river. Not a
bit too hot for me, but the natives say it is the hottest weather they
recollect in this country; a proof to me that this is a mild climate,
as to heat, at any rate. Saw a cat-fish in the market, just caught out
of the river by a hook and line, 4 feet long and eighty pounds weight,
offered for 2 dollars. Price of flour, 6 dollars a barrel; fresh beef,
6½ cents, and butter 20 cents per lb.
_July 17th._--Set out again, crossing the Ohio into the state of that
name, and take the road to Chillicothe, 74 miles from Maysville. Stop
about mid-way for the night, travelling over a country generally
hilly, and not of good soil, and passing through West Union,[40] a
place situated as a town ought to be, upon high and unlevel lands; the
inhabitants have fine air to breathe, and plenty of food to eat and
drink, and, if they keep their houses and streets and themselves clean,
I will ensure them long lives. Some pretty good farms in view of the
road, but many abandoned for the richer lands of Indiana and Illinois.
Travelling expenses much less, hitherto, than in Indiana and some parts
of Kentucky; we had plenty of good buttermilk at the farm-houses all
along the road, free of expense, and the tavern-keepers do not set
before us bread made of Indian corn, which we have not yet learned to
like very cordially.
[40] West Union, the seat of Adams County, is situated on Zane's Trace,
seventeen miles from Maysville and fifty-five from Chillicothe. It
was established by an act of legislature (January, 1804), which fixed
the county seat at that point, and ordered the land for a town to be
purchased and paid for out of the county treasury.--ED.
{297} _July 18th._--Come to Chillicothe,[41] the country improving
and more even as we proceed. See some very rich lands on passing
Paint Creek, and on approaching the Scioto river; these, like all the
_bottom_ lands, having a coat of sediment from their river in addition
to the original soil, are by far the richest. Chillicothe is a handsome
town, regularly laid out, but stands upon a flat. I hate the very sight
of a level street, unless there be every thing necessary to carry
off all filth and water. The air is very fine, so far as it is not
contaminated by the pools of water which stand about the town as green
as grass. Main sewers, like those at Philadelphia, are much wanted.
[41] For the early history of Chillicothe, see F. A. Michaux's
_Travels_, volume iii of our series, note 35.--ED.
_July 19th._--Called upon Mr. Bond, being introduced by letter, and
spent a very pleasant evening with him and a large party of his
agreeable friends.[42] Left them, much pleased with the society of
Chillicothe.
[42] William Key Bond was born in St. Mary's, Maryland, in 1792.
Educated in Connecticut, he came to Chillicothe (1812) and was admitted
to the bar. In 1841 he removed to Cincinnati, where he practiced law
until his death in 1864. He was a member of the 24th, 25th, and 26th
congresses, and was appointed by President Fillmore surveyor of the
port of Cincinnati.--ED.
_July 20th._--We were introduced to Governor Worthington, who lives
about 2 miles from the town.[43] He took us to his house, and showed us
part of his fine estate, which is 800 acres in extent, and all of it
elevated table land, commanding an immense view over the flat country
in the direction of Lake Erie. The soil is very rich indeed; so rich,
that the governor pointed out a dung heap which was bigger than the
barn it surrounded and had grown out of, as a nuisance. The labour
of dragging the dung out of the way, would be more than the cost of
removing the barn, so that he is actually going to pull the barn down,
and build it up again in another place. This is not a peculiarity of
this particular spot of land, for manure has no value here at all. All
the stable-dung made at Chillicothe is flung into the river. I dare
say, that the Inn we put up at does not tumble into the water less than
300 good loads of horse-dung every year.
[43] For a brief biography of Governor Worthington, see Cuming's _Tour_
volume iv of our series, note 142.--ED.
I had some conversation with Governor Worthington on the subject of
domestic manufactures, and was glad to find he is well convinced of
the necessity of, or at least of the great benefit that would result
from, the general establishment of them in the United States. He has
frequently recommended it in his public capacity, he informed me, and I
hope he will {298} advocate it with effect. He is a true lover of his
country, and no man that I have met with has a more thorough knowledge
of the detestable villainy of the odious Boroughmongering government of
England, and, of course, it has his full share of hatred.
_July 21st._--Leave Chillicothe. A fine, healthy country and very rich
land all the way to New Lancaster, 34 miles from Chillicothe, and 38
from Zanesville.[44] Stop at the house of a German, where we slept, but
not in bed, preferring a soft board and something clean for a pillow to
a bed of down accompanied with bugs.
[44] For the early history of New Lancaster, see Cuming's _Tour_,
volume iv of our series, note 145.--ED.
Nothing remarkable, that I can see, as to the locality of this, town
of _New Lancaster_; but, the name, alas! it brought to my recollection
the horrid deeds done at _Old Lancaster_, the county town of my native
country! I thought of _Colonel F----r_, and his conduct towards my
poor, unfortunate townsman, Gallant! I thought of the poor, miserable
creatures, men, women, and children, who, in the bloody year of 1812,
were first instigated by spies to commit arson, and then pursued into
death by the dealers in human blood. Amongst the sufferers upon this
particular occasion, there was a boy, who was silly, and who would at
any time, have jumped into a pit for a halfpenny: he was not fourteen
years old; and when he was about to be hanged, actually called out for
his "_mammy_" to come and save him! Who, that has a heart in his bosom,
can help feeling indignation against the cruel monsters! Who can help
feeling a desire to see their dreadful power destroyed! The day must
come, when the whole of the bloody tragedies of Lancashire will be
exposed. In the mean while, here I am in safety from the fangs of the
monsters, who oppress and grind my countrymen. The thought of these
oppressions, however, I carry about with me; and I cannot help its
sometimes bursting forth into words.
_July 22nd._--Arrived at Zanesville,[45] a place {299} finely situated
for manufactures, in a nook of the Muskingham, just opposite to the
mouth of Licking Creek. It has almost every advantage for manufacturing
of all sorts, both as to local situation and as to materials; it
excels Wheeling and Steubenville, in many respects, and, in some, even
Pittsburgh. The river gives very fine falls near the town, one of them
of 12 feet, where it is 600 feet wide; the creek, too, falls in by a
fine cascade. What a power for machinery! I should think that as much
effect might be produced by the power here afforded as by the united
_manual_ labour of all the inhabitants of the state. The navigation
is very good all the way up to the town, and is now continued round
the falls by a canal with locks, so that boats can go nearly close up
to Lake Erie. The bowels of the earth afford coal, iron ore, stone,
free stone, lime-stone, and _clays_: all of the best, I believe, and
the last, the very best yet discovered in this country, and, perhaps,
as good as is to be found in any country. All these materials are
found in inexhaustible quantities in the hills and little ridges on
the sides of the river and creek, arranged as if placed by the hand
of man for his own use. In short, this place has the four elements in
the greatest perfection that I have any where yet seen in America. As
to manufactures, it is, like Wheeling and Steubenville, nothing in
comparison to Pittsburg.
[45] For a more particular account of this place, as well, indeed, as
of most of the other towns I have visited, see Mr. Mellish's _Travels_,
volume ii.--HULME.
Nature has done her part; nothing is left wanting but machines to
enable the people of Ohio to keep their flour at home, instead of
exporting it, at their own expense to support those abroad who are
industrious enough to send them back coats, knives, and cups, and
saucers.
_July 23rd._--All day at Zanesville. Spent part of it very agreeably
with Mr. Adams the post-master, and old Mr. Dillon who has a large iron
foundery near this.
_July 24th._--Go with Mr. Dillon about 3 miles up the Creek, to see
his mills and iron-factory establishment. He has here a very fine
water-fall, of 18 feet, giving immense power, by which he works a {300}
large iron-forge and foundery, and mills for sawing, grinding, and
other purposes.
I will here subjoin a list of the prices at Zanesville, of provisions,
stock, stores, labour, &c. just as I have it from a resident, whom I
can rely upon.
Dls. Cts. Dls. Cts.
Flour (superfine) per barrel of 196 lb.
from 5 0 to 5 75
Beef, per 100 lb 4 0 -- 4 25
Pork (prime), per 100 lb. 4 50 -- 5 0
Salt, per bushel of 50 lb 2 25
Potatoes, per bushel 0 25 -- 0 31½
Turnips, ditto 0 20
Wheat, ditto of 60 lb. to 66 lb 0 75
Indian corn, ditto shelled 0 33⅓ -- 0 50
Oats, ditto 0 25 -- 0 33⅓
Rye, ditto 0 50
Barley, ditto 0 75
Turkeys, of from 12 lb. to 20 lb. each 0 37½ -- 0 50
Fowls 0 12½ -- 0 18¾
Live Hogs, per 100 lb. live weight 3 0 -- 5 0
Cows, (the best) 18 0 -- 25 0
Yoke of Oxen, ditto 50 0 -- 75 0
Sheep 2 50
Hay, per ton, delivered 9 0 -- 10 0
Straw, fetch it and have it.
Manure, ditto, ditto.
Coals, per bushel, delivered 0 8
Butter, per lb. avoirdupois 0 12½ -- 0 18
Cheese, ditto, ditto 0 12½ -- 0 25
Loaf Sugar 0 50
Raw ditto 0 31¼
Domestic Raw ditto 0 18¾
Merino Wool, per lb. avoirdupois, washed 1 0
Three-quarter Merino ditto 0 75
Common Wool 0 50
Bricks, per 1000, delivered 6 0 -- 7 0
Lime, per bushel, ditto 0 18¾
{301} Sand, in abundance on the banks of the
river.
Glass is sold in boxes, containing 100 square
feet; of the common size there are 180
panes in a box, when the price is 14 0
The price rises in proportion to the size
of the panes.
Oak planks, 1 inch thick, per 100 square
feet, at the saw-mill 1 50
Poplar, the same.
White Lead, per 100 lb. delivered 17 0
Red ditto 17 0
Litharge 15 0
Pig Lead 9 50
Swedish Iron (the best, in bars) 14 0
Juniatta, ditto, ditto 14 0
Mr. Dillon's, ditto, ditto 12 50
Castings at Mr. Dillon's Foundery per ton 120 0
Ditto, for machinery, ditto, per lb. 0 8
Potash, per ton 180 0
Pearl Ashes, ditto 200 0
Stone masons and bricklayers, per day, and
board and lodging 1 50
Plasterers, by the square yard, they finding
themselves in board and lodging and in
lime, sand, laths and every thing they use. 0 18¾
Carpenters, by the day, who find themselves
and bring their tools 1 25
Blacksmiths, by the month, found in board,
lodging and tools 30 0 to 40 0
Millwrights, per day, finding themselves 1 50 -- 2 0
Tailors, per week, finding themselves and
working 14 or 15 hours a day 7 0 -- 9 0
Shoemakers the same.
{302} Glazier's charge for putting in each pane
of glass 8 in. by 10 in. with their own putty
and laying on the first coat of paint 0 4 to 0 5
Labourers, per annum, and found 100 0 -- 120 0
The charge of carriage for 100 lb. weight
from Baltimore to Zanisville 10 0
Ditto for ditto by steam-boat from New Orleans
to Shippingport, and thence, by
boats, to Zanesville, about 6 50
Peaches, as fine as can grow, per bushel 0 12½ -- 0 25
Apples and pears proportionably cheaper;
sometimes given away, in the country.
Prices are much about the same at Steubenville; if any difference,
rather lower. If bought in a quantity, some of the articles enumerated
might be had a good deal lower. Labour, no doubt, if a job of some
length were offered, might be got somewhat cheaper here.
_July 25th._--Leave Zanesville for Pittsburgh, keeping to the United
States road; stop at Cambridge, 25 miles. During the first eight miles
we met 10 wagons, loaded with emigrants.
_July 26th._--Stop at Mr. Broadshaw's, a very good house on the road,
25 miles from Cambridge.[46] This general government road is by no
means well laid out; it goes strait over the tops of the numerous
little hills, up and down, up and down. It would have been a great deal
nearer in point of time, if not in distance (though I think it would
that, too), if a view had been had to the labour of travelling over
these everlasting unevennesses.
[46] When in 1798 Zane's Trace was laid out from Wheeling to
Zanesville, a ferry and tavern were established where the road crossed
Wills Creek. Eight years later the town of Cambridge was planted. Among
the early settlers were fifteen or twenty families from the Island of
Guernsey, who happened to be travelling through the West in search of
homes when the town lots were offered for sale.
Bradshaw's tavern was in the village of Fairview.--ED.
_July 27th._--To Wheeling in Virginia, 31 miles. They have had
tremendous rains in these parts, we hear as we pass along, lately; one
of the creeks we came over has overflown so as to carry down a man's
house with himself and his whole family. A dreadful catastrophe, but,
certainly, one not out of the man's {303} power to have foreseen and
prevented; it surprises me that the people will stick up their houses
so near the water's edge. Cross Wheeling Creek several times to-day; it
is a rapid stream, and I hope it will not be long before it turns many
water-wheels. See much good land, and some pretty good farming.
_July 28th._--Went with a Mr. Graham, a quaker of this place, who
treated us in the most friendly and hospitable manner, to see the new
national road from Washington city to this town.[47] It is covered with
a very thick layer of nicely broken stones, or stone rather, laid on
with great exactness both as to depth and width, and then rolled down
with an iron roller, which reduces all to one solid mass. This is a
road made for ever; not like the flint roads in England, rough, nor
soft or dirty, like the gravel roads; but, smooth and hard. When a road
is made in America it is _well_ made. An American always plots against
labour, and, in this instance, he takes the most effectual course to
circumvent it. Mr. Graham took us likewise to see the fine coal mines
near this place and the beds of limestone and freestone, none of which
I had time to examine as we passed Wheeling in our ark. All these
treasures lie very convenient to the river. The coals are principally
in one long ridge, about ten feet wide; much the same as they are at
Pittsburgh, in point of quality and situation. They cost 3 cents per
bushel to be got out from the mine. This price, as nearly as I can
calculate, enables the American collier to earn upon an average, double
the number of cents for the same labour that the collier in England
can earn; so that, as the American collier can, upon an average, buy
his flour for one third of the price that the English collier pays for
his flour, he receives _six times the quantity of flour for the same
labour_. Here is a country for the ingenious paupers of England to
come to! They find food and materials, and nothing wanting but their
mouths and hands to consume and work them. I should like to see the old
toast of the Boroughmongers brought out again; when they were in the
height of their impudence their myrmidons used to din in our ears, "Old
England for ever, and those that do not {304} like her let them leave
her." Let them renew this swaggering toast, and I would very willingly
for my part, give another to the same effect for the United States of
America. But, no, no! they know better now. They know that they would
be taken at their word; and, like the tyrants of Egypt, having got
their slaves fast, will (if they can) keep them so. Let them beware,
lest something worse than the Red Sea overwhelm them. Like Pharaoh and
his Boroughmongers they will not yield to the voice of the people, and,
surely, something like, or worse than, their fate shall befall them!
[47] For an account of the National Road, see Harris's _Journal_,
volume iii of our series, note 45.--ED.