by the direct way is about 18 miles, but, there is no road, as yet;
indeed, it was often with much difficulty that we could discover the
way at all. After we had crossed the Wabash, which we did at a place
called Davis's Ferry,[23] we hired a man to conduct us some part of the
way through the woods. In about a mile he brought us to a track, which
was marked out by slips of bark being stripped off the trees, once in
about 40 yards; he then left us and told us we could not mistake if we
followed that track. We soon lost all appearance of the track, however,
and of the "_blazing_" of the trees, as they call it; but, as it was
useless to go back again for another guide, our only way was to keep
straight on in the same direction, bring us where it would. Having no
compass, this nearly cost us our sight, for it was just mid-day, and
we had to gaze at the sun a long time before we discovered what was
our course. After this we soon, to our great joy, found ourselves in a
large corn field; rode round it, and came to Johnson's Ferry, a place
where a Bayou (_Boyau_) of the Wabash is crossed. This Bayou is a run
out of the main river round a flat portion of land, which is sometimes
overflowed: it is part of the same river, and the land encompassed by
it, an island. Crossed this ferry in a canoe, and got a ferry-man to
swim our horses after us. Mounted again and followed a track which
brought us to Black River, which we forded without getting wet, by
holding our feet up.[24] After crossing the river we found a man who
was kind enough to shew us about half a mile through the woods, by
which our journey was shortened five or six miles. He put us into a
direct track to Harmony, through lands as rich as a dung-hill, and
covered with immense timber; we {284} thanked him, and pushed on our
horses with eager curiosity to see this far-famed Harmonist Society.
[23] Davis's ferry across the Wabash was twelve miles from Albion.--ED.
[24] Black River, or Creek, rises in the southern part of Gibson
County, Indiana, and flows westward, emptying into the Wabash a few
miles above New Harmony.--ED.
On coming within the precincts of the Harmonites we found ourselves at
the side of the Wabash again; the river on our right hand, and their
lands on our left. Our road now lay across a field of Indian corn, of,
at the very least, a mile in width, and bordering the town on the side
we entered; I wanted nothing more than to behold this immense field
of most beautiful corn to be at once convinced of all I had heard of
the industry of this society of Germans, and I found, on proceeding a
little farther, that the progress they had made exceeded all my idea of
it.
The town is methodically laid out in a situation well chosen in all
respects; the houses are good and clean, and have, each one, a nice
garden well stocked with all vegetables and tastily ornamented with
flowers. I observe that these people are very fond of flowers, by the
bye; the cultivation of them, and musick, are their chief amusements. I
am sorry to see this, as it is to me a strong symptom of simplicity and
ignorance, if not a badge of their German slavery. Perhaps the pains
they take with them is the cause of their flowers being finer than any
I have hitherto seen in America, but, most probably, the climate here
is more favourable. Having refreshed ourselves at the Tavern, where we
found every thing we wanted for ourselves and our horses, and all very
clean and nice, besides many good things we did not expect, such as
beer, porter, and even wine, all made within the Society, and very good
indeed, we then went out to see the people at their harvest, which was
just begun. There were 150 men and women all reaping in the same field
of wheat. A beautiful sight! The crop was very fine, and the field,
extending to about two miles in length, and from half a mile to a mile
in width, was all open to one view, the sun shining on it from the
West, and the reapers advancing regularly over it.
At sun-set all the people came in, from the fields, workshops, mills,
manufactories, and from all their labours. This being their evening
for prayer {285} during the week, the Church bell called them out
again in about 15 minutes, to attend a lecture from their High Priest
and Law-giver, Mr. George Rapp.[25] We went to hear the lecture, or,
rather, to see the performance, for, it being all performed in German,
we could understand not a word. The people were all collected in a
twinkling, the men at one end of the Church and the women at the other;
it looked something like a Quaker Meeting, except that there was not a
single little child in the place. Here they were kept by their Pastor
a couple of hours, after which they returned home to bed. This is the
quantum of Church-service they perform during the week; but on Sundays
they are in Church nearly the whole of the time from getting up to
going to bed. When it happens that Mr. Rapp cannot attend, either by
indisposition or other accident, the Society still meet as usual, and
the _elders_ (certain of the most trusty and discreet, whom the Pastor
selects as a sort of assistants in his divine commission) converse on
religious subjects.
[25] George Rapp (1757-1847) was a weaver in Iptingen, Wurtemburg,
and was noted for his biblical knowledge and piety. He proposed to
reform society on the plan of the New Testament, gathering around him
a community of persons who, in imitation of the early Christians at
Jerusalem, held everything in common. This brought them into disfavor
with the government, and he, with a portion of his followers, emigrated
to the United States (1803), settling first on Conequenessing Creek,
Butler County, Pennsylvania. In 1815, he established Harmony, on the
Wabash, but ten years later led the colony back to Pennsylvania, and
founded the town of Economy, about seventeen miles north-west of
Pittsburg. See also, note 22, _ante_.--ED.
Return to the Tavern to sleep; a good comfortable house, well kept by
decent people, and the master himself, who is very intelligent and
obliging, is one of the very few at Harmony who can speak English. Our
beds were as good as those stretched upon by the most highly pensioned
and placed Boroughmongers, and our sleep, I hope, much better than the
tyrants ever get, in spite of all their dungeons and gags.
_July 2nd._--Early in the morning, took a look at the manufacturing
establishment, accompanied by our Tavern-keeper. I find great attention
is paid to this branch of their affairs. Their principle is, not to
be content with the profit upon the manual labour of _raising_ the
article, but also to have the benefit of the machine in preparing it
for _use_. I agree with them perfectly, and only wish the subject was
as well understood all over the United States as it is at Harmony. It
is to their skill in this way that they owe their great prosperity;
if they had been nothing but farmers, they would be now at Harmony in
Pennsylvania, poor cultivators, getting a bare subsistence, instead of
having doubled their property two or three {286} times over, by which
they have been able to move here and select one of the choicest spots
in the country.
But in noting down the state of this Society, as it now is, its
_origin_ should not be forgotten; the curious history of it serves as
an explanation to the jumble of sense and absurdity in the association.
I will therefore trace the Harmonist Society from its outset in Germany
to this place.
The Sect had its origin at Wurtemberg in Germany, about 40 years ago,
in the person of its present Pastor and Master, George Rapp, who,
by his own account, "having long seen and felt the decline of the
Church, found himself impelled to bear testimony to the fundamental
principles of the Christian Religion; and, finding no toleration for
his inspired doctrines, or for those who adopted them, he determined
with his followers to go to that part of the earth, where they were
free to worship God according to the dictates of their conscience." In
other words (I suppose), he had long beheld and experienced the slavery
and misery of his country, and, feeling in his conscience that he was
born more for a ruler than for a slave, found himself imperiously
called upon to collect together a body of his poor countrymen and
to lead them into a land of liberty and abundance. However allowing
him to have had no other than his professed views, he, after he had
got a considerable number of proselytes, amounting to seven or eight
hundred persons, among whom were a sufficiency of good labourers and
artizans in all the essential branches of workmanship and trade,
besides farmers, he embodied them into a Society, and then came himself
to America (not trusting to Providence to lead the way) to seek out
the land destined for these chosen children. Having done so, and laid
the plan for his route to the land of peace and Christian love, with
a foresight which shows him to have been by no means unmindful to the
_temporal_ prosperity of the Society, he then landed his followers in
separate bodies, and prudently led them in that order to a resting
place within Pennsylvania, choosing rather to retard their progress
through the wilderness than to hazard the discontent that might arise
from want and fatigue {287} in traversing it at once. When they were
all arrived, Rapp constituted them into one body, having every thing in
common, and called the settlement _Harmony_. This constitution he found
authorised by the passage in Acts, iv. 32, "And the multitude of them
that believed were of one heart, and of one soul: neither said any of
them that aught of the things he possessed was his own, _but that they
had all things common_." Being thus associated, the Society went to
work, early in 1805, building houses and clearing lands, according to
the order and regulations of their leader; but the community of stock,
or the regular discipline, or the restraints which he had reduced them
to, and which were essential to his project, soon began to thin his
followers and principally, too, those of them who had brought most
substance into the society; they demanded back their original portions
and set out to seek the Lord by themselves. This falling off of the
society, though it was but small, comparatively, in point of numbers,
was a great reduction from their means; they had calculated what they
should want to consume, and had laid the rest out in land; so that the
remaining part were subjected to great hardships and difficulties for
the first year or two of their settling, which was during the time of
their greatest labours. However, it was not long before they began to
reap the fruits of their toil, and in the space of six or seven years
their settlement became a most flourishing colony. During that short
space of time they brought into cultivation 3,000 acres of land (a
third of their whole estate), reared a flock of nearly 2,000 sheep,
and planted hop-gardens, orchards, and vineyards; built barns and
stables to house their crops and their live stock, granaries to keep
one year's produce of grain always in advance, houses to make their
cyder, beer, and wine in, and good brick or stone warehouses for their
several species of goods; constructed distilleries, mills for grinding,
sawing, making oil, and, indeed, for every purpose, and machines for
manufacturing their various materials for clothing and other uses; they
had, besides, a store for retailing Philadelphia goods to the country,
and nearly 100 good dwelling-houses of wood, a large stone-built
tavern, {288} and, as a proof of superabundance, a dwelling-house
and a meeting-house (alias the parsonage and church) which they had
neatly built of brick. And, besides all these improvements within
the society, they did a great deal of business, principally in the
way of manufacturing, for the people of the country. They worked for
them with their mills and machines, some of which did nothing else,
and their blacksmiths, tailors, shoe-makers, &c. when not employed by
themselves, were constantly at work for their neighbours. Thus this
everlastingly-at-work band of emigrants increased their stock before
they quitted their first colony, to upwards of two hundred thousand
dollars, from, probably not one fifth of that sum. What will not
unceasing perseverance accomplish? But, with judgment and order to
direct it, what in the world can stand against it![26]
[26] A more detailed account of this society, up to the year 1811, will
be found in Mr. Mellishe's _Travels_, volume ii.--HULME.
In comparing the state of this society as it now is with what it was
in Pennsylvania, it is just the same as to _plan_; the temporal and
spiritual affairs are managed in the same way, and upon the same
principles, only both are more flourishing. Rapp has here brought
his disciples into richer land, and into a situation better in every
respect, both for carrying on their trade, and for keeping to their
faith; their vast extent of land is, they say, four feet deep of rich
mould, nearly the whole of it, and it lies along the banks of a fine
navigable river on one side, while the possibility of much interruption
from other classes of Christians is effectually guarded against by
an endless barricado of woods on the other side. Bringing the means
and experience acquired at their first establishment, they have of
course gone on improving and increasing (not in _population_) at a much
greater rate. One of their greatest improvements, they tell me is the
working of their mills and manufacturing machines by steam; they feel
the advantage of this more and more every year. They are now preparing
to build a steam boat; this is to be employed in their traffick with
New Orleans {289} carrying their own surplus produce and returning with
tea, coffee, and other commodities for their own consumption, and to
retail to the people of the country. I believe they advance, too, in
the way of ornaments and superfluities, for the dwelling-house they
have now built their pastor, more resembles a Bishop's Palace than
what I should figure to myself as the humble abode of a teacher of the
"fundamental principles of the Christian Religion."
The government of this society is by bands, each consisting of a
distinct trade or calling. They have a foreman to each band, who rules
it under the general direction of the society, the law-giving power
of which is in the High Priest. He cannot, however make laws without
the consent of the parties. The manufacturing establishment, and the
mercantile affairs and public accounts are all managed by one person;
he, I believe, is one of the sons of Rapp. They have a bank, where a
separate account is kept for each person; if any one puts in money, or
has put in money, he may on certain conditions as to time, take it out
again. They labour and possess in common; that is to say, except where
it is not practicable or is immaterial, as with their houses, gardens,
cows and poultry, which they have to themselves, each family. They also
retain what property each may bring on joining the concern, and he may
demand it in case of leaving the society, but _without interest_.
Here is certainly a wonderful example of the effects of skill,
industry, and force combined. This congregation of far-seeing,
ingenious, crafty, and bold, and of ignorant, simple, superstitious,
and obedient, Germans, has shown what may be done. But their example, I
believe, will generally only tend to confirm this free people in their
suspicion that labour is concomitant to slavery or ignorance. Instead
of their improvements, and their success and prosperity altogether,
producing admiration, if not envy, they have a social discipline, the
thought of which reduces these feelings to ridicule and contempt: that
is to say, with regard to the _mass_; with respect to their leaders
one's feelings are apt to be stronger. A fundamental of their religious
creed ("_restraining_ {290} _clause_," a Chancery Lawyer would call it)
requires restrictions on the propagation of the species; it orders such
regulations as are necessary to prevent children coming but once in a
certain number of years; and this matter is so arranged that, when they
come, they come in little flocks, all within the same month, perhaps,
like a farmer's lambs. The Law-giver here made a famously "restraining
statute" upon the law of nature! This way of expounding law seems to be
a main point of his policy; he by this means keeps his associates from
increasing to an unruly number within, while more are sure not to come
in from without; and, I really am afraid he will go a good way towards
securing a monopoly of many great improvements in agriculture, both as
to principle and method. People see the fine fields of the Harmonites,
but, the prospect comes damped with the idea of bondage and celibacy.
It is a curious society: was ever one heard of before that did not
wish to increase! This smells strong of policy; some distinct view in
the leaders, no doubt. Who would be surprised if we were to see a
still more curious society by and bye? A _Society Sole_! very far from
improbable, if the sons of Rapp (for he has children, nevertheless, as
well as Parson Malthus)[27] and the _Elders_ were to die, it not being
likely that they will renounce or forfeit their right to the common
stock. We should then have societies as well as corporations vested in
one person! That would be quite a novel kind of benefice! but, not the
less fat. I question whether the _associated_ person of Mr. Rapp would
not be in possession of as fine a domain and as many good things as the
_incorporated_ person of an Archbishop: nay, he would rival the Pope!
But, to my journal.
[27] Robert Malthus (1766-1834), an English economist, who held the
theory that the increase of population is more rapid than the increase
of the means of subsistence, and consequently must be held in check,
was himself a married man and had a son and daughter. Earlier in life
he had held a curacy; the title "Parson Malthus" was sneeringly given
to him by Cobbett, as his later doctrines were considered unsuitable
for a clergyman.--ED.
Arrive at Princeton in the evening; a good part of our road lay over
the fine lands of the Harmonites. I understand, by the bye, that the
title deeds to these lands are taken in the name of _Rapp and of his
associates_. Poor associates: if they do but rebel! Find the same
store-keepers and tavern-keepers in the same attitudes that we left
them in the other day. Their legs _only a little_ higher than their
heads, and {291} segars in their mouths; a fine position for business!
It puts my friend in mind of the Roman posture in dining.
_July 3rd._--At Princeton all day. This is a pretty considerable place;
very good as to buildings; but is too much inland to be a town of any
consequence until the inhabitants do that at home which they employ
merchants and foreign manufacturers to do for them. Pay 1 dollar for a
set of old shoes to my horse, half the price of new ones.
_July 4th._--Leave Princeton; in the evening, reach a place very
appropriately called Mud-holes,[28] after riding 46 miles over lands
in general very good but very little cultivated, and that little very
badly; the latter part of the journey in company with a Mr. Jones
from Kentucky. Nature is the agriculturist here; speculation instead
of cultivation, is the order of the day amongst men. We feel the ill
effects of this in the difficulty of getting oats for our horses.
However, the evil is unavoidable, if it can be really called an evil.
As well might I grumble that farmers have not taken possession as
complain that men of capital have. Labour is the thing wanted, but, to
have that money must come first. This Mud-holes was a sort of fort, not
4 years ago, for guarding against the Indians, who then committed great
depredations, killing whole families often, men, women and children.
How changeable are the affairs of this world! I have not met with a
single Indian in the whole course of my route.
[28] "Mud-holes" was located near the White River, in the northwestern
part of the present Du Bois County. It was on an old trail called
"Mud-hole trace," which led from Vincennes to Jeffersonville. As early
as 1802, before the land had been ceded by the Indians, two McDonald
brothers from Virginia settled there. They were soon followed by other
pioneers, and a blockhouse was built as a refuge in case of an Indian
attack.--ED.
_July 5th._--Come to Judge Chambers's,[29] a good tavern; 35 miles.
On our way, pass French Lick, a strong spring of water impregnated
with salt and sulphur, and called _Lick_ from its being resorted to by
cattle for the salt; close by this spring is another still larger, of
fine clear limestone water, running fast enough to turn a mill.[30]
Some of the trees near the Judge's exhibit a curious spectacle; a
large piece of wood appears totally dead, all the leaves brown and
the branches broken, from being roosted upon lately by an enormous
multitude of pigeons. A novel sight for us, unaccustomed to the
abundance of the back-woods! {292} No tavern but this, nor house of any
description, within many miles.
[29] This is now Chambersburg, in Orange County, about thirty-eight
miles northwest of New Albany. It was named in honor of Samuel
Chambers, who emigrated from North Carolina (1811) and established the
first store and tavern at this place. When Orange County was organized
(1816), he was appointed a county judge.--ED.
[30] French Lick is about fifty miles northwest of New Albany. The
springs were donated to the state by Congress on the supposition that
salt could profitably be manufactured therefrom; but this did not prove
practicable. In recent years French Lick and West Baden Springs, a
half-mile distant, have won attention as health resorts.--ED.
_July 6th._--Leave the Judge's, still in company with Mr. Jones. Ride
25 miles to breakfast, not sooner finding feed for our horses; this
was at the dirty log-house of Mr. ---- who has a large farm with a
grist-mill on it, and keeps his yard and stables ancle deep in mud and
water. If this were not one of the healthiest climates in the world,
he and his family must have died in all this filth. About 13 miles
further, come to New Albany, where we stop at Mr. Jenkins's, the best
tavern we have found in Indiana, that at Harmony excepted.
_July 7th._--Resting at New Albany. We were amused by hearing a
Quaker-lady preach to the natives. Her first words were "_All the
nations of the earth are of one blood._" "So," said I to myself,
"this question, which has so long perplexed philosophers, divines and
physicians, is now set at rest!" She proceeded to vent her rage with
great vehemence against hireling priests and the trade of preaching in
general, and closed with dealing out large portions of brimstone to
the drunkard and still larger and hotter to those who give the bottle
to drink. This part of her discourse pleased me very much and may be a
saving to me into the bargain; for, the dread of everlasting roasting
added to my love of economy will (I think) prevent me making my friends
tipsy. A very efficacious sermon!
_July 8th._--Jenkins's is a good tavern, but it entertains at a high
price. Our bill was 6 dollars each for a day and two nights; a shameful
charge. Leave New Albany, cross the Ohio, and pass through Louisville
in Kentucky again, on our way to Lexington, the capital. Stop for the
night at Mr. Netherton's, a good tavern. The land hitherto is good,
and the country altogether healthy, if I may judge from the people
who appear more cheerful and happy than in Indiana, always excepting
Harmony. Our landlord is the picture of health and strength: 6 feet 4
inches high, weighs 300 lb. and not fat.