say, 1800 miles up the Missouri river. The wheels are made to work
in the stern of the boat, so as not to come in contact with the
floating trees, snaggs, planters,[48] &c., obstructions most likely
very numerous in that river. But, the placing the wheels behind only
saves _them_; it is no protection against the _boat's sinking_ in case
of being pierced by a planter or sawyer.[49] Observing this I will
suggest a plan which has occurred to me, and which, I think, would
provide against sinking, effectually; but, at any rate, it is one
which can be tried very easily and with very little expense.--I would
make a partition of strong plank; put it in the broadest fore-part
of the boat, right across, and put good iron bolts under the bottom
of the boat, through these planks, and screw them on the top of the
deck. Then put an upright post in the inside of the boat against the
middle of the plank partition, and put a spur to the upright post.
The partition should be water-tight. I would then load the fore-part
of the boat, thus partitioned off with lumber or such loading as is
least liable to injury, and best calculated to stop the progress of
a sawyer after it has gone through the boat.--By thus appropriating
the fore-part of the boat to the reception of planters and sawyers,
it appears to me that the other part would be secured against all
intrusion.
[48] Trees tumbled head-long and fixed in the river.--HULME.
[49] The same as the planter only waving up and down.--HULME.
{305} _July 29th._--From Wheeling, through Charlston, changing sides
of the river again to Steubenville.[50] My eyes were delighted at
Charlston to see the smoke of the coals ascending from the glass-works
they have here. This smoke it is that must enrich America; she might
save almost all her dollars if she would but bring her invaluable black
diamonds into service. Talk of independance, indeed, without coats to
wear or knives or plates to eat with!
[50] Charleston, on the Kanawha River, about sixty miles from its
mouth, is located on the military grant made by Lord Dunmore to Colonel
Thomas Bullitt (1772), in recognition of his services in Braddock's and
Forbes's campaigns. Five years thereafter, the land was purchased by
George Clendenin, one of the commissioners for laying out a road from
Lewisburg to the Kanawha. Clendenin constructed (1788) a fort on the
present site of Charleston, and soon other pioneers built log cabins
under its shelter. In 1794 the town of Charleston was established by
legislative enactment.--ED.
At Steubenville, became acquainted with Messrs. Wills, Ross, and
company, who have an excellent and well-conducted woollen manufactory
here. They make very good cloths, and at reasonable prices; I am sorry
they do not retail them at Philadelphia; I for one, should be customer
to them for all that my family wanted in the woollen-way. Here are
likewise a Cotton-mill, a Grist-mill, a Paper-mill, an Iron-foundery
and Tan-yards and Breweries. Had the pleasure to see Mr. Wilson,[51]
the editor of the Steubenville Gazette, a very public-spirited man,
and, I believe, very serviceable to this part of the country. If the
policy he so powerfully advocates were adopted, the effects would
be grand for America; it would save her dollars while it would help
to draw the nails of the vile Boroughmongers. But, he has to labour
against the inveterate effects of the thing the most difficult of all
others to move--habit.
[51] James Wilson, who had been on the staff of the Philadelphia
_Aurora_, came to Steubenville (1815) to edit the _Herald_, changing
the name to the _Western Herald and Steubenville Gazette_, and the
politics from Democratic to Whig. Wilson was elected to the state
legislature in 1816 and again in 1820, and was an associate justice of
the court of common pleas. He died in 1852.--ED.
By what I have been able to observe of this part of the country, those
who expect to find what is generally understood by _society_, pretty
much the same that they have been accustomed to it on the Atlantic
side, or in England, will not be totally disappointed. It is here upon
the basis of the same manners and customs as in the oldest settled
districts, and it there differs from what it is in England, and here
from what it is there, only according to circumstances. Few of the
social amusements that are practicable at present, are scarce; dancing,
the most rational for every reason, is the most common; and in an
assemblage for this purpose, composed of the farmers' daughters and
sons from 20 miles round, an Englishman (particularly if a young one)
might very well think his travels to be {306} all a dream, and that he
was still in a Boroughmonger country. Almost always the same tunes and
dances, same manners, same dress. Ah, it is that same _dress_ which is
the great evil! It may be a very pretty sight, but, to see the dollars
thus danced out of the country into the hands of the Boroughmongers,
to the tune of national airs, is a thing which, if it do not warrant
ridicule, will, if America do not, by one unanimous voice, soon put a
stop to it.
_July 30th._--From Steubenville, crossing the Ohio for the last time,
and travelling through a slip of Virginia and a handsome part of
Pennsylvania, to Pittsburgh.
_August 1st._--Sold my horse for 75 dollars, 60 dollars less than I
gave for him. A horse changes masters no where so often as in this
Western country, and no where so often rises and falls in value. Met a
Mr. Gibbs, a native of Scotland, and an old neighbour of mine, having
superintended some oil of vitriol works, near to my bleach-works on
Great Lever, near Bolton, in Lancashire. He now makes oil of vitriol,
aquafortis, salt, soap, &c. at this place, and is, I believe, getting
rich. Spent a pleasant evening with him.
_August 2nd._--Spent most part of the day with Mr. Gibbs, and dined
with him; as the feast was his, I recommended him to observe the latter
part of the good Quaker Lady's sermon which we heard at New Albany.
_August 3rd._--Leave Pittsburgh, not without some regret at bidding
adieu to so much activity and smoke, for I expect not to see it
elsewhere. I like to contemplate the operation by which the greatest
effect is produced in a country. Take the same route and the same stage
as on setting out from Philadelphia.
_August 4th, 5th, and 6th._--These three days traversing the romantic
Allegany Mountains; got overturned (a common accident here) _only_
once, and then received very little damage: myself none, some of my
fellow travellers a few scratches. We scrambled out, and, with the
help of some wagoners, set the vehicle on its wheels again, adjusted
our "_plunder_" (as some of the Western people call it), and drove on
again {307} without being detained more than five minutes. The fourth
night slept at Chambersburgh, the beginning of a fine country.
_August 7th._--Travelled over the fine lime-stone valley before
mentioned, and through a very good country all the way, by Little York
to Lancaster. Here I met with a person from Philadelphia, who told me a
long story about a _Mr. Hulme_, an Englishman, who had brought a large
family and considerable property to America. His property, he told
me, the said Mr. Hulme had got from the English Government, for the
invention of some machine, and that now, having got rich under their
patronage, he was going about this country doing the said Government
all the mischief he could, and endeavouring to promote the interest of
this country. After letting him go on till I was quite satisfied that
he depends mainly for his bread and butter upon the English Treasury,
I said, "Well, do you know this Mr. Hulme?" "No, he had only heard of
him." "Then I do, and I know that he never had any patent, nor ever
asked for one, from the English government; all he has got he has
gained by his own industry and economy, and, so far from receiving a
fortune from that vile government, he had nothing to do with it but
to pay and obey, without being allowed to give a vote for a Member of
Parliament or for any Government officer. He is now, thank God, in a
country where he cannot be taxed but by his own consent, and, if he
should succeed in contributing in any degree to the downfall of the
English Government, and to the improvement of this country, he will
only succeed in doing his duty." This man could be no other than a
dependant of that boroughmongering system which has its feelers probing
every quarter and corner of the earth.
_August 8th._--Return to Philadelphia, after a journey of 72 days. My
expenses for this journey, including every thing, not excepting the
loss sustained by the purchase and sale of my horse, amount to 270
dollars and 70 cents.
As it is now about a twelvemonth since I have {308} been settled in
Philadelphia, or set foot in it, rather, with my family, I will take a
look at my books, and add to this Journal what have been the expenses
of my family for this one year, from the time of landing to this day,
inclusive.
Dls. Cts.
House-rent 600 0
Fuel 137 0
Schooling (at day-schools) for my children viz.; Dolls.
for Thomas, 14 years of age 40
Peter and John, ages of 12 and 10 48
Sarah, 6 years of age 18 -- 106 0
Boarding of all my family at Mrs. Anthony's Hotel
for about a week, on our arrival 80 0
Expenses of house-keeping (my family fourteen in
number, including two servants) with every other
out-going not enumerated above, travelling incidents,
two newspapers a day, &c., &c. 2076 66
Taxes, not a cent 0 0
Priest, not a cent 0 0
----------
Total 2999 66
"What! nothing to the Parson!" some of my old neighbours will exclaim.
No: not a single stiver. The Quakers manage their affairs without
Parsons, and I believe they are as good and as happy a people as any
religious denomination who are aided and assisted by a Priest. I do
not suppose that the Quakers will admit me into their Society; but,
in this free country I can form a new society, if I choose, and, if
I do, it certainly shall be a Society having a Chairman in place of a
Parson, and the assemblage shall discuss the subject of their meeting
themselves. Why should there not be as much knowledge and wisdom and
common sense, in the heads of a whole congregation, as in the head of
a Parson? Ah, but then there are the profits arising from the trade!
Some of this holy Order in England receive upwards of 40,000 dollars
per {309} annum for preaching probably not more than five or six
sermons during the whole year. Well may the Cossack Priests represent
Old England as the bulwark of religion! This is the sort of religion
they so much dreaded the loss of during the French Revolution; and this
is the sort of religion they so zealously expected to establish in
America, when they received the glad tidings of the restoration of the
Bourbons and the Pope.
END OF THE JOURNAL
FLOWER'S LETTERS FROM LEXINGTON (JUNE 25, 1819) AND THE ILLINOIS
(AUGUST 16, 1819)
Reprint of the original edition: London, 1819
LETTERS
FROM
_LEXINGTON and the ILLINOIS_,
CONTAINING A
BRIEF ACCOUNT OF THE ENGLISH SETTLEMENT
_IN THE LATTER TERRITORY_,
AND A
REFUTATION OF THE MISREPRESENTATIONS
OF MR. COBBETT.
BY RICHARD FLOWER.
London:
_Printed by C. TEULON, 67, High Street, Whitechapel_,
FOR J. RIDGWAY, PICCADILLY
1819.
[_Price One Shilling._]
PREFACE
VARIOUS have been the reports respecting the _Illinois_
Settlement, as they relate to the health of the climate, and the state
of agriculture. The following Letters contain a simple narration of
facts, the result of real observation, and an accurate survey; and
will appear time enough to counteract the evil impression of false
information by persons who have not been on the spot, or who appear to
be interested in writing down the settlement.
As to the various reports about the state of health, they may be easily
accounted for by comparing dates. On the arrival of emigrants in the
summer of 1818, there were no cabins to shelter them from the heat of
the sun by day, or from the dew, by night; neither a cow or pig for
food, and scarcely a sufficiency for human subsistence to be procured:
sickness to a considerable degree prevailed; but not more than three
or four cases of death ensued. Since these inconveniences have {iv}
been overcome, few places, I believe I may say in the world, have been
healthier than the English settlement in the Illinois.
I trust my friends and acquaintance in England, who interest themselves
in our concerns, retain that good opinion of me, as to believe me
incapable, from _any_ motive, of laying before them inducements to
emigrate to a station, where their existence or comfort would be likely
to be threatened by diseases not prevalent in the same degree, at
least, as in their own country.
A difference of opinion as to eastern or western settlements may
prevail, as differences of opinion in England respecting Essex or
Hertfordshire, which may be most healthy or profitable. I have only to
request the attention of the reader to the facts I have stated.
The miscellaneous matter relative to the state of _Kentucky_, &c. will
not, I hope, be found to be entirely destitute of interest to my old
acquaintance in my native country.
LETTERS, &c.
LETTER I
_Lexington, June 25, 1819._
MY DEAR FRIEND,
IT is natural you should have made those enquiries of me which
you did in your last, and which it shall be my business to answer in
their respective order.
1st.--How I like America in general, and Lexington in particular?
2nd.--Whether I have been disgusted with the American character and
habits, as many have been? or whether I dare invite others to follow
the course I have taken? but above all, how I, whose notions of liberty
run so high, can endure to reside in a state where personal slavery
exists.
{6} Your first enquiry I am yet incompetent to answer to the extent
you make it; for, although I have travelled from New York to
Pittsburgh,--down the Ohio to this place,--I have only had a sample
of this extensive country; and as you, my dear Sir, are in the habit
of purchasing your goods by sample, and to my knowledge are often
disappointed in the bulk, so you may not, perhaps, have a fair sample
of entire America by the information I send you.
As to the great cities, they have no charms for me. You know, great
cities in England, as places of residence, were the objects of
my aversion; and if there is any thing in those of New York and
Philadelphia which I dislike, it is because they approximate so much
to similar cities of England, without those rare shows which please
both infants and children of larger growth, in London.
Here are few public buildings worthy of notice. No kings going to
open Parliament with gilded coaches and cream-coloured horses, with a
train of dragoons at their heels.--No Lord Mayor's show.--No Towers
filled with royal tigers and lions.--No old castles which beautify
the rural scenes of the country, whose melancholy history informs the
curious traveller, that their foundation was bedded in {7} tyranny,
and their superstructure the retainers of weeping prisoners, often of
rank, as well as oppressed plebeians. No cathedrals or old churches
to ornament the cities as well as the counties of England,--monuments
of superstition when erected, and of injustice and oppression even
to this day, having for their support tithe-proctors, and surveyors,
continually obstructing the progress of agriculture, and exciting
contentions and law suits to an extent for which all the preaching of
the clergy of England cannot present an equivalent, or balance the evil
produced by a worldly and avaricious priesthood.
America has none of these costly ornaments or beautiful monuments of
oppression. I thank God she has not; and hope she may be exempt from
them, although strange to tell, I have found amongst both clergy and
laity some few who wish for these degradations, and am even informed
there are those who sigh after a religious establishment, and revenues
besides those collected by the voluntary donations which flow from
affectionate and religious hearers.
The episcopalian clergy in this country, have an enjoyment seldom known
in England, that is, being chosen by the people, and supported {8}
according to their respective merits; and it is my duty to add that
episcopalians, as well as the ministers of most other sects, are in
general "labourers worthy of their hire," virtuous in their conduct,
exemplary in their deportment, exhibiting christianity in their every
day conduct and intercourse with mankind, and enjoying the esteem of
their congregations. There are none of those divines in the busy hive
of America, which you know by the name of _dignified clergy_, partaking
of the largest revenues, and doing the least possible service,--conduct
which one would think must make their hearts shudder at the thoughts of
a judgment day!
As to the travelling in America, you are already informed of its
conveniences and inconveniences; you dine at a fixed hour, as at our
ordinaries in England; and you have abundance of provision of every
kind the country affords. Poultry in every shape, with the standing
dish, ham or bacon: but you must be aware, that in a country so
extensive as I have already traversed, there must be as much difference
in accommodations, as there is between the best inns on the great
roads of England, and those in the remote villages. The beds generally
cleanly; but although I have {9} not suffered the inconveniences so
magnified in England from musquitoes, the often-brought charge of being
infested with that ugly and sleep-destroying insect the bug, is indeed
too true. Also, the many-bedded rooms found in most taverns, as you
travel westward, is more than an inconvenience, as often being the
sleeping-place of those who fall sick, as of those who are in health;
and, in this respect, the Americans are criminal, and instrumental in
spreading infection, which might be avoided by a little expense in the
division of sleeping-rooms; but there are many happy exceptions; and,
as civilization advances, this evil will be cured.
As to the general character of the Americans, it is sober, industrious,
and hospitable; although drunkenness, idleness, and gambling, are vices
in existence, they are kept in the back ground, and are by no means so
conspicuous as amongst what are called the lower class in England.
It is remarkable, that in the houses of the wealthy, as well as in
store or shop-keepers back-rooms, it is the common practice to ask you
to take a glass of water, cool fresh water, as a refreshment; at which
offer no one is offended; and when wine or liquors are on the {10}
salver, water is often preferred; but our countrymen would think it a
sad insult to be invited to so simple a refreshment.
I have, my dear sir, met with no instances of a rude ruffian-like
character, that will apply to Americans generally; and, I believe, much
less than I should have met with in England, had I travelled her roads
and rivers to the extent I have done in this country.
The American notion of liberty and equality is highly gratifying to me.
The master or employer is kept within the bounds of reason and decency
towards his labourer. No curses or oaths towards their servants, or
HELPS as they choose to call themselves; (for every one
who takes money or wages, is, after all, a servant;) he obeys all
reasonable orders for his remuneration; and when this obedience ceases,
the contract of service is at an end. I have often been surprised at
the highmindedness of American labourers, who are offended at the name
of _servant_.
With respect to this place, I have, in former letters, stated it to
be a phenomenon in the history of the world; twenty-five years since
it was trodden only by the foot of the savage; now it contains about
three thousand inhabitants. A college, at which are already one {11}
hundred and forty students; its professors, chosen purely for their
talents, without any requirement of unanimity of religious opinions, as
in the colleges with you: professors so chosen, not being confined to
any particular sect, are likely to fill their stations with ability;
and, as far as I am capable of judging, are eminently calculated for
their respective situations to which they are chosen. This institution
promises to be in the moral world, what the sun is in the natural
world, and is calculated to illuminate, civilize, and bless mankind.
To the inhabitants of Lexington, wherever I may reside in future, I
shall ever feel grateful: their hospitality, their kindness to me, as a
stranger, and their sympathy in the hour of affliction, are never to be
effaced from my memory.
Their politeness and liberality are perhaps, unequalled. Balls,
at which the fair sex are never allowed to share any expence,--an
Atheneum and a considerable museum, the benefits of which the stranger
is invited to partake _gratis_,--may be mentioned as not being very
customary in England. Tea-parties are a continual festival from the
time you enter to the time of your departure, which however, are too
much like our routs in England; and in time, I should fear would, as
they have in England, become {12} a substitute for hospitality. I have
known collected at these parties from one to two hundred persons.
Thus, my dear Sir, you see, instead of being in continual broils, and
exposed to the affronts and insults of rude Americans, I have received
nothing but civility and hospitality. It will hardly be credited when I
assure you I have not yet met with a single annoyance in the whole of
my journey from New York to Pittsburgh by land; nor from thence down
the Ohio to Louisville,--a distance of six hundred miles by water, and
five hundred miles by land: thus you see, my dear friend, I am in no
danger at present, of being disgusted by American rudeness, irreligion,
or fanaticism.
To your last question,--How can you reside in a state where personal
slavery is in existence? I, with regret, reply, this is the spot which
clouds the American sun of liberty; and I confess I know not which
are most excited in me, the risible or the sorrowful feelings, when
I hear a _Kentuckyan_ boasting, in lofty terms, of the liberty of
his country, when that country is divided into two classes, and two
classes only--the master and the slave! The term of _master_ implies
the willing servitude of _free men_: the term _slave_, includes in
it the admission {13} of tyrants or tyranny; and a Kentuckyan has no
more right to talk of freedom than the _legitimates_, whose determined
purpose it is to blot liberty and happiness from the face of the earth.
The one talks of liberty and social order, and it appears that by it is
meant the increasing trappings of monarchy; the other does the same of
liberty, and the rights of men.