Just when we came into the court of the temple there appeared an old

heathenish prison, wherein are prisoners kept to this day, near which

did stand the _Prison-gate_ (whereof we saw still some part of the wall

up in the wall of the church) through which Christ did carry his cross

to the place of sculls, which in former days was without the town, as

you may clearly see in St _Mark_, chap. xvii. 20. where he writes: ‘And

they led him out to crucify him.’ And in _Hebrews_, chap. xiii. 12. where

it is plainly writ, that ‘Christ suffered without the gate.’ But when

afterwards the Emperor _Adrian_ did rebuild and enlarge the desolated

town, he did also surround with a wall the place where our Lord Jesus

Christ did suffer, which was without towards the north-west, beyond the

mount _Moria_, so that now it is situated almost in the middle of the

city of _Jerusalem_, and because of this inlargement he call’d the town

after his sir-name _Helia_.

We staying a great while at the gate, before they did open it unto us,

several Oriential Christians, to wit, _Greeks_, _Jacobites_, _Armenians_,

&c. came to us to visit their Priests, and to perform their devotion in

it, so that about three-score went in with us.

The building of the temple is very large, of strong walls, and so thick,

that it taketh away the Light within: it is richly covered with grey

marble within and without, and supported by some marble pillars about

a fathom and a half thick, so strongly, that one may conclude from

thence, that neither labour nor costs were spared in it’s building. Yet

the _Turks_, (notwithstanding the holy places and the costliness of the

building) have in some places spoiled and demolished some part of the

walls thereof, so that now they are no more like to the old ones that

were before, and besides (as the Guardian told us) half of it is hardly

remaining. Yet it is still very large, and so well closed up again, that

one can hardly perceive the loss thereof.

As we went through, we passed by the grave of Christ, in a glorious large

chapel, called our _Ladies_, which the _Franciscans_ have in possession,

and is hung with tapestry very well wrought. Within it is a great altar,

on each side whereof is to be seen a nick, artificially made of white

marble, the windows whereof are very well guarded with iron bars: In that

towards the left hand is kept a piece of the column whereon Christ was

whip’d; it is of a reddish colour, three spans long, and four over. In

the other on the right there is a small crucifix, in the middle whereof

is in-laid a small piece of the true cross of Christ.

From thence we went farther into the vestry; which hath several large

rooms, where we staid until the _Franciscans_ had put on their usual

habits to go their rounds with us, and to shew us the holy places with

the usual ceremonies. When they had made themselves ready we came out

again into the church, and left the chancel of the _Græcians_, that is

in the middle, and the holy grave upon our right hand, and went to the

left to another chapel, whereby the _Græcians_ have an altar without,

by which, in the marble floor, are two holes to be seen, wherein they

pretend that Christ was detained prisoner until they had fixed the cross

for him on the place of the sculls. This chapel is within very deep, and

so dark, that when you go into it you believe that you go into a cave,

where the _Romanists_ believe (as I understood by a _French man_ of their

convent, who was in a Priest’s habit, and as we went about, standing

before the altar, did tell us, what they had done to Christ our Lord, in

every place) that they did detain Christ (as in a place where-into they

threw their dust) to mock him, until his cross was got ready for him.

Just by the chapel behind the chancel they shew on a high arch another

place, where the soldiers did share Christ’s cloaths amongst them, and

cast lots for his coat.

Somewhat farther about they shew a pair of stairs of twenty nine steps,

which we descended, and came into a great chapel of Queen _Helen_,

situated underneath mount _Calvaria_, wherein is still towards the right

hand of the altar, a glorious and beautiful high seat of marble whereon

the Queen used to sit, when she had a mind to overlook the workmen, to

see whether they went on right; for she loved building mightily, as

appeareth still to this day by the number of her mighty buildings. Behind

this seat are eleven steps, which go farther down mount _Calvaria_, where

the cistern hath been, wherein Queen _Helen_ found the cross of Christ.

Underneath on the altar, ’tis true, there stands one, but it is new, and

therefore to be supposed, to be put there of late years. At the bottom

of the stairs do also appear very plainly the crack’d rocks, as it is

mentioned in Scripture: _And the rocks rent._ And these rents or cracks

are a foot wide, and so deep as to reach from the top to the bottom of

the rocky mount of _Calvaria_.

When we came up into the church again, they shewed us at the bottom of

mount _Calvaria_, a chapel that was locked up, and in it underneath the

altar a large blackish stone with some reddish spots upon it, in the

shape of a piece of a pillar, which was brought thither from _Pilate_’s

house of Judicature, whereon our Lord did sit, when the soldiers did put

the crown of thorns on his holy head, and did salute him as a King with

their knees bended, and did also mock him, spit in his face, and whip

him. This crown was twisted out of thorns, called by the _Arabians_,

_Nausegi_ and _Athausegi_; and by the _Græcians_ and _Latanists_, which

have kept the same name, _Rhamus_, whereof there are three sorts, the

first of which is the true one (which is also common in _France_ and

_Italy_) which doth not only grow without, but also within the town of

_Jerusalem_ plentifully; this puts out early in the spring, into long,

thin and pliable twigs, with a great many long and strong prickles. Just

by it cometh out above from the chancel of the _Græcians_, a path up to

mount _Calvaria_, which they forced from the _Georgians_, as they did

before from the _Armenians_, by giving money to the _Turks_; which is

very common in these countries; for if one hath any business to be done

by the _Turks_, it cannot be easier obtained, than if you bribe them more

than your adversary, wherefore it happeneth very often that such places

are taken away from one nation, and given to the other.

Underneath this way or gallery you ascend nineteen steps to go up to

the mount _Calvaria_, where we saw two chapels one behind the other,

which were open, and had a very delicate floor, artificially inlaid with

flowers of several colours, the like whereof is hardly to be seen any

where else.

At the top of the stairs we left our shoes, and went in, and attended

the Priest, who did also there, as he had done in other places before,

give us a short account of what had been done to our Lord Jesus Christ in

these places, _viz._ that in the hindmost chapel his hands and feet had

been extended, and sharp nails drove through them, and so with a great

deal of indignation he was fixed to the cross. And that in the foremost

our Lord Christ did hang on the cross between the two malefactors, where

there was still to be seen the hole wherein the cross of our Lord did

stand. He also briefly repeated to us the seven words which he did say

when he was upon the cross; and for a conclusion he told us, that his

holiness the Pope had laid there indulgences for ever, for all sins and

transgressions, to be distributed among the pilgrims.

When we had done we went farther into the chapel, and saw first a place

two cubits high, which was also covered with fine ashen-coloured marble,

watered with blue, in the middle whereof was a round hole about a span

over, and was lined with tin, wherein did stand the cross of our Lord

Christ, which is so closely tipped and lined, that the pilgrims can take

neither much nor little of this, nor any other place, as the holy grave,

or _Bethelem_ where Christ was born, _&c._ Wherefore notwithstanding the

pretence of the _Franciscans_, that in their _Agnus Dei_’s and crucifixes

are little pieces of the fore-mentioned places, it is all false and

nothing of truth in it, which they must confess themselves, it being all

covered with marble. Near to this hole, both to the right and left, where

the crosses of the two thieves did stand, in the room of them two others

are erected, where hard by that on the left at the inside, is to be seen

a long and large fissure in the rock of the mount, which the Queen left

on purpose open in the marble pavement, so that you may very plainly see

it, and it goeth down very deep, as I have told you before.

When we came down again from the mount, and come out behind the chancel

towards the gate of the great church, there lieth in the pavement a fine

and large marble, which is surrounded, or taken in, with iron barrs in

the same place, where _Joseph_ and _Nicodemus_, the two disciples of

Christ, did wrap up the body of Christ, after it was taken down, in

linnen with spices.

From thence as we went farther towards the grave of our Lord Christ,

we left below towards the left on the place of sculls, another chapel,

wherein are the graves of some Christian Kings, _viz._ _Gottofredi_,

and _Baldewin_, _&c._ which took the Land of Promise by force from the

Infidels, and came towards the right by the chancel of the _Greeks_ into

a great round and high building of the holy grave, which butts upon the

church, and is below towards it, it standing upon very strong double

marble pillars, quite open: it is covered with lead, and hath at the top

a great window, where the light falleth in, which is four fathom square,

where underneath is the holy grave of our Lord Jesus Christ under the

open sky, so that at all times, both rain, dew and snow fall upon it.

Before the passage into the Sepulchre is a small chapel, wherein is

nothing of any moment to be seen, but a square stone, just before the

door of the grave; this is of the true rock of the grave, about eight

inches thick, whereon (as some say) the Angel of the Lord, that rolled

back the stone from the door, did sit. This was also useful and did

serve to keep the great grave-stone, that was before the door of the

grave (which is hardly three foot high) steady, that it might not give

backwards. That the door was but low, and that the stone did lean before

it, you may sufficiently see out of the holy Evangelist St _Luke_, chap.

xxiv. 12. when he saith: ‘Then arose _Peter_, and ran unto the Sepulchre,

and stooping down, _&c._’ And also in St _John_, chap. xx. 11. where you

read: ‘But _Mary_ stood without at the Sepulchre weeping: and as she

wept, she stooped down, and looked into the Sepulchre.’ And also the holy

Apostle and Evangelist St _John_ came before _Peter_ to the Sepulchre,

and looked into it, and saw the linnen cloaths, but did not go in

himself. And we read also of the door of the Sepulchre, and that the

great stone before it used to be rolled. When you will go into the door

you must stoop very much, and rather creep than go into it. The Sepulchre

within is even with the floor of the chapel, and of the whole church, and

is so large, that four persons may stand very easily by one another.

After the Priest had ended his speech which he made in the Sepulchre, of

the Resurrection of Christ, which we heard without in the chapel, and

had also proclaimed the Pope’s indulgences for ever, we went in also,

and looked upon the rock whereout the Sepulchre was cut, and found it

underneath on the right hand (altho’ it had been very much torn by the

Infidels) still in very good order, so that we could discern it still

distinctly, where now the monks have made an altar, and covered it with

a large fair marble. Over it hung about twenty lamps, which made the

Sepulchre (which else is very dark) very light; one whereof belongeth to

the Catholic King of _Spain_, another to the Christian King of _France_,

and others to other Princes; they look very carefully after them, because

they bring them in a considerable revenue yearly. The holy Sepulchre

is lined within and without with grey marble, and chiefly without some

adorned with carved columns that stand between it.

On the outside of the door of the Sepulchre doth hang a fine golden

piece, wherein our Lord Christ is very artificially wrought, as he did

appear after his Resurrection unto _Mary Magdalen_ first, and afterwards

also to the women: At the top of the Sepulchre is also a small round

steeple, which is covered with lead, and upheld with six double marble

columns: Besides this there is at the back of the Sepulchre another

plain chapel, wherein the _Jacobites_, as I was informed, perform their

Devotion.

More at the left hand, as we went out of the Sepulchre again, near to it

in the pavement, are two large circles, rarely inlaid of _Mosaic_ work,

in the middle whereof are two round stones of marble, one whereof is

white, and the other red, lying in the same place of the garden, where

_Mary Magdalen_ turned about, and took our Lord Jesus Christ to be the

Gardener. Thus much I thought convenient to relate of these places that

are shewn in the circuit.

When I found myself to be in those places where our dear Lord Christ did

walk about, teach, and by his passion, death, resurrection and ascension

work our redemption, and procure and purchase our salvation, from his

heavenly father again, I did remember and rejoice at these incomparable

benefits, and merciful treasures with all my heart; for it cannot

otherwise be, but that every true Christian, that is upon this mount of

_Calvaria_, and thinks there of the cross of Christ, and in the Sepulchre

of his glorious resurrection, must find great passions within his breast;

as you also read in the last chapter of St _Matthew_, vers. 8. of the

women, where you find these words: ‘And they departed quickly from the

sepulchre, with fear and great joy.’ This I found also in my heart and

mind, so that it was, as if I saw our Lord Jesus Christ the Son of the

Almighty God, to humble himself, and to become obedient to his heavenly

Father, even to death, nay, to the death of the cross, to bring us

miserable sinful men to rights again, and to deliver us clearly from all

debts and punishments, and so to procure us the only and true indulgences.

After we had seen mount _Calvaria_, the Sepulchre of Christ our Lord, and

other places, we went into the vestiary again to eat our supper.

After supper they led us up into the gallery, which is in the round

building over-against the holy Sepulchre, to stay there all night; but

some of the eastern Christians sung below in the church, others did

grumble together, and play’d with their sweet-sounding cymbals, (which

were made of pure metal about the bigness of a large wallnut-shell) so

pleasant tunes or musick, that I rather look’d on them, and minded their

musick than slept.

The next morning my comrades, after they had been at confession, and

received the Sacrament upon mount _Calvaria_, came to me into the church

again, with an intention to go round once more. So we saw the holy places

once more, and at last also the chapel, which we left the day before

at the foot of the hill on our left hand belonging to the _Grecians_;

they let us in very willingly, because of our chaplain, who was also a

_Grecian_, and shew’d us in it, at the farthest part where it was pretty

dark, a large and deep crack of the rock; afterwards also on each side

some fine and high tombs of some Kings, _viz._ that of _Gottefrid de

Boulion_, and others, which were for some time possessed of the Land of

Promise; these stand on delicate columns, cut out of curious grey marble,

whereon are some epitaphs, which I thought to set down here underneath,

together with a short relation when they did take the Land of Promise,

and the famous city of _Jerusalem_, how long they were possessed of it,

and how many Kings did succeed one another in it.

_Plants observed by Monsieur ~Belon~, to grow about some of the holy

Places._

_Near ~Jerusalem~ on the ~Mounts~, ~Hills~, and ~Valleys~._

_Adrachne seu Arbutus folio non serrato_, _Picea_, _Aria_, _Ilex

cocci-glandifera_, _Terebinthus_, _Lentiscus_, several sorts of _Cistus_,

_Capparis Spinosa_, _Paliurus_ or _Christ_’s Thorn, Fig-trees, Olives,

Almonds, a sort of wild Peach, _Jujubes_ or _Zizyphus_, _Esculus_

or Dwarf-oak, _Alaternus_, white Mulberry for the Silk-worms, the

inhabitants trading a little in Silk and _Kermes_, which they gather

from a Holm-oak: _Sesamum_, _Gossipium seu Xylon_, _Thymbra_, _Marum_,

_Origanum Heracleoticum_, _Tragoriganum_, _Salvia_, _Stachys_, _Ruta

Sylv._, _Trifolium Asphaltites_; a rare sort of _Hyosciamus_ on the walls

of _Jerusalem_; _Azadarach Arbor in Palestinâ secundum D. ~Monconny~_.

_Between Mount ~Sinai~, Mount ~Oreb~ and ~Suez~._

_Oenoplia_ a sort of _Zizyphus_; _Arbor Lanigera_ or Cotton-tree; _Glans

seu Nux Unguentaria_, call’d _Balanus Mirepsica_, _Alcanna_ a _Species_

of _Ligustrum_, of great use and sale for dying and colouring; _Senna_,

Rose of _Jericho_, or _Hiericho_ a sort of _Thlaspi_, _Colocynthis_,

_Ambrosia_, or Oak of _Cappadocia_.

Some Plants mention’d by _Breynius_, and taken out of _Rauwolff_’s _Hort.

Sic._ or else found in those Countries where _Rauwolff_ travell’d.

_Acaciæ similis Mesopotamica minutissimis foliis, siliquâ integrâ

contortâ, crassâ, & obtusâ; sive siliqua Nabathæa nobis._

_Azadirachta foliis ramosis majoribus ~Syriaca~ sive vulgaris flore

cæruleo maj. ~Perlato~ falso Sycomorus Italorum. ~Bellon.~ ~Astergir.~

~Rhasis~, & incolis ~Zenselacht~ ~Rauwolff.~_

_Horminum Syriacum, tomentosum, foliis Coronopi, sive profundè

laciniatis ~Breyn.~ Horminum rarum foliis laciniatis ~Rauwolff.~ in

Herbar. vivo._

_Lapathum Rotundifolium montis Libani, semine maximo ~Breyn.~ Ribes

Arabum ~Rauwolff.~_

_Lycium Buxi foliis angustioribus Syriacum ~Breyn.~ Lycium Dioscoridis

~Rauwolff.~ in Herbar. Hadhad Arabibus, & Zaroa incolis montis Libani,

ejusdem. In Syriâ & Palestinâ observavit ~Rauwolffius~._

_Lycium Buxi foliis rotundioribus Syriacum vel Persicum ~Breyn.~ Hoc

Lycium apud ~Rauwolffium~ cum priore confunditur._

_Marrubium villosum Syriacum, sive montis Libani ~Breyn.~_

_Melanthium Syriacum minus frutescens latifolium, Rutæ flore, fructu

tricapsulari, ~Breyn.~ Ruta vocata Harmala ~J. B.~_

_Melilotus minima Syriaca. Nephel sive Naphal, Ibenbaithar & Malasesæ._

_Plantago angustifolia minor lanugonisa Syriaca & Cretica, pediculis &

capitulis maturitate ad terram inflexis ~Breyn.~ Leontopodium ~Alpin.

Exot.~ Leontopodium Creticum ~C. B.~_

_Plantago angustifolia peniculis Lagopi ~C. B.~ Plantago quinquenervia

cum globulis albis pilosis ~J. B.~ Catananche Dioscoridis ~Rauwolff.~ in

Herbario vivo._

_Satureia frutescens Arabica folio fimbriato hirsuto ~Breyn.~ Sathar

Arabum ~Rauwolff.~_

_Tithymalus (vel Tithymalo affinis) aphyllos dictus major latifolius,

flore sanguineo aviculæ capitulum repræsentante ~Breyn.~ An Planta

lactaria Xabra & Cammaronum Rhasis ~Rauwolff.~_

_Jacea maxima Hierosolymitana ~Alpin. Exot.~_

_Marum Syriacum foliis incisis._

CHAP. IX.

_Here follow some Epitaphs of the Christian Kings of ~Jerusalem~,

together with a short Relation of their reigns and mighty deeds._

In the year of our Lord Christ 1096, when _Henry_ the fourth was Emperor

of the west, and _Alexius_ the _Grecian_ Emperor at _Constantinople_ in

the east, Pope _Urban_ the second call’d a council at _Claremont_ in

_France_, where they consulted together which way the Land of Promise

might be deliver’d again from the hands of the Infidels. Where it

was concluded and agreed upon, to take the field in common, and for

their general they chose _Gottefrid de Boulion_, Count of _Bononia_ in

_France_. Along with him went many Princes, Counts and Noblemen, _viz._

_Baldwin_ and _Eustachius_ his brethren, and many more, and brought

together an army of six hundred thousand foot, and one hundred thousand

horse; so they went in several parties through _Hungaria_, _Greece_,

_&c._ till they had passed the _Hellespont_, and came into _Asia the

Less_, now call’d _Natolia_, and belonging to the _Turks_, where they

joined again, and took some towns, to wit, _Nicea_, _Tarsis_, and also

_Antiochia_ situated in _Cælosyria_. Yet in these actions were a great

many Christians slain by the way, others were taken prisoners, some were

starved, a great many dy’d of sicknesses, that came by changing of the

air in these hot countries; so that in three years time, for so long

dured this march, there were hardly forty thousand men (as some write)

left, of the afore-named sum that did arrive in the Land of Promise.

These went with their master and general _Gottefrid de Boulion_ before

the city of _Jerusalem_, wherein were a great number of the infidels, to

defend it; yet they surrounded the city, and took it in a little time,

and kill’d a great number of them. When they had taken the town on the

fifteenth day of _July_, in the year 1099, and had reduced it, they

laid down their armors and arms, and went to visit the holy Sepulchre

with great devotion, and chose there unanimously their general King of

_Jerusalem_, who at their request undertook the government, would not be

call’d King, nor crown’d with a golden crown in that place, where our

Saviour that Arch-King had worn one of thorns. After he had obtained

this victory, he also subdued some adjacent towns, _viz._ _Joppe_

call’d _Jaffa_, _Porphria_ situated at the foot of mount _Carmel_, the

_Arabians_ and _Turks_ call’d _Hayphe_, _Tiberias_ and the confines of

_Galilea_. He also overcame with a handful of his men, the Captain of the

Sultan, who had a great number of men with him, and kill’d above thirty

thousand of them. But as nothing is lasting in human affairs, he dy’d in

the eleventh month of his reign, and was bury’d in the above-mention’d

chapel, and upon his tomb-stone is still to be read this following

epitaph.

_Hic jacet inclitus dux ~Gottefridus de Boulion~, qui totam

istam terram acquisivit cultui Christiano: cujus anima regnet

cum Christo. ~Amen.~_

After his decease the Christians unanimously chose his brother _Baldewin_

King of _Jerusalem_ in his place; he overcame with a small number of men

the King of _Egypt_, that was twenty two thousand strong, and kill’d the

greatest part of his men. And when he dy’d in the eighteenth year of his

reign, they chose his cousin _Baldewin_ of _Burgo_, the second of that

name, King. This was a great warrior, and did many heroick deeds with

few men against the Heathens; he overcame and took prisoner _Gatzim_ the

_Turkish_ Prince of the _Lesser Asia_, with a great number of men; but

soon after in the fifth year of his reign, he was beaten in a battle by

the King of the _Parthians_, and carry’d away prisoner. In the mean time

the _Venetians_ and _Genoese_ came with two hundred and seventy ships,

and dispersed and beat the Armada of the _Saracens_, and sunk many of

their ships and took also the strong town of _Tyrus_, so that both by

sea and land there was abundance of blood shed. When the enemies saw

this, that they set the King at liberty again in the eighteenth month

of his imprisonment, for a sum of money; after that he did execute in

the six following years of his reign, in order to an enlargement of

his kingdom, many glorious and famous deeds. He overthrew the King of

the _Ascalonites_, who was assisted by the _Egyptians_, and fell upon

_Jerusalem_ in one single battle, and also beat the King of _Damascus_ in

three several ones, as you may see by his epitaph here underneath written:

_Rex ~Baldewinus~, ~Judas~ alter ~Machabæus~,_

_Spes patriæ, vigor ecclesiæ, virtus utriusque_

_Quem formidabant, cui dona, tributa ferebant_

_~Cedar~, & ~Ægyptus~, ~Dan~, & homicida ~Damascus~_

_Proh, dolor, in modico clauditur hic tumulo._

In the year 1131, the crown was presented to _Fulcon_, count of

_Andegavia_, and son-in-law to the before-said _Baldewin_, who also

obtain’d several victories against the _Persians_ and _Turks_. But in

his time there arose some differences among the Christians, and some

conspiracies, which proved afterwards very disadvantageous to him; he

lost also _Edessa_, a city in _Mesopotamia_, which King _Baldewin the

first_ had conquer’d before, which the _Turks_ took by force from him.

This King left two sons, _Baldewin_ and _Alamric_, and after he had

reigned eleven years, he fell dead when he hunted a hare on full speed.

After him his Son _Baldewin the third_ was crown’d, who also dy’d in the

twenty fourth year of his reign, after he had fought several battles, and

taken some towns. Then his brother _Alamric_ came to the crown, who was a

great warrior, so that he was very fit for this dignity, he obtain’d many

victories against Sultan _Saladin_. But afterwards when the scales were

turn’d, he dy’d also after his return from _Egypt_ in the year 1178, his

son _Baldewin the fourth_, and the seventh King, undertook the government

of the Kingdom in the thirteenth year of his reign. This, although he

was leprous, yet he manag’d his business very well, and defended his

dominions courageously and gloriously against the infidels. And because

he would not be marry’d by reason of his distemper, therefore he marry’d

his sister _Sibylla_ to a Marquis of _Monteferrato_, call’d _William_.

She was brought to bed in the first year of a son, and call’d him after

his uncle _Baldewin_. But when _William_ dy’d, he marry’d her again to

_Guido_ of _Lusignan_, Count of _Joppe_; with this condition, that after

his decease he should rule the kingdom for his son-in-law, and be his

guardian so long until he came at age. But he behaving himself very ill

in the mean while, the King grew so angry with him, that he would by no

means suffer him to live in his dominions, and order’d another to fill

up his place, one _Raymond_, a Count of _Tripoli_. Soon after the King

dy’d before his son was quite twenty years old, and was also bury’d in

the temple of the holy Sepulchre. Within eight months after, did also

die the true heir of the crown, the son of _Sibylla_ his sister, and was

also bury’d by the other Kings; so that we find still on three several

tomb-stones that stand close one behind the other, _viz._

_Septimus in tumulo puer hic regnum tumulatus_

_Est, ~Baldewinus~ regum de sanguine natus._

_Quem tulit è mundo sors primæ conditionis_

_Ut Paradysiacæ loca possideat regionis._

So by the incitation of his mother, _Guido_ was proclaim’d the last King.

_Raymund_ the Count of _Tripoli_, was extremely disgusted at this

election, being that the Kingdom was already recommended to him,

wherefore he resolved to go to war with him, and that he might be strong

enough for him, he made a league with Sultan _Saladin_, to his own grief

and ruin; for when the Sultan saw these differences between them two, he

raised suddenly a great army, and took _Jerusalem_, and the whole country

by force of arms. So the kingdom of _Jerusalem_, after the Christians had

been possessed of it eighty eight years and nineteen days, was re-taken

again by the infidels, not without great loss and damage.

Not long after, the infidels did pull down the walls of the city, turn’d

the churches into stables, saving the temple of _Solomon_, and spoiled

the holy Sepulchre of our Lord Christ, which in all the other wars did

still remain intire, so that only one side of the rock thereof is now to

be seen. This was done by the infidels on purpose to shew us the foolish

zeal we have to conquer and visit the holy grave and city, as if Christ

were still in it. This and other places had been quite demolish’d also,

had it not been for the eastern Christians, the _Armenians_, _Syrians_,

_&c._ which did stop their fury, by giving of them a great sum of money,

and so redeem’d it.

CHAP. X.

_A common account of several sorts of Christians, but chiefly of them

that are always to be found in the temple of mount ~Calvaria~; and also

how these, and many other strangers, are treated by the ~Turkish~ Emperor

(as by their chief head, to whom they generally are subjected) and his

officers._

In the temple of mount _Calvaria_ live Christians of several nations; as

_Latins_ or _Italians_, _Abyssins_, _Græcians_, _Armenians_, _Georgians_,

_Nestorians_, _Syrians_, _Jacobites_, &c. which for the most part are

Priests and Friers, who are of so different opinions in many articles

of faith, that many of them might sooner be reckon’d amongst the

superstitious and hereticks than Christians; wherefore each of them

have their peculiar habitation and chapel, that they may perform their

devotion undisturbed by one another. The _Turkish_ Emperor also lets them

alone, and doth not at all trouble them for their religion, nor endeavour

to bring them over to the _Mahometan_ religion and _Koran_; and is very

well contented to receive his yearly tribute, which is exactly demanded

as it cometh to be due. I have seen many of them in the temple to go

up and down in their peculiar habit, and once I did attend at their

devotion, so that I easily passed away the times that the _Turks_ kept us

locked up in it.

Their Pilgrims resort thither yearly, chiefly against the great feasts

or the holy days, in great numbers to see the holy places, not only from

the eastern, but also from the western countries: Those that are under

the subjection of the _Sultan_, which they are almost all of them (except

the _Latins_ and _Abyssins_) must pay him yearly the fourth part of all

their revenues: He that hath four Olive, Almond, or Quince-trees, must

yield one of them to be the Emperors. So in their harvest, every fourth

sheaf is also his; their harvest beginneth in the beginning of _April_,

and endeth in _May_, as you may see, _Deut._ chap. xvi. 9. ‘Seven weeks

(that is from _Easter_ to _Whitsunday_) shalt thou number unto thee:

begin to number the seven weeks from such time as thou beginnest to put

the sickle to the corn.’ Besides this imposition, they have another;

that is, They must pay yearly for every head that is male, the poor

as well as the rich, one ducat, and sometimes two, chiefly when the

_Sultan_ intendeth to go to war with the Christians; then he beginneth

to lay these taxes upon them a year before-hand, and hath it gather’d

in. He that hath not wherewithal to pay it, is forced either to sell

one or the other of his children to perpetual slavery, or else to give

one of them to the Grand _Turk_, according to his liking to be his

own for ever: And what is more, he sendeth every fourth or fifth year

through all his dominions his Emissaries, _viz._ _Wallachia_, _Servia_,

_Bosnia_, _Albania_, _Colchid_, &c. to fetch away every third son of his

Christian subjects, and they always chuse that which they like best; and

so they bring together a great number, and call them _Azanoglans_, and

give them to the _Janizaries_ to be their servants. These have in some

chief places their exercises from their infancy, that in time they may

be fit to be made Officers and Commanders in time of war. In this the

_Turks_ exercise great cruelty and pride, they spare no body, for if a

Christian doth possess some small matter of riches, he must either keep

it very privately, or else with a great deal of discretion say, That it

is all belonging to his Emperor and him. So if the _Grand Signior_ hath

occasion for any thing of theirs whatsoever, it must be granted him

without any refusal: But what a trouble and heart-breaking this must be

to the poor parents, not only to have their children which are free by

nature, forced to such a brutal way of life and education, but, what

is more, taken away from baptism to circumcision, from the Christian

congregation and faith, into a severe slavery and superstition, wherein

they are brought from their duty to their parents, into a mortal enmity

against them and their other relations, every Christian may with himself

consider.

The _Turks_, where there is choice, take them that are single and young,

because, they being still infirm, and but slightly grounded in their

faith, they are the sooner seduced, chiefly if they are instructed in

their _Mahometan_ laws, and educated therein for a while, for then they

soon forget their own faith, and grow in theirs, and so as they grow up

in years, they also grow in their malice, and become to be worse than

they themselves, as daily experience doth sufficiently testify.

Of the same stamp are also the Christians, that after they have been

taken prisoners in the war, turn _Mamalucks_ (which they call in

their language _Haracs_) and are circumcised. These are free from all

imposition as well as the _Turks_, save only the tenth, but dare not

go away without their master’s leave, upon pain of death; if they are

taken, they are according to their law, without any tryal, sentenced and

condemned to be burnt. And these also are confirm’d and obdurated in

their impious and base life, that they forget God and themselves, never

think of coming home again to hear the Gospel preached, or to see their

friends and relations again. Yet the prisoners are not so very much

pressed by the _Turks_ to deny their faith and turn, except there should

be found one or more great persons among them, for such they always use

to press more, and endeavour to turn them one way or other, and promise

them great preferment if they will declare for their religion; for they

are in hopes, that if they could persuade them, a great many more of the

little ones would also come over with them. If such are persuaded by

them and turn, they are entertained by the _Turks_ very honourably, and

called _Tscheleby_, that is gentlemen, and endued with great revenues,

but yet they do not easily confide in them, or put any trust into their

hands, and do not esteem such inconstant and faltering men in their

heart, although they carry themselves very friendly before their faces,

for they make account, That he that will easily deny his religion, will

also betray his Prince and country if occasion should serve. I have known

in these countries some slaves, whom their masters that bought them as

their servants, did very much press to be circumcised, but when they did

mightily resist, and excuse themselves, and say, That they could not

admit thereof with a safe conscience, and if by force, they should take

away their prepuce and circumcise them, that notwithstanding all that,

they could not circumcise their hearts, and therefore they desired them

not to trouble themselves any farther with them, they were for all that

ready and willing to serve them honestly and faithfully to the utmost

of their power: So their masters have been satisfied with this answer,

and have pressed them no more. But if it should happen that a Christian

should be taken in one of their _Mosques_ (for they, as unclean men, are

forbid to come there) or should dispute with them, or speak ill of their

Prophet _Mahomet_ and his laws, or should pronounce these words, which

are almost written every where in their churches, and underneath their

gates, in their _Arabian_ language, _Leila hillalla Mahammet rasur alla_;

that is to say, _O God, only God, and Mahomet a Prophet of God_, he must

(because they are an epitome of their religion, confession, belief and

laws) suffer himself to be circumcised, or else lose his life. For being

that _Mahomet_ did defend his false doctrine described in the _Koran_,

rather with the sword than with reason and true grounds, that it might

not be discovered, and so his adherents leave him. _Mahomet_ to prevent

this, by the devil’s inspiration, hath strengthen’d it with strong points

and articles, _viz._ That no body shall discourse or dispute with any

Sectaries whatsoever, much less believe them, or read their books, as

such wherein is no ground to be found, because all that is good and true

in the old Testament, testified by the _Jews_, and in the new one, by the

Christians, is by him taken out and transcribed into his _Koran_, and

therefore it must be believed and kept as the word of God, without any

scruple or search; and he that speaketh or writeth against it, must fall

by the sword, and besides be damned for ever.

Who doth not see that this subtile _Mahomet_ did this, that any body

that he gets once into his snares, or that falls into his net, might

be so entangled, that he must be forced to keep there to perish and to

be damned for ever; notwithstanding all his sweet promises of great

privileges, salaries, and permission of _sodomitish_ sins, robbing,

burning, perjury, _&c._ which transgressions they regard but very

little, seeing that according to their Prophet’s promise, if they pray

but often, and wash themselves often, they do not only not hurt them,

but by continual usage of the before-mentioned means, they become to be

cleaner than we Christians from our sins, in the bath of regeneration. To

these traditions of _Mahomet_, the _Turks_ and _Moors_ stick so close,

and believe them implicitly, according to the commands of _Mahomet_;

so that one, although he be of another opinion, because they will hear

no contradiction nor objection, is forced to hold his tongue and say

nothing. And in case you should ask them why they are forbid to eat pork,

or drink wine? they answer and say, That their Parents did so before

them, partly because they are unclean, and partly because they are forbid

it in their _Koran_; or else that if they should over-fill themselves

with it, so that they should bring it up again, it might contaminate

their cloaths, and so they should commit a great rusticity; so that they

know not how to give any reason concerning their religion. Wherefore

their law ought to be called or reputed cruel, and a tyrannical one,

that is rather upheld by the sword than by reason and justice; which

also appeareth from thence, that they carry a naked scymiter before

the noblemens sons, when they carry them about the streets in order to

be circumcised; and also their Priests, chiefly those that are called

_Antippi_, after prayers and sermon, shew unto the people from a high

place, a burning torch in one hand, and a naked scymiter in the other,

to encourage their own adherents, and to frighten those that are of

a contrary opinion; and so _Mahomet_ pretends to his adherents, that

God hath bidden him to conquer all other nations by the sword, until

they confess that there is no other God besides God, and _Mahomet_ his

Prophet; or else agree to pay him yearly tribute, and to be his obedient

subjects; if they follow his directions, his laws will endure so long

as they defend them by the sword. Now how strictly they have hitherto

prosecuted these his commandments, the inhabitants of the eastern

countries have formerly, to their grief, sufficiently experienced, _viz._

_Asia_, _Syria_, the _Land of Promise_, _Ægypt_, _Thracia_, _Greece_, &c.

which they have not only conquered, and to their own great improvement

subdued, but have also infected them with their poisonous doctrine to

such a degree, that in these our times there are but very few to be found

in those parts, that do adhere unto the true religion.

It being so then, that God Almighty hath visited them with these great

punishments, by reason of their manifold sins and ingratitude, for his

holy and sacred word, and that we also are guilty of these and the like

sins and vices, we cannot wonder that the Almighty and Just God, should,

according to our demerits, send also such a horrid tyrant against us,

to terrify us very much, and come so near to us, that we must expect

every moment (except we amend) the like punishments and executions. And

so we hear daily, to our grief, that this potent tyrant is continually

at work, and taketh one strong town after another; and what is more,

they take often in their excursions, a great number of our brethren and

sisters, part whereof they murder barbarously, others they carry away

into perpetual slavery. When they have obtained a victory, and have

got booty, there is ready, and at hand, several Sutlers, that drive a

great trade by buying and selling poor prisoners; these buy them of

the Soldiers, chain them (after they have given the Grand _Turk_ the

tenths thereof, according to his choice and pleasure) together with long

chains, and so drive them away miserably, as if they were beasts, to the

chief trading towns, to sell them with profit again to others, that come

thither from foreign countries. There you find weekly, in their _Batzars_

or Exchanges, many prisoners of several nations, viz. _Christians_,

_Moors_, _Arabians_, _Indians_, _Abyssins_, and amongst them young and

old, men and women, some whereof are white, and others black; thither

come the chapmen and cheapen them; they have liberty to look upon their

naked bodies, as if they were beasts, and to feel them, whether they are

sound in their limbs, or whether they have any defect, which they always

fear. If they like their bargain, the buyers take them home with them

into their small habitations or tents, and put them (chiefly those that

are given to idleness, and have learned no trade) to any sort of hard

labour, and all that they get so belongeth to their master, who disposeth

of it as he pleaseth. Wherefore those that keep many men and maids,

esteem themselves richer for it; and sometimes they marry them together,

and when they beget children, they are slaves as well as themselves, and

he hath power to educate them, and to dispose of them as he pleaseth.

Wherefore the Christians (that to their temporal punishment, they may not

also acquire eternal ones, for their childrens sake) in these countries

do seldom marry, but rather study how to make their escape, if they are

not hindered for want of that language, and by unskilfulness of the

roads; or else they go with their master before a Justice, in their

language called _Cadi_, and there buy their liberty for a sum of money,

or else agree with him for a certain time, and so make a contract with

him concerning their liberty, which commonly those do that intend to

persevere in their Christian religion, or undertake to get something by

their handy-work, that when the time is past, or the money paid, the

Justice may, according to the instrument before made by him at their

request, declare him free, and give him a pass, to shew upon the road,

that he may not be molested. Other ways to get their liberty there are

but very few, except their master should happen to dye, which commonly in

their last will, declare that their bought servants, after the opening of

it, shall have their liberty. Sometimes it happens, that from others they

buy false letters (which are soon found out in these countries) and so by

the help of them get away clandestinely.

But yet that but a few slaves come from thence to us again, the chief

reason is not, as many think, because the _Turks_ press them to change

their religion; for although they sometimes threaten them, as they

use to do, or treat them somewhat more hardly than is usual in their

servitude, as Christians also do very often, but rather their secure

and impenitent life which they lead, forgetting God and his holy Word

to that degree, that they know not how to give an account of their

Christian faith and religion; nay, (what is more) they know not the

difference between these two religions, which are so vastly differing,

although they would, if they did know it, rather suffer death than be

seduced from the true religion, and precipitate the soul, together with

the body, into damnation. When then the knowledge of the truth is gone,

and faith almost, if not quite extinguish’d, so that there is but little

hope left of their salvation, they daily forsake their religion as fast

as worm-eaten fruit falls from the tree; begin to think how to compensate

their bodily suffering, they may lay up and get money by robbing and

burning, and so get privileges, to live according to their own will and

pleasure, like beasts in daily uncleanness; and when they are harden’d

in it, they come at last to such a degree of sottishness and brutality,

that (as St _Peter_ saith) they believe the chief good of this world to

consist in voluptuousness, wherein they perish at length, and must expect

the wages of unrighteousness with the rest.

When the _Turks_ have conquered one or more (which they discern at first

by their fore-finger, which those that have a mind to turn use to shew

to them first, as a token, by lifting of it up over their heads, chiefly

in their _Mosques_) they rejoyce in them mightily, and are clearly of

opinion, That this their work is precious and good before God, and

that their religion is confirmed and upheld by the assenting of many;

wherefore they soon meet together to confirm these turn-coats with their

usual ceremonies, and so to make them true _Turks_. First they lay before

them a cross, whereon they must trample three times, spit upon it, and

repeat every time some words after them taken out of the _Koran_; so

the Christians that will be made _Turks_ pronounce them after them.

When this is done, three of them are ready with their bows, and shoot

together up, and give them before the arrows fall down again _Turkish_

names: then (if they be men) they set them up upon high horses, put them

on their best cloaths, and dress them neatly, and so lead them for two

days together through all the streets, that every body may see them, and

know them to be such as do adhere to their religion, and so to be free to

walk and deal among them without any hinderance. If they are of an higher

degree, and of great authority, sometimes ride along with them some

_Turkish_ gentlemen of quality, in their best dress, accompanied by many

_Janizaries_, who fire here and there in the streets for joy, but chiefly

in those places where they spy Christians. They have with them all sorts

of musical instruments, _viz._ The drums, great drums, and little drums,

(which they beat at the same time both above and below) hautboys, and

others: They also carry in this their procession long streamers upon

long poles, almost like unto them that we see in the cross-walks in our

Frieries; and besides, the rabble that run before and behind make such

a noise, that one cannot hear the other. When all this is over, they

circumcise them at last on the third day, and then they reckon such an

one to be a true _Musulman_, that is, a circumcised one, who hath leave

to go to their _Mosques_ without being hindered, to buy their books and

writings, and to read them, which must not be sold to others that are not

of their religion, upon pain of great punishment, that they may not come

into unclean hands, or to be trod upon as writings of no worth.

Their _Jews_, whereof there are a great many among them, and are called

by them _Choifut_ or _Choifoutler_, excel ours in cheating and cozening

by far, and there is no doubt but they would oftentimes renounce

their religion to make profit: But the _Turks_ envy them more than we

Christians, they do not trust them, they reckon them not worthy to eat

with them as they do with us Christians, nor marry with them; much less

will they receive them as any thing related to their religion, except

it be, that before for some days they have frequented the Christian

churches, and there are baptized, and have often eaten pork, that unclean

meat, that is also forbidden unto them. When they have done thus, they

proceed with them after the same manner as is before-said.

Concerning the Christians that live among the _Turks_, as the _Surians_,

_Armenians_, &c. they have here and there in great trading cities, their

peculiar streets which they inhabit, and they are commonly without in

the suburbs; and thereabout are also small and low churches, where they

perform their devotions. When they begin to be decayed of age, or are

burnt by fire, or destroyed in war time, if they will have them built up

again, they must have leave first of the _Turkish_ magistrate, and lay

down a good sum of money, which grants nothing except you grease them

well.

The _Turks_ (to save charges) suffer no bells nor clocks, neither in

their own nor other temples, nor will they give leave to the Christians

to ring to church with them, so that all day long you neither hear a bell

toll, nor a clock strike. Instead thereof, the _Turks_ have, according to

their _Koran_, their five hours set, which their Priests call out from

the high steeples, and in the exchanges, with a loud voice, and with

stopped ears, and cry, _Alla Haickbar_, that is, _God is true_; and then,

_Leila hillalla, Mahammet rasur alla_; each of them he repeats twice, to

call the people to their devotions. But the Christians have a servant,

that at the hours of prayers and sermon goeth about with a strong cudgel,

and striketh, in every street, on one or more doors made strong for that

purpose, as if it were upon an anvil, several times, which resounds

through all the street.

When the Christians pray, they observe almost the same ceremonies with

the _Turks_, _Persians_ and _Arabians_, _&c._ they turn themselves

towards the south, they speak low in the beginning, lift up their hands,

bend their heads and whole bodies downwards; then they fall down upon

their knees, kiss the earth several times, and pray with great devotion;

which custom the _Jews_ keep also, and that without doubt, because the

Patriarchs used the same in their prayers, as we read in _Genesis_ chap.

xvii. verse 3. and 17. ‘And _Abraham_ fell on his face: _Exod._ xvii.

11. When _Moses_ held up his hands _Israel_ prevailed:’ And in 1 _Kings_

xviii. 42. is said, ‘And _Elijah_ went up to the top of _Carmel_, and he

cast himself down upon the earth, and put his face between his knees:’

And also _Nehemiah_ viii. 6. ‘And all the people answered, Amen, Amen,

with lifting up their hands; and they bowed they heads and worshipped the

Lord with their faces to the ground.’ So did _Christ_ himself, lying on

his face, vehemently pray the third time. If we Christians did but mind

the fervency and zeal of the heathens and superstitious in their prayers,

we should see what reason we have to awake from our laziness and coldness

in our prayers, and to pray with earnestness. There live in _Turky_ so

many Christians, that they inhabit the greatest part of that country;

wherefore considering their great number (to speak according to all human

probability) it would be an easy matter to subdue the _Turks_ without the

assistance of any outlandish power, and to drive them out of their own

countries, did not God Almighty, who visiteth us for our manifold sins,

set them over us as a punishment: For although the _Turkish_ Emperor

sets his Beglerbys and Bashaws, as great and mighty lords here and there

over great provinces and countries, to rule them with great zeal and

severity, and to order all business according to his pleasure, so that

among so great a number of people, and considering their severe reign and

government (where small transgressions are vigorously punished) there

is not easily to be feared an insurrection; yet he could not be half so

strong, without the help of the Christians that live amongst his people,

nor be able to bring together such mighty and numerous armies of good and

experienced soldiers.

The Christians, for the most part, wear as well as the _Turks_ long

cloaths, and gird their loins with fine and soft rollers, some of silk,

and others made of cotton; in them they keep still to this day their

money, chiefly the poor, as some with us, that have no pockets, do in

their handkerchiefs, tied up in a strong knot; the same without doubt

did the ancients wear, as the words of _Christ_ our Saviour, _Matth._ x.

9. give us to understand, where he speaketh to his disciples, and sends

them into the world, saying, _Provide neither gold nor silver, nor brass

in your purses_. (In the _German_ bible, we read girdles.) With such a

one, without doubt, the Prophet _Agabus_ did tie the hands of the Apostle

_Paul_ in _Cesarea_ in the house of _Philip_, when he would make him

to understand, that the _Jews_ at _Jerusalem_ would take and tie him,

and at length deliver him up into the hands of the heathens, as you may

read in _Acts_ xxi. Now altho’ the Christians go as well as the _Turks_

in long cloaths, so that that way they are hardly to be distinguished

from one another; yet they are distinguished by the peculiar colours of

their turbants, which they wear; for the _Turks_ wear white ones, as

also do the _Arabians_ and _Persians_, only these put behind to it a

red coloured cloth, and the others make it up in another form, and let

one of the ends hang down behind to defend their naked necks from the

excessive heat of the sun. But the uncircumcised that have a differing

religion, are not allowed to wear a white one, unless another colour

be mixed with it, much less a green one; which colour being their

_Mahomet_’s, and esteemed to be holy, is not allowed to be worn by any

body, neither _Turks_ nor Christians, (except to their Priests and some

Pilgrims that have been on pilgrimage to _Mecca_) neither in turbants

nor other cloaths. So the _Armenians_ have blue, the _Nestorians_ flesh

coloured, the _Grecians_, _Maronites_, _Surians_, and others have white

ones with blue lists wrought into them. But the _Jews_ have yellow ones,

as they have in our country yellow bonnets; yet when they have a mind to

travel afar off, as into _Mesopotamia_, _Assyria_, _Persia_, or into the

_Indies_, &c. (seeing that the _Turks_ hate them, that so they may travel

the securer, and with little charges) they put on white ones by the way,

and pretend to be _Tschelebys_, or noblemen, nay, sometimes messengers

of the _Cambre_, which they may easily do, because they understand the

languages, yet not without great danger. But they stay not long in a

place, that they may not come to be known.

There are also some _Jewish_ Physicians, which instead of the yellow

turbants, wear red high hats of scarlet, they exceed in number the

_Turkish_ ones, that go cloathed like the common people. They are

commonly more able and learned, because they can read the physical books

of _Galen_ and _Avicenna_, &c. in their original languages _Greek_ and

_Arabick_; which they generally understand. But for the _Latin_ tongue,

very few of them understand that, neither have they any good books in it,

but what they have received in the taking the island _Cyprus_.

So much of the Christians in general. But because I have made mention

of Christians of several nations, that inhabit the temple of mount

_Calvaria_, what places in and without the town of _Jerusalem_ each

of them are possessed of, and with what errors in religion they are

contaminated, I cannot but relate in particular of each of them, as much

as I could understand and learn in that little time.

[Illustration]

CHAP. XI.

_Of the GREEKS._

As the ancient _Greeks_ in former days did excel almost all other nations

in wisdom and understanding, and used to have their children instructed

at home in their own universities in all manner of learning; so in

our times we find the contrary; for in all _Greece_ there is not one

university to be found, where such discipline and learning flourishes

as did anciently; just so is the desire of learning, and instructing

their children extinguished in them. They take greater delight in idle

discourses, and rather love idleness, which they have learned very well,

since they truckle under the _Turkish_ yoke. ’Tis true, they write the

_Greek_ language, but which is as corrupt and different from the ancient,

as the _Italian_ is from the _Latin_. The _Turks_ despise them for their

laziness and cowardise, and on the contrary they love the _Germans_,

_French_ and _Italians_, and praise them, saying, That they are stout

and courageous soldiers; they call them all by the same name _Franci_,

because the divisions of our country are unknown to most of them.

In former ages they had here and there in large and eminent towns,

instead of the Pope (whom they will not obey, nor be subject unto) their

Patriarch, Archbishops and Bishops, whereof some are still kept up; but

after the _Turks_ did take and possess themselves of their country, there

is fewer of them in number, and they have smaller revenues.

Without their country, they have in great trading Cities, as _Cairo_,

_Aleppo_, _Antiochia_ of _Syria_, _Venice_, &c. their peculiar churches,

and chiefly in some holy places in the Land of Promise. As at _Jerusalem_

the temple of mount _Calvaria_, the place of Skulls, whereon _Christ_ was

crucified; and also the beautiful chancel that is in the middle of the

church; wherein is a round hole about a span over in a stone, which is,

as they pretend, the middle of the earth, according to the words of the

kingly prophet _David_, when he says: ‘God, who now is my King from the

beginning, has wrought our selves on the middle of the earth.’ Besides

these, they have another called the Holy Cross, about an _English_ Mile

out of town, which, as they pretend, is built on the same place where the

tree did grow whereof they made the cross of _Christ_. Besides this, they

have a great many more which I reckon unnecessary to mention here.

Some of their church doors are so low, that you must stoop when you will

go through them.

They believe that the Holy Ghost doth proceed only from the Father, and

not from the Son. They keep yearly two great fasts, and they eat flesh

upon the sabbath, or saturday, at pleasure; they sing the mass in their

own language, that every body may understand it. In their churches they

suffer no embossed work, nor carved images, but have plain pictures on

boards, or on the walls. They do not believe in Purgatory, as the Papists

there, called _Latini_, do; nor that our praying, fasting or offering for

the dead can do them any good. And they are mightily displeased, that the

_Roman_ priests do not, according to the plain words of St _Paul_, marry

as well as they, nor give the Lord’s Holy Supper in both kinds, as our

Lord himself did institute it. Wherefore they condemn such errors of the

_Popish_ church, and excommunicate the Pope and his adherents on the Holy

Friday yearly. And because they reckon them to be superstitious, they

will not permit them to say mass upon their altars; but if they should do

it, they accuse them before the _Turkish_ magistrates.

So it happened when I first came over, that they were very angry with

a Papist that had said mass upon their altar, and so had profaned it,

wherefore they did immediately consecrate the altar again, and had the

Priest before the Cadi: and they brought it so far, that he was mulcted

five hundred ducats, to pay in a short time. When he thought that the

punishment was greater than the tresspass or transgression, he did seek

for help at _Aleppo_ and _Tripoli_, by the _French_ and _Italian_

Consul, but did obtain no great matter, so that he was still in election

to pay the forfeiture.

CHAP. XII.

_Of the ~Surians~ that esteem themselves to be ~Christians~._

Among the eastern _Christians_, we also find them that are called

_Surians_, whereof there is a great many, but chiefly in _Syria_. They

have like unto the _Jews_ in several towns their peculiar churches. In

_Jerusalem_ they live in the church of St _Mark_, which stands in the

place, where the house stood formerly, at the door whereof St _Peter_ the

apostle did knock when the angel had delivered him out of prison.

In their religion they follow for the greatest part the _Greeks_; they

administer the Sacrament in leavened bread; and they say their masses

like unto them in the vulgar _Arabian_ tongue. They are a sort of poor

naked, covetous, and helpless people; their gowns reach only to their

knees, as those of the _Maronites_, some whereof are wrought of coarse

goats hair, striped black and white, such as the _Arabians_ make use of

commonly, and almost alike unto their _Mescha_, which they use for sacks

and tents, and they wear nothing underneath them, but shirts without

neckbands, as is usual in all the eastern countries, they wear high

shoes, which serve them for stockings and breeches also, being tied up

with straps. They are subject unto the _Turks_, who make use of them as

labourers both by water and land. They also mind their trade more than

their religion; wherefore having lived so long among the _Turks_, they

have already assumed their customs and manners in temporal and spiritual

affairs, and are thereby become so confident and secure, that now-a-days

the difference between these two religions are esteemed by them to be

small and frivolous. If a Christian hath to deal with them, and desireth,

to buy something of them, either Opium, Scammony, or any other the like

drug, which they commonly falsify, he must look to himself as if he had

to deal with _Jews_.

CHAP. XIII.

_Of the GEORGIANS._

Near unto the glorious city of _Trapozinta_, situated on the _Euxine_

sea, beginneth the country of the _Georgians_, and buts toward the south

upon _Armenia_. These are very civil and simple people, but yet strong

and brave warriors; they esteem and honour among other saints, but

chiefly for warlike businesses, as their patron, the Knight St _George_,

from whom they take their denomination. Their Merchants come very often

in great caravans to _Aleppo_, and are, according to all appearance,

in their shape and posture like unto the _Persians_, only that these

are more whitish, and the others more tawny and browner: they wear also

like them, short flying coats, and long and wide drawers, _&c._ They

have, as the rest, their Patriarchs and Bishops, who, altho’ they are

differing and dissenting in some points; yet for the most part they

follow the doctrine and errors of the _Grecians_, and so they have and

use the same writings and offices. Their priests are, as well as those

of the _Armenians_, allowed to be married; but yet if either of them

should happen to die, they must not marry again. In _Jerusalem_ they are

also possessed of their peculiar places, wherein they sing and exercise

the offices, and chiefly of one in the church of mount _Calvaria_, in

the place near the sepulchre of our Lord _Christ_, where he did first

appear unto _Mary Magdalen_ in the similitude of a Gardener after his

resurrection.

CHAP. XIV.

_Of the ARMENIANS and their religion._

The _Armenians_ possess a large country, which is chiefly divided into

two parts, _viz._ The lesser _Armenia_, which is now subject to the

_Turks_, and the greater, now called _Turco-Mannia_ by some, which is

partly belonging to the Sophy King of _Persia_. In it arise two great

rivers, the _Euphrates_ and the _Tygris_, which run a great way toward

the south, mix together below _Bagadet_, and at length fall into the

_Persian_ gulf, by the town _Balsora_ or _Batzera_. They are pious and

honest people, innocent, but very zealous in their religion, and receive

strangers readily that come to them, and give them lodging, as I have

often found it in my travels. They are also very much inclined to help

and assist the poor slaves that are under _Turkish_ confinement, and

ready to help them out. Their Merchants, whereof there are many amongst

them, are dispersed not only over all _Turky_, but also _Persia_, the

_Indies_, and many other countries; wherefore they have in all chief

towns of trading, as _Antiochia_, _Aleppo_, situated in _Cœlosyria_,

_Orpha_, &c. their peculiar warehouses and churches; and also in

_Jerusalem_ (whither they go in great numbers) the beautiful church of St

_Jacob_ the Greater; and also below near to the place of Skulls, another

chapel locked up, _&c._ and have commonly before their chancels large

hangings, behind which the priests keep separated from the people.

These, although they agree in very many points and articles exactly with

those of the reformed religion, yet notwithstanding they have some errors

worth to be rejected, and some scandalous customs besides. So you may

see them here and there cry over the graves of their deceased friends;

for to give them visits, they go out in the morning early, the greater

part of them old women, and there they make such mourning and howling,

that the travellers that come by (for their graves or burying places, are

generally out of town near the highways) may hear them a great way off.

There you shall see them sit, some folding their hands over their heads,

and looking mournfully; others fetching great sighs, beating on their

breasts; others spreading themselves over the graves, as if they would

embrace their friends and take them in their arms. In the mean while,

their priests go about among them reading and praying, and sometimes

they speak to some of them. When they have done mourning thus, and cast

sorrows from their hearts sufficiently, they sit down together, eat,

drink, and be merry.

They do not at all esteem the Popes of _Rome_, but have their own

prelates, which they honour with great and peculiar reverence; neither do

they believe any indulgences, nor purgatory.

Their priests go in plain habits; they have wives as well as their

laymen; they let their hair and beards grow; they keep on _Easter-day_

a great feast, and soon after beginneth their Lent, which they keep

strictly, and therein, as also on Wednesday and Friday all the year

round, they eat neither eggs nor flesh, nor any thing else that ever had

life in it, only Saturday and Sundays they are allowed them, to refresh

themselves; other feasts and holydays they do not keep any at all. In all

these points, they rather agree with the _Abyssins_ than the _Romans_;

and also in these following, _viz._ That they eat not of unclean meats

that are forbidden in the Old Testament; they admit to the communion

young and old without distinction; they baptize their children in the

name of the Holy Trinity; they believe the articles of our Christian

faith; they preach, sing, pray, and perform all their devotion in the

vulgar tongue, that every one may understand it; they use for the

interpretation of the word of God, the writings of _John Chrysostom_, and

_Gregory Nazianzen_; they dare not, no more than all the other nations

that live amongst the _Turks_, except the _Maronites_, make use of any

clocks, to call people to church, in place whereof they have strong

wooden tables, or some house doors prepared, several in each street,

whereon they strike several strokes with a great cudgel, and so call

people to church.

CHAP. XV.

_Of the NESTORIANS._

Towards the east, are other people which esteem themselves Christians,

and among the rest, chiefly the _Nestorians_ called after the Heretic

_Nestorius_, who was a Bishop at _Constantinople_. Some of their priests

live upon the mount _Calvaria_ in the temple, and there are a great many

adherents to this sect, most of them living in _Mesopotamia_, _Chaldea_

and _Assyria_, but chiefly in the mountainous country of the _Curtans_,

called _Carduci_ by _Ptolomy_, which they almost quite possess, and

have poisoned with their base and obnoxious error, as if it were by an

infectious air; for in passing through, I have found many of them in

their cities, as _Hapril_, _Carcuck_, _Mosel_, formerly called _Nineveh_.

They are strong and warlike people, but full of vices, and from their

infancy given to robbing. They inhabit towards north and east, as is

before said, upon the _Armenians_ and _Medes_; and they are a very

ancient people, whereof chiefly _Xenophon_ maketh mention under the name

of _Carducci_, and are called to this day _Curters_. They speak their

peculiar language, which neither the _Arabians_, _Armenians_, nor _Turks_

do understand; they are of a brownish colour, like unto the _Surians_

and _Maronites_, and wear the same cloth or habiliments that one cannot

readily discern or distinguish one from the other, save only by their

flesh coloured lists in their turbants. The Grand Signior is their head,

whom they obey, and they are kept and respected very well by the _Turks_,

partly that he may not give them occasion for an insurrection, because

they are upon the borders, and partly because _Mahomet_ hath charged them

to be kind to them before others, and that the rather, because he had

a frier of their sect called _Sergius_ for his tutor, who did baptize

him, and counselled and assisted him to make such laws, and to give them

to his adherents; and so you may still see, that they agree more than

any other sect with the _Saracens_. For whereas they believe, that in

Christ, according to his two natures, are two distinct persons, one of

the Godhead, the other of the Manhood. They will not allow, any more than

_Mahomet_, the Virgin _Mary_ to be the mother of God, but the mother of

Christ, according to his human nature. They have a Prelate instead of

the Pope, whom they call _Jacelich_. They bless and give the Sacrament

as the _Surians_ do, and use in their spiritual services the _Chaldean_

language, else they speak the common of their provinces, _viz._ in

their own country, as is abovesaid, their own language; in _Chaldea_

and _Mesopotamia_, commonly the _Arabian_ and _Saracen_ language. So

in _Assyria_ beyond the river _Tygris_, where the two mighty Princes

the _Turk_ and the King of _Persia_ do border upon one another, the

language of the _Turks_, _Persians_ and _Medes_, although they are quite

differing. These and other languages the holy Apostles did understand,

and in them they did speak on the day of Pentecost, when they received

the Holy Ghost, as you may read in _Acts_ ii. verse 5. where it is thus

written: ‘And there were dwelling at _Jerusalem_, _Jews_, devout men

out of every nation under heaven, each whereof heard the Apostles speak

in his own language wherein he was born, as that of the _Parthians_,

_Medes_, _Elamites_, or _Persians_, that of those also that live in

_Mesopotamia_ and _Judea_, &c.’ This sect was rejected and condemned in

the council of _Ephesus_.

[Illustration]

CHAP. XVI.

_Of the ~Jacobites~ called ~Golti~._

In the temple of mount _Calvaria_ also live, in the chapel behind the

Sepulchre of Christ, another sort, that boast to be Christians, call’d

_Jacobites_, after _Jacob_ the Heretic, who was a pupil of the Patriarch

of _Alexandria_. They pretend to have been first converted to the

Christian Religion by the holy Evangelist and Apostle _Matthew_; but they

did not adhere to it, but fell afterwards into a great many errors, so

that in our time they are divided into other sects and orders. For some

have assumed the order of St _Macharius_, who with _Eutichius_ did own or

believe no more but one nature in Christ; others that of St _Anthony_,

who was an Eremite in the year of our Lord Christ 324, in _Egypt_. Others

have their male children circumcised; but others, and the greater part,

have their children baptized with fire, and have crosses made on their

foreheads or temples, according to the words of St _John_ the _Baptist_

in the third chapter of St _Matthew_ v. 11. _He that cometh after me,

shall baptize you with the Holy Ghost and with fire._ They live chiefly

in _Egypt_, and in other adjacent places. They are generally subject

unto the _Turkish_ Sultan, and speak the vulgar _Arabian_ language, and

agree in most points, partly with the _Abyssins_, and partly with the

_Surians_. We saw many of their wives go about in the temple, they wear

hats near a span high, which at top have a broad brim like unto our

bonnets, else they are habited like unto the _Surians_. This Heresy was

rejected and condemn’d in the _Chalcedonian_ council.

CHAP. XVII.

_Of the ~Abyssins~, Priest ~John~ called ~Lederwick~, subject unto the

King of the ~Moors~._

These live at _Jerusalem_ in the temple of mount _Calvaria_, just by the

church door towards the left, and have through their lodging a peculiar

way, so that without hindrance, according to their pleasure they may go

in and out; and pretend that their King hath made a peculiar agreement

to let his subjects have free egress and regress. According to all

appearance they are a naked people, yet for all that they may be rich

and able; they are of a dark brown colour. When we spoke to them by an

interpreter, they shew’d themselves very kind and friendly, and always

did give with a great deal of discretion such answers to our questions,

that one might easily conclude that they were of good understanding, and

well instructed and grounded in their religion. To their King is given,

in the beginning of his reign, the sirname of _David_, which else are

call’d _Lederwick_, and by the _Persians_, _Amma_, to shew and to make

known by it, that they are derived from the kingly race and stem of

_David_ and _Solomon_; and to prove this, they alledge the history of

the Queen of _Sheba_, call’d _Merquerda_, who, as we read in Scripture,

came from rich _Arabia_, with many camels laden with gold, spices, and

precious stones, to _Jerusalem_, to see the great wisdom and glory of

_Solomon_, whereof she had heard much. When she had been there a good

while, and in the mean time was got with child by _Solomon_, and brought

him a son into the world call’d _Meytich_, she left him at _Jerusalem_,

but she return’d into her own country again. Many years after, when the

son was grown up, and came to his understanding, his father, seeing he

had more sons, was persuaded to send him home to his mother, who had a

greater kingdom than he. So he did dispatch him, and sent along with him

the chiefest of his courtiers, and sent him away with a great train, as

did become a King. When he was come into his kingdom, he entertained

these lords and gentlemen very honourably, and promoted them before all

others to the highest and best places, that they might the willinger

stay with him. But all this would not prevail with them, but they grew

daily more tired, and unwilling to stay longer in these strange and

unaccostum’d countries; and this encreased daily more and more, and

at length to that height, that they resolved that, if the King would

not give them free leave, they would endeavour to make their escape

clandestinly against the King’s will to _Jerusalem_ in _Judea_. When

this their design came before the King he was very angry, and order’d

immediately, that a mark should be burnt on their foreheads, that every

body might know them; and issued a proclamation. That all his subjects

might watch them, and if any of them, that were a going away should be

taken, they should detain them, and send them to him again. Now as at

this time the marks did begin, and then those had them that were of a

great race, so they are retained by their posterity to this very day,

as we still see in these times, that their nobility have them on their

foreheads towards the right; yet not all, for there are some that wear

them rather upon their shields and arms, &c. These marks are not all

alike, for in some you see a bear, a dragon’s head, &c. in others a lyon,

a wolf, or three crossed arrows, &c. because every one hath that made

that they give in their coats of arms; they colour it with an oil which

they call _Achalcinte_, and is brought to them from _Greece_. Besides

this custom, they still keep in many things to the ancient ones of the

Jews, for they keep the Sabbath for their peculiar holiday; and also

they do not eat all sorts of flesh, nor any of them that are forbid as

unclean in the Old Testament; they pretend that the holy Apostle _Philip_

hath, when he travell’d with the Chamberlain of _Candaces_ Queen of

the _Moors_ to _Gaza_, and converted him there, allow’d them this and

other things, being born Jews. Circumcision they believe unnecessary,

and that it can neither profit nor hurt a Christian. And again, Baptism

they believe to be necessary, wherefore through all his large dominions

they bring their children to it on the third day, and baptize them yet

with fire, in the name of _God the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost_,

whom they believe to proceed only from the Father, and not from the Son,

according to the words of St _Matthew_, chap. iii, vers. 11. _He shall

baptize you with the Holy Ghost and with fire._ They take the oil of

_Achalcinte_, dip a stick into it, and lay frankincense upon it, and set

it on fire; and so they let some drops fall down, which do not hurt the

children, being mix’d with the oil; and at last they make a cross with it

upon the left side of their forehead near unto the temple.

They begin their _Lent_ about _Easter_, as the _Armenians_, wherein the

lay-men eat nothing else but fruit, herbs, and pulse; but their Priest

generally nothing but bread and water, and so they do every Wednesday and

Fryday throughout all the year. They marry also according to the words of

St _Paul_, that a Priest shall be a husband of one wife; they give the

Lord’s Supper to young and old alike in leaven’d bread in both kinds; and

they confess their sins like unto the _Jacobites_, to no body but only

God. The _Portuguese_ that go to the _Indies_ know them very well, and

love them for being good soldiers, and are glad if they will live among

them, and go out and in with them.

[Illustration]

CHAP. XVIII.

_Of the MARONITES._

Besides all these there is also a sort of Christians, who first after

_Maro_ the Heretic were call’d _Maronites_; who believed that there is

but one Nature, Understanding, and Work in Christ, according to the

opinion of _Macharius_ the Heretic, whom he followeth diligently; but

since they have by degrees left this, and are return’d to the Popish

religion again. And although they are still of it, yet they give the

Sacrament in both kinds to the lay-men, as almost all other nations

do, according to the words of the institution of our Lord Christ. In

all other points they follow the _Roman_ religion more than any other

nation. Their Priests wear over their cloaths black hair vestments. They

live for the most part in _Syria_, but chiefly upon the promontory of

mount _Libanus_, whereupon they have a monastery within a day’s journey

of _Tripoli_, call’d _Our Lady_’s, which is situated underneath a large

rock, wherein their Patriarch dwelleth, whom they respect very much,

and kiss his hands with their knees bended, _&c._ whereof I have made

mention here before. The Patriarchs are still to this day chosen by the

commons, and afterwards confirmed by the Pope; and so this (when he

after the decease of his predecessor, came into a dispute with one of

his competitors concerning the election) did presently, unknown to his

adversary, go to _Rome_, and so obtained in person the patriarchal sea

from the Pope.

The common people are in their shape and habits so like unto the

_Surians_, and their neighbours the _Arabians_, that except by their

turbants none can know them from each other. They are a couragious and

war-like people, very well provided with guns and other arms, as well as

their confederates the _Trusci_; and because they are not subject, nor

pay any contribution unto the _Turkish_ Sultan, therefore they still

keep their bells and other privileges.

They speak the _Arabian_ language, and their books are also written (as

many as I could see of them in their churches) with _Arabian_ characters

or letters, which they always kiss with great reverence when they take

them up, or lay them down, according to the custom of all other eastern

people or nations, as well Heathens as Christians.

They keep a very severe order, and never eat flesh, and on their

fasts neither butter nor eggs, but live upon fruits, as beans, peas,

_French_-beans, and such other common victuals. But yet if any Merchants,

or Pilgrims, come from _Tripoli_, or any other places, they let them want

neither for meat nor drink; nay, they shew themselves to every body so

benevolent (as I have found it three several times) and civil, that one

would wish to stay some time with them. These live not continually in the

temple of mount _Calvaria_, but go often thither on pilgrimages.

CHAP. XIX.

_Of the ~Latinists~ or ~Papists~._

The _Latinists_ or _Papists_, living at _Jerusalem_ in the often

before-named temple, are Friers of the order of the _Lesser Franciscans_;

they chiefly possess the holy Sepulchre of our Lord Jesus Christ, which

they keep in very good order, and read their _Hora_’s diligently,

wherefore their father stileth himself Guardian of the holy Sepulchre

and mount _Sion_. Besides this, they are possessed of more holy places,

as at _Bethlehem_ the stable wherein our dear Lord Christ did lie in

the manger with the Ox and the Ass; in the mountains of _Judea_, the

temple of St _John the Baptist_; in _Bethania_, the Sepulchre wherein

_Lazarus_ had lain four days when Christ raised him from the dead, and

here and there many others. These, as all know, are dispersed in a great

many places and kingdoms; nay, almost thro’ all the world. Their head

is the Pope of _Rome_, who pretends to be the Vicegerent of Christ,

and taketh upon himself so much power, as to prescribe to all men laws

according to his own pleasure, which Christendom finds every day to it’s

great grief. Wherefore in the mean while they are grown into so many

divisions, idolatry, and ceremonies, that they quite out-do all the

before-named nations. But being that they are in these our times so very

well described, that, thanks to God, they are very well known to every

body, therefore I forbear to write more of them, and will only before

I conclude, make mention of these brethren that live at _Jerusalem_,

only in a few points, and say that these that live in the monastery at

_Jerusalem_ are about twenty in number more or less, according as they go

and come, and among them are _Spaniards_, _Italians_, _French-men_ and

_Germans_, &c. that commonly are sent thither by Kings and Princes; but

being that they have more churches and places in and without _Jerusalem_

to provide for, their Father Guardian distributeth them, sends some to

_Bethlehem_ to look after the manger of Christ, others upon the hills of

_Judea_; to the mount of _Olives_, and towards _Bethania_, &c. but before

all others, always two and two into the temple of mount _Calvaria_, to

stay there for fourteen days together. But being that the temple is

always lock’d up, that the Priests that are within it may not want for

food, as well as others that are with them, therefore three holes, one

bigger than the other, are made in the great door of the church, that

thro’ them all necessaries of meat and drink may be convey’d to them.

Those that are thus lock’d up in the temple, do but look diligently after

the holy Sepulchre, and read their _Hora_’s, with singing and praying,

and to look after the lamps; but chiefly those that hang in the Sepulchre

of Christ to illuminate it. There are about twenty of these lamps, one

better and clearer than the other; they belong for the most part to

great persons, as Kings and Princes, whereof they have their yearly

revenue, that is sent them by their brethren; but chiefly from _Italy_

and the _Italian_ Princes, and the most Catholic King of _Spain_. But

from _Germany_, _England_, and also now _Cyprus_ the isle since it hath

been taken by the _Turks_, they complain they have nothing as they had in

former ages; and the most Christian King of _France_, doth also already

begin to forget them, which they have found some years since; and the

number of the Pilgrims doth also decrease, which formerly used to flock

thither in great numbers, and sometimes to reward them, besides meat and

drink, very nobly, which they find very prejudicial to them, seeing they

have no revenues of any other lands or the like.

They receive the Pilgrims, that come in to them, very kindly, and

treat them very well with meat and drink, and shew them all the holy

places, and keep them so long until they have seen every thing to their

satisfaction, and are willing to depart.

They are but very meanly cloathed, like unto poor Mendicants; they live

very privately, and keep their concerns very close, because of the

_Arabian_ horse-men or _Beduins_, that fall upon them daily, and ravage

these countries continually, wherefore they are in great danger. When

they come, you must at least give them meat and drink, if not other

booty, as I saw my own self at _Bethlehem_ when I first arrived there,

that twelve horse-men, with guns, arrows, and darts, very well armed,

came to the gates of the temple, and they were forced to satisfy them,

before they would leave them, and to give them good words besides. So

that they are not only sufficiently plagued by them, but also by the

Sangiacks and Cadis, the _Turkish_ magistrates at _Jerusalem_, who have

continually their eyes over them that are well to pass; for covetousness

is so great with them, that if they can but hear of one that hath money,

they study night and day, how (if possible they can) they may right or

wrong make him punishable. So they lately accused the Eastern Christians

falsly, and punish’d them in some hundred ducats; whereat the Bashaw of

_Damascus_, under whose command _Jerusalem_ is, did wink, in hopes to

have a great snack out of it.

[Illustration]

CHAP. XX.

_Of the Knights of the temple of ~Jerusalem~, the Order of the

~Johannites~._

Having made mention of these, I remember still another Order, that is,

the _Johannites_, or _Knights Templars of Jerusalem_, which did first

begin in the reign of _Baldewin de Burgo_, the second of that name, and

the third King of _Jerusalem_. This Order is more secular than divine,

and therefore quite differing from all the rest, for they need not to say

Mass, nor perform any other devotion; but when they have heard Mass, and

said so many _Pater-Nosters_ and _Ave-Marias_, they have sufficiently

discharged their office. This Order was first invented by his Holiness

the Pope to that end, and endow’d with many privileges, that they might

resist and oppose the _Turks_, and that all Infidels and Heretics might

by them and their adherents, by force of arms, be driven and routed out

of the _Roman_ empire. And that he might promote this design of his more

earnestly, he took in those chiefly that were well born, and had great

revenues (as Princes, Counts, and other Noblemen). So it hath often

happen’d formerly, chiefly when Popery was in a flourishing condition,

that along with the Pilgrims, that had a mind to see the holy places,

and to go to the Land of Promise, many persons of quality came, moved

thereunto out of great zeal, together with them, to see them also, and to

take upon them the order of that Knighthood, in the Sepulchre of our Lord

Christ, as the proper place for that purpose. And besides that, other

considerations there were which moved them to it, _viz._ The high title,

and the authority of the place, and great privileges, whereby they hoped

to be still preferr’d to greater dignities. Now as every one of them

had laid before them to consider these points and articles, which every

one must promise and take an oath to keep them strictly, some great

and potent men found it so severe and hard, as you may see by that what

followeth, that they were not only astonish’d at it, but refused openly

to take it upon them. But what is laid before them that are made Knights,

and also what ceremonies are used in it, I thought convenient to mention

here briefly.

[Illustration]

If there be one or more of them ready for it, that have at the instance

of the Guardian, according to the ancient custom, been at confession,

and also received the Sacrament, _sub una Specie_, under one species, on

mount _Calvaria_, they are with great ceremonies conducted from thence

into the holy Sepulchre, whither are also convey’d some other things that

belong thereunto, _viz._ A fine book, a sword richly tipp’d with gold,

with a red velvet girdle, a chain weighing about a hundred _Hungarian_

ducats, whereon hangeth a golden cross of this form and shape, a pair of

spurs with red velvet straps, which are laid down one by another upon the

altar of the Sepulchre. As soon as the Gentleman cometh into it, they

begin immediately to say Mass, and after that they sing without some

Latin Psalms. In the mean while the Gentleman lieth down upon his knees

in the Sepulchre before the Guardian, until the Friers have done singing.

Then the Guardian bids all that stand about, to say _Our Father_ and an

_Ave-Maria_, in behalf of the Gentleman that is to be knighted. When

this is done, he admonish’d the Gentleman, before he taketh the oath, to

consider upon what condition he is admitted there; when this is done, he

bids the standers-by pray for him once more, and then admonisheth the

Gentleman again, and telleth him also, that hereafter he must be in all

things subject and obedient to the _Roman_ church; that he must fight

and resist the _Turks_ and _Lutherans_ as Enemies and Heretics, so long

as his blood and heart is warm. Then the Guardian asketh him farther,

whether he doth receive all these points, (as they are written word by

word in that book, and order’d by his Holiness the Pope, and subscribed

by his own hand) and whether he will swear by the holy Sepulchre to keep

them. Whereupon he consents to it presently, and promiseth with great

eagerness and joy to keep it with all his heart, and thanketh God that he

hath made him worthy of this blessing, and for having made him capable of

it. After this the Monks begin again a long song; and then the Guardian

taketh up the three pieces, the chain, sword and spurs, and puts them on

him, and so adorneth him as beginning Knight. At last he taketh also the

book, and puts it before him, and telleth him once more what he is about,

and what he is going to swear. When he hath understood it, he kneeleth

down again, and puts out his two fingers, which the Guardian puts upon

the red cross in the book, and readeth to him the oath; the contents

whereof are these:

_First_, That upon his conscience he do swear there to these following

words, Not with a false heart, but that he doth confess out of zeal,

with great eagerness, and with a clean heart, and also swear by God’s

Omnipotence, the See of _Rome_, and his Holiness the Pope, that he is a

good Catholic, educated in that religion from his infancy to that present

hour; and that he never will go from it so long as he liveth, but will

always defend and protect the _Roman_ church against the _Lutheran_,

and their adherents, with words and deeds, so long as his heart is

warm; and that he will never be in a place where any evil is taught, or

spoke of his Holiness the Pope. _Secondly_, That he doth swear by God’s

Omnipotence, and the Pope at _Rome_, and the Cross of _Jerusalem_, that

he is a nobleman in the fifth generation, both by Father and Mother.

_Thirdly_, He sweareth also, that he hath so good income that he need

not to follow merchandizing, or any other trade, nor to borrow money,

or to ask others for help, but that he hath so much that he can live

upon his revenues, and keep three horses besides from year to year, for

the service of the church of _Rome_; nay, if necessity should urge, and

others should rise against the _Roman_ church to molest it, that he will

then always be willing and ready, besides the three horses, to assist

her with all his utmost power. He must also promise that he will so long

as he shall live, diligently attend at Mass, and hear four or five every

day, and also that he will keep the fasts zealously, and eat neither

flesh, nor butter, nor cheese, nor eggs, on them; and also that he will

confess and receive the Sacrament once a month, or every six weeks at

farthest, and send his family at least once a year in Lent-time to do the

same. And also that he will not forget, to the honour and encrease of the

said church, to remember her in his last will; that he will protect and

provide for the widows and fatherless; that he will maintain the Friers

and Nuns, and their monasteries; and if by the Seculars any thing should

be taken away from them, that he will not conceal it, but endeavour to

the utmost of his power, as if it were his own, to recover it again. That

he will assist those that would willingly turn _Roman_ Catholics, and

endeavour to bring them over; but that he will keep none in his service,

nor any ways assist them that do not firmly adhere unto it. Then there is

also inserted, That he will say forty nine _Pater-Nosters_ and as many

_Ave-Marias_ every day, and visit his Holiness the Pope once a year, and

come into the seven church processions and perform his office; and also

assist at the Sacraments and other ceremonies with due reverence; and

also respect and honour the holy water. At length, to conclude, he is

forbid to talk idly, to be drunk, to live loosely, and to commit sodomy,

that he, being knighted, may not lead a disorderly life, and give to

others ill example.

When then the Guardian hath read the oaths that are written upon

parchment out of the book, the Chevallier kneeleth down again, and when

he bendeth his face down, and leaneth with both his arms on the book,

which lieth on the altar-stone of the Sepulchre, the Guardian bids the

Friers and Monks again to pray; then he draweth out the sword, and maketh

with the flat side of it three crosses upon his head and shoulders,

saying: At the command of God, and the See of _Rome_, and for the

encrease of the church of _Rome_, I create you _N. N._ now a member of

the Roman church, a Knight, in the name of the _Father, Son, and Holy

Ghost_. And farther he adds: That in the room of his Holiness the Pope of

_Rome_, he doth absolve him of all his sins; and that he doth also give

him leave, and command him, by the oath he hath taken to his Holiness the

Pope, to wear the usual red cross, as a sign whereby he may be known,

publickly in his coat of arms, and on his cloaths. Also if he please, to

put him in mind, as often as he shall look upon it, what he hath sworn,

and to keep it the firmer. When all this is over, and they have pray’d

again, the Guardian wisheth him joy of his Knighthood, and rejoyceth

with the whole convent that he is come to this acknowledgement, and is

become a true member of the _Roman Catholic_ church: that he and all his

brethren will always pray for his long life, and that God may keep him

in health, to the comfort of the See of _Rome_. Immediately approach to

him all the Monks, while he is still standing in his ornaments, and call

him Brother; and when they have also wish’d him joy one after the other,

the Guardian beginneth the _Te Deum_, &c. and then he taketh all the

ornaments away again from him. Afterwards he leadeth him about with the

Vicar in procession to the holy places, to invest him also in every one

of them; when that is done they go to dinner.

Altho’ in former years every body was not presently admitted (as you may

see by what hath been here before-said) except he were a Nobleman for

several generations; yet in our time it is come to that pass, that they

admit every body to it without any strict examination, that can pay the

money, which amounts to eleven or twelve ducats. Nay, every Pilgrim that

doth intend to take upon him that Knighthood, doth pray and persuade his

companions by the way that they would do the same, that he may in case of

necessity still have some friends to assist him, for his Holiness wants

champions, because he taketh upon him the Civil Government as well as

the Ecclesiastick, that when they can defend and prove their religion

no longer by Scripture, they may defend and uphold it by power and

strength of arms. Now as the Guardian, according to ancient custom, gives

attestates to every Pilgrim concerning their pilgrimage, under his great

Seal, that they may have it to shew, so he giveth also one to the Knight

of the Order of St _John_ of _Jerusalem_, and bids them to carry the

letter themselves in person to _Rome_, to shew it to the Pope. This is

sufficient of the temple of mount _Calvaria_, and it’s holy places, and

the Christians that are dwelling there, of their chapels, and of their

errors.

CHAP. XXI.

_A short description of some Places, Hills, Valleys, &c. that lye near

and about ~Jerusalem~. Of the mount of ~Olives~, and it’s holy places._

I having hitherto briefly described the situation of _Jerusalem_,

and also related what buildings and holy places are still in being,

and to be seen there, after it hath sustain’d so many wars, assaults

and desolations, I cannot but speak of some adjacent places before I

conclude. And so I begin with the mount of Olives, which lieth towards

the east before the Temple-hill, over-against the Sheeps-gate, on the

other side of the brook of _Cedron_, as the holy Prophet _Zachariah_ xiv.

4. testifieth, when he saith, ‘And his feet shall stand in that day upon

the mount of _Olives_, which is before _Jerusalem_ on the east.’ This

mount is about a quarter of a league, or as St _Luke_ saith, A Sabbath

day’s journey, distant from _Jerusalem_, pretty high, rough and stony,

full of pleasant Olive-trees, from whence it hath it’s name, and also

others; as Fig-trees, Lemon, and Orange, and Citron, and _Siliqua_-trees,

by the inhabitants call’d _Charnubi_, Turpentine-trees, and Palm-trees;

the like I have seen but few, _&c._ There are also some good herbs,

_viz._ a strange _Origanum_, _Tragoriganum_, _Roman Mother of Time_,

_Spicanardi_ and a peculiar sort of _Coniza_, &c.

At the foot of the mount they shew us first a great church, between the

rivulet _Cedron_ and the valley of _Josaphat_, which was so cover’d with

earth, that you could see nothing of it but the entry, and before it

without a large place three steps deep. This church was build by Queen

_Helena_, mother of _Constantine_ the Emperor, and call’d, the Sepulchre

of our Lady the Mother of God; to go into it, you must go down forty

four steps. Within it towards the right, there is a small chapel, where

they say our Lady was buried; and therefore, by the benevolence of the

Pope, there is distributed and given to the Pilgrims, full forgiveness of

all transgressions and punishments for ever. Some are of opinion, that

this church did formerly stand even with the ground, and that after the

devastation of _Jerusalem_, when part of the valley of _Josaphat_ was

fill’d up, it was cover’d thus over. This church stands (as _Nicephorus_

saith in his eighth book and the thirtieth chapter) on that place where

the village _Gethsemane_ stood, whereby the garden was whither our dear

Lord Christ did, just before his passion, go with his eleven disciples,

after he had eaten the Paschal Lamb with them, and given thanks,

according to his usual custom, over the rivulet _Cedron_, to regain us

that which was formerly lost by our ancestors in the garden. There he

left his eight disciples, while he went to pray, as the Scripture tells

us; when he took with him _Peter_, _James_ and _John_, the two sons of

_Zebedeus_, and began to mourn, to quake, and to tremble, and said to

them, ‘My soul is sorrowful unto death, stay here, watch with me, and

pray that you enter not into temptation;’ and he withdrew from them about

a stones cast, where he kneeled down, fell three times on his face, and

pray’d to his heavenly Father, where he wrestled with death, and sweat

a bloody sweat, so that an angel must come down from heaven at last to

comfort him. This place is underneath a great rock that hangeth over a

great cave, just at the entry of the valley of _Josaphat_.

This valley is still, where it cometh down from the mount of _Olives_,

pretty deep, and is call’d by the holy Prophet _Joel_, chap. iii. 14,

_the valley of Judgment_; which words of _Joel_ give us to understand,

that the Lord, as he was (when he first came upon the earth) in this

valley taken prisoner, bound and carry’d away to the place of his bitter

suffering, crucifixion and dying, so he shall in his second and glorious

coming, appear in this valley of _Judgment_ again to judge all people of

the whole earth, _&c._ that then the impious shall see whom they have

pierced. _Zacharias_ speaks also of it in the above-mention’d place.

As you go from thence to the mount of _Olives_, you see below towards

your left hand, near unto the bridge of the river _Cedron_, an old

square building like unto a steeple. This altho’ it is believed to this

day not only by Christians, but also by _Turks_ and _Moors_, to be the

grave of _Absalom_, as you shall see them sling stones into it as they

go by, to revenge his undutifulness shewn to his father King _David_,

yet notwithstanding he was not bury’d there, as we read in the second

book of _Samuel_ xviii. 17. ‘And they took _Absalom_ and cast him into a

great pit in the wood, and laid a very great heap of stones upon him.’

Yet for all this, when _Absalom_ was alive (as you may farther read in

the before-mention’d chapter) he erected a column in the king’s dale,

for he said, ‘I have no son, therefore this shall be for a remembrance

of my name,’ and call’d this pillar after his name; and it is still

call’d to this day _Absalom_’s place. Of this pillar writes also

_Josephus_ in the seventh book of his Antiquities and the tenth chapter,

saying, And _Absalom_ did erect a kingly column of marble in the valley

(_Genes._ xiv. it is call’d the King’s valley) that is two furlongs

from _Jerusalem_. Just by this pillar beginneth a very steep foot-path,

which parts a little above it into two, one whereof goeth southward, at

the bottom of the mount of Olives towards _Bethania_ and _Jericho_, &c.

down thro’ the valley that is made by this and the other part of the

hill, call’d _Mashit_ in the fourth of _Kings_, chap. xxiii. but the

other goeth over the height of the mount of Olives out by _Bethania_ to

the house of _Mary_ and _Martha_. A little higher on this hill did our

Saviour sit, over-against the temple, when he foretold his disciples that

shewed him the glorious buildings thereof, ‘That not one stone should

remain upon another that should not be thrown down;’ and did also tell

them at length, the terrible and prodigious signs, that should come to

pass before the desolation of _Jerusalem_, and the end of the world. To

this day we still see into the _Turkish_ mosque, with it’s large paved

court-yard, over the walls thereof so perfectly, that you may distinguish

almost the persons that walk there. From thence, when you go up to the

hill, which is very steep and rough, there is a large plain, from whence

our dear Lord Jesus Christ was taken up, and ascended into Heaven, as

you may see by the words of the holy Evangelist St _Luke_, in his first

chapter of the _Acts_, vers. 9. where he saith, ‘And he was taken up,

and a cloud received him out of their sight,’ and verse 12. ‘Then

return’d they unto _Jerusalem_ from the mount call’d Olivet, which is

from _Jerusalem_ a Sabbath-day’s journey.’ On this place, as _Nicephorus_

mentioneth, did Queen _Helena_ also afterwards build a stately church,

which now is so decay’d, that there is no more to be seen of it but a new

built chapel in a large yard surrounded with a wall. Just by it on a hill

of the mount towards the north and _Galilea_, there is an old and decay’d

building, which was formerly (as my guide inform’d me) an inn for the

_Galileans_, where commonly did take up those that went to _Jerusalem_

from _Galilea_. Wherefore they are of opinion, that some of them were

there in the time of Christ, that also were spectators of his glorious

ascension, as it doth appear by the words of the two Angels, that spoke

to them, and said, ‘You men of _Galilea_, why stand you here gazing up

into heaven, &c.’ But if you duely consider these words, you will find,

as you read it in the _Acts_ ii. 7. that the Apostles themselves were

these _Galileans_, where it is written: ‘Behold, are not all those which

speak _Galileans_? and how hear we every man in our own tongue, &c.’ So

did also the holy Angels speak to the Apostles after the same manner,

and call’d them _Galileans_, rather to bring them, as Elders of the

Christian church, off their worldly thoughts, which they had conceived

in their hearts, of the restoring of the worldly regiment or kingdom

again, which they should have left, and instead thereof look’d upon the

heavenly kingdom, whereinto Christ was ascended, into the kingdom of

God, whereinto they were received as members, which is a more spiritual

kingdom, that doth not consist in outward things, eating and drinking,

_&c._, but in a clean and faithful heart. After this they ought to

strive, and to make it their only business, that it may be notify’d to

all men, and be spread abroad all the world over.

From the top of the mountain, you have a prospect over all the holy land,

towards the north over the valley _Josaphat_, which is just at the bottom

of the hill, into the country of _Galilea_; towards the east, over some

naked mountains, down into a large field which extends itself to the

Dead Sea, that is, as _Josephus_ mentioneth, twenty nine leagues long,

and fifteen broad, whereof the Scripture maketh mention, chiefly the

books of _Macchabees_, and in the second of _Samuel_, chap. xv. where it

is written, That when King _David_ did fly from his son _Absolon_, he

tarry’d in the plain fields until he had intelligence of him. In these

is still remaining the pillar of salt that _Lot_’s wife was turn’d into,

when she, against the command of God, turn’d to look back to the city.

The famous Historiographer _Flavius Josephus_ did in his time see it in

his own person; and the Pilgrims visit it to this day, and beat off of it

some small pieces, as they do every where, chiefly in holy places, and

yet it is found still whole, and without any defect; which did put some

Pilgrims, that went to the Dead Sea, into great admiration. Now that they

might be certain and be assured of the truth of the common assertion,

That whatsoever was broken off of this pillar, was always found whole

again; they did, chiefly one of them, (as I was informed by one that

had been there before) knock off a whole hand, and took it away with

them. Now after they had been at the end of their journey, and came back

again, and went to look for it on purpose, they found it whole again, and

exactly like unto the old one as it had been before. Farther beyond the

plain fields, at the other side of _Jordan_ that runs thro’ it, there

appear the _Arabian_ mountains, that were inhabited by _Ruben_, _Gad_,

and half the Tribe of _Manasse_; they are very high, and afford very

good pasture for the cattle; some among them were much noted and famous

of old, as the mountain of _Seir_ beyond the Dead Sea, mount _Garizim_

and _Ebal_, whereof is made mention in _Deuteronomy_ chap. xxvii. and

also chap. xxxii. of mount _Abarim_, _Nebo_, and the point of _Pisgah_,

situated in the land of the _Moabites_, over-against _Jericho_, which

together with all the adjacent places are very well seen; as well as

towards the west the rivulet _Cedron_, and the situation and largeness

of the city of _Jerusalem_. After we had look’d about sufficiently, we

went down to the place of the village _Bethphage_, which is at the other

side on the ascent of mount Olivet, and belongeth to the Priests of

_Jerusalem_; this is so ruin’d, that now-a-days there is nothing left

of it save only a few foundation-walls. Into this did Christ send his

disciples, to loosen the she-ass and the colt which was ty’d to the door

in the road, and to bring them to him, whereon our Lord Christ also did

ride to _Jerusalem_ five days before he suffered, being the true Saviour.

Before it the mount is pretty plain, and is very rough and rocky, wherein

_Bethania_ lieth on the right hand upon one ascent, of the other part of

mount Olivet, as is before said, but the village of _Mary_ and _Martha_

(whereof you read in the Gospel of St _John_, chap. xi.) is farther out

by the beginning of the road towards _Jericho_, which is still very

dangerous, because of the _Arabian_ vagabonds. In these habitations did

our dear Saviour oftentimes take up his lodgings with them; and in the

same did _Mary_ the sister of _Lazarus_, and _Martha_ anoint the feet of

our Lord Christ with a precious ointment of _Nard_, and dry them again

with her hair; in our days they are quite desolated, and nothing left

thereof but ruins. Near it as you come back again to _Bethania_, in the

plain lieth a large stone, where also you may see the above-mention’d

places very plain; where they say that _Martha_ did meet the Lord, when

he came up the steps, and rested on the mount, and talked with him of the

resurrection of her brother, before her sister _Mary_ did know any thing

of the arrival of the Lord. Wherefore she went back again into their

village, to call her sister _Mary_ secretly, who, when she heard that our

Lord Christ was near at hand, did hasten and went to him, for he was not

yet come into the village, and fell down at his feet, and said weeping,

‘Lord, if thou hadst been here, my brother had not dy’d;’ then he groaned

in his spirit, and enquired presently after the place where _Lazarus_

his dear friend was laid, and went with them to it to _Bethania_ that

village, distant a league, (about an hours going,) or as the Scripture

saith: about fifteen furlongs from _Jerusalem_ on an ascent; wherein

was a small chapel, and underneath it a deep cover’d cave, wherein

_Lazarus_ had lain four days, as you may also see in the before quoted

chapter, where it is in the thirty eighth verse said: ‘It was a cave,

and a stone lay upon it.’ When the _Franciscan_ Friers would go to the

grave of _Lazarus_, they were forced to go through this village, and a

great concourse of the poor inhabitants used to flock about them, and

did surround them, and detained them till they gave them something to

be distributed amongst them; that they might evade this trouble, and

not be necessitated to go thro’ this village, when they go to the grave,

they have made behind at the other side on the height another avenue,

but they do not escape the _Mobile_ for all that, for they meet them

notwithstanding, chiefly, if they know or have intelligence, that any

Pilgrims came along with them to see the grave; so we did find it, for

they came and kept us lock’d up in it so long, till we had given them so

much as did satisfy them. As you come out again from _Bethania_ towards

_Jerusalem_, the Friers shew an old building, where _Simon_ the Leper

did dwell, in which when Christ was at the table, _Mary_ the sister of

_Lazarus_ did come, and did break again, yet several days after, a glass

of precious unguent of _Nard_ over his head, which fill’d the whole house

with a fragrant scent; which pleased Christ so well, that he took her

part against his disciples, and commended her proceedings so highly, that

it is recorded to her perpetual memory. From thence if you come nearer

into the valley between thee mounts of Olives, there is still to be seen

several fig-trees whereabouts Christ did curse one of that kind, because

he found no fruit thereon when he was hungry. Just at the coming out of

the valley near unto the steps of mount Olivet, you see the city again,

but chiefly the mount of the temple and gate where you go up, walled up

in the new wall. From this valley, when our Lord Christ came in sight,

and came down the mount Olivet, the people, as he came riding along,

cry’d, saying, ‘Hosanna, to the Son of David, _&c._’ and a little after

when he came nearer unto it, he lamented with tears also their future

misery, and the terrible destruction of the town, and went in from thence

towards the golden gate into the temple and drove out the buyers and

sellers.

[Illustration]

CHAP. XXII.

_Of the ~Bethlehem~, the mountains of ~Judea~, and their famous places.

Where also is made mention of my returning back from ~Jerusalem~ to

~Tripoli~._

_Bethlehem_, formerly called _Ephrata_, is situated towards the south,

twenty furlongs, or a _German_ mile distant from _Jerusalem_. The nearest

way to it, you go through the gate of _Hebron_, and come to the right by

the upper mote, and the bloody field, up the steps over mount _Gihon_,

where just before you see a cistern with good fresh water near the path,

made of white stones, and well prepared; near which the star did appear

again unto the three wise men of the eastern countries, and led them

into _Bethlehem_. Near it there groweth a Turpentine-tree larger and

higher than any that ever I saw elsewhere in my life. Farther, about half

way, you pass over a hill, at the top whereof you may see both towns,

_Jerusalem_ and _Bethlehem_. Before you is a large valley, which, altho’

it be rocky, yet it is fruitful both of corn and wine. In it, towards

the right hand near the road, is an acre called the _Cicer_ field, which

had it’s name (as I was informed) from the following transaction. It is

said, that when _Christ_ went by at a certain time, and saw a man that

was sowing Cicers, he did speak to him kindly, and asked him what he was

a sowing there, the man answered scornfully, and said, _He sowed small

stones._ _Then let it be_, said our Lord, _that thou reap the same seed

thou sowest._ So they say, that at harvest time, he found instead of the

Cicer-pease, nothing but small pebbles in shape, and colour and bigness,

like unto them exactly. Now whether there be any thing of truth in it or

no I cannot affirm; but this I must say, that there are to this day, such

stones found in this field. For, as we went by, some of us went into

it, and did gather a great many of them that were in bigness, shape and

colour, so like unto these Cicers (by the _Arabians_ called _Ommos_, and

in _Latin_, _Cicer arietinum_) that we could hardly distinguish them from

natural ones.

Hard by it, you shall see still some old ruins of old stones, where first

_Abraham_ the Patriarch did build a tent as you read in _Genesis_ xii.

8. And he removed from thence unto a mountain on the east of _Bethel_,

and pitched his tent, having _Bethel_ on the west, and _Hai_ on the east.

_Senacherib_, the King of _Assyria_, when he went before _Jerusalem_, did

come into this valley with all his might and power; and had by the angel

of the Lord in one nights time, one hundred and eighty-five thousand

men slain; and still to this day, there are two great holes to be seen,

wherein they flung the dead bodies; one whereof is hard by the road

towards _Bethlehem_, the other towards the right hand over-against old

_Bethel_; which town fell to the children of _Benjamin_, and is called

still to this day _Bethisella_, and is situated half a league farther

towards the west, at the foot of the hill, in a very fruitful country.

There did _Jacob_ the Patriarch when he fled from his brother _Esau_, see

in his sleep the ladder which reached up into heaven, whereon the holy

angels ascended and descended, wherefore he erected there a stone for a

mark, and called the place _Bethel_, which was called _Luz_ before, as

you may read in _Genesis_ xxviii. As you come nearer to _Bethlehem_, you

see the grave of _Rachel_ at your right hand near the road, which _Jacob_

did erect there, when his wife died in labour with _Benjamin_, as you

read in _Genesis_ xxxv. 16. ‘And they journeyed from _Bethel_, and there

was but a little way to come to _Ephrath_:’ and verse 18. ‘And it came

to pass as her soul was in departing (for she died) that she called his

name _Benoni_; but his father called him _Benjamin_; and _Rachel_ died,

and was buried in the way _Ephrath_, which is _Bethlehem_. And _Jacob_

set a pillar upon her grave; that is the pillar of _Rachel_’s grave unto

this day.’ Before you come quite thither, there is just by without it,

on the left, a good rich cistern, which is deep and wide. Wherefore the

people that go to dip water, are provided with small leathern buckets and

a line, as is usual in these countries; and so the Merchants that go in

carravans through great desarts into far countries, provide themselves

also with these, because in these countries you find more cisterns or

wells, than springs that lie high. This was formerly under the gates of

_Bethlehem_, whereof King _David_ longed to drink; wherefore his three

champions did break into the camp of the _Philistines_, and did dip some

water out of the well, and brought it to the King; but the King would

not drink of it for certain reasons, as you may read in _Samuel_ chap.

xxiii, and in I. _Chronicles_ chap. xii. From thence we went by the path

of the mount into _Bethlehem_ the town of _David_, where he was born and

anointed King by the Prophet _Samuel_; it lieth upon an ascent, it’s

buildings, town walls and towers are so decayed, that now it is quite

open, and nothing at all to be seen, except the well and monastery, but

ruined cottages.