CHAP. I.
_A short description of his departure from ~Tripoli~, a town of
~Phœnicia~ in ~Syria~, and how he went from thence to ~Joppa~._
After my return to _Tripoli_, when I found myself near to the confines
of _Canaan_, the land of promise, promised and given to the _Israelites_
by the Lord of _Zebaoth_, and considered, that our long before promised
_Messias_, Lord and Saviour of the _Gentiles_ was there, according
to the prophecies of the prophets born in _Bethlehem_ of the virgin
_Mary_, and by the _Jews_ suffered the shameful death of crucifixion
at _Jerusalem_ on the mount of _Calvaria_, and afterwards was laid in
the new tomb of _Joseph_ of _Arimathea_, that was cut out of a rock,
_&c._ I found in me a great desire to see these and other the like holy
places: Not that I thought still to find there _Christ_ our Lord, as
the two young men _Peter_ and _John_ and the three _Maries_ did, but to
exercise my outward senses in the contemplation thereof, that I might
the more fervently consider with my inward ones his bitter passion,
death, resurrection and ascension, and to appropriate to myself, and to
apprehend the better, and to make my own, by faith and firm confidence,
_Christ_ our Lord himself together with his heavenly gifts and treasures,
as he has manifested himself in the holy scriptures; wherefore I was
fully resolved to look out for fellow travellers to accompany me in
this journey before I returned home again. I staid not long in quest of
company, but quickly met four Pilgrims that came out of the Low Countries
that had the same intention; there also came to us a _Grecian_ Monk of
the order of the _Carmelites_ whom I knew before when he lived with his
master, that I cured of a very dangerous distemper, and desired to go in
company with us. So we agreed together, and bespoke a small _Turkish_
vessel with eight oars, by them called _Caramusala_ whereof there were
many in the harbour, that wait constantly for travellers, goods and
provision, to be carried into the neighbouring towns and provinces,
_viz._ to _Antiochia_, _Caramania_, anciently called _Cilicia_, _Cyprus_,
_Baruthi_, _Caramania_, or quite into _Egypt_. We bought some biskets,
cibets, eggs, cheese, pompions, which the _Arabians_ call _Batticas_,
_Margeropfel_, oranges, good wine, _&c._ which we had occasion of for
our journey, of which as much as would last us eight days; for the
ship-masters do not willingly land, chiefly with Pilgrims, because of
the great customs the roguish _Turks_ demand unjustly from us Christians
every where, until we arrive at our designed stations.
After we had thus fitted ourselves, and got a good wind, we went
aboard the ship on the seventh of _September_, in the year 1575, and
put off, and came before night to the point _Capugio_, to the village
_Aniffe_, anciently called _Neuphrus_, which was in former ages very
well fortified, as still appeareth by some remainders to this day. This
village is pretty big, but every where open, that one might easily
take it with a handful of men; it is situated on the foot of mount
_Libanus_, which is very high there, and reacheth unto the sea. It is
chiefly inhabited by _Maronites_, as are also many more villages of this
mountain, chiefly those that lie in vallies towards _Aleppo_, where
I have inned many times when I went through it, and was very kindly
received; they keep very good wine by them, which the _Turks_ know very
well, and come there very often for it, altho they are forbidden (by the
laws of their Mahometan Koran) to satisfy their desire. These _Maronites_
are Christians, and speak the _Arabian_ language, and have their
Patriarchs, which are first chosen by the people, and then confirmed by
the Pope. After we had went on from thence very well all night long, all
along the steep mountainous shore, and had made the utmost point of the
promontory of _Baruthi_, we saw in the morning a far off, that famous
town lying behind it, where formerly great commerce has been drove,
well fortified with strong towers towards the sea, and surrounded with
fruitful orchards and vineyards. In this, and also in more adjacent
towns and villages, live a very warlike people, called _Trusci_, very
nimble and expert in shooting with guns and bows, and call themselves
the posterity of the ancient _Frenchmen_, which took and possessed
many years agone, under _Godfrid_ and _Baldwin_, _Jerusalem_, and all
the Land of Promise. They are still a free people to this day, and not
subject unto the Great Sultan as others are; wherefore he hath many times
attempted to bring them under his yoak. And in order thereunto he did
send in the year 1574 last past, a great army consisting of two hundred
thousand horse and foot to subdue them; but what harm he did them I have
already mentioned in the preceding part of this Journal. They are very
willing to accommodate and serve outlandish Christians, as _Germans_,
_Frenchmen_ and _Italians_, whereof they make no difference, and to
take them up into their habitations, and to shew them all civility and
kindness; nay, and what is more, to assist them according to their utmost
power against the common enemy of Christendom, as we have formerly found
indeed before _Cyprus_ was taken by the _Turks_; for after they were
informed that some _Italian_ gallies were to arrive to make an incursion
into the adjacent towns and places, chiefly to plunder _Tripoli_, they
raised seven thousand men very well armed to help them, and to come to
their assistance, some of which did then appear and shew themselves on
the frontiers; but finding that their gallies did not arrive, they also
returned home again, and left their design unaccomplished. The _Trusci_
have a head called _Ermin Mackfur_, that is, a judicious man, and a
very experienced soldier, whom they acknowledge to be their supreme
governor, and are obedient to him; he liveth in a castle on the bottom
of the mountain not far from the town we went by; he taketh great pains,
chiefly now after the _Turkish_ war, and maketh great provision to keep
the country in peace and security. He also keepeth good correspondence
with the neighbouring people, chiefly the _Maronites_, that have lived
long before in these mountains, with whom he hath lately renewed the
old confederacy again, as I know very well, and their Patriarch himself
was with him, before I was called to cure him of his distemper. He also
leaveth no stone unturned to get in with others, and to make them his
confederates; so that he hath already secured to himself the _Syrians_,
which are also Christians, yet not without gross errors, by paying to
them a yearly pension. These speak also _Arabick_, and are very like unto
them in shape, manners, fashion and cloaths; and I found two of them
among our seamen, that confirmed this to me.
After we had gone on a great while, and were passed by the point of the
promontary of _Barnti_, which extendeth itself far into the sea, our
ship-master, who was a _Turk_, and understood the _Arabian_ language,
shewed me a village lying beyond it, called _Burgi_, and told me, that
that was also inhabited altogether by _Harani Quibir_, that is, great
robbers and murtherers, as they always call these people. But I being
better informed beforehand, I prayed by myself that God would be pleased
to let the poor slaves that live in hard servitude under the _Turks_, who
were these they call _Harani_; and I do not at all question, but they
would soon take their refuge to them to make themselves free of their
servitude, as those might easily do, that live about these countries in
_Syria_.
We saw also upon the shoar some ancient towers, and among them chiefly
two, which are renewed again, wherein the _Trusci_ keep watches to
observe the pirates, but the others whereof there are a great many not
above a league distant from one another, are for the greatest part by age
decayed. Some say that they were formerly built by the potent Emperors,
that if any nation should rise up in rebellion, they might immediately
give notice thereof to _Constantinople_. These gave notice, before guns
were invented, in the night by a flaming fire, and by day-time by a great
smoak. And they still keep to this in many places, altho’ guns are now
invented.
In the afternoon we were becalmed, and so our journey went on but slowly,
we saw late at night a small village called _Carniola_ upon the height:
and soon after at the foot of the high mount of _Libanus_, southward of
the city of _Sidon_, by the inhabitants still called _Scida_, which is
not very great, but as far as I could see, very well built, and defended
by two castles, one whereof is situated towards the north on a high rock,
the other on a little hill. Those that are going to _Saphet_, which is
a day’s journey distant from it, land there. Before we could reach it,
night befel us, and brought contrary winds, which hindered us so much,
that we could hardly reach the glorious and rich town of _Tyrus_, now by
the inhabitants called _Sur_, which lieth in a manner close to it, until
the next morning. This is still pretty large, and lieth on a rock in the
sea, about five hundred paces distant from the shoar of _Phœnicia_. In
former ages _Alexander_ the Great did besiege it for seven months, and
during the siege he filled up the streight of the sea, and did join
it to the continent, and after he had taken it, he laid it into ashes,
so that punishment was inflicted on the inhabitants which the Prophet
_Esaias_ denounced against them four hundred years before.
On the confines of _Tirus_ and _Sidon_, that _Cananean_ woman came to
_Christ_ on behalf of her daughter that was possessed of an unclean
spirit, whereof the Lord, seeing her faith, did deliver her immediately.
Just before it, we heard a great noise of large running springs, which
rise within the country with so great a vehemency, that they drive
several mills. Within a large distance from thence, we saw a very fine
new house called _Nacora_.
Two miles farther near mount _Saron_ within, southward, we saw a large
village called _Sib_, without it in the sea round about were several
banks and rocks, behind which we hid ourselves, the wind being contrary,
and staid for a more favourable one; in the mean while, some of our men
got out among the rocks to catch fish, and to find oisters, where they
also gathered so much sea-salt, that they filled up a great sack with it.
Between this and mount _Carmelo_, which are eight leagues distant,
and run out a great way into the seas, lieth almost in the middle
thereof, as it were in a half moon, the famous town of _Acon_, anciently
called _Ptolemais_, on a high rocky shoar, which some years ago, when
_Baldewin_, the brother of _Gotefrid_, first, and _Guidon_ after him, did
possess themselves of the Holy Land, was not without great loss of many
men taken by them, from _Saladine_ King of the _Saracens_ in _Ægypt_,
which had (after some obtained victories) surrendered itself again a
second time, after a long siege. This town hath very good fields of a
fertile soil about it, and is at this time, together with the Land of
Promise and others, (to the great grief of the Christians) subjected
under the yoak and slavery of the _Turkish_ Emperor.
The next day the wind favouring us, we hoisted up our sails, and got
out at sea, with less danger to get before the point of the mountain,
but our design was frustrated; for about noon a contrary wind arose,
which did not only hinder us in our course, but violently drove us back
again, so that we were forced to have recourse to our old shelter behind
the rocks again. After midnight when it began to be calm, and another
wind arose, we put out two hours before break of day, and went along the
shore towards the town _Hayphe_, formerly call’d _Caypha_ or _Porphyria_,
four leagues beyond _Acon_, lying just within mount _Carmel_, where on
the evening when we came very near it, several frigats came out of all
sides to surround us. As soon as the master of our ship perceived them,
he did not like it, wherefore he let fall his sails, and exhorted his
men to ply their oars to get clear of them. When they saw they could not
reach us, they left their design and went back; but we landed without
on that mount _Carmelo_, to put out again in the night. This mountain
is very high and famous in Scripture; for we read in the third book of
the _Kings_, and the eighteenth chapter, that the holy Prophet _Elias_
call’d before him upon the hill the people of _Israel_, the four hundred
and fifty of _Baal_’s priests, and the four hundred of _Hayns_, to chide
them for their idolatery; where also God heard him, and consumed his
sacrifice by fire that came down from Heaven; but the priests of _Baal_
were not only not heard by their idols, but kill’d as idolaters near the
river _Kison_; and also in the fifth of the epistle of _James_; that
after the Heavens had been lock’d up for the space of three years and an
half, _Elias_ did pray to God on this mount, and the Lord heard him, and
let rain fall down upon the dry and barren earth. From this mountain,
the (presumed) holy order of the _Carmelites_ taketh it’s name, which
was first there endowed with several privileges by Pope _Innocent_ the
third, and _Albert_ the Patriarch of _Jerusalem_, in the year 1205; and
afterwards when they were encreased to a great number, under pretence of
greater holiness, confirmed by the name of _The Brothers of our Lady_,
by Pope _Honorius_ the third, in the year 1226. These pretend to be the
followers of the doctrine of _Cyrillus_, wear daily black girded coats,
and over them, when they say mass, white Monks habits. Some years ago
without doubt, have a great many of this order lived hereabouts, as still
to this day doth appear, by their cloisters and churches, which by age
are so mightily decay’d, that they are left deserted and uninhabited.
This mountain is also round about towards the sea-coast very bare and
rough, that we may very well say with the holy Prophet _Amos_, _That
the pastures of the herdsmen shall look miserably, and the top of the
mountain dry up_.
The town _Hayphe_ lieth at the bottom of the mount _Carmelo_, is pretty
large but very ill built, and the houses are so decay’d, that half of it
is not fit to be inhabited. _Salidinus_, King of the _Saracens_, who in
his time carry’d on long and heavy wars against the Christians, and was
almost hardly able to resist them, caused the walls of it, and also that
of _Cæsarea_ in _Palestina_, and others of less strength, to be pull’d
down, that his enemies might not find any place of reception against him.
Out of this port, as we were afterwards inform’d, was a little time
before taken away a pretty large and richly loaden ship by some pirates,
which vexed the inhabitants very much, and being that the Christians
chiefly were much suspected by them, they had a great desire to revenge
it upon them again; so that we, had not our master been very honest,
should have suffered for the loss they had sustain’d.
After we had lain there at anchor till after midnight, not without
danger, as you may imagine, our master made haste to get out to sea,
although it was very calm, in hopes to get good weather. After they had
wrought very hard, a good wind arose behind us towards the morning, and
drove us along, so that we got soon about, and pass’d the point of the
mountain, and saw the country on the other side, which was above on the
height so pleasant, green and shady, that there in a village resides a
_Turkish_ Sangiack for pleasure’s sake.
Nor far from thence lieth the castle of the Pilgrims in the sea, by the
inhabitants call’d _Altlit_, where most of them touch that take their way
through _Galilæa_ and _Nazareth_ to _Jerusalem_. This hath been in former
ages so well fortify’d with walls and bastions, that it was thought to be
impregnable; but now it is on two sides towards the sea so demolish’d and
destroy’d, that one may very reasonably guess, that it hath been formerly
taken by storm.
The wind still encreasing more and more, we went on with such a
swiftness, that although two little ships pursued us towards morning,
yet they were forced to leave us, and so we soon passed the castle, and
came towards _Dor_, three leagues distance from thence; it lieth near
mount _Carmel_ in the country of _Phœnecia_, as _Josephus_ testifieth;
and it is so decay’d that there is nothing more extant than a large and
high tower, which the inhabitants still call _Dortaite_. In this country
when the Jews took _Canaan_ the Land of Promise, they let the inhabitants
remain, as you may read in the first chapter of the _Judges_.
At a leagues distance from thence, you see the ancient and famous town
_Cæsaria_ of _Palestine_, situated by the sea on a high bank, which King
_Herod_ did renew; and call’d it after the Emperor _Cæsarea_, which still
to this day, among the _Turks_ and _Moors_, retaineth it’s ancient name
_Kæsarie_. In this town did live the pious centurian _Cornelius_, who
was baptized there with his whole family by _Peter_ the Apostle, who was
call’d thither from the town _Joppe_. There did also live _Philip_ the
Evangelist, one of the seven Deacons, into whose house the holy Apostle
_Paul_ did go, and staid there some days; where also the Prophet _Agabus_
did foretel him, That he was to be made a prisoner at _Jerusalem_. Now
although this town in those days was very well built, as one may still
see by the important and stately antiquities that are still remaining
there, yet now in our times it is in walls and buildings so mightily
decay’d, that it is hardly fit to be inhabited, much less to be defended,
or to make any resistance. And for all that it is still pretty large, but
so lonesome and so depopulated, that we could hardly see any body in the
large and broad streets thereof as we passed by.
For some leagues before, or about it, I saw nothing remarkable, only a
_Turkish_ Mosque, or church, in the height upon a hilly shore, where they
meet to worship _Mahomet_.
When the evening broke in, we had still ten leagues to sail to the port
or harbour of _Joppe_, where the pilgrims use to go ashore to travel by
land to _Jerusalem_, yet the wind drove us on with such a force, that we
got into it two hours after sun-set.
CHAP. II.
_A short relation of my travels by land from the harbour of ~Joppe~, to
the city of ~Jerusalem~._
In the morning early as soon as the day did appear, which was the
thirteenth day of _September_ 1575, we got on shore, and dispatch’d
immediately some to the town of _Rama_, two leagues distant from thence,
to get us a safe conduct or pass, from the Sangiack, and to bring along
with them some Mockeri, or ass-driving carriers, to provide us carriage
to _Jerusalem_. In the mean while we stay’d upon the high rocky shore,
where the town _Joppe_ did stand formerly, which at this time was so
demolish’d that there was not one house to be found, where the pilgrims
at their arrival could shelter themselves, save only three large vaults,
which went very deep into the hill, and extended themselves towards the
sea. Into these are sometimes the Pilgrims let in, but being that at that
time, a great deal of corn was laid up there, whereunto they still daily
added, on purpose to supply _Constantinople_ during the scarcity, it was
forbidden that any body should be let in.
The town _Joppe_, by the inhabitants call’d _Japha_, is by it’s old
name very well known to us, by the books of the Prophets and Apostles,
_&c._ where we read, That the Prophet _Jonas_, when the Lord bid him to
preach to the _Ninevites_ desolation and destruction, for fear did retire
thither, and there took ship, where he was thrown out into the seas in
the great storm and tempest, and swallow’d up by a great fish; and after
he had been there for three days and nights he was vomited out again.
And we read also in the _Acts of the Apostles_, in the ninth and tenth
chapter, from _Peter_ the Apostle, That he lay, or tarry’d, for a while
at the house of _Simon_ the Tanner, where he raised the sister _Tabitha_
from the dead, _&c._
_Joppe_ at that time was very well built and fortify’d, which doth
appear, because a good many of the Jews did, at the time of the
desolation of _Jerusalem_, retire thither, to defend themselves against
the might of the _Romans_, although it was but in vain; for being that
the time of the punishment, that was to befall them, was at hand, the
city therefore was two several times one after another, besieged and
taken, and demolish’d, and as _Josephus_ testifieth, about 12600 Jews
were kill’d in it. We also read, That after the time of _Gotfrid de
Boullion_, when the Christians lost again the Land of Promise, that
then this town was also retaken again by the infidels, and razed to the
foundations; so that now there are no antiquities at all to be seen. And
I should have doubted very much whether there did ever stand such a town
there, had I not seen some large pieces of the ancient town walls still
remaining, which are so near to the sea, that there is hardly room to go
at the outside of them.
Hard by this I suppose was the habitation of _Simon_ the Tanner, where
_Peter_ sojourn’d, because the Evangelist St _Luke_ saith, That it was
near to the sea shore.
Above it on the height stand two towers, where some watchmen attend to
look after the vaults and ships in the harbour, that they may not be
assaulted by the pirates; this harbour, although it is surrounded with
rocks and banks, yet it is but very slightly secured, and very narrow and
shallow, so that ships of any great bulk or heavy laden, cannot ride in
it.
Near to them groweth the _Hemerocallis_, which I have also found about
_Montpelier_ and _Aigemort_ near to the sea. And also in the adjacent
moist and mashy meadows, I found a delicate kind of _Limonium_ which
hath about ten or twelve _Aspleniun_ or _Cetarach_ leaves on both sides;
these proceed from a long root of a brown colour without, and red within;
between them sprout out two three-square stalks, about a cubit high, with
a great many joints, that have three long small leaves, and are adorn’d
at the top with beautiful and stately blue and purple colour’d flowers;
they are of a drying nature, and the inhabitants use to eat them in
sallads.
Presently after dinner our men return’d, and brought along with them
the pass and the carriers; our master of the ship left some of the crew
in his _Caramusala_ to look after it in our absence; we mounted and
went away, and came soon into the plain fields where _Jonathas_, slew
_Apollonius_ the Captain, as is said in the first of _Maccabees_ the
tenth chapter.
Soon after we saw a pleasant village call’d _Jasura_, and when we came
a little nearer, a camp of a great _Turkish_ Lord, who sent (as soon
as he espy’d us on the road, and found that we were pilgrims) some of
his men to us, to call us before him, and also to tell us, That he was
one of them to whom the Grand Sultan had given charge of the Temple and
the mount _Calvaria_, with strict order to let no Pilgrim in before
they had paid a certain sum of money. So we went along with them, and
appeared before him in his tent, put our right hand on our breast,
bended ourselves forwards, and made him, according to their custom, his
compliments. After he had look’d upon us for a great while, he bid his
men to receive the money of us; so each of us paid him nine ducats that
had their full weight, except the _Grecian_ who paid only five, and at
their request we staid with them all night, because their master intended
to send a Janizary with us the next day, to let us into the temple. This
Lord, who was an Eunuch, had a great many offices; for in these countries
they are by the great ones, as Bashaws, Sangiacks, Cadees, _&c._ so much
esteem’d, that in their absence they make them stewards over all their
goods and chattels, wives and children, _&c._
At that time he was there to gather great quantity of corn from these
fruitful countries, it being harvest time, and to send it from thence to
_Joppe_, to go by sea for _Constantinople_.
After midnight we mounted again, and came early in the morning to the
town _Rama_, and went into the house of the pilgrims, which _Philip_
Duke of _Burgundy_ bought, and gave it to the Pilgrims as their inn.
This is very large, and hath a great many arched chambers within, and
a fine well; within the inner court is a pretty large place, all grown
over with green Aloës, the juice whereof is brought over to us in large
pieces, from the eastern countries, and is very useful in many tedious
distempers; _Nicodemus_ did also bring with him, together with myrrh, to
the quantity of one hundred pounds, to the grave of _Christ_ our Lord,
to bury his body decently according to the Jewish fashion, as you may
read in the nineteenth chapter of St _John_. Here we staid almost three
days, and had all along enough to do to agree with the Cadi, Subashaw,
Clerks, Janizaries and Paityfs, _&c._ about our free passage; so unjust,
malicious, and infidel a people are they, that one would hardly believe
it.
The town is situated on an ascent in plain fields, as is before said,
which extend themselves for two leagues to the hill of the city of
_Jerusalem_. These fields are very fruitful, and very well till’d
and sown with corn, cotton, and _Indian_ millet. Hereabouts do also
grow _Indian_ muskmelions in great quantity, by the _Arabians_ call’d
_Batiere_, which are very pleasant and well tasted, chiefly those that
are red within; so that in all my travels I hardly met with the like.
The town is pretty large, but very open like unto a village, very
pitifully built, where one may still see here and there some signs of old
building.
From thence northwards within half a league lieth the town _Diospolis_,
formerly call’d _Lidda_, where _Peter_ did visit the Saints, and cured
one named _Æneas_, that had had a palsie for eight years. Nothing else is
to be seen there, but the church of St _George_, whom the _Turks_ chiefly
honour, as a Knight and _Hero_, before all other Saints. After they had
quite tired us, during this time, with their continual impertinencies, we
agreed with them, and went away early in the morning, and came in good
time over the plain, to the mountain of the city of _Jerusalem_, to which
we had still four leagues to travel. By the way there appeared presently
on the mountains several _Arabians_, and ran before us in great clusters
to cut us off in our way, with such violence, that we were almost forced
to come to our defence, and to push our way through them by force; for
our Janizaries had already flung their iron club into the backside of
one of them, and had almost spoil’d him. When they found us to be in
earnest, they took something to drink of us and let us alone. So we must,
before we arrived at the old destroy’d and ruinated _Jerusalem_ (where
there is no joy nor hopes to get any thing, as is in the Heavenly one)
soon one after another pay them, just like boys that have lost their game
and run the gauntlet.
After we had endured all these brushes we went on, and came to the middle
of the way of the mountains, where it was very rough and stony, into a
small village call’d _Anatoth_, lying on a height, where we rested a
little, and water’d our beasts at a very rich spring, that runs through
it by an ancient little church down the hill; this is situated (as
_Josephus_ writes in his tenth book and tenth chapter of his Antiquities,
or Ancient History) within twenty furlongs of _Jerusalem_. There was born
the holy Prophet _Jeremiah_, as you may see in his first chapter; and it
is also call’d by _Esaiah_ a pitiful village, which, together with the
town _Rama_, did formerly belong to the inheritance of the children of
_Benjamin_. Thither went also _Abiathar_, when King _Salomon_ did depose
or exclude him from his priesthood, to live on his own ground. A little
before it they shew’d us at the top of the height of _Silo_, of mount
_Ephraim_, some relicts of the grave of the Holy Prophet _Samuel_, where
we could look about for several leagues round, which was of _Ramatha_,
or _Arimathea_, as also _Joseph_ the Just, who helped to take _Christ_
down from the cross, and did put him into his own new grave. The town was
underneath the mountain where the Prophet _Samuel_ was buried at first,
but carry’d up to _Silo_, after the town was taken.
Just when you come to _Jerusalem_, _Nicopolis_ lieth on the left hand
upon the height, formerly call’d _Emmaus_, from _Jerusalem_ threescore
furlongs distant, as the Scripture telleth us; whither _Christ_ did
accompany the two disciples, and explained the Scriptures to them, and at
last made himself known to them. We left it and went up to _Jerusalem_,
which is now call’d _Gotz_ by the _Arabians_ and _Turks_. The road is
very rough and rocky; so that we saw very little, but on each side in the
valleys many delicate large olive-trees, and some few vineyards.
The city lieth on the height of the mountains, as the 125th Psalm
testifieth. It is not to be seen, until you come over the bare and rough
mountains intercepting the prospect of it on this side.
Just before it without on the top of mount _Gihon_, are to be seen still
some antiquities of the town _Helia_, which _Adrian_ the Emperor built
after the desolation of _Jerusalem_, and called it after his own name
_Helia_. This was first taken by _Cosroë_, King of _Persia_, in the time
of the Emperor _Heraclius_ who did overcome him again, and afterwards by
_Homar_ the third King of the _Saracens_, who demolish’d it; afterwards
it was more contracted, and somewhat built again in it’s old place. In
these days it is, as well as all that country, under the dominion of the
_Turkish_ Emperor.
Before it we dismounted, for no outlandish man hath permission to ride
into their towns, and went under the gate _Hebron_, to stay there for the
Father Guardian, to whom we had by one of our carriers given notice of
our arrival, and also desired him to get us license from the Sangiack to
come in. In the mean time some Mendicant Friars came out of the monastry,
and received us very kindly. Soon after the Ermin came also riding with
his clerk, and ask’d us from whence we came, how many there were of us,
and what our names were. And after they had written it down, and every
one had paid him his due, to have safe conduct to see the holy places,
the Ermin promised it us, and put his right hand upon his head, which is
the fashion in these countries, and bended forwards to let us know that
we might confide in his promise. Then they let us pass, and the Friars
conducted us in, towards the left hand, through some small streets or
lanes into the monastry, which is behind on the town-wall towards the
west.
This although it is not large and spacious, yet is it very handsome and
strong built; we went into lodge there as all Pilgrims do that come
there, where Father _Jeremy_ of _Brixen_, a brother of the order of the
_Minorites_ of St _Francis_, a Guardian of the holy mount _Zion_, who
had been president of this monastry of _Jerusalem_, and of the other of
_Bethlehem_ for eighteen years together, received us very kindly. There
are but very few Monks in it, and they are of all sorts of nations, as
_Italians_, _Spaniards_, _French_, and _Germans_, yet of the last named
I found not one when I arrived there. These lead the Pilgrims about,
together with an interpreter or _Truschemant_, that understands the
_Arabian_ and _Turkish_ language, and shew them the holy places as well
within as without the city. But before we went out the Father Guardian
admonish’d us, that we must have a care, and not go to the graves of the
heathens, which are almost throughout _Turkey_ without the towns near to
the highways; for if one or more should, before he was aware of it, which
may easily happen, go to them, the _Turks_ would be very much offended
at it, partly because they take any one that is not circumcised to be
unclean, and so they fear that they might make them also unclean; partly
because they are very jealous of their wives, wherefore they permit them
not easily to walk or appear in the open street, except they have a mind
to go into the bath or bagnio, or to visit the graves of their deceased
parents or relations; and where women are present, every one had best to
come away, to avoid danger.
After he had said this he went on, saying, That if any should be among
us, that were come over the sea, hither, that could not bring very good
proof, that they did appear before his Holiness the Pope at _Rome_,
and were there absolved by him, that such were in his Holiness’s
excommunication, and therefore could not be admitted to see those holy
places, much less obtain the indulgences, which in former ages had been
left with them, out of great kindness of the Popes, to be distributed
among the Pilgrims, wherefore he desired, that every one might shew
him their certificates. All these points he used to propound to every
one that cometh there, in course, as I had heard before of several
that had been there formerly; that they were very glad to see Pilgrims
arrive, and that they used to shew the holy places to them also that
bring no recommendation from his Holiness the Pope, hoping that they
will recompense them at their departure. Wherefore I did not much mind
this excommunication, but let that remain in it’s ancient credit; but
my comrades, two whereof were Priests that used to say mass, were very
much astonish’d at it, and full of trouble, that they should be under his
Holiness’s excommunication before they were aware of it; wherefore they
began to excuse themselves, and said, That they did not know any thing
of it, neither had they had any opportunity in their travels to come to
_Rome_; but although this had been omitted before their arrival, yet
they would certainly do it as they went back. Notwithstanding all this
the Guardian seem’d to be very earnest, and made shew as if he could not
absolve them; yet at last, after he had long enough kept them in this
fear, he began to declare, that he had also received full power from his
Holiness, and the whole _Roman Catholic_ church, to absolve all those
that did not bring any certificates. And so at last absolved us in the
cloisters of his monastry in _Latin_ with these words: _I absolve you of
all your sins in the name of the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost._
And with this he concluded his speech.
[Illustration]
CHAP. III.
_A plain description of the city of ~Jerusalem~, as it was to be seen in
our time; and of the adjacent countries._
The glorious and kingly city of _Jerusalem_ (which formerly the
_Saracens_ called _Kurzitadon_, but now is named _Chutz_ by the
inhabitants) is still situated in the old place, in the middle of _Judea_
on the high mountains, and as the head is extolled above the rest; which
may be concluded, partly because from thence you may see all the country
as from a center, partly also because the springs rise here, and so run
down, as from a higher place, every way and to every part thereof; as
the holy Prophet _Ezekiel_ doth testify in his fourteenth chapter, where
he saith; _That at that time fresh streams shall flow from Jerusalem,
half thereof to the sea toward the east, and the other half towards the
farthest sea_. There are also many other places of Scripture that[4]
testify the high situation of _Jerusalem_, as in the eighth chapter of
the _Acts_, verse 26. where the angel of the Lord spake unto _Phillip_,
saying, _Arise and go towards the south, unto the way that goeth down
from Jerusalem unto Gaza_, &c. And in the tenth chapter of St _Mark_,
and the thirty-second verse, _And they were in the way going up to
Jerusalem_. And the tenth chapter of St _Luke_, verse 30. _A certain man
went down from Jerusalem to Jericho._ And verse 31. _And by chance there
came down a certain priest that way_, &c.
The situation of _Jericho_, together with the great plains thereabout,
through which the river _Jordan_ runs from the north towards the south,
together with the Dead-sea, where formerly _Sodom_ and _Gomorrah_
stood, you see from the town, over a barren hill below, so plainly,
that one would think we might go thither with ease in three hours,
and yet it would require a whole day’s journey. Beyond the river that
separateth _Arabia_ from _Judæa_, lie the high hills _Abarim_ and _Nebo_,
over-against _Jericho_, whence _Moses_, (as is said, _Deuteronomy_ the
32d and 34th chapters) had a full prospect of the land of _Canaan_,
promised to _Abraham_, _Isaac_ and _Jacob_; one may see them thence
so plainly, as also the mount _Seir_, which toucheth them beyond the
Dead-sea in the land of the _Moabites_ and _Ammonites_, that one would
also think they were very near.
They bring yearly a vast quantity of sheep to _Jerusalem_ from off the
mountains, which feeding upon the fragrant, delicate and hearty herbs
that grow there, have meat that tastes very pleasantly, the tails thereof
are very fat, above half a span thick, and one and a half broad and
long. The Levetical Priest (as we read in _Leviticus_ the ninth chapter,
and other places) used to burn this together with all the fat of the
entrails, and the two kidneys for a sin-offering.
There are also goats, with hanging ears almost two foot long. And
therefore some _Arabians_, called _Balduini_, keep in the desarts, that
have no certain abode, but lie continually in the fields, and go from
country to country in great numbers, wheresoever they find good pasture
for their beasts and camels. I have met with many of them in my travels,
and have some time staid with them all night in their tents, they are
commonly soldiers armed usually with bows and long pikes made of cane, as
the other _Arabians_, and because of their nimbleness and courage they
are very much preferred before the rest.
This Holy Land (which, according to the promise made to the Patriarchs,
was for many years in the possession of the _Israelites_) was, as you
read in _Deuteronomy_ chap. viii. a most fruitful and rich country,
abounding with corn, fruits, wine, and all that is required to the
maintenance of man’s life. So the Lord himself saith, _That he will
give them a land, that still floweth with milk and honey_. For it hath
rich valleys, hills, fields and gardens, richly adorned with fountains
and trees, so that it was very well chosen to be the worldly Paradise,
wherein _Adam_ and _Eve_ did live, honour and serve God. Now as the
land in it’s goodness surpassed other lands, so did _Jerusalem_ excel
all other cities in building, glory, fortification, and number of
inhabitants. Moreover God visited the _Israelites_ from the beginning,
and had a house built in this city for himself, which he chose before all
others to sanctify his name there. And above all this he provided them
with High Priests, Kings and Prophets, until God the Father did send his
only begotten Son, our Lord _Jesus Christ_ in the flesh, to reveal to
them his will with teaching and miracles.
But when they would not acknowledge his merciful visitation, nor receive
his messengers, but did rather abuse, ridicule, and kill them, rejected
the Lord of Glory himself, and adhered to, and adored strange Gods and
served them; God did reject and disperse them among the heathens, burnt
and destroyed their city and temple, and reduced their fruitful country
into barren desarts and a desolate wilderness, and so the punishment
came upon them, which the holy Prophet _Esaiah_ did foretel them in the
thirteenth chapter, and ninth verse, saying, _Behold the day of the Lord
cometh, cruel both with wrath and fierce anger, to lay the land desolate;
and he shall destroy the sinners thereof out of it_. And further in the
twenty-fifth chapter, and second verse, _Thou hast made of a city a
heap; of a defenced city a ruin; a place of strangers to be no city, it
shall never be built_. And _Daniel_ also maketh mention of this in his
ninth chapter, _&c._ This ought to serve us and all men as an example
of the fervent anger of God, to be a warning to us for ever. For if of
the glorious city of _Jerusalem_, which God had chosen before others,
and of it’s vast buildings that made her famous before her desolation,
there is at this day nothing at all to be seen, so that one might very
well doubt whether it ever stood there, were it not for some holy places
and it’s situation, that give us demonstration thereof. If I say this
worldly _Jerusalem_, because of it’s unbelieving inhabitants, that would
not acknowledge the Blessed _Messias_, nor adhere to his doctrine to
their salvation, is quite rooted out; and instead thereof, the way of
the heavenly _Jerusalem_ opened to us heathens by the holy apostles:
_How shall we escape if we neglect so great salvation?_ This way to our
Lord _Christ_, hath for many years past been shewed us sincerely by the
ministers of the holy word of God, but we do not only not much care for
it, but seek rather other by-ways, that lead us to idolatry, sin and
vices, nay, to our utter ruin. Wherefore it is to be feared, that if
we do not repent in time, and return to God again, that he will come
upon us with his wrath (as he hath already begun) and deliver us up
into the hands of our adversaries, that we may fall by their swords (as
_Ezekiel_ doth threaten us in his thirty-ninth chapter) and to punish
us according to the deserts of our sins. Wherefore we ought to lay to
heart the terrible example of the _Jews_, and turn from our evil ways,
that we may avoid the punishments that befel them. We see that those who
were formerly the people of God, are now come to be so blind, and full
of errors, and of so depraved a life, that there is hardly any like them
to be found even among the infidels and impious. Wherefore they are by
all men despised and hated, chiefly by the _Turks_ (who hate them more
than any other nation) so that they would not let them live among them,
if the _Turkish_ Emperor had not for a great sum of money given them a
peculiar freedom. And besides all this, now-a-days, their towns and
countries are inhabited by _Turks_, _Moors_, and _Arabians_, that do not
love to till or cultivate the ground, but will rather starve than take
pains to get a good livelihood by their hand-labour. And although the
country about _Jerusalem_ is very rocky, rough, stony, and ill managed,
yet notwithstanding they will not endeavour to mend and improve it, but
find out the fruitful lands that are here and there, and over-run the
country like grashoppers, so that you may observe it yearly to decay more
and more. Seeing then that there is but little tillage about the city,
therefore the product of the earth there is but very small, so that they
must have almost all necessaries brought them from other places.
The town of _Jerusalem_ which is still pretty large; but very ill built,
hath within it’s wall, which the _Turkish_ Emperor caused to be built
about twenty years ago, large places that lie desolated, and are so full
of stones and rocks, that one can hardly walk in them. The gardens (even
those that are within the city, and are but ill managed) are surrounded
with mud walls, not above four foot high, so that one may climb over them
without any difficulty. These are washed down again by rain in a very
little time, so that they want mending continually.
Their habitations are also little and low, have clay walls, and many
of them are decayed, some lie quite in a heap. The churches of the two
Apostles, that of St _John_ and St _Peter_, are in the same condition, as
also the prison where St _Peter_ was kept, the habitation of _Veronica_,
which the Cordeliers shew us for them, and a great many places more. In
some streets chiefly near to their _Batzar_, or exchange, are very old
vaults, part whereof are decayed and broken, part filled up with dust,
which runs out into the streets; wherefore (chiefly in the summer) the
dust lieth so thick in them, that you may see every step in it, as in
snow or sand.
All which sheweth, that the _Turks_ destroy or ruin more than they
build; wherefore they are deservedly called _Turks_, that is to say,
_destroyers_. The present town, as to the extent of it’s walls, is not
much less than the old one was, wherefore one should admire, considering
how it is built now, how it was possible it should hold so many people as
it is said were in it at the time of it’s desolation, _viz._ a million
of men, or as _Josephus_ and _Eusebius_ say, three millions. _Jerusalem_
was formerly surrounded with very steep cliffs, deep ditches and vallies,
chiefly on three sides towards the south, east and west, so that one
could not easily get up to it but only on the north side, where the town
was low, lying in a plain; therefore did _Titus_ first attack it in a
place near the village called _Scapas_, seven miles distant from it,
and afterward advanced and took it; which the holy Prophet _Jeremiah_
did foretel many years before, in the first chapter and twelfth verse,
saying, _Out of the north an evil shall break forth upon all the
inhabitants of the land_.
These ditches and vallies are now quite filled up with the ruins of the
broken walls and buildings, so that one may go into the town, as into
an open village, without any hinderance or pain. But when the Grand
Signior, after he had taken it, saw that the town was open, and that
the Christian Pilgrims came thither in great numbers from all places
and countries, he feared that they might make themselves masters of it
again, as they had done some years agone, wherefore he ordered it to be
surrounded again with new walls, which although they are very high, yet
they are so thin and slight, that they are not able to withstand the
least violence. But as the town was anciently built four square, so it is
now built more round, chiefly towards mount _Calvaria_, which formerly
was without the town, but now is walled in; so that you may still see two
corners, one whereof is towards _Galilee_, where the gate of that corner
is which is still open, and almost one of the handsomest, through which
you go to _Nazareth_, distant three days journey; as also to _Cæsarea
Philippi_, which is now called _Balbec_, where still are to be seen some
very fine antiquities; and also towards _Damascus_, which is six days
journey distant from _Jerusalem_, and from thence six days journey more
to _Aleppo_, the greatest town for trade in all _Syria_. _Jeremiah_
maketh mention of this gate in his 31st chapter and the 38th verse.
_Behold the days come saith the Lord, that the city shall be built to the
Lord, from the town of Hananeel unto the gate of the corner._ And also
_Zacharias_, in his 14th chapter, and in the 2d book of _Chronicles_,
the 26th chapter, and 9th verse: It is said _Uzzia_ built towers in
_Jerusalem_ at the corner gate, and at the valley gate, _&c._ The second
corner mount _Zion_ maketh, where it doth end toward the south, whereon,
as also on the mount _Moria_, the city is rising towards the north. The
old city had twelve gates, as you read in the _Revelation_. The 1st,
the _Fish-gate_, which was also called the gate of _Hebron_, because
the road of _Hebron_ went through it, which is about seven or eight
hours walking distant from it. 2. The _Old-Gate_. 3. The _Prison Gate_,
whereof _Nehemiah_ maketh mention in his 12th chapter, through which
our Saviour Christ carried his cross. 4. _Rayn-Gate._ 5. The Gate of
_Ephraim_, before which St _Stephen_ was stoned to death, as you may read
in the 2d book of the _Ecclesiastical History_ in the 1st chapter. 6.
The Gate of _Benjamin_, where the holy Prophet _Jeremiah_ was taken and
imprisoned, as he saith himself in the 37th chapter. 7. _Corner-Gate._ 8.
_Horse-Gate._ 9. _Valley-Gate_, thro’ which they went into the valley of
_Josaphat_. 10. _Dung-Gate_, through which the water carried out all the
soil into the valley of _Josaphat_; and about this river is still to this
day a great stink. 11. _Sheep-Gate._ 12. _Fountain-Gate_, which is now
walled up. The Prophet _Nehemiah_ maketh mention of them in his 3d, 8th,
and 12th chapter, so that it is not needful to say any more. These gates
are so mightily decayed, that there is not to be seen the least of the
old buildings. The _Turks_ have instead of them, built others in the new
raised wall, but yet not half so many in number, whereof some (according
as the town is inlarged in some places, and contracted in others) are
displaced; others are erected again in the same places, according to
the old streets, _viz._ 1. The _Fish-Gate_, which is still standing
towards the west behind mount _Sion_, and over-against mount _Gihon_,
as you may conclude out of the words of the 2d book of _Chronicles_ in
the 33d chapter and 14th verse. _Manasses_ built a wall without the city
of _David_, on the west side of _Gihon_, in the valley, even to the
entring in at the _Fish-Gate_. This gate hath it’s name, because they
brought many fishes from the sea side through this gate into the city.
So is also still standing, on the outside of the valley _Tiropæon_(which
distinguished the two mounts, _Sion_, and the temple mount called
_Moriah_) the gate of the fountain, which hath it’s name because it
leadeth towards the fountain of _Siloah_, which _Nehemiah_ his 2d
chapter, verse 14. calleth the _King’s Pool_. Through this was our dear
Lord _Christ_, the true promised _Siloah_, brought a prisoner bound from
the mount of _Olives_ over the brook _Kidron_, into the house of _Hannas_
and _Caiphas_ in the upper town, as we read in the 12th chapter, verse
37, that by the _Fountain-Gate_ they went up to the city of _David_. The
same way also the two disciples, _Peter_ and _John_, were sent to bespeak
the paschal lamb by _Christ_, where they met the man with the pitcher of
water.
The _Sheep_, or _Beast-Gate_, is also still standing by _Moriah_, the
mountain of the temple, which the _Turks_ have taken to themselves, and
have built on it a _Turkish_ mosque, or temple, because that God Almighty
hath done many and great miracles on this mount; and besides _Mahomet_
did find himself again on this mount, after he had been carried up (as
his lying writings tell us) through the heavens before God by the angel
_Gabriel_. Wherefore they take this mount to be holy, so that none that
is not circumcised and so unclean, dare approach or come near it, nor
take the nearest way without over the height of the mount as _Nehemiah_
did, as you may see in the before quoted place; so that the Christians
must take a farther way about, and from the gate _Siloah_, go below
through the valley of the brook _Cedron_, between this and the mount of
_Olives_ to the _Beast-Gate_, which hath it’s name because the beasts
that were to be offerr’d in the temple were driven through it.
Near the gate you see still the sheep pond, which is large and deep,
yet hath but little water in it, wherein the _Nathineens_ used to wash
the beasts, and then to give them to the priests. And also immediately
within towards the north, a conduit, which was the pool by St _John_
the Evangelist (in the 2d verse of his 5th chapter) called _Bathesda_,
erected by King _Ezechia_; _that had five porches, wherein lay a great
multitude of impotent folk, that waited for the moving of the water_.
Through this gate is the straight way over the brook _Cedron_, by the
mount of _Olives_ toward _Bethania_, down to _Jericho_ on the river
_Jordan_, into the valley of _Josaphat_, wherefore this also, being
nearer now in these days, is called the _Valley-Gate_.
There is also still the _Corner-Gate_ in it’s old place, where the north
and east walls meet on large and high rocks, and is called still by some
the gate of _Napthali_.
This I thought convenient to say of the city of _Jerusalem_ in the
general of it’s buildings, fruitfulness, and adjacent countries; what
famous and holy places are within and without the city, thereof I intend
to treat in particular.
[Illustration]
CHAP. IV.
_Of Mount ~Sion~, and it’s Holy Places._
Mount _Sion_, very famous in holy Scripture, hath round about it steep
sides, high rocks, deep ditches and vallies, so that it is not easy to
climb up to it, only on one side towards the north, where it buts upon
the lower town, so that the castle and town of _David_ situated on it,
was very strong, and almost invincible, as you may read in the 48th
Psalm, verse 2. _The joy of the whole earth is mount Sion, on the sides
of the north, the city of the great King. God is known in her places for
a refuge, for the Kings were assembled_, &c. Seeing then that the castle,
and the upper town _Millo_ was so well fortified with towers and walls,
that it was not easily to be taken, the _Jebusites_, after that _Canaan_
the whole Land of Promise, together with the town of _Jerusalem_ was
taken, did defend themselves in it against the whole force of _Israel_
for a long time, although they often attempted to take it, and called the
town of _Jerusalem_ after their name _Jebus_, until the kingly Prophet
_David_ came, who took it by force; and after he had rebuilt the upper
town, and joined the castle with it into one building, and surrounded it
with walls, he called it after his own name, The city of _David_, and
kept his court there, and gave also lodgings to his hero’s and officers,
whereof _Uriah_ was one, who had his lodgings near to the King’s
palace, wherein the King walking on the roof of his house, saw the fair
_Bathsheba_ his wife, and committed adultery with her.
These their habitations, as they are still built in these days, have
instead of thatch or tiles, plaistered roofs, so that one may walk on
them, as you may see here, that King _David_ walked on it. And also in
the second chapter of the book of _Joshua_, where is said, That when
the two spies sent into the Land of Promise to _Jericho_, came into
_Rahab_’s house, and the King sent to search after them, they went at her
request up to the roof of the house, where she hid them with the stalks
of flax, which she had laid in order upon the roof. But seeing there
is nothing so strong in this world that is not transitory, therefore
is also this worldly mount _Zion_, together with it’s strong building
and fortification (which was rather a type of the true rock in _Zion_,
_Christ_ our Lord, and his heavenly kingdom and holy church that was
built thereon) so ruined and desolated, that the greatest and highest
part thereof before the town, except a _Turkish_ mosque, some tile
houses and a few acres of it, lieth quite a desart, covered with rocks
and stones. So it is come to pass, what _Micah_ in his third chapter and
the twelfth verse predicted: ‘Therefore shall _Zion_ for your sake be
plowed as a field, and _Jerusalem_ shall become heaps, and the mountain
of the house, as the high places of the forest.’ And _Jeremiah_ in his
_Lamentations_, chap. 5. verse 18. saith, ‘The mountain of _Zion_ which
is desolate, the foxes walk upon it.’ And _Isaiah_ in his thirty-second
chapter, verse 14. ‘The palaces shall be forsaken, the multitude of the
city shall be left, the forts and towns shall be dens for ever, a joy of
wild asses, a pasture of flocks.’
The great castle of the _Turks_ is situated at the top of the inward
part of the mount, towards the west side near the _Fish-Gate_, which is
also newly built, and very well surrounded with walls and ditches; under
the gate are several great guns to frighten the Christians that come
thither in great flocks, chiefly against great feasts from all nations,
_Armenians_, _Georgians_, _Abyssins_, _Latinists_, &c. for they fear that
else the town might be taken from them again.
Within the fort near the _Fish-Gate_, is still a strong high tower, built
up with great free-stone, which is quite black through age; wherefore
some say, that it did anciently belong to the fort, and was built by one
of the Kings of _Juda_.
So much I thought convenient to mention of mount _Zion_, concerning other
famous places that are to be seen upon and about it, I will only mention
the chiefest thereof.
First, As you go out of the _New-Gate_ of mount _Zion_, there is a long
street wherein on the left hand is an ancient church, of the holy Apostle
_James_ the Greater, brother of _John_, which _Helena_ the mother of
_Constantine_ the Emperor, as also many more did build on the market
place of the upper city where he was beheaded. The _Armenians_ that have
possession thereof, did conduct us into it, shewed us the building, and
the place where the holy Apostle was beheaded with the sword (as you read
in the _Acts of the Apostles_, the twelfth chapter) by order of _Herod
Agrippa_, to whom he was delivered out of spite, as a seditious person,
by the High Priest _Abiathar_.
Then we came to the place of the habitation of _Hannas_, whereto _Christ_
our Lord was first of all brought a prisoner and bound, or fetter’d,
wherein was nothing observable, only a large court, and in it an old
chapel, called the _Angels_, which we soon left, and went out of the
gate of mount _Zion_ to the habitation of _Caiaphas_, where we saw an
orange tree planted in the place where the holy apostle _Peter_ did
warm himself when he denied our Saviour the third time; farther within
a chapel, called St _Salvators_, where, in former ages was the place
of the High Priest, where _Christ_ was severely accused by _Caiaphas_,
and by his servants mocked, spit upon, and beaten; wherein is an altar,
whereon the great stone of the grave still lieth, that stopped the door
of the sepulchre, which is very like unto the rock of the grave in
it’s breaking. That the habitation of the High Priest was in the upper
city, _Josephus_ does testify in the seventeenth chapter of his second
book of the _Desolation_ of _Jerusalem_, where he saith thus: ‘When the
rebellious _Jews_, that had the lower town in possession with the temple,
did undertake to possess themselves also of the upper town, they did
assault it with all might and power, and at last take it; then they drove
out the soldiers, which had the chief priests and men in power with
them, out of the upper town, set the habitation of _Ananias_ the High
Priest on fire and burnt it.’
Before this, on the top of the mount, stands on the plain a large church,
which the _Franciscan_ monks had not long ago in possession, and lived in
it, wherefore their father did call himself a Guardian of the holy mount
_Zion_. But after that the _Turks_ did about twenty years agon possess
themselves of it, and kept it to themselves, and made a _Mahometan_
mosque of it; the monks were forced to fly, and take the habitation where
they now live instead thereof.
Of this church or mosque, we saw only the outside of the habitation of
_Caiaphas_, for no Christian is allowed to go into it. It was built
many years agone by _Helena_, mother of _Constantine_ the Emperor, as
_Nicephorus_ testifieth in the thirtieth chapter of his eighth book;
wherein is also included the habitation the Disciples were lock’d up in
for fear of the _Jews_; and also the paved dining room, or hall, wherein
_Christ_ with his Disciples did eat the Passover; where he also washed
their feet, and sent the Holy Ghost after his ascension to them; where
also _James_[5] the _Lesser_ was elected Overseer, and first Bishop of
_Jerusalem_. In this temple, which is above a thousand paces distant
from _Golgotha_, or the place of a skull, was, for some time kept the
stone pillar, whereto _Christ_ our Lord and Saviour was tied and whipped.
Near unto this, in the place of the palace of _Caiaphas_, the same Queen
_Helena_ ordered a church to be built for the holy Apostle _Peter_, and
many more, whereof mention is made at large in the above quoted place.
This mount extendeth itself towards the south, out before the city, and
hath on the other side where it is highest, other higher ones about
it, distinguished with ditches and vallies, viz. towards the west
mount _Gihon_, at the bottom whereof _Solomon_ was anointed King by
the Priest _Zadock_ and the Prophet _Nathan_, as we read in the first
chapter of the first book of _Kings_; upon this, at the top towards the
road of _Bethlehem_, lieth the field of blood, in their language called
_Hakeldemas_, that was bought for thirty silver pieces to bury the
pilgrims there, where you see still to this day here and there large and
deep holes, and one among the rest very big, wherein are still to be seen
several whole bodies lying by one another.
A deep valley separates this mount from mount _Zion_, which beginneth at
the _Fish-Gate_, and goeth down to the brook _Cedron_; in it is a conduit
by the upper pool called _Asuia_ in the third chapter of _Nehemiah_,
which is pretty large, yet without any water, which receiveth it’s water
from the high spring of _Gihon_, this was covered by King _Hezekias_,
and laid down to the town of _David_, as we read in the second book of
_Chronicles_, chap. 32. The holy Prophet _Isaiah_, chap. 7. verse 3.
mentioneth it, when the Lord saith to him; ‘Go forth now to meet _Ahaz_,
thou and _Shearjashub_ thy son, at the end of the conduit of the upper
pool, in the path of the fullers field, _&c._’ And in the fourth book
of _Kings_, in the eighteenth chapter, verse seventeen: ‘The King of
_Assyria_ sent a great host against _Jerusalem_, and when they were come
up, they came and stood by the conduit of the upper pool, which is in the
high way of the Fullers field.’
Before mount _Zion_, towards the south, at the other side of the rivulet
_Kidron_, lieth the mount of _Transgression_, in the fourth book of
_Kings_, chap. 23. called _Mashith_; between this and mount _Olivet_ is a
valley, through which goeth down the road by _Bethania_ to _Jericho_, &c.
This is higher and steeper than any hereabout. There you see still some
old walls of the habitation wherein the concubines of _Solomon_ did live,
after whom the King ran in his old age; and they did so possess him, that
they turned his heart from God Almighty after their gods, and so he did
that that did not please the Lord God, as you may read in the first book
of _Kings_, chap. 11. verse 4.
Underneath the mount was the valley _Benhinnom_, wherein the Kings of
_Jerusalem_ did build a temple to the idol _Moloch_, and did worship him,
_viz._ _Solomon_, _Ahaz_, _Manasseh_, &c. whereof we read in several
places in the holy Scripture, _Levit._ 18. 21. ‘Thou shalt not let any
of thy seed pass through the fire to _Moloch_.’ And also _Jerem._ 7. 30.
‘And they have set their abominations in the house which is called by
my name to pollute it. And they have built the high places of _Tophet_,
which is in the valley of the son of _Hinnom_, to burn their sons and
their daughters in the fire, which I commanded them not, neither came it
into my heart, therefore behold, the days come saith the Lord, that it
shall no more be called _Tophet_, nor the valley of the son of _Hinnom_,
but the valley of slaughter; for they shall bury in _Tophet_ till there
be no place.’ And also 2 _Chron._ 18. 2. ‘_Ahaz_ made molten images for
_Baalim_, and burnt incense in the valley of the son of _Hinnom_, and
burnt his children in the fire after the abominations of the heathen.’
The holy Prophet _Amos_ doth also make mention of these abominable
idolatries in his fifth chapter; which St _Luke_ in the seventh chapter,
verse the forty third, of the _Acts_ doth thus explain: ‘Ye took up the
tabernacle of _Moloch_, and the star of your god _Remphan_, _&c._’ which
the holy Prophet calleth _Sicchuth_ and _Chiun_: But the heathen called
them _Jupiter_ and _Saturn_, the Devourer of children, and so he is also
painted. This statue was hollow within, of cast brass, whereinto they did
put the children, and burnt them alive, and did believe they served God
in it, as _Abraham_ when he would sacrifice his son _Isaac_; they had
also kettle drums and other musical instruments which they played on,
that the parents might not hear their children cry; wherefore _Christ_
gave unto hell itself, and it’s perpetual flames, the name of the valley
_Benhinnom_, calling it _Gehenna_; to give us warning and exhortation,
that we hate false and abominable idolatries, introduced contrary to his
command, worse than the devil himself.
Besides this, there is little else seen hereabout, only above on the
steepest and highest part of the mount many little tents and habitations,
as if they hung at it, which in these times are not inhabited either
by _Turks_ or _Moors_; in the valley you see the rivulet _Kidron_,
where over they brought our Lord Christ bound as a prisoner, from
mount _Olivet_; this proceedeth only from rain water near to the place
_Gethsemane_, and runs without by the town from south to west. Beside
this brook did King _Asa_ burn the images of _Priapus_ as _Josias_ and
_Hezekiah_ the idols of _Baal_, all incenses and uncleannesses that are
found in the temple of the Lord.
Farther towards the east you see from the top of mount _Zion_ the
fountain and pool of _Siloah_ below in the valley, call’d by _Josephus_
_Tiropæon_, which divideth this and the temple mount, and becometh to be
very narrow between them, and extendeth itself from the rivulet _Kidron_
towards the north to the place of skulls, where it groweth so large
again, that the lower town of _Jerusalem_, (by _Isaiah_ in his tenth,
and _Zachariah_ in his ninth chapter, call’d _The Daughter of Zion and
Jerusalem_) was situated therein. Out of which near to the gate of the
fountain of _Siloah_, which is now wall’d up, the way goeth up to the
gate of _Zion_ into the upper town, thro’ which two our Lord Christ was
brought a prisoner to the houses of _Hannas_ and _Caiphas_.
This valley hath been since the desolation so fill’d up, that no depth
at all appeareth in our days; but only without the fountain-gate by the
fountain _Siloah_, that is very rich of water, where is still the pool
wherein the blind man wash’d his eyes, that were anointed with clay and
spittle, St _John_ ix. 6. according to the command of our Lord, and did
see.
Just by it are still the two hills whereof _Josephus_ maketh mention,
with a very steep cliff, very rocky on both sides, one whereof towards
the east, call’d the rock of the pidgeons, hath a great cave, out of
which the fountain springs, and runs off immediately below through a
channel, that goeth so strait and smooth through the rock, as if it had
been made on purpose.
Near to the fountain and gate of _Siloah_, stood the tower of _Siloah_,
that killed eighteen men, as we read in St _Luke_, chap. xiii.
Without between the fountain and stream of _Kidron_, they shew a great
mulberry-tree, fenced in below; this stands in the place where the holy
Prophet _Isaias_ was buried, whom the King _Manasse_ ordered to be cut in
pieces with a wooden saw, as being an Heretick.
This may suffice of mount _Zion_, it’s situation and some adjacent places.
As we went about, and came to one of the places, the Monks did shew the
Pilgrims in each of them, the number of the years for the pardons laid
there by his Holiness, as in some seven years and seven indulgences;
but in some others, as in the place where the Holy Ghost was sent,
where Christ did eat the Passover with his disciples, and wash’d their
feet, and where he at several times appeared when the doors were shut;
and where also, as _Nicephorus_ saith, the Virgin Mary, after the
resurrection of Christ her dear child, did dwell for fourteen years,
_&c._ full absolution and indulgences from all sins and facts for ever.
Now that all those that come there, may receive it more worthily, the
monks exhort them to kneel down before every of such places, and to pray
the Lord’s Prayer and Ave Maria with devotion; and that when they have
done so, they need not to doubt, but that they have fully received the
absolution that was given for that place by his Holiness. After they had
thus pray’d in several places, some of our company rejoiced mightily,
and confessed, that after it they were holy, and so innocent, that
if they should die then, they were secure, that their soul should go
immediately out of their mouth into heaven, and eternal life. To this I
answer’d them: That I expected remission of sin no other ways but only
in the name and for the merits, of our Lord Jesus Christ; and that I
had not undertaken this pilgrimage as they did, to get any thing by it
as by a good work; nor to visit stone and wood to obtain indulgence; or
with opinion to come here nearer to Christ; because all these things
are directly contrary to Scripture. As the Lord himself saith: ‘Time
will come that you shall neither on this mount nor at Jerusalem worship
the Father.’ And he also forewarneth us of those that say: ‘Lo Christ
is here, Christ is there, he is in the desarts, he is in the chamber;’
that we should not believe them, nor go out, but rather confide on his
promise, that he will be with us, to the end of the world; and where two
or three are met together in his name that he will be in the middle of
them. Wherefore our dear Lord Christ hath no need, because he is himself
present with them that believe in him, of any Vicegerent, that should
on earth usurp such power, and take such honour and glory to himself,
as to give indulgence at his pleasure; because all these things belong
only to God. When I saw, that they did not much mind this my discourse,
I let them alone in their opinions, but yet I saw here and there all
these places, and considered by myself what our Lord Christ had, by his
bitter sufferings and death, by his glorious resurrection and ascension,
procured us from his Heavenly Father. When the Pilgrims came to one of
the above-mention’d places of mount _Zion_, and had said their prayers,
they went into it, and contemplated it, fell down again before it, and
kissed it with great submission and devotion; pull’d out several pieces,
_viz._ beads and rosaries turned of the wood of the trees of the mount
of Olives, some wrought points, laces, _&c._ tied together in bundles,
to touch the holy place with it; they also knock’d off in some places
(where they might) some small pieces, to take them along with them as
consecrated sanctuaries, to distribute them among their friends at their
return.
All the while that they were thus busy, I consider’d rather standing
behind, what our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ had suffered for us in
these places, how he had humbled himself, and came down to us miserable
sinners, to help us, and to extol us that were fall’n, and to make us
free of the heavy burthen of our sins; how he was led before the seat
of judicature of _Caiphas_, that we might not be led before the severe
Judgment-seat of the Almighty God; that he suffer’d himself to be led
captive and bound, to deliver us from the bands of the devil and death,
and to save us from the jaws of hell; and as _Esaias_ saith in his fifty
third chapter vers. 5. ‘He was wounded for our transgressions, he was
bruised for our iniquities, the chastisement of our peace was upon him,
and with his stripes we are heal’d.’ But that our dear Lord Christ was
delivered to the high Priest, and Scribes, _&c._ for our sakes, and that
he was obedient to his Heavenly Father, unto death, even the death of
the cross, to deliver us from the curse of God and eternal death. And
to make us certain, that he had procured these his unspeakable benefits
and heavenly treasures for us, and that we really should be partakers
thereof; before his passion he did institute his holy Supper upon the
mount, in the large upper room, wherein he doth not only communicate
them to us, but giveth us also (if we receive the holy broken bread, and
the blessed cup with true faith according to the institution) his real
body and blood, to feed us to eternal life; where we then shall sit with
our Lord Christ, and all the elected ones (after this life) as coheirs
in the high upper room of his Heavenly Father, at his table, to eat and
drink it with him anew. And that we might heartily comfort ourselves with
these his unspeakable benefits, he also, after his ascension, sent us
on the day of Pentecost his Holy Ghost, the Spirit of Truth, to incline
our hearts, to believe steadfastly all that he hath promised us in his
holy Word and Sacraments. So the sending of the Holy Ghost, which was
long before predicted by the holy Prophets was fulfill’d on this mount;
whereof we read in several places of the holy Scripture, _viz._ _Joel_
ii. 28. ‘And it shall come to pass afterwards that I will pour out my
spirit upon all flesh, _&c._ For on mount _Zion_ and in _Jerusalem_, must
be a deliverance according to the promise of the Lord.’ And _Isaiah_
ii. 3. ‘Come ye and let us go up to the mountain of the Lord, _&c._ For
out of _Zion_ shall go forth the law, and the word of the Lord from
_Jerusalem_.’ So that the preaching of Christ’s holy Gospel, and his
kingdom did begin from _Zion_ and _Jerusalem_, and was afterwards spread
abroad by his holy Apostles throughout the whole world.
‘Grant then, O our dear Lord Christ, unto us, thy Holy Ghost; that he may
keep us in the knowledge of thy holy Word, and that he may so strengthen
and comfort us in it, that we may freely and without any fear confess
it before the face of our enemies and adversaries; and if they offend
and prosecute us, that we may overcome our crosses and persecutions with
patience; that thy honour may be advanced, and our constancy appear.
Grant us also that he may plant these thy graces in our hearts, that we
may comfort ourselves with the hope and expectation of those treasures
which thou hast by thy death and passion merited and purchased for us. So
that we may abide in thy Tabernacle, and dwell in thy holy Hill for ever,
_Amen_.’ _Psalm_ xv. 1.
CHAP. V.
_Of the mount ~Moria~ and the glorious temple of ~Solomon~._
Within the city near, to mount _Zion_ lieth another call’d _Moria_,
divided from it by the valley of _Tiropæon_, which is now fill’d up and
made even with the top, as I have said before, that hereabouts is hardly
any depth or unevenness to be seen. This as well as the other meets with
the rivulet or brook of _Kidron_ towards the north, and on both of them
the town lieth on the sides or descent. This is very famous in the holy
Scripture, as you read _Genesis_ xxii, That the pious Patriarch _Abraham_
was ready to offer his son _Isaac_ on this hill, for a burnt-offering
to the Lord; whereon _Melchisedec_ the first founder and King of the
town _Salem_, and Priest of the Almighty God, did first build a temple,
and therefore named the city _Jerusalem_. So we read in the second book
of _Chronicles_, chap. iii. That on the same holy mount King _Solomon_
did begin to build a house for the Lord, at _Jerusalem_, many years
afterwards. This was formerly very high, surrounded with deep ditches
and cliffs, so that it would make a man giddy to look down from the top
into the depth. Wherefore _Pompey_ and _Titus_ took a great deal of
pains before they could get upon it, to take and destroy that glorious
and well-built temple, which was in the last desolation, as well as
before in the first burnt by _Nabuchodonosor_, demolish’d and razed to
the foundations, as Christ foretold them, _Mark_ xiii. ‘That there
should not be left one stone upon another that should not be thrown down,
because they did not acknowledge the gracious time of their visitation.’
And that all hopes might be taken away from the Jews to return and to
build the temple again, to re-establish their worship; _Hadrian_ the
Emperor to prevent all, order’d, in the year of Christ 134, all to be
broken down that was left, and to root it up, to demolish all heights, to
fill all ditches, to level cliffs, and to make the ground even all over;
he did also alter the name and religion of the inhabitants, and instead
thereof introduced the heathenish idolatry. In the place of the grave
of Christ he built a temple for the idol _Jupiter_; on mount _Calvaria_
another for the idol _Venus_; and another at _Bethlehem_ to the idol
_Adonis_; and at last in the place where formerly in the temple of
_Solomon_ did stand the _Sanctum Sanctorum_, he erected his own image on
a high column for his memory, which was still standing, in _Hieronymus_’s
time. The height of this mount cannot be observed any where else now than
without by the fountain _Siloah_, and in the valley of _Benhinnom_, and
so it did remain desolate to the times of the great Emperor _Constantine_.
After that when the Jews undertook to re-build the temple at the charge
of _Julian_ the Apostate, who would make Christ a liar, the Lord having
said that their house should be left unbuilt, a great earthquake (when
they had open’d the ground to lay the foundation) did move and shake the
whole place to that degree, that every thing was turn’d upside down, and
abundance of Jews did perish in it. But when the Jews did not matter
this, but endeavour’d to go on with the work in hand, the next day flames
of fire broke out of the ground, and fiery beams struck down from Heaven,
which destroy’d more than the earthquake, and burnt all their tools,
_viz._ saws, axes, shovels, hammers, &c. When the Jews would not leave
their error for all this, the night following some small glittering
crosses like stars fell down upon their cloaths, which they could not
wash off the next morning, nor get out by any means; and an earthquake
and such a violent hurricane came upon it, that it dissipated all their
mortar and other materials into the air, so that frightened and full
of fear, they were forced to confess, that Christ, whom their ancestors
crucified, was the true and only Lord and God.
Seeing that the temple, together with the mount it stood upon, are razed
and desolated, so that one can hardly now discern what they have been
anciently, every one that goeth by, because the Lord did not favour his
own house, where his name was sanctify’d, hath reason to be astonish’d at
it, and to call to mind the strange anger of God against those that leave
the Lord their God, and adhere to other gods, serve and adore them.
Now a-days the _Turks_ have taken possession of this mount, and all the
ground whereon _Solomon_’s temple did stand, and have built a _Mahometan_
Mosque on it; which _Homar_ the third after the great Imposter _Mahomet_
built when he had taken the holy land and the city of _Jerusalem_. This
is not very large nor high, but fine and cover’d with lead, hath a great
court-yard about it, paved with white marble, and here and there orange
and date-trees are planted in it, which is very pleasant; about the sides
thereof are some high towers and gates, one whereof is vastly bigger
than any of the rest, which is near to their Batzar or exchange, which
is very old, high, and hath very good workmanship in it, wherefore the
_Franciscan_ Monks shew it instead of the gate of _Solomon_’s temple,
before which lay the man that was lame from his mother’s womb, that
begg’d alms from _Peter_ and _John_, to whom _Peter_ said: ‘Silver and
gold I have none, but such as I have give I thee: In the name of Jesus
Christ of _Nazareth_, rise up and walk.’
At the end of the gate of this yard, as commonly in all their
church-porches, hung some lamps. I could have willingly gone in before
them, to see the rock and fountain, whereof _Ezek._ in his forty seventh
chapter maketh mention, together with the inward building, but because
according to their _Mahometan_ laws, all those that are not circumcised
are accounted to be unclean, therefore going into their churches is
forbid to Christians: if any one is catch’d within, he is in danger of
his life, or else he must deny his faith, and be made a _Mamaluck_ or
_Renegado_.
In this court-yard is still another gate, call’d the Golden Gate by the
_Franciscans_, but because it stands just over against the mount of
Olives, therefore it is to be taken to be the gate _Sur_, or rather, as
_Nehemiah_ iii. _Ezek._ xlvii. and 2 _Chron._ xxxi. say, for the gate of
the stairs, which _Semia_, the son of _Sahamia_, the keeper of them did
build; thro’ which our Lord Christ did go into the temple on Palm-day, to
drive out the buyers and sellers. Now altho’ this is wall’d up in the new
town wall, so that you cannot go either out or in; yet considering it’s
ancient arches, it looketh rather like a church than a town-gate.
In the middle of the yard stands a _Turkish_ Mosque or temple, call’d the
Rock; this is esteem’d very much by the _Turks_, and next to those of
_Mecca_ and _Medina_ reputed to be the most holy. Because God Almighty
hath wrought many great miracles there; and that there _Mahomet_, as
they falsly write of him in their books, call’d by God to be the last
and greatest Prophet, did ride from _Mecca_ to that of the holy Rock of
the temple of _Jerusalem_, which is forty days journey, on a very swift
beast call’d _Elmparae_, conducted thither by the Angel _Gabriel_, who
at his arrival did help him off of his beast, ty’d it up, and then led
him by the hand into the temple, where he found many Prophets standing
together in a circle, which God had resuscitated for his honour, and to
receive him, and to acquaint him with new good tidings, and what God had
prepared for him, (I suppose ever burning flames of fire): Among the rest
he did also find _Abraham_, _Moses_, and Jesus the son of _Mary_, each of
them presenting him, first _Moses_ with a fatt of wine, _Abraham_ with a
fatt full of milk, and Jesus with a fatt of water. Then a voice spake to
him from heaven saying ‘If thou chusest the fatt with wine, thou and thy
people shall perish; if thou chusest the fatt with milk, thou shalt also
perish; but if thou chusest the fatt of water, thou and thy people shall
be saved eternally.’
These and many more insipid lies of their _Mahomet_, which are very
ridiculous and silly fables, are believed to be as true as the Gospel by
the _Turks_, _Moors_, and _Arabians_, &c. They also certainly believe
(chiefly these that live at _Jerusalem_ as the Pilgrims know) that on
the last day their _Mahomet_ is to come and seat himself on the rock of
the temple of _Moria_, and Christ on the other side of the valley of
_Josaphat_ on the mount of Olives, over-against him. Then when all the
people of the earth shall appear before the Lord of Judicature, he shall
ask _Mahomet_, who the rest are (meaning the Christians that have been
under the yoak of the _Turkish_ Emperor) then shall _Mahomet_ answer and
say, _They are these that served me faithfully_; whereupon Christ shall
let them pass into Paradise and eternal felicity; which they believe to
consist in gratifying fleshly lusts and desires, in eating and drinking,
fine cloaths, costly jewels, gold, silver, pearls, pleasant spring
gardens, beautiful and cleanly women. Therefore the temple is so highly
esteem’d by the _Turks_ and others of the same faith, and believed to be
so holy, that they go into it on their bare feet with great devotion,
and come twice a year thither in pilgrimage in great Caravans from
all places, moved thereunto by the great zeal they have towards their
_Mahomet_; but chiefly these Pilgrims that have been at _Madina-Talnabi_,
and _Mecca_, that is three days journey farther, who return by the way
of _Jerusalem_ (which is now by them call’d _Chutz_) to say also their
prayers there, and are of opinion that if they should do otherwise,
than to come thither, their peregrination would not be acceptable to
God. Amongst these are a good many Renegado Christians, that go with
them to _Mecca_, to get by their devotion into greater preferment and
wealth, wherefore they are esteem’d by them as holy and creditable ones,
although they are full of knavery and roguery, as those that come from
_Mahomet_’s own blood; they keep them very honourably, and pray for them
as their victors, and endue them with great and peculiar privileges, so
that their single witness is as valuable as three, four, six, or ten of
others, according as they have been oftner in these places. And that
every body may know them, they put upon their turbants on their heads,
their _Mahomet_’s green colours, as those of their priests do, who
esteem themselves to be his relations, who are only permitted, (as the
_Persians_ wear their red colour) to wear such turbants. Wherefore the
_Turks_ believe it to be a sin to cover those members, which nature hath
made secret, with that colour which their Prophet did bear on his head.
When the before-mention’d Renegado Christians are come to this degree,
they are bought by every body for money, to bear witness before the
Cady, or any other _Turkish_ magistrate, and that even in causes whereof
they have not the least knowledge. So it happens daily, that those that
give larger bribes to the magistrate, and do exceed their adversaries in
number of witnesses, make their lost and foul cause good; and of this
they make no conscience, because their _Koran_ teacheth them, that God
does not impute to them perjury, but only if they do not invoke him;
so that it is full satisfaction, if they feed ten poor ones for this
transgression, or if they cloath them, or if they redeem one prisoner;
but if they are not substantial enough to do this, they fast three
times. This is of a very ill consequence, because they are not afraid to
be perjur’d and to cheat others. And although these and other the like
sins, are very common amongst the _Turks_, _viz._ robbing, and to break
their faith, _&c._ which are directly against God, yet for all that
these (because they have lost all remembrance of confession, penitence
or mending of their lives) exceed them in this by far. Besides all this
they do not let the Christians know who or what they are, but rather
study to their utmost power, to abuse and hurt them as often as they find
an opportunity, nay they would not spare their very lives, if they dare
do it for fear of the _Turkish_ magistrates. In this they are very like
unto the _Abyssins_, who in former ages were subject unto the _Soldans_
of _Ægypt_, and did live on the south side of mount _Libanus_, who, as
defenders and protectors of their own religion, were set out before other
_Saracens_, to murder and kill clandestinely all those that did oppose
their _Mahometan_ laws and religion. But after the _Turkish_ Emperor did
beat the _Soldan_, and took his dominions from him, the fury of these
assassinators was also soon quelled; for the great _Turk_ doth not allow,
in any of his provinces, of murthers, as the _Saracenes_ did, but punish’d
them severely, and keepeth very strict laws that no body may hurt the
other; which you may conclude by this, that if one doth but fetch blood
from the other in the least, he is not only mulcted in one or two ducats,
but sometimes in forty, fifty, nay sometimes in a hundred, according to
the heinousness of the crime, and the ability of the offender; and so he
keepeth subjects in peace and quietness.
Besides these Pilgrims that go to _Mecca_, there are many others in their
great Caravans, that rather, like unto pedlers, endeavour to get thither
with small charges, by the help of their _Carvatschares_, or Inns, and
Hospitals, to make good profit there, by buying and selling, than out
of devotion to wait on their _Mahomet_, and amongst them there are also
sometimes Christians, but at their arrival they must not visit the holy
places, much less touch them. Wherefore they buy before hand all sorts of
merchandizes, chiefly at _Cayro_ (from whence to _Jerusalem_ it is ten
days journey) to sell or swap them at _Mecca_, and other places. Which
custom we need not think to be strange among the _Turks_, seeing that a
great many are found among the _Roman_ Pilgrims, that pretend to be good
Christians, that go pilgrimages to _Rome_, St _Jacob_, _Jerusalem_, &c.
not only to get his Holiness’s absolution and indulgences, but rather to
make good profit of goods they buy for that purpose; or which is more,
they pass over their estates during their absence, into the hands of
others, to reap the benefit thereof with this condition, that if they
return home from these places where they vow’d to go to, they shall have
them restored again with great profit. Now as among all these Pilgrims,
chiefly those that have been oftnest at _Mecca_ are by the _Turks_ in
greatest esteem, and that green colour (which only belongeth to the
Priests to wear) is the sooner allow’d them, whereby they may be known,
as the brothers of St _Jacob_ are known, by the scallop-shells. The fame
it is also with their camels, for on the lower part of one of their
fore-feet you may see as many small chains hung as they have been times
there in Caravans, so that you also may soon discern them.
And that I may return to my purpose again; near to the _Turkish_ Mosque
of the holy Rock, is also another church, which by the Christians, when
they were in possession of _Jerusalem_, was call’d the _Virgin Mary_’s
church, which is very well built, rather bigger than the _Turkish_, and
stands without towards the south on the place of the great porch of the
_Israelites_, which is several times mention’d in the Scriptures _Viz._
_Joh._ x. _Matth._ xxi. where it is calleth the temple and porch of
_Solomon_, where Christ did preach, and drove out the buyers and sellers,
_&c._ Underneath it is a great cave, so wide that some hundred horses may
with ease be drawn up in battalia therein. This is also in the possession
of the _Turks_, and the Christians dare no more come in here than in the
other. By this prohibition _viz._ That the _Mahometans_ shall admit into
their churches or porches thereof no strangers which according to their
laws are not cleansed and washed, you may easily see, that the _Turks_
have taken many ceremonies and laws from the Jews, and according to their
depraved understanding and mind, transcribed them into their _Koran_; so
we see that anciently they have their circumcision, offerings, washings,
fasts at certain times of the year, marrying more than one wife, not
eating any thing that is unclean, or pork, or what is suffocated, not
having bells, nor drinking wine, as the _Levitical_ Priests must not do,
derived from the Jews; but this last law concerning not drinking of wine,
is not only not kept, for they drink thereof without mixture, let it be
as strong as it can, more than any other nation. It being then true that
they choose the fatt with wine presented them by _Moses_, as is before
said, to their own ruin and destruction, wherefore I pray that God may
fulfil their prophecy, _Amen_.
[Illustration]
CHAP. VI.
_Of the ~Saracens~ and ~Turkish~ religion, ceremonies, and hypocritical
life, with a short hint how long time their reign shall last after
~Mahomet~’s decease._
Seeing I have here above made mention, amongst the rest of the places and
churches of _Jerusalem_, of the _Turkish_ Mosques, and also of _Mahomet_
their Prophet; I cannot but also relate something of their hypocritical
and superstitious life and belief, as I have observed in my travels, and
during my stay among them, chiefly something of their outward ceremonies,
good works, wherewith they think to fulfil the laws, to cleanse
themselves from their manifold sins and transgressions, and to obtain
God’s mercy and love. Wherefore they strive that they may be found always
busy in these good works, whereof they reckon the chiefest to be; alms,
pilgrimage, fastings, to make offerings, to abstain from certain food or
drinks, frequent washing, praying, upon which two last they look most of
all, as the true means, by which, if they keep them diligently, they may
be freed and absolved from their sins, according to the promises of their
dear Prophet _Mahomet_. Such and the like have also the Jews had in the
Old Testament, where without doubt their Prophet, being by his mother
an _Ishmaelite_, had them also. But seeing that he also attributeth to
these absolution and satisfaction for our sins, and also consequently
salvation and everlasting life; therefore all those that follow and
believe his doctrine, miss the only Mediator and Saviour Jesus Christ,
of whom as well as of his holy word, they else have a good opinion, as
appeareth by their _Koran_, in whom God the Almighty Father will only
be known, invoked and adored. As St _John_ saith Chap. v. 23. ‘He that
honoureth not the Son, honoureth not the Father that hath sent him.’
And chap. xiv. 9. where Jesus saith, ‘He that hath seen me hath seen the
Father.’ And in _Acts_ iv. 12. it is said, ‘There is no Salvation in any
other, for there is no other name under Heaven given among men, whereby
we must be saved.’ Wherefore although _Mahomet_ doth greatly command
and teach, that we must adore the only God, yet they do not know the
true God, that will only be adored and honour’d in his beloved Son; and
besides _Mahomet_ will not allow that God hath a Son, and much less that
Christ is the true God, in whom we shall believe. For in his diabolical
and blasphemous mind and thoughts he hath this precaution, that if God
should have a Son he might come to be disobedient unto him, as happeneth
sometimes chiefly amongst them, to worldly Princes, which would expose
all creatures in heaven, as well as on earth unto great danger. So he
denieth the Deity of Christ and esteemeth him to be no more (as _Arius_
doth) than a great Saint and meer Man. So he hath the same opinion with
_Macedonius_, of the Holy Ghost, whom and Christ he sometimes maketh
but one person. And so the _Turks_ know no more, by the instruction of
their cursed Prophet, of the true living God (that is one in his essence
and three in person) than when they adored the fire, water and other
elements, nay heaven and earth, (as also the _Persians_ have done) before
they come over to the _Saracens_, and adhered to the doctrine of their
_Mahomet_. And besides they have no more comfort in our Lord Christ, than
the Jews, because they do not believe that Jesus the Son of the _Virgin
Mary_, and messenger of God, was crucify’d, dead and bury’d, but that
another, that was very like him, suffer’d instead of him, because he
was seated in Heaven (where into God received him, and that he was to
return again at the end of the world) a great deal higher than that he
could be so shamefully kill’d by the Jews that impious people; wherefore
the _Turks_ admire it very much, that so many Pilgrims of all nations,
come to see the grave of Christ with so great a devotion, which is not
his. And although the _Turks_ prefer their _Mahomet_ before Christ, and
also do not believe right neither of his essence nor of his person, so
that therefore all their worship, with what devotion soever performed,
is null and in vain, because it is not in Christ: Yet for all that they
praise and esteem Christ very high, and extol him far beyond any man,
as one that was conceived by the Holy Ghost, born of the Virgin _Mary_,
and that hath here on earth carried on his doctrine, and confirm’d it
with powerful miracles. Wherefore they esteem the books of _Moses_, and
the other writings of the Prophets, but chiefly the four Evangelists,
which they call the book _Jugilis_ (and the books of _Moses_ _Thresit_)
as true and godly. And sometimes they pretend so fairly, that an
ordinary Man that is not well instructed in the chief articles of
Christianity, although there is so great a difference, might easily
be seduced, and perswaded. Besides the _Turks_ will not allow, neither
to _Jews_, _Moors_, nor _Christians_, nay not to their own Nation, to
say any thing ill of Christ, nor to curse him, but if any body should
presume to do it, the soles of their feet are struck very severely with
many blows, and he is fined besides according to his ability. So their
Prophet _Mahomet_ commends the holy Scripture very much, and saith,
that it containeth truth and happiness.
If they would but often look into it (as their _Koran_ teacheth them in
several places) to read in it, and mend their lives according to it,
they might easily be brought to the right way again; but he himself doth
not stand by his words, but falleth off again from them afterwards, and
speaketh quite otherways of the holy Scripture, and that so differing,
that he quite contradicts himself. For as he did commend it before, so
now he discommendeth it again, when he saith, that it hath been (because
it is too difficult to be kept) long since quite out of doors, chiefly in
those parts where is written, that we must do good to our enemies; leave
all for his sake; love God with all our heart, _&c._ and our neighbour
as our own self. And that therefore he, _Mahomet_, was peculiarly and
purposely chosen by God Almighty, to bring down with him the _Koran_,
and communicate it to the world (that was then drown’d in lusts, sin and
vices) to reform and bring it to rights again. Besides this, he knew
very well how to disguise his tricks, and how to behave himself in his
life and conversation, devoutly and discreetly towards the people, and
how to blind them under this pretence, that they did believe him, and
receive him the sooner to be a great Prophet and Messenger from God.
When he found that he had got a good party, and a great many adherents
that impowered him, he studied daily more and more to order his laws
so, that they might be acceptable and pleasing to all the world. And
thus he got in a great many places such a fame, that, to our grief in
these times, he hath seduced and possessed a great part of the world
with his erroneous and poisonous doctrine, the _Turks_ closely adhering
to this doctrine, therefore their hearts are so blinded with darkness,
that they cannot have any true knowledge, either of God the Father,
or the Son, or the Holy Ghost, and so they miss of the right way that
would bring them to the knowledge, and acknowledgment of their sins,
and consequently to the remission thereof, and so make them children of
God, and heirs of life everlasting. But on the contrary, they remain
impenitent, and persist in their sinful life with such a confidence and
security, that they know not when they commit sins; as to take a man’s
property and goods away by force; to destroy his house and lands; to
undermine his life and livelihood; and also, to contaminate themselves
with uncleanness, whoredom, sodomy; not to keep an oath that hath been
taken, to revenge themselves, from whence results, envy, hatred, anger,
contention, murder, _&c._ as we hear, what injustice and violence the
Grand Signior committeth daily upon our brethren and sisters, that border
upon his dominions; which we need not to wonder at, because, if they fall
out amongst themselves, they try all unjust means to revenge themselves.
Wherefore they accuse their adversaries often falsly (because they dare
not offer any violence) before their Judges, and so bring them to damage,
trouble and pains. But when they have committed one of these, or the
like facts, and have a mind to free themselves of it, or to be absolved,
they go after their own invented devotion, to good works, alms, prayers,
fasting, redeeming of captives, _&c._ to make satisfaction to God for
their committed sins, as their _Koran_ teacheth them. And so they lead
a life of good outward conversation, and are very diligent in their
devotion, chiefly in going to their prayers at the five customary hours
of the day, when they leave their work and go to church. And seeing that
in these countries they have neither clocks nor watches to tell them the
time of the day and prayers, instead of them they have their priests
(called _Meitzen_ by them) on the steeples, which are ordered to cry out
the hours with a loud voice, that you may hear them as far almost as the
ringing of a bell, even throughout the whole town. The first hour of
prayers is an hour and half before day-light: The second is about noon:
The third (which the _Arabians_ call _Latzera_) is about three o’Clock
in the afternoon: The fourth is at sun-set; and the fifth when after the
sun is down, the twilight, or whitishness of the skies is gone, and the
stars appear clearly. Sometimes two of these priests sing together, which
is common in great towns, and they sing almost as with us they sing a
ballad, so that while the one is singing, the other may fetch his breath;
and so they sing by turns, until the song is at an end. When I came
first into these countries, and hear’d them sing about that time in the
morning, I believed the _Turks_ did it that they might brisk themselves
up to go to work, until I heard them do the same at other hours in the
day time, and understood they were their priests. So they sing about five
o’clock at night very well, and sometimes something longer, because of
the sick that live near, which desire it of them, to make them cheerful,
and to have a good heart, which we need not to wonder at, for their
clergy (which are not wiser, or more learned than the laymen) know not
how to comfort them, or to make them joyful, much less how to give good
and wholesome instruction out of the word of God (although they believe
it to be true) how to obtain forgiveness of sin, and God’s mercy, love,
or commiseration, but think it to be sufficient, if they admonish them
that lie a dying to think of God, and to pray to him that he may have
mercy upon them; and afterwards to wash their body to cleanse them quite
from all sins, according to the law of their _Mahomet_, which they highly
esteem, and that the rather, because they serve not only the living,
but also the dead; wherefore the _Turks_ wash themselves daily, chiefly
at the hours of their prayer, when they are a going to church, and that
very carefully and diligently, _viz._ Their hands, privy members, head,
neck, feet, nay the whole body, according as they are contaminated or
become unclean. So in consideration of their sins, they have three sorts
of washing; whereof one is that of the whole body, which those must make
use of that are not married, and contaminate themselves with concubines;
wherefore the baths are kept continually in an equal heat, and are open
to any body both by day and night, that those that have occasion to
wash their whole body, may not be hindered in their devotion, but soon
go to church again. The second is performed on the organs of the five
senses, and the head, to cleanse them from all spots and blemishes, which
are contracted by ill thought and frivolous and unseemly discourses;
wherefore there are several cisterns here and there, but chiefly in their
churches and chapels, where they wash themselves first, that being clean,
they may be worthy to come to church to prayers, for if they should omit
it, they believe that their prayers would not be acceptable to God, and
so he would not hear them. So they begin first with washing of their
hands, then they lift up the water with the hollow of their hands, and
so let it run down to their elbow; then they wash their mouth, nose,
eyes, ears, head, neck, and at last their feet, and speak some peculiar
words with it. When they have no water, which often happeneth in large
desarts in _Arabia_, they are allowed by their laws instead thereof, to
rub these members over with sand. But that they may not be hindered by
their cloaths from coming to these members, they wear such ones that have
wide sleeves, no gatherings about their neck, nor have any strings about
their drawers. The third sort is also esteemed to be very necessary, and
is made use of as often as they empty their body by stool or urine, or
belching, and so they wash themselves squatting down before the cisterns,
publickly without shame, both before and behind, in the sight of every
body. According to what hath been said, we see that they mind only the
outward cleansing of their body, and so they look also upon the outward
circumcision, rather than to think how they ought, according to God’s
commands, to cleanse themselves from their inward leprosy, by the bath
of regeneration, and to circumcise their hearts by an inward spiritual
circumcision, whereof they know nothing. When their clergymen have cried
out the hours from the steeples to the _Batzars_, or Exchanges, _&c._
and the _Turks_ have washed and cleansed themselves, they go into their
chapels, which are in the middle of their great Camps, or _Carvatschars_,
where I could see it best, because I durst not go into their mosques.
After they have left their shoes at the gate, they do not turn nor look
back for one another to speak, but go strait forwards, until they come to
their places where they stand still, and look upon their priest that is
before them, and mind him when he beginneth the prayers, that they may
say it after him, and imitate his ceremonies or means, whereof he maketh
use, as the lifting up his hands, stroking over his forehead, bending
his whole body forwards, falling down upon his knees, kissing the earth;
and at length when the _Leila hillalla_ beginneth, turning their heads
from one side to the other, whereby they give a hint, that they are in
peace and good will with God and their neighbours. While they are in
their holy places, you shall hear none of them sneeze, cough, hawk or
spit, for they are of opinion, that if they should do so, God would not
hear their prayers so effectually, because they should not be perfectly
clean. They have no set form of their prayers, and pray generally for
good fortune and other worldly welfare; for victory for their Emperor;
that God may send great divisions amongst us Christians, that so they may
have a better opportunity to fall upon us, and to beat us. They suffer no
images in their temples or chapels, and are only for adoring the true and
only God, Creator of heaven and earth; and so instead of them, they have
pictures of fine plants or flowers, _viz._ of roses, _&c._ and writings
of their Prophet _Mahomet_; and so you find on their gold and silver
coins no pictures or images of their Emperors, as upon ours, but only
the names of them, or of the towns where they are stamped, in _Arabian_
letters, (which are common to both nations) together with the date of
the year, which they begin from the time when _Mahomet_ fled into the
desarts, which for that reason they call the year of _Hegira_, where he
got a great number of adherents, and was made by them a King; this was
done in the year of _Christ_ 622. After they have ended their prayers,
they begin to talk to one another, and so every one of them goeth home
to work again; and they are allowed on their feast days (which they keep
on _Friday_, as we do on _Sunday_, and the _Jews_ on _Saturday_) to open
their shops again after prayers, and to go work, because they say that
idleness may the easier draw them into sins. So one may easily know by
their shops, according as they are opened or shut up on these three days,
whether they belong to Christians, _Turks_, or _Jews_; besides, none
of these forceth one to observe the others holydays, and so they live
peaceably and quietly together. Before the _Turks_ holiday beginneth,
they light on _Thursday_ night before, as soon as it beginneth to be
dark, upon their high steeples, many lamps, whereof they hang without
on the galleries round about, three rows one above the other, so that
as you look upon them in the night, they look like unto a threefold
garland; they let them burn so long until they go out of themselves
one after the other. The same lamps they also light every night during
their _Lent_, which beginneth in their month _Romadan_, so called by the
_Arabians_, and doth last all that month long. Their year consisteth
of twelve months, which they account by the moon-lights; so that their
months do not agree with ours, (for theirs have not, one with the other,
above twenty-nine or thirty days) and consequently their years want
between ten or eleven days of ours, so that their _Lent_ falleth at an
uncertain time, sometimes in the spring, and sometimes in the summer,
_&c._ so in my time it began in _December_, and ended in _January_.
During all this time they are very devout, and strive to be at the
prayers and duties; for if any body should die in _Lent_ time, that had
used not to frequent them, they would look upon him as a lost and damned
man, and doubt whether they should bury him or no. During their _Lent_,
they eat nothing before night; when the stars appear, then every one
goeth home to eat, or else in the great _Batzars_ to a cook’s shop, to
buy victuals, where all night long is so great a throng of poor people,
that have nothing to eat at home, that they lift one another almost up;
there you see one eating, another drinking, another crying out, others
quarrelling, which causeth such a crowd and noise, as is enough to make
one deaf and giddy. When _Lent_ is at an end, then they begin their
_Easter_ feast (which they call _Ulubaira_) which they keep with great
solemnity for three days, salute one another very kindly, and with one
the other all health and happiness, as we do on new year’s day: They
also seek all sorts of pastime, chiefly the Janizaries, which in great
places erect gibbets three fathoms high, to the top whereof they tie
strong ropes, almost like as the children do in our country, where they
swing others for a small recompence; when any body sits in it, two stand
ready with a broad string, one on each side, which they fling before
him, and fling him backwards with it, and so set him a swinging. Others
run before the people that are walking, and sprinkle them with sweet
smelling water, to get a little spell of money out of them, chiefly the
Christians, which they will not easily leave before they have satisfied
them; wherefore they are necessitated to stay at home on these days.
Not long after, they keep another peculiar feast, called _Chairbairam_
where they also use all sorts of gesticulations, which were too long to
relate here; they do not fast on those days, but they sacrifice young
steers and wethers, _&c._ cut them into small pieces, to distribute them
among the people, for the honour of _Abraham_, because he did obey God,
and would have sacrificed his son _Isaac_ to him: At this abundance of
heathens congregate themselves in certain places before the towns, to go
in pilgrimage to _Medina-Talnabi_, _Mecca_, and _Jerusalem_, for love to
_Mahomet_. Amongst them many are found, that are recovered again from
dangerous distempers, or delivered from great dangers, and then did make
a vow, either to go on pilgrimage to one of these places, or else to kill
such a number of beasts to distribute among the poor as an alms.
According to what I have said before, that they compute their months
more by the moon-light, and so account twelve of them to a year; they
observe mightily the change of the moon, chiefly the new moon, to see it
again. Wherefore at that time they go often in great numbers out, unto
the next hill, to observe it the better, after sun-set. He that seeth
it first sheweth it with great rejoycing to his companions. In their
prognostications they also mind the moon’s light, and according to that,
they make their account, to know then if any thing shall happen. They
have also (as some of them have told me) a peculiar book, which they keep
very close to themselves, wherein is briefly written, what shall happen
to them every year, whether it be good or bad: This beginneth in the same
year with their Prophet _Mahomet_, and continueth for 1000 years, when
this is at an end they have nothing more of that nature worth any thing.
And being they go no farther, some will deduce or conclude from thence,
that their reign will soon have an end, when those years are passed.
Wherefore they fear the Christians very much, and confess themselves,
that they expect to suffer a great blow from the Christians: And this
one may see or conclude from hence, for on their holidays in the morning
about nine of the clock, they shut up the gates of the towns, great
champs, and other publick habitations, as I found at _Aleppo_, so that
many times I could not get either out or in until they opened them again,
for they fear at that time to be assassinated by the Christians.
Being then that their term of years is near expired, for when I lived
in these places in the year 1575, they writ 982 of this same term, so
that there was not quite 18 years more to come. Now if we compare these
1000 years with those whereof _John_ the Evangelist and Apostle, maketh
mention in his _Revelations_, chap. xx. 7, saying, ‘When the thousand
years are expired _Satan_ shall be loosed out of prison. And shall go
out to deceive the nations which are in the four quarters of the earth,
_Gog_ and _Magog_ to gather them together to battle’ (as also is written
in this same book of _Revelations_ in chap. ix. and by the holy Prophet
_Ezekiel_, in chap. xxxviii. xxxix.) ‘The number of whom is as the sand
of the sea, _&c._’ We find not only that they may also be interpreted and
applied to the _Turks_ and their adherents, but also that they have begun
their reign almost at the same time when _Mahomet_ and the _Antichrist_
should appear, about the year 666 as we read in the 13th chapter and the
last verse of St _John_ in his _Revelation_. And besides, it looketh in
these miserable times (when it seems as if every thing would turn topsy
turvy) that these years are passed, and that Satan is loosed, as if
our dear Lord God would make an end of this malicious world. Add, that
some learned Mathematicians do prognosticate that at these times, but
chiefly in the year 1588. great alterations will be in all the parts
of the world. When we add to this date the 42 months, or 1260 days, or
three years and a half, whereof the Prophet _Daniel_, and also the holy
Evangelist and Apostle _John_ in his _Revelation_ makes mention, the 18
years that are still wanting of the 1000 years of their _Mahomet_ (as is
above said) will be compleated, so that these two years numbers do very
well again agree together.
_God the Almighty preserve us in all adversities, that we may persevere
in the acknowledged truth of his Holy Gospel, and send us penitent
hearts, that we may be sensible of his merciful visitations, and also
overcome the two last woes that are not quite over, with patience.
~Amen.~_
[Illustration]
CHAP. VII.
_Of Mount ~Bethzetha~, and the two Houses of ~Pilate~ and ~Herod~._
From the temple mount towards the north, you come presently towards
the house of judicature, where _Pontius Pilate_ did live, and condemn
innocent Lord _Christ_, to that heinous death of the cross. But because
the house hath been since surrounded with high walls, we saw in the court
(where the Soldiers did clothe our Lord _Christ_ with the purple cloak,
and put upon his head the crown of thorns, and afterwards did spit upon
him, and mock, beat and whip him) nothing remarkable, but only without
a very old and high arch, like unto an arched bridge. This is almost
black with age, and so artificially erected, that one can hardly find any
juncture, where the stones are put together. This was the High Place,
as it is said, before the Judgment Hall, whereon the condemned men use
to be exposed to the sight of the people, because the _Jews_ durst not
go into the House of Judicature at their high feasts, as _Easter_ and
_Whitsuntide_ (as you may read in St _John_, chap. xviii.) that they
might not make themselves unclean, but eat of the Paschal Lamb: Wherefore
_Pilate_ did several times go out to the people to shew them our Lord
_Christ_, and sit down in the Judgment seat, in a place that is called
the Pavement, but in the Hebrew _Gabbatha_, as you read in St _John_,
chap. xix. ver. 13. This arch is open at the top in the middle, and hath
two other small arches about the wideness of an ordinary door one by the
other supported by a marble column, in one of them stood _Christ_ with
his crown of thorns on, and _Pontius Pilate_ in the other, when he said
to the people, _Behold the man_.
Hard by at the other side of the arch, on the right hand, on an ascent,
they shew the habitation of King _Herod_, which is still very fine, and
gloriously built of marble. Wherefore, although it is not the same, which
hath been burnt long agone by the _Jews_, and afterwards rooted out by
the _Romans_, yet it is built in the same place, where the King’s palace
did stand, on the height of mount _Bethzetha_, as _Josephus_ testifieth,
from the north over against the temple, and the fort _Antonia_, where our
dear Lord _Christ_ was mocked and abused by _Herod_ and his servants, and
had a white garment put upon him, and so was sent back again to _Pilate_.
In these habitations, chiefly those of _Pilate_, are still to this day,
_Turkish_ magistrates, Sangiacks, Cadis, and Soubashaws dwelling, that
keep courts of judicature there; and therefore nobody is admitted to come
in before he hath gratified the master and servants. These magistrates
are very severe, and punish their subjects for no great matter, either
in their body or purse, or with a certain number of stripes, which they
give with straps of rough neats leather upon the soles of their feet,
fewer or more, in proportion to their committed crimes more or less;
which sort of punishment is very common to all eastern countries. This
sort of punishment is very ancient, and mention thereof is made in
_Deuteronomy_ chap. xxv. ver. 2. ‘And it shall be, if the wicked man be
worthy to be beaten, that the judge shall cause him to lie down, and to
be beaten before his face, according to his fault by a certain number,
forty stripes he may give him and not exceed; least if he should exceed,
and beat him above these with many stripes, then thy brother should seem
vile unto thee.’ So the holy Apostle St _Paul_ hath received them several
times, whereof he maketh mention in II. _Corinthians_ chap. xi. ver. 23.
where he saith, ‘I am in labours more abundant, in stripes above measure,
in prisons more frequent, in deaths often. Of the _Jews_ five times
received I forty stripes save one.’
When we came back from these habitations, we saw some more remarkable
places, which are usually shewn unto pilgrims, some whereof are mentioned
in Scripture, _viz._ the iron gate, through which the angel of the Lord
did conduct St _Peter_ out of prison: The habitation of _Mary_ the mother
of St _John_, where the holy Apostle _Peter_ did knock at the door: The
temple of St _John_ the Evangelist, whereof the Knights of the order of
St _John_ call themselves, and several others, which are for the most
part fallen down, and lie in ruins. But because in these times, it is
uncertain in what condition they were then, I also omit to say any more
of them. After we had seen these two places with their habitations; we
returned back again at night, according to the appointment of the father
Guardian, to go with us into the temple of mount _Calvaria_.
CHAP. VIII.
_Of the Mount ~Calvaria~, and the Holy Grave of our Lord and Saviour
~Jesus Christ~._
On the 27th of _September_ in the year 1575 after dinner, the father
Guardian did send to the other Lords of the temple, to let us into
the temple of mount _Calvaria_, which the _Turks_ keep always locked
up. But we and some other friars in their own habit, went with their
father Guardian to the temple of the mount, which first of all the
pious Queen _Hellen_, mother of the great Emperor _Constantine_ (after
she had destroyed the temple of _Venus_ that was built upon the place
of the grave) did build, as she did also build several churches in
several places, _viz._ That at _Bethlehem_, where _Christ_ was born:
That of the holy Apostle _James_ the Great, in the place of the upper
town where he was beheaded: And another on the mount of Olives, where
_Christ_ did ascend into heaven: As also another at _Bethania_, where
_Christ_ did raise _Lazarus_ his dear friend from the dead, and in many
other places, at _Nazareth_, and on the mount _Thabor_, &c. But when
afterward the city of _Jerusalem_ was many times besieged, and at length
taken from the Christians, by the unbelieving _Saracens_, _Hequen_ that
malicious King of _Ægypt_, did in the year of Christ 1011, demolish
these churches, and so they remained until after his decease his son
_Daber_ came to the government, who afterwards in the year 37. did give
leave to _Constantine_ the Emperor of _Constantinople_ (when he renewed
with him their old correspondency) to rebuild it again at his own cost
and charges. In these our times, when it remaineth in the possession of
the _Turks_, free egress and regress is quite denied to the Christian
Pilgrims that come to see the holy places: For when they saw that many
Christians came yearly thither from all places, _viz._ From _Armenia_,
_Æthiopia_, _Syria_, _Ægypt_, _Greece_, _Italy_, nay from all places of
_Europe_, they have put a certain sum of money (according as they are
near, or farther off, under his dominions or not) to be paid by them,
to be admitted. For some pay two or three seckins or ducats, others
four and five; but we that are outlandish, as _Italians_, _Frenchmen_,
and _Germans_ (as well knowing we do not spare for money) must pay
nine seckins a piece, and that without any remission, must be paid in
weighty _Turkish_ or _Venetian_ ducats: And they keep the temple locked
up close, until every one of them has paid their due: By these means
the Grand Signior hath acquired himself a considerable yearly revenue,
which amounts to several thousand ducats yearly. But yet it is now-a-days
nothing near to what it hath been formerly, when all was under Popish
darkness, and the Pilgrims used to flock thither in great numbers.
For since in our time, by the Grace of God, the holy Gospel hath been
brought to light again, and began to be preached, (which sheweth us a far
nearer and better way to find Christ, and to have true and full pardon
and remission of our sins) so that daily more come to the knowledge of
the truth, and return to the Lord, his revenues decrease as much as the
number of the Pilgrims that used to resort thither.
When we came pretty near to the temple, and expected to have seen mount
_Calvaria_, the _Franciscans_ told us, that this mount, together with the
holy grave, and the garden (wherein Christ did first appear unto _Mary
Magdalen_) were intirely taken into the temple, so that no heigth at all
was to be seen without.