Just without _Bethlehem_, at the other side of the path, towards the

east, for formerly the town reached so far, they shew still the stable

under a large rock, wherein _Jesus Christ_, the promised _Messias_, God

and Man, was born of the immaculate Virgin _Mary_, and laid in a manger.

Of his coming, and the place where he should be born, the holy prophet

_Micah_ long before prophesied in his fifth chapter, and second verse,

saying: ‘But thou _Bethlehem Ephrata_, though thou be little among the

thousands of _Juda_, yet out of thee shall he come forth unto me, that

is to be ruler in _Israel_; whose goings forth have been from of old,

from everlasting.’ On that place hath _Helena_, mother of _Constantine_

the Great, also build a stately church; but since it is so ruined and

demolished, that hardly half of it is left, as one may see by the old

walls of the foundation, and other places and arches that are still left

without; yet that part that still remaineth standing, is very large,

covered with lead at top, and is so glorious a building, that one shall

hardly find a better any where. For within it is paved with white marble

all over, and upheld with a great many large and high marble pillars,

each whereof is about nine spans in diameter; I told about fifty of them,

they stand without before the chancel (and underneath them is the place

of the holy and joyful birth of our Lord _Jesus Christ_) in four rows one

behind the other, and so give a glorious ornament to the whole church.

There are also to be seen on the arches and the walls about, some fine

histories taken out of the Old Testament, made in _Mosaick_ work, laid

in with colours very artificially; and are still so plain to be seen

and discerned, as if they were made but the other day. The cave wherein

_Christ_ was born, hath without, on each side of the chancel, underneath

which is a peculiar way into it, one against the other, the doors thereof

are commonly locked up, because behind the church, there is still

another, through which they generally go down into it; therein is below

at the right hand still another less one, going down two steps more,

which is the true stable, wherein our Saviour _Jesus Christ_ did lie in

the manger between the ox and ass; so there is still in the same place

made a marble one very well wrought. Without before it we put off our

shoes, and went in with the father Guardian into the holy place. Where,

when I considered the joyful birth of our Lord _Jesus Christ_; where he,

as the true long before promised _Messias_ and Saviour was born; I was

affected, as if I saw the child wrapt up in swadling cloaths, and lying

in the manger, disguised in our mortal flesh and blood, yet without sin,

that we as children of wrath and eternal damnation, might be received

again by God his Heavenly Father, as his children unto everlasting

salvation; that did humble himself so low, as to be born in a dark stable

in the miserablest poverty, that he might bring us out from the filth

and mire of sin wherein we lay, into the parlour of his Heavenly Father.

‘Seeing then, my dear Lord _Jesus Christ_, that thou art come to us

into the world, as the true light, to make of us, that were children of

darkness and eternal damnation, children of light and eternal salvation

and felicity; I return unto thee, O Lord, for these thy unspeakable

benefits, eternal praises, and seeing that thou hast assumed our flesh

and blood, and hast also caused these thy merits and benefits to be by

thy holy angels proffered to me; therefore I pray thee let me come to

thee with the poor shepherds, and see thy saving incarnation, give me and

us all thy grace and holy spirit, that we may comfort our selves with

this thy blessed birth, against our sinful and impure one, constantly and

without cessation, that we may rejoice in it, in good and bad times, in

tribulations and adversities, in prosperous success and ill fortune, in

the time of this temporal life, heartily, until at length we shall, in

the life to come, see thee with all the elected ones, face to face, to

all eternity.’ Amen.

This cave is underneath about the walls, lined with long tables of grey

marble, adorned with blue, artificially laid in; the rock that cometh

out over the stable only excepted. Just by the furthermost entry of the

fine chapel there are others, in one whereof St _Jerom_ did live, and did

translate the Bible out of the _Hebrew_ and _Chaldean_ languages into

the _Latin_. In another near it, lieth buried the noble pious _Roman_

lady _Paula_, with her daughter _Eustachia_. Who, after the decease of

her husband, went thither to St _Jerom_, where she led all the rest of

her days in Christian piety, until at length she died in the Lord. From

thence we came up again into the church, wherein without close to the

chancel each side, were to be seen two altars, covered with good large

marble; on one thereof on the left, the father Guardian did shew me the

effigies of the old _Simeon_, holding the child _Jesus_ in his arms,

and in the manger still another, with this admonition. ‘That from hence

we may see, conclude and learn, that it is not culpable at all to have

images, seeing that nature itself alloweth so much unto stones, that

images may grow in them. Wherefore they are not only not to be forbidden,

but rather to be honoured.’ What every Christian ought to think of this,

being quite contrary to the holy Scripture, every child that hath but

begun to learn the Catechism, can easily and sufficiently decide. The

_Franciscan_ monks have near the church, a large and pleasant habitation,

and also by it great gardens (rich of fine plants and good fruits)

defended round about with high walls, against the incursions of the

_Arabians_, which they make daily. _Bethlehem_ lieth high, surrounded by

the hills of _Judæa_, as you may see by the words of _Jeremiah_, chap.

xxxi. verse 15. where he doth prophecy the murdering of the children,

which cruel tyranny _Herod Ascalonit_ did a great while after in Christ’s

time execute, the words are these: ‘Thus saith the Lord, a voice was

heard in _Ramah_, lamentation and bitter weeping: _Rachel_ weeping for

her children, refused to be comforted for her children because they

were not.’ In this monastery, because it lieth at the top of the path,

you see with pleasure, as well as on mount _Olivet_, the confines of

_Jericho_, and the Dead Sea, and the mountains of _Arabia_, but chiefly

within the space of a league and a half towards the south, a great and

high hill, which extends itself much farther than the rest; whereupon,

in former years, the strong and mighty castle of _Theckoa_ was built,

whereof the holy Prophet _Jeremias_ maketh mention in his sixth chapter,

and also _Amos_ (who did prophecy there) in his first chapter. The

Christians had this in possession a great while, and did keep it against

the Infidels and Heathens for above thirty years after _Jerusalem_ and

the Holy Land were taken; for they had corn, wine, water, and other

necessaries, abundantly of their own growing, so that they might have

kept it longer, if a great contagious distemper had not got among them,

which did increase to that degree, that they were forced to leave it, and

to retire to more healthy places. When the Heathens did understand that

the Christians were marched off, they fell into the castle with a great

multitude, tore it all to pieces, and did demolish it to the very ground,

so that now one cannot discern that such a one did stand there before.

But this lost troop of the Christians, did at length settle themselves on

mount _Libanus_, and began to inhabit it, where they are still remaining

in our times, and call themselves (as I have told you before) _Trusci_.

About _Bethlehem_, there are some valleys very well tilled with corn and

vines, and among the rest a very pleasant and fruitful one that beginneth

immediately by the church and fountain, and runs down towards _Jericho_

and _Jordan_. This is below pretty wide, full of Olive and Fig-trees,

it also bringeth forth some comfortable herbs, _viz._ some strange

_Origanums_, _Tragoriganum_, _Roman Serpillum_, which the _Arabians_

call _Sathar_, _Absinthium Santonicum_, which groweth every where in the

Holy Land, this hath small ash coloured leaves, very like unto them of

ours, and many small stalks full of small yellowish seeds, it is of an

unpleasant smell, very bitter, with a saltish sharpness, wherefore it is

reputed to be the _Scheba_ of the _Arabians_; from whence our Wormseed

cometh.

In this valley were the shepherds, to whom the angels of the Lord did

appear, and declared to them the saving birth of our Lord _Jesus Christ_,

saying, ‘Behold I bring you good tidings of great joy, which shall be

to all people; for unto you is born this day, in the city of _David_, a

Saviour, which is _Christ_ the Lord, _&c._ and suddenly there was with

the angel a multitude of the heavenly host, praising God, and saying:

Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, good will towards men.’

In that place, which is about half a league below _Bethlehem_, is still a

church, which also Queen _Helena_ did build, as _Nicephorus_ testifieth

in the thirtieth chapter of his eighth book, this is for the greatest

part fallen in, so that nothing more but a small arch is to be seen of

it. Hard by it did stand the tower _Ader_, as St _Jerom_ writes, whereby

_Israel_ did erect a tent, (as you may read in _Genesis_:) and looked

after the sheep with his twelve sons. This is in our time so demolished,

that it lieth quite in ruins. Beyond it, in another valley, not far from

_Bethlehem_, they shew still to this day a large orchard full of Citron,

Lemon, Orange, Pomegranate, and Fig-trees, and many others; which King

_Solomon_ did plant in his days, with ponds, canals, and other water

works, very pleasantly prepared; as he saith himself in _Eccles._ chap.

ii. verse 5. ‘I made me gardens and orchards, and I planted trees in

them of all kind of fruits; I made me pools of water, to water therewith

the wood that bringeth forth trees.’ This is still in our time full of

good and fruitful trees, wherefore it is worthy to be seen for their

sakes, and also for the ditches sake that are still there. Wherefore I

really believe it to be that same whereof _Josephus_ maketh mention in

his eighth book of the _Jewish Antiquities_, and the seventh chapter;

saying, ‘And the King rode in a chariot, cloathed in white, and it was

his custom to ride early in the morning to a place called _Hetten_, a

hundred furlongs from _Jerusalem_, where he had a garden with water

pools and works very pleasant, and rich. Thither went the King for his

pleasure; and did always use great diligence and consideration in all

things, and took delight to see every thing neat and handsome.’ _&c._

After we had seen the chiefest places within and without, near and afar

off _Bethlehem_, we returned to _Jerusalem_ again by another way, that

was near as far again about, and went over the mountains of _Judea_,

which have first as you come from thence very good and fruitful valleys,

full of vines and corn, but the nearer you come to _Jerusalem_, the

higher and rougher are the mountains. In this way, half a league from

_Nebeleschol_, the friers shewed us a well very rich of water, just by

the road that goeth down to _Gaza_, this runneth into a small rivulet,

wherein the holy Apostle _Phillip_ did baptize _Candaces_ chamberlain

to the Queen of _Ethiopia_; by it, is nothing else to be seen but a

small church and a fish pond. From thence we came over high, rough and

steep hills into the deserts, where St _John_ the _Baptist_ did lead his

life in his young age, there is nothing to be seen but a very ancient

chapel, and hard by it a delicate spring on the top of the hill, where

we went up to refresh ourselves a little, with eating and drinking of

what we had taken along with us. About the roads grow many trees, by the

inhabitants called _Charnubi_, the fruit whereof is called _St John_’s

_Bread_ in our country, and is brought to us in great plenty. From thence

we had still a very rough and hilly way to the church and habitation

of _Zachary_, whither the Virgin _Mary_ did come (climbing over the

hills) to give _Elizabeth_ a visit, _&c._ Before it, a league distance

nearer to the town, at the end of the valley _Raphaim_ (whereof the holy

Scripture maketh often mention, _viz._ in _Joshua_ xv. and xviii. and

in I _Chronicles_ chap. xii.) stands in a very pleasant and fruitful

place, the church of St _John_ the _Baptist_; and by it, before you

come quite to it, falleth down the spring of _Nephthaah_, that is very

rich of water. This church is very ancient, but yet pretty well built,

and hath on the left hand as you go in, a deep and hidden cave, wherein

_Elizabeth_ did hide herself with _John_ her child, that it might not

be slain with the children of _Bethlehem_ by the servants of _Herod_,

whereof you may read more in the _Proto-Evangelium_ of St _Jacob_, where

it is thus written: ‘When _Elizabeth_ did hear, that among the rest of

the innocents which _Herod_ had commanded to be killed, her son _John_

was also searched for, she did climb up the hills, and looked about her

where she might hide him; but when she saw no place there where she could

preserve him, she sighed, and cried out with a loud voice, saying: _O ye

hills of ~Gad~, take both the mother and the child_; for she could not

ascend them; the hill did open itself instantly, and took them into it,

_&c._’ But how afterwards _Herod_ did search for _John_, and how he did

threaten and exhort his father _Zachary_ to tell him where his son was,

and also how his servants did kill _Zachary_ (not being satisfied with

his answer) for it in the porch of the temple is at length related in the

books of the martyrs of the learned and reverend _Ludowich Rabus_. As you

come from the beforementioned church, nearer to the town of _Jerusalem_,

there is still seen a large pillar, that is of great antiquity, and lieth

very high between the mountains on a high hill, five furlongs off of

_Jerusalem_, wherefore some take it to be ruins of the fortification of

_Betzura_; but as far one can understand by the books of _Maccabees_,

that is situated more towards the east behind mount _Olivet_. Just before

it, within, stands in the valley (that is full of pleasant Olive-trees)

a very old, yet well built church, called the Holy Cross, whereof some

_Greek_ friers are possessed; they pretend, that in that place the tree

did stand, that was made use of for the cross of Christ: this we did

soon leave, and went over a small height through the gate of _Hebron_

again into _Jerusalem_, and made ourselves ready to return the next

day again to _Joppe_ towards our ship. And so we rewarded the father

Guardian, their interpreter, and others that had conducted us, for their

faithfulness and services done us according to our ability, to their

full content and satisfaction, wherefore the father Guardian did freely

give to each of us a certificate under his usual seal, that we had seen

all the holy places which were named in it. This done, we went away,

and came the next day to _Rama_ towards _Joppe_. By the way, I found

some _Lentiscus_’s, from whence the _Mastich_ cometh, _Arbutus_, _Ilex_,

and a strange sort of Willows, by the inhabitants called _Sassaf_, but

by _Theophrastus_, _Elæagnus_, some Olive-trees, Palm-trees, white

Mulberry-trees, _Sumach_-trees, and _Styrax_, from which cometh a sweet

smelling Gum, called by the same name, that is brought from thence into

our country; _Spartium_, _Lycium_, which is a strange shrub, and the

juice thereof retaineth the same name, and is found sometimes in our

Apothecaries shops; the King and Prophet _David_ maketh mention thereof,

under the _Hebrew_ name _Hadhadd_, by which also the _Arabians_ call it,

their speech running much upon the _Hebrew_. Hereabout grow also very

many fruits (called _Siliquæ_ by the _Latins_, and κερατιὰ and κερατονία

by the _Greeks_, but by the inhabitants _Charnubi_) whereof many are

brought out to us, and are very well known by the name of St _John_’s

_Bread_. These are so common in these countries, that they esteem them

less than we do the worst fruit we have, wherefore they give them to the

cattle to eat. Wherefore it is probable, that the prodigal son desired to

fill his belly with these fruits, which, as it appeareth by the _Greek_

text, the hogs did eat, and yet could not have enough of them to satisfy

his hunger. Besides these, I found also by the way many Turpentine-trees,

by the inhabitants called _Botin_ and _Albotin_, which are very common in

_France_, chiefly about _Montpelier_, they have small green kernels, that

are of a reddish colour, and hollow within, and are oftentimes basely

sold and used by the Apothecaries for the true _Carpabalsamum_; for these

and others abovementioned, as we read in _Nehemiah_, chap. viii. the

_Israelites_ did take bows, and made themselves tents of them to live

in, during their great feast of Tabernacles. I saw also chiefly between

_Rama_ and _Joppa_ some white _Barberry_-trees, which I took first for

_Paliurus_, the third kind of _Rhamnus_, unto which they are very like,

except the fruits whereby I did discern them first, and besides, they are

much higher, and their branches covered with a white bark. Now although

they are not to be taken for the same, yet they are very like unto the

second _Paliurus_, whereof _Theophrastus_ maketh mention in the fourth

chapter, and the fourth verse. Among the corn, I did find a strange

_Origanum_, _Serpillum_; _Smilax aspera_, _Triones_ of _Theophrastus_,

whereof I have made mention above.

After we had made our selves quite ready to sail for _Tripolis_, whither

we had about forty _German_ miles, we went aboard the ship, and set sail

with a fair wind. But this did not last long, for, as soon as we were

out at sea, there arose one that was so contrary to us, that we hardly

reached the confines of _Tirus_ and _Sidon_ the fourth day, where we

arrived in our former voyage at night, as I have said before. I saw

nothing of any buildings on the shoar, but some small houses in the place

where formerly the town _Sarepta_ did stand, which (as you may read

in St _Luke_, chap. iv. and in III _Kings_, chap. xvii.) was situated

near unto _Sidon_, or as _Josephus_ writes in his eighth of the _Jewish

Antiquities_, chap. xiii. between _Tyrus_ and _Sydon_, in the country of

_Phœnicia_, wherein the holy prophet _Elias_, during the great scarcity,

did live a great while with a widow, and did restore her dead son to life

again.

Departing thence, the night befel us before we gat overagainst _Sidon_,

but we went so near the town, that we could see the houses, and some

rocks butting upon them by moon-light. From thence, the nearer we came to

_Tripolis_, the more the wind was for us, so that we arrived there on the

first of _October_ in the year 1575, in very good health and condition.

Wherefore I give eternal thanks, glory and praise unto the Almighty God

the Father, Son, and Holy Ghost. _Amen._

CHAP. XXIII.

_How I took ship at ~Tripolis~ in ~Syria~, and sail’d back from thence to

~Venice~, and travell’d home again to my own relations at ~Augspurg~._

At my arrival at _Tripolis_, when I hoped that something might have

been done for the good of _Hans Ulrich Krafft_, whom I left in prison

behind, as is above mention’d, towards his deliverance; that we, seeing

we came out together, might have remained together a while longer, and

have ended our journey to our content, I found there was not only nothing

done to the purpose, but his cause came to be worse and worse, so that

it was even or odd whether I should not have been cast into prison also,

and beaten severely to boot. When thus he was detain’d in prison, I

receiv’d a letter and command, as well from his adversary, as from my

own friends, desiring me to take the cause in hand earnestly, to bring

them both to an accommodation; and that if I would do so, I should do him

greater service, than if I should stay a whole year longer at _Tripoli_,

expecting his deliverance. Now altho’ many means were used after my

departure, for his liberty, yet they proved all fruitless, unsuccessful

and vain, so that he was forced to spend three intire years miserably in

this severe _Turkish_ imprisonment, until at length he was miraculously

deliver’d. Wherefore I got everything ready for my departure, and went

aboard the ship called the St _Matthew_, on the day of St _Leonhard_,

being the sixth day of _November_ in the year 1575, having first taken my

leave of the above-mention’d my dear friend _Hans Ulrich Krafft_, whom I

loved as my own brother, and the next day we put out, having a very good

wind. So our navigation proceeded in the beginning very successfully,

and we discover’d on the third day early the great island of _Cyprus_.

But when we approach’d unto it, a hurricane arose suddenly, and blew so

fiercely upon us, that it wound our great sail round about our main

mast, so that it was a wonder to me, that it did not bring it by the

board, or (as it would if the seamen had not struck it down immediately)

turn the ship over, and sink her. These winds arise from a wind that

is call’d by the _Greeks_, _Typhon_; and _Pliny_ calleth it _Vertex_

and _Vortex_; but as dangerous as they are, as they arise suddenly, so

quickly they are laid again also. The seamen pretend, that one shall

sooner perceive them in the ship below, because they come up from the

depth of the sea, than above deck. After this had continued about a

quarter of an hour it was quite over, so that it was perfectly calm,

and the sea very quiet. So our seamen hoisted up their sail again, and

steered towards the _Capo del Græco_, with an intention to run in still

before sun-set into the harbour of the metropolis call’d _Famagusta_;

but before we were aware of it, another wind arose that did send us back

again, so we stood out at sea, and went on with it so well, that we

passed the island that is one hundred and sixty _Italian_ miles long.

Not long after the wind did change, and it came to be foul weather, and

so contrary to us, that we went on but very slowly, and we were forced

to drive upon the sea only for several days, until at length we came

before the land of _Pamphylia_ and _Lycia_, which came in sight now and

then, nearer to the island of _Rhodes_; then arose a northerly wind that

helped us into our true road again, and blew so fresh, that in a few

hours we went by that mountainous island _Scarpanthus_, and afterwards by

_Solomon_’s point of the isle of _Candia_ out towards the south, which

is forty leagues farther; and we had been almost quite thrown over into

_Africa_, if we had not sheltered ourselves under the next mountains, so

we got clear of the noise and turbulency of the wind and sea; but instead

of that our ship came so near unto the shoar of _Candia_, that we feared

every moment to have been shipwreck’d, which had certainly befallen us,

if our _Nacchier_, that managed the sails, with his seamen (who wrought

very hard, until they brought the ship out at sea again) had not for

two days and nights done their utmost endeavour. When we kept thus out

at sea, foul weather befel us again, and contrary and rough winds blew

afresh, so that it was very dangerous sailing; wherefore our master as

well as the men thought it best to get into an harbour; but finding that

it was very dangerous to get in there, they went back again to the island

_Calderon_, which lieth not above a _German_ mile from _Candia_, to land

there, and to stay for better weather. This island is small, and so rough

and sandy within, that it cannot be inhabited; but yet being full of

bushes, those of _Candy_, turn, chiefly in the summer, their cattel into

it. Here I found a kind of Mandrake with blew flowers in great quantity,

and also very many _Oxycedri_ like unto our Juniper bushes, which are

almost as high as our Pine-trees. When we, during this hard weather, were

in this island _Calderon_ for shelter, we saw sometimes clouds in the

shape of a pillar, that came down from the skies to the next mountain,

and so extended themselves sloping down into the next sea. _Pliny_ makes

mention also of them in his forty ninth chapter of the second book. When

this did touch the sea, it begun to suck, as it were, thro’ a spout so

fiercely, that the water began to move in that place, as if it were in a

storm, so that we could not only hear the noise, but also see the great

motion thereof. In the beginning it was pretty clear, but the longer it

remained there the darker it grew, until at length it arose up again and

ascended into the skies like unto a thick cloud. Wherefore it may very

well be, that sometimes worms, frogs, fungusses, snails, muscles, _&c._

may fall down with the rain, chiefly in those places that are near to the

sea; for I have myself seen it many times in my travels between _Bononia_

and _Florence_ on the high mountains, where I have found several of them.

When the wind blew fair for us again, and we had sufficiently provided

ourselves with wood and fresh water, we hoisted up our sails again and

came away; and at length, not without great labour and changing of the

wind, we got out before the island of _Candy_, which is about two hundred

and fifty _Italian_ leagues long, into the open sea, with an intention to

go strait away for _Venice_. In the mean time one of our seamen did catch

on a hook, that he had baited with some meat, a large fish, by the Latins

call’d _Lamia_, but this fish being of some hundred weight in bulk, he

brought him upon the hook by degrees to the ship, then they fastened a

rope about his gills, and so drew him up very safely. When they did cut

it open to salt it, I found that it’s bones were but very small, and not

harder than a cartilage. They gave us now and then some of it to eat,

but it was so much salted, that we could not eat it, so that at last

they were forced to leave it. Soon after one of the Pilgrims, that was

a Priest at _Lille_ in _Flanders_, got a bloody flux so violently, that

he was in danger of his life, so I took care of him, and gave him what

physic I had by me in the ship. When we came to the island of _Cerygo_,

else call’d _Cithera_, belonging to the _Venetians_, lying near to the

_Morea_, (from whence _Paris_ took away the Queen of King _Menelaus_,

and carry’d her to _Troy_) upon a sudden a hurricane arose towards night

with blowing, thundering and lightening, so that we at several times did

despair of our lives. For when the waves swelled as big as large rocks,

and pressed very hard upon our ship, so that they did fling it now on

this, and then on the other side again, with great violence; so that

not only our goods, arms, trunks, and boxes were tumbled up and down in

the ship, but that also we were forced to take great care of ourselves

during this tempest, that we might not tumble over board, of which we

were in great danger. But how terribly soever this looked in the dark

night, yet it still increased; for in a little while after the place that

held the cannon shot that were near unto the steerage, where I had my

cabin, broke open, so that the balls ran up and down over all the ship

according as she rolled. Soon after the beating of the waves knock’d off

the garland that was behind at the outside of the ship, and left some

nails about a finger thick, that held it in the wood, with such a power,

that one might hear it almost all over the ship. After all this the great

sail was also torn off and fell down into the sea, so that we thought

no less than that we were all lost; for then the ship was wholly left

to the mercy of the roaring waves, that flung her, and tossed her about

like a football from place to place, (which you may deduce from thence,

that the Guardian that held himself fast by the main mast upon the deck,

was sometimes above a man’s depth under water) so that every moment we

expected to be overturned, and drown’d. Yet in all this calamity, we

did not give over all, but did what we could for our safety, seeing that

we could not do what we would, we stood together and pulled the sail

out again, yet we did not all pull together, for it was so dark that we

could not see one another but when it lightened, and in the place of the

torn one we put up another new one; for generally in such ships they are

provided with two sails, and also with two masts and rudders. After the

seamen had put on the new sail, not without great labour, difficulty

and danger, they fell down upon their knees, and began to pray to their

intercessors and patrons, which every one chused for himself, by their

names, some to _Peter_, others to St _Paul_, others to the holy Virgin

_Mary_, but chiefly and before all the rest to St _Nicholas_, who in the

like imminent dangers, necessities and calamities, hath oftenest before

all the rest shew’d himself by sundry tokens, according to their opinion,

ready to assist and to help, so that they might be sure of his help, and

so comfort themselves with a certain deliverance.

After they had said their prayers, they let me understand that they had

seen three burning candles on the top of the main mast, wherefore some of

them for joy vowed solemnly to go a Pilgrimage to certain Holy Places,

or else to give a certain Sum to one of their churches. This tempestuous

weather held on all the night long and also for a great part of the next

day, so that the seamen prayed three several times; I cannot justly tell

whether I was more astonished at their prayers or at the tempestuousness

of the sea, but chiefly when I understood, that they sought, without

_Christ_ our true Saviour and Helper, in this great danger to others,

and such that did not only know nothing of us, as we may see by the

words of _Esaiah_, when he saith, _Abraham knoweth nothing of us, and

Israel doth not know us_; but that they also (if they had been still

alive) would have directed us themselves to the true and only Mediator

_Jesus Christ_. And so we read, That the virgin _Mary_ her self did not

know what was become of her Son, until she found him sitting amongst

the teachers in the temple of _Jerusalem_: and also at the wedding of

_Cana_ in _Galilea_, she did direct the servants (that told her that

they wanted wine) herself to her son our Lord _Christ_, (that they might

not look upon her any more) when she saith to them, _What he bids you

so do_. Seeing then that the saints will not receive such honour that

only belongs unto the Lord, and on the contrary, the Lord bids us come

to him, I turned from them all to _Christ_ (when our ship was almost

quite covered over with the waves) to awake the _Lord_ as his Disciples

did when he was asleep, saying, _Lord help us or else we perish_; and

with the Apostle St _Peter_, _O Lord save and deliver us, let us not sink

down quite, but draw us out from the depth of the sea, and preserve

us graciously in this great danger_. This tempest made our seamen so

distracted, that they did hardly know whether, and how far the weather

had drove us out of our way, until we came quite about the _Morea_, and

saw the Island _Zant_ (formerly called _Zacynthus_). This we left on our

right, and did go strait forwards to the next Island of _Cephalonia_.

This is about 250 leagues distant from _Candy_, and doth belong as well

as _Zant_, to the _Venetians_, and had over against us a fine large and

strong port called _Argostala_, before which it was 14 days before we

arrived: towards the left, a ship (being under full sail before a strong

wind and missing the entry) was staved all in pieces. Into this we got

(the Lord be thanked) safe, and remained there for some days to refresh

ourselves. Just behind this island is the channel _Viscardo_, wherein the

great _Armada_ of the _Christians_ did ride against the _Turkish_ ones,

until at length it came to a fight before it, where the _Christians_

obtained a glorious victory. After we found our selves in a safer and

quieter place than we were before, and did hope quickly to get good

bread also, instead of our old black and worm-eaten biskets (which had

been loaden in _Spain_ a great while agone, wherewith we had made shift

a good while) some of us went the next morning into the next village

(which was pretty large) to buy some. But we did miss our aim very much;

for being that the inhabitants continually and hourly feared that the

_Turks_, whose _Armada_ was not far off, would make a descent, upon

them, therefore they conveyed all the goods they had into the castle,

that we could see lye very high beyond the great harbour, and had kept

no more but what was necessary for their daily use; so that no provision

at all was to be had or found: And they had so little bread, that we

went about in the village from house to house and could hardly get for

money as much bread as would serve us for our dinner. But as for wine

they let us have what we would, which was red, and very good, which the

Merchants knew very well, wherefore they bought a considerable quantity

thereof, to carry to _Venice_, and so did our ship’s master also. We also

found many small grapes growing there, on the vines, as many as I saw of

them, are rather less and lower than ours in our vineyards. During this

our tarrying, our pilot being sick, so that he was not able to direct

the ship any farther according to the compass, our master strove to get

another, and that the rather, because the _Adriatick_ sea, whereinto we

expected to come daily, is very dangerous, because of it’s narrowness,

plenty of islands, and hidden rocks, to navigate. So we got a _Greek_,

and after the weather began to be fairer, we put out to sea again. But

this did not continue long, for when we came a little out of the harbour,

we had other winds upon the sea, that were rather contrary to us, and

hindered us so very much in our navigation, that after many days we

arrived only before the fort of _Corfu_, otherwise call’d _Corsica_,

which we could hardly see in that misty and foggy weather, not without

great pains and labour. This ill weather, with the contrary wind, lasted

very long, and encreased more and more, the wind continuing high; so that

we had almost been cast over into _Apulia_ against our intention, chiefly

between _Cataxo_ and _Ragusa_, which _Ptolemy_ called _Epidaurus_, had

we not quickly made the island of _Meleda_. So we spent our time in this

navigation, not only in hard and contrary winds, with great pains and

labour, but were besides obliged to be above deck, because she was filled

up with goods all within to the weight of above twelve thousand centners,

where we endured great cold, and must remain there in all the rain and

storms.

After this we went into a small channel between this and another island,

where we lay at anchor all night; early in the morning we saw a galley

coming from the sea upon us. As soon as we saw her, before we could

well discern her, because of the too great distance, we made all ready

for our defence to resist her; but when she came nearer to us, and we

found by her flags that she was our friend, we were at rest again, and

discharged, when she went by us, three great guns to salute her according

to the usual custom of the sea. When she was past by, we weighed our

anchor also, and sailed to _Curtzola_, another island and town, towards

_Dalmatia_, call’d _Corcyra nigra_, which is very strong, and formerly

did belong to _Ragusa_, but now it is subjected to the _Venetians_. This

we left on the left hand, and went towards another, now call’d _Liesana_,

by _Ptolomy_ call’d _Pharia_, which lay about fifty leagues nearer to us.

This we did soon make, and arrived in the port on Christmass-eve, which

is close by the town, so that one can look very pleasantly into the wide

open place. In the morning early at the breaking of the day, those in the

town discharged some great guns for joy, which were in the next church

standing near to the harbour, according to their ancient custom on such

great holy-days. When these had begun, those also that were upon the

castle, which is very strong, and lieth close to the town walls up very

high, did discharge some; after them, those also that were upon the six

gallies, that arrived in the harbour after us, did the same; at length

it came also to our turn, that lay at anchor in the harbour, as well

the little as the great ones, whereof there was a great many; there it

began to bounce and crackle, for in our ship we had sixteen great ones,

and it made such a noise in the harbour, that one would have thought

all the buildings fell over one another. This shooting also occasioned

so great and thick a smoak, that we could hardly see one another. After

dinner we went ashore to buy good new bread, instead of our worm-eaten

biskets, whereof, God be thanked, we found enough, which did refresh us

very much. In this time the Priest that was dangerously ill of the bloody

flux, was so well recover’d of it, that he with his comrades went over

to _Ancona_, to go from thence to _Rome_. After we had rode at anchor

in this harbour for four days, by reason of bad weather, we weighed at

length, and came away to the ancient and famous town _Zara_, by _Ptolomy_

call’d _Jadera_, which is thought to be one hundred and fifty leagues.

Between _Liesana_ and _Zara_ there lie abundance of small islands, where

a great many pirates shelter themselves, that are call’d by a peculiar

name _Scacki_. These sleep in the day time, and are here and there on

high places, to take notice of the ships that go up and down, that they

may fall upon them in the night, and take them at a disadvantage, so that

it is very dangerous to ride there; and that so much the more, because

the sea is hereabouts very narrow, by reason of the many islands that

lie in it, wherefore the pilots must daily take care to get in good time

into a port, where they may ride securely all night; nay, sometimes even

the ships in the harbours are not secure from these _Scacki_ or pirates,

for so it happened that we were once in a port at anchor in our voyage,

which although it was very well secured and strong, yet we were not

secure there from the _Scacki_’s; as it had happened in this same harbour

but a year before, to a ship called _Cantarena_, (which the _Scacki_ did

get into by night,) which came off greatly by the loss, so that they had

great occasion to remember it; wherefore we divided ourselves into four

parts, and so kept watch by turns all night long. While we thus kept

watching, we saw them several times come in small boats, as if they were

fisher-men, yet as I am informed, there are often forty, fifty and sixty

men that lie hid in these small boats, and watch their opportunity to get

near to the great ships, to board them, and enter upon them. Wherefore

as soon as we saw that they would come to us, we cry’d out: _Fuoco,

fuoco_, that is to say, _Fire_, to shoot off the guns at them; when they

heard this, they presently answer’d: _Amici, amici_; that is to say, _we

are friends_, and so they went away again. Now when we believed that we

were escaped all danger, we got into a greater one by the oversight of

our pilot; for when he had order to go to _Zara_, he did not obey this

command, fearing that our ship-master would put him out there because

of his ill behaviour, and take another in his room, wherefore that he

might stay longer with us, he steered for the islands of _Vergetes_,

thinking that because he could get over with gallies (whom he had all

along generally served) he might also get over with a merchant-man (that

was heavy laden, and so drew more water) safe and without any danger. But

this did not succeed well, for when we sailed along between the islands,

we lost the depth of water by degrees, and at last struck with a great

cracking, so that we could expect nothing but shipwreck, which would of

necessity have followed, if our rudder had not remained whole in this

striking, and lifted up the poop of the ship, and so shoved the fore-part

sidewards into the depth; to which success the swelling sails did not

also contribute a little. So did God, our dear Lord, miraculously send

that the ship, chiefly by the help of the rudder, which was at least

three spans deeper in the water than the ship, got off and went on her

way. Having escaped again this great misery and danger, we landed in

another island, that was not far off; over-against which, on the side of

_Dalmatia_, lieth the village _Mortera_, between two famous towns, _viz._

_Zara_ and _Sebernis_, by _Ptolemy_ called _Ficum_, on a mountain of this

island, behind which lieth a good village, you may pleasantly see the

whole situation, together with the confines of the _Turks_, very plainly;

in this village we took up and lodged in it, until our sloop, that we had

sent out to _Zara_ for another and more expert pilot, came back again.

As soon as they arrived with the new pilot, we broke up again, embarked

and sailed for _Venice_, whither we had about two hundred and fifty

_Italian_ leagues. When we came out before the castle of St _Michael_,

which lieth in the sea over-against _Zara_ on a high mountain, a north

wind arose, with such a tempestuousness, that it had almost cast us

towards _Italy_, had not our pilot (who knew the shores, and landing of

ships, better than the former) done his best, and landed presently, which

could not be done but with great might and labour, for we were bound to

go against the wind, yet we accomplish’d it; which you may easily guess,

for of those six gallies that met us in _Liesena_, but two could make our

harbour (because they were not strong enough for the wind, altho’ they

used their utmost force in rowing) the rest were forced to go back again,

and shelter themselves behind the outward islands.

Into the same harbour was also just before us run in, to shun the ill

weather, a yatcht, that had about eleven men on board; they did pump out

the water that was run in, and dry their sails upon the land, by which we

did conjecture that they also had not been in small danger. We did send

some of our men on board of them to know who they were; and they answered

us, That they had letters from the Great Sultan, to their masters the

_Venetians_, concerning a peace that was agreed upon, which their envoy

at _Constantinople_ had sent by land to _Cattaro_, one of their towns,

where they were delivered up to them, to carry them to _Venice_ with all

possible speed. After this great storm was over, we went on again in our

voyage. By the way I saw nothing worth mentioning, but now and then a

village, where sometimes, if convenient, we landed, and staid there all

night. In one of them, I found a great deal of saffron, which was very

like unto that of _Vienna_, both in look and goodness. So at length we

came to the large and very-deep Gulph, _Carnaro_, by which within lieth

the town _Segna_, where the Windy-country endeth, and the _Hister-land_

beginneth. This Gulph is about an hundred miles long, and thirty broad,

so that in clear weather one may see very well over it, but it is very

dangerous to sail over it, and because of it’s great motion, it is easily

discern’d from the sea from without; over this we came, God be thanked,

very well, and landed at _Rovigna_, a small town situated on a high rock.

This belongeth, as well as others thereabout, as _Pola_, _Parentza_,

&c. to the _Venetians_, from whence to _Venice_ we have still about an

hundred miles. But being that it is very dangerous to go from thence with

large and loaden ships to _Venice_, therefore that republic doth keep

there always several experienced pilots (to prevent farther mischief)

that do nothing else but conduct the ships that arrive in _Histria_

safely thither. And these do not easily put off, unless they have very

good mild and clear weather; which was the occasion that our ship did

tarry there; so that we all, except the seamen which we left in the

ship behind, went into a barge on the fourteenth day of _January_ late,

and went all night long to _Venice_, where we all safely arrived the

fifteenth of the same month about noon.

At my arrival I met with some very good friends and acquaintance, with

whom I stay’d for several days, to refresh and rest myself after the

great hardships I had endur’d, and dangers I had passed. After they had

made me very welcome, and shewn unto me all kindness and civility, and I

had rested myself sufficiently, I resolved to travel with a _Venetian_

post into _Germany_ again; so we travell’d together from thence to

_Treviso_, _Trent_, _Botzan_, _Inspruck_, _Amberga_, &c. (whereabouts I

found my cousin _Hans Widholtz_, and _George Hindermayer Botzen_ riding

by him, who kept me all that night with them in their inn) so at length

I arrived on the twelft day of _February_ 1576, at _Augsburg_, my dear

native country, to the great rejoycing of my dear parents and relations,

which I found all in indifferent good health. I thank the Almighty,

merciful and good God, that is one in his Essence, and three in Person,

for all his mercies he hath bestow’d upon me, in all my great dangers and

necessities, both by sea and land, for his dear Son Jesus Christ’s sake.

Praise, glory, and thanks be unto him, for ever and ever. _Amen._

_End of Dr ~Rauwolff~’s Travels._

[Illustration]

A

COLLECTION

OF CURIOUS

TRAVELS and VOYAGES.

VOL. II.

CONTAINING

OBSERVATIONS

MADE

_By several Learned and Famous MEN_,

In their Journeys thro’ the LEVANT.

_VIZ._

The ISLE of CANDY, GREECE,

ÆGYPT, ASIA MINOR, _&c._

By Mons. _Belon_, _Prosper Alpinus_, Dr _Huntingdon_,

Mr _Vernon_, Sir _George Wheeler_, Dr _Smith_,

Mr _Greaves_, Father _Vansleb_, and others.

To which are added,

Two Itineraries to _Mecca_, and into _Æthiopia_.

[Illustration]

A

COLLECTION

OF CURIOUS

TRAVELS and VOYAGES.

VOL. II.

CHAP. I.

_Mr ~Belon~’s remarks in the island of ~Crete~ or ~Candy~._

The roots of mount _Ida_, call’d now by the natives _Psiloriti_, extend

to both the shores of the island; when I was at the top, I not only saw

under me all _Candy_, but some adjacent islands, as _Milo_, _Cerigo_,

&c. The snow lies all the year long on this hill, whilst the plains

underneath are extreamly scorch’d, and burnt up; it is so cold, that the

shepherds cannot inhabit it in the summer-time, but are forced every

night to descend, and leave their flocks of goats and sheep feeding. This

mountain on one side, abounds with pleasant springs, woods, many sorts

of trees, shrubs, and herbs, as Maples, _Ilices_ or Holm-oaks, _Arbutus_

and _Adrachne_, _Alaterni_, _Cisti Labdaniferi_, _Firrs_, _Cypress_,

_Chamælea_, _Thymelea_, _Oxycedrus_, _Nerion_ or _Oleander_ with a white

flower, _Olive-trees_, _Vines_, many _Legumes_ and _Pulse_.

Near round this famous mountain _Ida_ are found _Salvia Pomifera_,

which is carry’d to all the markets, _Caper-shrubs_, _Mandragora

Mas & fœmina_, two kinds of _Pæony_ with a white flower, _Tragium

seu Androsæmum fœtidum_, _Leontepetalum_, _Melilotus vera Odorata_,

_Trifolium Mœnianthe_ (perhaps our _Palustre_) _Heliocryson_, which

grows so thick as to cover and shelter the hares; _Stæchas Citrina_,

two kinds of _Tragacanth_, which yield no gum in this island; _Staphis

agria_, common up and down; _Coris_, a sort of _Hypericum_, with leaves

like Heath or Tamarisks, grows plentifully, the root hath an unpleasant

taste, and vomited me. The _Anagyris_ stinks so upon the roads, that it

causes the head-ach, and scarce any animal will touch it. _Tithymalus

Dendroides_, _Thapsia_, _Ferula_, _Libanotis_, and _Seseli_ abound.

_Agriomelea frutex_, a sort of _Sorbus_ or _Cotonaster_; a fourth species

of _Aristolochia_ different from those three describ’d by the ancients;

it scandent like a Smilax. The _Coccus Baphica_ or _Kermes_ is found

plentifully here upon an _Ilex_, the shepherds and boys gather it in

_June_, separate the red animalcules from the vesicle or excrescence

by sieves, and form them into balls very gently for sale, for if they

are squeezed or press’d, they dissolve, and the colour perishes. The

_Dictamnus_ grows only between the fissures of the rocks, but the _Pseudo

dictamus_ in other places. _Lotus Arbor_, _Zizyphus_ or _Jujube_,

_Scolymnus Chrisanthemos_, call’d commonly _Ascolimbros_, whose milky

root and young leaves make a common dish, _Tithymalus Myrsinites_

and _Paralius_ in the mountainous and maritime places, as also a

_Gnaphalium candicans littoream_, and a wild _Brassica_, _Chamæsyce_

and _Soldanella_, a _Dracunculus_ with an Ivy-leaf; the _Halimus_ makes

their common hedges up and down the island, the tops are edulous; _Agnus

Castus_, _Sedum fruticescens_, _Thymum legitimum_, which last serves

them for common fuel; the _Thymbra_ or _Satureia vulgaris_, all loaded

with _Epithymum_ or _Didder_; the _Tribulus Terrestris_ is very noxious

to their fields, and Pulse; _Scammonea_ or _Schammony_ in hilly places,

_Sesamum_ and _Xylon_, or Cotton, are sown in _April_; Pitch is boyl’d

out of the Pines on the mountains. There is none of our _Asparagus_,

but instead of it two prickly kinds, call’d _Corruda_ and _Politricha_.

Ten varieties of wild _Anemone_’s. There is a sort of Artichoak, call’d

by the shepherds _Agriocinara_, whose turbinated root is sold by many

Druggists for the _Costus Indicus_, the tops are eaten, the flower is

white, sometimes purple. There is a sort of _Carline_ thistle, call’d

_Chamœlion Albus_, whose odorate root sweats out a Gum which the women

in _Candy_ chew, as they in _Scio_ do Mastich, or they in _Lemnos_ the

Gum of a _Condrilla_. Two sorts of _Acanthus_, one soft, the other

prickly. The inhabitants have not left off the old manner of preserving

the tops of an _Anonis_, as also the tender shoots of an _Eryngium_.

The island affords three kinds of _Origanum_, a sort of Squill or

Sea-onion, _Orobus_, _Securidaca_, and many other legumes. It abounds

with _Terebinths_ and Mastich-trees, Laurels, Styrax, and arborescent

_Ricinus_, or _Palma-Christi_; _Aspalathus_, and a _Genisto spartium_

call’d _Echinopoda_.

The _Ibex_, or _Steinbock_, a swift nimble animal, whose horns are heavy

and long for the bulk of the creature, frequents the rocky mountains;

there is also the _Strepsiceros_, a sort of _Gazella_.

The bird call’d _Merops_ and _Apiastrum_, or _Beeater_, a sort of

_Woodpecker_, is common in the island, catches Bees, and feeds on them in

the air. The _Attagen_ and _Francolino_, as also a white large Partridge,

frequent the mountains; Eagles, Vultures, and Falcons build on the rocks.

The fish call’d _Scarus_, which I never observed in the _Euxine_,

_Propontis_, or any other part of the Mediterranean-sea, is common on the

coasts of _Candy_, and is generally taken at the same season that the

inhabitants rake and gather their sweet _Labdanum_, or _Ladanum_; the

only bait for this fish is made of the leaves of a _Phaseolus_, which

they swallow very greedily.

I observed only three kinds of Serpents in this island, the first is

call’d by the country people _Ophis_; the second _Ochendra_; the third

_Tephloti_; but none of these is venemous; I saw one bite and draw

blood, but without any harm. Hence the ancients might say, that _Crete_

nourish’d no poisonous animal.

The _Phalangium_ is common up and down; it weaves webbs like other

Spiders, to catch it’s prey, as Butterflies and Flies, and other insects.

It lays about sixty eggs, carries and hatches them under it’s belly; it

fights much with the _Ichneumon_ Wasp.

The stone call’d _Dactylus Idæus_, or _Belemnites_, erroneously taken and

sold for the _Lapis Lyncis_, is plentiful on mount _Ida_.

The _Vinum malvaticum_, or _Pramnium_, as also the _Moschatell_, are made

here, and transported up and down.

For a full catalogue of such vegetables as grow in the island of

_Candy_, together with their synonymous names and places, the reader

may be pleased to consult Mr _Ray_’s _Collection of Exotic Catalogues_,

publish’d this year at _London_, and annex’d to the end of this Second

Volume, amongst which the _Cretic_ plants are all drawn together out of

_Bellonius_, _Honorio Belli_, _Alpinus_, _Pona_, &c.

[Illustration]

CHAP. II.

_A Description of mount ~Athos~, commonly call’d ~Monte Santo~, by Mr

~Belon~._

This famous mountain so celebrated by the ancients, stands in a peninsula

or promontory of _Macedonia_, stretching out into the _Ægæan_-sea; it’s

shadow reaches to _Lemnos_ or _Stalamine_; it is inhabited only by

monks, call’d _Caloyers_, who never marry, tho’ other priests of the

_Greek_ church do. These _Caloyers_ abstain from all flesh, and even from

sanguineous fishes in Lent-time; they live very hardly and severely;

their ordinary dish is pickled Olives, not green like ours, but black

and ripe, dry’d without pickle. There are about six thousand of these

Monastics, that inhabit several places of this mountain, on which are

seated twenty four large old monastries, encompassed with high and strong

walls, for defence against pyrates and other robbers, tho’ they who spare

nobody are kind and indulgent to the _Caloyers_.

In these monastries the ceremonies of the _Greek_ church are most

diligently and strictly observed, and these _Caloyers_ or monks are

the most reverenced of any belonging to that communion; the _Turks_

themselves will often send them alms, being taken with the sanctity of

their lives; and the monks who inhabit mount _Sinai_, mount _Libanos_,

the desarts of St _Anthony_, _Jerusalem_, and other holy places, are

always the more valued and respected, if they have lived before on mount

_Athos_, which is in as great esteem and veneration amongst the _Greeks_

as _Rome_ among the _Latins_. This place is under the jurisdiction of

the Patriarch of _Constantinople_, who pays about twelve thousand ducats

_per Anum_ to the Grand Signior, upon the account of the _Europæan Greek_

church. The Patriarchs of _Alexandria_, _Damascus_, _Antioch_, &c. give

also their particular sums to the _Turk_, who gives liberty of religion

to all that pay tribute.

Of these six thousand religious, or _Caloyers_ of mount _Athos_, none

lead idle lives, as most of the monks in other places do, but every one

hath his daily employment; some labour with the ax, spade, and sickle,

dress their vineyards, cut trees, build fishing-vessels; others carry

sacks full of provision, bread, and onions; some spin and weave, their

distaff being made of the _Arundo Donax_, and their spindle of the herb

call’d _Attractilis_; some are Taylors, Bricklayers, and Carpenters; they

are generally cloath’d like hermits.

This mountain is about three days journey long, and may be seen about

thirty leagues off at sea; the monastries are at some distance; they

give such provisions as they have _gratis_ to all travellers whatsoever,

as pickled or dry’d olives, raw onions, salted beans, bisket, salted

fish, sometimes fresh, for they often go a fishing, their vessels or

boats being cut without great difficulty out of the thick trunks of

Plane-trees; their nets, for want of Cork, are supported with _Gourds_,

as they are in the _Propontis_ with the bark of _Pines_. The chief

monastry is call’d _Ageas Laura_, and fronts the isle of _Lemnos_, it

contains about three hundred _Caloyers_ or _Greek_ monks; those that look

towards the continent of _Macedonia_, have all their peculiar names,

and contain some two hundred, others one hundred and fifty _Caloyers_.

Formerly there were good _Greek_ manuscripts in these monastries,

but now none at all, unless of Theology; no Poets, no Historians, no

Philosophers, not one of the monks learned, of six thousand scarce above

two or three know how to write or read, so degenerated and depress’d is

the _Greek_ nation at present; they use wax candles and lamps in their

churches, as also statues, pictures and bells; they have no poultry,

pigeons, or any other birds; nor sheep nor cows, nor goats; because

they abstain from all flesh; they hunt no game, tho’ there is great

variety and plenty, only fish near the shore. I observed abundance of

those birds, call’d _Molliceps_, a sort of Chaffinch, as also of the

_Torquilla_, or _Wrynecks_. No people have the privilege of living on

this mountain but these _Caloyers_.

Mount _Athos_ abounds with many rare plants, but because many of them

are already mentioned to grow near mound _Ida_ in _Candia_; I shall

industriously omit to name such of them in this place. I observed here

the _Apion_ (a sort of knobbed _Spurge_) which the _Caloyers_ themselves

know to be purgative. _Hippoglossum_ or Horse-tongue, _Veratrum nigrum_,

or black Hellebore, common in the valleys; Beach, Hornbean, Service,

Oleaster, Myrtles, Oleander with a red flower, several Bindweeds running

up to the high tops of the Plane-trees, which here vie in height with the

Cedars of _Libanus_, or the Firs of _Olympus_.

There is a sort of _Cantharides_ on this hill call’d _Buprestis_, of

a yellowish colour, very fœtid, feeding on brambles, succory, nettle,

conyza, and other herbs; if any beast swallow this insect, they swell

and die. There is a sort of Cray-fish in the fresh rivulets, which the

_Caloyers_ eat raw, and I myself found the taste of them very sweet and

pleasant; they do not crawl up from the sea, but breed in the streams

above. There is a plant in the valleys call’d _Elegia_, perhaps a species

of _Arundo_, whose branches serve instead of writing-pens, for neither

the _Turks_ nor _Greeks_ know the use of quills.

The _Caloyers_ brought us several things to eat, as rocket, roots of

smallage, the bulbs of leeks, cucumbers, onions, garlic, which we eat

without either oyl or vinegar; black olives, course bisket and wine; they

also regaeld us with salted and dry’d fish, _Sepia_’s, _Polypi_, and

_Loligines_, Crabbs, and other crustaceous and testaceous animals. These

monks had rather die than eat flesh upon any occasion.

We ascended to the very top of mount _Athos_, where we could not long

endure the cold; we saw from thence many adjacent provinces and islands,

as _Cassandria_, _Scyton_, _Lemnos_, _Thasson_, _Samothracen_, _Imbron_,

&c. In our descent we observed Firrs, and Pitch-trees, which differ’d

a little from those of mount _Ida_, for in these the cones adher’d so

close to the branches, they would not separate; besides, these were very

smooth, whereas the others were scabrous.

There being no haven under this mountain, the _Caloyers_ are forced to

draw their fishing-vessels ashore, and place them behind iron gates,

lest the pyrates should set fire to them. They exchange their grapes,

olives, figgs, onions, garlic, beans, and legumes with the mariners, who

bring them some wheat; they have mills on the streams of the hill. They

press an oil out of their Bay-berries, which they send into _Wallachia_,

_Bulgaria_, and _Servia_, where it is sold. They take abundance of the

long Oyster or _Langouste_.

The multitude of springs and streams, the variety of herbage and

ever-greens, the woods and pleasant shoar, do all render mount _Athos_

one of the most charming places in the world.

[Illustration]

CHAP. III.

_An account of a journey by land from mount ~Athos~, to ~Constantinople~;

wherein the gold and silver mines of ~Macedonia~, together with many

antiquities and natural rarieties are described._

Leaving mount _Athos_, we travelled in two days to _Saloniki_, formerly

called _Thessalonica_, and in two days more we reached _Siderocapsa_,

the _Chrysites_ of the ancients, where now the _Turks_, and many other

nations work the rich ores, which afford yearly a very considerable

treasure, and make the place much frequented and resorted to. ’Tis

situated amongst the valleys, at the foot of high mountains, and yields

monthly to the Grand Signior, for his share only, above 18000 gold

ducats, and sometimes 30000 clear of all disbursements. There are about

five or six hundred furnaces dispers’d up and down these mountains, which

abound with great varieties of _Pyrites_, _Marchasites_, and other ores,

which they work in a different manner from the _Germans_ and _Spaniards_:

Their furnaces and work-houses are all placed on the sides of rivulets,

for all their bellows play with wheels turn’d by streams of water. The

white foot of the chimneys is called _Spodus_ and _Pompholix_, as it

differs in colour, of which above ten pounds may be gathered every week.

They separate the lead from the gold and silver by particular fusions,

then the silver from the gold by _Aqua fortis_: Out of the gold, they

coin their ducats, which are very flexible, and esteem’d the purest gold

in the world, always clean and resplendent.

From these metallic mountains we saw mount _Athos_, and great part of

_Macedonia_, which appear’d hilly. I observed here two serpents never

seen before by me; the _Greeks_ called them _Sapidi_ or _Sapiti_, which

comes near to _Seps_, or _Sips_. The inhabitants of _Syderocapsa_ gather

abundance of the _Rhus_ or _Sumach_, which they use in preparing their

skins, and tanning their leather, which the _Ægyptians_ do with the pods

of their _Acacia_, the _Natolians_ with the cups of the acorns of a

dwarf Oak called _Esculus_, the _Illyrians_ with a black Myrtle (perhaps

the _Rhus Myrtifolia_), the _French_ with Oak bark, the _Lesbians_ and

_Phrygians_ with the bark of the _Picea_.

The workmen use several machines in working and drawing up the ores,

according as the veins lie: These works employ above 6000 men.

In a lake near _Syderocapsa_, I took notice of several fishes, as one

called _Laros_ by the natives (because the Gulls feed much upon it) by

the _Latins Gania_, by the _French_, _Mouatte_, by those of _Diepe_

and _Newport_, _Marue_. Another called _Claria_, by those of _Lyons_,

_Lotte_; by the _Parisans_, _Barbotte_. Also the _Liparis_, the Perch,

young Mullets, _&c._

In the adjacent country, there are fallow Deer, Buffalo’s, wild Boar,

Goats, red Deer, and our roe Deer, Porcupines, Urchins, Wolfs, Foxes,

Hares; the _Chamois_, or _Rupicapra_; the _Tragelaphus_ different from

the _Hippelaphus_.

Leaving _Syderocapsa_, we spent two days in getting to _Cavalla_,

anciently called _Boucephala_, whereas we might have gone by sea in half

a day: In this journey we saw the river _Strymon_, and on it Swans, and

other birds like Pelicans: At the mouth of this river, are seen the

remains of a place called by the natives _Chrysopolis_, tho’ _Pliny_ puts

it not far from _Chalcedon_. We saw _Ceres_ the _Cranon_ of the antients;

afterwards _Tricala_, and so by the side of the mountain _Despota_, thro’

a great plain to _Philippi_, near which are many villages and several

mines. We observed hereabouts Misseltoe on the Oak, as also in many other

places of _Macedonia_, where they make birdlime. The ground is very much

over-run with the _Paliurus_ and _Rhamnus_.

The ruins of _Philippi_, are about two days journey from _Trica_ or

_Tricala_, and _Philippi_ scarce three more from _Philippolis_. These

were great roads in the time of the _Roman_ empire, now heaps of rubbish,

and sepulchres of marble with inscriptions. The isle of _Tasso_ is but

six hours distant, and from thence this great quantity of white marble

might have easily been fetch’d. The magnificence of _Philippi_ may be

guess’d at from the number of these noble monuments and inscriptions,

from the fair amphitheatre still entire with it’s marble seats; ’Tis

not oval, as those at _Otricoli_ and _Rome_, but spherical, as those at

_Verona_ and _Nismes_: There are also _Doric_ and _Ionic_ pillars, with

many statues belonging to the temple of _Divus Claudius_. At _Cavalla_,

or _Boucephala_, there are still great cisterns of hardened Cement (as at

_Baiæ_) and _Aquæducts_.

Departing from _Cavalla_, we pass’d by mount _Hæmus_, over the river

_Nesus_, and came to _Bouron_ on the salt lake of _Bisto_, near a moist

plain, full of _Cytisus_, _Halimus_, _&c._ as about _Philippi_. Here

are taken great quantity of Dace, or Dare, which they pickle as we do

Herrings, as also smoak and dry them. The fishing on this lake is very

considerable, for from hence they supply many distant places. About six

hours from _Bouron_, we came to _Commercina_, where they sell great

variety of provisions; from thence we went to _Cypsella_, where they make

Alum by gently calcining the stone, and letting it dissolve afterwards

in the air by the dews and rains, and then boiling and crystallizing

the impregnated water. In this journey we saw many old _Roman_ highways

pav’d with great stones. We passed the _Marisca_, of old _Hebrus_, in

a ferry, and came to _Vire_; here they wash some gold out of the sand,

but are often forced to use Quicksilver in the separation. The water of

_Hebrus_ is very cold in the middle of summer, and the banks are set

with Tamarisks; King’s-fishers build they nests in holes on the sides,

they make them of the bones and scales of little fishes. The natives

hereabout often leave their habitations to work in harvest time: Their

sickles differ from ours, and their corn is not thresh’d but trodden with

cattle. In this journey we found great variety and plenty of _Jaspars_

and _Chalcedony_.

The _Thracians_ and _Macedonians_ gather all the galls or excrescences on

the Turpentine-trees, which they sell at _Prusa_, for the dying of silks.

This country abounds much with Tortoises, for the _Greeks_ never eat nor

destroy them, unless they catch them in their gardens or plantations of

Cotton and _Sesamum_.

We left the road of _Gallipoli_ on the right, and came to _Rodesto_, the

old _Perinthus_, from thence we left _Heraclea_ on the left, and past

_Selibria_, a days journey distant from _Constantinople_. The honey of

_Heraclea_ is said to be pernicious, perhaps because the country abounds

with the _Chamæleon niger_ (a sort of _Carlina_) to whose root adheres a

very venomous excrescence called _Ixia_, which may affect the Bees that

feed on that plant.

I found hereabouts a milky plant (perhaps an _Apocynum_) with the leaves

and flower of a _Nerion_, or the purple _Lysimachia_.

_Thrace_ is an open country without trees, like _Picardy_; the great

plains are divided here and there with ridges and little hills: About

three miles before we came to _Constantinople_, we pass’d two long wooden

bridges that run over the salt marshes, upon which are many boats and

mills, with eight wings or arms: On these lakes there is a great fishery,

as also on the _Propontis_, for the Oriental People (as other nations of

old) are more delighted with the fish diet than with that of quadrupeds

or birds. This may be one reason why the books of the ancients treat more

of fish than of fowl, or any other animals.

[Illustration]

CHAP. IV.

_The ways of fishing on the ~Propontis~, the ~Bosphorus~, and

~Hellespont~; as also of the fishes taken. By M. ~Belon~._

These seas abound extremely with fish that pass between the _Euxine_

and _Mediterranean_, into which abundance of great fresh rivers empty

themselves. The streights and shoars are full of little wood cottages

(wherein the Fishermen watch and observe the several shoals) and great

variety of nets, both loose and fastened to poles, of several figures,

for the taking both of great and small frys: There is also the hook and

bait-fishing up and down with long lines; the train and hand-nets, _&c._

Besides all these ways, they practise another manner of fishing by

lighted torches in dark calm nights, whereby they find the great fishes

asleep, and strike them very silently with sharp tridents and hooked

engines: This they find the most convenient for taking the greater sorts

of fish, which often break their nets and lines.

The common fishes of these _Streights_ are, the Tunny, and the Pelamis,

Mackrel, Scads, Giltheads, Mullets, Gurnards, Sheath-fish, Sword-fish,

the Dolphin, different from our Porpess, the Wolf-fish, Lampreys, the

Muræna, Sphyrena, Melanurus, Salpa, Sargus, Mena, Atherina, Exocætus

which serve for baits to catch Congers, Celerinus, Sardina, Polypus,

Loligo, Erythrinus, _&c._

The Garus, so common in the shops of _Constantinople_, is prepared here

only out of the sanies, or, ichor of the salted intestines of the Mackrel

and Scads. The red Cavear is not made of the eggs or roe of the Sturgeon,

but out of the _Cyprinus_. (Q. _Whether the author means the Bream or

Carp._)

CHAP. V.

_Of some Beasts and mechanic trades at ~Constantinople~._

Near the _Hippodromus_ at _Constantinople_, I observed some rare animals,

which the _Turkish_ Emperors are much delighted with, as the _Onager_,

the _Hystrix_, the _Lupus Cervarius_, the _Lynx_, the _Ponticus Mus_, or

_Ermine_, many rare Weasils and odd Cats.

The _Turks_ not using the Printing Trade, they levigate and polish their

writing paper in box frames, by rubbing it with the _Chalcedony_ and

Jaspar-stones, put at the end of sticks. They damask their cymeters

with a blewish colour, by macerating _Sal Armoniac_ and Verdigrease in

vinegar, and steeping the blades in this mixture, often pouring fresh

upon them, this acts upon the steel, and renders it of that colour upon

polishing. They granulate leather for scabbards. In the Cutlers shops

one sees great variety of Horns, Teeth, _&c._ as of Bufalo’s, Gazels,

Morse-teeth, and other Tusks. They colour their linnen with great

variety, and with many figures, which they cut in wood and there paint,

afterwards stamp and press it upon the linnen, or silk, as in printing

upon paper, they first polish their linnen or cottons with pastes of

fine flower. The inhabitants on these _Streights_, gather abundance of a

broad leaved _Alga_, which they mix with a fat earth, and so cover their

houses with it: The current running so strong, casts out great variety of

marine productions, as _Alcyonium_, or _Arkeilli_, _Antipathos_ (a sort

of Coralline.)

_Mr ~Francis Vernon~’s Letter, written to Mr ~Oldenburg~, ~Jan. 10.

1675/6~, giving a short account of some of his Observations in his

travels from ~Venice~ through ~Istria~, ~Dalmatia~, ~Greece~, and the

~Archipelago~, to ~Smyrna~, where this letter was written._

_SIR_,

I must beg your excuse for not having written to you in so long a space:

The little rest I have had, and the great unsettledness of my condition

is the reason. Neither have I now any great curiosities to impart to you;

only some small circumstances of my journey I will run over.

From _Venice_ I set out with those gallies which carried their Embassador

that went for the _Porte_. We touch’d at most of the considerable towns

of _Istria_ and _Dalmatia_ by the way. In _Istria_ we saw _Pola_, an

ancient Repuplic. There remains yet an amphitheatre entire; it is of

two orders of _Tuscan_ pillars, placed one over another, and the lower

pillars stand on pedestals, which is not ordinary; for, commonly they

have nothing but their bases to support them. There is, besides a temple

dedicated to _Rome_ and _Augustus_, a triumphal arch, built by a lady

of the family of the _Sergii_, in honour of some of her kindred, which

commanded in these countries; besides several inscriptions and ancient

monuments, which are in divers parts of the town.

In _Dalmatia_ I saw _Zahara_, which is now the metropolis of the country.

It was anciently called _Jadera_. It is now very well fortified, being

encompassed on three sides with the sea, and that part which is toward

the land extremely advantaged by all the contrivances of art, having a

castle and a rampart of very lofty bastions to guard it. I found here

several ancient inscriptions, by me copied, which will not find room

in the compass of a letter. We pass’d in sight of _Zebenico_, and saw

three forts, which belong to the town, St _Nicolo_, St _Gioanni_, and

_la fortezza Vecchia_; but we went not ashore. That which is most worth

seeing in _Dalmatia_, is _Spalatro_, where is _Dioclesian_’s palace,

a vast and stupendious fabric, in which he made his residence when he

retreated from the empire; it is as big as the whole town, for the whole

town indeed is patch’d up out of it’s ruins, and is said by some to take

it’s name from it. The building is massive; there is within it an entire

temple of _Jupiter_, eight square, with noble porphyry pillars, and

cornish, worth any body’s admiration. There is a court before it, adorned

with _Ægyptian_ pillars of that stone called _Pyropoicilos_, and a temple

under it, now dedicated to St _Lucia_; and up and down the town several

fragments of antiquity, with inscriptions and other things worth taking

notice of.

Four miles from _Spalatro_ is _Salona_, which shews the ruins of a great

town. About as much farther from _Salona_, stands _Clissa_, upon a rocky

hill, an eminent fortress of the _Venetians_, which is here the frontier

against the _Turk_, from whence they repulsed him in their late wars

with great honour. I was at _Lesina_, where is nothing very remarkable;

but _Blondi_, that hath written our _English History_, was of it. _Trau_

is ancient, and hath good marks of it’s being so. Here I spoke with Dr

_Stasileo_, who put out that fragment of _Petronius Arbiter_, and I saw

his manuscript.

I was in the Harbour of _Ragusi_, but not in the town, because we made

no stay there. From hence we pass’d the gulph of _Budua_, and saw the

mountains of _Antivari_, the plain of _Durazzo_ and _Apollonia_, and

came to _Sassino_ a small island, from whence we could see the town of

_Valona_, and the mountains _Acroceraunii_, which are very near, and are

now called mountains of _Chimæra_.

I staid a fortnight in _Corfu_, and had time to view all that was

considerable in the island, particularly the gardens of _Alcinous_,

that is, the place where they are supposed to have been, now called

_Chrysida_, a most delicious situation: The ancient port, now called

Νεκροθάλατσα and several foundations of ancient fabrics. In _Zante_ I was

likewise a fortnight, where I saw but little of Antiquity: What is modern

is very flourishing, and the island rich and plentiful.

I went from _Zante_ to _Patras_, a town in _Achaja_, of good note among

the ancients. Near it is a great mountain, mentioned by _Homer_, by the

name of _Petra Olenia_. In the town are several massive ruins, which few

there know how to give any account of. There are the remains of a large

church, dedicated to St _Andrea_, who, they say, was martyr’d there. This

is the first town I saw on the continent of _Greece_. The plain about

it is very fruitful, full of springs and rivulets; finely wooded with

Olive-trees, Cypresses, Orange and Lemon-trees. The Citrons here are

counted among the best of the _Turkish_ empire, and are sent for presents

to _Constantinople_. So are all their fruits in very good esteem.

In _Athens_ I have spent two months. Next to _Rome_ I judge it most

worthy to be seen for antiquities of any I have yet been at. The temple

of _Minerva_ is as entire as the _Rotunda_. I was three times in it, and

took all the dimentions with what exactness I could; but it is difficult,

because the castle of _Athens_, in which it stands, is a garrison, and

the _Turks_ are jealous, and brutishly barbarous, if they take notice

that any measures it. The length of the _cella_ or body of the temple

without side,

is 168 } Feet _English_.

The breadth 71 }

The _portico_ of the _Doric_ order, which runs round it, hath eight

pillars in front, seventeen on the sides; the length of the _portico_

is 230 feet _English_. I have taken all the dimensions within, with

those of the προναὸς and _porticos_; but they are too long for a letter.

The _fuste_ or shaft of the pillars is 19½ feet in circumference: The

_intercolumnium_ 1¼ of the diameter of the pillars. These measures you

may rely on as exact to half a foot.

The temple of _Theseus_ is likewise entire, but it is much less, though

built after the same model. The length of it’s _cella_ is but 73 feet,

the breadth 26. The whole length of the _portico_, which goes round it

123 feet. ’Tis a _Doric_ building, as is that of _Minerva_. Both of them

are of white marble.

About the cornish on the outside of the temple of _Minerva_ is a _basso

relievo_ of men on horseback, others in chariots, and a whole procession

of people going to a sacrifice, of very curious sculpture. On the front

is the history of the birth of _Minerva_.

In the temple of _Theseus_, on the front within side the _portico_, at

the west end, is the battel of the _Centauri_, and at the east end seems

to be a continuation of that history: But there are several figures of

women, which seem to be _Pirithous_’s bride, and those other ladies which

were at the wedding. On the outside the _portico_, in the spaces between

the _Triglyphi_, are several of the prowesses of _Theseus_, most in

wrestling with several persons, in which he excelled: All his postures

and looks are expressed with great art. Others are monsters, which he is

made encountering with, as the bull of _Marathon_, the bear of _Calydon_,

_&c._

There is a temple of _Hercules_, a round fabric, only six feet diameter,

but neat Architecture. The pillars are of the _Corinthian_ order, which

support an _urchitrave_ and _frise_, wherein are done in _relievo_ the

labours of _Hercules_. The top is but one stone, wrought like a shield,

with a flower on the outside, which riseth like a plume of feathers.

There is yet standing the tower of _Andronicus Cirrhestes_, which is an

octogon, with the figures of eight winds, which are large, and of good

workmanship; and the names of the winds remain legible in fair _Greek_

characters, where a house, which is built against it on one side, does

not hinder, as ἁπηλίωτης, ευρος, βορεας, σκιρων, ζεφυρος· Each wind

placed against it’s quarter in the heavens: And the roof is made of

little planks of marble, broad at bottom, and which meet all in a point

at top, and make an obtuse parymid of 32 or 36 sides.

There is a delicate temple of the _Conic_ order in the castle, whether of

_Pandrosus_, or whom, I cannot tell, but the work was most fine, and all

the ornaments most accurately engraven:

The length of this temple was 67 }

The breadth 38 } feet.

These pillars, which remain of a portico of the Emperor _Adrian_, are

very stately and noble: They are of the _Corinthian_ order, and above 52

feet in height, and 19½ in circumference: They are cannellate, and there

are now standing seventeen of them, which part of their cornish on the

top. The building to which they belonged, I measured the area of, as near

as I could conjecture, and found it near a thousand feet in length, and

about six hundred and eighty in breadth.

Without the town, the bridge over the _Elissus_ hath three arches of

solid stone work; the middlemost is near 20 feet broad. There is the

_stadium_ yet to be seen, whose length I measured, and found it 630 feet,

near to what the precise measure of a _stadium_ ought to be, _viz._ 625.

Towards the southern wall of the castle, there are the remains of the

theatre of _Bacchus_, with the portico of _Eumenes_, which is near it;

the semi-diameter, which is the right sine of the demi-circle which makes

the theatre, is about 150 feet, the whole body of the scene 256. Monsieur

_de la Guilliotiere_, in that book he hath written of _Athens_ hath made

a cut of a theatre, which he calls that of _Bacchus_, which is a meer

fancy and invention of his own, nothing like the natural one, which by

the plan he has drawn of the town, I judge he did not know. I give you

this one hint, that you may not be deceived by that book, which is wide

from truth, as will appear to any body who sees the reality, though to

one who hath not seen it, it seems plausibly written. I have dwelt long

on _Athens_, but yet have said nothing. This town alone deserves a whole

book to discourse of it well, which now I have neither time nor room to

do; but I have memorials by me of all I saw, which one day, if it please

God, I may shew you.

_Thebes_ is a large town, but I found few antiquities in it, excepting

some inscriptions and fragments of the old wall, and one gate, which,

they say, was left by _Alexander_, when he demolish’d the rest. It is

about fifty miles distant from _Athens_, as I judge.

_Corinth_ is two days journey distant; the castle, or Ἀκροκόρινθος,

is standing, which is very large. The main of the town is demolished,

and the houses, which now are scatter’d, and a great distance from one

another. So is _Argos_, which to go round would be about four or five

miles, as the houses now stand; but if they stood together, they would

scarce exceed a good village. _Napolo della Rumilia_ is a large town, and

full of inhabitants, and the Bashaw of the _Morea_ resides there: It is

but very few leagues distant from _Argos_.

_Sparta_ is quite forsaken, and _Mestra_ is the town which is inhabited,

four miles distant from it: But one sees great ruins thereabout;

almost all the walls, several towers and foundations of temples with

pillars and chapiters demolished: A theatre pretty entire. It might

have been anciently nigh five miles in compass, and about a quarter of

a mile distant from the river _Eurotus_. The plain of _Sparta_ and of

_Laconia_ is very fruitful; and long, and well watered. It will be about

eighty miles in length, as I judge. The mountains on the west side of

it very high, the highest I have yet seen in _Greece_; the _Maniotes_

inhabit them. But the plain of _Calamatta_, which anciently was that of

_Messene_, seems rather richer. _Corone_ is very abundant in Olives.

_Navarrino_, which is esteemed the ancient _Pylos_, hath a very strong

castle, fortified by the _Turks_, and is the best port in all the

_Morea_. _Alpheus_ is much the best river, and the deepest, and with

great reason extolled by all the ancient Poets, and chosen for the seat

of the _Olympic_ games, for it is very pleasant. The plains of _Elis_ are

very fine and large, fit for to breathe horses in, and for hunting, but

not so fruitful as that of _Argos_ and _Messene_, which are all riches.

The best woods I saw in _Peloponnesus_, are those of _Achaia_, abounding

with Pines and wild Pear, the _Ilex_ and _Esculus_-trees, and, where

there runs water with Plane-trees.

_Arcadia_ is a champain fine country, and full of cattle, but is all

encompass’d with hills, which are very rough and unhewn. _Lepanto_ is

very pleasantly seated on the Gulph, which runs up as far as _Corinth_;

and without the town, is one of the finest fountains I saw in _Greece_,

very rich in veins of water, and shaded with huge Plane-trees, not

inferior in any thing to the spring of _Castalia_ on mount _Parnassus_,

which runs through _Delphos_, except in this, that one was chosen by the

Muses, and the other not; and poetical fancies have given immortality to

the one, and never mentioned the other.

_Delphos_ itself is very strangely situated on a rugged hill, to which

you have an ascent of about two or three leagues, and yet that is not a

quarter of the way to come up to the pique of _Parnassus_, on the side of

which hill it stands: It seems very barren to the eye, but the fruits are

very good, where there are any. The wines are excellent, and the plants

and simples, which are found there, very fragrant, and of great efficacy.

About _Lebadia_, and all through _Bæotia_, the plains are very fertile,

and make amends for the barrenness of the hills which encompass them: But

in winter they are apt to be overflown for that reason, and to be turn’d

into lakes, which renders the _Bæotian_ air very thick, and so were their

skulls too, if the ancients may be believed concerning them; though

_Pindar_, who was one that sublimated poetry to it’s highest exaltation,

and is much fancied and imitated in our age, as he was admired in his

own, was born there: And _Amphion_, who was said to be so divine in his

music, that he ravished the very stones, had skill enough to entice them

to make up the walls of _Thebes_: So that not every thing that is born

in a dull air is dull. These vales I found much planted with Cotton,

_Sesamum_ and _Cummin_, of which they make great profit, and a great

trade at _Thebes_ and _Lebadia_.

I went from _Thebes_ into the island of _Eubæa_, or _Negropont_, and saw

the _Euripus_, which ebbs and flows much after the nature of our tides,

only the Moon, and sometimes Winds, make it irregular. The channel,

which runs between the town and a castle which stands in an island over

against it, is about fifty feet broad; and there are three mills on it,

which shew all the changes and varieties that happen in the current. Near

the _Euripus_, and opposite to the town, they shew a port, which they

say was _Aulis_, and it is not improbable, for it must be thereabouts,

Between _Negropont_ and _Athens_, is a high hill, called Ἀγιομακοῦρι,

formerly very dangerous, but now guarded by _Albaneses_. It is part of

mount _Parnasse_, and near it, on the left hand, lies mount _Pentelicus_,

from whence the _Athenians_ anciently fetch’d their stone, and now there

is a convent of _Caloyers_ there, one of the richest of all _Greece_.

In going from _Athens_ by sea, I embarked in a port, which lies just by

_Munichia_. That which they call _Porto Pyræo_, lies behind it a mile

distant, which is a large port able to contain 500 vessels. There are

the ruins of the town yet remaining, and of the walls, which joined it

to the city of _Athens_. I sailed by _Porto Phalero_ the ancient haven

of _Athens_, which is rather a road than a port. I saw an island called

Φλέβες, where the _Athenians_ had anciently mines. I went ashore on the

promontory of _Sunium_, to view the remains of the temple of _Minerva_,

which stood on it. Hence I sailed among the isles of the _Archipelago_,

_Macronesia_, _Thermea_, _Serphanto_, _Siphanto_, till I came to _Melo_.

From _Melo_ I sailed through the _Cyclades_ to come hither. I pass’d by

_Andros_, _Tenos_, _Mycone_, _Delos_: _Nuxia_ and _Paros_ I saw at a

distance. We sailed near the northern cape of _Scio_, and the southern of

_Myteline_ or _Lesbos_, and so came into the gulph of _Smyrna_. Within

this gulph stands _Burlæ_, near some small islands, which is judged to

be the ancient, _Clazomenæ_: _Foja_, which is same with the ancient

_Phocæa_. Near this, the river _Hermus_ discharges itself into this gulph.

In this my journey, I had some misadventures. My companion, Sir _Giles

Eastcourt_, died by the way. At sea I was plunder’d by the _Serphiotes_,

where I lost all my letters, and yours among the rest, which you sent to

my Lord Embassador at _Constantinople_, and Consul _Rycaut_, whom I find

here a very civil and knowing gentleman, and am much obliged to him for

his favours.

I have been as curious as I could in taking the latitudes of some

remarkable places: As I find them, I shall give them you.

_Gr._ _M._

_Athens_ 38 5

_Corinth_ 38 14

_Sparta_ 37 10

_Corone_ 37 2

_Patras_ 38 40

_Delphos_ 38 50

_Thebes_ 38 22

_Negropont_ or _Chalcis_ 38 31

I desire you to present my humble services to the gentlemen of the _Royal

Society_.

_I am_, &c.

[Illustration]

_Some plants observed by Sir ~George Wheeler~, in his voyage to ~Greece~

and ~Asia minor~._

In the _Scoglio_, or island of St _Andre_, on the shore of _Istria_,

_Scorpioides Limonii foliis, floribus luteis_. _Limonium reticulatum._

_Sideritis spinosa._ _Draba cærulea Cretica._ _Convolvulus rectus

argenteis foliis._ _Polium Creticum, &c._

On the rocks near _Pota_ in _Istria_: _Cassia Poëtarum._ _Trifolium

Saxatile hirsutissimum._ _Genista montana arborescens._ _Tordilium sive

Seseli Creticum._ _Tragoriganum Creticum, vel potius Satureia hyberna

nostras._ _Polium Rorismarini foliis._ _Salvia fruticosa._ Abundance of

_Samphire_, and a curious bulbose plant, crested with little flowers

striped with white and cinnamon colour.

Near _Mortaro_, thirty miles from _Zara_: _Planta lactescens Altheæ

foliis_; it was not blown, (it might either be a _Tithymal_, an

_Apocinum_, or _Campanula major lactescens Lobel_.) _Eryngium luteum

monspeliense, &c._

On the great rock near _Clissa_: _Aster verbasci foliis._ _Jacea incana

seu argentea Alpin. in Exot._ _Lotus odoratus._ _Horminum creticum._

_Satureia citrii odore._ _Aster montanus folio odorato, forsan Aster

montanus luteus glabro Salicis folio ~Bauhin.~_ _Libanotis Ferulæ facie._

_Linum flore luteo._ _Hieracium flore incarnato._ _Thlaspi Saxatile folio

Poëtarum._ _Caucalis platyphylla ~Column.~_ _Caucalis magno flore &

fructu._ _Planta Equiseti frutescentis facie_, on the steeple and hard

walls, (perhaps a species of _Tithymal_) it was without leaves, but full

of joints, with abundance of yellow scaly knobs by pairs, between which

issue forth three or four little _Tetrapetalose_ flowers. Of this I saw

an _Arborescent_ one near _Troy_.

On the mountain near _Lesina_, in the island _Pharos_: _Aconitum

Lycoctinum flore Delphinii, vel Napelli Species._ _Aloë_ in flower.

_Asphodelus minor Junci folio, fistulosâ non bulbosâ radice._ _Malva

Romana rubra._ _Juneperus major seu oxycedrus._ _Genista Spartium

Septimo ~Bauhini~ simile_; the root is hot of a spicy taste.

_Pilosella major pilosissima, &c._

In the Island of _Corfu_: _Thymus capitatus Dioscoridis._ _Lysimachia

Hysopi folio._ _Scabiosa caule altissimo, flore nigrescente, fortè

peregrina ~Bauhin.~_ _Cyperus grumineus miliaceus._ _Scammonea._ _Acarna

flore patulo rubente._ _Centaurium major. album._ _Centaurium rubens

Spicatum._ _Centaurium ramosum rubens._ _Centaurium ramosum album._

_Vitex flore cæruleo & albo._ _Consolida regalis fœtida._ _Glicyrrhiza._

_Pulegii Species erecto caule, latifolia, incana, & hirsuta._ With many

others mention’d before.

In the island of _Zant_: The Curran Grape. White and yellow Melons.

A large thin-skinn’d Lemon without either seed or stone, as also the

Curran Grapes are. _Genista seu spartium foliis argenteis._ _Convolvulus

Sagittariæ foliis._ _Prunella spinosa._ _Coris Matthioli._ _Gossipium seu

Xylon._ _Glaux Dioscoridis._ _Cistus plantaginis folio._ _Cicer Creticum,

&c._

In the isle of _Cerigo_: _Dictamnus falsus._ _Chamædrys Alpina minima

hirsuta._ _Thymi capitati secunda species foliis minoribus densius

Stipatis._ _Salvia pomifera seu gallifera._ _Stæchas citrina._ That

species of Thyme is in Dr _Plukenet_’s _Phytographia_, _Tab. 116. F. 4._

In the isle of _Tenos_ or _Tine_: _Limonium caule sinuato._ _Frutex

Spinosus Jaceæ albæ capitulis._ _Stachys parva foliis argenteis._

_Genista spinosa floribus rubris._

Near the ruins of _Troy_: _Quercus glande majore._ _Gossipium._

_Sesamum._ _Anguria._ _Tragacantha._ _Tartonreira Massiliensium seu

Thymelæa incana Sericea, longifolia & latifolia._ _Pastinaca echinifera

~Colum.~_ _Jacea lutea capite spinoso._ _Papaver corniculatum flore

tricolore._ _Pancratium_ in flower. _Verbascum marinum laciniatis foliis._

Near _Constantinople_: _Abrotanum humile flore Chamæmeli._ _Serpilli

species foliis Satureiæ._ _Androsamum flore & thecâ omnium maximis._

_Guaiacum Patavinum._

On mount _Olympus_, near _Bursa_ or _Prusa_: _Abies conis sursum

spectantibus, foliis subtus argenteis._ _Cistus laurinis foliis._

_Aster montanus, Linariæ folio, flore flavo._ _Coris seu Hypericum

foliis crispis._ _Hypericum foliis hirsutis, margine crinifero._

_Aster Conyzoides ~Gesn.~_ _Astragalus Matthiol. flore cæruleo._ _Pyrola

frutescens Arbuti folio._ _Gentianella verna._ _Senecio incana pinguis._

_Cerinthe minor._ _Cistus argenteis foliis._ _Cymbalaria Italica._

_Calamintha montana præstantior._ _Elichryson sive Gnaphalium comâ

aureâ._ _Gramen junceum Echinatum._ _Millefolium nobile odoratum._

_Hypericum seu Ascyron magno flore._ _Panax Heracleum._ _Gnaphalium

repens._ _Herba Tuitia Auriculæ Affinis._ _Tragacantha._ _Helleborus

niger._ _Ephedra seu Polygonum Scandens bacciferum_; climbing

up to the tops of the vast Plane-trees, according to _Bellonius_.

In our Journey to _Mandragorai_ and _Courougouli_: _Scordium lanuginosum

sive Creticum._ _Alsine Lotoides seu Anthylloides, sive spergulæ facie

~C. B.~_ _Gingidum Hispanicum._ _Leucoium Alyssoides Clypeatum maj.

~C. B.~_ _Origanum Spicatum Montis Sipyli foliis glabris._

Near _Thyatira_: _Spartium alterum Monospermum, Pseudospartium Hispanicum

Aphyllon._ A _Thapsus minor longifolia_; or rather a _Sideritis_ or

_Stachis foliis Salviæ argenteis pilosis mollibus_; which is the

_Panacea_ of the country people. _Scabiosa argentea min._

About _Smyrna_: Two kinds of _Jujubes_ or _Ziziphus_. Turpentine-trees,

and Mastich-trees. _Smyrnion Creticum._ _Origanum perenne lignosum

odoratissimum._ Several sorts of Olive-trees. _Tamarisk_ and _Ricinus_,

or _Palma Christi_.

Near the gulph of _Lepanto_: _Tithymalus Spinosus._ The Fust or yellow

wood used to die with, call’d by the _Greeks_ _Chrisoxulo_. _Cedrus

Lyciæ._ _Arisarum angustifolium._ _Lamium moschatum foliorum margine

argentato._

About mount _Parnassus_, _Athens_, and other places of _Attica_ or

_Achaja_: _Stachys viscoso flore luteo, odore Narcissi juncifolii._

_Petromarula Cretica_ or _Rapunculus Pyramidalis altera_. _Sabina._

_Crocus Albus & Luteus._ _Poterion Plinii_, smaller than _Tragacanth_.

_Polium Gnapholoides._ _Ilex Chermifera._ _Acacia Secunda Matthioli._

_Anemones_ of all colours. Many _Asters_ and _Arisarums_. _Aristolochia

Clematitis._ Two _Asphodils_. _Brassica frutescens._ _Borago variegata

Cretica._ _Cneorum Matth. & Clusii, sive Thymelææ affinis facie externâ._

Several _Cisti_. _Jacea Moschata_, with other knapweeds. _Leontopetalum_

all over the plain of _Athens_. _Oleander._ _Scilla._ _Scorzonera

Cretica Asphodeli sistulosi facie_, _Galocorta Græcorum_, it is the

womens _Cosmetic_, and Milk-plant. _Siliqua Edulis_ or _Carob_. Two

_Thymelæa_’s, _argentea_ & _tomentosa_. _Tithymalus Spinosus._ _Equisetum

frutescens Aphyllon_ (perhaps a sort of _Tithymal_) _Lychnis frutescens_:

With many more, which we have either mention’d in other places, or else

were doubtful of, as a kind of small silver-leaved _Scabious_, and a

_Dandelion_ or _Hieracium_, with Pilewort or small Colts-foot-leaves,

with a root like so many Scorpions following one another. A sort of

_Medica lunatâ siliqua_, or _Loto affinis siliquis hirsutis circinatis_.

_Astragalus argenteus_ or _Syriacus_.

Near _Corinth_ and the _Isthmus_, _Pinus Maritima_ with small cones.

_Cedrus Lycia vel Sabina baccifera._ _Ceratia_ or _Siliqua Arbor_.

_Lentiscus._ _Olea Sylv._ _Scabiosa argentea petræa._ _Aristolochiæ

Clematitis species._ _Linaria latifolia valentina Clusii_, the flowers

beautiful with three colours. _Androsemum umbelliferum._ _Scorzonera

bulbosa._ _Arbutus folio non serrato_, _Comarea Dioscoridis Adrachne

Theophrasti_.

For these the reader may consult Mr _Ray_’s _Collection of Exotic

Catalogues_, especially the _Oriental_ one, where the synonymous names

are added.

[Illustration]

_Historical Observations relating to ~Constantinople~. By the reverend

and learned ~Tho. Smith~, D. D. Fellow of ~Magd. Coll. Oxon.~ and of the

~Royal Society~._

_Constantinople_, formerly _Byzantium_, was by _Constantine_ the Great

called so after his own Name[6], who being mightily pleased with the

beautiful and advantageous situation of the place between two seas,

and defended by narrow streights on both sides, removed the seat of

the Empire hither, and laid the foundation of it’s future splendor and

greatness. It was also by a special Edict or Law of the same Emperor[7],

which he caused to be engraven on a marble pillar, placed near his own

statue on horseback, in one of the piazza’s of his new-built city called

_Strategium_, where the Souldiers used to muster as in the _Campas

Martius_, called _Second_ or _New Rome_, in emulation of old _Rome_,

which he designed and endeavoured this should equal in all things.

Accordingly he endowed it with the same Privileges and Immunities, and

establish’d the same number of Magistrates, and Orders of People, and

divided the whole extent of it into fourteen Precincts or Regions[8],

according to the division of _Rome_. And the _Greek_ writers were as

elegant and extravagant in their commendations of it; but the usual

title in their ordinary discourses and writings, when they had occasion

to mention it without any flourish, was ἡ βασιλεύουσα, or ἡ βασιλὶς,

that is, the imperial city, to the same sense with that of _Sidonius

Apollinaris_[9].

_Salve scepturum columen, Regina orientis,_

_Orbis Roma tui._

The country about it was afterwards called _Romania_ in a limitted and

restrained sense, (for that _Romania_ was anciently the same with _Orbis

Romanus_, seems clear from _Epiphanius_[10]) and the people Ῥωμαῖοι. But

I suppose this was not done till about the middle times of the empire,

when it began to decline. The _Greeks_ still retain this name: For if

you ask any of the _Greeks_ born upon the continent of _Thrace_ what

countryman he is, he answers forthwith, Ῥωμαῖος, _Romios_, for so they

pronounce it. The _Turks_ in like manner called a _Greek_ Christian _Urum

Gaour_, or the _Roman Infidel_, as they will call sometimes the Emperor

of _Germany_, _Urumler Padisha_, or Emperor of the _Romans_. Hence it was

that the latter _Græcian_ Emperors stiled themselves βασιλεῖς Ῥωμαίων,

Kings of the _Romans_, that is, such as were born in _Romania_, and

the other countries, which made up the eastern division of the empire.

Though perchance by this flourishing title they pretended a right to the

government of the west; upon which vain presumption they assumed also

the title of Κοσμοκράτορες, or _Emperors of the World_, as if they had

been true successors of _Augustus_, and the western Emperors, usurpers;

whom they called by way of contempt and indignation, Ῥῆγες, _Reges_, as

_Luitprandus_[11] informs us in the account of his embassy to _Nicephorus

Phocas_, and afforded the people of _Italy_ no other title than that

of _Longobards_ or _Lombards_[12]. The present _Greeks_ call all the

western Christians Λατῖνοι, or Φράγγοι, _Latins_ or _Franks_, the

_Turks_ only making use of the latter, when they speak civilly of us, and

calling _Christendom_ _Phrenkistan_, in the present _Greek_ Φραγγία. The

_Turks_ now as proudly call _Constantinople_, _Alempena_, or the refuge

of the world; where indeed seems to be a medly of all or most nations

of three parts of it, and of all religions, which are allowed to be

publickly profest and exercised every where throughout the empire, except

the _Persian_. For they look upon it as a corruption of, and deviation

from the rules and doctrine of _Mahomet_, their great false Prophet,

and therefore absolutely forbid it, as repugnant to, and destructive of

the doctrine of life and salvation, as they speak. And accordingly they

condemn with all imaginable fury the professors of it, who pretend to

follow _Ali_, as sectaries and apostates, and entertain worse opinions of

them, than of _Christians_, or _Jews_, or _Infidels_. The _Persians_ are

not behindhand with them in their hatred and disrespect, deriding them as

gross and stupid, and looking upon them as little less than barbarous:

Interest and zeal for their several tenents heightening their differences

so much, that in time of war they destroy one anothers mosques. I

remember, that there was a great discourse in _Constantinople_ among

the _Turks_, concerning an impudent hot-headed _Persian_, who publickly

in the new mosque, built by the mother of the present Emperor, asserted

that _Ali_ was equal to _Mahomet_. But it seems he very luckily made his

escape out of their hands, at which the priests and the more zealous

_Turks_ were very much scandalized.

The _Greeks_ have twenty six churches within the walls of the city,

besides six in _Galata_, of which I have given an account elsewhere. They

have also two churches at _Scutari_, one at _Kadikui_ or _Chalcedon_. So

at _Staurosis_, _Chingilkui_, and several other villages upon the _Asian_

shore of the _Bosphorus_, as at _Beshictash_, _Ortakui_, _Chorouch

chesme_, which church is dedicated to St _Michael_ the Archangel,

_Jenikui_ or _Neochorion_, _Therapia_, _Bujukdere_, and other villages on

the _European_ side. They have also a church at _Haskui_, where is their

burying-place, and another near the _Bagno_, dedicated to St _Parasceve_.

And at _Tatoula_ about a mile from _Pera_, upon a hill, which from the

name of the church is thence called by the _Greeks_ and _Franks_, St

_Demetrius_’s _hill_. Next to the holy Virgin, St _Demetrius_ and St

_George_ have most churches dedicated to them.

The _Armenians_ have not, if I remember aright, above seven churches,

they being few in number in companion of the _Greeks_.

The _Jews_ may have in the city and places adjacent between twenty and

thirty synagogues, this being the greatest shelter of that accursed and

contemptible people in the Grand Signior’s dominions, next to _Caire_

and _Saloniki_; and I believe there may be about twenty or thirty

thousand families of them. They are of great use and service to the

_Turks_, upon _account_ of their brokage and merchandise, and industry in

several mechanical trades. All these I look upon as natives, or slaves

rather, each paying money for his head every year. The _Jews_ indeed

very wisely collect this tax among themselves, and according to an

agreement made with the _Tefterdar_ or Treasurer, pay a certain sum in

gross for their whole nation residing there; by which piece of cunning

they are great gainers, and spare the poor among them less able to pay,

by a contribution of the rich to make up the sum. The _English_ and

_Dutch_ Embassadors have their chapels in their palaces common to their

respective nations.

The churches and chapels of the western _Christians_ of the _Roman_

communion in _Galata_, are,

St _Peter_’s, belonging to the _Dominicans_, where is the famous piece

of _Madonna di Constantinopoli_, as the _Italians_ call it, or of the

Blessed Virgin holding the holy child _Jesus_ in her arms; which they

pretend to be drawn by the hand of St _Luke_, celebrated by some of

the later ecclesiastical writers to have been a famous Painter. Out of

respect to this idle tradition, the credulous and superstitious _Latins_

and _Greeks_ of the _Roman_ communion shew great veneration to it, which

otherwise hath little in it of proportion, art, or beauty to derive any

reputation upon the designer, or upon his work.

St _Francis_, belonging to the _Conventuali_, Friers of the order of

St _Francis_: The ground of this by the wise conduct and intercession

of _Cavaliere Molino_, the _Venetian Bailo_, after the surrendry of

_Candia_, upon the peace made by the Republic with the Grand Signior,

was procured to be restored, and a handsome church rebuilt, with the

large contributions of money sent out of _Christendom_.

St _Benedict_, belonging to the _Jesuits_, where is a rich altar

curiously adorn’d with several figures in _Mosaic_. This convent was

purchased for them by their great benefactor, _Henry_ the fourth of

_France_.

St _Mary_, belonging to the _Observantines_ or _Zoccolanti_, a branch of

the order of St _Francis_, so called from their going in _Zoccoli_ or

wooden clogs.

The _Capucines_ have a little chapel dedicated to St _George_, hard by

the _French_ Embassador’s palace.

St _Ann_, a chapel frequented by the _Petrots_.

St _Paul_ and St _Anthony_ were both taken away some years since from

the Christians, and turned into mosques. The former of which is now

known by the name of _Arab Giamesi_, or the mosque of the _Arabians_.

Our interpreters mentioned also to me the church of St _John_, which the

_Turks_ have seized upon for their use, St _George_, which the Jews are

possessed of, and St _Sebastian_, which was used to be visited chiefly on

holy-days.

The north wind blows for the most part at _Constantinople_, which must

be ascribed to it’s nearness to the _Euxine_ sea, which bears that point

from it. So that for want of a southwardly wind, ships have been forced

to lie a month or two sometimes near the mouth of the _Hellespont_; this

was taken notice of long since by _Eunapias_, in the life of _Ædesius_

who ascribes the seldom blowing of the south wind to the situation of the

mountains, whereas it is checked and overpowered by the exuberence of the

vapours continually sent forth from the _Black_ and _Great Sea_, as the

_Greeks_ call it in comparison of the _Mediterranean_. _Vide ad finem

Codini de Origin. Constantinopol. Edit. ~Paris.~ pag. 80._

The _Hellespont_ is about forty miles in length, and at the castles of

_Sestos_ and _Abydos_ the streight may be about three quarters of an

_English_ mile over, or less.

The length of the _Propontis_ is about a hundred and fifty miles, both

shores may be seen in the middle of it. In it are

_Cyzicus_ an island near the _Asian_ shore, to which it is joined by two

bridges. It still retains it’s ancient name Κυξικὸ, and is the seat of a

Bishop, being inhabited by a considerable number of _Greeks_.

_Proconnesus_, not far from the former; now, as for some centuries past,

called _Marmora_, from the excellent quarries of marble there found, the

_marmor Cyzenicum_ also being famous in the time of _Pliny_.

_Besbycus_, now called by the _Greeks_ καλόλιμνο, or the good

haven, not far from the entrance into the bay of _Montanea_ to the

north-and-by-east; the _Turks_ call it _Imramle_.

There are several islands over against the bay of _Nicomedia_; formerly

called _Sinus Astacenus_, according to _Strabo_, about six or seven

leagues from _Constantinople_[13].

_Prote_, so called because they approach first to it, coming from

_Constantinople_, to the south of this _Prencipe_ and _Pytis_, which

I take to be the same with _Pyrgos_, that lies inmost toward the bay:

_Chalcitis_, in modern _Greek_, _Chalce_ or _Chalcis_. _Oxia_ and _Platy_

to the north-west. I have expressed the _Turkish_ names of the lesser and

uninhabited islands elsewhere, which perchance were fantastically imposed

by some _Franks_.

The _Seraglio_ is at the extream point of the north-east angle of

_Constantinople_, where formerly stood old _Byzantium_, within which,

towards the haven is a stately _Kiosk_, or Summer-house, from whence the

Grand Signior usually takes barge, when he passes into _Asia_, or diverts

himself upon the _Bosphorus_, at which time the _Bostangibashi_, who hath

the principal care of the Emperor’s palace, and hath the command of the

_Bosphorus_, sits at the helm and steers.

The seven towers are at the south-east extremity.

The only suburbs are to the north-west, along the haven-side; for above

the hill, where the three walls begin, lies an open champaign country,

except that here and there at considerable distances farm-houses are

Scattered.

The haven runs in from the west, and so opens east.

At the east end of _Galata_ is _Tophana_, where they cast their great

guns.

_Pera_ and _Galata_ have about six gates to the seaward. The whole tract

of ground was anciently, before the times of the Emperor _Valentinian_,

who enclosed and fortified _Galata_ with walls and towers, stiled

Περαῖα πέραν τῆς πόλεως, on the other side of the city to the north;

which is the reason of it’s name, seated on higher hills, and whose

ascent is more steep and difficult.

Our modern _Geographers_, such as _Mercator_ and _Ortelius_, who

herein follow _Ptolemy_, place _Constantinople_ in the latitude of 43

degrees and 5 minutes: the _Arabian_ and _Persian_ Astronomers, as

_Abulfeda_, _Nassir Eddin_, _Vlugh Beigh_, and so the πρόχειροι κανόνες

of _Chrysococcas_, translated out of the _Persian_ tables, place it more

northerly in 45°. But by later and better observation it is found, that

they have erred in assigning the latitude of this city, as of several

other places. To salve these differences, there is no just ground of

pretence to say, that the _Poles_ are moveable, and have changed their

situation since their time; whereas it may be better imputed to their

want of due care, or to their taking things upon trust, from the reports

of _Travellers_ and _Seamen_, not having been upon the places themselves;

which certainly is to be said for _Ptolemy_, whose Observations, as

to places more remote from _Alexandria_, are far from being accurate

and true. The learned Mr _John Greaves_, as I find in a manuscript

discourse, very worthy of being printed which he presented to the most

reverend and renowned archbishop _Usher_, took the height of the Pole

at _Constantinople_, with a brass sextant of above 4 feet _radius_,

and found it to be but 41°:6′; but by the observation we made in our

court-yard at _Pera_ with a good quadrant, we found but 40°:58′ of north

latitude.

There is no place between the _Propontis_ and the walls of the city,

except just at the _Seraglio_ point, which may be two hundred paces in

length, where they have raised on a platform a battery for great guns;

but from the point to the end of the haven west, the space to the gates

is unequal in some places about twenty paces broad, in others three or

four times as many more.

The distance between _Constantinople_ and _Chalcedon_, upon the opposite

_Bithynian_ shore, may be about three or four miles.

In the walls are engraven the names of several Emperors, who reigned

toward the declension of the _Græcian_ empire, as _Theophilus_,

_Michael_, _Basilius Constantinus_, _Porphyrogenitus_, by whose care, and

at whose expence the several breaches caused in them, by the sea, or by

earth-quakes, were repaired.

_Kumkapi_, or the sand-gate, lies toward the _Propontis_; this the

_Greeks_ call in their vulgar language Κονδοσκάλι, _Contoscalium_, or the

little scale or landing-place. Here formerly was an Arsenal for gallies

and other small vessels it being a convenient passage over sea. Over this

gate was anciently engraven a curious inscription, still preserved in

that excellent collection publish’d by _Gruterus_[14].

_Jedicula Kapi_, or the Gate of the seven towers, so called from it’s

nearness to that _Acropolis_, is that, I guess, which the _Greeks_

formerly called Χρυσῆ or the golden gate, and by some late _Latin_

writers _Chrysea_, in _Luitprandus_, _Carea_, by a mistake either of the

Transcriber or Printer, for _Aurea_, for so certainly it must be mended.

Over this gate was this Inscription;

_Hæc loca Theodosius decorat post fata Tyranni,_

_Aurea secla gerit, qui portam construit auro._

cited by _Sirmond_, in his notes upon _Sidonius_[15]. This gate is in the

twelfth region, and was also called ὡραῖα from it’s beautiful and curious

structure.

The gun-gate, formerly called _Roman-gate_, not because it leads towards

the continent of _Romania_ or _Thrace_, but from St _Romanus_[16] where

the last Christian Emperor was killed at the assault which the _Turks_

made to force their way into the city by it.

Near _Adrianople_-gate is a fair large mosque called _Alibassa_, upon a

hill accounted the highest in the city.

The distance between tower and tower in the upper wall to the landward,

may be about ninety of my paces; the space between that and the second

wall about eighteen paces over.

The place, where the Lyons, Leopards, and such like wild creatures are

kept, (where I saw also several Jackals) was formerly, as the _Greeks_

told me, a Christian church dedicated to Παναγία, or the Blessed Virgin,

where this verse is still legible:

Κατὰ Σκυθῶν ἔπνευσας θερμὸν ἐν μάχαις.

There is no tide or running back of the water on any side of the

_Bosphorus_, into the _Black_ sea, as[17] some have imagined, whose

mistake might possibly arise hence, that the wind being at north, and

blowing hard, the current sets more violently at such times against the

several headlands, jetting out into the channel, which admits of several

turnings, and so the waters are forced back to some little distance: or

else because when the south-wind freshens and grows boisterous, it makes

a high rolling sea in the _Propontis_ and _Bosphorus_, and being contrary

to the current, gives a check to it, so that it becomes less sensible,

and is easily stemmed. Where it is narrowed, the distance seems to the

eye to be scarce a mile over from one shore to another; where broadest,

not much above a mile and a half, unless where it runs into the deep

bays, which by reason of their shallowness only harbour boats.

The channel certainly is natural, and not cut by art, as some have idly

fancied, not considering how the _Euxine_ sea should discharge itself

otherwise of those great quantities of waters, poured into it by the

_Ister_ and _Tanais_, now called _Don_, and the other rivers, whereby it

becomes less salt, even very sensibly to the taste, than several parts of

the _Mediterranean_.

The fish, by a strange kind of instinct, pass in vast shoals twice a

year, autumn and spring, through the _Bosphorus_, that is, out of one sea

into another; of which the _Greeks_, who live several months of the year

upon them, take great numbers, and supply the markets at easie rates;

the cormorants and other ravenous water-fowl, which the _Turks_ will not

suffer to be destroy’d, or otherwise molested, preying also upon them.

The weather in some months is very inconstant, great heats and colds

happenning the same day upon the change of the wind.

The winters at _Constantinople_ are sometimes extraordinary severe. I

have heard it related by several old _Greeks_, as a thing most certain,

that the _Bosphorus_ was frozen over in the time of _Achmed_, and that a

Hare was coursed over it. It happened thus; that upon a thaw, huge cakes

of ice came floating down the _Danube_ into the _Black Sea_, and were

driven by the current into the _Bosphorus_, where, upon the return of

the frost, they were fixed so hard, that it became passable. In the year

1669, there was ice in the haven, to the great amazement of the _Turks_;

and some were so frighted at this unusual accident, that they look’d

upon it as a dismal prodigy, and concluded that the world would be at an

end that year. The _Aguglia_, or Obelisk, in the _Hypodrome_, is betwixt

fifty and sixty foot high.

The historical pillars in _basso relievo_, raised in honour of the

Emperors _Arcadius_ and _Honorius_, may be in height about an hundred and

forty seven feet.