The last day of _December_ we travell’d on, and came through well till’d

fields about night into the town _Harpel_, which is pretty large, but

very pitifully built, and miserably surrounded with walls, so that

it might easily be taken without any great strength or loss; there

we rested again the next day being the Sabbath, and on the same day

fell New-Years-Day. In the mean time I understood that the _Turkish_

Sangiack did a few days ago condemn and put to execution eight great

malefactors, which made it their business to rob and to commit murder

up and down on the high-way, for there are a great many of these rogues

in this province, chiefly on the borders of _Armenia_, which are very

mountainous, and maketh travelling very dangerous. The relations and

friends of these murderers and robbers did take this very ill, that

the Sangiack should execute them, and were resolved to be revenged of

him one way or other. In order thereunto they combined and agreed all

together, and had every thing ready, and only staid for the word to fall

upon him, which would have been done accordingly, if he had not had good

intelligence of this their intention, wherefore he went away _incognito_

for _Constantinople_, to complain to the _Turkish_ Emperor of this their

unjust proceedings, and what they must expect for this, they will know

in a short time. This Sangiack, when he found necessity of making his

escape, and found that he wanted money, which is very seldom, he took up

from an _Armenian_ Merchant, that was very rich, and was arrived there

to buy several merchandizes, chiefly Gauls, whereof grow many in these

parts, 300 ducats, which put the Merchant into great danger; for when

these rebellious people came to understand it, they took it very ill of

him, and threaten’d him very much, so that he was forced to stay some

days longer for more company, that so he might go the safer.

After we had joined him, we went from thence on the fifth of _January_

in a very handsome number, for the Merchant alone had about fifty

camels and asses, which were only loaden with Gauls, with him, to carry

to _Carahemit_, where he lived, and to send from thence to _Aleppo_,

where they are bought by our Merchants, to be sent into our country. So

we travell’d all day long and also half the night, without eating or

drinking, very fast, and began to rest about midnight. After we had for

the remaining part of the night hardly refreshed our beasts and ourselves

with eating and drinking a little, we broke up again before day-light,

to go on in our way. When we were gone a good way through fruitful and

pleasant vallies, we came betimes to another river by _Ptolomy_ call’d

_Caprus_, which although it is not very broad, yet it is very deep, so

that we had much to do to get through, which I found not without a great

detriment to my plants, which I carry’d on horse-back before me.

Soon after noon a great way off before us, appear’d a great market-town,

_Carcuschey_, where we arrived by night, and fix’d our camp without and

pretty near to it. This is quite inhabited by _Armenians_, which we could

presently find by the alteration of the language and their habit. They

received us very willingly, and let us want for nothing. After we had

staid with them till night, and refresh’d ourselves and our beasts, we

broke up again immediately and travell’d all night, which was so dark,

that we heard several caravans that met us, but could not see them,

much less know how strong they were, or from whence they came. At break

of day we came to another much larger river, by the inhabitants call’d

_Kling_, if I do not mistake, and by _Ptolomy_, _Licus_, which hindred

us very much in our day’s journey; for the river being very broad, at

least a long mile, it was very hard to hit exactly the right ford, and

not without great danger, which the _Curters_ knew very well, so that

we were also in great fear of them. But after some were found in our

company that had often forded that river formerly, we ventured it, went

in, and got over, thanks be to God, very safe, only one ass which went

over below us, where the stream went stronger, was drown’d, so that we

arriv’d very early on the seventh of _January_, to the _Tygris_ again,

and went into the famous city _Mossel_, that lieth on this side of the

river, over a bridge made of boats. This is situated in the country of

the _Curters_, and so we were forced still to keep our interpreter.

It belongeth to the _Turkish_ Emperor, as do all the rest hereabouts.

There are some very good buildings and streets in it, and it is pretty

large; but very ill provided with walls and ditches, as I did observe

from the top of our camp which extended to it. Besides this, I also saw

just without the town a little hill, that was almost quite dug through,

and inhabited by poor people, where I saw them several times creep in

and out as pismires in ant-hills. In this place and thereabouts stood

formerly the potent town of _Nineveh_, built by _Ashur_, which was the

metropolis of _Assyria_, under the Monarch of the first monarchy, to the

time of _Sennacherib_ and his sons, and was about three days journey in

length. So we read that the Prophet _Jonas_, when at the command of God,

he preach’d repentance to them, did go into it one day’s journey, which

the people did hearken willingly unto, and did amend their lives, but

they did not long remain penitent, but turn’d to their former iniquity

again, wherefore their destruction and ruin was prognosticated to them

by the Prophets _Nahum_ and _Zephania_, and also by the pious _Tobias_,

that did live there again, which did also not long after follow. Yet was

it re-built again afterwards, and did suffer very much upon changes of

governments, until at length _Tamerlane_ came and took it by storm, burnt

it, and reduced it to that degree, that afterwards in the same place grew

Beans and _Colocasia_, _&c._ So that at this time there is nothing of

any antiquities to be seen as in old _Babylon_, save only the fort that

lieth upon the hill, and some few villages, which as the inhabitants say,

did also belong to it in former days. This town lieth on the confines of

_Armenia_, in a large plain, where they sow the greatest part of their

corn, on the other side of the river; for on this side in _Mesopotamia_

it is so sandy and dry, that you would think you were in the middle

of the desarts of _Arabia_. Yet there is a very large deposition of

merchandizes, because of the river; wherefore several goods and fruits

are brought thither from the adjacent countries, both by land and water,

to ship them for _Bagdat_. Among the rest I saw abundance of small

and great Turpentine-nuts, by the inhabitants call’d, as above-said,

_Bont-quiber_ and _Sougier_; and also another sort of Manna as big as a

double fist, which is very common here, and is brought from _Armenia_, as

they told me. It is of a brown colour, a great deal bigger and firmer,

and not so sweet as that of _Calabria_, yet very good and pleasant to

eat. Within it are several red grains, so small that one taketh no notice

of them when one eats it. It looseneth the body very well, but not so

much as ours, wherefore the inhabitants eat great pieces thereof in the

morning, as the country-men on the mountains of _Algaw_ eat cheese. But

whether the _Arabians_ make mention thereof, if it be not the _Manna

Alhagiezi_, whereof _Avicenna_ in his second book, the second treatise,

and the 758th chapter maketh mention, I know not neither what it is to

be reputed. The town _Mossel_, is as abovesaid, for the greatest part

inhabited by _Nestorians_, which pretend to be Christians, but in reality

they are worse than any other nations whatsoever, for they do almost

nothing else, but rob on the high-ways, and fall upon travellers and kill

them: therefore being that the roads chiefly to _Zibin_ (to which we had

five days journey, and for the most part through sandy wildernesses) are

very dangerous, we staid some days longer, expecting more company that we

might go the surer.

[Illustration]

CHAP. X.

_Which way we went through ~Mesopotamia~ by the way of ~Zibin~ and

~Orpha~, to ~Bir~, not without a great deal of danger; and afterwards how

we passed the great river ~Euphrates~, and came at last into ~Syria~ by

~Nisib~, to the famous town of ~Aleppo~._

After our journey had been deferr’d for four days, we broke up on the

eleventh of _January_ several hundred strong, and went on for the whole

day without eating, with all speed until the sun-set at night, when we

encamp’d on an ascent near a small village, to keep our beasts and goods

safe, and to refresh ourselves and them. We watch’d all night long, and

went continually three and three together, round about our camp by turns.

The next day we proceeded on again in our journey with all speed, rather

for a good fountain or spring’s sake, as they do in these countries in

the vast desarts, than to reach a good inn, where we arrived late at

night, and encamp’d near it, to stay all night to rest. A little after

when we were at supper, some of the _Curters_ came to us into our camp,

spoke to us kindly, and ask’d us whether we did want any thing that they

could help us to, but we soon perceived them to be spies, that were sent

by their companions, to see what strength we were of. But when they

perceived that we were not pleased with them, they did not stay but went

away, and we composed ourselves to rest, but kept a good guard as we had

done the night before. About midnight when we were in our first sleep,

our watch-men perceived a great number of the _Curters_ to approach,

wherefore they awak’d us with a great shouting to alarm us the sooner,

and to bring us into good order, and to frighten our enemies, and to

drive them away. But they did not only not mind us, but made all haste

they could up to us, and that so near that we could see them, although

it was dark, before our camp, by their heads. But when they found us in

a good order and condition to oppose them, and did hear that our gunners

and archers, which were ready to let fly at them, call’d with a loud

voice to them, _tahal, tahal Harami_, that is, come hither, come hither

you thieves, _&c._ they halted for a little while and were so afraid of

us, that they turn’d their backs and run away. Afterwards when we fear’d

nor expected their assault any more, they came quickly again a second

time, in a far greater number than before. They led before them one camel

and several horses, which in the dark we could only discern by their

heads looking against the sky, in their hands, without doubt, that we

might look upon them as travellers, or else that we might not be able to

discern their number. But notwithstanding all this their first assault

was still in fresh memory, wherefore we did not tarry, but drew soon up

in our former order again, wherein I was the left hand man in the first

rank again, with my scymeter drawn, and had before armed my breast with

several sheets of paper, that I had brought with me to dry my plants in,

expecting their assault every moment. But when they made a halt again,

fearing their skin as much as we did ours, and did neither shout nor move

up towards us, one of ours provok’d them, and did shoot at the camel, and

did hit it so that it gave a sign thereof, but the rest forbore to fire.

So they staid a little while, and then went off a second time.

So we kept awake all the rest of the night, and kept a good watch, and

went on our journey again early the next morning about break of the day;

and came again to wide and dry heaths, where we saw neither men nor

beasts, and so we went on till noon, where we encamp’d in a large place,

which was surrounded with walls and ditches pretty well, just like unto

a fortress, whereof there are several in these dangerous places to be

seen. When we staid there, two _Curters_ came again to us into our camp,

and spoke to us, pretending that they came to demand the toll that was

due there, it being their place: But our Merchants soon perceived, that

they were not in a right cause, wherefore they would allow them nothing,

which put these two into such a passion, that they drew their swords,

and would have at us; but our friends did not stay idle neither, but

took their swords away, and laid on with dry blows at them, and so flung

them out of our camp. After this hubbub was over we dined, and that the

rather that we might not be too much weaken’d by our hard travelling,

and so be the less able to resist these robbers, for want of strength

if they should fall upon us, which we were not wont to do before night,

chiefly in great desarts, for there we used to get up presently after

midnight, and travel all day long with all speed without eating, which I

had often experimented before; wherefore I used to provide myself always

with bread, and when I had a mind to eat it, I did either stay behind or

go before; for no body eats openly by the way in the sight of others,

except he has a mind to run a hazard, because that most of them are very

hungry, and so eager at it, that they will assault one another for it,

and take it away from their very mouths. After we had refresh’d ourselves

and fed our beasts, which useth to be done also but once a day, we broke

up with our caravan, and went on again. We quickly saw some mountains

before us, where, when we approach’d them towards the evening, there

appear’d sometimes, on a high one, that before the rest lieth nearer to

the plain, some of them, so that we might very well presume, that there

was more of them behind in _Ambuscado_, which also proved very true:

For no sooner were we pass’d it, but before we went up the hill, they

came out from behind the mountain, in great troops on horseback, which

immediately drew up into order in the fields, in two squadrons, three

and three in a rank, to the number of about three hundred, almost as

many as we were. They exercised their horses, which were very lank, very

swiftly, turn’d sometimes on one, and then on the other hand, and come at

length to us within a bow’s shot. They had most of them darts, which they

play’d withal in their full speed, sometimes holding it downwards as if

they would run through a deer, which was a pleasant but very dangerous

sight to us. When they shew’d themselves so as if they would fall upon us

instantly, we drew our caravan close together, in order to resist them.

Wherefore we stood still, and tied our beasts together, and bound the

fore-feet of each of them, that they could not stir; behind them stood

our mockery, with their bows, and all those that were not well provided

with arms and horses, either to shoot at the enemy, or else in case of

necessity, if they should come too near us, to sally out, and cut off

their horses with our scymeters. Near unto us our horses were drawn up

into a troop, ready for their assault, to venture their success. After

a whole hours delay we sent at length two of our company to them, and

they sent also two of theirs to meet them to parley together; but which

way they made up an agreement I know not, but they prevailed so much

with them, that soon after they left us, and rode away, and we went on

in our journey. After this we kept our caravan, (that is so much to say

as a great many people, with loaden camels, asses, and horses) in far

better order than we had done before, and came that same day a good way,

to a small village, where we encamped and stay’d all night. We found no

wood thereabouts, wherefore we made shift with bread instead of other

victuals, and were very glad, we had it. In the mean time the inhabitants

came to us, to gather the dung of our beasts as they do in several other

places, chiefly in the desarts of _Arabia_, to burn it instead of wood,

which they do after the following manner.

They make in their tents or houses a hole about a foot and half deep,

wherein they put their earthen pipkins or pots, with the meat in them

closed up, so that they are in the half above the middle, three fourth

parts thereof they lay about with stones, and the fourth part is left

open, through which they fling in their dry’d dung, and also sometimes

small twigs and straws, when they can have them, which burn immediately

and give so great a heat, that the pot groweth so hot as if it stood in

the middle of a lighted coal-heap, so that they boil their meat with a

little fire, quicker than we do ours with a great one on our hearths; so

that these poor people must make very hard shift, and do sometimes as the

_Israelites_ did in the siege of _Jerusalem_, where they also in their

greatest necessity did boil their meat with dung of men and beasts, as

you may read in the 4th chapter of _Ezekiel_. This night, and several

others before, we passed more with watching than with sleeping, so that

sometimes we contemplated the constellations of the skies, which are very

much observed by these nations, but chiefly by the _Arabians_, which

lodge always in the open air, and have no shelter, so that by the stars

they know the hour of the night, and when it is time for them to break

up. They care not for beds, but rather have cloaks or tapestry wherein

they wrap themselves up and keep themselves warm, so that no frost nor

rain, nor dew can hurt them.

The next morning we broke up (that we might not expose ourselves any

farther) only after day-light, and travelled all day long without any

molestation or hinderance a long way after several rough mountains: and

also the next day through sandy desarts, which were deep and hindred our

going on very much. When it began to be night, our beasts were almost

ready to lie down under their burthens in the sand, which was very

tiresome to us, and that the rather, because we saw the town _Zibin_

far off before us, at four miles distance, but at length we got out of

this bad road, into green meadows, to very clear springs, which run over

in several places to water them: so that we began to make more speed,

and came the same night yet very late into the town. It is a fine place

subject unto the _Turkish_ Emperor not very big, lying on ascent, very

well surrounded and fortified with walls and ditches. It is full of

conduits or springs, but chiefly in the great _Camp_, where we rested for

five days to stay for more company. There live abundance of _Armenians_

in it, for it lieth in the confines of the greater _Armenia_, and so

we were no more in so great danger as we were in the country of the

_Curters_. During my staying there, the abovementioned rich _Armenian_

Merchant, and also an eminent _Turkish_ gentleman (which were very kind

to me upon the road) desired me several times (having heard from the

_Jews_ that I was a Physician) that I would be pleased to go along with

them to _Carahemit_, which town was four days distant at the other

side of the _Tygris_, to cure some of their relations that were not

well, they proffered me good entertainment, and to recommend me to the

young Bashaw son of _Mahomet_ Bashaw, who was also sick at that time,

and to bring me into good business; which I would have done with all my

heart, and nothing could have pleased me better, than to have served

the _Armenian_ for his kindness. Yet because I was sent for to come to

_Aleppo_, and could not but be as good as my word, wherein I had also no

small interest, I was obliged to leave that journey, and to strive with

all speed and diligence to get thither. Now as this Bashaw is among the

rest (except the Visir-Bashaws, whereof there are four or five, which are

always at court about the _Turkish_ Emperor, as being his Privy Council)

the chiefest in _Turky_, so he hath larger and more fruitful territories

than he of _Bagdet_, or any other, to govern, _viz._ _Assyria_,

_Mesopotamia_, and a large part of the greater _Armenia_, and of the

province of the _Curters_, _&c._ all which border upon the dominions of

the Sophi King of _Persia_.

After we had refreshed our selves during this time, very well, and other

companies had joined us, we broke up on the 20th towards night, and went

away. By the way we saw several plough’d fields and villages, and we

could speak better with the people, for they understood the _Armenian_,

_Turkish_, or _Arabian_ languages, which are generally used in these

countries. So our travels went on with great speed, so that we reached

on the 21st late, the town of _Hochan_, where the _Jews_ rested and kept

their Sabbath. Here we received the news that _Solyman_ the _Turkish_

Emperor was deceased.

The 23d we got up early again, and went the next way to _Orpha_, another

town, to which we had five days journey. From thence, the nearer we came

to the mount _Tauri_, which separateth _Armenia_ from _Mesopotamia_,

towards the south, the worse grew the roads, which we found very

sufficiently the next day, for when we came farther into the mountains,

the ways were so full of stones that we were hindered very much. Going

thus on, after it had snowed a little, which I have never seen but twice

in these countries, it happened, that one of the _Jews_ horses which

was empty, was frightened at something, and flung itself over and over.

The _Jew_ hearing this noise, looked back, and seeing me stand by it,

he grew angry with me, as if I had done it, and began to handle his bow

and arrows to shoot at me, when I found him in earnest, and remembered

how I lost my wine in the ship, when we went down the river, I did not

delay, but went to hinder him, took him by his leg, and flung him off

his horse, before he could take his aim at me; so we fell a boxing one

another so long, until at length I tripped up his heels. When the other

two saw that we spoiled thus the figure of the snow, and that I was too

hard for him, and had given him several hard blows, they came immediately

to separate us, and to make peace again between us; I seeing that they

did not come to wrong me, and also considering that we were to travel

together still farther, took their council, and was friends with him

again, and so we went on in our way. At night we came to another village

again, in a narrow valley lying at the bottom of a great ascent, near

which we found a great stable wherein we went; this was cut quite into

the hill, and so was that wherein we loged the night before, so that you

could see nothing of if, but only the entrance, for they are commonly so

in these hilly countries under ground, that the caravans may safely rest

there and defend themselves from cold in the winter. This stable (being

25 paces long and 20 broad, and all through equally high) was cut out

of a rock. About midnight, when we were in our first sleep, one of the

Grand Signior’s Chiaus, or Chamber messengers, knocked at the door of

the stable, who was come back from _Bagdet_ in six days to this place,

to look about for some fresh horses, because he had tired his own, and

could not have others by the way, as in our country where posts are

ordered. So he went in, took away from one Mockeri or Carrier, three pack

horses, and two more from the _Jew_, that I had contention with before,

for these messengers of the chamber have great privileges, and in case of

necessity, where-ever they see horses in city or country, they may take

them leaving theirs in the room thereof: They value one no more than

another, except Merchants and strangers, whom they excuse before others

to incourage trade; those that they come to, must deliver up their horses

without any reluctancy, except they have a mind to be soundly bang’d, as

one of our friends was that did not open the gates immediately, or else

to fare worse. When this Chiaus believed he had got very good horses,

he soon found his mistake, for the _Jew_’s horses had galled backs,

wherefore he let him have them again for a small recompence, which was

a child’s coat made of delicate _Indian_ stuff. When our journey was

thus stopp’d, chiefly because of the Mockeri, or Carrier, until he

could procure himself other horses in the room thereof, at least for

that day; we rose the earlier the next day, and traversed several rough

mountains, and went through narrow vallies that day, until at night

we came to a village inhabited by _Armenians_. These are good hearted

Christians, which have great compassion on their fellow Christians, and

love to entertain and to be kind to strangers, which I have very often

experienced, but chiefly in this village, where one of the _Armenians_

took me and the _Jews_ into his house, and would fain have kept us

also the next day. Being at leisure, I would fain have conferred and

discoursed with him concerning our Christian faith, and so was he

willing; but being that we could not understand one another, and the

_Jews_ were in this case by no means proper interpreters, we were forced

to have patience by silence, and to look at one another. About that time

they kept Lent, which I could perceive by their small sort of diet, for

they did eat nothing but leguminous food and bread and water. After he

had set before us some boiled eggs at night, and I being hungry, fell

on them, not imagining that they kept such strictness and difference in

their diet, he admired that I did not refuse to eat the eggs, and asked

me by one of the _Jews_, whether I did not know that it was not allowed

to Christians to eat eggs and the like victuals in Lent; at this I would

fain have answered him, that it became Christians to keep Lent rather

with soberness and abstinency, than with distinctions and differences of

foods. But I not understanding the language, only answered him briefly,

that our Lent was not yet begun, nor would until three weeks hence begin,

which did content him presently.

The 28th we went on our journey again, and came right among the high

mountains, which were very rough, and full of bushes; we got out of them

before night, and lodged our selves in the next village, which lieth

on an ascent in the plain, where we also staid the next day being the

Sabbath. By the way, when the _Jews_ were in fear of having their horses

taken away, as was done some days before, they often gave them to me to

lead them, as if they were mine, hoping to carry them off the easier, so

that although they were my guides, yet I was their safe-guard.

After we had past the great and rough mountains, and were come into a

very fruitful valley, which extendeth itself for a small days journey

to _Orpha_, there appeared presently on each side several villages, and

afterwards, the costly city against us with the castle situated on the

hill, very pleasantly. Into this we got on the thirtieth at night very

early, and went to lodge in the large and very well built camp, and

staid there for 3 or 4 days. This town is very pleasant, pretty big with

fortifications well provided. It was formerly, together with the whole

country, belonging to the Kings of _Persia_, but now it is as well as

the greatest part of the country, brought under the subjection of the

_Turkish_ Emperor. _Orpha_ is a town of very good trade; they deal in

tapestry of several sorts, some whereof are made there, and sent out to

us; there is also a great deposition of merchandizes, which are brought

thither from _Aleppo_, _Damascus_, _Constantinople_, and other places,

to go to _Carahemit_, five days journey distant from hence, and so to

be carried farther into _Media_, _Persia_, the _Indies_, _&c._ yet all

these goods are brought thither in caravans by land, because there is no

navigable river belonging to it. Some say that this town was anciently

called _Haran_ and _Charras_, from whence the Patriarch _Abraham_

departed with his wife _Sarah_, and his brother’s son _Lot_, according

to the command of God, _Gen._ chap. xii. and went forth to go into the

land of _Canaan_ which the Lord had promised to give him, and there is

a plentiful well still to this day called _Abraham_’s well, where the

servant of _Abraham_, whom he sent into _Mesopotamia_ to the town of

_Nahor_, to fetch a wife for his son _Isaac_, from his own kindred, did

first see _Rebecca_, when she gave him and his camels some water to drink

out of this well. And so did afterwards the Patriarch _Jacob_ when he

fled from his brother _Esau_ at this same well, make himself known to

_Rachel_ the daughter of _Laban_ his mother’s brother, when he removed

the stone from the head of the well, and so let her sheep drink. The

water of this fountain hath a more whitish troubledness than others. I

have drunk of it several times out of the conduit that runs from thence

into the middle of the great camp, and it hath a peculiar pleasantness,

and a pleasant sweetness in it’s taste. To the same did also come the son

of the pious _Tobias_, conducted by the angel _Raphael_, whom his father

sent to _Rages_, now called _Edessa_, as is above-mentioned, to call in a

debt from _Gabel_, as you may read in the 11th chapter of his book, when

they returned by the way of _Haran_, which is half way to _Nineveh_.

After the _Jews_ had done their business there with good success, we

went on in our travels again, and came again into the high and rough

mountains, where we spent also the next day with great trouble and

hardship, until we came again to the great river _Euphrates_ into the

town _Bir_, whereof I have made mention before. And although we had no

more but two half days journey to _Aleppo_, yet the _Jews_, my fellow

travellers, had business in the famous town _Nisib_, which is situated on

this side the river on the borders of the lesser _Armenia_, so that we

were bound to go thither; so we put out again on the 6th of _February_

after their sabbath, and went through very fruitful and well cultivated

corn fields to _Andeb_, towards evening. It is a pretty big town, but

not very strong. It lieth on two small hills very pleasantly, so that

you may see it plainly and distinctly, as soon as you come from out of

the valley by the lake into the fields. Yet notwithstanding that it is

so pleasantly situated, and looketh so stately at a distance, it is but

pitifully built when you come within it. In former ages this town hath

been several times besieged by the Kings of _Persia_, by whom it was

taken at last, and kept so long, until the _Roman_ Emperor _Galienus

Odenatus Palmyrenus_, took it from King _Sapor_, together with the town

_Orpha_, and laid it to the _Roman_ empire again. But in these our times,

to our grief, it is brought again, together with all the country, under

the _Ottoman_ slavery. The inhabitants have very little trade, they live

for the most part upon their estates, by cultivating their grounds, and

chiefly from the fruits of vineyards and orchards, which are planted

with pomegranates and figs, _&c._ so thick (that from the great quantity

of trees they may have the more fruit) that you would at a distance,

rather take them to be woods of wild trees, than of fruitful ones. So

they send yearly many sorts of fruits, but chiefly _Cibebs_, into the

eastern countries, by great caravans, whereof I have met many. After we

had staid here, and I had lost a whole day, for their business sake, we

broke up again directly for _Aleppo_, and having passed for several miles

through rough, bad, hilly ways, we came at length into a plain, delicate

and fruitful country, so fruitful of wine and corn, that on all my

journey I have seen none like unto it. This did almost extend itself to

_Aleppo_, where we arrived early, with the help of the Almighty God, in

very good health, on the 10th day of _February_. At my arrival, because

my comrade _Hans Ulrich Krafft_, with the rest, were not there, then

present, presently some _French_ Merchants, which I had cured of several

distempers before my departure, came to me, and carried me home with him,

desiring me to live with them until my business, which caused me to come

back, were done, wherein really they did me a very great kindness. For I

having very well torn my cloaths, which never came from my back in half

a year’s time, I had there an opportunity to rest myself and to procure

myself some new ones. _I thank the Almighty God for his many mercies and

favours bestowed on me, and the assistance he graciously afforded me in

this voyage, returning him praise, honour and glory, ~&c.~_

CHAP. XI.

_Of the ~Turkish~ Physicians and Apothecaries; of my comrade ~Hans Ulrich

Krafft~ of ~Ulm~’s hard Imprisonment. Of the great danger that I was

in, in the towns of ~Aleppo~ and ~Tripoli~. Of the murdering of some

Merchants, and what else did happen when I was there._

At my return to _Aleppo_, where my business obliged me to stay a while,

I came to understand, that during my absence, several _Italians_ and

_French-men_ were in their sickness but very slightly served by the

_Jews_ their Physicians; wherefore I did not only soon recover my former

acquaintance and practice by them, but might have also stept into great

business with the _Turks_; for I was presently so well known, that I had

much to do to excuse my self with discretion to get off of them, that I

might escape their anger and displeasure, which I must have got, if I

had served them never so faithfully, which I knew several had before me

found by experience. Wherefore at the instance of several good friends, I

only cured two great persons, whereof one was a _Georgian_, and at that

time _Sangiack_ of _Jerusalem_, which were very well pleased with me,

and requited me accordingly. The Physicians generally in these parts,

agree before hand for the cure with their patients for a certainty,

according to the condition of the patient and his distemper, and have

security for their money, but yet it is not paid to them before the

patient is cured. They have a great many Physicians, but they are very

unskilful, chiefly the _Turks_, which know none but their own language,

and so cannot read the authors of Physick that have writ in another

language as the _Jews_ can. But seeing that the _Jews_ are very much

addicted to covetousness, they endeavour rather to promote their own

interest than that of their patients; so that the _Turks_ are but

slightly provided with Physicians, and therefore rather die like flies,

than take advice of their Physicians, chiefly of the _Jews_, which are

not contented with a small reward; to this add also that the _Turks_

never put any confidence in the _Jews_, and esteem their counsel but

little; and besides, they believe that God hath already pre-ordained

every one his death, so that he that is born to be drown’d cannot be

hang’d. And besides all this, the _Jews_ do not stick close to them

in time of necessity, but fly presently, and first of all in time of

sickness (which certainly happens once in seven years, if not in five

or sooner) just like hirelings, as they have sufficiently experienced

in the last plague in the year 72, with the loss of several persons of

worth and quality; chiefly among the rest a _Turkish_ Pay-Master, by

them called _Daftedar_, and another eminent _Turk_, and their own sons,

which both of them (although this proferr’d to lay 3000 duckets, and

the other 10000 into the hands of a third person) yet were neglected

and left by their Physicians and died. It is very much in use among

them, that if any body doth find himself not well, another puts his

arms cross before him, and so graspeth him about his back, and lifteth

him up, and sets him down again, and shaketh him several times, just as

they use to do sacks with corn, to make them lie the closer, and to hold

the more. As the Physicians are, so are also the Apothecaries, where

you find nothing of any great compositions, nor purging electuaries, as

_Elect. Diacatholicon_, _Diaphœnicon_, _&c._ although they have the best

ingredients thereof, for we have them all sent from them, except they be

sent to them from _Marseilles_ or _Venice_, _&c._ If you have occasion

for any herbs, roots, or seeds, _&c._ you must go yourself, not without

great trouble and loss of time, and find them either in the fields, or

else at the Grocers and other shop-keepers. Among the rest of the things

they had, I soon knew the Rob Ribes by it’s antient name and pleasent

sourish taste, whereof they make a great quantity in this place, and send

it farther into other countries, but chiefly to the _Turkish_ Emperor;

wherefore in the _Easter_ week they had already gathered several sacks

full of the stalks of the true Ribes of the _Arabians_, (which are hairy

almost, two foot long, and of the thickness of an inch, of a greenish

colour, and underneath, as also _Serapio_ mentioneth, reddish) from the

mount _Libanus_, and brought it to the _Cadi_ to make _Rob_ of it for him.

I saw them lie in his court-yard, and several of them were given me to

taste, and to take away with me. What herbs I found at my return else,

because there are but a few of them, therefore I have put them among

the rest here above in a peculiar chapter. I saw there several strange

birds, and among others, some of a delicate green and blue colour, which

were about the bigness of our nut-crackers, by them called _Sucuruck_,

and by others _Alsecrach_. I also found their _Alhabari_, which are not

unlike our Peacocks, and almost as big, and could not fly much. Of four

footed beasts, I saw several, and among them some civet cats, which were

brought thither in caravans from remote parts, and the _Indies_. In the

_Fundique_ of the Consul of the _Venetians_, I saw a very sharp sighted

one like unto a _Lynx_, exactly of the shape of a cat, so that it was

not easily distinguished from it, save only in it’s bigness, for it is

much higher and slimmer. This is a very wild and fierce beast, so that

his keeper himself was afraid of it. It once got loose, and got through

the yard below into an Apothecaries shop, wherein he had just then put

a great many glasses that were sent him from _Venice_, whereof it broke

the greatest part before it could be taken again. When I was there, a

young _Rhinoceros_ was carried through the town to _Constantinople_. It

came from the most eastern parts, and had killed above 20 men before

they could take it. They also lead daily some Lions about the town in

small chains, which have small bells before, that every body may take the

sooner notice of them; they are so tame, that their keepers sometimes

wrestle with them in open places, neither do they easily grow wild,

except they should see sheep, then their keepers have enough to do to

keep them off and to appease them. Without in the fields in high and

bushy places, are sometimes found Camelions, which are somewhat bigger

than our green Lizards, but a great deal leaner and higher upon their

legs; they walk very slowly and lazily, they live a great while without

meat like the Serpents, and are a very ugly creature. If we put it upon

a coloured, red, yellow, or black cloth, it hath by degrees changed it’s

natural green colour into the same that the cloth was of.

Having ended my business I had, and in the mean time received a letter

from my comrades that were at _Tripoli_, I parted from thence according

to their desire, and came on the 5th of _May_, _Anno 75_, to them in

_Tripoli_. After some days, arrived also with some goods, one of their

chiefest Carriers, which they call Mockeri, which swore to me by his

head, that is, he affirmed upon his faith and reputation, that the

Sub-Bashaw of _Aleppo_, when he was departing from thence, had sent his

Bailiffs to my lodging to apprehend me, and to fling me into the publick

_Turkish_ gaol, because they were very well assured that when I was on

the hills (where they had seen me look for plants) I had observed the

situation of the town, and all the country very diligently, that I might,

when I should have an opportunity, betray them to their enemies, and shew

them the best way to take it. But all this was contrived that they might

have an opportunity to take an _Avaria_ on me, as the Merchants call it

there in these countries, that is to say, they would accuse me falsly to

make me punishable, that they might get a sum of money out of me. And the

Carrier also really believed, for as much as he heard of them, that they

would not have let me come off for less than 200 _Saraffi_ or ducats, one

whereof maketh two of their gilders. _Thanks be to our Lord God, who hath

delivered me from their unjust accusations and contrivances, and brought

me safe to this place._ At my arrival at _Tripoli_, when I expected to

live securely and quietly, and thought that I was passed all danger, I

fell, notwithstanding all this into another; for when my comrades, and

with them also _Hans Ulrich Krafft_ (yet without any transgression) were

flung into the _Turkish_ gaol, by the contrivances of some _Turks_, the

same rogues had also a mind to contrive something against me, to bring

me in also. But the _French_ Vice-Consul, _Andrew Bianchi_, who was my

very good patron, took my part, insomuch that he did recover my liberty

by the _Turks_, in spite of my accusers, and not only got me licence

to walk freely without molestation in and about the city where-ever I

pleased, but did also procure me a free and safe access to my comrades,

to see them in prison as often as I pleased. Into the prison wherein they

were kept, I must always go through three small and low doors, which the

keepers did always very freely and without any grumbling open unto me,

to go in or out, and sometimes I have staid there all night with them. I

was always in very great hopes that God Almighty would have ordered it

so, that their adversaries might have agreed with them, so that I and my

dear friend, whom I loved as my own brother, _Hans Ulrich Krafft_, might

have been returned home again with joy. But it pleased God to order it

otherways, for the differences grew the longer the more difficult, and

were so long produced, that these young gentlemen, particularly _Hans

Ulrich_, was kept there in this hard imprisonment very near three years.

To tell all that he suffered and indured there, would be too long here;

only this I cannot omit to tell you, that he did endure and conquer all

these troubles and adversities (as I did see myself) with such a courage,

patience and good conduct, that notwithstanding all these, although he

was almost left quite comfortless, he was rather fit to comfort others

than to be comforted. When I went thus in and out to them, I observed

very well that the _Turks_ have very great compassion on poor distressed

prisoners, and are very free to give them alms; and a man used to come in

daily with bread or boiled meat, as rice, and other sorts of boiled corn,

chiefly on feast days after the afternoons lecture was over, and when he

distributed them, he did also always as he went by, fling in for each of

them a little loaf (very like unto them they bake in lent in our country)

into their apartment before them upon the ground, wherewith they must

make shift, except they could live on their own means, or get something

by their hand labour, whereof there was a good many that did, to maintain

themselves. These alms, the _Turks_ give rather freely, without being

ask’d for it, for they believe that God is better pleased with that

which they give freely, than that which is begged of them. Wherefore they

have very few or no beggars in their towns, which beg alms as they do in

our country. During my stay at _Tripoli_, I did at the request of the

Consul, live in his Fundique, who entertained me very honourably, that

I might give attendance; and if any of the Merchants or Seamen should

happen to be sick, I might use my best endeavour to cure them. So I did

in the space of three months cure only in our Fundique, above forty men

of all sorts of distempers, _viz._ malignant fevers, violent gripings of

the guts, _&c._ which generally befell them that were lately arrived,

and were not yet acquainted with the air and diet of the country. There

happened in these days, a miserable cruel case, that some (among whom

were five _Italians_ and one _Frenchman_) did arrive at _Tripoli_, which

made themselves soon ready to go from thence farther to _Aleppo_, with

their merchandizes to sell there. Upon the road they left their caravan

too far behind them, and met with some horsemen which spoke to them, and

desired them that they would halt at the command of their master the

Sub-Bashaw, and dismount, and go into the next camp (which I found very

desolate and ruined when I went by formerly) to stay there until he came

to them, which would not be long, for he had something to say to them;

the Merchants obeyed them readily, fearing that if they should not, they

would be punished severely by the Sub-Bashaw for their disobedience.

After they were gone into the camp, the murderers immediately fell upon

them, shooting and striking at them, until they killed them all at last,

then they buried them in the ground, mounted their horses and rode away.

After these murderers thought they were very secure, one of these rogues,

which were said to be _Arabians_, met one of the Mockeri, or Carriers,

of the same caravan, he knew the horse immediately, and perceiving it

to be bloody, his heart gave him that it was not right, wherefore he

made haste up to him, and thrust his bended bayonet into his side, and

took him prisoner, and carried him to _Aleppo_, where he was, as I did

hear afterwards, having confessed the fact when he was upon the torture,

executed for it. They did also seek for the rest, but did apprehend none

of them in the time of my staying. The Sultan else taketh great care to

keep the roads safe and free from highwaymen, that trading may go on

without hindrance. Yet sometimes there are some of the great ones, and

men of note, that put others upon it for gain’s sake, so that one must

be very careful in these countries. It is not long ago when we had news,

that not far off the Christians had taken some ships from the _Turks_ and

carried them off, and also formerly in the beginning of _July_ of the

last year, they lost some more, and as, I am informed, among them were

four great ones, three fly-boats, and two other that were taken by six

gallies of the Christians, which made the _Turks_ mightily discontented;

wherefore the Emperor sends out many gallies into several places, chiefly

to _Rhodes_, to cross the seas up and down to keep them clear from

pirates, and to hinder them from making incursions or descents upon him.

These come sometimes into this port, but our Merchants and the Masters of

our ships do not care for their arrival, for they are forced to present

them with cloths, woollen cloaths, money, _&c._ if they will remain in

favour with them.

[Illustration]

CHAP. XII.

_Of the large and high mount of ~Libanus~, it’s inhabitants and strange

plants that are found there._

When I staid with the Consul at _Tripoli_, and had not a few of his in

cure in his Fundique, some others of other nations did sometimes between

whiles desire my assistance and advice, and among the rest an eminent

Patriarch of the _Maronites_, which reckon themselves to be Christians,

and are called so from the heretick _Maro_ to this day. This did live

in the mount of _Libanus_, and was carried down, although he had a

whole day’s journey to _Tripoli_, and was afflicted with that painful

distemper the gout very severely, to be cured by me. After some days,

when he was pretty well recovered again, so that he intended to return

home; he spoke to some of us in our Fundique, that we would be pleased to

conduct him up the hill home again; which was agreed unto very readily,

considering that this mountain is the most famous in all the country

of _Syria_, whereof the holy Scripture maketh several times mention,

speaking of it’s great heighth and famous rivers (of which _Jordan_ is

one), of it’s sweet smelling plants, and pleasantly tasted fruits; and

also because there is a great many strange plants to be found. So we

rode along with the Patriarch (who had no little reason to be afraid

of the _Turks_ clandestine assault) with all possible diligence, and

came immediately from the town upon the heights of the promontories of

the mount _Libanus_, which were very fruitful at the top, and had many

pleasant plain fields, which extended themselves for three leagues to the

high mount, so that this was a very pleasant road, where we saw sometimes

on one side delicate vineyards, then on the other, fruitful fields sowed

with barley, white _Indian_ millet, _&c._ After this we came to pleasant

woods, where sweet singing birds let themselves be heard, and recreated

us; sometimes we saw some hares and some deer, so that we could not but

fancy that we went through thick and dark woods. When we came out of

them, and were very near unto the mountain, there lay some small villages

before it, and we went to one of them, and very near unto it, in a green

shady place, we sat down, and refreshed our selves with some victuals,

which we had taken along with us before we began to go up the mountain.

The Patriarch was very merry with us, and presented us with some _Venice_

bottles of his wine, whereof we drank a good deal, for it was so pleasant

that I must confess that I never in all my life drank any like it. Soon

after we broke up again, with an intention to reach his monastery that

night, called _Our Lady_’s, which lieth on the middle of the mountain

as we travelled towards the top thereof; in the beginning we came into

a narrow and rough valley, which had on both sides very steep walls,

wherewith it was inclosed of a vast height, chiefly at our left hand,

and yet towards the top, there were several caves within them, wherein

Christians live, whereof we saw a great many that appeared so near to the

edges as they went about, that we that travelled underneath, had much to

do to keep us from being giddy. In that place (where from the height one

may plainly see the whole neighbourhood to the very seas, as if it was

a Specula, such as the ancients used to have) is always a strong watch

kept by the inhabitants of these mountains (because they are not under

the jurisdiction of the _Turks_, as others are, nor in any league with

them) to hinder the _Turks_ from making incursions upon them. When we

went farther, and got over some little hills, we came out of this narrow

place into wide meadows, pastures, corn fields, and to some fruitful

vineyards; then again into narrow and deep rocky roads where we had

enough to do to climb over; and afterwards again into pleasant groves, by

delightful rivulets that arose from springs that made so sweet a noise,

that those mountains are therefore admired and commended, chiefly by King

_Solomon_ in the 4th chapter of his Song, verse 15. in comparison, where

he mentioneth the streams from _Lebanon_, which make _Damascus_ one of

the most pleasant and delicious places in the world.

On this mount grow here and there, besides ordinary trees and

bushes, thick shrubby vines, _Zizipha alba_ & _ratila_, Poplars, two

kinds of Dwarf-cedars with pointed and obtuse leaves, _Eupatorium

Mesuæ_, _Absinthium Ponticum_, _Elæagni Math._ by the inhabitants

called _Seisesun_; and wild horn beams, a peculiar sort of willows,

_Phyllireas_, _Styrax_-trees, the fragrant Gum whereof is to be found

in apothecaries shops; but chiefly, and in the greatest number were the

Maple-trees, which are large, big, high, and expand themselves very

much with their branches. After we had rested ourselves, and were a

little refreshed underneath these, our labour began again, to climb up

these high and steep steps. When we were thus a climbing, some country

people, that we saw up so high before, came out of their caves down to

us, with mugs full of wine, which they presented first to their master

the Patriarch that was on horseback, receiving him with a great deal of

reverence (bowing themselves down to his feet) and loving kindness, and

afterwards they did detain us also, and presented each of us with a mug

of wine to bid us welcome, which I and the rest received very willingly,

but having pretty well heated myself with going, I at that time loved

spring water with bread dipt in it very well, I only tasted a little of

it. After we were got up these stairs, a great many more came running to

present their master with chickens, pullets and other poultry, which his

man took and carried up with them. Then the ways were pretty good and

much straighter, so that we went on apace, until at length we came to

the monastery, which we could not see before we came just upon it. Just

before it without is a most incomparable copious spring, that floweth

with delicate water, which is worthy to be often visited.

This monastry, which is not extraordinary built, lieth towards the left,

almost in the middle of the mountain, under a great rock, which doth so

cover and preserve it, that it cannot easily receive any harm from above.

At our arrival the Monks came immediately, whereof I saw no more than

ten, and received us very kindly, and shew’d us presently our lodging,

which because they had no chambers to spare, was an arch’d chapel,

that we might know whither to repair: Yet we kept more upon the top of

the house, which was like others, cover’d with plaister, which was the

delicatest and pleasantest place of all the buildings, where we could

see the situation of the snowy hill towards the east above the Cedars,

which was a very pleasant sight, and also below us several other hills,

whereon they feed their cattle, together with the deep and dark valley:

and, the monastry being but small, so that they had not much room in it,

we also supp’d there in the open air with the Patriarch and some of his

Fraternity, on a long table. They treated us very well, and gave us some

white wine to drink, which was better than that we drunk on the hill,

in _Venice_ glasses, the like whereof is not to be found, neither in

_Candia_ nor _Cyprus_. But they feed, according to their order, only upon

plain food as beans, and _French_ beans, and the like leguminous fruit,

_&c._ At night when they conducted us to our lodging to go to rest, they

shew’d us instead of beds some straw mats and tapestry, spread upon the

ground in their church on which we were to lie, and so we did and rested

that night. In the morning they came very early before break of day into

the church, when we were still very sleepy, to do their office, and

began immediately to ring two bells, which made underneath the rock such

a resounding noise, that it stupify’d us, and made us (chiefly because

some of us had heard none in two years time, and were full of sleep and

but half awake) so dull, that we did not for a good while know where we

were, until we came a little to ourselves again. Afterwards I heard them

with attention for a good while, and did look into their books which were

written with _Arabian_ letters; but what religion they were of, I shall

tell you hereafter, when I shall make mention of other Christians.

At break of day we made ourselves ready to go farther up the hill, to

the height thereof where the Cedars stand, to see them, so that we might

come to the monastery again. Along with us went two Monks to shew us the

way; they conducted us back again to the rich springs of water, to the

stairs, which were very rough, and so steep that we were often forced

to hold ourselves by the bushes, which we could reach at both sides;

but chiefly when we turned on a sudden, of which turnings they had very

many. So we got up higher and higher, with a great deal of labour, until

we came to a little chapel standing just at the top of the stairs on the

hill. Near to this chapel is a small village, which we went through, and

saw spacious fields well cultivated, so that the inhabitants of these

mountains, could have no want of corn, wine, flesh or oyl, _&c._ although

their neighbours should not supply them for years with any thing; and

besides, their lands are so well secured on the height, and so lock’d

up, as if they were surrounded with high walls and deep ditches; and

moreover they are a very stout and warlike people, very well provided

with bows and guns, _&c._ so that their neighbours cannot easily hurt

nor do any mischief to them; and they are also soon alarm’d, which we

found, when these two Monks did immediately raise twelve men well arm’d,

in the farthermost village towards the snowy hill, to conduct us safe up

to the Cedars of the highest mount, that their neighbours the _Trusci_

might not hurt us. But as I understood afterwards the _Trusci_ are in

confederacy with the inhabitants of mount _Libanus_, so that they need

not to fear any harm from them. But they rather did it to frighten us,

to get a good recompence from us that they might rejoice, and treat us

the better, as Christians, on our return. So these twelve went before us

and conducted us up to another, but very barren and rough plain, where

we found ourselves to be upon the highest point of the mountain, and

saw nothing higher but only a small hill before us, all cover’d over

with snow, at the bottom whereof the high Cedar-trees were standing,

some whereof King _Solomon_ ordered to be cut down to be employ’d for

the use of the building of the temple of _Jerusalem_. And although this

hill hath in former ages been quite cover’d over with Cedars, yet they

are since so decreased, that I could tell no more but twenty four, that

stood round about in a circle, and two others, the branches whereof are

quite decay’d with age. I also went about in this place to look out for

some young ones, but could find none at all. These trees are green all

the year long, have strong stems that are several fathoms about, and are

as high as our Fir-trees. They have very large twigs that bend the tree,

and make it lean that way, which somewhat spoileth their straightness.

Branches grow up straight, as also do the cones thereof, which are large

and round, and extend themselves a great length, in so delicate and

pleasant order and evenness, as if they were trimm’d, and made even with

a great deal of diligence, so that at a distance, you may see the tops of

them very even to one another. So that one may immediately see at a great

distance, a great difference between these and other Fir-trees. They

are else very like unto the Larch-trees chiefly in their leaves, which

are small, and all close together, but stand farther asunder upon small

brown shoots, which in their length and bigness are like unto them of the

_Muscus terrestris_.

After we had rested awhile underneath the Cedars, and began to be coldish

in this windy, snowy, and cold place, we began to return to the monastry

again. By the way I saw about the river three sorts of _Tragacantha_, one

whereof I took according to it’s shape to be that of the learned _Carolus

Clusius_, which is very like unto the true _Tragacantha_. The second is

somewhat lower than the first, else it is very like unto it, only it

beareth yellow flowers, each whereof groweth by itself in round yellowish

bags, and several of them stand one above the other on long stalks. The

third is almost of the same height, and hath more brown colour’d strong

stalks, with white woolly heads of _Poterius_, whereon you see purple

coloured flowers. I found also by them another plant, which to be brief,

considering it’s brown colour’d flexible twigs, and longish fat leaves,

is very like unto the _Chamælea_, of a very sharp taste, I think to be

the first kind of _Sanamunda_ of _Carolus Clusius_. Besides these I saw

hereabouts two thorny shrubs, one whereof was, with it’s red colour’d

grapes (setting the leaves aside as far as I remember) very like unto

our _Oxyacantha_. The other, which was full of thorns, and had small red

purple colour’d flowers, was like unto the first kind of _Scorpius_ of

_Carolus Clusius_. Among the bushes I saw the _Scorzonera_ with yellow

flowers, and also a pretty sort of Tulips with yellow stripes, and not

far from it the true _Ribes_ of the _Arabians_, which I found in autumn

at an ill time, without flowers or seeds, only with two leaves, as if

it was just sprung up. The leaves thereof are rough and round, as big

very near as those of _Petasites_, call’d Butterburn in our language,

which grow upon short yet thick stalks, which are also full of a pleasant

sowrish juice, as well as their stalks, whereof chiefly the true _Rob

Ribes_ is prepared, as I have seen it myself, and _Serapio_ testifieth.

This loveth moist grounds, hath a strong brown colour’d root, which is

pretty long, wrinkly, bended, and of a very unpleasant taste. On the

height of the mount I saw more plants, some whereof I had not time to

mind, and others that are not yet known, wherefore I omit, for shortness

sake, to say more of them.

The mountain is very high, so that it may be seen in _Cyprus_ about 200

_Italian_ miles off; wherefore the day breaketh later at _Tripoli_, and,

not until the morning sun appeareth before it: And moreover you find

there snow all summer long, which they bring down from the mountains,

into the Batzars or Exchanges to sell, to cool their drink with it,

chiefly in the dog-days, and fling it in by handfuls. Yet when we were at

the top, we could not see far about, being hindered by some hills.

After we were come down from the mountains into the little village again,

our conductors brought us into a pleasant garden where their wives came

to us, who brought to us several yet strange sorts of milk-meats to

eat, and very good wine to drink; so we sat down in the grass according

to their fashion, to eat and drink, and to make merry, and spoke to

them in the common _Arabian_ country language, and what we could not

speak out, we made them understand by signs. After we had dined, we

return’d them many thanks, for all their kindnesses and good cheer, and

so we went away. By the way we saw more plants, _viz._ the _Alyssum_ of

_Dioscorides_; a delicate kind of _Cynoglossum_. And also near the stairs

some wild Fir-trees, _Polium Montanum_, _Marrubium Creticum Lobelii_, as

I judged according to it’s shape. A delicate yellow _Jacea_ with scaly

heads, and prickles like unto the _Spina Solstitialis_, which is low,

yet it hath a long and strong root, cover’d with a gray and hairy rind,

like unto the _Victorialis_, the leaves are jagg’d or laciniated, of an

ashen colour and hairy, as also the two before-mention’d; and another

kind of _Jacea_, with purple colour’d flowers, which is very like unto

the yellow one of _Lobelius_ (which I have also found in _Provence_ in

_France_ near _Aix_) saving only the prickles that are about the heads.

Just before we came quite down, I found two kinds of _Linaria_, one

whereof, that is of a pretty bitter taste, puts forth long and slender

stalks from the root, closely surrounded with a great number of _Linaria_

leaves, and hath at top one, two, or three long scaly heads, from whence

issue small purple colour’d flowers; the other groweth also in leaves and

stalks almost like unto the first, only they are smaller and tenderer,

and hath quite to the top abundance of light and small purple colour’d

flowers round about it as the blue one of our gardens. At length after

a long travelling and climbing, we came just when the night broke in,

down to the monastry again; after supper we went strait to rest, that

we might be up early again to go for _Tripoli_. After break of the day

when we had taken our leave of the Patriarch and his brethren, and made

ourselves ready for our journey, we came strait away. By the way we saw

several of _Arbores Judæ_, with their red colour’d husks; and also in the

rock a fine _Gnaphalium_, with ash-colour’d roundish mouse-ear leaves,

and snow white double flowers. As we went on, and were almost come to

the house that stood upon the height, whereof we made mention before,

these inhabitants came down again, got before us, stopt us, and would not

let us pass until we had drank with them. Then we went on again, and I

found in the deep and dark valley the right _Medium Dioscoridis_, and

_Mindium Rhasis_, which I did spie immediately among the bushes, by it’s

height and spacious purple colour’d flower. This plant is very like unto

the _Viola Mariana_, of the learned _Rempert Dodonus_, very stately, so

that no great difference can be found but only in the leaves, which in

this are more carved, like unto those of _Plantain_, and in the flowers

which are more open, and spread themselves with their long and narrow

leaves, whereof each hath eight, into a round circle; the seeds I saw

not because they were not yet ripe, yet I found a greater austerity in

the root than in the seed vessels. Not far off, I also saw in the valley

a strange plant, which was of the height of a cubit, and had whitish

and wolly leaves, like unto our _Mullein_, only they are less, and grow

quite to the stalk, as those of _Tabaco_, or of _Hyosciamus Peruvianus_

of _Rempert Dodon._, at the top thereof grow fine purple colour’d and

white double flowers which stand close together, as those of the yellow

_Amaranth_, or in the little _Auricula Muris_ of _Fuchsius_, so that

according to all this, having also fragrant roots, and like unto those

of black Hellebore, which broke, because I pull’d it up in haste, as I

judged by that part thereof which still was left to them, I clearly take

it to be the true _Baccharis_ of _Dioscor._ In the valley farther down

towards the water, grew also the _Oleander_, and the _Apocynum Repens_,

which climbeth upon the trees that stand nigh it, and covereth them so

that it hangeth down again at the sides, like the _Ephedra_ of _Pliny_.

After we came out before the mountain, there appeareth the _Italian

Spondylium_, _Visnagia_, _&c._ there we went into the next village, and

look’d after the victuals we had left, to refresh ourselves. When we

came from thence I found the black _Chamælion_ with it’s handsome blue

colour’d tops; _Origanum_, _Onites_, _Lycium_ call’d also _Zaroa_ by the

inhabitants; the second _Acacia_ with trefoil leaves, and when we came

near to _Tripoli_, to the old and high rivulet, between the mountains,

I found the second _Tragoriganum_ of _Carol. Clusius_, _Ceterach_ and low

St _John_’s _Wort_, a fine _Chamædrys_, &c. but above all, a thorn-bush,

about the hight of a cubit, very thick of twigs and stalks, so that some

of them lie on the ground; the stalks, whereof many grow out of a root

of a drying quality, and somewhat bitter, are surrounded with a tender

gray rind, underneath which is another reddish one to be found. It’s long

tender leaves that grow one against the other, which are of the colour

of ashes underneath, and green above, are very like unto the leaves of

our _Sanguisorba_; between them at the top or the crown sprout out many

thorns, the biggest whereof divide themselves at the top into other less

ones in very good order, so that some point down, and some upwards,

and others towards the sides, and some thereof sprout out farther

before the rest, which sprout out early in the spring, and bear small

greenish colour’d starry flowers; from underneath them grow out small

soft berries of a whitish colour, and some reddish, which are so close

together, and stand in their ranks, at the top whereof the flower is

still plainly to be seen, like unto our currans. The seeds thereof I have

raised in the famous garden of the generous and eminent _Hans Heinrich

Herwarts_, Alderman of this place, very easily, and they grew up until

they were ready to blow; but as other outlandish plants do seldom endure

our climate, so did this also die the next winter; it is call’d by the

inhabitants _Bellen_, but I am of opinion according to it’s shape, for of

it’s virtue and use I can say nothing, because I never try’d it, that it

is the _Hippophië_ of _Dioscor._ so long until others give me a better

instruction. Not far from hence I found on the height, near to the town

in a rough place, another fine plant, not unlike unto our _Gingidium_,

only that it hath less fenil leaves and beareth a roundish seed, with

many smooth wings hanging round about it, which close themselves

almost into a knot together, with it’s tender leaves, which sprout out

underneath the crown, like unto the black coriander; which induced me to

inquire after it more narrowly what to call it, and being I found that it

had a small white root, tender leaves, and a bitterer taste than our wild

parsnip, and also in the middle of the crown a blewish knob, I cannot

judge it but to be the true _Gingidium_ of _Dioscor._ From thence we soon

went down the stairs again, and came by some _Turkish_ burying places,

and some wild figg-trees, by them call’d _Mumeitz_, whereof a great many

are growing in these grounds, into the town of _Tripoli_.

Soon after an honest and skilful _Botanist_ to whom I came to enquire

after plants, told me that a great many more were to be found

thereabouts. Wherefore I went out again to look for them, and to get

them also. So I found first upon the height near the vineyards a _Cassia

Monspeliensium_, which he call’d _Mackmudi_ and _Macmisi_, and the

berries thereof _Habel Mickeness_. But whether this is to be taken for

the _Avacsium Rhasis_, or no, I cannot certainly affirm. This is so

common in these places that they make brooms of it’s twigs. Moreover I

found in the vineyards another stately, fine and strange plant, which was

about two cubits high, and had whitish, woolly, and long, sharp pointed

leaves, which are set round with small prickles about the edges, and had

on each side towards the stalk little ears, as our sorrel and spinage

have; it is of a bitter taste, and at top thereof on long stalks grow

many smooth hands which in their bigness and flowers are very like unto

the yellow _Jacea_.

But that I may not be too tedious, it being not my intention to treat

here of every one at length, I will mention but one more before I

conclude, which I found just at the spouts where in rainy weather

the water runs down from the mount _Libanus_; which is the true

white _Beheen_ of the _Arabians_, and is still to this day call’d

_Behmen-ahied_, as the red is call’d _Behmen-ackmar_, which also doth not

stand far off, as my friend, that experienced Botanist, hath informed me.

But because I was daily ready to go on ship board, to come home again,

I had not time to obtain it; this was at that time almost decay’d, yet

I found still some green leaves, about it, so that by all appearance it

doth endure the winter, and so shoots out in new by degrees, which grow

up yearly again instead of the old ones, these put forth long, great and

pointed leaves, as big, sharp and as thick as a leaf of a pear-tree;

they have partly underneath on the stalks four much less, which stand

two and two against one another; and one also finds out a few of them on

round stalks, many whereof grow out of the same root, about the height

of a cubit, where the uppermost stick quite close to it, as you may

see on the _Smyrnum Creticum_; on the top it puts forth oblong scaly

yellow buttons, each of them on their peculiar stalk from whence issue

flowers of the same colour; it hath a very long root, which at the top

shoots out great branches, that grow so thick, that in time they may be

separated and transplanted; but else they have but very few fibres, so

that they rather are smooth, and also almost as tough and pliable as

liquorish root, to which it is very like in it’s bigness and colour,

only it is somewhat whiter, and not so strait. But why _Avicenna_ maketh

mention also of it’s wrinckles, I am of opinion that he rather speaketh

of the greater sort, which is more wrinkly and rougher, and also for

above a span long, seem to be shrunk of age and turn’d woody, or decay’d

and dry’d up, although within they are still juicy, limber, and have

kept their natural colour. I was also inform’d of others, _viz._ of the

_Costus Syriacus_, which they still know by the name of _Chast_, and is

found about _Antiochia_: And not far off from thence is also found the

_Nux vomica_ as some esteem them, by the inhabitants call’d _Cutschula_;

which together with a great many other famous ones I might have obtained,

if I could have had a true, faithful and experienced guide; but for want

of such a one, and also because I could stay no longer, I was forced to

leave them behind, to be hereafter found out by such that shall undertake

the like journeys.

[Illustration]

CHAP. XIII.

_Cunning and deceitful stratagems of the ~Grand Turk~ against the

inhabitants of mount ~Libanus~, the ~Trusci~, and ~Maronites~: And how he

made war with them, and what damage they sustained by it._

Having here before made mention of the _Maronites_ and _Trusci_ their

neighbours and allies, I cannot but must also go farther, and briefly

relate, how the _Turk_ did make war against them, (as to whom they

are not yet quite subjected) during the time of my staying in these

countries. But from whence this war did first arise, and had it’s

beginning, I was thus inform’d, that it broke out about one of their

governours, which lived then for a little time at _Damascus_. For when

the Grand Signior observed that these people did daily grow in number

and strength, he consider’d that if he should let them go on so, and

neglect to curb them in time, they might probably after a while grow too

potent for him; wherefore he thought it requisite to study and make it

his business to find out ways and means to subdue them, and to reduce

them under his power. In order thereunto, he apprehended the governour

that lived then in _Damascus_, and put him into prison, and at length

took away his life unjustly, under pretence as if he had endeavour’d

to raise a rebellion; not doubting but that when he had removed their

head, he might the easier subdue and reduce the people. But when the

_Trusci_ and _Maronites_ understood this cruel and abominable fact, not

without grief and trouble, they were not only not at all discouraged

from resisting so great and formidable an enemy, but rather took new

courage that was promoted by the great anger this detestable fact put

them into, so that they united themselves the firmer, and did unanimously

resolve to oppose him with all their might and power, and to stand by

their antient liberty; and accordingly they began immediately to arm

themselves, to fortify their villages, and chiefly their passes, and to

provide themselves with guns, bows, and arrows, and all other things

necessary for their defence, so that in case of necessity they might

be ready to resist their enemies, being such a kind that kept neither

faith nor promise, which they had often experienced to their great grief

and losses. So that in all probability it was like to be a war, which

also broke out with great violence within a little time after. But

because I went for _Bagdat_ at the same time, where in former years the

potent Caliphi did reside, I did hear no more of it in all my journey

until at my return, when my comrade _Hans Ulrich Krafft_ of _Ulm_, then

prisoner in _Tripoli_, did relate it to me, so as it was reported to

him by credible hands; who told me that the _Trusci_ are very numerous,

that they were divided into several regiments, of several colours, and

that those that live in the middle of the high mountains were the most

numerous of them all, that they live in a country that is very well

secured and surrounded, so that they need not, nor will not be subject

either to the _Turks_ or any other potentate. They are warlike people,

for the generality good gunners, that make their own guns and any other

sorts of arms, _&c._ they have plenty of corn, oil, wine, good meat and

good fruit, so that they need not any assistance of strangers. They

chiefly deal in silk, whereof they wind (from silkworms) about one

hundred rotulas in a year (which is about 450 C. weight) to send from

thence into other countries. These have their white colours, and their

confederates that live on the outward hill towards the sea, at _Baruti_

near _Tripoli_, have red ones, and have also their colonel whom they

call _Ermin Mackfur_, who also those that belong unto the white colours

acknowledge to be theirs, as well as their own, who was lately murder’d.

This because he could not entrench himself as well as the other _Trusci_

on the hill, agreed with the Great Sultan, and made peace upon this

account, that if he would let him live peaceably and quietly, he would

help him to protect the country, and pay unto him yearly the accustom’d

tribute, but if the Grand Signior would not be pleased with this proffer,

he would join and assist them. The Emperor accepted of this, and did not

only make this _Ermin Mackfur_ Lord of all _Baruti_ and _Scide_, call’d

_Sidon_, but did also procure him a great and plentiful yearly revenue

out of these countries; thinking thus to oblige him, to help him with

his _Trusci_ to subdue the others, not doubting but that he might easily

overcome these, when once the other on the mountains were kill’d. But

they would not get up the hill, but did profer to the _Turks_, that if

their men and the _Moors_ should go up, they would be ready in the valley

about _Baruti_, to cut off all that should fall into their hands. This

answer they gave to the Sultan, only for fashion’s sake, for no _Truscus_

killeth the other. When the Sultan saw that they would not bite one

another, and that he was not like to obtain any great matter from the

Colonel, he did notwithstanding send up the Bashaw of _Damascus_ with six

other Bashaws and seventeen Sangiacks, about 200,000 strong, both foot

and horse well arm’d, to subdue the before mention’d _Trusci_ which were

about 60,000 strong, to burn, demolish and destroy their towns, villages,

houses and plantations. After they were come up to the ascent two days

journey from _Damascus_, they found the roads so steep that no body could

pass them on horseback, for there was nothing to be seen but rough and

sharp pointed rocks. So they agreed to dismount, and to go up to them on

foot, and so they took presently six or seven villages, whereof there is

said to be twenty seven in all, but they found nothing in them but some

women and children and very few men (the rest were got upon the hills

where they had entrench’d themselves) which were all cut in pieces, and

the villages burnt.

The _Turks_ and _Moors_ thought themselves obliged, according to their

Emperors command to go on farther, so they endeavour’d and got up higher,

but could not do any more harm to the _Trusci_, being hinder’d by the

bad ways; but on the contrary the _Trusci_ met them sometimes and poured

their shot upon them from all sides, before they were aware of it, so

that they were but in an ill condition. Then when the _Turks_ would

pursue these men, they were too quick for them, as being born and bred in

these mountains; so they did only laugh at them, and bid them kiss their

breeches; so the _Turks_, partly for want of provision, partly being

tired by the steep roads, were sometimes forced, not without great damage

and loss of their men, to retire again to take better measures. Sometimes

also the _Trusci_ would stand between the rocks cover’d and when they

found any of their enemies appear, chiefly those that endeavour’d to

climb up the rocks, they would all of a sudden shoot among them as among

a flock of pigeons, so that many of them did precipitate themselves and

broke their necks. They would also sometimes decoy the _Turks_ into a

good road and after eight or ten thousand of them were passed, they would

with six thousand _Trusci_ fall in the rear of them, to drive them up

higher, where others soon did appear that came down upon them; so they

surrounded them sometimes and received them so warmly, that but very few

of them came back again to tell what was become of the rest. After this

war had continued for about two months, the Bashaw at last was forced

to make a shameful retreat with the remainder of his forces, and that

so much the sooner because the winter began to approach, so that it was

impossible to endure the frost and snow, which occasion’d many to die,

and the chiefest of them came home sick.

The _Trusci_ pretend to be Christians, and the posterity of those that

some years ago by might and strength recover’d the Holy Land; so that

still to this day they have a great affection for Christians, which those

that travel among them to buy silks can testify, whom they treat and

entertain very civilly with good meat and good wine, yet refuse to take

any money for it; and say, that what God hath given them they are bound

to distribute among us Christians. But they hate _Mahometans_ and Jews,

and keep very good intelligence with the Christians of this country. Yet

they themselves are neither Christians, _Turks_, _Moors_ nor Jews; for

they do not go to mass, nor any other publick worship of God; they cry

out sometimes to heaven that God would be pleased to protect them. They

also believe according to the opinion of _Pythagoras_, that the souls of

the deceased according to their merits, transmigrate from one body into

another; that the soul of a pious man goeth into a new born child, and

that of an ill man into the body of a dog or other wild beast; chiefly

if he hath lived very ill. As they believe so they live also. Among them

they marry to their nearest relations, the brother to his sister, the son

to his mother, the father to the daughter, and they lie all together a

night, but they will not marry into a strange family. The father or the

mother says, seeing that God hath given me this child as a seed unto me,

why should I throw it away upon a stranger; or else, I have a garden, and

God giveth me flowers in it, is it not reasonable that I should enjoy

them rather than a stranger? _&c._ they make use of a great many of these

and the like expressions. They also keep a yearly feast with their wives

which then they change one with the other as they please. Else they are

not given to stealing, killing or any such like crimes, because they want

for nothing, but if any be taken that hath transgressed he is executed

immediately. So they live in peace together, and care not for any other

Monarch.

_End of the second Part._

[Illustration: CAROLUS JEPHSON IMPRIM]

[Illustration]

Dr _Leonhart Rauwolff_’s

TRAVELS

INTO THE

Eastern Countries.

Wherein is chiefly treated of the Land of Promise, the city of

_Jerusalem_, and also of several opinions, beliefs and Errors of the

_Turks_ and _Christians_.