The next morning our navigation proceeded very well till noon, when we

came to a very broad and shallow place of the river, that our master

did not know which way to get through. When he was thus troubled and

considering, there appeared on the hight on the shoar some _Arabians_,

and shewed us the course we must take, but we durst not trust them, for

we had heard before that they had sunk some great stones there, and

that a month before they had persuaded a ship to go that way which did

not discover their cheat, until their ship after several hard knocks

did split in pieces and sink. The same they would have served others,

which, although they did not follow their counsel yet they came into

such danger, that they could not deliver themselves out of it in a whole

days time. We (thanks be to God) got sooner through than in an hour,

after we had drawn our ship a little back into the deep stream to the

great admiration of the _Arabians_: But the other in our company did not

stick much longer, yet we had more to do to get her off, because she was

shorter with a hollow bottom, wherefore she was sooner turned, but could

not be got out so well as ours which was flat bottom’d. In the evening

very early we saw at a great distance on the other side in _Mesopotamia_,

a castle in the plain called _Sere_, which the _Arabians_, as they say,

have many years ago demolished, which the river _Chabu_, which is pretty

large, runs by, which beginneth not much above the castle (which one may

guess by it’s fresh water like unto fountain-water) and runs a little

way below into the river _Euphrates_. From thence we thought to have

reached _Errachaby_, a town belonging to the King of _Arabia_, but being

hindred in our navigation, as is abovementioned, we landed a little

above this before the night befel us, and went the next morning early to

the before-mentioned town, which was pretty large, and lay about half a

league from the river in a very fruitful country, where we staid until

the next day to sell some goods there. Wherefore two of ours went into

the town to call out some of their Merchants to trade with them.

After they had spent that whole day with them, we went off the next

morning early toward _Schara_, a little village which lieth on the right

hand half a league distant from the river belonging to the King of

_Arabia_, where we landed to pay the usual custom. All about the sides

and the river, I saw a great many bushes and trees. I would fain have

been at them to discern what they were, that I might have viewed them

exactly, but I was forced to stay in the ship and so I missed them.

From _Schara_ our navigation went on for several days very well, but

chiefly through sandy desarts which were as large as any we had before

passed; for they extended sometimes so far, that we could not see the

end of them; and they were so dry, that you could see neither plough,

land nor meadow, tree, nor bush, leaf, nor grass, nor path to go in;

wherefore these may very well be called desarts, which are also called

the sandy seas. First you must expect there great storms, as well as in

the seas, which cause waves in the sand as well as at sea; then those

that go in great caravans through them, must have their leader or pilot,

by them called _Caliphi_, as well as those at sea, who knows how to

direct their way by the compass, as pilots do on shipboard. Then they

provide themselves, because the way is very long through them, with

victuals for a long time, as well as those that go by sea, wherefore they

load generally the third part of their camels with provisions, chiefly

with water to refresh themselves and their beasts in the great heat of

the sun, for throughout all the desarts there is never a spring to be

found, except one should light by chance on a cistern, which yet are

also generally dry, for nothing but the rain filleth them. The _Turkish_

Emperors have ordered 30000 of these cisterns to be dug in the ground

in these desarts (as I was informed when I was at _Aleppo_) and to be

provided with water, that their armies when they marched from place to

place in those times when they had war with the Kings of _Persia_ or

_Arabia_, _&c._ might not want for water, and if one should be empty

they might perhaps find some in the others. In these wildernesses I saw

nothing worth speaking of, but on the 9th of _October_, some ancient

turrets that stood upon the high banks on a point called _Eusy_, where,

as some say, hath been formerly a famous town. Thereabouts the river

taketh so large a circumference, that we went longer than half a day,

before we could pass it. By the same river below us, we saw on the other

side of it several _Arabians_ on horseback; and nothing else remarkable,

but as I have told you before, some small huts of the _Moors_, who came

to see us often, but chiefly at night time to pilfer something, which

they are used to from their infancy. Wherefore it behoved us to have

great care, and to keap a good watch, as I did find it the same night:

For when it was come to my turn to stand centinel again, which I commonly

did in the hindermost part of the ship on high, that I might espy the

thieves the sooner if any should come, I laid down by me a good cudgel,

as we all used to do every time, so I lay down and wrap’d myself up in

a frize coat with hanging sleeves to it, to keep myself from the frost

and dew, which are very frequent and violent there. After long watching,

I began to be drowsy and fell asleep, a thief came through the water to

the ship, where I was laid down very silently, and took hold of one of

my sleeves that hung down, in hopes to draw out the coat gently, not

knowing that I was in it: So I was sensible that somebody was there that

would steal the coat, and got up, and seeing the head of the rogue, I

took hold of my long cudgel to have a blow at him; but he was too nimble

for me, swam back and ran away: The rest that lay by me were awakened

at this, and did perceive that I had seen somebody, but did not know

the particulars, so they were very glad that I had frightened away the

thief, and gave me thanks for my great care and diligent watching. As

the _Moors_ by night follow their robbery, so they came by daylight

often with their wives to trade with us. Wherefore our master sometimes

to please some Merchants did sooner land, who took all sorts of goods

out with him, as soap-balls, beads of chrystal, and yellow agates, glass

rings of several colours, which they wear on their hands and feet; and

several other toys made of red, yellow, green and blue glass; and set

in tin, brass, or lead, high shoes, which are tied with leathern straps

at the top, _&c._ for these goods they truck’d with the _Moors_ for

sheep’s skins, buck’s skins, cheese-curds, and several other things,

and sometimes for money. These _Moors_ do not differ much in their form

from our gypsies, only that these are a good deal browner. They are

very nimble in their actions, but they do not much care to work; they

rather spend their time in idle discourses, or begin to quarrel with one

another with loud and big words, and a great clamour, but seldom are so

much in earnest as to come blows. Their heads are shaved saving only the

crown, where they let generally a long lock grow, like unto the _Turks_,

that hangeth down behind. As to their cloathing, they wear coats made of

course stuff, whole before, and without sleeves; they are pretty long

before, and reach to their knees, such an one I wore on my journey,

striped with white and black; underneath they have long shirts, which are

cut out about the necks and reach down to their ankles; they are commonly

blue, and have wide sleeves which they let fly about chiefly in their

walking, when they fling their arms about to shew their pride. These

shirts they gird up with broad leathern girdles so high, that you cannot

see the girdle but only their bended dagger that sticks or hangs in them

as we wear our swords. The archers put sometimes one of their arms out

of their shirts, and so leave their breast bare at the same time, that

they may shoot and fight the freer without being hindred; those that are

not able to buy shoes, take instead of them necks of undressed skins,

and put them about their feet with the hair outwards, and so tie or lace

them up. The men wear no breeches, but the women do, and they come down

to their ankles. Their faces are not veiled as the _Turkish_ womens, but

else they cover themselves with broad scarfs, which more incline to blue

than to white, and let them (chiefly those that wear narrow ones) hang

behind in a great knot. When they have a mind to be fine, they put on

their precious things, as are marbles, amber beads, glasses of several

colours, _&c._ fixed to laces and hang them down their temples, which

come down about a span long, and fly about from face to neck, so that in

bending or moving their head, they often hurt their face, and do not a

little hinder them in their actions. Those that are of greater substance,

and have a mind to be richer and finer in their dress, wear silver and

gold rings in one of their nostrils (as some do in one of their ears

in our country) wherein are set garnets, turquois, rubies and pearls,

_&c._ They also wear rings about their legs and hands, and sometimes a

good many together, which in their stepping and working, slip up and down

about their hands and feet, and so make a great noise. So much I thought

convenient to relate of the inhabitants of these countries and desarts,

as I have seen and found it.

After we had passed through the great desarts, and began to come pretty

near unto _Ana_, our master landed early in the evening in a very

pleasant place which was about a league and a half on this side of

the town where we staid all night; for the river is very dangerous to

navigate because of it’s swift current and some rocks that lie between

the mountains. This place was so pleasant by reason of it’s fruitful

trees, _viz._ olive trees, orange, citron, limon, pomegranate, and

chiefly date trees, that the like I had not seen before in my travels,

and hard by it was a very thick wood of date trees, whereinto I went with

some of our company, and found so great a quantity of fruit that they did

not esteem them at all, and among them we found two new sorts different

from them that use to be brought to us in our countries, _viz._ quite

red, and yellow ones, by _Serapio_ called _Hayron_, in his 69th chapter;

which although something less than ours, yet are very good, and of a

delicate taste.

The next morning we recommended the ship to the master, and walked (the

ship being pretty well laden) to the town. By the way we found concerning

fruitfulness so great a difference, that we could really say, we were

come from the barren and desolated _Arabia_ (which hitherto had continued

from _Dir_, nay very near from _Aleppo_) into the well cultivated and

fruitful one. For just in the very entrance there appeared fields sown

with cotton, which was as tender and woolly, as one could any where

find: Then delicate fields of corn which grew very high, and was full

ripe, and fit to be cut down: Then trees that stood round about full

of fruit, so that we had a very pleasant walk to the town. In this way

I saw no strange plants at all, only in the corn the _Moluchi_ of the

_Arabians_, whereof I have made mention before, which is esteemed to be

the _Corcorum Plinii_; and also another, which because of it’s height is

easily seen; this is very like unto the _Sesamum_, only that the stalk is

longer and fatter, the leaves are rougher, and the uppermost ones are cut

in three different ones, which is not to be seen in the uppermost leaves

of the _Sesamum_, the leaves whereof are more like unto willow leaves

both in length and colour: Between the leaves that stand singly about the

stalk one above the other, sprout out stately flowers, which are yellow

without, and intermix’d with red veins, and of a purple brown colour

within, and have a long style or pointel in the middle thereof; when

these are fallen off, there grow long pods out of them, about a finger

long and thin, which are hairy without, pointed towards the top, and have

five distinctions within, wherein the seeds are contained (which are very

like unto the sort of malva that is called _Abutilon_) and are placed in

good order one above the other. I did very much enquire after this plant,

but they know no other name for it, but _Lubie Endigi_, that is, _Indian_

kidney-beans: But according to my knowledge, I rather take it to be the

_Trionum_, whereof _Theophrastus_ maketh mention in several places.

The town _Ana_ is by the _Euphrates_ divided into two parts, or rather

into two towns, whereof the one is not very big, and subject to the

_Turk_, and is very well guarded with old walls, and so surrounded by

the river, that you cannot go into it but by boats, but the other that

lieth on this side belongeth to the King of _Arabia_, is very great, and

very ill provided with walls and ditches, so that you may go in and out

by night, as in all other towns belonging to him. This, and also the

whole province, is called _Gimel_, and is fifteen days journey distant

from _Aleppo_, and goeth down a great way the river, so that we had a

good hour to go before we came to the house of our master, which was near

the harbour, where our ship did lie. The houses are built with brick and

stone walls, and very well done; and we could hardly see one on either

side but what had a garden to it, planted with dates, lemon, citron and

pomegranate trees, with delicate fruit in it. At the other side on left

in _Mesopotamia_, I saw nothing but some summer houses standing about

the hills. By the way before we came to _Ana_, I observed very well that

some of our company (to whom I was by an outlandish man recommended) left

me, and began to contrive with the master, who was born in that town, to

accuse me by a second hand, that they might not be seen in it, as a spy

before the magistrates, pretending that I observed all towns and places

accurately, and had a mind to betray them at my opportunity; which they

chiefly did to frighten me, and so to get the sooner some good booty

out of me. In order whereunto, some of them went to the Sub-Bashaw, and

obtained presently of him to send one of his servants with them, which

came to me in the long street, having some iron chains and fetters in

his hands, which he let hang down upon the ground, and led me along; so

that I presently understood that they had an ill intention against me,

which they intended to execute. So I went along with him to see what

they would do with me; when they came to the harbour, they gave me leave

to go into the ship, and to stay there until I heard more of them. So

they soon agreed together, and told me, chiefly one of them that was on

horseback in a long furr’d coat, that if I would be at liberty, I must

pay to the Sub-Bashaw 500 ducats. When I was considering these things,

and saw myself also quite left alone, and their demands so extraordinary

unreasonable, and found myself in this great necessity and danger, it

came into my mind, that there was another magistrate in the other town

_Ana_, at the other side of the river, which was a _Turkish_ one, to whom

I would make my complaint of their unjust and unreasonable imposition,

to see whether I might not find help and assistance of them; wherefore

I provided myself with my pass, and fitted myself so in cloaths that I

might be able to swim, so that if they should assault me to take hold of

me, I might soon make my escape over the river without any opposition or

hindrance. At length, when they expected my answer, and the money, I told

them my intention plainly and clearly, which put them into greater fright

and fear than they had put me in before. Wherefore they gave over their

unjust demands, and desired of the 500 ducats no more but a single one,

which they were forced to give to the servant of the Sub-Bashaw for the

pains he had taken.

CHAP. VI.

_Which way we travelled from ~Ana~ farther to old ~Babylon~, by some

ancient towns called ~Hadidt~, ~Juppe~, ~Idt~, and saw more pleasant,

fruitful and well cultivated fields on each side than before._

After the designed storm that should have befallen me was over, and I by

the power of the almighty God delivered, as it hath pleased him to do

with a great many more, which would be too long to relate all here, we

immediately departed from thence on the 15th of _October_. A little below

it we found a fruitful and well cultivated country, and some fine houses

standing here and there so near together, that before we passed one we

could see another, which had also their orchards and kitchen gardens,

and round about them fine woods of date trees and many others, which I

could not discern because it was too far off; so that we found a great

alteration, and our wilderness, wherein chiefly at a distance from the

river, we hardly saw a tree in a whole day, changed at the lower end of

the town into a fertile soil: Wherefore our voyage was very pleasant to

us, for we had also less danger to fear from the _Arabians_. But our

master was very much troubled, because the river was often stopp’d up at

the sides with great stones that made the river swell, for there was a

great number of large and high water engines or wheels, therefore these

stones were laid to lead the stream to them to make them work, for it

often happened that two of them stood close together, which took up so

much of the river, that we had hardly room to pass by them in the middle

of the stream, wherefore he was forced to have great care, to find

the right way where he might pass without danger. The reason why these

water-wheels are so much in use is, because this river doth not over flow

(as the river _Nilus_) to water the grounds, neither doth it rain enough

here sufficiently to moisten the seeds and garden-plants, that they be

not burnt by the great heat of the sun, wherefore they must look out for

such means, as will supply this want. To do this they erect water-wheels

(whereof three or four stand behind one another) in the river, which go

night and day, and dip up water out of the river, which is emptied into

peculiar canals, that are prepared on purpose, to water all the ground.

But if the places lie not conveniently, or the shore be too high to erect

such wheels, they make instead of them bridges and peculiar engines, that

are turned by a couple of bullocks, to bring the water up, with great

leathern buckets, which are wide at top and narrow at bottom. This land

being so fruitful, we soon found, to our great pleasure, great quantities

of delicate fruit, sold for a small matter of money, and among the rest

chiefly _Indian_ musk-melons, that were very well tasted.

When we came farther we had generally even ground at both sides, and not

a few fields, the most part whereof were sown with _Indian_ Millet, for

they sow more of this than of wheat or barley, for the land is pretty

deep, wherein the corn would not grow so well. This Millet was just fit

to be cut down, and in some places they had it in already. It shoots up

into a high stalk about six, seven, or eight cubits high, the leaves

thereof are like unto the _Indian_ corn, or sugar-reeds, which I took it

for at first, and that because the inhabitants did chaw it as well as the

sugar-canes, because of the sweet and pleasant juice (which is more in

the upper part of the cane, whereas that of the sugar-canes, is more in

the lower) which they draw out of it, untill I saw at length their white

hairy tops sprout out, which are large and not unlike to the _Italian_

Millet. These are full of whitish grains each of which sticks between

two broad flying leaves, of the bigness of those of the _Orabus_, yet

somewhat more compressed at the sides. Hereof they bake very well-tasted

bread and cakes, and some of them are rowled very thin, and laid

together like unto a letter, so that they are about four inches broad,

six long, and two thick; they are of an ashen colour. The inhabitants

call it still at this day by it’s ancient _Arabian_ name _Dora_, whereof

_Rhasis_ maketh mention. He that will may read more of it in authors.

Our voyage went on very well; wherefore the Merchants began several

pastimes, some did play at a play called the Eighteenth, and others

played at Chess, in which two games they were very well versed; others

spent their time in reading and singing. Among the rest there was a

Merchant from _Balsara_, that sung out of his _Koran_ (which was put into

rhymes in the common _Arabick_) several times with a loud and delicate

voice; so that I took great delight in hearing him. Yet they were not so

hot in their gaming or jesting, that they should therefore forget the

hour of their prayers, chiefly their divines that were in orders, which

used to call them out with a loud voice, at the usual hour, either in

the ship, or without in the desarts, if they could have convenient time

and opportunity. But among the _Persians_ I found a greater zeal and

earnestness, than among the _Turks_ or _Moors_, all which nations have

notwithstanding the same ceremonies in their prayers. For as they have

chiefly five hours of praying, whereof three are in the day-time; _viz._

the first about noon, the second about three, and the third when the sun

begins to set; the two others in the night, one in the morning an hour

and half before the sun riseth, and the second after sun set when the

firmament begins to look white and the stars to appear: So the _Persians_

would not be hindered, by the darkness of the night, danger of the place,

inconveniency of the time, to go out, when the others were asleep, on the

ground in the island where we were landed, and say their prayers with

such an earnestness and devotion, as I have often seen it, that the tears

run out of their eyes: I must also needs say that they keep closer and

stricter to their laws than almost any other nation, which forbid them to

drink wine, and command them to live in poverty, and to watch and pray

continually.

The eighteenth day of _October_ we came early to _Hadidt_, a pretty

large, yet anciently built, town, belonging to the King of _Arabia_,

which is also divided into two towns by the river _Euphrates_, like unto

_Ana_, whereof the greater part lieth on this side of the river. Here

the master payed for his ship two _Sayet_ (one whereof is about three

pence in our country) to the customers, and so set sail again, to try

whether he could reach that night to _Juppe_. And he did oftner than ever

before, speak to his men to pull on (chiefly where the river in it’s

breadth and depth was almost like unto the sea) so that at night pretty

late we arrived at _Juppe_, a pleasant and well built town belonging to

the _Turks_, and it is also divided into two parts, whereof one lieth

in the middle of the river on a high ground, at the top whereof is a

fortress, so that the town is pretty well defended: The other (which

is rather bigger) lieth on the left in _Mesopotamia_, wherein are many

fine orchards belonging to the houses, full of high date-trees, _&c._

wherefore the Merchants spent half a day there to buy dates, almonds, and

figs to carry with them into the inns; the same they did at _Idt_ another

great town of the _Turks_, on the right-hand of the _Euphrates_ situate

on a high ground, where we arrived on the 20th of _October_ at night in

very good time, and gave them instead thereof soap-balls, knives, and

paper, _&c._ After which goods they have often enquired of us; and we

have given them sometimes some sheets of white paper, which they received

with great joy, and returned us many thanks for them.

After our Merchants had sufficiently stored themselves with these goods,

and our master had pay’d the duty for his two ships, he put off about

noon on the 21st of _October_ and went away. About the evening we saw at

this side of the river a mill, and also the next day another, whereby

were several old walls, doors and arches, _&c._ whereby I conjecture that

formerly there stood a town. These two mills, as I was informed, were

two powder-mills that make gun-powder for the _Turkish_ Emperor, and

send it to him in caravans, together with other merchandizes through the

dominions of the King of _Arabia_, wherefore he must as well as other

Merchants, pay duty (for that liberty) and toll or custom. The gun-powder

is not made from salt-peter, as our is, but out of another juice, which

they take from a tree that is reckon’d to be a kind of willow; known to

the _Persians_ by the name of _Fer_, and to the _Arabians_ by _Garb_,

as I have mentioned above. Besides this they take the small twigs of

these trees together with the leaves, and burn them to powder, which

they put into water to separate the salt from it, and so make gun-powder

thereof, yet this is nothing near so strong as ours. _Pliny_ chiefly

testifieth this in his 31st book and 10th chapter, where he saith that in

former days they have made Niter of oak-trees, (which certainly he hath

taken these to be, for they are pretty like oaks) but that it hath been

given over long before now. Which is very probable, chiefly because the

consumption thereof was not so great, before they found out guns, as it

is now since they have been found out.

Further on the water-side, on the high banks, I saw an innumerable many

coloquints grow and hang down, which at a distance I could not well

know, until they called them by their ancient _Arabick_ name _Handbel_,

whereby they still to this day are known to the inhabitants. After we

had navigated a great way several days one after another, through even

grounds, and in a good road, we arrived at length on the 24th day of

_October_, at night, near to _Felugo_ or _Elugo_, a little village called

so, and with it the whole province.

[Illustration]

CHAP. VII.

_Of old ~Babylon~ the metropolis of ~Chaldee~, and it’s situation, and

how it is still to this day, after it’s terrible desolation to be seen,

with the tower or turret, and the old ruined walls, lying in the dust._

The village _Elugo_ lyeth on the place where formerly old _Babylon_,

the metropolis of _Chaldee_, did stand; the harbour lyeth a quarter of

a league off, whereinto those use to go, that intend to travel by land,

to the famous trading city of _Bagdet_, (which is situated farther to

the east on the river _Tygris_, at a day and a half’s distance). At this

harbour is the place where the old town of _Babylon_ did stand, but at

this time there is not a house to be seen, whereinto we could go with

our goods and stay till our departure. We were also forced to unload

our merchandises into an open place, as if we had been in the midst of

the desarts, and to pay toll under the open sky, which belongeth to the

_Turks_. This country is so dry and barren, that it cannot be tilled,

and so bare, that I should have doubted very much, whether this potent

and powerful city (which once was the most stately and famous one of the

world, situated in the pleasant and fruitful country of _Sinar_) did

stand there if I should not have known it by it’s situation, and several

ancient and delicate antiquities that still are standing hereabouts

in great desolation. First by the old bridge, which was laid over the

_Euphrates_ (which also is called _Sud_ by the prophet _Baruch_ in his

first chapter) whereof there are some pieces and arches still remaining,

and to be seen at this very day a little above where we landed. These

arches are built of burnt brick, and so strong, that it is admirable;

and that so much the more, because all along the river as we came from

_Bir_, where the river is a great deal smaller, we saw never a bridge,

wherefore I say it is admirable which way they could build a bridge here,

where the river is at least half a league broad, and very deep besides.

Near the bridge are several heaps of _Babylonian_ pitch, to pitch ships

withal, which is in some places grown so hard, that you may walk over it,

but in others that which hath been lately brought thither is so soft,

that you may see every step you make in it. Something farther; just

before the village _Elugo_, is the hill whereon the castle did stand

in a plain, whereon you may still see some ruins of the fortification,

which is quite demolished and uninhabited: Behind it pretty near to it,

did stand the tower of _Babylon_, which the children of _Noah_ (who

first inhabited these countries after the deluge) began to build up unto

heaven; this we see still, and it is half a league in diameter, but it

is so mightily ruined, and low, and so full of vermin that hath bored

holes through it, that one may not come near it within half a mile, but

only in two months in the winter, when they come not out of their holes.

Among these Insects, there are chiefly some, in the _Persian_ language

called _Eglo_ by the inhabitants, that are very poisonous; they are (as

others told me) bigger than our lizards, and have[2] three heads, and on

their back several spots of several colours, which have not only taken

possession of the tower, but also of the castle (which is not very high)

and the spring-well, that is just underneath it, so that they cannot live

upon the hill, nor dare not drink of the water (which is wholesome for

the lambs.) _This is Romance._

From this tower, at two leagues distance eastward, lieth the strong

town _Traxt_, which was formerly call’d _Apamia_, mention’d by _Pliny_

in book VI. chap. 26, 27, between the _Tygris_ and _Euphrates_, those

two great rivers of Paradise, whereof is made mention in the second

chapter of _Genesis_; which two rivers not far below it meet together,

and are there united. The town _Traxt_ is surrounded with ditches,

and very well defended by two strong citadels, that lie on each side

thereof, so that it is as it were, a key and doorway into the kingdom of

_Persia_, to which it doth also belong, as others not far from thence,

_viz._ _Orthox_, _Laigen_, which lie on the road towards _Media_; and

also _Goa_, which lieth a league and an half at the other side of the

_Tygris_, and _Axt_, two leagues farther still, in the way to _Persia_.

The next day, being the 25th of _October_, we spent in bespeaking of

camels and asses to load our goods upon, and after we were quite ready,

we broke up the day following early in the morning with the whole

caravan, to travel to _Bagdat_. In the beginning the ways were very

rough, by the stones and ruins that lie still from thence dispersed. But

after we were passed the castle and also the town of _Daniel_, the dry

desarts began again, where nothing was to be seen but thorns, neither

men nor beasts, neither caves nor tents, so that a man that knoweth the

ways never so well, hath enough to do to find them through it, which I

did often observe in our guide or Caliphi, who did several times, because

there was neither way nor mark neither of men nor beasts to be found,

very much doubt which way to turn himself, and so he did more than once

turn sometimes toward one, than towards the other side the whole caravan.

By the way we saw in the plain many large, ancient, high, and stately

buildings, arches, and turrets standing in the sand, which is very fine,

and lieth close together, as you find it in the valleys, here and there,

whereof many were decay’d and lay in ruins; some to look upon were pretty

entire, very strong, adorn’d with artificial works, so that they were

very well worth being more narrowly look’d into. Thus they stand solitary

and desolated, save only the steeple of _Daniel_, which is intire, built

of black stones, and is inhabited still unto this day; this is in height

and building something like unto our steeple of the Holy Cross church,

or of St _Maurice_ in _Augsburg_; on which as it stands by itself, you

may see all the ruins of the old _Babylonian_ tower, the castle-hill,

together with the stately buildings, and the whole situation of the old

town very exactly.

After we had travell’d for twelve hours through desolate places, very

hard, so that our camels and asses began to be tired under their heavy

burdens, we rested and lodged ourselves near to an ascent, we and our

beasts, to refresh ourselves, and so to stay there till night, and to

break up again in the middle thereof, that we might come to _Bagdat_

before sun-rising. The mean while, when we were lodged there, I

consider’d and view’d this ascent, and found that there was two behind

one another, distinguish’d by a ditch, and extending themselves like

unto two parallel walls a great way about, and that they were open in

some places, where one might go through like gates; wherefore I believe

that they were the walls of the old town, whereof _Pliny_ says that they

were two hundred foot high, and fifty broad, that went about there, and

that the places where they were open, have been anciently the gates of

that town, whereof there were a hundred iron ones; and this the rather,

because I saw in some places under the sand, wherewith the two ascents

were almost cover’d, the old wall plainly appear. So we found ourselves

to be just lodged without the walls of that formerly so famous kingly

city, which now with it’s magnificent and glorious buildings, is quite

desolated and lieth in the dust, so that every one that passeth through

it, in regard of them, hath great reason to admire with astonishment,

when he considers, that this city, which hath been so glorious an one,

and in which the greatest monarchs and kings that ever were (_Nimrod_,

_Belus_, and after him King _Merodach_ and his posterity to _Balthasar_

the last) have had their seats and habitations, is now reduced to such

a desolation and wilderness, that the very shepherds cannot abide to

fix their tents there to inhabit it. So that here is a most terrible

example to all impious and haughty tyrants, shewn in _Babylon_, which

may be sure, that if they do not give over in time, and leave their

tyranny, ceasing to persecute the innocent with war, sword, prison, and

all other cruel and inhuman plagues, as these did the people of God the

_Israelites_, that God the Almighty will also come upon them, and for

their transgressions punish them in his anger, for God is a jealous

God, that at long run, will not endure the pride of tyrants, nor leave

unpunish’d the potentates that afflict his people; wherefore be sure,

he will also in them verify the prophecies which he had utter’d by the

Prophet _Isaiah_, in his thirteenth chapter, and _Jeremiah_ in the fifty

first, against those insolent and haughty _Babylonians_.

As I passed by, I found some thorns growing in the sand, _viz._ the

Acacia, call’d _Agul_, whereon, chiefly in _Persia_, the Manna falls,

whereof I have made mention before: Above all I found in great plenty

some strange kinds of Cali of _Serapio_, of Coloquints. When evening fell

in, and the night did approach, our mockeries that drove the asses, made

themselves ready again for our journey; who kept every thing together, in

good order, and were so quick in loading and unloading, that they were

ready in less than a quarter of an hour. By the way I saw again several

antiquities, but the night falling in I lost them; so we went on a-pace

in darkness, so that we did arrive at _Bagdat_, by some call’d _Baldac_,

two hours before day. In the morning, which was the twenty seventh of

_October_, I and one of my comrades took our lodging at an eminent

Merchant’s house, that belonged to _Aleppo_, and was lately come from the

_Indies_; he received us kindly, and very readily, and kept us for four

days, when we took a shop in the great camp of the _Turkish_ Bashaw, in

the other town, on the other side of the _Tygris_, which we went into.

[Illustration]

CHAP. VIII.

_Of the famous city of ~Bagdat~, called ~Baldac~; of it’s situation,

strange plants, great traffic, and Merchants of several nations that

live there, together with several other things I saw and did learn at my

departing._

The town _Bagdat_, belonging to the _Turkish_ Emperor, is situated on the

most easterly part of his dominions, on the rapid river _Tygris_, and

the confines of _Persia_, in a large plain, almost like unto _Basiel_

on the _Rhine_, it is divided into two parts, which are rather bigger

than _Basiel_, but nothing near so pleasant, nor so well built, for the

streets thereof are pretty narrow, and many houses so miserably built

that some of them are down to the first story, and others lie quite in

ruins. The case is the same with the churches, which for age look black,

and are so much decay’d, that you shall hardly find a whole one; whereon

are still several old _Arabian_, or rather _Chaldean_ inscriptions to

be seen, cut out in stone, by the means whereof many antiquities of the

town might have been truly explain’d, but I could not only not read them,

but could get no body that could interpret them to me. These are some

buildings that are worth seeing, as the camp of the _Turkish_ Bashaw, and

the great Batzar or Exchange beyond the river in the other town, and the

Baths which are not to be compared with those of _Aleppo_ and _Tripoli_,

for they are at the bottom and on the walls done over with pitch, which

maketh them so black and dark, that even in the day time, you have but

little light. There being two towns, one of them which lieth on this

side is quite open, so that you may go in and out by night without any

molestation; wherefore it should rather be call’d a village great than

a town; but the other that lieth towards _Persia_ on the confines of

_Assyria_, is very well fortifieth with walls and ditches, chiefly

towards the _Tygris_, where there are also some towers, two whereof are

within by the gates that lead towards the water side, to guard them,

and between them are the old high walls of the town, whereon on the top

are stately writings, with golden letters, each whereof is about a foot

long, to be seen; the true meaning thereof I would fain have learned,

but for want of understanding and interpreters, I could not obtain it,

but was forced to go without it. Near unto it there is a bridge made of

boats, that reacheth over the _Tygris_ into the other town, which in that

place is about as broad as the _Rhine_ is at _Strasburg_, and because

of it’s rapid stream so dark and dull, that it is a dismal sight to

look upon it, and may easily turn a man’s head and make him giddy. This

river runneth not much below the town into the _Euphrates_, and so they

run mixt together into the _Persian_ gulf, by the town _Balsara_, which

is six days journey distance from thence eastwards. These two towns as

is said, at the river _Tygris_, were many years agone built out of the

ruinated city of _Babylon_, whereof the one on the other side of the

river is accounted to be the town of _Seleucia_ of _Babylon_, and that

on this side, which is more like unto an open village, is believed to be

the town _Ctesiphonta_. _Strabo_, in book XV, doth testify this, when he

writes thus of them: That _Babylon_ hath formerly been the metropolis

of _Assyria_, and that after it’s devastation, the town of _Seleucia_,

situated upon the _Tygris_, near which was a great village, wherein the

king of the _Parthians_ did keep his residence for the winter. _Pliny_

maketh also mention thereof in his sixth book, and in the twenty sixth

and twenty seventh chapter, _viz._ That the two towns of _Seleucia_

of _Babylon_, and _Ctesiphonta_, were built out of the ruins of the

old city, and that the river _Tygris_ runs between them. In the town

_Seleucia_, stands in a large place, the castle, which is without guarded

neither with walls nor ditches, nor is quite finish’d within. Before it

lie some pieces of ordnance in the road, which are so daubed with dirt,

that they are almost quite covered. In it dwelleth the _Turkish_ Bashaw,

who, when he understood that two strangers were come into his camp, sent

for us, and had us before him by his men; along with us went freely an

_Armenian_, whom we had known formerly at _Aleppo_, to assist us, and to

be our interpreter, to give the Bashaw a good and sufficient account of

us.

When we came into the room of the Bashaw, which was but very ordinary,

yet spread with delicate tapestry and well adorned, and appeared with

accustom’d reverences, he ask’d us, sitting in his costly yellow

colour’d long gown, by one of his servants, in _French_, which he did

not understand very well, from what places we came, what merchandizes

we had brought with us, and whither we intended to go. After we had

punctually answered him to each question, yet he was not satisfy’d, but

bid us to withdraw, and stay until we heard his answer. We understood

his meaning very well, that it was only to scrue a present out of us,

yet we would not understand it, but shew’d him our pass, subscrib’d both

by the Bashaw and the Cadi of _Aleppo_, to try whether that would give

him content. So he took it and read it over, and look’d very diligently

upon their seals, as they use to seal, after they had dipp’d it first

into ink, so that all but the letter is black. When he found them right,

and did not know any more to say to us, he let us go, then we made him

his reverence again, and so we went backwards out of his lodgings, for

if you turn your back to any one, altho’ it be a far meaner person, they

take it as a great uncivility, rudeness, and disparagement. This Bashaw

keeps a great garrison in the town of _Bagdat_, because it lieth on the

confines of _Susiana_, _Media_, &c. which are provinces belonging to the

King of _Persia_, and the Grand Signior hath nothing more towards the

east of it to command. His greatest dominions are the wildernesses of

the desart of _Arabia_, whereof the _Turk_ hath one part, but the other,

and the biggest, belongs to the King of _Arabia_. After the Bashaw had

given us leave to go, we went to our lodgings again, and bought by the

way in the Batzar some provision to eat, and to boil for supper, for

in these countries are no inns to be found, whereinto one may go, and

find a dinner ready prepared for chance-customers, as in our country

is done, except one would go into a cook’s shop, whereof there are a

great many in the Batzars; but every one boileth for himself what he

hath a mind to, without doors, before his lodgings, where there is a

chimney for that purpose; so that in the morning, and at night when it

is time to eat, you see every where in the allies of the camp several

fires. When we went to eat we were forced, because in these chambers is

neither table, nor stools, nor bench, to sit down on the ground, and

also lie upon it all night, so that our cloaks were very useful to us,

to serve us instead of a bed, chiefly in the winter, to keep us warm;

yet the winter is not very severe in those countries, which you may

conclude, for that our March-flowers, Narcissus’s, Hyacinths, Violets,

_&c._ were here full in flowers in the month of _December_; and that

the farmers went to plough at that time; wherefore I judge that their

winter is like unto our spring. When we lived at _Bagdat_, I found by our

catering, that the scarcity was still very considerable, and it would

have been more, and have increased, if the towns that lie above it on

the _Euphrates_ and _Tygris_, and chiefly _Mossel_, which formerly went

by the name of _Nineveh_, had not sent them great supplies, as did also

those of _Carahemit_, _&c._ which supply they have also almost always at

any other time occasion for, for their cultivated grounds are chiefly in

_Mesopotamia_, where they have almost none at all, so that there groweth

not enough to maintain themselves; wherefore the two rivers are very

necessary to them, not only to provide them with victuals, as corn, wine,

fruit, _&c._ but also to bring to them all sorts of merchandizes, whereof

many ship-loads are brought in daily. So that in this town there is a

great deposition of merchandizes, by reason of it’s commodious situation,

which are brought thither by sea as well as by land from several parts,

chiefly from _Natolia_, _Syria_, _Armenia_, _Constantinople_, _Aleppo_,

_Damascus_, &c. to carry them farther into the _Indies_, _Persia_, &c.

So it happened that during the time I was there, on the second day of

_December_, in 1574 there arrived twenty five ships with spice and other

precious drugs here, which came over sea from the _Indies_, by the way

of _Ormutz_ to _Balsara_, a town belonging to the Grand _Turk_, situated

on the frontiers, the farthest that he hath south-eastwards, within six

days journey from hence, where they load their goods into small vessels,

and so bring them to _Bagdat_, which journey, as some say, taketh them

up forty days. Seeing that the passage both by water and land, belongeth

both to the King of _Arabia_ and Sophi of _Persia_, which also have their

towns and forts on their confines, which might easily be stopt up by

them, yet that notwithstanding all this they may keep good correspondence

with one another, they keep pigeons, chiefly at _Balsara_, which in case

of necessity might soon be sent back again with letters to _Bagdat_. When

loaden ships arrive at _Bagdat_, the Merchant, chiefly those that bring

spice, to carry through the desarts into _Turky_, have their peculiar

places in the open fields without the town _Ctesiphon_, where each of

them fixeth his tents, to put his spices underneath in sacks, to keep

them there safe, until they have a mind to break up in whole caravans; so

that at a distance one would rather believe that Soldiers were lodged in

them, than Merchants; and rather look for arms than marchandizes: And so

I thought myself before I came so near that I could smell them.

Some of these Merchants that came with the same ships, came directly to

our camp, and among the rest a Jeweller, who brought with him several

precious stones, _viz._ Diamonds, Chalcedonies, which make incomparable

hafts to daggers, Rubies, Topazes, Saphires, _&c._ the two first whereof

he had procured in _Camboya_, and most of the rest in the island of

_Zeylan_, whereof he shew’d us several very fine ones. The Merchants

bring these along with them in great caravans, and keep them very close

and private, that they may not be found out, at the custom-houses and be

taken away from them which the Bashaws do constantly endeavour with all

their might and power. For the _Turks_ do not love that precious stones

should cost them money, for they are extraordinarily covetous, wherefore

you find but a few among them, but if they can have them without cost,

after the aforesaid manner they love them dearly, and keep them in great

esteem. In the room of them other stones are sent into the _Indies_

again, Corals, Emeralds (which are bought best in _Egypt_) Saffron,

Chermes-berries, and several sorts of fruit, as Cibebs, Dates, (which

are so pliable and soft that you may pack them together in great lumps

as they do Tamarinds) Figs, Almonds, and many others which I cannot now

remember, and also several sorts of silks and _Turkish_ handkerchiefs:

But above all, fine horses, whereof they send abundance into the _Indies_

by the way of _Persia_, but more by the way of _Ormutz_, wherefore the

King of _Portugal_ received yearly a good sum of money for custom, _viz._

forty ducats for each, which the Merchants pay very freely, because that

those that import horses (as I am informed) pay but half duty for their

other goods at the custom-houses, and sell them besides with good profit.

Some of these horses are also sent (because of their beauty and goodness)

into _Syria_, _Natolia_, and to us into _Europe_, where they are sold

or presented to Princes, and other great persons of quality. They feed

their horses in these countries chiefly with barly and straw, so as it

is broke by their threshing waggons, which they hang about their heads in

sacks, as they do also about asses, rather than give it them in mangers

as we do. For want of straw they sometimes litter them with a fine loose

earth, which they afterwards throw by in heaps to make it clean again to

serve another time. When, among other Merchants, Christians arrive from

our countries at _Ormutz_, which happen’d very seldom, all those of them

that have been any ways afflicted by the _Turks_, _Arabians_, or _Jews_,

must appear before some certain officers of the King of _Portugal_,

appointed for that purpose, and make their complaints to them, of what

hath happen’d to them, or what damage they have received; and in case

they should omit any thing, they are themselves severely punish’d. If

then it appeareth, that one of them hath been cheated of his money,

immediately some Merchants of the same nation although innocent, and

knowing nothing of it, are flung into prison, where they must remain

until they have made satisfaction to the utmost farthing, and are besides

severely punish’d, for an example to others that they may take warning.

But if a Christian should be murdered, and they come to know of it, then

three or four of them, more or less, according to the manner of fact,

must suffer and lose their lives for every Christians. From thence it

cometh, when Merchants of many nations are going into a ship, in order

to go to the _Indies_, by the way of _Ormutz_, where they must land upon

penalty of confiscation of all their goods, that when first they put off,

they look strangely upon one another, and take great notice of, or mind

one another much, and say very little or nothing, not making themselves

known, fearing that something may be had against them; and this endureth

so long, until they are gone half the way, then they begin to be

acquainted. Farther I understood, that the King of _Portugal_’s governor

in the _Indies_ hath already, (to make himself strong and the more able

for a war) made several of the chiefest and powerfullest _Indians_

knights or noblemen, to the number of 5000; and hath sent many Jesuits

to reform these countries, to propagate their religion and to institute

there the _Spanish_ inquisition. The _Indians_ are lank in body, brown in

their colour, well shaped, and of a very good understanding; wherefore

persons of quality, and Merchants love to buy them, and chuse them for

their servants, being in their business very faithful, diligent and

careful, as I have known many of them. These and many more nations, as

_Turks_, _Moors_, _Armenians_, _Curters_, _Medians_, &c. which every one

of them have their peculiar language, are at _Bagdat_ in great numbers,

but chiefly the _Persians_; so when I was there, there arrived a caravan

of three hundred, with camels and horses, _&c._ with an intention to go

to _Mecca_, to give _Mahomet_ a visit, which they think, after _Hali_ and

_Omar_, who were his companions and did live in that city, to be a very

great man. These _Persians_ have a peculiar language, so much differing,

that neither _Turks_ nor _Arabians_, nor other _Oriental_ nations can

understand them, and so they are forced to make them understand their

meaning by signs or an interpreter, as well as I and other strangers.

They also have their peculiar characters. They sit well on horse-back,

and have on long and white drawers, which serve them also for boots, and

are very well furnish’d with scymeters, bows and darts: Instead of spurs,

they have, as it is the fashion in those parts, pointed irons, which are

about an inch and a half long, and are sowed to the hind part of their

shoes. They are also call’d _Red Turks_, which I believe is, because they

have behind on their turbants, red marks, as cotton ribbands, _&c._ with

red brims, whereby they are sooner discerned from other nations. They may

also be distinguish’d by their grey woollen coats, which have commonly

three pleats behind, and come hardly down to their knees. They are a

strong and valiant people, of a noble countenance and mind, very civil,

and in their dealings upright. They are very wary in their undertakings,

which you may see by this, that before they conclude a bargain, they

take up more time to consider than others do two or three, which I have

several times observed. Among other merchandizes they have delicate

tapestry of several colours of cotton-work, in which they are great

artists, and well skill’d, but as for others, as gold and silver working,

_&c._ they understand little, and a great deal less of gilding, wherefore

they take any thing that is glossy for gold. They love the Christians

that are artists and ingenious in these sorts of works, and shew them all

civilities. But as for the _Turks_, because great and bloody wars arise

often between them, they hate them very much, and call them Heretics; 1.

Because they will not esteem nor receive _Hali_ and _Omar_, which they

denominate _Caliphi_, as the greatest and highest Prophets or Legates

of God, that have, after _Mahomet_, given more certain and better laws.

Wherefore they esteem them a great deal higher; nay, worship them like

Gods. 2. Because that they as circumcised men, esteem their women to be

unclean, and reckon them to be members that are not to be saved, and

therefore exclude them out of their churches, so that they may not appear

there publickly, which by the _Persians_, according to their laws and

ordinances, after they have spoke some words after them, are received as

bless’d ones, and admitted to come to their churches. From whence arise

between these two nations great quarrels and differences sometimes, but

yet they do not fall upon one another, nor make incursions in time of

peace, so violently on the frontiers, as they do in _Hungary_; probably

that one may (because negotiation goeth farther into _Persia_, and

bringeth in great custom to the Grand Signior) trade the safer into these

parts. It is cheap and very good travelling through these countries into

the _Indies_, and the customs and duties are very easy.

Farther I understood from others, that here and there in _Persia_ live

several Christians, and that most of them are of the perswasion of

_Prester-John_, whom they call _Amma_; and which way they are brought

to it, I am thus informed, that formerly about twelve years agone, it

did happen that the King of _Persia_ made a league with _Prester-John_

against the _Turks_, which came then very hard upon him, and gave him

his hands so full, that he was forced to seek for help by strangers.

Now when _Prester-John_ thought it very inconvenient for him to make a

league with a King that was not of his religion, he sent him a message

again, that he could make no league with him, except the chiefest of

the articles were, that he and his subjects would receive his religion,

then he would not only do him all friendship that in him lay, but also

assist him with all his might and power, which at length was agreed

upon. Whereupon he did send one of his patriarchs and some of his

priests, which in process of time had this effect, that now even at this

day, there are above twenty towns in _Persia_ where the most of the

inhabitants are addicted to the religion of _Prester-John_. They have

also as I was told, several books of the holy scripture, and chiefly

among the rest, some of the epistles of St _Thomas_, which they call

_Ærtisch_. And besides that, their patriarch hath brought it to that

pass, that they are no more so zealous in their superstitions; and are

of opinion that circumcision is not necessary, and that so much the

rather, because their enemies the _Turks_ and _Jews_ have it. And for

the same reason they do not abhor the forbidden beasts, but eat pork,

_&c._ nor refuse to drink wine, and that as before said, because their

adversaries are forbid it by their law. So that the Christian faith

doth in _Persia_ encrease daily more and more, and they begin to be

christened with fire, according to their fashion, and in the name of God

the Father, Son, and Holy Ghost, whom they notwithstanding, according to

their opinion, rather believe to be a creature, than the Third Person

of the Trinity, and that he doth only proceed from the Father and not

from the Son. But that those that are Christians may be discerned, they

wear a blue cross on the inside of their left leg a little above the

knee. They also administer the sacrament of the holy supper or communion,

and give it as well to the young as to the old ones in both kinds; but

before they go to it, they must have their feet washed, wherefore there

are little rivulets led through the churches, where they sit down, and

some of the chiefest of the town come to them and wash their feet, and

when that is done, they give unto one another a kiss of love; then they

read the words of Christ’s institution, and so go to receive it; they

do not come to confession before: And they endure no images in their

churches, but instead of them, they make use of harps, pipes and other

instruments, wherewith they make music, but chiefly at the King’s court,

at _Smarcand_ (where his best Musicians are) which town, as they say,

was built by _Sem_ the son of _Noah_, and called after his name. What

else is to be said concerning the points of their religion, shall be

hereafter mentioned in the chapter of the _Abissines_.

Farther I was informed at my return, that after the decease of _Gamach_

the King of _Persia_; that had three sons and one daughter (who was

soon married to one of the chiefest of the council at court) whereof

the eldest called _Alschi_ was beheaded, because he did endeavour to

take away his father’s crown, the other two are still in being; the

youngest of them _Balthasar_ liveth in _Parsid_ a peculiar province and

town in _Persia_, which lieth on the borders of the _Indies_; and the

middlemost, called _Ismael_, was lately, after his father’s decease,

elected King, almost at the same time when the now reigning _Turkish_

Emperor _Amurathes_ came to the crown. This is still young, and of a tall

and slim body, but very manly, and full of courage, and well skill’d in

all warlike exercises, so that he dare before any of his courtiers ride

wild and unbroken horse, by them called _Æcaik_, which are not easily

mastered. They are brought to him a great way off out of the eastern

parts; they are as I am informed, of an ashen colour, only some have

white legs; in these and other exercises he hath shown his manliness from

his infancy. But when he did encrease in age and in strength, the anger

and displeasure he bore against the _Turks_ did increase also, and to

that degree, that he resolved, during his father’s life, to be revenged

of them for the wrong they had done to his ancestors. Wherefore a little

while agone, he brought together a great many men in the frontier places

to surprize the town of _Bagdet_ unawares, being one of the chiefest

that formerly had belonged to his ancestors, together with the whole

country, wherein the new Kings of _Persia_ when they first come to the

government are used to be crowned. When he was thus prepared for the

onsent, and nothing was wanting, some traitors ran away from his troops

and acquainted the Bashaw of _Bagdet_ with his design, so the Bashaw was

forced to arm himself with all speed as well as he could, that he might

be able to oppose him in his designs. But when the King’s son would have

put his intention into execution, the Bashaw fell upon him unawares with

such a number and strength, that he could not only attempt nothing, but

was beaten, and he himself taken prisoner. Besides this, the Grand _Turk_

would have had him to be beheaded, if his father had not with great

earnestness taken his part, and given him for his ransom the town _Orbs_

in _Mesopotamia_. After this, the old King had enough to do to keep his

son in safe custody, that he might not begin new alarms and wars against

the _Turks_.

Before I began my voyage in _March_, in the year 74; certain news came

to _Aleppo_ that 25000 _Turks_ were killed on the confines of _Persia_

and _Arabia_; but in what place this battle was fought, and which way it

was done I could not learn (for if they suffer any damage, they always

keep it very close and secret) nor any ways here: Wherefore the _Turks_

at that time were a great deal harder towards the Christians, so that

many suffered for their misfortunes sake: But if they had obtained the

victory, as well as not, they would not have been so silent, but would

have spread it abroad, and have related it to others that did not ask

them, with high and big words. So great an opinion have the _Turks_ of

themselves, that they really believe there is no other nation that can

conquer the world so as they, although they are not be compared with

the _Persians_, neither for strength, manliness, nor shape; so therefore

they could effect but very little against others, if it were not for

their great number, wherewith they over power them. And to speak only of

the inhabitants of this town, there are so many sick and lame people in

it, that you would admire to see so many lame and limping ones in the

streets; yet the King of _Persia_ cannot hold out the war at length,

nor keep a war at a great distance, for his revenue is not so great as

to make sufficient provision for his officers and soldiers, _&c._ to

pay them as well in time of peace as of war: For his subjects are freed

from all taxes and impositions, according to their ancient privileges

and customs. They never arm themselves for a defence, but when they are

called together by their King, to defend and protect their country, house

or land, wife and children, against the assault of an enemy.

When I was thus enquiring from one or other, and endeavouring to inform

myself and learn whether it were more commodious for us two to go by

water to _Ormutz_, or by land through _Persia_ into the _Indies_, and we

thought of nothing else but to begin our voyage daily to go farther; I

was call’d on a sudden by a letter to come away for _Aleppo_ immediately,

which troubled me very much, and that the more when I considered, that

I was past the wilderness and come into the fruitful eastern countries,

which would have been very well worth seeing. So after I had considered

a while, I agreed with my comrade that he should go on with the voyage

in hand, and that I, because besides the letter, I had others no smaller

hindrances, would go back again. So I fitted him out for his voyage with

all necessaries, so that two days after, he went with other merchants

into the ship for _Balsara_. Not long after, I had a very mournful

message, or account, that the ship, wherein he went from _Balsara_ to

_Ormutz_, was perished in a great storm near the Island _Baccharis_

in the _Persian_ sea, where they find good store of oriental pearls,

and that he and several other merchants, and rich merchants sons from

_Aleppo_ were drowned. At the same time I might have returned back again

with a great caravan to _Aleppo_ but because they took the straightest

way through great and sandy desarts, which lasted for fifty days journey

or thereabouts, where we had but two places to pay custom in, where we

could buy provision, as water and other necessaries, I resolved within

myself to go by more fruitful places, and famous towns (although I went

about) where I might see and learn something more; so I did stay in the

great _Camp_ longer until I met with some companions. In the mean time,

while I stayed there, I made my self acquainted with an eminent Merchant,

that lived in _Aleppo_, and had been several times in the _Indies_; who

told me, that the Jesuits had begun to set up a very severe inquisition

in the _Indies_; chiefly in _Goa_, where they observed diligently those

that did not take off their hats to the images (which were set up in

several streets of the town) that they might put them into prison, which

he did very much dislike, believing it to be very great idolatry.

After he had said this, he began to talk farther to me concerning

religion, and chiefly of the articles of our Christian faith; and made

me immediately (when he began to be sensible that I was of the same)

so fine a confession of his Christian faith, so plainly and with such

grounds of scripture, that I was astonished, for I could never have

believed I could have met with the fellow of him in these countries. So

he began to have a great love for me, and desired me to go along with

him, and to stay with him in his house, until I had an opportunity to

go farther, or that I might make him a companion in his voyage into the

_Indies_, that during those travels he would shew me all kindnesses he

could; nay, be as careful of me, as if I were his own son. And after

he understood that I was a Physician, he proferred of his own accord

to recommend me to the _Bashaw_, who was then sick, and his very good

friend, to be his Physician. But I having understood before, that others

that had done the same, had been but very ill rewarded for the pains and

care they had taken, and chiefly by those they did cure; I would not

undertake it, fearing I should have the same measure, and instead of a

reward have my liberty taken away from me, wherefore I thanked him for

his kindness. Had it not been for this, I should have accepted of it,

notwithstanding that they have no Apothecaries shops that are any thing

provided, but I must have bought the ingredients from one shop-keeper or

other and so collected them from several places, for I could hardly find

any thing by them, saving some strange sort of turpentine nuts, whereof

they have abundance, and they are as good, as _Pistachios_; wherefore

the inhabitants keep them by them, and eat them as we eat small nuts in

our country. I have eaten several of them, and found them of a saltish

taste and of a drying quality. These are called by the _Arabians_,

_Botn_, and by the _Persians_, _Terbaick_. I have chiefly seen two kinds

of them, the greater and the less, and so the _Arabians_ distinguish

them into _Botnquibir_ and _Sougier_. The bigger is in shape pretty

like unto the pistach nut, only it is a little rounder and shorter; the

lesser is with it’s hard shell of the bigness of a pea, and are shaped

like unto an hart, or the _Dora_, that is, the _Indian-Hart_. A great

many of them grow in _Agemia_, _Persia_, _Mesopotamia_ and _Armenia_,

&c. and grow together in clusters like Grapes as the _Pistachios_ do,

or rather the Berries of our _Turpentine-Trees_, for which they ought

to be taken; chiefly, because the trees whereon they grow, are in their

long leaves pretty like unto the _Turpentine-Tree_ whereby they are

easily distinguished from the _Pistachio-Tree_ which hath roundish ones.

This being so, I take the little one for the _Bell_, and the great one

for the _Fael_ of _Serapio_, _Avicenna_ and _Rhasis_, which (as authors

say) grow chiefly in the _Indies_: And this the rather, because authors

attribute the same virtue and operation to them. So may according to

this, chiefly the great nuts _Fael_ be taken for the fruit of the _Indian

Turpentine-Tree_, whereof _Theophrastus_ in his fourth book and chapter

five, maketh mention; all which would be too tedious to be related here

at large. Besides these nuts, the before-mentioned authors (chiefly

_Serapio_ in his 251st chapter) makes still mention of another sort

of fruit, called by him _Sel_, and by _Avicenna_, _Scal_, which are

not in hard shells, but as I saw them, quite bare, of the bigness of a

_Pistachio_-nut, and of the colour of the kernel of our _Wall-nut_; they

have a pretty bitterish taste, and sensibly sharp. I did find none of

them in these parts by the shop-keepers, but had it only after that in

the monastery of the _Minorites_ in _Jerusalem_, of one of their order,

who told me also that they did grow in these countries. Of coloquints, of

white gourd apples, still known to the people by the old name _Handhal_,

there grow so many hereabout, that they send them to _Aleppo_, and from

thence into our countries; and also the delicate round _Cyperus_ root,

by the inhabitants called _Soëdt_, whereof one may find great quantities

growing in mossy and wet grounds. I did also find by the shop-keepers,

the white seed of _Machaleb_, which are in hard shells, which are long

and pointed, and covered without with a tender skin, like unto the

_Pistachio_-nut. A great quantity of them are carried from thence into

_Syria_, and used to perfume soap-balls. The trees whereon they grow I

did not see, yet, as I am informed, they grow hereabouts, but chiefly on

the mountains that are by the way to _Persia_. They are still to this

day by the inhabitants, as by _Serapio_, call’d _Nahandt_. But although

there are several sorts of them, yet they all boil them (after they have

been steep’d for some hours in water, to get off the thin shells, as we

do with Almonds) in milk or wine into a pap, and put sugar or honey to

it, chiefly to the white ones to take away their bitterness. I found

farther a strange gum in great pieces, somewhat like unto Frankincense,

or _Ammoniacum_, which the inhabitants chew all day long instead of

_Mastich_, and they attribute the same virtues to it. Wherefore great

quantities thereof are brought thither (chiefly from _Persia_) which

they call _Taxa_, as I am informed from the Tree _Tax_, which are very

like unto _Cypresses_ in shew and bigness, only their roots are not so

long, wherefore they are the easier over-turned by the wind. According

to this, I remember of the Trees _Thuja_, whereof _Theophrastus_ maketh

mention in book v. chap. 5. and of _Thya_ of _Pliny_. I also saw without

the _Batzars_ or Exchanges, very high and big _Caper-trees_; and here

and there in the fields a peculiar sort of red-grass, like unto that of

_Babylon_, according to the description of _Dioscorides_, and hath still

retained it’s ancient _Arabian_ name _Negil_ among the inhabitants. This

hath long fibrous and yellowish roots, with many joynts, and puts out

by them yearly several buds, which grow into hard leaves, which are long

and pointed, and at each side very sharp and cutting, like unto them of

the red-grass; between them come out small stalks or holms, each whereof

hath a peculiar ear at the top coming out of it’s grass sheath, which is

long, thin, and it’s seeds grow in two rows, between small leaves, like

unto the wild _Galengal_. This doth not only grow hereabouts, but also

in several other places and provinces, where the ground is sandy, as

_Susiana_, _Persia_, &c. in great quantity, and because it is by reason

of it’s sharpness and cutting, very pernicious to beasts, as to bullocks,

horses, _&c._ so that they die of it, therefore they have or keep the

fewer of them, but instead thereof they keep buffles (which can feed upon

it easier than other beasts) to eat this grass, which maketh the buffle

very cheap in these countries, for I have seen one buy three of them for

eight ducats (_which is in our money about 48 Shillings_) that was bigger

than an _Hungarian_ bullock. Thus much I had to relate of _Bagdat_, it’s

situation, trade, and strange plants, so much as I could find and see at

that improper time.

Being that I expected daily company to go with me to _Aleppo_ again,

by the way of several towns, and not straight through the sandy

wildernesses, a _Persian_ that I got acquainted withal in the mean while

did inform me, that the Sophi, King of _Persia_, had several unicorns

at _Samarcand_, which he kept there; and also in two islands _Alc_ and

_Tylos_, which lay from _Samarcand_ nine days journey farther towards

the east, near _Spaam_, some _Griffins_ (by them called _Alera_) which

were sent him out of _Africa_ from _Prester-John_. They are a great deal

bigger and higher, have a red coloured head, a bearded bill, and a neck

over-grown with feathers, a thick body, black wings like unto an eagle,

and a long tail like a lion, and feet like a dragon, they are very eager

for flesh; while they are yet young, the King taketh them along with him,

and goeth often thither for sport and pleasures sake; but as they grow

up and strong, he hath them chained about their necks very strongly. I

did believe this the sooner[3], because he could also tell me what trees

and fruit grow there, and chiefly those whereof _Theophrastus_ maketh

mention, and out of him _Pliny_. He also gave me an account besides these

of others that grow out of _Persia_ in several places, as of the tree

_Palla_, which _Theophrastus_ and _Pliny_ mention, which the wise men

did eat in the eastern countries, and of the _Musa_ of the _Arabians_,

whereof the former bear delicate sweet-tasted, and very wholesome fruit,

by them called _Wac_, which are round, reddish, and as big as the

_Indian_ Melons. But whether this be the noble fruit _Mangas_, (whereof

_Clusius_ maketh mention in his _History_ of _Indian Plants_, which for

goodness sake is carried over sea into _Persia_) I leave to the learned

to decide. But the _Musa_ (which is as aforesaid, also common in _Syria_)

beareth a great deal smaller fruit, which is smooth, yellowish, and

bended almost like unto citruls in shape. These are also of a sweetish

taste, and therefore the pleasanter to eat; but are very unwholesome,

so that _Alexander_ the Great was forced to forbid his soldiers to eat

of them. The same _Persian_, did also inform me of the poisonous fruit

_Persea_, which is still known to them by the name of _Sepha_; which they

esteem very little; and also the _Peaches_ (called _Het_) which are not

so poisonous (as some say) as the above-mentioned; for they esteem the

kernels thereof to be good, wholesome physic. But yet that they are not

esteemed by them, the chief reason is, that they perswade themselves,

that _Nimrod_ (who was a great Magician or Necromancer) poisoned them

by his black-art, and that since that time, they could not be eaten;

wherefore they have not been esteemed ever since: This I thought

convenient to mention, rather for the sake of those, that have a mind to

travel, that if one or more of them should go into these countries, they

might have occasion to make a more accurate enquiry after these things.

CHAP. IX.

_Which way I came in my return from ~Bagdat~ through ~Assyria~, the

confines of ~Persia~, and the province of the ~Curters~, to the town

~Carcuch~, ~Capril~, &c. and at length to the river ~Tygris~, to

~Mossel~, that famous town, which was formerly call’d ~Nineveh~._

When hinder’d in my travels, for several weighty reasons, I was forced to

go back again; I look’d up my goods, as I was advised by my good friend

the Christian, whereof I made mention here before, and fitted myself for

my journey. I got for my companions three Jews, one whereof came down

the _Euphrates_ with me, the others came from _Ormutz_, for I could get

no others, to travel with me to _Aleppo_. We set out on the sixteenth of

_December_ in the year 1574, for _Carcuch_ distant six days journey, in

the confines of _Media_, on the other side of the river _Tygris_, which

is still call’d by them in their language _Hidekel_. By the way we first

saw some well-till’d fields, and above us on the river _Tygris_ some

villages, so that I could not but think I should meet with a country

that had plenty of corn, must and honey, _&c._ as it was commended by

the Arch-koob-bearer of the King of _Assyria_, and compared even with

the Land of Promise, but the farther we went, the greater grew the

wildernesses, so that we were forced to lodge all night in the fields.

The next morning there appeared a great way off more little villages

belonging to the King of _Persia_: But we went on through the desarts,

and my fellow-travellers told me that they extend themselves to _Persia_

and _Media_, where we lost our way, and came in the evening into a bog

which hindered us so much, that I, because their Sabbath began, whereon

according to their laws they must not travel, was forced to stay there

with them all night long in it, and also the next day, in great showers

of rain, not without great inconveniency and trouble. During our staying

there I look’d about me for some plants; but found none, because they did

but first begin to sprout; but in the moist places some wild Galengal

with great round roots, by the inhabitants call’d _Soëdt_, and by both

_Latins_ and _Grecians_, _Cyperus_.

The nineteenth day, after we were not without trouble, got out of the

mire, our way extended itself still farther thro’ desolate places and

desarts. I thought of _Julian_ that impious _Roman_ Emperor, and of his

army, which when it went against the _Persians_, and was very numerous,

over the river _Tygris_ near to _Ctesiphon_, he was by an ancient

_Persian_ that was a prisoner, decoy’d into these desarts, where he was

beaten and routed by the _Persians_. In this great fight when the Emperor

himself was mortally wounded, he took up, as _Nicephorus_ and _Eusebius_

say, a handful of blood and flung into the air, yielded the victory and

said, Then _Galilean_ (so he call’d Christ, in whom he at first believed,

and afterwards deny’d and persecuted) thou hast beaten and conquer’d me.

After we had lived for several days very hardly in the desarts, and spent

our time in misery, we came on the twentieth by _Scherb_, a village over

an ascent, into another more fruitful and well till’d country, situated

on the confines of _Persia_, and for the most part inhabited by them,

which we could conjecture by the common language. Now, though travelling

through the confines uses commonly to be very dangerous, yet, I thank

God, we met with none, so that we without any stop or hindrance reach’d

that night, the twenty first of _December_, to _Schilb_, a curious

village, where we rested all night and refresh’d ourselves.

From thence we went on through large and fruitful vallies, but I found

nothing (for it was but just at the beginning of ploughing time) that was

worthy to be mention’d, for the plants did but just begin to sprout; we

had by the way several villages, and so we had better opportunity to buy

provision. The twenty third at night we came to one where we could buy

near one hundred eggs for two pence.

The next day we got up early again, and saw before us the high mountain

_Tauri_, all covered with snow (which extended itself a great way from

north and west to the eastward) at a great distance. We went on a-pace,

and advanced to _Tauk_ early in good time, and before their Sabbath began

again. This town is not very strong and lieth on a plain. We went into a

camp without it, and rested there all the Sabbath. After Sun-set, when

it began to grow dark, they desired of me to light a candle. I remembred

then immediately, that they could not do it themselves, being forbid

by law, as you may find in the thirty fifth chapter of _Exodus_, where

you may see that they must kindle no fire in any of their habitations,

wherefore they furnish themselves the day before with all sorts of

provisions and necessaries, that they may not need to do any labour on

the Sabbath, and yet may not want. When these Jews say their prayers,

they use the same ceremonies as the Christians and Heathens in the

eastern parts do: For first they lift up their hands, then they bow down

forwards with their whole body, and at last they kneel down and kiss the

ground. These Jews bragged continually of their Patriarchs, and made

mention of the laws; but of the ten commandments they knew nothing,

wherefore I took an occasion to repeat them before them in the _Portugal_

language, which is very much spoke in the _Indies_, as well as I could,

and they did admire when they heard them, how I came to know them. But

when I began to speak of Christ and his offices, they burst out into such

blasphemies, that I was glad to say no more, but hold my tongue.

Not far off from _Tauk_, we saw a very strong castle, near unto a wood,

that is guarded by a _Turkish_ garrison: This is situated in the province

of the _Curters_, which beginneth there, and lieth between _Media_ and

_Mesopotamia_, all along the river _Tygris_ and reacheth to _Armenia_.

These _Curters_, which are almost all _Nestorians_, speak a peculiar

language, which was unknown to my fellow-travellers, wherefore they

could not speak to them in the _Persian_ nor _Turkish_ language, which

is spoke all along from _Bagdat_ through _Assyria_, in the confines of

two potent monarchs, to that place. We were therefore forced to desire

others that understood both languages, to be our interpreters through the

country of the _Curters_. But whether this language did run upon that

of their neighbours the _Medians_ or no, I could not certainly learn;

but yet I was inform’d that the _Parthians_, _Medes_, and _Persians_,

as peculiar nations, had their peculiar languages, as histories tell

us, and we may also perfectly see in the _Acts of the Apostles_ the

second chapter and the eight verse, where it is thus written: _And how

hear we every man in our own tongue, wherein we were born? ~Parthians~

and ~Medes~, and ~Elamites~, and the dwellers in ~Mesopotamia~, &c._

All which people almost are subject unto the Sophi, the mighty King of

_Persia_. The before-mention’d _Curters_ were formerly call’d _Carduchi_,

and afterwards also _Cardueni_ (as chiefly _Xenophon_ testifieth) have

had their peculiar policy and government. But after many changes and

wars, they are at length subdued and brought under the dominion of the

_Turkish_ Emperor, to whom they are still subject to this day, and he

hath every where his garrisons in opposition to the Sophi. But what is

farther to be said of them, chiefly concerning their religion, shall

be hereafter mention’d, when I shall give you an account among other

Christians, of those that live in the temple of mount _Calvaria_ in

_Jerusalem_.

After the Sabbath of the Jews, my companions, was over, we went on again,

and came the twenty sixth of _December_ to _Carcuck_, a glorious fine

city lying in a plain, in a very fertile country; at four miles distance

is another that lieth on an ascent, whither we also travell’d, my

companions having business in both of them, and so we spent two days in

them before we were ready to go on again.

The twenty ninth we travell’d through large and dry heaths, and came at

night to some tents, which were made of hair or hair-cloath, wrought

out of goats and asses hair, and fix’d in such an order, that they made

streets and allies like unto a market-town. In one of these we went to

lodge with these poor people, (that were white _Moors_, and like unto the

_Gypsuns_ in their shape and figure) and to stay there all night long.

But whether these people are subject to the _Turkish_ Emperor, or to the

King of _Persia_, or to any other, I could not find out by their cloaths,

because they all wear the same hereabouts, nor could I discern any thing

by their language. To us came a little after some more travellers, so

that we had hardly room to lie down in. These people were very diligent

and busy to get us some meat and drink, for the husband went soon out

of doors to gather dry boughs and stalks of herbs, which I could not

at that time discern what they were, and brought them to us to boil or

dress some meat with them. The woman was not idle neither, but brought

us milk and eggs to eat, so that we wanted for nothing; she made also

some dough for cakes, which were about a finger thick, and about the

bigness of a trencher (as is usual to do in the wilderness, and sometimes

in towns also) she laid them on hot stones and kept them a turning, and

at length she flung the ashes and embers over them, and so bak’d them

thoroughly. They were very good to eat, and very savory. This way of

baking cakes is not new, but hath been very usual among the ancients, so

we find in Scripture mention made of bread bak’d among the ashes; the

_Romans_ call’d it, _Panes Subcineritios_; and so we read in _Genesis_

the eighteenth chapter, of cakes made upon the hearth, which _Sarah_ made

in haste when the three men came to see _Abraham_.

The thirtieth we went from thence, and about noon we came to a town

call’d _Presta_, which is chiefly towards the river whereon it lieth,

very well fortify’d, but what the inhabitants call that river, I do not

remember, but according to it’s situation it must be that which _Ptolomy_

call’d _Gorgus_, which runs below into the _Tyger_. In this place they

make floats, which although they are not very big, nor have much wood in

them, yet they have abundance of bucks and goats skins blown up, hung

or fixed underneath the bottom, without doubt, by reason that they may

load the more upon them, and also because the river is rapid, that they

may have the less fear or danger. On these floats they carry several

sorts of merchandizes, but chiefly fruit, _viz._ Figs, Almonds, Cibebs,

Nuts, Corn, Wine, Soap, _&c._ a great part whereof goeth farther into the

_Indies_.