PART. II.

CHAP. I.

_How I departed from ~Aleppo~ to the famous city of ~Bir~, and how I

sailed from thence on the ~Euphrates~ to old ~Babylon~._

After I had staid a good while in _Aleppo_, and had seen and understood

the trade and merchandizes of the inhabitants, together with that of

all the other nations, _viz._ _Grecians_, _Armenians_, _Georgians_,

_Arabians_, _Persians_, and _Indians_, which come and go daily with

their caravans, and very well observed and understood their manners and

customs, and had also collected a fine parcel of foreign and undescribed

plants; I resolved to go farther eastward into _Mesopotamia_, _Assyria_,

_Babylonia_, &c. as the ancientest and most fruitful countries that ever

were, where the ancientest people, and the most potent monarchs did

inhabit. But these countries lying far off, and the way that leadeth

thither, passing through vast desarts and wildernesses, and therefore

the voyage being so much the more difficult and dangerous to attempt

and accomplish; I first look’d out for a trusty companion, to take as

my assistant, and met presently with an experienced _Dutchman_ that

had lived a great while in _Aleppo_, who granted my request (being as

desirous to go this voyage as myself) to go along with me. We agreed

presently, and began to consider which was our best way to take. But that

we being strangers, might not be taken to be vagabonds or spies (they

being very suspicious) from whence they might presently take occasion

(as the _Turks_ use to do) to lay great _Avarias_, or unjust taxes, upon

us, which the Christians that deal to these parts have often to their

great loss and damage experienced; we did consider, and found, that

the trading here was very great, so that they did not only deal from

hence into _Armenia_, _Egypt_ and _Constantinople_, (for from thence

come the caravans thro’ _Natolia_ in about a months time) but also very

much into _Persia_ and _India_: Wherefore we thought best to profess

ourselves Merchants, that so we might travel the more safely with other

Merchants in order thereto, to buy some merchandizes that would sell in

those places, and to carry them along with us. That we might put this in

execution, my formerly mentioned friend _Hans Ulrich Raft_, from _Ulm_,

took great pains to furnish me at my desire and request, with several

fit commodities for those places upon account of my patron Mr _Melchior

Manlich_, which I got pack’d up immediately to go with them to the famous

city _Bagdet_, situated upon the _Tygris_, where is a great staple and

deposition of merchandizes that are to go farther for _Persia_ and

_India_. But seeing that seldom any Merchants go from _Aleppo_ farther

into these countries, so that our habits are very rarely seen there; we

cloathed ourselves as is usual, in the common _Turkish_ habit (that every

body might not presently look upon us as strangers); first, we had long

blue _Cabans_, which are button’d before quite down, and cut out about

the neck, not unlike to those of the _Armenians_; and white _Drawers_

made of cotton that hung down to our ankles, and were drawn in and tied

about our bodies, and also shirts after the same fashion and without

collars. We also fitted ourselves with white turbants with a blue brim,

such as _Christians_ usually wear, and put on yellow shoes which were

painted, before guarded with nails, and with horse-shoes behind. Besides

this we put on a kind of a frock, made of a certain course stuff called

_Meska_ in their language, which is common among the _Moors_. They are

generally made of goats and asses hair, pretty narrow, without sleeves

and short, reaching only to our knees. But these stuffs being not all

alike, the finest thereof (chiefly that which is striped white and black)

is taken for cloaths; and the coarser for tents and portmantles, wherein

they carry their provision through the desarts, and also keep their

camels and mules meat, hanging it about their necks. This puts me in mind

of the plain cloathing which the ancient inhabitants of these countries,

chiefly the _Israelites_, when they mourned for their deceased relations,

or when they repented of their committed iniquities, and turned from

them, and prayed God to forgive them their accumulated transgressions,

used to put on, as we read in the 37th chapter of _Genesis_, where

_Jacob_ lamented the death of his son _Joseph_; and in the book of the

Prophet _Jonas_ of the _Ninevites_, who believing the Prophet’s words,

denouncing their destruction within forty days, and repenting of their

sins, put on sackcloth and prayed to God for forgiveness. The like we

read of the King and Prophet _David_, after he had numbred his people.

_Item_, in the 10th chapter of St _Luk_ and other places, that they put

on sackcloth and did repent in ashes. It is therefore very probable that

those were very like unto them that are still in use.

When we had thus accoutred ourselves for the voyage, and provided us

with all necessaries, _viz._ cloths, merchandizes, provision of biskets

and drink, and did stay only for some fellow-travellers, we were still

doubtful whether it were more convenient for us to go by land with

_caravans_, which go from hence and _Damascus_ very strong to _Bagdet_,

through great sands and desarts in fifty days, more or less, according

as the weather proveth: Or, whether we should go by water, either upon

the _Tygris_ or the _Euphrates_, there being good opportunity to go in

company with others. But it happening that we met with some _Armenian_

Merchants servants that did live at _Aleppo_, who were also provided

with goods, and had a mind to go into the same countries, we did readily

embrace this opportunity, partly because they understood the _Turkish_

and _Arabian_ languages, which two are chiefly spoken in _Syria_, and

partly because some of them had been four times already in the _Indies_;

wherefore we put our goods to theirs, and loaded a great many camels

together, to deliver them to us at _Bir_, to ship them there upon

the _Euphrates_. And that we might pass every where in the _Turkish_

dominions, we took a pass from the _Bashaw_ and _Cadi_, and so we began

our travels to _Bir_, distant three days journey, the 13th of _August_,

_Anno 1574_. By the way we were so strange to one another, that in our

new fashioned cloaths we did hardly know one another among them all.

After we had the first day a rough road, and travelled through many

desarts and uninhabited places, we reached at night a little village,

where we encamped and pitched our tents. We put all our packs in a circle

round about us, and without them our beasts (as it is usual in great

_caravans_) to defend us from the assaults of the _Moors_ in the night.

A little after midnight we heard a great _caravan_ of many camels and

asses to go by, very near to us, which after it was passed, we broke

also up and followed them; when the day-light appeared, we saw several

plow’d fields more than the day before, and also here and there in some

pleasant places many tents of the _Arabians_, which were fixed together

as it were in a camp; ranged very orderly in streets. After we had that

morning travelled very hard, so that our beasts under their heavy loads

began to be tired in the great heat, we rested behind a little chappel

to refresh ourselves and to feed our camels; in the mean time some poor

women came down from the high-lands to us to gather the dung of our

camels to burn it instead of wood, whereof they were in great want. When

the great heat was over, and we had staid there for two hours, we went

on again, and came before it was night to a little village lying in a

valley, near which upon the height, the _Arabians_ had formed a great

camp; we went up to them, and pitched our tents in the plain by them, and

kept as abovesaid a good watch. They came quickly to us, spoke kindly

to us, and their wives brought us water and good milk; but after we saw

that they were very naked and hungry, and in their shape like to our

_Gypsies_, we did not trust them at all, but kept a very good watch all

that night. These are vagabond people, that are used to idleness from

their infancy, and will rather endure hunger, heat and cold, than get

any thing by their handy-work, or till the fields, or plant garden-herbs

for their maintenance, although they might do it in several fruitful

places in their own possession. So you find here a great number of them

by the sides of these sandy desarts, that have no where any habitation,

but live in their tents like as the beasts do in caves, and go like unto

the _Gypsies_ from place to place, until they light on one, where they

may live a great while with their cattle, and when all is eat up, want

driveth them from thence to look out for another.

On the 15th early before break of day, we were up in the cool of the day,

with an intention to reach to _Bir_ that night, but our camels were grown

so faint by reason of the excessive heat and the great burthens, that

they fell down several times, wherefore we looked out for a convenient

place where we might stay all night, and found at last a village near

which we pitched our tents, eat some gourds and biskets, and so went to

rest.

Two hours before break of the day, we began our journey again, and came

early in the morning to the great river called _Euphrates_, we went over

with our goods and chattel, and fixed our tents before the town near

the river on the other side, to stay for a barge that was to come from

_Armenia_, to go from thence to _Babylon_, which is now called _Felugo_.

By the way I saw no herbs of any worth, except the _Galega_, in our

language called goats-rue, which grew plentifully on the dry heaths; and

near to the road, the first sort of _Apocynum_, by us called dogs-bane,

very like unto the great Celandine in it’s leaves and pods: I also saw

whole acres of _Turkish_ corn called _Sesamo_, and others sown all with

cotton, and also a kind of _Esula_, very full of milk, wherewith the

fallow grounds were so filled up, that at a distance, you would have

taken it for good corn. Seeing that the _Scammony_ that uses to be

brought to _Aleppo_, is wont sometime to be very sharp, therefore it

may very well be, that they adulterate it with this _Esula_. Near the

town grew abundance of _Acacia_, called _Schack_ and _Schamuck_, as is

above-mentioned, which are here in stem and fruit, greater and larger

than ever I saw any where. The town _Bir_ is situated on the other side

of the great river _Euphrates_ in _Mesopotamia_, near the high hill

_Taurus_, just like _Tripolis_ near the _Libanus_, or our _Losanna_ on

our _Alps_: It is neither big nor strong, but pretty well defended by a

castle that lyeth on a high rock above the river, not easily to be taken.

There is a very pleasant country round about it, and very fruitful,

which (chiefly on this side the river where it is plain) is very well

tilled and sown with corn, which they did just thrash out when we came,

with little waggons drawn by oxen, and here and there are very good

villages. But beyond the river it is more hilly, which kind of ground

extends it self a great way towards the east, and divideth _Armenia_

from _Mesopotamia_. It is at the top very rough and bare; nothing but

bushes and herbs to be seen there; wherefore abundance of beasts, chiefly

lambs and goats, are daily brought down, which are carried over the

_Euphrates_, and so driven to _Aleppo_ and other adjacent places. This

river where it runs by the town is about a mile broad, and so deep that

it is not easy to make a bridge over it: Yet because it hath not a swift

current in that place, it is not very dangerous to sail on it, except

where it enlargeth it self, as it doth in great desarts, or else where

it divideth it self into several branches, so that the water-men do not

know which is the best way for them to take; wherefore the Merchants

that have a mind to come quicker and with less pains to _Bagdet_ with

their merchandizes, carry them by land to _Orpha_, to the famous town of

_Carahmet_, which lyeth six days farther towards the east, on the borders

of _Assyria_ and _Media_, upon the rapid river _Tygris_, where is a great

deposition of merchandizes, that are sent from thence to _Ormutz_ and

the _Indies_. The _Euphrates_ is continually muddy, and therefore almost

not fit to be drunk except you let it stand two or three hours, until

the sand and mud is sunk down to the bottom, which sometimes is of the

thickness of an inch: So that in every house where they have no wells,

all along the river in towns and villages, they have several great pots

which they fill out of the river, and let them stand until it be settled,

but if they have occasion to drink of it before, they drink through their

towels.

During the time of our staying there they brought us several sorts of

fishes they had caught in the river to sell, and among the rest one

sort called _Geirigi_, which in their shape and scales were very like

unto _Carps_, only they were not so thick in the belly, but a great

deal longer and bigger, so that sometimes one of them did weigh three

_Rotula_’s of their weight, which is about seventeen or eighteen of our

pounds. They are very delicate and good to eat, and so cheap, that we

could buy one for one _Medin_, in our money worth about three-pence.

To catch these, our ship’s crew flung out oftentimes some pellets made

up with _Cocculus Indic._; which fruit is named by them _Doam Samec_

and presently after some of the fish flung themselves up at the top of

the water, whereupon they jumped out of the ship to catch them, and to

carry them a-shoar. I saw also a peculiar sort of vultures, which were

so tame that they did not only sit very thick upon the houses, but they

sat down in the street before all the people without any fear; they are

more of an ashen colour than ours, but for bigness, height and the rest,

exactly like unto them. Besides these there was another sort of them,

that were something bigger, and of a lighter colour than the former,

and had some black at the ends of their wings like unto our _Storks_.

They eat also carrion, and meat, and are somewhat wilder, wherefore they

may be affirmed to be the very same that _Rhasis_ called _Gyuni_, and

_Avicenna_, _Rachame_. During the time that we staid there, a _Bashaw_

was sent hither by the _Turkish Sultan_, with some hundred _Spahi_’s,

pretty well armed, for his master did intend to make war with the

_Trusci_ that so he might defend the confines of _Syria_, _Mesopotamia_,

and _Armenia_, &c. from being assaulted by them, and to keep every thing

secure. The _Trusci_ live on the mountain of _Libanus_, and pretend to

be the off-spring of those people, that under _Godfrey de Bouillon_ did

possess themselves again of the land of promise. They are since so much

encreased, that they are able to bring into the field sixty thousand,

most of which are very good gunners, which if occasion be, they can bring

together in a short time. The _Grand Signor_, seeing that they encreased

daily, so that he did fear they would be in time too great for him, to

prevent this, as then the common discourse went, and to subdue them, and

bring them under his yoke, did summon some _Bashaws_ and _Sangiacks_,

chiefly him of _Damascus_ to bring together a great army, to fall upon

them. But which way he did beat them, and how he encroached upon them, I

shall (because I did for this time, during my travels, hear no more of

it) relate more largely after my return. The _Spahi_’s which came with

the _Bashaw_, took, because they would not be idle, their diversion in

running, shooting with arrows, and in fencing, or cudgel-playing, and

sometimes the country people came in with them, and played with them, but

not in so many sorts of arms as the fencing-masters do in our country,

_viz._ with daggers, swords or halbarts, for these are not in fashion in

those countries. They take instead thereof only cudgels, with them they

approach towards one another three times, yet not with such flourishes

and neatness as our fencers do before they begin, for their long cloaths

hinder them. In their left hand they have a buckler which is about a

foot diameter round, covered with leather, and stuffed out with hair;

in their right hand they have a cudgel, wherewith they strike strait at

one another in the first bout, as the boys do in our country, but in

the second and third bout, they strike cross-ways, chiefly in the third

which is the last, which they take off cleaverly with their bucklers; and

sometime they strike at one another legs, but never to hurt one another;

when this is done, they turn back and march off. This manner of fencing

is very common in these countries.

At length after we had staid a great while, several ships did arrive from

above, and ours, for which we did stay, among them. So our patron began

to load, and to fit himself for our departure: And so did two more that

had a mind to go in company with us. One among them belonging to a _Turk_

which was laden only with corn, to carry during the scarcity, which was

occasioned by the great heat, and for want of rain to _Bagdet_. We also

bought several sorts of fruits, _viz._ _Cibebs_, _Anguria_’s, Garlick and

Onions, _&c._ and took also along with us some ground corn, as is usual

to do in such voyages, which with Rice flower is fit to make puddings, or

to bake bread of; honey and other things to serve as provision for our

ship; for we were to travel a great way through many desarts and places

not inhabited where nothing was to be had. For there are no inns upon

this river, as upon the _Rhine_ or _Danube_, where they dress victuals

for travellers against they come. And that we might have sometimes

something hot to eat, we provided ourselves with several cooking vessels,

as is usual in these cases, to dress our meat in. But the master of our

ship still wanting both men and merchandices to load his ship withal, we

were forced to stay somewhat longer, for other Merchants which came in a

little time from _Aleppo_ whereof some were _Armenians_, some _Persians_,

others from _Bagdet_ and _Balsora_, to us; with these also came into the

ship four souldiers that were listed by the _Turks_ to go to _Bagdet_,

to reinforce the confines of _Persia_: Our master also took in some of

their _Jews_, which are worse than ours, and so we were warned to have a

care of them. Besides all these we were forced to take in some of their

religious men, which had long before begged thereabout, for they commonly

live by begging, and desire you to give them something _Alla hitsi_, that

is, for God’s sake, and yet if they find an opportunity they will fall

upon you and rob you. They are very ill-favoured, idle and yet very hardy

men, that run about all countries and often do a great deal of hurt;

wherefore one must have a special care of them, chiefly upon the road.

Yet for all this they have in these countries very great privileges; they

pretend to great holiness and devotion, and pray often, and perswade

the vulgar sort of people, that God doth hear their prayers before any

others, and grants their desires, but people do not believe them so

readily now, as their ancestors have done formerly wherefore they do not

remain long in one place, that their roguery may not so much appear.

CHAP. II.

_Which way we went into the ship, and sailed to ~Racka~; and how the son

of the King of ~Arabia~ with his retinue came to our ship to demand his

customs. What else we saw by the way, and what we did suffer from the

~Arabians~ and their mendicants._

After our ship as well as the others was sufficiently loaden, and with

all necessaries provided, we went aboard, and began our voyage in the

name of God, the 30th day of _August_, _Anno 1574_ (having stay’d there

and lost seventeen days), in the evening, with an intention to go that

night three leagues farther. But two of our ships got into a branch of

the river, whereof there are several in the very beginning: Our watermen

took great pains to bring them into the right way again and stayed for

them; which retarded us so long, that we were forced to stay all night at

a market town called _Caffra_, which lieth a good league below, on the

top of a hill, where we landed.

The next morning at break of day, we got in again and in the beginning

we went on very fortunately, and began to leave by degrees on our left

hand the mountain _Taurus_, which extendeth its self eastward, and

went more to the right, through the great desarts and sandy places of

_Arabia_, where that river divideth it self into several broad branches,

that the skippers knew hardly how to steer the right way. When we went

on so, thinking of no danger, for the _Turkish_ ship was got already

very safe through one of them, the second, which we follow’d, stuck

upon the sand, by the neglect of their pilot towards the right, so that

it did not only stick there but took away the stream from us, which

turned their ship cross very violently, after such a manner, that we were

forced, because we were too nigh, and our ship was in her full running,

so that we could turn no way, to fall foul upon it. So ours drove with

the stream upon theirs with that force, that we broke the two uppermost

boards of their side; so the water ran in, and the ship sank deeper.

Our ship, although it hath received no hurt, yet did it not go on, but

stuck by the other. Whereupon we began to labour hard, remov’d the sand

below, and made a way to get clear; after we had half drawn it before the

other into the stream, the stream drove it so hard against the other,

that also a row and an half of our side-board were broken, and if it

had broken the second row quite, we had incurr’d the same mischief and

damage as they. When we were in this condition, and could not otherwise

think but that we must perish all together, yet our merciful God and Lord

did order it so, that we did not only secure the breach, but came into

the right river free and quit before the other ship, where we did land

immediately. After we had recover’d ourselves a little, we did not delay

to assist the other, but unloaded our ship to load theirs into it, and

so to land them, which we did with all speed; in the mean time appear’d

behind the trees and tamarisks at each side a good many _Arabians_, both

on horse-back and foot, and came so near, that they were not afraid to

attack our guards we had left with our goods, and to attempt to rob us.

But when they found resistance, and heard several guns discharged on

our side, they were frighted to that degree (for guns were unknown to

them) that they turned their backs and run away as hard as they could

drive. At last we attempted to draw out the ship together with some small

goods, that were still left in it, which succeeded very well, for when

we hoisted our sails and drew them on, and wrought with all our might

and strength, it yielded by degrees, so that at length we got it quite

off, and brought it a-shore. The loss of their marchandizes, altho’ it

was but small in quantity, yet it was very great in their Silk, Stuffs

of _Damasco_, Soap, Sugar, roots of _Zarneb Melchi_, which is good

for the pain in the back, as is here before mention’d, Figs and Corn,

which suffer’d very much; wherefore they begg’d of us, that we would be

pleased to stay with them, until they had dry’d their goods and mended

their ship, so that they might go along with us more safely through these

desarts, which we granted them readily. During this our stay, when we

were helping them, it fell out that I and one of my comrades were falsly

accused by some Jews, before some of their religious men, that we were

often fudling with the master of the ship, which the Jews did on purpose

to make us outlandish men hated among them, for they do according to

their law not easily admit of drinking of wine, and to disparage us; and

this his intention did succeed so well, that when their Clergymen did

understand it, they became very angry with us, took our vessel of wine,

flung it into the river, and drew in upon the land, where they let it

run out, which did not well please the Soldiers and others, wherefore

they took our part, and did give the Jews for it a very severe reprimand.

But as no good deed remaineth unrewarded, and no ill one unpunish’d, so

it happened here; for the chief of them, which was a _Moor_ and of the

order of the _Dervis_, was the next day punish’d severely for a frivolous

cause, whereof I unadvisedly was the occasion. While our goods were yet

on shore, I got towards night upon the balls to stand centinel, it being

my turn; so when I saw one with a mug full of water, I desired him to

give me some to drink, which he was willing to do, and reached me the

mug, I going to take it, trod by chance upon a fiddle of one of the

_Turks_ and broke it: Although he had great occasion to be angry with me

for this, yet (understanding that I had glue enough to mend it) he was

presently quieted, and well contented. The next morning we sat together

and mended the fiddle as well as we could; when the _Dervis_ saw us busy

about the fiddle, he was very angry that we did not help to spread out

the merchandizes, which we had done already before we began; so he took

the fiddle, broke it and flung it into the river; then he came back, and

pretended to bang us, thinking to have the same success with this as

he had with the wine. But the _Turk_ seeing this, took up a good cudgel

that was thrown up by the river, and struck him several times over his

head and limbs, that the blood ran down his ears and face, and at length

he grew so angry that he went to draw his scymeter, but before he could,

we stept in between them, got them asunder, mitigated the business, and

appeased them. So this saint of theirs looked very dismal in his long

and lank black hair, and had besides on his body here and there several

scars, _viz._ on his head and breast, and above all upon his arms, which

he had cut or burnt himself, which is usual to that order, and other

_Turks_ to do; which set often on their flesh burning and red glowing

spangs, or instead of them linen rags, about an inch thick twisted very

hard together, broad below, and pointed on the top, tapering just like

unto a pyramid, which they set on fire, and let it burn out with a great

deal of patience upon their bare skin, so long until it is quite consumed

and brought to ashes, then they tie it up with cotton; they also do the

same sometimes in rheums of the head and eyes, _&c._ to dry them up, or

to turn them, and so draw them into another place. So I have seen several

which have had at least twenty scars about them, but chiefly on their

arms, whereof some were of the bigness of a shilling, besides wounds and

scratches they had. But from whence they received this inhumane way (to

wound and torment themselves) I do not know, except they had it anciently

from the priests of _Baal_, who used to wound themselves with knives and

lances (as we read in the 18th chapter of the 3d of the _Kings_) until

the blood followed. These holy scars and tokens of their zeal, I could

soon see and observe on this _Moor_, for according to his order, which

is a very great one, he was to wear no clothes upon his body neither

winter nor summer, only a little scarf to cover his privy members withal:

Instead of them they put sheep skins about them, whereon they lie also at

night, and so they serve them for clothes, bed, and cover; and so they

pretend by their exteriour apparel and behaviour, to great vertue and

patience, as if they were dead to the world; and to a peculiar holiness,

in praying, fasting, watching, _&c._ whereas they are full of roguery

and knavery, so that you shall hardly find any like them. With this came

also several other religious men of several orders, which were all in

several distinct habits, as they are in our country; among them was a

very strong well set young man, of the order of the _Geomaliers_ as they

call it, which are rather secular than clergymen, they are generally

_Tschelebys_, that is gentlemen and rich persons, which take great

delight in travelling in their young days, under pretence of holiness,

like pilgrims, at other peoples costs, through several countries and

kingdoms, to see and learn, and to get experience. This had only a blue

coat on that covered his body, tied about with a sash, and shoes of

sheep skins, such as the _Arabians_ in the desarts use to wear. There

went along with us two more; whereof one had a great ring in each ear,

about the thickness of a finger, and so heavy that it stretched down

his ear-laps to his very shoulders. These are of the order called the

_Calendriers_, which lead a sober, and abstemious life before people,

wherefore they separate themselves from the people, and walk about like

hermits into desarts where-ever they can, to pray there ardently, and

to cry out the hours, whereof they have five every day, as the priests

do from the steeples, wherefore this man did separate himself, as often

as he had an opportunity, far from us, that the beasts could rather see

and hear him, than we that were in the ship. When he had done this, he

came to us again, and looked so devoutly as if he had been in a rapture

or extasy. The other was a _Dervis_, whereof I have made mention before,

which also kept to a very strict order, for he prayed devoutly and

ardently, chiefly at night after sun-set, at which time two or three more

used to come to him, and among them sometimes some of our Merchants; they

did stand together in a circle, and so began to pray, as I heard often,

first very lowly, then by degrees louder, but when they came to the

_Leila, Hillala_, &c. they were so loud, that you might hear them afar

of, and then they repeated only these words very often; and every time

they repeated them, they turned their head from one side to the other,

as if they looked upon one another by turns, to shew their great love

one to another, so they repeat these words very often, and every time

quicker and quicker, until they abbreviate them at last, and say only,

_Lahu Huhu_. By this pratling or jabbering and moving of their heads,

they became at length so giddy and weary, that the cold sweat ran down

them. But this their saint did not pronounce the words of their prayers

with the rest, but struck on his breast with his fist upon his heart

which gave instead thereof so strange a tune, as if he had been hallow

within, much like unto the noise that a turky-cock uses to make when he

is very angry, so that it would have frighted any man, chiefly if he had

been alone with him; and he would, with his terrible face, rather have

taken him to be an apparition than a man. These above-mentioned words he

repeateth so often, and so long, until he fainteth away and falls down,

and there he lieth as if he were dead. Then the others cover him, let

him lie and go their ways. After he hath lain thus a good while as if

he had been ravish’d in his prayers, or had seen a peculiar vision, he

cometh to himself, riseth and appeareth again. All these saints, although

they practice their religion after a peculiar manner, which according

to their opinion, is quite surpassing that which is prescribed in their

law, to move the people the sooner (regarding their severity in living,

their great patience and frequent extasies) to believe them, that they

under pretence of piety, may go on in their hoggishness, uncleanness and

robberies, as they do, without any controuling: Yet because their idle

hypocrisy, and great rogueries do daily appear more plainly, not without

great damage to the country, therefore they are no more in so great

esteem, nor have so much given them as formerly. Concerning their strange

way of praying, chiefly that of the _Moors_, their own people have often

told me, that because such a devotee changed his natural voice given him

by God, into an unnatural one, therefore he ought rather to be accounted

a beast than a man, and consequently much less ought to be esteemed a

divine. Thus much I thought convenient to relate here of their Mendicants

that travelled with us, and now I come to my former purpose again.

After we had spent four days in drying our merchandizes, and in mending

our ships, we did load them again, and so set out the next Friday, being

the third of _September_ about noon. All that day we saw nothing but

bushes on both sides of the river, wherein were several wild beasts,

but above all wild boars, till night, when we came in sight of a little

village about two or three miles distant upon the ascent on our left

hand, where we landed and staid all night. In that place I found nothing

but a bastard camel’s hay, which was like unto the true one, but without

any virtue in it.

The next day our navigation proceeded very well, and at noon we came to

a strong cittadel call’d _Galantza_, which is situated at this side of

the river, on a hill belonging to the king of _Arabia_, with whom the

_Turkish_ emperor, as I was informed, and could understand, that did not

know their language well, had long and heavy wars; and could have done

him, because he could not follow him through the desarts for want of

water and provisions, no great hurt, if the King’s eldest son had not

put himself into this castle, believing that he might be secure there

from any assault from without, wherein he was mightily mistaken. For

after the _Sultan_ did understand that he was there, he was resolved

to take it notwithstanding all difficulties. And therefore he summoned

all his forces together in the year 1570, and did assault it in three

places at the same time, so long and so often, until at length he took

it by storm, and so he made the King’s son his prisoner, and carried

him to _Constantinople_, where he had, as they say, his head cut off

the following year. This castle, being surrounded with strong walls,

and having within a very high and large tower, is still, according to

my apprehension, very strong, but yet it lieth in ruins, and the three

open places remain unrepaired. At night we landed in a small island,

which was not inhabited, and in the middle of the river we did not

question but we were there very well secured from the _Arabians_, and yet

notwithstanding, as soon as we had supp’d, and began to go rest, some of

them came creeping along to us about midnight, rather to visit our goods

than us. But because they durst not venture to go to our ships, without

great danger of being discovered by our watch, they did visit them that

rested on shoar, and had taken something considerable from them, if they

had not been discovered immediately by them, and had retaken from them

again that which they could not so readily carry over the river.

The fifth day of _September_, some _Arabians_ appeared on shoar early in

the morning; by and by we saw more at a great distance upon the height,

and some squadrons of horse of forty or fifty strong, ride about; from

whence we concluded that the King’s camp was not far off, which proved

to be true. For about noon after we landed, the King’s youngest son came

riding to us on a high black horse, with a retinue of about one hundred

men, most of which had bows and long pikes made of reed. He was but

young, about twenty-four or twenty-five years old, of a brownish colour,

and had a white turbant on his head made of cotton, one end whereof

hung down behind about a span long, according to their usual custom.

He had on a long gown made of ordinary sheeps skins with the wooll on

them, which hung down to his ankles, and so had all his courtiers, which

were in their common dress so like unto one another, that one could not

have discerned them, if his had not been edged with some gold lists,

as we use to edge childrens coats in our country, about the neck and

sleeves, and had not had long sleeves, whereon were some escutcheons to

be seen. Because custom is due to the King of _Arabia_, by reason of

the _Euphrates_, therefore this young prince came to demand and take

it; so he went into the river, and rode first to the _Turkish_ ship, to

see what goods they carried, but finding nothing but corn therein he

did not stay long there, but came to ours, his servants that were on

purpose ordered for that, helped him soon up into it, and placed him

in the middle of it on a bale, but they themselves went about from one

Merchant to another, to visit their goods, and did open now and then a

chest or a bale, and took some out of them more or less, according as

they liked them, so that it was a great while before they came about

from Merchant to Merchant. In the mean while, they brought also into

the ship a young Prince, perhaps two years old, which one carried before

him on horse back after his father. He had nothing on but only a cotton

shirt, and rings about his neck, wrists and legs, made of fine _Arabian_

gold. At length his servants came to me and my comrades into the poop of

the ship; but before we began to shew them any of our goods, they saw my

gun that was inlaid with ivory, which they took immediately, to shew it

to their master, with a great deal of admiration, being such a one as

they had never seen their life before. The King took it presently into

his hands, and was mighty well pleased with it, and said that it was

outlandish-work made by the _Franks_, (by which name they call outlandish

men, _French_, _German_, _Italian_, &c. because they know no divisions

or distinctions of our country,) so we went both to him, and acquainted

him that we were lately come from those countries, with an intention

to go into the _Indies_. After the King understood this, he spoke very

kindly to us, and bid his man to leave off and to search no more our

goods, and enquired after several other things, and at length he told

my comrade that he thought he had seen him before; which was very true,

for when my comrade lived at _Aleppo_, where he had drove the Goldsmiths

trade for a great while, he and others were sent to the King, who was

then at a little distance from _Aleppo_, by the Consul of _Venice_, to

present him in his name, with several presents, whereof some were costly

and rich wrought clothes, when they came to him, and presented them to

him, he took them with a great deal of kindness, and treated them very

honourably, and shewed them several sorts of sport, as jumping, running,

_&c._ that they might see that he had a great many brave and handy

soldiers; and did dispatch them very generously again, and promised them,

as my friend told me, all kindnesses, chiefly to their masters, saying,

that if they should have occasion to make use of him against the _Turks_,

he would faithfully assist them, and that he did not doubt at all, if

they should agree together, but they might go a great way with him in

these countries; nay, advance farther upon the _Turk_ in a short time,

even to _Constantinople_ itself. After the before-mentioned discourse,

the King went to his tents that were pitched on a plain by a hill, within

two miles of us, and took some of our company along with him to discourse

his father about our concerns. I would willingly have presented the King

with my gun, altho’ we had to travel through many deserts, and perhaps he

would have been pleased with it, but durst not do it before the _Turkish_

Soldiers, Mendicants and Jews, for I feared, that they would betray it,

and accuse me before the _Bashaw_ and _Cadi_’s, which soon would have

made me punishable, altho’ innocent, as they use to do to strangers; nay,

sometimes those of their own nation; and besides, I did remember, that

when the King was encamped near _Aleppo_, and some of his men did daily

come into the town to buy provision, cloaths and other things, that then

it was strictly forbidden to sell them any arms, bows or pikes to take

along with them into the desarts. After we had staid for our friends a

great while, they came so late to us, that we were hindred from going

any farther that day, for it began to be late, and so we staid there all

night. They told us, that the King, after they had told him that we came

from _Aleppo_, would not believe them, but thought rather we came from

_Saphet_, which town is within a day’s journey of _Sidon_, which the

_Sultan_ had taken from him a little while before, that he might have

a pretence to arrest us and our goods; and that he did so obstinately

persist in this opinion, that they did really fear he would have sent

some of his men with one of us to _Aleppo_, to know the certainty

thereof, until they plainly demonstrated to him by their letters from

whence they came; whereupon he gave them liberty to go on in their

journey. But I understood afterwards, that it was only to press something

more out of them, as he really did, for they were forced to give him some

knives tip’d with silver that came from _Damascus_, and also some damasks.

On the sixth of _September_ we were up early, and passed between great

wildernesses, wherein were abundance of wild boars, that appeared

sometimes in great herds: These wildernesses continued so long, that we

saw nothing else the whole day but woods, ’till in the evening we came

to _Cala_, a village and castle on this side of the river, which is

no more but two-days journey from _Aleppo_, situated in a plain; from

whence you may conjecture how crooked the river is hitherto. This castle

belongeth to a great Bashaw, called _John Rolandt_, and also the fine

house at _Aleppo_, as is before-mentioned. He hath very great revenues

and sixty sons: Six or seven of them are Sangiacks, whereof some live at

the Sultan’s court. Beyond this castle on the other side of the river, we

lodged all night in the wilderness, which continued so far, that we saw

nothing all the next day long, but only here and there a little cottage

of the _Moors_, which generally are built upon four sticks, and covered

with bushes: Within them there are so many children, that I have often

admired at the number of them. They run in their first infancy to the

river, and learn to swim so well, that they undertake without any fear

to swim over the broad river. When we went by, the _Moors_ saluted us

very often, if the distance did not hinder them, and that chiefly to

learn of us where about their King was in the country. For they have so

great a respect for their King, altho’ they are an idle and vagabond

people, and unanimously shew him such obedience, as no other nation

doth to their superiors; which also you may guess by this, that if any

outlandish man hath a mind to get safely through the wilderness, or to

see their King, let him but cloath himself in their habit, and take a

_Moor_ along with him to shew him the way, and to be his interpreter,

they will readily tell him the way to go to him; or when they see that

he hath one of their own nation with him, they let him pass without any

molestation or examination. So that those that are slaves on the confines

of _Arabia_, might easily free themselves without any trouble or danger.

Their wives did also often come to us, and brought us milk in great flat

dishes, which they shewed us at a distance to sell; wherefore we did

land sometimes and received it, and gave them biskets for it, for they

have great want of corn, so that this interchanging pleased us both. We

used to break biskets into this milk, and so to eat it for dinner or

supper, and sometimes if it was too thick, or rather too little of it,

that it might go the farther, we used to temper or mix it with water.

They have also sometimes put it into oblong linen sacks, which it did

hardly penetrate, and let it hang in the ship for two or three days,

until it did curdle and came to be in curds, and so it used to serve us

with biskets and onions for breakfast or for supper. When we did land and

had time to spare, I used to look about me for some strange plants, and

among the rest, I found a peculiar _Schœnanthum_, which was very like in

figure unto the true one, but had not it’s virtues, and the first kind

of _Rhannus_ of _Carolus Clusius_, with fat leaves like unto housleek.

I found also goats rue, and a strange sort of willows, which still are

called by the inhabitants by their old name _Garb_. There also were

abundance of tamarisks; they were as big and high as our cherry or plum

trees, wherefore these trees are discerned soon at a distance by their

height; they have very tender leaves, and long purple coloured tops, as

you see in the second kind of our tamarisks, so that between them and

ours, there is no great matter of difference, but only in bigness and

fruit, whereof I found none at that time. The _Moors_ feed their cattle

for the most part, with those bushes that grow at the river side; for

in the wilderness and desarts, where the ground is very sandy, lean and

barren, there is but little grass or tilled ground, which occasioneth

the great scarcity of bread among them, so that often they see none in

a great while, and are forced to eat their other food, as fish, flesh,

cheese and milk, which they take from goats, sheep, camels, _&c._ without

bread; so that these poor people make a shift with a mean diet; and yet

they are strong and in good health, and live to a good age. At night

before it was dark, I saw another fortification at the other side in

_Mesopotamia_, on a high hill called _Jabar_, belonging to the King of

_Arabia_, which is very large, and hath several towers in the wall, so

that as far as I could see, it was very like to that of _Aleppo_. We

staid all night on this side of it, in an island where we had been robb’d

again, if we had not kept a good watch so as to perceive the thieves,

and to let off several guns; yet this we did not to hurt, but only to

frighten them; for if we should have kill’d or wounded any of them, they

would have fetch’d immediately some, according as they are in strength,

it may be a thousand together to revenge their friend to fall upon us,

to beat us and to plunder us, whereof they are very eager, and to take

all we had. The same happened to us the next day in another uninhabited

island of the river, where we would dress no victuals that night, that

they might not spy us by our fire, to find us out and to fall upon us.

For when we expected to keep ourselves thus quiet, and to rest in good

tranquillity, they did not miss us, but came to us in a greater body than

before, and that so near, that we could not only hear them, but they

began to talk with us. But when we saw that they were in earnest, we

rouzed up ourselves, and got into order, and spoke big to them, and bid

them to offer no violence to us, for if they did, they would find greater

resistance than they expected. But when we saw that this our exhortation

would do no good, we were forced again to have recourse to our guns,

whereof we had but three, which we let go off, which frightened them in

such a manner, for they are not used to them, that they ran away and left

us in quietness. But it is no wonder that the _Arabians_ are so restless,

for they are full of want and nakedness, have not to fill their belly,

nor to cover their body withal; besides, they have nothing else to do,

and are used to idleness from their very infancy, and then because they

hate to work, they are forced to wander like vagabonds from one place to

another. And (if they will maintain themselves and theirs) to seek their

livelihood from those that travel through their country. So several times

there came two, three, or four together, swimming through the river, were

it never so broad or deep, to our ship, whereof some were black and some

brown, which came as naked into our ship as ever they were born into the

world, to beg a piece of bread; to each of them we gave as much as would

content them, so they went sometimes for a whole league along with us;

and when they had eaten the bread and thanked us, they jumped into the

river again and swam away. Besides these we saw daily as we went along,

many more swim over the river, which commonly had some bucks-skins blown

up, whereon they tried to get over the easier, for the river is so broad,

that it is not easy to make a bridge over it, neither did I find any.

They take their shirts (for besides them they wear no other cloaths) tie

them with their leathern girdles about their heads, and therein stick

their daggers (which are pretty broad and bended like unto a scythe)

which hang down by their temples.

The ninth day our voyage went on again chearfully, and we came pretty

near the town _Racka_, which belongeth to the _Turkish_ Emperor, but it

did not continue so long, for before we had dined and eaten a few fruit,

_viz._ Cibels, Anguries, and _Indian_ Musk-melons, to refresh ourselves

in the great heat, we incurr’d greater danger again than that we were

in before, for our ship, which was a great deal bigger than either of

the two, did strike upon the sand so severely, that we could not bring

her off again without assistance of others, as we had done several times

before, nor bring her into the right way again. So we were forced to

desire the _Arabians_ our antagonists, which stood and looked upon us,

rather rejoicing at our misfortunes, than pitying us, to assist us, which

at length we did obtain, and so they came to help us: But because they

had their daggers, and great cudgels, which they use to wear with them,

we durst not trust them, but were forced to leave a small guard in the

ship, but the rest of us helped them with all our force and strength, but

we could not stir her, so that they went away twice and left us. At last

we concluded, that we had no better way than to unload our ship, yet we

durst not do it for fear of the _Arabians_, nor venture our merchandizes;

so we resolved to draw her out another way, wherefore we desired the

_Arabians_ a third time to assist us, and if they were in earnest to

help us, we begged of them to lay down their arms, which at length, upon

our promising them a good reward, they did. When they came we took also

our guard to our assistance, set all hands at work, and with hard labour

we brought it at length into the right stream again, so we paid the

_Arabians_ and went on, and came that same night to _Racka_.

CHAP. III.

_Of the city of ~Racka~, and of it’s situation, and also something of the

departure of the King of ~Arabia~, and of his league with the ~Turkish~

Emperor, and also of the trouble we had with the ~Custom-house Officer~

or ~Publican~._

_Racka_, a town of _Mesopotamia_, is situated in the desarts of _Arabia_

upon the great river _Euphrates_, between two ascents, so that you cannot

see any thing of it before you can come near it. There is a castle by

it, which is given to a _Sangiack_ by the _Turkish_ Emperor to keep it

with 1200 _Spahi_’s. This town is pitifully built, and not well guarded

with walls; it having been built after the Desolation of the old town,

which was situated on the hight, as one may see still by the old wall,

and other arches and pillars. Among the rest there is yet standing a

very ancient high building, which is still very strong, and looketh

very great, altho’ it is much decay’d and run to ruin, and such as one

shall rarely see, so that one may conjecture, that it hath perhaps been

formerly the seat and habitation of their Kings or Magistrates. Between

the new and old city lieth a castle, which is also old and pretty strong,

where is kept a _Turkish_ garrison, it being on the confines or limits of

_Arabia_ and _Persia_, &c. to defend them and all the country from danger

and incursions. The old town is besides this quite demolish’d, and even

with the ground, so that here is no convenient place where the _Turks_

can exercise themselves in running, cudgel-playing, _&c._ but this, where

I have often sat upon the ruin’d walls, and look’d upon them when they

were a playing. To the Desolation of this town have very much contributed

the _Tartars_, under their King _Haalono_, who took it in the year of our

Lord, 1260, and not long after the town and castle of _Aleppo_, with the

help of _Ayton_ King of _Armenia_. Some will have this to be the town of

_Rhagos_, which is also called _Edessa_, whither the ancient and pious

_Tobias_ did send his son from _Nineveh_ to his friend _Gabel_, to fetch

the money from him which he had lent him: But because this lies a day’s

journey farther from the river _Euphrates_, therefore it cannot be the

same.

After we had landed there, the receiver of the custom came on horseback

to the shoar, and desired the master of the _Turkish_ ship to deliver his

arms, lances, and bows, who absolutely deny’d it, seeing that it never

had been a custom before; whereupon they fell about this into such a hot

dispute, that they began to draw upon one another, and had not we timely

put in between them, it would have caused a great tumult. The reason

why this man behaved himself so strangely, was, because we did not go

with our goods to _Carahemit_, which town is distant four days journey,

and situated on the rapid river _Tygris_, to have laid there upon that

river, where he would have received a great deal more custom, that also

belonging to him. But the _Turk_ not mattering him, having nothing in

but corn, which he would not carry, he let him alone, and came to us as

strangers, thinking to make up his loss from us, and to frighten us out

of it. He staid all night in the ship, and lay between us, fearing that

we should hide some goods from him; and sometimes he came upon us with

big words, saying, _Seeing that it was not allow’d to us outlandish men

to travel in these parts, therefore he could not but take us to be spies,

that came to discover, rather than for any thing else, wherefore he had

reason enough to take our goods in arrest, and send us two spies as to

~Constantinople~, to make us slaves to his master the Great Sultan._ After

we had heard this his unreasonable discourse, and were also sensible of

his intention to cheat us, we were not presently frighten’d, but drew out

our pass we had from the Bashaw and Cadi of _Aleppo_, and shew’d it to

him. He look’d it over, and after he understood that he durst not very

well act against it, he went away from us with a deal of indignation,

and immediately he began to quarrel with all the Merchants of the two

ships, and desired of them an unreasonable sum to pay him as toll,

whereof they complain’d heavily; but he went on, and would accept of no

reasonable conditions, but took away our rowers from our ships, to hinder

us from going away, to squeeze us the more. But the Merchants, altho’

they saw his earnestness, they did not matter it, but sent on the 11th

of _September_ one of them with a _Moor_ to _Carahemit_, to the Great

Bashaw, which was the son of _Mahomet Bassa_, to complain to him of these

impositions and extortions. When the toll-keeper did understand this,

he follow’d them with his son immediately. But because he did not find

the Bashaw, who was then in another place, call’d _Giselet_, whither

our friend was forced to follow him three days journey from thence, he

return’d again immediately. Although he did not speak with the Bashaw,

yet he falsly told us, that it was the Bashaw’s order that we should

pay him ten ducats _per cent._ Notwithstanding that, ours did not know

any thing, yet they would not trust him, but had carry’d the best and

greatest part of their goods out, before he came into the ship to search,

and also some thereof they bury’d in the sand by night, where the _Turks_

and _Moors_ went over by day-light, and yet they could find none of

these hidden goods. The next morning early the Publican came with his

crue, and search’d every thing with a great deal of care, as if he had

a peculiar command for it, but did not find any thing near, as you may

think, what he expected. When he was thus very busy in exercising his

office, our friend came in at last, and told us, that the Bashaw was very

much displeased that the Publican did deal so unjustly with us, contrary

to the orders and law of his master, the Grand Signior, and did keep us

so long, and hinder us in our navigation. Wherefore he had writ to the

Sangiack in our behalf, and ordered him on pain of death, to take all

care that we might not be detain’d any longer, but to take the Publican

prisoner, and to send him to _Constantinople_, to have him try’d at the

court kept for that purpose every fifteenth day, and that he feared very

much, that he would pay for this his misdemeanor with his life.

In the mean time we were thus detained prisoners on the rivers of

_Babylon_, expecting with a deal of patience the time of our deliverance,

it happened, that the King of _Arabia_ broke up with his retinue from

here-abouts on the 21st of day of _September_, and travelled towards

the south in great numbers, to find better pastures for his beasts, as

horses, asses, and camels, that they might the better subsist; for in

these places there are not so many villages, towns and market-towns,

where they might have their continual abode. Neither do they love farming

nor trading, but are contented, if they have a great flock of cattle, and

good store of grass for them, that they may keep them. So if they come

to a rivulet, where a little herbage or grass groweth, they immediately

erect their tents there, to stay there till want forceth them to remove,

and to look out for another place. When they break up, they take along

with them man, maid, beasts and all their whole substance, as I did

see them remove at this very time, and come towards this town in great

numbers, so that the _Turks_ kept their gates shut up for four days,

until they were all passed by. On horseback they are armed with darts and

bows, _&c._ and also if they ride on camels, whereof they have very a

great number, chiefly when the King is moving from one place to another,

as some of them did relate to me, where generally are employed 150000. I

myself have once seen at one time together about the number of 3 or 4000

camels. They are strong and hardy creatures, fit to carry heavy burthens,

and also to subsist without drinking in the greatest heats for three days

together. They stale out between their hind legs, so that those that go

in caravans behind them must have a great care, that they be not hit by

them, and so become all bedaubed. Their horses are very noble, neat, and

fit for business; they seldom feed them more than once a day, although

they ride them very hard all day long through the wildernesses. They

commonly cut off all the hair from their mains and tail, so that their

tails remain very naked, and look something like the tail of a lion. They

put their wives on littler asses, and also upon high camels with their

children, three or four of them together in boxes, as it is the fashion

in these countries. They are of a brown colour like unto our Gypsies,

and almost the fourth part of them black, which difference of colour

proceedeth from their travelling up and down to places where blacks are,

and sometimes leaving their own there, and taking blacks in the room of

them. The King of _Arabia_ is always encamped in the fields, and never

cometh into a place that is shut up or enclosed; and this the less now,

after the mischance of losing his son that retired into one, happened; so

he goeth from place to place like unto the _Tartars_, so that often it is

not known where he is. In the summer-time he goeth farther to the north,

and in winter to the south, to avoid both the heat and cold, and to have

better subsistance and provision for himself, his men, and cattle. So

it hath happened several times, that the _Arabians_ in their march have

come too near the _Turks_ dominions, and the _Turks_ again to his, from

whence arose between these two great Princes such differences, that they

are come to great and bloody wars. And yet for all this, as I am credibly

informed, they have now both made a peculiar league and contract between

them, wherein it is agreed that if the Grand _Turk_ should go to a war

with his neighbours, then the _Arabian_ King will assist and defend him,

wherefore the Grand Signior writes to him as his cousin and good friend,

and is to pay him the sum of 60000 ducats yearly as his certain salary or

retaining fee. And besides all this, the Sultan sends to the new King of

_Arabia_ after the decease of the old one, a standard with his coat of

arms in it, which together with other presents he sends him with usual

ceremonies, to congratulate him on his happy coming to the throne, and to

renew and confirm their alliances. Their religion doth contribute not a

small matter to this, which (together with all their ceremonies, and all

other points) is the same almost they profess in both nations: And they

take as many wives as the _Turks_ do, neither do they extol or magnify

one before the other, because they come from better parents, being they

buy them all from them. And therefore none of them are excused, because

she cometh from a greater extraction, from doing the family-business, nor

hath a poor one more put upon her because she came from mean extraction.

So one of the King of _Arabia_’s wives is a daughter of a man that keeps

a sawing-mill at _Racka_, which by him (although of mean extraction) is

as much respected as any of the rest. Her father and brothers are very

good people; they came very often to us, and shewed great compassion,

for that we were so abused by the Publican. His mill is not drawn by

horses as ours are, nor by water (for they know nothing of that) but two

of them cut the wood with great hand-labour. During our staying there

a young _Arabian_ gentleman, nearly related to the King of _Arabia_,

came very often to us to the water-side, who was always accompanied with

twenty servants with bows and darts; he had a delicate white turbant on,

and a long violet coloured caban made of wool, but his servants went

pretty bare, for some of them wore black caps and long indico coloured

shirts with wide sleeves, which they girt up with broad leathern girdles,

wherein stuck bended daggers or bayonets, as it is their usual custom. It

once happened, that some of us being upon the high town-walls together,

from whence we had a pleasant prospect down into the valley to the great

river _Euphrates_, this same gentleman came to us again, and seated

himself with his retinue overagainst us, and presented us with some dried

Cicer Pease (whereof I have made mention before) and some Cibebs mixed

together, which we thankfully received; and to shew our thankfulness, we

presented him again with some Almonds, Figs, Nuts, and some very good

sweat-meats we had brought with us from _Aleppo_, which he also received

very kindly. So we all began to eat each of us part of his present,

and drunk with it some water of the _Euphrates_. After we had eat them

all, and we thought the time to be long, he beckon’d to one of his

Musicians, and bid him to divert us with his instrument, which he pulled

out presently (which about the neck looked very like unto a cittern) and

we expected to hear some rarity, but when I looked upon it, and saw it

had but one string that was as big as a cord of their bows, he began to

play some of their tunes, but with what art and dexterity you may easily

fancy. He did this for almost two hours, and according to his opinion

very harmoniously, but we thought the time so long, that we were very

glad when he had done.

About the river I found that sort of _Acacia_ that beareth roundish and

brown-coloured pods, called _Schock_ and _Scamuth_ by the _Arabians_:

Some thorns called _Algul_, whereon the Manna falleth, chiefly in the

county of _Corascen_, as _Avicenna_ tells us. _Chamesyces_, some strange

kinds of mosses, which are very much differing in bigness: Among the

rest I saw the low prickly herb, by some esteemed to be the _Tragun_

of _Dioscorides_. Below, close to the river, I found the _Herba Sacra_

of _Dioscorides_, which the learned _Carolus Clusius_ hath accurately

described in his _History of Outlandish Plants_, book ii. chap. 45.

and just by these, more strange ones, chiefly a delicate one growing

plentifully there in the sand, which had from five to eight tender

stalks, which spread themselves into others that were very full of

joints, so that it crept rather on the ground than grew up; by each

of them stood three or four roundish Marjoram or _Origanum_ leaves

together, and above between them some star like white flowers, with six

pointed leaves like unto our _Ornithogalum_, each of them on a peculiar

foot-stalk, the seeds thereof I have not seen, but the roots are small

and fibrous, which together with their small bitterness have a pretty

exsiccating quality; and so in this respect are very like unto the

_Polycemon_ of _Dioscorides_, but whether it be the same or no, I leave

the learned to decide. Besides those before as we came down the river, I

saw a great many large Tamarisk trees, and abundance of a certain kind

of _Agnus Castus_, almost like unto the other, only a great deal less,

and it had no more but three strong Claver leaves; but above all the

_Galega_, called Goats-rue in our language, which in these parts groweth

very high, and in so great plenty, that on the river-side I could see

nothing but this for several miles together.

CHAP. IV.

_Of the Inhabitants of the mountains, and the great wilderness we came

through to ~Deer~: Of their ancient origination, and miserable and

laborious livelihood._

Upon this good and severe command of the _Bashaw_, son of _Mahomet

Bashaw_, we were acquitted of our long arrest, and went away about noon

on the 27th of _September_; we went again from thence through such great

desarts, that for some days we saw nothing worth relating, but here

and there little huts made of some erected boughs, and covered with

some bushes, wherein the _Moors_ with their families live, to secure

themselves from the great heat, rain and dews that are in these parts

most violent, so that I admired how these miserable people could maintain

themselves and so many children in these dry and sandy places where

nothing was to be had. Wherefore these poor people are very naked, and so

hungry that many of them if they saw us afar off, would fling themselves

into the great river, and swim to us to fetch a piece of bread. And

when we flung at them whole handfulls, they would snap at it just like

hungry fish or ducks, and eat it: Others did gather it and put it into

the crown which they make neatly of their sheets on the top of their

heads, and so swim away with it. After these sandy desarts had continued

a great while, we came at length out of them between high, rough and

bare hills, which were so barren that there was to be seen neither

plough-lands nor meadows, neither house nor stick, neither high-way nor

footh-path, wherefore those people that live there, have no houses, but

caves and tents, as they have in the great desarts, where because of the

great heat and dryness, the soil is so barren, that they cannot subsist

in a place for any considerable time, nor have villages or certain

habitations: Wherefore they wander up and down, fall upon the caravans

and plunder them, and make what shift they can to get a livelihood. These

mountains, as I am informed, reach to the river _Jordan_, the _Dead_ and

the _Red-Seas_, &c. wherein are situated mount _Sinai_, _Horeb_, &c.

and the town _Petra_, which by the prophet _Isaiah_ is called _Petra

of the Desarts_. The _Arabians_ that live in these desarts, and round

about them, are extraordinary marks-men for bows and arrows, and to

fling darts which are made of canes: They are a very numerous people,

and go out in great parties every where almost: They are a very ancient

nation, and come from the sons of _Ishmael_, but chiefly from his eldest

son _Nebajoth_, and were anciently called the war-like _Nabathees_, and

their country, the land or province of the _Nabathees_, which _Josephus_

testifieth in _Book_ i. _Chap._ 21. where he says, that the twelve sons

of _Ishmael_, which he had by an _Egyptian_ wife, (his mother _Agar_,

from whom they were called _Agarens_, as you may see in the first of the

_Chronicles_ and the sixth verse, being also of the same country,) were

possessed of all the country between the _Euphrates_ and the _Red-Seas_,

and called it the province of the _Nabathees_. The _Midianites_ that

bought _Joseph_ of his brethren, and carried him into _Egypt_, may also

be reckoned among these. This same country is also chiefly by _Pliny_

(because thereabout are no other habitations, but tents, wherein the

inhabitants, live) called _Scenitis_. From this we may conclude that the

prophet _Isaiah_ in his 60th Chapter, and _David_ in the 120th _Psalm_

did speak of them, when chiefly the latter maketh mention of the tents

of _Kedar_, whereby he understands a country that is inhabited by such

a nation, as liveth in tents, and is derived from _Kedar_ the son of

_Ishmael_, whom his father _Abraham_, as a strange child born by his maid

_Agar_, did thrust out together with his mother into the desarts; his

words are these, _Wo is me, that I sojourn in ~Mesheck~, that I dwell in

the tents, of Kedar._ In our times these and other nations are called

the _Saracens_, which have very much encreased under _Mahomet_ (who by

his Mother was an _Ishmaelite_) and did spread very much; and so they

were in _David_’s time a very strong nation, wherefore he prayeth very

earnestly in his 83d _Psalm_, that God would punish and slay and disperse

them, as enemies of his holy church. But that I may come to our former

Intention again, here the _Arabians_ again asked us very often, where

their King was at that time, so that our master had business enough to

answer them; whereby you may observe what great respect and love they

have for their King. But that they might not altogether look upon us

as outlandish men, nor presently discern us to be strangers, we did

sometimes when there was occasion for it, change our turbants, and let

one end thereof according to their fashion hang down, which they do to

make themselves a shade against the heat, that is very cruel in these

countries. But yet if any body, be he who he will, doth enquire after

their King, and wants to come before him, to present him with a suit of

cloaths, _&c._ or to desire a pass from him, or if one should go about

to hire one of them, to shew him the way to a certain place, or through

their country which he may do for a very small price, he would soon find

one or other that would be ready to do it; but among the _Turks_ there

is no such obedience; for if you should desire any thing of them to do

in the name of their _Sultan_, they are not willing to do it, except

it would redound to their great profit. Wherefore a _Turkish_ guide to

conduct you would cost you a great deal more than one of them. Besides,

they also remember their master daily, and hardly speak of any thing

but of him, his great riches, _&c._ but with such pride and greatness,

chiefly when they speak of his powerfulness, and enlarging of his

kingdom, as if some share of these were belonging to them, and that they

must be respected for it. In this navigation through the great desarts,

we two did not spend much, because the towns were at so great a distance

from one another that we could not reach them, to provide our selves

daily necessaries (as we do in our country on the _Danube_ and _Rhine_)

or lodgings. We were necessitated to be contented with some slight food

or other, and make a shift with curds, cheese, fruits, honey, _&c._ and

to take any of these with some bread for a good entertainment. The honey

in these parts is very good, and of a whitish colour, whereof they take

in their caravans and navigations great leathern bottles full along with

them; this they bring you in small cups, and put a little butter to it,

and so you eat it with biskets. By this dish I often remembred St _John_

the _Baptist_, the fore-runner of our Lord, how he also did eat honey in

the desarts, together with other food. Besides this when we had a mind to

feast our selves, some ran, as soon as our master had landed at night, to

fetch some wood, and others in the mean time made a hole in the ground on

the shoar, in the nature of a furnace, to boil our meat. So every company

dressed accordingly what they had a mind to, or what they had laid up in

store; some boil’d rice, others ground corn _&c._ And when they had a

mind to eat new bread instead, or for want of biskets, they made a paste

of flower and water, and wrought it into broad cakes about the thickness

of a finger, and put them in a hot place on the ground, heated on purpose

by fire, and covered it with ashes and coals, and turned it several times

until it was enough. These cakes were very savory and good to eat. Some

of the _Arabians_ have in their tents stones or copper-plates made on

purpose to bake them. On the 4th day, being the last of _September_,

about noon, we came to the end of the mountains, before which without,

on this side, lieth a very strong citadel, on a high hill, built three

square, by the inhabitants called _Seleby_, whereof two points go

downwards towards the river, and the third upward a great way on the

mountain, so that in it’s situation it is very like unto _Baden_ in

_Switzerland_. Although it is demolished, yet it is still very strong

in it’s walls, that are to be seen at the top and on the sides, chiefly

towards the hills, and the river side, to hinder the passage both by

water and land. There are also still standing some watch-houses without,

as you come towards it near the mountains, which may hold three or four

souldiers: yet it lieth still to this day in ruins, and so desolated,

that nothing but birds and beast inhabit it; whereof a great many

appeared on the river side, as _Herns_, _Ducks_, that were very large and

of a delicate colour, and others among which were some of a white colour,

called _Pelicans_ by _Aristotle_, and _Onocrotali_ by others, which are

as big as _Swans_; the prophet _Zephaniah_ maketh also mention of them

in his second chapter, when he prognosticated the punishment that was to

come to the _Ninevites_, _Assyrians_ and _Moors_; there also appeared

some quite black with long necks; whereof I did see abundance in my

travels into the _Land of Promise_, and especially near _Acon_ among the

rocks and crags of the sea; as far as I could discern them at a distance;

they seemed to be a kind of a _Sea-Eagle_[1], that feed more upon fish

than any thing else. Six miles lower, and at the other side of the

_Euphrates_, lieth still another fortification, which is called _Subiau

Seleby_, that is, lower _Seleby_, on a very high bank, and seeing that

we sailed very near it, I could not well discover it. Of these two which

way they were besieged and taken; and also of the way of government, or

ruling of the Kings of _Arabia_, &c. I should have been very glad to have

been a little better informed, but the language wherewith I was not well

acquainted, did hinder me. And suppose I should have understood it very

well, or enough to have made an enquiry after those particulars, yet

I could not have done it without great danger, to have been taken for

a spy; for they soon suspect outlandish men on every little occasion,

which those that trade in these parts have often experienced not without

great loss and danger. Beyond the mountains in the low country we saw

more tilled grounds, and habitations of the _Arabians_ than we had done

before, wherefore our master landed sooner than he used to do, near a

village, to take in provision for our farther journey, where the people

brought flesh and _Indian Melons_ to us to sell. Here it happened, that

about midnight, one of the _Turkish_ souldiers went out to ease himself

on the river side; and when he was busy about it, a _Moor_ came creeping

along to him, and thrust him into the river before he was aware of it,

and run away. The _Turk_ finding himself in the _Euphrates_, fell a

crying out for help; I hearing him, standing centinel that night did

not fail him, but made what haste I could, with my scymeter in my hand,

followed his voice, and came to the place, although it was very dark,

drew him out, and brought him into the ship, which was so kindly taken

by the rest of the _Turks_, that I got mightily into their favour, and

received many kindnesses of them all the way until we came to _Bagdet_,

the garrison which they went to reinforce.

The first of _October_ when our Voyage went on again, there came early

in the morning a post of six _Arabians_ on horseback to the river side

to inquire of us whither their King was gone, or where we thought they

might find him; they had received letters for him from the Sultan,

wherefore they must follow him until they found him. The master of our

ship told them, as he did to every body that ask’d him, that we had seen

him in _Mesopotamia_, which province he call’d _Amanachar_, that he

was broken up with his Men to go back into _Arabia_, where they would

find him. After this relation they departed, and we went on our way,

and soon saw below a town to our right at a distance, call’d _Seccard_,

very well situated on an ascent, belonging to the King of _Arabia_,

wherefore some of the _Turks_ said, that none but _Haramiquiber_, that

is, _great Thieves_, lived in it, which they do out of spight to all

them that are subject to any other master than their Sultan. This town

we passed by, and went directly towards _Deer_ another town, whence we

were then three leagues distant, yet they do not account their distances

by leagues, for they know little or nothing of it, but rather reckon by

days journeys, for their towns are so situated at such a distance, that

they have sometimes to go through divers wildernesses, several days, more

or less, before they arrive there. Before we came thither, one of the

ships in our company did go too much towards one side, toward a branch

of the river, that runs by the town, for it divideth itself into several

branches, where it got into the mud and stuck. Our master seeing this,

landed immediately, and did send his men to help them. So I got time to

look about for the strange plants, and found there about the river many

Tamarisk-trees, also a peculiar sort of Willow, which the inhabitants

still call by it’s ancient _Arabian_ name _Garb_. These trees do not

grow high, but spread very much; the twigs thereof are stronger and

not so tough, as to make bands or withs as ours will; the bark is of

a pale yellow colour, and so are the leaves, which are long and about

two fingers broad, and at the edges round about crenated, so that they

are very much differing from the rest of this kind. I found them to be

of a pretty drying and astringent quality. Of their flowers and fruit,

whereof _Avicenna_ maketh mention in his 126th and 686th chap. I can say

nothing, because I saw none. Hereabouts the _Turk_, that would not stay

until we were cleared, but went away before us, suffer’d shipwreck, and

so lost a great deal of his corn, that he intended to carry to _Bagdat_,

call’d _Baldac_, to sell it in the great scarcity, which was occasion’d

for want of rain, for there fell none in the space of two years and an

a half. And yet, as they say, if it raineth but twice or thrice a year,

they have enough to supply themselves. After our men had wrought longer

than an hour together with theirs, until they had emptied the ships, they

came to us again to go that night to _Deer_. But there being several

rocks before it, which were very dangerous to pass, some of their pilots,

that understood the depths, came out to meet, and did help us, so that we

got safe there. The town of _Deer_, which is not very big, and belongs

to the Sultan, is situated on this side of the river, on an ascent, and

is pretty well built with houses, (whereon stood great numbers of people

when we into it, to see us) but as for the walls and ditches, they are

but very slight. At our first arrival, we thought we should soon get

clear for the custom with the Armin, and ship off again, but he was

not in town, so that we were forced to stay three days for his coming.

In the mean time we got acquaintance with the inhabitants, which were

handsome, lusty and well set, and white, and more mannerly than the rest;

they visited us frequently, and spoke kindly to us, so that we found a

vast difference between those and the former. The Armin also, who was

no less civil, we presented at his return, with a great dish fill’d up

with Cibebs, and several sorts of confectures, and laid round about with

soap-balls, as is the fashion in these countries; but to them that were

with him and of his family, we gave some sheets of white paper, which

they willingly received, and were so well pleased with it, that some of

them (as the children do in our country, when we give them something

that is strange or pleasing to them) smiled at it as often as they look’d

on it. The country thereabouts is pretty fertile and plentiful of corn,

_Indian_ millet, cotton, _&c._ and they have also between the rivers

very good gardens for the kitchen, with all sorts of plants and fruits

in them, _viz._ Colliflowers, Citruls, Pumpions, Cucumbers, Anguries or

Water-melons, which they call _Bathiecæ_, whereof they have so many that

you may buy forty great ones for one Asper, whereof three make a Medin,

much about the value of our penny. There were also some Date-trees, Limon

and Citron, and other trees, which I could not distinguish at a distance.

CHAP. V.

_Of our Voyage to the famous town ~Ana~, in which we passed again through

great sandy wildernesses; for the performance thereof we must provide

ourselves with victuals, and be very careful in our navigation: Some

relation of the inhabitants, of their cloaths, and other things we did

observe and see by the way, and what else did happen unto us._

After we had paid the custom to the Armin, who was a great deal more

civil than he at _Racka_, and provided ourselves with all necessaries, we

did but half load our ships, to draw them out of the branch again into

the river, and then we carry’d the rest to them by boats and small ships,

for the water was very low and full of mud, so that we went from thence

on the fourth day of _October_ in the evening, and so staid all night, a

little below _Deer_.