Victoria and Albert Museum, are specimens of "rézeuil d'or," or
network with patterns worked in with gold thread and coloured silks.
Such were the richly-wrought "serviettes sur filez d'or" of Margaret
of Austria.
"Autre servyette de Cabes (Cadiz) ouvrée d'or, d'argent sur fillez
et bordée d'or et de gris.
"Autre serviette à Cabes de soye grise et verde à ouvrage de fillez
bordée d'une tresse de verd et gris."--Inventory already quoted.
[75] "Le Gan," de Jean Godard, Parisien, 1588.
[76] Descriptive Catalogue of the Collections of Tapestry and Embroidery
in the South Kensington Museum (p. 5).
[77] Lace. French, _dentelle_; German, _Spitzen_; Italian, _merletto_,
_trina_; Genoa, _pizzo_; Spanish, _encaje_; Dutch, _kanten_.
[78] Statute 3 Edw. IV. c. iii.
[79] "Passement, a lace or lacing."--_Cotgrave_.
[80] Not in those of Rob. Estienne, 1549; Frère de l'Aval, 1549; or
Nicot, 1606. Cotgrave has, "Dentelle, small edging (and indented),
bone-lace, or needlework." In Dict. de l'Académie, 1694, we find,
"Dentelle, sorte de passement à jour et à mailles tres fines ainsi
nommé parceque les premières qu'on fit etoient dentelées."
[81] _Comptes de l'Argentier du Roi_, 1557.--Arch. Nat. K. K. 106.
"Passement de fine soie noire dentelle d'un costé." "Passement
blanc," "grise," also occur.
[82] _Argenterie de la Reine_, 1556.--Arch. Nat. K. K. 118.
[83] _Dépenses de la maison de Madame Marguerite de France, soeur du
Roi._--Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 10,394, fol. 62.
[84] "Plus de delivré une pacque de petite dentelle qui est estez cousu
ensemble pour mettre sur les coutures des rideaux des ditz litz
contenant 80 aunes."--Rec. Off., Edin. This custom of trimming the
seams of bed-curtains with a lace indented on both sides was common
throughout Europe. In the Chartley Inv. of Mary Stuart, 1586, one of
the Vasquines (jackets) is described, "Autre de satin noir
descouppée a descouppemie dentelés."
[85] 1577. "Pour deux aulnes de passement d'argent a hautte dantelle pour
mettre à ung renvers, au pris de soixante solz l'aulne.
"Pour une aulne de dentelle pour faire deux cornettes pour servir à
la dicte dame, quatre livres."--_Cptes. de la Reine de Navarre._
Arch. Nat. K. K. 162.
[86] See APPENDIX.
[87] "Petits et grands passements; id. à l'esguille; id. faict au
mestier; id. de Flandres à poinctes; id. orangé à jour; id. de
Flandres satiné;" with "reseuil, dantelles, grandes et petites, or,
argent," etc.--_Inv. de Madame, soeur du Roi._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 234.
So late as 1645, in the inventory of the church of St. Médard at
Paris (Arch de l'Emp. L. L. 858), the word is used. We find, "Quatre
tours de chaire de thoille baptiste, ung beau surplis pour le
predicateur, six autres, cinq corporaulx," all "à grand passement."
Also, "deux petits corporaulx à petit passement," and "trois tours
de chaire garnyz de grand passement à dentelle."
[88] _Inv. apres le decès de Mgr. le Maréchal de La Motte._--Bib. Nat.
MSS. F. Fr. 11,426.
[89] The French terms are more comprehensive:--
Champ, fond travaillé à jour.
Toilé, fleurs entièrement remplies, formant un tissu sans jour.
Grillé, grillage, plein. Also flowers--but distinguished from toilé
by having little square spaces between the thread (_grillé_,
grating), the work not being so compact.
"On appelle couleuvre, une blond dont le toilé continue serpente
entre deux rangs de grillage."--_Roland de la Platière_ (the
Girondin). Art. Dentelle, _Encyclopédie Méthodique_. Paris, 1780.
[90] _Storehouse of Armory and Blason._ 1688.
[91] "Brides--petits tissus de fil qui servent à joindre les fleurs les
unes avec les autres dans l'espèce de dentelle qu'on appelle Point
de France, de Venise, de Malines."--_Dict de l'Académie._
[92] "Une robe et tablier, garnis d'une dentelle d'Angleterre à
picot."--_Inv. de decès de la Duchesse de Bourbon._ Arch. Nat. X.
10,064.
[93] "Une chemisette de toile d'hollande garnye de point de
Paris."--_Inv. d'Anne d'Escoubleau, Baronne de Sourdis, veuve de
François de Simiane._ 1681. Arch. Nat. M. M. 802.
[94] "Cette dernière sorte de point se fait aux fuseaux."--_Dict. du P.
Richelet._ Lyon. 1759.
[95] _Dict. d'Ant. Furetière._ Augmenté par M. Basnage. La Haye, 1727.
[96] 1656.
[97] 1651. "Huit aulnes de toile commune garnies de neige."--_Inv. des
emubles de la Sacristie de l'Oratoire de Jésus, à Paris._ Bib. Nat.
MSS. F. Fr. 8621.
"Neuf autres petites nappes; les deux premières de toile unie; la
troisième à dentelle quallifié de neige."--_Ibid._
[98] French, _dentelle à fuseaux_; Italian, _merli a piombini_; Dutch,
_gespeldewerkte kant_; Old Flemish, _spelle werk_.
[99] French, _carreau_, _cousin_, _oreiller_; Italian, _tombolo_; Venice,
_ballon_; Spanish, _mundillo_.
[100] See Chapter XXIV.
[101] The number of bobbins is generally equal to 50 to each square inch.
If the lace be one inch wide, it will have 625 meshes in each square
inch, or 22,500 in a yard. The work, therefore, goes on very slowly,
though generally performed with the greatest dexterity.
[102] At Gisors, Saint-Denis, Montmorency, and Villiers-le-Bel.--Savary,
_Grand Dict. du Commerce_, 1720.
Cotgrave gives, "Bisette, a plate (of gold, silver, or copper)
wherewith some kinds of stuffes are stripped." Oudin, "Feuille ou
paillette d'or ou d'argent." In these significations it frequently
occurs. We find with numerous others:
"1545. 55 sols pour une once bizette d'argent pour mectre à des
colletz."
"Six aulnes bizette de soie noire pour mettre sur une robbe, lv.
s.," in the Accounts of Madame Marguerite de France. (Bib. Nat.)
"1557. Bizette de soye incarnatte et jaulne pour chamarrer ung
pourpoint de satin rouge" of Henry II.--_Cptes. de l'Argentier du
Roi._ Arch. Nat. K. K. 106.
"1579. Petite bizette d'or fin dentellez des deux costez pour servir
à desmanches de satin cramoisy" of Catherine de
Médicis.--_Trésorerie de la royne mère du roy._ Arch. Nat. K. K.
115.
In the Chartley Inv. 1586, of Mary Stuart, is mentioned, "Un plotton
de bisette noire."
[103] _Dict. de l'Académie._
[104] Campane, from sonnette, clochette, même grêlot. "Les sonnettes dont
on charge les habits pour ornement. Les festons qu'on met aux
étoffes et aux dentelles."--_Oudin._
[105] Public Record Office.
[106] In the last century it was much the fashion to trim the scalloped
edges of a broader lace with a narrower, which was called to
"campaner."
1720. "Une garniture de teste à trois pièces de dentelle
d'Angleterre à raiseau, garni autour d'une campane à dents."--_Inv.
de la Duchesse de Bourbon._
1741. "Une paire de manches à trois rangs de Malines à raizeau
campanée."--_Inv. de decès de Mademoiselle Marie Anne de Bourbon de
Clermont._ Arch. Nat. X. 11,071. (Daughter of Mademoiselle de Nantes
and Louis Duke de Bourbon.)
"Une coëffure de Malines à raizeau à deux pièces campanée."--_Ibid._
In the lace bills of Madame du Barry, preserved in the Bib. Nat.,
are various entries of Angleterre et point à l'aiguille, "campanée
des deux côtés" for ruffles, camisoles, etc.
[107] 1759. "Huit palatines tant points que mignonettes."--_Inv. de decès
de Louise Henriette de Bourbon-Conty, Princesse du Sang, Duchesse de
Orléans._ Arch. Nat. X. 10,077.
"Trente-vingt paires de manchettes, quatre coëffures, le tout tant
de differents points qu'Angleterre, mignonettes que
tulles."--_Ibid._
[108] 1758. "Une paire de manchettes à trois rangs de blonde de fil sur
entoilage."--_Inv. de Mademoiselle Louise Anne de Bourbon Condé de
Charollais_ (sister of Mademoiselle de Clermont). Arch. Nat. X.
10,076.
1761. "Fichus garnis à trois rangs de blonde de fil sur
entoilage."--_Inv. de Charlotte Aglaë d'Orléans, Princesse du Sang,
Duchesse de Modène_ (daughter of the Regent).
1789. Ruffles of blonde de fil appear also in the _Inv. de decès de
Monseigneur le Duc de Duras_. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,440.
[109] Mostly at Bayeux.
[110] "On employe aussi pour les coëffures de la mignonette, et on a
tellement perfectionné cette dentelle, que estant peu de chose dans
son commencement est devenue de consequence et même très chère,
j'entends, la plus fine qu'on fait sur de beaux patrons."--_Le
Mercure Galant_, 1699.
[111] "Guiper. Tordre les fils pendans d'une frange par le moyen de
l'instrument qu'on nomme guipoir, fer crochu d'un côté, et chargé de
l'autre d'un petit morceau de plomb pour lui donner du
poids."--Savary.
[112] "Guipure. A grosse black thread covered or whipped about with
silk."--Cotgrave.
"Guipure. Manière de dentelle de soie où il y a des figures de rose
ou d'autres fleurs, et qui sert à parer les jupes des dames.... Sa
jupe est pleine de guipure."--_Dict. du P. Richelet._ 1759.
[113] Roland. We cannot help thinking this a mistake. In the statutes of
the Passementiers, we find mention of buttons "à têtes de mort," or
would it rather be "tête de moire," from the black moire hoods
(têtes) worn by the Italian women, which were often edged with a
narrow guipure?
[114] Les lieux en France où il se fait le plus de guipures, sont
Saint-Denis-en-France, Villiers-le-Bel, Ecouën, Arcelles,
Saint-Brice, Groslait, Montmorency, Tremblay, Villepinte, etc.
[115] The sale of Guipures belonged to the master mercers, the workmanship
to the passementiers boutonniers. We find in the _Livre Commode ou
les Adresses de la Ville de Paris_ for 1692, that "Guipures et
galons de soye se vendent sur le Petit Pont et rue aux Febvres, où
l'on vend aussi des galons de livrées."
[116] Godefroy. _Le Cérémonial de France_, 1610. _Sacre du Roy Henry
II._, 1547.
[117] In 1549. _Ibid._
[118] _Traité des Marques Nationales_, dar M. Beneton de Morange de
Peyrins. Paris, 1739.
[119] In the Record Office, Edinburgh.
[120] Une robe de velours vert couverte de Broderies, gimpeures, et
cordons d'or et d'argent, et bordée d'un passement de même.
Une robe veluat cramoisi bandée de broderie de guimpeure d'argent.
Une robe de satin blanc chamarrée de broderie faite de guimpeure
d'or.
Id. de satin jaune toute couverte de broderye gumpeure, etc.
Robe de weloux noyr semée geynpeurs d'or.
[121] _Dictionnaire de l'Académie._
[122] 1536-44. Sir Fred. Madden.
2 payr of sleeves whereof one of gold w^h p'chemene lace, etc.
2 prs. of sleves w^h pchmyn lase, 8/6.
[123] _Ecclesiastical Memoirs_, iii. 2, 167.
[124] State Papers, vol. 82, P. R. O.
[125] Surtees' Society, Durham, "Wills and Inventories."
[126] 1572. Thynne, in his _Debate between Pride and Lowliness_, describes
a coat "layd upon with parchment lace withoute."
[127] B. M. Add. MSS. No. 5751.
[128] Roll. 1607. P. R. O.
[129] _Ibid._ 1626. 11 nightcaps of coloured satin, laid on thick, with
gold and silver parchment lace, 41. 9. 9.
[130] Roll. 1630.
[131] "Eidem pro novemdecem vir[=g] et di[=m] aureæ et argenteæ
pergame[=n] laciniæ pondent sexdecim un[=c] 2/[dram] 1/[scruple]
venet. ... pro consua[=t] ad ornan[=d] duas sedes utroque latere
thronæ in domo Parliament."--_Gt. Ward. Acc._ Car. II. xxx. and
xxxi. = 1678-9.
In 1672-73 is an entry for "2 virgis teniæ pergame[=n]."
[132] Surtees' "Inventories."
[133] Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 8621.
[134] _In the Recueil de pièces les plus agréables de ce temps, composées
par divers autheurs._ Paris, chez Charles Sercy, MDCLXI.
The poem is dedicated to Mademoiselle de la Trousse, cousin of
Madame de Sévigné, and was probably written by one of her coterie.
[135] The Cravates or Croates soldiers had a band of stuff round their
throats to support an amulet they wore as a charm to protect them
from sabre-cuts. What began in superstition ended in fashion.
[136] These were, in France, Guibray, Beaucaire, and Bordeaux; in Germany,
Frankfort; in Italy, Novi.
[137] All articles of luxury were to be met with at the provincial fairs.
When, in 1671, Catherine of Braganza, the Duchess of Richmond, and
the Duke of Buckingham, visited Saffron Walden fair, the Queen asked
for a pair of yellow stockings, and Sir Bernard Gascoyne, for a pair
of gloves stitched with blue.
[138] 10 Hen. III., Devon's _Issues of the Exchequer_.
[139] "No lace-woman," says Ben Jonson, "that brings French masks and
cut-works." That lace was sold by pedlars in the time of Henry
VIII., we find from a play, "The Four P's," written in 1544, by John
Heywood. Among the contents of a pedlar's box are given "lasses
knotted," "laces round and flat for women's heads," "sleeve laces,"
etc.
On opening the box of the murdered pedlar (_Fool of Quality_, 1766),
"they found therein silk, linen, laces," etc.
[140] Defoe describes Sturbridge fair as the greatest of all Europe.
"Nor," says he, "are the fairs of Leipsig in Saxony, the Mart at
Frankfort-on-the-Maine, or the fair of Nuremburg or Augsburg, any
way comparable to this fair of Sturbridge."
In 1423, the citizens of London and the suburbs being accused of
sending works of "embroidery of gold, or silver, of Cipre, or of
gold of Luk, togedre with Spanish Laton of insuffisant stuff to the
fayres of Sturesbrugg, Ely, Oxenford, and Salisbury"--in fact, of
palming off inferior goods for country use--"all such are
forfeited."--_Rot. Parl._, 2 Hen. VI., nu. 49.
[141] "Lingua, or the Combat of the Tongue." A Comedy. 1607.
[142] This system of colporteurs dates from the early Greeks. They are
termed both in Greek and Hebrew, "des voyageurs."
[143] "She came to the house under the pretence of offering some lace,
holland, and fine tea, remarkably cheap."--_Female Spectator._ 1757.
[144] The centres of the lace manufacture before 1665 were:--
BELGIUM Brussels, Mechlin, Antwerp, Liége, Louvain, Binche,
Bruges, Ghent, Ypres, Courtray, etc.
FRANCE (Spread over more than ten Provinces)--
Artois Arras (Pas-de-Calais).
French Flanders Lille, Valenciennes, Bailleul (Nord).
Normandy Dieppe, Le Hâvre (Seine-Inférieure).
Ile de France Paris and its environs.
Auvergne Aurillac (Cantal).
Velay Le Puy (Haute-Loire).
Lorraine Mirecourt (Vosges).
Burgundy Dijon (Côte-d'or).
Champagne Charleville, Sedan (Ardennes).
Lyonnais Lyon (Rhône).
Poitou Loudun (Vienne).
Languedoc Muret (Haute-Garonne).
ITALY Genoa, Venice, Milan, Ragusa, etc.
SPAIN La Mancha, and in Catalonia especially.
GERMANY Saxony, Bohemia, Hungary, Denmark, and Principality of
Gotha.
ENGLAND Counties of Bedford, Bucks, Dorset, and Devon.
[145] _Industrial Arts of the Nineteenth Century_, Digby Wyatt.
[146] Francesco Nardi. _Sull' Origine dell' Arte del Ricamo._ Padova,
1839.
[147] _Ricamare. Recamar._
[148] The traditions of the Low Countries also point to an Eastern origin,
assigning the introduction of lace-making to the Crusaders, on their
return from the Holy Land.
[149] _Origine ed Uso delle Trine a filo di refe_ (thread), 1864.
Privately printed.
[150] 1469.--Io, Battista de Nicollo d'Andrea da Ferrara, debio avere per
mia manifatura et reve per cuxere et candelle per inzirare.... It.
per desgramitare e refilare e inzirare e ripezare e reapicare le
gramite a camixi quatordece per li signori calonexi, et per li,
mansonarij le qual gramite staxea malissimamente, p. che alcune
persone le a guaste, Lire 1 10. It. per reve et p. candelle, L. 0 5.
1469.--I, Baptist de Nicollo of Andrea da Ferrara, having owing to
me for my making, and thread to sew, and candles to wax.... Item,
for untrimming and re-weaving and waxing and refixing and rejoining
the trimmings of fourteen albs for the canons and attendants of the
church, the which trimmings were in a very bad state, because some
persons had spoiled them, L. 1 10. It. for thread and wax, L. 0 5.
These trimmings (gramite), Cav. Merli thinks, were probably "trine."
"At Chicago was exhibited the first kind of net used in Italy as
lace on garments. It is made of a very fine linen or silk mesh,
stiffened with wax and embroidered in silk thread. It was in use
during the fourteenth century, and part of the fifteenth" (_Guide to
New and Old Lace in Italy_, C. di Brazza, 1893). This is probably
the gramite, or trimmings of the albs, mentioned in the account book
formerly belonging to the Cathedral of Ferrara, and now preserved in
the Municipal Archives of that city.
[151] See MILAN.
[152] _Trina_, like our word lace, is used in a general sense for braid or
passement. Florio, in his Dictionary (_A Worlde of Words_, John
Florio, London, 1598), gives _Trine_--cuts, snips, pincke worke on
garments; and _Trinci_--gardings, fringings, lacings, etc., or other
ornaments of garments.
_Merlo_, _merletto_, are the more modern terms for lace. We find the
first as early as the poet Firenzuola (see FLORENCE). It does not
occur in any pattern book of an older date than the "Fiori da
Ricami" of Pasini, and the two works of Francesco de' Franceschi,
all printed in 1591.
[153] The laces, both white and gold, depicted in the celebrated picture
of the Visit of the Queen of Sheba to Solomon, by Lavinia Fontana,
now in the Lambeccari Gallery, executed in the sixteenth century,
prove that white lace was in general use in the Italian Courts at
that epoch.
[154] At present, if you show an Italian a piece of old lace, he will
exclaim, "Opera di monache; roba di chiesa."
[155] Statute 2, Henry VI., 1423. The first great treaty between the
Venetians and Henry VII. was in 1507.
[156] _Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York_, 1502. P. R. O. Also
published by Sir H. Nicolas.
[157] Inv. Henry VIII.
[158] Gremio, when suing for Bianca, enumerates among his wealth in ivory
coffers stuffed, "Turkey cushions bossed with pearl; valance of
Venice gold in needlework."--_Taming of the Shrew._
[159] "One jerkyn of cloth of silver with long cuts down righte, bound
with a billament lace of Venice silver and black silk."--_Robes of
the late King_ (Edward VI.).
[160] "A smock of cambrik wrought about the collar and sleeves with black
silke; the ruffe wrought with Venice gold and edged with a small
bone lace of Venice gold."--_Christmas Presents to the Queen_, by
Sir G. Carew. "7 ounces of Venice 'laquei bone' of gold and black
silk; lace ruff edged with Venice gold lace," etc. _G. W. A. Eliz.,
passim_, P. R. O.
[161] 1587.
[162] Madame de Puissieux died in 1677, at the age of eighty.
[163] Venice points are not mentioned by name till the ordinance of 1654.
See GREEK ISLANDS.
[164] _Hudibras._
[165] Italy we believe to have furnished her own thread. "Fine white or
nun's thread is made by the Augustine nuns of Crema, twisted after
the same manner as the silk of Bolonia," writes Skippin, 1651.
[166] _Halimedia opuntia_, Linn.
[167] That most frequently met with is the Corona of Vecellio. See
APPENDIX.
[168] First mentioned in the Sforza Inventory, 1493 (see MILAN); not in
the pattern-books till Vecellio, 1592; but Taglienti (1530) gives
"su la rete," and "Il specchio di Pensieri" (1548), "purito in
rede."
[169] Plate V.
[170] First given in the _Honesto Esempio_. 1550 and _passim_.
[171] Mentioned by Taglienti (1530), and afterwards in the _Trionfo_
(1555), and _passim_.
[172] Given in _Il Monte_, circ. 1550, but described by Firenzuola
earlier. See FLORENCE.
[173] See Chap. III., notes 104 and 106.
[174] "Toile de la Pale."--A pasteboard about eight inches square,
enclosed in cambric or lace, used to cover the paten when laid over
the cup.
[175] The whole furniture of a room taken from a palace at Naples,
comprising curtains, and vallance of a bed, window curtains, toilet,
etc., of straw-coloured laces, reticella, embroidered netting, etc.;
the price asked was 18,000 francs = £720. There was also much of the
rose point, and a handkerchief bordered with beautiful flat Venetian
point of the same colour, forming part of a trousseau. 700 francs =
£28.
[176] Taglienti (1530) has _groppi_, _moreschi_, and _arabeschi_; and _Il
Specchio_ (1548), _ponti gropposi_. See also the Sforza Inventory,
1493.
[177] See GENOA.
[178] Taglienti (1530) gives _a magliata_, Parasole (1600) _lavori di
maglia_.
[179] _Punti a stuora_ occur in _Il Specchio_ (1548), _I Frutti_ (1564),
and in the _Vera Perfettione_ (1591) the word _stuora_ (modern,
_stuoja_) means also a mat of plaited rushes, which some of these
interlaced patterns may be intended to imitate.
[180] _Burato._ See APPENDIX.
[181] There are many patterns for this work in _Le Pompe di Minerva_,
1642. Taglienti (1530) has _desfilato_ among his _punti_.
[182] Many other points are enumerated in the pattern-books, of which we
know nothing, such as _gasii_ (_I Frutti_, 1564), _trezola_
(_Ibid_), _rimessi_ (_Vera Perfettione_, 1591), _opere a mazzette_
(Vecellio, 1591, and Lucretia Bomana, N.D.).
[183] _Tracts on Trade of the Seventeenth Century_, published by
MacCulloch, at the expense of Lord Monteagle. 1856.
[184] Venice point forms a considerable item in the expenses of Charles
II. and his brother James.
[185] Venice noted "for needlework laces, called points."--_Travels Thro'
Italy and France_, by J. Ray. 1738.
[186] Misson, F. M., _Nouveau Voyage d'Italie_, 4me édition. La Haye,
1702.
[187] _Origine delle Feste Veneziane_, da Giustina R. Michiel. Milano,
1829.
[188] _An Itinerary, containing his Ten Yeeres Travel through Germany,
Bohmerland, Switzerland, Netherland, Denmark, Poland, Italy, Turkey,
France, England, Scotland, and Ireland._ Lond., 1617.
[189] 1591.
[190] See, in APPENDIX, designs for _bavari_ by Lucrezia.
[191] The entry of the Venetian ambassador, Mocenigo, is described in the
_Mercure Galant_, 1709:--
"Il avoit un rabat de point de Venise.... Sa robe de damas noir avec
des grandes manches qui pendoient par derrière. Cette robe etoit
garnie de dentelle noir."
[192] _Letters from Italy._ So, in a play of Goldoni, who wrote in the
middle of the last century, the lady has a Brussels (Angleterre)
head-dress.
Don Flaminio: "Mi par bellisima cotesto pizzo Barbara: E un punto
d'Inghilterra che ha qualche merito."--_Gli Amori di Zelinda e
Lindoro._
In Goldoni's plays all the ladies make lace on the pillow
(_ballon_), so the art of making the needle Venice point was
probably at an end.
[193] "La plus belle dentelle noire fait l'espèce de camail qui, sous un
chapeau noir emplumé, couvre leurs épaules et leur tête."--Madame du
Boccage, 1735. _Lettres sur l'Italie._
"Quella specie de lungo capuocio di finissimo merlo pur nero,
chiamato bauta."--Michiel.
[194] "L'île de Burano où l'on fabrique les dentelles."--Quadri, _Huit
Jours à Venise_.
[195] _Technical History of Venetian Laces_, Urbani de Gheltof. Translated
by Lady Layard. Venice, 1882.
_Origines de la Dentelle de Venise et l'École de Burano._ Venice,
1897.
Traditions of lace-making were kept alive in Venice, Cantu and
Liguria during the first half of the nineteenth century by the
manufacture of an inferior quality of _blonde_, once extensively
made at Venice, which has since died out, owing to the revival in
the production of thread-lace and guipures at Palestrina.
[196] "Velleto (veil) uno d'oro filato.
"Payro uno fodrete (pillow-case) di cambria lavorate a gugia (à
l'aiguille).
"Lenzuolo (sheet) uno di revo di tele (linen thread), cinque
lavorato a punto.
"Peza una de tarnete (trina) d'argento facte a stelle.
"Lenzolo uno de tele, quatro lavorato a _radexelo_ (reticello).
"Peze quatro de _radexela_ per mettere ad uno moscheto (zanzariere,
mosquito curtain).
"Tarneta una d'oro et seda negra facta da ossi (bones).
"Pecto uno d'oro facto _a grupi_.
"Lavoro uno de rechamo facto _a grupi_ dove era suso le pere de
Madona Biancha.
"Binda una lavorata a poncto de doii fuxi (two bobbins) per uno
lenzolo."--_Instrumento di divizione tre le sorelle Angela ed
Ippolita Sforza Visconti_, di Milano, 1493, Giorno di Giovedì, 12
Settembre.
[197] "La mità de uno fagotto quale aveva dentro certi dissegni da
lavorare le donne."
[198] Harl. MS. No. 1419.
[199] Roll. P. R. O.
[200] P. R. O.
[201] De la Mare, _Traité de la Police_.
[202] "Statuts, Ordonnances et Reglemens de la Communauté des Maistres
Passementiers, etc., de Paris, confirmez sur les anciens Statuts du
23 mars 1558." Paris, 1719.
[203] _Grand Dictionnaire Universel du Commerce._ 1723.
[204] _Voyage en Italie._ 1765.
[205] Peuchet, J., _Dictionnaire Universel de la Géographie Commerçante._
Paris, An vii. = 1799.
[206] _Letters from Italy_, by a lady. 1770.