compared with Binche, 135;
with Dutch, 260;
with Eu lace, 221;
with Isle of Man lace, 372 n1096;
with Lille, 237;
with Mechlin, 233;
with point de Dieppe, 220;
with Welsh lace, 371 n1094
cost of (1788), 234 and n627
fault of, 235 n629
Honiton reproduction of, 416
industry
centres of, 132;
after French Revolution, 231 n624;
expense and labour in making, 233;
cost of thread, 234 n627
decline of, 231
establishment of, date, 230
French Revolution, effect of, 183 n539
method of working pattern in, 31
numbers employed (18th century), 230;
(1790 and 1851), 231;
at Ypres (1684 and 1850), 131
period of highest merit, 234-235
time required in producing, 233-234
value of Belgium monopoly, 132 and n376
wages and conditions of work, 233
point a misnomer for, 32
réseau of, 66
varieties of
Alost (ground stitch), 133
Bailleul, 241
Bohemia, 268
Bruges, 132-133
Courtrai, width of, 131 n373;
compared with Ypres, 132;
ground stitch, 133 n377;
character of, 232 n624
Dijon, 255
fausses Valenciennes, manufactories of, 241, 387
Ghent (ground stitch), 133 n377
Le Puy, 230 and n619, 245
vrai Valenciennes, 231 and n624
Ypres, description of, 131, 231 n624;
value of, 131 n373;
ground and pattern, 131-133
Valentine de Milan, 139 n393
Valets, extravagance of, 173 and n514
Valguarnera, Prince, 71
Valladolid, lace-trimmed banner at, 100
Valois line, influence of, on French fashions, 139
_Valuables of Glenurquhy_, quoted, 325 and n938
Valvassore's heirs, pattern book of, 476
Van Even, Edward, cited, 110 n320
Van Eyck, Jacob, quoted, 111 and n322
Van Londonzeel, Assuerus, 111
Vandyke edges, origin of term, 448 n1241
Vatican, laces of, 70
Vavassore, Giovanni Andrea, 466, 467, 472
Vecellio
cited, 71 and n221
Corona of, 8 n28, 29, 50 n167, 111, 484, 486
Veils, bridal, 78;
English, fourteenth century, 285
Vélay lace industry (_See also_ Le Puy), fifteenth century, 242;
18th century, 244;
thread used, 245
Venezuela, lace of, 108
Venice
Billament lace of, 48 and n159
blonde, formerly made in, 59 n195
Brussels lace worn at, 57 and n192
Colbert, ordinance of, trade affected by, 54
collar made for Louis XIII. at, 194
emigration of workers restricted, 159 n465
English imports from, 43, 288, 307 n863, n864;
prohibited, 358
fashion dolls at St. Mark's fair, 170 n501
frauds of lace-makers in, 48, 67, 288
gold work of, 288, 307 n863, n864
Greek lace made at, 85
Medici collars made at, 56
numbers employed on lace-making in, 63
Point of. _See_ Point de Venise
polychrome lace, introduction of, 62-63
sumptuary laws in, 48, 57, 79 n245
Swiss lace from, origin of, 269
travellers' allusions to products of, 55, 57
varieties of lace supplied by, 50-53, 57-58
Verbruggen, 129 n367
Verceilles, 249
Verghetti, 56
Vermicelli lace, 74
Verney Papers, quoted, 319 n916
Verona, St. John, life of, executed in needlework at, 8 n26
Veronese, Paul, _macramé_ in picture, by, 79 n248
Verulam, Lord, 101 and n289
Viarmes lace, 212
Victoria, Queen
Honiton lace flounces ordered by, 410
Isle of Wight lace patronised by, 372 n1097
State liveries of, 174 n516
trousseau of, 392, 409
Victoria and Albert Museum
Alençon in, 193 n555
Bock exhibits in, 23 n74
Cyprian lace in, 82
Danish embroideries in, 275
Genoese lappet in, 78 and n244
German specimens in, 264;
Nuremberg ruffs, 267
Hungarian peasant lace in, 268
Irish imitation Venetian point in, 443 n1233
lacis borders in, 20-21
Norwegian cut-work in, 280 n747
pale of rose point in, 51
Paraguayan drawn-work at, 108
pattern-books in, 467 n1287, 468, 470, 477, 488 n1337, 490 n1344, 497
n1361, 501 n1370, 502 n1371
Slavonian peasants' work in, 268
Suffolk laces in, 394
Syon Monastery cope in, 7
tape lace in, 116
Villemarqué, cited, 229 n616
Villiers, Dame Barbara, 328
--------, Sir Edward, 319 n918
--------, Sir George, 318
Villiers-le-Bel, lace-making at, 209, 213 n589
Vimoutier, 204
Vinciolo, Frederick
Katharine de Médicis the patroness of, 11,17
pattern book of, 49, 136, 144, 477-482, 487, 494
Virginière, Blaise de, quoted, 140, 141 and n401
Vittoria, Sister Felice, 93
Volant, origin of name, 168 n496
Vologda lace, 283
Voltaire, quoted, 166 n490
Vorsterman, William, 180, 463
Vos, Martin de, engravings after, 106 and n268
Vrai réseau, bride succeeded by, 406
Vrillière, Mgr. de la, 162 n475
Waborne lace, 300 and n819
Wace, Robert, cited, 202
Wadstena lace industry, 278-280
Wages of lace-workers. _See_ Earnings
Wakefield, quoted, 440 n1228
Waldgrave, Sir Edward, 293
Wales, lace-making in, 371 and n1094
------, Princess of, 409
Walker, Charles, 441 and n1230, 442
Walpole, cited, 297 n808, 356 and n1060
Walsingham, 307 n860, 420 n1182
----------, Lady Audrye, 64, 320 n925
Wareham, lace found in Scandinavian barrow near, 4
Warwick, Lord, 333
Warton, J., quoted, 121 and n349
Washing of ecclesiastical lace, 373 n1101
Waterloo, hospital for English wounded at, 124
Waterman, Mrs. Elizabeth, 395
Watling silk lace, 422
Watt, cited, 482 n1329
Weaving Book, 280
Webb, Mr., 51
Weber, cited, 280 n758
Weigel, Christoph, 501
------, Joh. Christoph, 502
Weisse, C., cited, 259 n693, 264 n707
West Indies, Spanish lace sold in, 102 n294
Westcote, quoted, 400;
cited, 401
Westminster
procession of lace-makers to, 360
St. Margaret's, lace washing from, 373 n1101
------------, Dean of, forbids yellow starch, 317
------------ Abbey
epitaph in cloisters of, 13
lace on images in, 316 n901, 345
Westphalia
Jutland industry improved by workers from, 274
thread, fineness of, 119 n339
Whisks, 334
Whitcomb, John, widow of, 17
White, Edward, 482
------ Knight's sale, 497
Wieselgren, H., cited, 493 n1354
Wight, Isle of, lace industry of, 372 and n1097
Wigs,
cost of, 349
falling bands put out of fashion by, 336
Wilhelmina of Bayreuth, 99 n283
Willemin, cited, 475 n1313
William III., period of, 341-346
-------- of Malmesbury, quoted, 6
-------- of Normandy, 6-7
-------- of Poictiers, quoted, 7
-------- the Silent, 260
Willingham, Geo., letter to, cited, 98 n282
Wilton, Lady, cited, 497
Wiltshire and Dorsetshire lace, 395-398
Winchester, lace purchased at, by Anne of Denmark, 320
----------, Lady Marquis of, 309 n870
Wire, gold and silver lace made from, 72
---- ground, 386
Wiseman, Cardinal, lace alb used by, 92-93
Wolfe, I., 482
Wolsey, Cardinal, lace of, 292
Women, lace work of, compared with that of men, 263
Woodbury
Maltese lace imitation made at, 414 n1165
men lace-makers at, 413
Woollen manufacture in England
lace manufacture next to, in 1698, 402
loss to, from edict against Flanders lace 341, 342, 349
Worcester, Countess of, 313
Wotton, Sir Henry, 136 n385
Wraxall, cited, 105, 142;
quoted, 263
Wulff, Jens, 276 and n739
Wyatt, Sir Thomas, 294
Wyriot, Madame, 205
Yarranton, Andrew, quoted, 114-115 and n327;
cited 259 n696
Yemenis, M., cited, 488 n1339
Yokohama, lace school at, 417
Yorck lace, 138 n392
York, Cardinal, 421
Youghal Convent, lace-making at, 443, 444
Young, A., cited, 192 n552, 207, 223, 224, 244;
quoted, 234 n627, 239
Ypres Valenciennes. _See under_ Valenciennes
Yriarte, Charles, cited, 159 n465
Zante, Greek lace made at, 85
Zedler, cited, 57
Zoppino, Nicolo, 461, 462
Zouch, Lord, cited, 136 n385
Zurich, sumptuary laws of, 270 and n728
LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED,
DUKE STREET, STAMFORD STREET, S.E., AND 28, GREAT WINDMILL STREET. W.
Notes
[1] Wilkinson's _Ancient Egyptians_, vol. iii., p. 134. (See
Illustration.)
[2] Herodotus, ii. 182; iii. 47.
[3] Ezekiel, who takes up the cry of lamentation for "Tyrus, situate at
the entry of the sea," a merchant of the people for many isles,
exclaims, "The merchants of Sheba, Asshur, and Chilmad were thy
merchants. These were thy merchants in all sorts of things, in blue
cloths and broidered works, and in chests of rich apparel." Another
part of the same chapter mentions galley sails of fine linen "with
broidered work from Egypt."--Ezekiel xxvii.
[4] Exodus xxvi.; xxvii.; xxxiv. 2; Isaiah iii. 18; 1 Kings vii. 17.
[5] Exodus xxxviii. 23.
[6] Again, in the song of Deborah, the mother of Sisera says, "Have they
not divided the prey?... to Sisera a prey of divers colours of
needlework, of divers colours of needlework on both sides."--Judges
v. 30.
[7] Cantor Lectures on the Art of Lace-making. A. S. Cole (London,
1881).
[8] At Athens the maidens who took part in the procession of the
Panathenaea embroidered the veil or _peplos_ upon which the deeds of
the goddess were embroidered. The sacred _peplos_ borne on the mast
of a ship rolled on wheels in the Panathenaic festival "was destined
for the sacred wooden idol, Athene Polias, which stood on the
Erechtheus. This _peplos_ was a woven mantle renewed every five
years. On the ground, which is described as dark violet, and also as
saffron-coloured, was inwoven the battle of the gods and the
giants." (See page 47, _British Museum Catalogue to the Sculptures
of the Parthenon_.)
[9] Pliny, _Hist. Nat._, viii. 74. "Colores diversos picturae intexere
Babylon maxime celebravit et nomen imposuit."
[10] Maspero, _The Dawn of Civilisation in Egypt and Chaldaea_ (ed. Prof.
Sayce).
[11] Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_ (trans. A. S. Cole).
[12] Lucan, _Pharsalia_, Book X.
[13] The Romans denominated such embroideries _phrygionae_, and the
embroiderer _phrygio_. Golden embroideries were specified as
_auriphrygium_. This word is the root of the French _orfroi_
(orfreys).
[14] Mrs. Palliser quotes an extract from the author of _Letters from
Italy_, who, speaking of the cabinet at Portici, mentions an elegant
marble statue of Diana "dressed after the purple gowns worn by the
Roman ladies; the garment is edged with a lace exactly resembling
point; it is an inch and a half broad, and has been painted purple."
By an Englishwoman (Mrs. Millar) in the years 1770 and 1771 (London,
1777).
[15] Strutt.
[16] Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_.
[17] Mrs. Bury Palliser, "Embroidery," _Encyclopædia Britannica_.
[18] St. Giselle, Berthe's sister, founded many convents in Aquitaine and
Provence, and taught the nuns all manner of needlework (Lefébure,
_Embroidery and Lace_).
[19] _Chronique Rimée_, by Philippe Mouskés.
[20] Lefébure, _Embroidery and Lace_.
[21] Mrs. Palliser, "Embroidery," _Encyclopædia Britannica_.
[22] It has been suggested that the embroidery was done by William's
granddaughter, the Empress Matilda, widow in 1125 of Henry V.,
Emperor of Germany, and wife, by her second marriage, of Geoffrey,
Count of Anjou (Lefébure).
[23] Mr. Fowke states that the tradition which would make the tapestry
the handiwork of Queen Matilda cannot be traced further back than
1803, when the tapestry was sent to Paris for exhibition.
[24] Matt. Par., _Hist. Angl._, p. 473, Edit. Paris, 1644.
[25] Mrs. Palliser, "Embroidery," _Encyclopædia Britannica_.
[26] At Verona an artist took twenty-six years to execute in needlework
the life of St. John, after the designs of Pollajuolo.
[27] "Gaston, Duke of Orleans, established hot-houses and botanical
gardens, which he filled with rare exotics to supply the needle with
new forms and richer tints" (Lefébure).
[28] We read, for instance, that Gabrielle de Bourbon, wife of Louis de
la Trémouille, "jamais n'estoit oyseuse, mais s'employoit une partie
de la journée en broderies et autres menus ouvrages appartenant à
telles dames, et y occupoit ses demoyselles dont avoit bonne
quantité, et de grosses, riches, et illustres maisons."--_Panegyric
de Loys de la Trèmoille par Jean Bouchet._
Again Vecellio dedicates his "Corona" to Signora Nanni, not only on
account of the pleasure she takes in works of the needle, but for
"il diletto che prende in farne essercitar le donne de casa sua,
ricetto delle più virtuose giovani che hoggidi vivono in questa
città."
"It is usual here," writes a lady from Madrid in 1679, "for good
families to put their daughters to ladies, by whom they are employed
to embroider in gold and silver, or various colours, or in silk,
about the shift, neck, and hands."
"I jor fist es chambre son pere,
Une estole et i amict pere,
De soie et d'or molt soutilment,
Si i fait ententivement
Mainte croisette et mainte estoile,
Et dist ceste chancon à toile."
--_Roman de la Violette._
"One day, seated in her father's room, she was skilfully working a
stole and amict in silk and gold, and she was making in it, with
great care, many a little cross and many a little star, singing all
the while this _chanson à toile_."
[30] In one of Edward I. we find a charge of eight shillings for silk
bought for the embroidery work of Margaret, the King's daughter, and
another for four ounces of silk, two hundred ounces of gold thread,
a spindle, etc.--_Liber de Garderoba, 23 Edw. I._, Public Record
Office.
In one of Edward III. the sum of £2 7s. 2d. is expended in the
purchase of gold thread, silk, etc., for his second daughter
Joanna.--_Liber Garderobae, 12-16 Edw. III._, Public Record Office.
Elizabeth of York worked much at her needle. In the account of her
household, preserved in the Public Record Office, every page of
which is signed by Queen Elizabeth herself, we find--
"To Evan Petreson joiner, for the stuff and making of 4 working
stools for the Queen; price of the stool 16 pence--5s. 4d.
"To Thomas Fissch, for an elne of linen cloth for a samplar for the
queen, 8d."
In the Inventory 4 Edward VI., 1552 (Harl. MSS. No. 1419), are
entries of--
"Item, XII. samplars" (p. 419).
"Item, one samplar of Normandie canvas, wrought with green and black
silk" (p. 524).
"A book of parchment containing diverses patternes" (p. 474),
probably purchases for his sisters.
[31] See, for instance, the interesting account of the Countess of
Oxford, given by Miss Strickland in her _Life of Queen Elizabeth of
York_.
[32] These are alluded to in the dialogue between Industria and Ignavia,
as given in Sibmacher's "Modelbuch," 1601 (French translation): "La
vieille dame raconte l'histoire des concours de travail à l'aiguille
chez les anciens Espagnols; comme Isabelle, femme de Ferdinand, a
hautement estimé les travaux de l'aiguille."
The "Spanish stitch," so often mentioned, was brought in by
Katharine, on her marriage with Prince Arthur, in 1501. We have
constantly in her wardrobe accounts sheets and pillow-beres,
"wrought with Spanish work of black silk at the edge."
In the Inventory of Lord Monteagle, 1523 (Public Record Office,) are
"eight partlets, three garnished with gold, the rest with Spanish
work."
In 1556, among the New Year's gifts presented to Queen Mary Tudor,
most of the smocks are "wrought with black silk, Spanish fashion."
In the Great Wardrobe Accounts of Queen Elizabeth, 3 & 4, Public
Record Office, we have "sixteen yards of Spanish work for ruffs."
"Twelve tooth cloths, with the Spanish stitch, edged with gold and
silver bone lace."--_Ibid._ Eliz. 5 & 6.
The Spanish stitch appears in France with Henry II., 1557. "Pour la
façon d'ung gaban avec ung grant collet chamarrez à l'Espaignolle de
passement blanc," etc.--_Comptes de l'Argentier du Roy._ Archives
Nat. K. K. 106.
[33] Taylor, the Water Poet, _Katharine of Aragon_.
[34] The industry of Henry's last queen was as great as that of his
first. Specimens still exist at Sizergh Castle, Westmoreland, of
Katharine Parr's needlework--a counterpane and a toilet cover. An
astrologer, who cast her nativity, foretold she would be a queen; so
when a child, on her mother requiring her to work, she would
exclaim, "My hands are ordained to touch crowns and sceptres, not
needles and spindles."
[35] _Dames Illustres._
[36] The "Reine des Marguerites," the learned sister of Francis I., was
not less accomplished with her needle, and entries for working
materials appear in her accounts up to the year of her death, 1549.
"Trois marcs d'or et d'argent fournis par Jehan Danes, pour servir
aux ouvraiges de la dicte dame."--_Livre de dépenses de Marguerite
d'Angoulême_, par le Comte de la Ferrière-Percy. Paris, 1862.
"Elle addonoit son courage
A faire maint bel ouvrage
Dessus la toile, et encor
A joindre la soye et l'or.
Vous d'un pareil exercise
Mariez par artifice
Dessus la toile en maint trait
L'or et la soie en pourtrait."
--_Ode à la Royne de Navarre_, liv. ii., od. vii.
[38] 1380. "Oeuvre de nonnain."--_Inventaire de Charles V._
[39] "My grandmother, who had other lace, called this" (some needlepoint)
"nun's work."--_Extract from a letter from the Isle of Man_, 1862.
"A butcher's wife showed Miss O---- a piece of Alençon point, which
she called 'nun's work.'"--_Extract from a letter from Scotland_,
1863.
1698, May. In the _London Gazette_, in the advertisement of a sale
by auction, among other "rich goods," we find "nun's work," but the
term here probably applies to netting, for in the _Protestant Post
Boy_ of March 15th, 1692, is advertised as lost "A nun's work purse
wrought with gold thread."
1763. In the _Edinburgh Advertiser_ appears, "Imported from the
Grand Canaries, into Scotland, nun's work."
[40] As, for instance, "the imbrothering" of the monks of the monastery
of Wolstrope, in Lincolnshire.
[41] _Livre de Lingerie._ Dom. de Sera, 1581. "Donne, donzelle, con gli
huomini."--Taglienti, 1530. Patterns which "les Seigneurs, Dames,
et Damoiselles ont eu pour agréables."--Vinciolo, 1587.
[42] Jehan Mayol, carme de Lyon; Fra Hieronimo, dell' Ordine dei Servi;
Père Dominique, religieux carme, and others.
[43] One in the Bibliothèque Impériale is from the "Monasterio St.
Germani à Pratis."
[44] He died in 1595. _Lives of the Earl and Countess of Arundel_, from
the original MS. by the Duke of Norfolk. London, 1857.
[45] P. R. O. Calendar of State Papers. Domestic. Charles I. Vol. clxix.
12.
[46] P. R. O. Calendar of State Papers. Colonial. No. 789.
[47] See his epigram, "The Royal Knotter," about the queen,
"Who, when she rides in coach abroad
Is always knotting threads."
[48] Translated from the _Libellus de Admirandis beati Cuthberti
Miraculis_ of Reginald, monk of Durham, by Rev. J. Rain. Durham,
1855.
[49] _Chronicle of John Hardyng_, circ. 1470.
[50] Temp. Rich. II. In their garments "so much pouncing of chesell to
make holes, so much dragging (zigzagging) of sheers," etc.--_Good
Parson_, Chaucer.
[51] Percy, _Reliques of Ancient Poetry_, vol. iii.
[52] _Anatomie of Abuses_, by Philip Stubbes, 1583.
[53] _The Shyp of Folys of the Worlde_, translated out of Latin by Alex.
Barclay, 1508.
[54] The inventories of all nations abound in mention of these costly
articles. The "smocks" of Katharine of Aragon "for to lay in," were
wrought about the collar with gold and silk. Lord Monteagle, 1523,
had "two fine smocks of cambric wrought with gold." (Inv. P. R. O.)
Among the New Year's Gifts offered to Queen Mary Tudor by the
Duchess of Somerset (1556), we find a smock wrought over with silk,
and collar and ruffles of damask, gold purl, and silver. Again, in
the household expenses of Marguerite de France, 1545, we find a
charge of "4 livres 12 sols, pour une garniture de chemise ouvré de
soye cramoisie pour madicte dame."--(Bib. Imp. MSS. Fonds François,
10,394.) About the same date (G. W. A. Eliz. 1 & 2, 1558-59) appear
charges for lengthening one smocke of drawne work, 20s. Six white
smockes edged with white needlework lace, 10s. To overcasting and
edging 4 smockes of drawn work with ruffs, wristbands, and collars,
three of them with black work, and three of them with red, etc. At
the funeral of Henry II. of France, 1559, the effigy was described
as attired in "une chemise de toile de Hollande, bordée au col et
aux manches d'ouvraige fort excellent."--Godefroy, _Le Cérémonial de
France_, 1610.
[55] See FRANCE.
[56] The pillow-bere has always been an object of luxury, a custom not
yet extinct in France, where the "taies d'oreiller, brodées aux
armes," and trimmed with a rich point, form an important feature in
a modern trousseau. In the inventory of Margaret of Austria, the
gentle governess of the Low Countries, are noted--
"Quatre toyes d'oraillers ouvrées d'or et de soye cramoysie et de
verde.
"Autres quatres toyes d'oraillers faites et ouvrées d'or et de soye
bleu à losanges qui ont estées données à Madame par dom Diego de
Cabrera."--_Corr. de l'Empereur Maximilien I. et de Marguerite
d'Autriche_, par M. Leglay. Paris, 1839.
Edward VI. has (Harl. MSS. 1419) "18 pillow-beres of hollande with
brode seams of silk of sundry coloured needlework." And again, "One
pillow-bere of fine hollande wrought with a brode seam of Venice
gold and silver, and silk nedlework."
And Lady Zouche presents Queen Elizabeth, as a New Year's gift, with
"One pair of pillow-beares of Holland work, wrought with black silk
drawne work."--Nichol's _Royal Progresses_.
[57] _Goderonné_--_goudronné_, incorrectly derived from pitch
(_goudron_), has no relation to stiffness or starch, but is used to
designate the fluted pattern so much in vogue in the sixteenth
century--the "gadrooned" edge of silversmiths.
1588. Il avait une fraise empesée et godronnée à gros godrons, au
bout de laquelle il y avoit de belle et grande dentelle, les
manchettes estoient goudronnées de mesme.
[58] They are introduced into the Title page of this work.
[59] See APPENDIX.
[60] "Quintain, quintin, French lawne." Randle Cotgrave. _Dictionarie of
the French and English tongues._ 1611.
"26 virges de Kanting pro sudariis pro ille 47/8."--_G. W. A.
Charles II._, 1683-4.
[61] Lacis, espèce d'ouvrage de fil ou de soie fait en forme de filet ou
de réseuil dont les brins étaient entre-lacez les uns dans les
autres.--_Dict. d'Ant. Furetière_, 1684.
[62] Béle Prerie contenant differentes sortes de lettres, etc., pour
appliquer sur le réseuil ou lassis. Paris, 1601. See APPENDIX.
[63] So, in the Epistle to the Reader, in a Pattern-book for Cut-works
(London, J. Wolfe & Edward White, 1591), the author writes of his
designs:--
"All which devises are soe framed in due proportion as taking them
in order the one is formed or made by the other, and soe proceedeth
forward; whereby with more ease they may be sewed and wrought in
cloth, and keeping true accompt of the threads, maintaine the bewtey
of the worke. And more, who desyreth to bring the work into a lesser
forme, let them make the squares lesse. And if greater, then inlarge
them, and so may you worke in divers sortes, either by stitch,
pouncing or pouldering upon the same as you please. Alsoe it is to
be understood that these squares serve not only for cut-workes, but
alsoe for all other manner of seweing or stitching."--(See APPENDIX,
No. 72).
[64] _Pratique de l'aiguille industrieuse du très excellent Milour
Matthias Mignerak_, etc. Paris, 1605. See APPENDIX.
[65] The inventories of Charles de Bourbon, ob. 1613, with that of his
wife, the Countess of Soissons, made after her death, 1644 (Bib.
Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,426), alone prove how much this _réseuil_ was in
vogue for furniture during the seventeenth century.
"Item un pavilion de thoille de lin à bende de reseuil blang et noir
faict par carel prisé, vi. l. t. (livres tournois).
"Item quatre pentes de ciel de cotton blanc à carreaux.
"Item trois pentes de ciel de thoille de lin à carreaux et raiseuil
recouvert avec le dossier pareil estoffe, et petit carreau à point
couppé garny de leur frange, le fonds du ciel de thoille de lin,
trois custodes et une bonne grace et un drap pareille thoille de lin
à bandes de reseuil recouvert ... prisé xviii. l. t."--_Inv. de
Charles de Bourbon._
"Item une autre tapisserie de rezeuil de thoile blanche en huit
pièces contenant ensemble vingt aulnes on environ sur deux aulnes
trois quarts de haute.
"Item une autre tenture de tapisserie de rézeau tout de leine (lin)
appliquée sur de la toille blanche en sept pièces contenant dix-huit
aulnes de cours sur trois aulnes de haute.
"Item trois pantes, fonds de dossier, les deux fourreaux de piliers,
la converture de parade, le tout en point couppé et toillé.
"Item, une garniture de lict blanc, faict par carré d'ouvrage de
poinct couppé, le tout garny avec la couverte de parade, prisé la
somme de soixante livres tournois."--_Inv. de la Comtesse de
Soissons._
[66] Dated 20 Feb., 1587. Now in the Record Office, Edinburgh.
[67] 1781. "Dix-huit Pales de differentes grandeurs, tous de toile garnis
tant de petite dentelle que de filet brodé."--_Inv. de l'Eglise de
S. Gervais._ Arch. Nat. L.L. 654.
[68] _Point and Pillow Lace_, by A. M. S. (London, 1899).
[69] In the Record Office, Edinburgh.
[70] "Mache, the Masches (meshes) or holes of a net between the thread
and thread" (Cotgrave).
[71] _Comptes de la Reine de Navarre_, 1577. Arch. Nat. K.K. 162.
[72] _Inventory of Catherine de Médicis_, Bonaffé.
[73] Randle Holme, in _The School Mistris Terms of Art for all her Ways
of Sewing_, has "A Samcloth, vulgarly, a Samplar."