invention of, claimed by Italy, 45
misuse of term, 32
varieties of, 33-35
------ à l'aiguille, 121;
gazée, 123. _See also_ Needle point
------ d'Alençon
Argentella, 193 and n555
Bayeux manufacture of, 228
Burano manufacture of, 62
compared, with point d'Argentan, 203, 204 and n571;
with Brussels, 194, 199;
with Colbertine, 339;
with point Gaze, 123;
with Sedan lace, 254
dress of, purchased by Emperor Napoleon, 198
earliest use of name, 195 and n557, n558, n560
grounds in, 193
imperial layette of, 198
industry
Argentan, connection with, 204
centres of, 200
decline of, causes for, 192
early account of, 188-189
Edict of Nantes, effect of revocation of, 258
establishment of, 155-157 and n455
export trade, 192
method of manufacture, 192-194
Napoleon's patronage of, 196
number of lace-workers (1698), 191;
(1786), 195;
(1788), 192 n552;
(1830), 196
origin of, 111 n323
quality of lace-work, 159 n464, 187, 194
revival of, 155 and n454, 196-197
value of (1786 and 1801), 195; (1830), 196
invention and establishment of, 155-157 and n455
lappet of, from Genoa, 78 and n244
"nun's work," 11 n39
patterns, 190-191;
dates of, 198-200;
Venice patterns copied, 191
season for, 178
shaded tints introduced in, 201 and n567
specimens of, exhibited, 200, 201
time required in making, 198, 201
Venetian réseau, relation to, 58-59
"vilain," 191 n551
------ d'Angleterre
Angleterre à bride, 408
Aurillac manufacture of, 247
Burano manufacture of, 62
butterfly and acorn pattern in, 408
France, fashionable in, 118 and n336
history of, 117 and n332, and n333
point de France rivalled by, 178
------ d'Argentan
"Argentella" possibly a name for, 78 n244
Armada pattern lace worked in, 397
Burano manufacture of, 62
characteristic of, 207
compared, with point d'Alençon, 203, 204 and n571;
with point gaze, 123;
with Venetian lace, 203, 204 n571
description of, 203
ground in, 203 and n570, 204 n571, 207-208
industry
Alençon, connection with, 204
embroidery, replaced by, 208 n580
Guyard's revival of, 204-205
number of lace workers (c. 1744), 205;
(1786), 195
rival houses, 205
value, annual (1786 and 1801), 195;
(1788), 207
reference to (1738), 195 and n559
season for, 178
------ d'Aurillac. 154, 246-249
------ de Bourgogne, 255
------ de Brabant, 138 n392
------ de Bruxelles. _See_ Point d'Angleterre
------ à carreaux, 32
------ à chaînette, 32
------ des champs (point de Paris), 35
------ Colbert, 188 n548, 228
------ coupé (couppé), 17-18, 49, 140 _et seq._
------ de Dieppe. _See_ Dieppe
------ double (point de Paris), 35
------ duchesse, 123
------ d'Espagne. (_See also_ Gold lace)
brides in, 58
definition of, 90
England, importation to, prohibited, 358;
Honiton imitation of, 410
Irish imitation of, 443 n1233
point d'Aurillac compared with, 248
Portuguese laces compared with, 98, 106
Queen Elizabeth's, 307
references to, 98-99 n283, n285, 100, 103 n306, 354
------ d'esprit, 32 and n94, 229
------ de Flandre (_See also_ Flemish lace), 111, 144-145
------ de France. (_See also_ Point d'Alençon)
description of, made at Alençon, 190
designs in, 158 n463
équipage, de bain of, 168
falbalas of, 167 and n492
industry
centres of, 157 n459, 159 n459, 210-211 and n584
Dumont, Mlle., foundress of, 105 n312
establishment and history of company, 157-158 and n459
Flanders, effect on, 111
method of working pattern in, 31 n91
ordinance of 1665, 157 and n459
rivals to, 177-178
popularity in France and England, 161-162
references to, 157 n459, 159 n464, 195 and n557, n558, n559, n560
------ de Galle, thread lace from, 88
------ Gaze, characteristics of, 123
------ de Gênes (Genoa)
collerette, 141
France, prohibited in, 148 n431, 154 and n451
history of, 72-73 and n230, 74
"Révolte des Passemens," mentioned in, 41,42
------ de Hongrie, 265
------ of Italy, first appearance in France, 144-145
------ de Marli. _See under_ Bayeux, lace industry.
------ de Milan, Irish imitation of, 443
------ de Moscow, 284
------ de neige (punto neve), 32 and n97, 51
------ de Paris, 32 and n93, 35, 210, 212
------ plat, 105 n313, 118, 121 and n347, 122 and n350;
appliqué, 123
------ de raccroc, 120, 184, 226
------ de Raguse, 41, 83 and n254, 84
------ à la Reine, 32
------ de Sedan. _See_ Sedan
------ tresse, 314
------ de Venise
Alençon imitations of, 191
characteristics, 123
England, importation to, prohibited, 358
France, prohibited in, 154 and n451
Guipure, 40
Irish imitation of, 442
Mary II., image of, shown wearing, 345
Mazarin's purchase of, 150, 151
Moscow imitations of, 284
origin of, 49-50
point à l'aiguille gazée so called, 123
point de Raguse so called, 83
resemblance of, to point d'Argentan, 203, 204 n591;
to Le Puy lace, 245;
to point de Sedan, 254
"Révolte des Passemens," mentioned in, 41
rose point (raised), 51 and n175, 62;
price of, 57;
Honiton reproduction of, 411, 416;
Irish reproduction of, 443 n1233, 444
Spanish conventual lace compared with, 93
theft of, 105 and n313
------ de Venise à réseau, 57, 58
Pointeuse, work of, 122
Points, lace known as, 2
Poitou, 256
Poking-sticks, 312
Poland
Alençon, trade with, 192 and n553
point de Sedan imported to, 254
Pole, Lady, effigy of, 403 n1145, 405
Polignac, Madame de, 180
Polychrome lace, 62-63
Pomfret, Countess of, 99 n285
Pommereu, M. de, quoted, 191 and n550
Pomp office, 319
Pompadour, Madame de, 184 n540
_Pompe di Minerva, Le_, cited, 53 n181, 85, 92 n269
Ponchel, du. _See_ Duponchel
Pont-l'Evêque lace, 183 n539
Ponthièvre, Duke de, 100 and n288
Ponto fiamengho, 111
Pontoppidan, quoted, 274 n736
Pontus de Gardia, 280
Pope, quoted, 367
----, the, apron worn by, for feet-washing ceremony, 70 and n217
Popplewell Brothers, quoted, 345
Porlin, quoted, 306 n854
Porter, Mrs. Grey, 440
Portland, Duchess of, 353
Portugal
American imports of lace from, 106
bone pins used in, 295
guipures exported to, 36
lace-making in, 105-107 and nn
Le Puy, lace imported from, 245
sumptuary laws in, 105
Postlethwait, quoted, 354; cited, 396
Pot lace, 130 and n369
Potter, Amy, 366 n1086
Poussin lace, 219
Poyntz, Adrian, 482
Prague, altar-cloth at, 9
Pridmore, Mr., 389
Princess Royal, bridal dress of, 409
Prior, quoted, 342
Prison-made lace, 81 and n248
Protection to English-made laces, etc., by English sovereigns
Charles I., 330
Charles II., 335
George III., 359, 363 and n1068
William III., 341
Puisieux lace, 212 n589
Puissieux, Madame de, 49 and n162, 73
Pultenarian collars, 253.
Punto in aria (Burano point), 46, 51 and n171, 58, 62
Punto di cartella (cordella), 50
------ a gropo, 52
------ a maglia quadra (lacis), 52
------ de mosquito e de transillas, 99
------ di Napoli, 71
------ neve (point de neige), 32 and n97, 51
------ pugliese, 71 n222
------ di Rapallo, 75 n237
------ reale, 50
------ a relievo (rose point--_See under_ Point de Venise)
------ a reticella, 50 and n168
------ ricamento a maglia quadra, 21
------ tagliato (cut-work), 51
------ tagliato a fogliami, 51 and n172, 62
------ tirato (drawn work), 53 and n181
------ a Vermicelli, 75 n237
Purle lace, 310 and n875, n876, n877
Purling, 409
Purls, lace known as, 2
Puritans, lace industry under, in England, 332-334;
in America, 372 n1099
Puteau, Madame, 433 and n1214
Queensberry, Duchess of, 356
Quentell, P., 459
Quicherat, 139
Quilles, 127, 168 n496
Quintain, 19 and n60, 20
Quinty, M., 268
------, P., 459
Rabat, 141 and n403
Rabbits' hair, lace of 245.
Radcliffe, Lady, 310 n875
Radford, Miss, lace school of, 416 and n1169
Raffy, Madame, 157 n458, 202
Ragusa, cut-works and laces of, 82-83
Rapallo,
number of lace-workers at (1862), 76
Vermicelli lace from, 74, 75 and nn
Ratcliff, Lady, 294 n791
Rättwik lace, 281
Ravenna, lace school near, 81 n248
Rawert, cited, 274 n732, 277 n741
Ray, cited, 67
Réaux, Tallemant des, quoted 49;
cited, 83
Rebecq-Rognon, flax grown at, 118
Récamier, Madame, 185
Regency point, 388
Regnard, quoted, 126 and n358, 167 n494
Regnier, quoted, 141
Reid, Miss, 440
Reiffenberg, Baron, cited, 109 and n318
Relevailles of Parisian ladies, 174
Religious subjects in lace, etc, 324
Renaissance, cut-work of, 17
René, Maître, 140 n395
Renfrew, lace industry at, 433
Réseau (réseuil, rézel, rézeuil)
Don Quixote, mentioned in, 98 n281
methods of making, 120-121
needle-made by hand, 406 n1151
nosacé, 78
specimens of rézeuil d'or, 23 n74
uses of, 21
Venetian, relation of, to Alençon, 58-59
Restoring of old lace, 411, 412
Reticella (Italian)
designs in, 68
Irish imitation of, 446
Retz, Cardinal de, 62
Revel, grave-clothes in church at, 366 n1083
"Révolte des Passemens, La," quoted, 40 and n134, 43, 104;
cited, 83, 188
Rheims lace, 253
Rhodes, silk guipure of, 87
Riano, J. F., quoted, 93
Riazan lace, 283
Riband roses, 329 and n959
Ricci, Sebastian, cut work shown in "Last Supper" of, 79 n248
Rich, B., quoted, 317 n908
Richard II., statutes of, 216 n597
-------- III., 48, 294 n794
Richelieu, Duke, 144, 149
----------, Maréchal de, 171
Ripon, lace-making at, 371 and n1095
Riviera (_See also_ Albissola, Rapallo, Santa Margherita), lace
manufacture of, 75, 79 and n245
_Rob Roy_ cited, 423
Roberts, Mrs., 445;
account of lace school supplied by, 388-390
Robinson Crusoe, Flanders lace bought by, 134 n379
Rodge, James, 401
Roger, Widow, 207
Rohan, Catherine de, 212
------ family, 182
Roland, cited, 36 n113
------ de la Platière, quoted, 154 n451, 223 n608;
cited, 245 n656
Romagna, lace-making in, 68
Romana, Lucretia, 498
------, Lugretia, 497
Romans, embroidery used by, 3 and n13, 4 n14
Rome, Greek lace made at, 85
----, King of, 196
Rondonneau, M., 152 n440
Rose point of Venice. _See under_ Point de Venise
Rosenborg Palace Museum, 273
Rosina Helena, Princess, 501
Ross, Mr., 482
Rossi, Giovanni, 483
Roumanian embroidery, 71 n222
Rousseau, Jean Jacques, 270
Rowlands, quoted, 289 n773
Rudd, Margaret Caroline, 352
Rue, Abbé, cited, 6
Ruel, Sieur, 155
Ruelle, Veuve, 468
Ruff
cut-work, of, 312-313
England, introduction into, 310
falling band the successor to, 326
France, in, 139-141 and n399
James I., under, 315-318
Medicean, 322
Nuremberg, 267
sermons against the, 316
starching and fluting of, 311-312
Ruffles
fashion of, in George I.'s time, 351
ladies wearers of, 365 and n1077
long, in George III.'s time, 363 and n1070
making of, 194
origin of weeping, 171
Valenciennes industry affected by disappearance of, 231
Run lace, 441
Russell, Lady Rachel, 348
Russia
embroidery of, 71 n222
lace imported to, from Alençon, 192, 199;
from Saxony, 263
lace industry in, 283-284
Ruvigne, M., 331
Rymer, cited, 291 n785
Sabbio, Fratelli de, 461
Sabenqua, 97
Sabière, M. de, 172 n505
Saffron Walden fair, 43 n137
Sainte-Aignau, M. de, 216
Saint-Albin, Mgr. C. de, 173 and n508
St. Aligre, 247-248 and n663
Saint-Brice lace, 213 n589
St. Bridget, lace introduced into Sweden by, 278 and n743
St. Cuthbert
cope and maniple of, 7
grave-clothes of, 14-15, 366
St. Denis lace, 210
St. Dunstan, embroideries designed by, 5
St. Eustadiole, 5
Saint François Régis, 243
St. Gervais, 207 n577
St. Giselle, 5 n18
St. Lawrence, Lady, 310 n876
St. Lo, cut-work toile d'honneur used at, 25
St. Louis, hospital at Argentan, 207
St. Margaret's, Westminster, lady ancress of, 293
St. Martin's lace, 331 n965
St. Mary at Hill, 293, 302 n828
Saint Maximien, lace of, 212
St. Nicholas, flax grown at, 118 n338
Saint-Pierre-les-Champs, lace of, 213 n589
St. Simon, quoted, 73, 166
St. Trond, lace industry of, 137 and n390, n391
Salcombe, male lace-maker at, 413
Saltonstall, Mistress Susan, 483
Salviati, Joseph, 476
Samcloths, 23 and n73
Samplars, 9 n30, 23 and n73
Sandford, cited, 285 n754
Sandwich, Lady, 166
Sta. Lucie, Pierre de, 464, 465
Santa Margherita
number of lace-workers at (1862), 76
Vermicelli lace from, 74, 75 and nn
Saracens, Italian lace-making attributed to, 45
Sarcelles lace, 213 n589
Sardinia
deaf and dumb lace-workers in, 81 n248
Le Puy, annual value of lace brought from, 245 n657
Saule, Marchesa Barbaretta, 78 n244
Savary, quoted, 36 and n111, 54, 64, 126, 133, 255, 257 n687, 404;
cited, 74, 118 n338, 125, 129, 135, 192, 210, 244, 246 n661, 247, 253
n677, 254 n681, n683, 262, 377
Savinière, quoted, 153 and n443
Savoie, Don Philippe, 143
Savona, 77 n240, 79 n246
Savonarola, quoted, 67
Saxony lace industry
Barbara Uttman's work, 260-262
cheap lace of, 246
degeneration of, 263
Dresden lace, 262-263
modern, 263
numbers employed (sixteenth century), 261
patterns imitated in Denmark, 275
revenue from (sixteenth century), 261
treillis d'Allemagne, mention, of, in French inventories, 262 and n701
Scandinavian Museum, Copenhagen, 275
Scandinavians, lace work of, 4
Scarpariola, Cencia, 59, 61
Scarron, quoted, 177
--------, Veuve, 163
Schartzemberger, Johan, 462
Schleswig lace industry, quality of lace, 275;
number of fabrics (1840), 277
----------, North, lace of, 272, 273;
districts of lace industry, 276 n738
"Schole House for the Needle, A," 499
Schomberg, Col., quoted, 326 and n946
Schools, Lace
Devonshire, 414, 415 and n1167, 416
Italian, 81 n248
Spratton, 388, 390
Schoulthem, Mr. Hey, quoted, 133-134 and n380
Schwartzenburg, John, 267
Scotch servant on old lace, 368 n1090
Scotland
lace manufacture of, 422, 425 n1199, 428-434
sumptuary laws in, 422 and n1195, 424
Scott, Sir Walter, quoted, 418 n1175, 427 and n1202
_Scottish Advertiser_ (1769), quoted, 35
Sculptured lace
coloured marbles, in, 71
Harefield church, in, 321 n927
Seaming lace, 107, 325 n941, 332
Sedan lace, 183 n539, 253, 254
Sedgewicke, Elizabeth, 310
Sedley, Sir Charles, 13 and n47
Séez black laces, 196 and n562
Séguin, quoted, 113 n325, 139 n393; cited, 254
Select Society of Edinburgh, The, 429, 430 and nn
_Sempere Historia del Lujo_, quoted, 102
Senior, Hannah, 12
Sera, Dominique de, cited, 92;
Pattern Book of, 476
Sevenges, Madame de, 290
Sévigné, Madame de
bequest to, 183 n540
quoted, 154 n448, 162 n477, 366 n1084
Seville lace, 101
Sewell, quoted, 294 n794
Seymour, Lady Jane, 294
Sforza family, documents of, cited, 46, 50 n168, 63, 74 n235
Shadwell, quoted, 343, 345
Shakespeare, laces mentioned by, 295, 303 and n831;
quoted, 309 n871
_Shakespeare Memorial, A_, quoted, 325 n941
Shandowes, Lady. _See_ Chandos
Shawe, quoted, 404
Sherborne, lace industry of, 396, 397
Sheridan, quoted, 346
Shirts
adornments of, 15-16
Irish, 307, 435
Queen Elizabeth's present of, to her brother, 10
Spanish omission of, 97 n279
Shoes, lace rosette-trimmed, 329
Shrewsbury, Countess of, 11
Siam, King of (1614), 12
Sibmacher, 266, 490
Sicily, lace manufacture of, 80-81
Sicotière, Leon de la, 208 n579
Sidbury, lace school at, 414;
lace lessons at, 416 n1170
Sidford, lace lessons at, 4l6 n34
Sidmouth, lace school at, 416 and n1169
Sidney, Sir Philip, 304
Sidonian embroidery, 3
Siena lace, 68
Silk guipure. _See_ Guipure
---- lace
Almagro, at, 102 n297
Chinese, 89
Cretan, 86
Ragusa, at (gimp), 84
Watling, 422
Silver lace (_See also_ Aurillac lace)
England, importation to, prohibited by, Queen Anne, 349;
George II., 335 n993;
confiscation and burning of foreign, 359
Hamburg, 264
Holland, introduction into, 259
India, exported to, 322 n928, 329 and n958
Ireland, exportation to, prohibited, 439
Large purchase of, by Lady Arabella Stuart, 325
Lyons, at, 256
Ragusa, at, 84
Scotland, wearing prohibited in, 422
Spanish, 100-102, 154, 211, 212
Zurich, 271
------ net-work, collar of, 82
------ purles, prohibition of English made, 330 330
------ thread, duties on, leased to Dame Villiers, 328
Silvestre, cited, 463 n1274, 464
Simiane, Madame de
English point belonging to, 118 and n335
inventory of, quoted, 153 n444, 218 and n599
Sinclair, Sir John, quoted, 133-134 and n380, 428
--------, Miss Katherine, 419 n1176
_Sir Courtly Nice_, cited, 353 and n1052
Skelton, quoted, 251 n669
Skippin, quoted, 49 n165, cited, 72
Slammerkins, 356 and n1059
Slavonian peasants' work, 268
Sleeves, 341, 365
Sloper, Catherine, epitaph on, 13
Smith, Mother Mary Anne, 443
Smocks
adornments of, 15
labourers' cut-work insertion on, 25
Smuggling of lace, account of, 357-362;
of point de Bruxelles, 117;
in 1621, 331;
in Charles II's time, 336;
Isle of Man a centre for, 372;
to Scotland, 427
---------- of thread, 407
Smyrna, silk guipure of, 87
Smythe, Thomas, 425
Society of Anti-Gallicans. _See_ Anti-Gallican
-------- of Polite Arts, 262 n702
Sol, José, 484
Soldiers
lace made by, 225
rich laces of English, 345, 346
Sonderburg, vault of Schleswig-Holstein family at, 366 n1082
Sonnettes, 34 n104
Sophie de France, 168
------, Grand Duchess, 268
Soragana, Marchesa di, 486
Sorbière, Mons. de, 70
Souche, Lady, 309 n870
South Kensington Museum, Cretan laces in, 86
Southey, quoted, 303 n830
Spacing lace, 325 n941
Spain
America, lace exported to, 102
bone pins used in, 295
conventual lace work of, 93
earnings of lace-makers in, 102
embroidery of, 8 n28, 10 and n32
French fashions influenced by, 147
gold and silver lace, use and manufactures of, 100-102;
imported to, 212
grave clothes of grandees in, 366 and n1085
guipures imported to, 36
holidays in, 102 n302
lace imported to, from--
Albissola, 77
Chantilly, 214
Dieppe, 219
Ghent, 133
Isle de France, 209
Le Puy, 245 and n657
Lorraine, 251
Marseilles, 101
Paris, 36, 212
Maestranza, the, uniforms of, 100
mantilla, kinds of, 102-103 and n305;
mantillas exported to, 226
manufacture of lace in, centres of, before 1665, 44 n144
Moresse, dentelles de, 104
numbers of lace-makers in, 99, 101, 102 n294, n297, 104
point of. _See_ Point d'Espagne
shirts frequently unworn in (1686), 97 n279
sumptuary laws of, 90, 97, 101
two kinds of lace made in, 103 n305
Spangles, 335;
of bobbins, 391 n1127
Spanish-American colonies, Chantilly lace exported to, 214
-------- Indies,
Brabant lace exported to, 129
guipures exported to, 36
Le Puy lace, annual consumption of, 245 n657
Spelle werk, 32 n98
Spenser, quoted, 303 n830
Spider net, 448
------ -work, 20
Spiral design, 7
Spratton, lace school at, 388-390
Staël, Madame de, 180
Stafford, Bishop, monument of, 405 and n1150
Stair, Lord, 99 n285
Starch, yellow, 307, 317 and n906, 435
Starching, introduction of, into England, 311;
tools used for fluting and, 311-312
Steadman, Anne, 440
Steenbeck, 274
Steinkirk lace, 167 and n491, 344 and n1021, 345, 364
Stephens, quoted, 302 n828
Stepney, Lady, 369
Sterne, cited, 172
Stisted, Mrs., cited, 474 and n1308, 487
Stock, lace cravat succeeded by, 345
Stockholm museums, lace in, 282
Stone, quoted, 140
Stoney Stratford, lace industry of, 375 n1105, 379 and n1117
Stothard, Mrs., quoted, 216 n594
Stowe, cited, 294 n793;
quoted, 310, 311 and n879, 312
Strafford, statuette of Earl of, 367
Strasburg, Archbishops of. _See_ Rohan family.
Stratford-upon-Avon, embroidered bed linen at, 325 n941
Strauben, George, 271, 487
Strickland, Miss, quoted, 420 n1184
Striqueuse, work of, 122
Strutt, Jedediah, 448 n1239
Strype, quoted, 38, 297 and n813
Stuart, Arabella, 325
------, Mary, _See_ Mary Stuart
Stubbes, quoted, 16, 313 and n892
Stuora, 53 and n179
Sturbridge fair, 43 and n140
Stures family, 282
Suffolk, Duchess, 292
--------, Earl of, 319 and n917, n918
--------, lace industry of, 394
Sully, 142, 210
Sumptuary laws
Denmark, 274 and n733, n735
England, 285, 286, 288, 289, 290 and n776, 291, 293, 306 and n855, 319
France, 64, 141 and n404, n405, 144, 147 and n429, 148 and n431, 152,
154 and n450, 158 and n460, 212, 243
Genoa, 73
Ireland (192 A.D.), 435, 436 and n1220
Portugal, 105
"Révolte des Passemens, La," 40-43
Scotland, 422 and n1195, 424
Spain, 90, 97, 101
Turkey, 87
Venice, 48, 57, 79 n245
Zurich, 270
Sweden
cut-work in, 25, 280
grave-clothes, lace adorned, 366
lace industry,
bobbin lace of, 280
established at Wadstena, 278
growth of, 279
peasant lace work for home use, 281-282
Spanish point and guipure in museums, 282
sheets, laced, 280
Swift, quoted, 124, 339, 349 n1037, 352, 436
Swinburne, Thos. (1572), 301 n822
---------- (1775), quoted, 101
---------- (1786), quoted, 176
Switzerland, lace industry in,
French refugees, settlement of, 269
mignonette made (1665), 35
Neufchâtel. _See that title_
origin of, 269
pattern books, 271
statistics of, 270 and n727
Zurich sumptuary laws, 270-271
Sylvius, Balthazar, 469
Syon Monastery cope, 7
Syracuse, Count of, quoted, 369
Tabin, B., 476
Taglienti, pattern-book of, 50 n168, 51 n171, 52 n176, n178, 53 n181, 71
n222, 82 n252, 460
Talavera de la Regna, lace made at, 101
Talbot, Gilbert, 304
Tallies, 78 and n154
Talma lace, 186
Talon, 158 n460
Tambour work,
Hamilton, 434 n1216
Irish, 440, 441 and n1230, 442 n1231
oriental, 440, 441
Tape lace, 116, 414 n1165
Tapestry, Greek lace a substitute for, 85-86
Tarnete (trina), 46
_Tatler_, quoted, 296 n806
Tatting, Manilla grass, 89 n265
Tax-books, Genoese, cited, 72 n224
Taylor, John, quoted, 323 and n933, 329;
cited 500
Temple, Earl, 380
Tessada, Signore, old lace of, 72 n225, 73 n232;
cited, 76 n238
Têtes de More (de mort, de moire), 36 and n113
Thelusson, Symphorien, 269
Theodoret, J., 469
Thierzac, lacis at, 248
Thomond, Earl of, 12
Thomsen, Prof., quoted, 272
Thomysi, Eleazaro, 481
Thread, importance of using fine (_see also under_ Lille), 393 and n1104,
446
------ lace
Cyprian, 82
hand spinners of, protest by, 335
importation of, prohibited by George III., 355 n1047
Thynne, quoted, 298 n816
Tickell, quoted, 169 n497
Tighe, Mr., cited, 440 n1228
Tiverton, first machine net factory at, 408
Toilé, 30 and n89
Toile d'arraignée, Paraguayan, 108
Toledo, Donna Teresa de, 103
Tombs. _See_ Grave-clothes
Tönder lace industry, 274, 275, 277 and n740, n742
Toquet, 340
Torchon
Milanese, 66
prison-made at Perugia, 81 n248
Saxony fabric, 263
Sicilian, 81
Spanish, 102 n297
Torello, 469
Torteroli, Sig. Don Tommaso, 79 n246
Tory, G., 476
Tottenham, Mrs. George, 446
Toul, "tulle" probably derived from, 250-251 and n669
Tournantes, 168 n496
Tournay, flax grown at, 118 n338
Tours, cope presented to Church of St. Martin at, 5
Towcester, lace industry at, 382
Travancore, pillow-laces of, 88
Treadwin, Mrs.
cited, 401 n1140, 407, 413
Honiton lace industry, efforts for, 410, 411, 416
Trevelyan, Miss Audrey, 417
Trezola, 474 n1311
Trina, 46 and n150, n152
Trolle Bonde, Count, 282
------ kant, 115-116
Trollopies, 356 and n1059
Trolly ground, 386
------ lace, 371 n1095, 412-414
Trotman, Acting Consul, cited, 89
Trousse, Mlle. de la, cited, 40 n134
Troyaux, Mons., 124
Tucker, Mrs. Marwood, 407 n1154
Tulle (town), manufactures of, 250
Tulle
embroidered, 229
German manufacture of, 250
lace discarded in favour of, 187
Marie Antoinette, at Court of, 180
origin of name, 250
predecessor of, 225
Turkey
oyah made in, 45, 87
silk gimp specimens from, 85
sumptuary laws in, 87
tambour work in, 441
Turn, 401 n1140
Turner, Mrs., yellow starch invented by, 307, 317 and n906, 435
Turnhout, Mechlin lace made at, 125;
number of fabrics (1803), 131
Turin, fashion at Court of, 153 n445
Tuscan lacis, 52-53, 68
Tussaud, Madame, 143 n412
Twopenny, Mr. W., 286 n761
Tynan lace industry, 442, 443
Tyrol (Austrian) lace industry, 268
Udine, lace school at, 81 n248
Unbleached thread, pattern worked in, 338
Underclothing lace-trimmed, in Scotland, 426
United States. _See_ America
Urbino, lace making in, 68
Urbino, Duchess, 471
Ursins, Madame des, 99, 172
Ustariz, quoted, 102
Uttman, Barbara, 260-262, 447
Val de Travers, rivalry with Mirecourt, 252, 270
Valcameos, 246
Valencia
gold and silver lace made at, 101
saints' images decked in lace at, 100